11-PD-25-013 JACKET FLYERS COLD WEATHER.pdf

INCH-POUND

11-PD-25-013

4 April 2025

SUPERSEDING

MIL-J-83388E

18 June 1992

MILITARY SPECIFICATION

JACKET, FLYER’S, COLD WEATHER

This specification is approved for use by the Air Force and available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

Prepared by

AFLCMC/ROU

1981 Monahan Way Wright-Patterson AFB, OH 45433-7017

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to:

AFLCMC/ROU, 1901 10th St., Bldg. 63, Wright-Patterson AFB, OH 45433-7605, or emailed to:

AFLCMC.WNUV.TAC.AF.UniformOffice@us.af.mil.

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A: Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

AMSC N/A

FSC 8415

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for Jacket, Flyer’s, Men’s, Cold Weather, CWU-45/P to be worn by United States Air Force (USAF) personnel.

1.2 Classification. The Flyer’s Jacket, Cold Weather shall be furnished in one (1) of the following classes, as specified (see 6.2):

Class 1 – Air Force Shade Sage Green 1705

Class 2 – Air Force Shade Tan 1657

1.3 Schedule of sizes. The jacket shall be furnished in the following sizes:

Schedule of sizes.

SMALL 34-36

MEDIUM 38-40

LARGE 42-44

X-LARGE 46-48

XX-LARGE 50-52

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-52085 Cloth, Drill, Cotton A-A-52094 Thread, Cotton A-A-55634 Zippers (Fasteners, Slide Interlocking) A-A-55126 Fastener Tapes, Hook and Loop, Synthetic A-A-55195 Thread, Para-Aramid, Spun, Intermediate Modules A-A-55217 Thread, Meta-Aramid, Spun Staple

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE (DoD) SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-C-3735 Cuffs, Knit, Wrist and Ankle, and Cloth, Knitted MIL-C-83242 Cord, Aromatic Polyamide, Nonmelting MIL-DTL-32075 Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use)

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil/.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

PURCHASE DESCRIPTIONS

11-PD-25-001 Cloth, Woven, Plain, Flame Resistant

(Copies should be obtained from the contracting activity or as directed by the contracting activity.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC TM20 Test Method for Fiber Analysis: Qualitative AATCC TM20A Test Method for Fiber Analysis: Quantitative AATCC TM132 Test Method for Colorfastness to Drycleaning AATCC TM135 Test Method for Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after

Home Laundering AATCC TM143 Test Method for Appearance of Apparel and Textile

Products after Laundering AATCC TM158 Test Method for Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning, Perchloroethylene AATCC EP1 Evaluation Procedure for Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC EP8 Evaluation Procedure for AATCC 9-Step Chromatic

Transference Scale AATCC EP9 Evaluation Procedure for Visual Assessment of Color

Difference of Textile

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY/AMERICAN NATIONAL STANDARDS INSTITUTE

(ASQ/ANSI)

ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies of this document are available online at https://www.asq.org or https://www.ansi.org.)

[This space intentionally left blank.]

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D1777 Standard Test Method for Thickness of Textile Materials

ASTM D3776/

D3776M

Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric

ASTM D5034 Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)

ASTM D6193 Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

ASTM D6413/

D6413M

Standard Test Method for Flame Resistance of Textiles (Vertical Test)

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.astm.org.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document, and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Inspection.

3.1.1 First article/pilot lot inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article/pilot lot inspection in accordance with the contract or solicitation (see 4.2). The sample size shall be specified in the procurement document.

3.1.2 Quality conformance inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to quality conformance inspection in accordance with 4.3.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or bio-based materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or bio-based materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design. The jacket shall have a straight center front opening with a slide fastener closure with quilted protective fly. The jacket shall have a utility and pencil pocket on the left sleeve and two (2) front (patch) pockets that have envelope storm flaps. The utility pocket shall have a slide fastener closure. Closure of the flaps of the front pockets shall be attached with hook and loop fastener tape. The jacket shall have an outer shell, quilted liner, knitted wristlets, and waistband (see Figures 1 through 8).

3.4 Figures. Figures 1 through 7 are furnished for information purposes only. Figure 1 shows front view of jacket. Figure 2 shows back view of jacket. Figure 3 shows lower patch pocket detail. Figure 4 shows bellow utility and pencil pocket detail. Figure 5 shows jacket, open view, quilted liner, center front protective fly detail. Figure 6 shows jacket, details. Figure 7 shows jacket bartack location detail. Figure 8 shows jacket quilted liner detail. When inconsistencies exist between the written document and the figures, the written document shall govern.

3.5 Material.

3.5.1 Basic material. The basic material for the outer shell, hanger, and slide fastener thong shall conform to Purchase Description 11-PD-25-001. The color shall be Air Force Shade Sage Green 1705 (Class 1) and Air Force Shade Tan 1657 (Class 2) (see 6.3).

3.5.2 Lining facing for quilted liner. The material for the lining facing shall be Defender M flame resistant woven fabric with plain weave. The nominal weight is 3.2 oz.sq.yd (osy). The material has 65 percent FR rayon, 25 percent aramid, and 10 percent nylon. The color for the Class 1 jacket shall be a good match to Air Force Shade Foliage Gray 1706. The color for the Class 2 jacket shall be a good match to Air Force Shade Brass 1707. The cloth shall meet requirements specified in Table I and tested in Table X.

TABLE I. Lining physical properties.

Characteristic Requirement Weight (osy) (3.0-3.4) Weave Plain Fiber content (nominal) 65% FR rayon, 25% aramid, 10% nylon Flame resistance (warp x filling) (max):

After flame (seconds) Initial 2.0 After 5 launderings 2.0

After glow (seconds) Initial 15.0 After 5 launderings 15.0

Char length (inches) Initial 5.0 After 5 launderings 5.0

Breaking strength (lbs.) (min.)

Warp 70 Filling 40

Dimensional stability (%) (±) (max) Warp 5.0 Filling 5.0

3.5.3 Batting. The material for the batting shall be an Aralite flame resistant needle punch nonwoven. The nominal weight is 3.8 osy. It has 50 percent meta-aramid and 50 percent para-aramid fiber. The batting shall meet requirements specified in Table II and tested in Table X. A certificate of compliance shall be submitted for this requirement (see 4.8).

TABLE II. Batting physical properties.

Characteristic Requirement

Weight (osy) (3.4-4.2) Construction Needle punch nonwoven Fiber content (nominal) 50% meta-aramid and 50% para-aramid Thickness (inch) (0.10 – 0.14) Flame resistance (length x width) (max) (initial)

After flame (seconds) 2.0 After glow (seconds) 15 Char length (inches) 5.0

3.5.4 Quilted liner. Lining facing is used on both sides of the batting stitched with oval shaped pattern with six (6) to eight (8) stitches per inch (see Figure 8), provided the back side stitch of the quilted liner shall face the outer shell material in the finished jacket. The flame resistant aramid thread for both top and back stitches shall be an appropriate size to optimize quality and durability in accordance with A-A-55217, Type I or A-A-55195, Type I. The thread color shall have a good match to the lining facing. The dimensional shrinkage after three (3) drycleanings shall be less than 5 percent per test listed in Table X.

3.6 Components.

3.6.1 Interlining. The material for the collar lining shall conform to A-A-52085, Type I, Class 2. The steam heat shrinkage shall be less than 2 percent when tested as specified in Table X.

3.6.2 Thread. Unless otherwise specified herein, the thread for all sewing operations shall conform to A-A-55195, Type I, Tex 39. In addition, the colorfastness to drycleaning shall be no less than 3.5 as tested in Table X. As an option, cotton thread may be used for attaching and topstitching the knitted cloth. The cotton thread shall conform to A-A-52094, Type I, Tex 30, 2- or 3-ply, and shall match the color of the basic material.

3.6.3 Slide fasteners (zippers). The slide fasteners shall conform to the requirements of A-A-55634 and of Table III of this specification. The chain and any other metal components except the latch and spring of the automatic slider of the slide fastener shall be brass with a black chemical finish. The slide fastener tapes shall be a high temperature resistant polyamide and shall be a good match to the color of the basic fabric. The slider on the slide fastener for the front opening shall have a long pull tab with a 1/2 inch wide thong fabricated from the basic fabric. The sliders on the slide fasteners for the utility and pencil pocket shall have short pull tabs. As an alternative, a pull tab without a hole may be used.

TABLE III. Slide fasteners.

Application Specification

Length (inches) Type Style Size(s)

Utility / Pencil Pocket I 4 5-7 4-3/4

Size Small Jacket Front Opening

III 8 8 21-1/2

Size Medium Jacket Front Opening

III 8 8 22

Size Large Jacket Front Opening

III 8 8 22-1/2

Size X-Large Jacket Front Opening

III 8 8 23

Size XX-Large Jacket Front Opening

III 8 8 23-1/2

3.6.4 Wristlets and waistband. The wristlets shall conform to MIL-C-3735, Type IV, Class 2, Size 2. The material for the waistband shall be the width specified in Table IV and shall conform to MIL-C-3735, Type IV, Class 3. The wristlets and the material for the waistband shall be a good match to the outer shell.

TABLE IV. Width of waistband material.

Jacket size Width in direction of courses of material (inches)

SMALL 24 (±1/2)

MEDIUM 25 (±1/2)

LARGE 26 (±1/2)

X-LARGE 27 (±1/2)

XX-LARGE 28 (±1/2)

3.6.5 Hook and loop fastener tape. Except for the fastener tape for the nameplate, the fastener tape shall be 1 inch wide. The fastener tape for the nameplate shall be 2 inches wide.

The fastener tape shall conform to A-A-55126, Type II, Class 1. The color of the fastener tape shall be a good match to the basic fabric.

3.6.6 Cord beading. The material for the cord beading in the edges of the slide fastener covers shall conform to MIL-C-83242, Type I.

3.7 Labels. The jacket shall have a combination label (size, identification, and care instruction).

3.7.1 Combination of size, identification, and care instruction label. The combination of the size, identification, and care instruction label for the jacket shall conform to MIL-DTL-32075, Type VI, Class 14.

The contents of the combination of size, identification, and care instruction label shall be as follows for the jacket:

SIZE

JACKET, FLYER’S, COLD WEATHER 45/P

(CONTRACTOR NAME)

SHELL: 63% META-ARAMID, 16% FR RAYON, 9% NYLON,

10% PARA-ARAMID, 2% CONDUCTIVE FIBER

LINING: 65% FR RAYON, 25% ARAMID, 10% NYLON

BATTING: 50% META-ARAMID, 50% PARA-ARAMID

CARE INSTRUCTIONS

This jacket is made of flame resistant material. No other special flame resistant treatment is required.

Dry clean only

Do not starch

Ironing or pressing is not necessary

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

MADE IN THE USA

3.8 Patterns. The Government will furnish standard patterns which show directional lines, size, pocket placement, and notches for the proper assembling unless otherwise specified (see 6.3). The standard patterns shall be used as a guide in cutting the manufacturer’s working patterns. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns except the additional notching to facilitate manufacture is permissible. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary to accommodate manufacturer’s processes and the use of automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the serviceability, dimensional requirements, or appearance. The patterns provide seam allowances as specified in Table V.

TABLE V. Seam allowances.

Seam allowance (inches) Pattern

1/4 Collar, collar stand where it attaches to collars, pocket flap, corners of utility pocket

3/8 Neckline, collar stand at neck seam, pen pocket, pocket cover, on all other sides of utility pocket other than zipper edge.

1/2 All armholes, sleeve seams, hem, shoulder seams, protective fly 3/4 Zipper edge on utility pocket 7/8 Center front

3.8.1 Pattern parts. The component parts of the jacket shall be cut from the materials as specified in accordance with pattern parts and quantity indicated in Table VI.

TABLE VI. List of pattern parts.

Material Pattern Nomenclature CAD Pattern Names Cut Parts Basic material (see 3.5.1)

Front FRONT 2 Back BACK 1

Topsleeve TSLV 2 Undersleeve USLV 2 Utility pocket SLEEVEPKT 1 Pocket flap PKT_FLAP 4

Waistband extension facing WB_EXT 2 Pencil pocket PEN_PKT 1 Patch pocket PKT 2

Topcollar TCOL 1 Undercollar UCOL 1

Protective fly PROT_FLY 1 Utility pocket cover PKT_CVR 1

Hanger HANGER 1 Pull tab PULL_TAB 1

Top collar stand TCOL_STD 1 Undercollar stand UCOL_STD 1

Quilted liner (see 3.5.4)

Front FRONT_LIN 2 Back BACK_LIN 1

Topsleeve TSLV_LIN 2 Undersleeve USLV_LIN 2 Pocket lining PKT_LIN 2 Protective fly PRO_FLYLIN 1

Interlining (see 3.6.1)

Collar CLR_INT 1 Collarstand CLR_STDINT 1

3.9 Construction. The jacket shall be constructed as specified in Table VIII; however, the manufacturer is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed, as long as the resultant jacket is exactly the same as the jacket made following the specified sequence. The stitches per inch specified in Table VIII shall be interpreted to be the minimum and the maximum stitches per inch.

3.9.1 Stitches and seams. Stitches and seams, as specified in Table VIII, shall be consistent, exhibit a uniform appearance, and shall conform to ASTM D6193. Where two (2) or more seams or stitch types are specified for the same part of an operation, any one of them may be used. When stitch Type 401 is used, the looper thread shall be on the inside of the jacket. Seam allowances shall be maintained with the seams sewn so no raw edges, run-offs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams shall occur. All seams shall start and finish evenly.

Thread tension shall be maintained so there shall be no tight or loose stitching. Edge stitching and topstitching shall be uniformly gauged throughout the jacket. The depth between the fold of seams required to be worked out shall be less than 1/16 inch. The guides and the knives on for the overedge machines shall be set to trim only the raveled edges of the fabric and shall not exceed 1/16 inch.

3.9.1.1 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/4 inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching.

Ends of continuous line stitching shall be overlapped no less than 1/2 inch except on labels where a minimum of three (3) stitch overlap is required. Thread tension shall be maintained so there shall be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lockstitch shall be imbedded to the materials sewn.

3.9.1.1.1 Repairs of Type 301 stitching. Repairs shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks, skipped stitches, run-offs, or bobbin run-outs occur during stitching, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2 inch back of the end of the stitching.

b. Thread breaks or two (2) or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item (in-process or end item) shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of 1/2 inch in back of the defective area and continue over the defective area a minimum of 1/2 inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials and restitching in the required manner. 1/

1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched. The loose ends shall be trimmed by scissors.

CAUTION: Pulling or breaking the loose ends is not permitted.

3.9.1.2 Types 401, 515, 516, 517, and 518 stitching. Thread tension shall be maintained so there shall be no loose stitching. Where Type 401 stitch is used, the looper (underthread) shall be on the inside of the finished garment. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.9.1.1.1 a.

and b., except substitute 3/4 inch for 1/2 inch wherever 1/2 inch appears. Repairs to stitch Type 401 may be accomplished by use of stitch Type 301.

3.9.1.3 Thread ends. All thread ends shall be trimmed to 1/4 inch maximum length.

CAUTION: Pulling or breaking the thread ends is not permitted.

3.9.2 Bartacks. All bartacks shall measure as specified in Table VII. Stitches per bartack shall be counted as visible needle punches, i.e., zigzags, where straight stitches running underneath, the zigzags do not count. Bartacking shall be free from thread breaks and loose stitching. Bartacks shall be required at the specified reinforcement points as shown in Table VII and Figure 7.

TABLE VII. Placement of bartacks.

Bartack location Size of bartack (inch)

Stitches per bartack

No. of bartacks per location

Total no.

of bartacks Ends of zipper opening on utility pocket 1/2 28 2 2

Ends of pencil pocket opening on utility pocket 1/2 28 6 6

Ends of hanger loop 1/2 28 2 2

Top, middle, and bottom of pull tab 1/2 28 3 3

Base of zipper superimposed on stitching 1/2 28 2 2

3.9.3 Automatic stitching. Automatic machines may be used to perform any of the stitch patterns, provided the requirements for the stitch pattern, stitches per inch, and size and type of thread are met. At least three (3) overlapping or backstitches shall be used to secure the ends of the stitching.

3.9.4 Corded beading in slide fastener covers. The edges of the slide fastener covers shall have a cord beading. The outer beaded cloth edges of the slide fastener closures shall be flush with the slide fastener scoops. The scoops, when locked together, shall be completely concealed by the beaded covers.

3.9.5 Cutting. Unless otherwise specified herein, the parts of the jacket shall be cut in accordance with the patterns specified in 3.8 and from the materials and in the quantity specified in Table VI.

3.9.6 Appearance of seams. The appearance rating of the seams and stitching of the finished jacket shall be 4.0 or greater. Puckered seams shall be examined in accordance with AATCC TM143 when evaluated against AATCC Photographic Seam Smoothness Replicas.

Puckering on a major portion of a seam worse than a rating of 4.0 shall be scored as a puckered seam.

3.10 Manufacturing operation requirements. The jacket shall be manufactured in accordance with the manufacturing operation requirements specified in Table VIII. Automated apparel equipment may be used to perform any of the operations specified in Table VIII, providing the seam and stitch type are as specified and the finished component conforms to the required configuration. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automated equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in the specification.

3.10.1 Shade and size marking. The component parts of the jacket shall be marked, ticketed, or bundled to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout each jacket. Any method may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.

b. Sew-on type tickets.

c. Adhesive type tickets which leave an impression or traces of paper adhesive on the material upon removal of the tickets.

d. Any marking medium that would tend to leave a permanent mark.

The use of an ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp, or pencil shall be acceptable, provided the numbers do not show through the outside of the jacket and the numbers are covered by the seam allowance.

3.10.2 Abbreviations in table of operations. The abbreviations used in Table VIII are as follows:

brtck - Bartack

TABLE VIII. Table of operations.

No. Description of operation Stitch type Seam and stitching type

Stitches per inch

1. Cut parts.

a. Lay the cloth in uniform lengths, taking care to spread the material so the plies shall not be stretched or full, and so one (1) side of the lay shall be even. Lay the patterns in accordance with the directional lines (warp direction) indicated on the patterns.

b. Cut the parts of the jacket in strict accordance with the patterns.

Unless otherwise specified herein, cut all parts of the basic material from one (1) piece of material. The hanger and undercollar may be cut from ends of the basic fabric, provided the parts are a good match to the shade of the parts cut from the basic material.

c. Except for the sleeve linings, all parts of the quilted liner shall be cut from one (1) piece of material. The sleeve linings shall be cut from ends but shall match each other. The quilted liner shall be cut so the exposed side of the quilted liner shall be a good match.

2. Mark parts.

Mark, ticket, or bundle all parts of the basic material and the quilted liner, except parts cut from ends, to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the jacket. The marking may be any method except adhesive-type tickets that leave traces of paper or adhesive on the material after the tickets are removed, or metal fastening devices.

3. Replace damaged or defective parts.

Take care during the spreading, cutting, and manufacturing operations to exclude or replace any material containing material defects (see Table XII) or workmanship damages that could affect the appearance of the jacket.

4. Make two (2) front pockets.

a. Position the quilted pocket lining to the face side of the pocket outer shell, between the notches at the top, with the raw edges even. Join with a single row of stitching 1/4 inch from the top raw edge.

301 SSa-1 10-12

b. Join one (1) piece of the hook fastener tape, 1 inch by 2 inches, to the outer side of each pocket at the marked location, with a single row of stitching 1/16 inch from the edge on all four (4) sides.

301 LSbj-1 10-12

TABLE VIII. Table of operations – Continued.

Seam and stitching type

Stitches per inch

4. Make two (2) front pockets – Continued.

c. Turn the lining to the inside of the pocket along fold line and join with a single row of stitching 1/16 inch from the folded edge and raise stitch with a single row of stitching 1/16 inch from the pocket top folded edge.

301 SSl-1 and Osf-1

10-12

d. Join one (1) piece of loop fastener tape, 1 inch by 2 inches, to the inside of each flap at the marked location with a single row of stitching 1/16 inch from the edge on all four (4) sides.

301 LSbj-1 10-12

e. Join each flap at the ends, the bottom, and the slanted sides with a single row of stitching 1/4 inch from the edge, with the face sides together.

301 SSe-3(a) 10-12

f. Turn and raise stitch with a double row of stitching 1/16 inch from the folded edge 1/4 inch gauge.

301 SSe-3(b) 10-12

g. Join each pocket flap to the front at the marked location, with the bottom of pocket flaps facing downward, stitching along “turn under” line marked on pocket flap pattern, with a single row of stitching.

301 LSbl-2(a) 10-12

h. Fold each pocket flap upward and stitch along the stitch line marked on pattern with a single row of stitching.

301 LSbl-1(b) 10-12

i. Turn the pocket raw edges under 1/2 inch at the sides and the bottom, catching the pocket lining. Join with a double row of stitching 1/16 inch from the folded edges 1/4 inch gauge, inching the stitching up to the pocket flaps.

301 LSd-2 10-12

j. Fold the top slanted raw edge of each pocket to the inside 1/2 inch and join to the pocket flap across the ends with a double row of stitching 1/16 inch from the folded edge, 1/4 inch gauge.

301 SSa-2 10-12

k. Fold each pocket flap down and raise with a single row of stitching 1/8 inch from the folded edge.

301 LSq-2(b) 10-12

5. Join fastener tape for nameplate.

a. Position a 2 inches by 4 inches piece of loop fastener tape for the nameplate above the left front pocket at the pattern marks; join on all four (4) sides with a single row of stitching 1/16 inch from the edge.

301 LSbj-1 10-12

b. Affix a 2 inches by 4 inches piece of hook fastener tape to the loop fastener tape for use as a mounting for the wearer’s nameplate.

6. Make and attach utility and pencil pockets.

The utility and pencil pockets shall have a bellow-style utility compartment with a covered vertical slide fastener closure on the forward side, the full length of the pocket and four (4) pencil component openings – two (2) upper and two (2) lower.

a. Hem the top opening of the pencil compartment, in accordance with the notches, with a double row of stitching, with the first row of stitching 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the top edge, 1/4 inch gauge.

301 EFa-2 10-12

Seam and stitching type

Stitches per inch

6. Make and attach utility and pencil pockets – Continued.

b. Fold the pencil compartment at the lower notches to form the two

(2) lower openings and sew with a double row of stitching 1/4 inch gauge, 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the folded edge.

301 OSf-2 10-12

c. Fold the opening to the center notch, tacking each side edge with a single row of stitching.

301 SSa-1 10-12

d. Slit the fold at the bottom and through the center to make the pencil pass-through.

NOTE: The front and the rear openings of the pencil compartment shall be 7/8 inch (±1/8 inch) wide.

e. Join the pencil compartment to the utility compartment with a double row of stitching 1/4 inch gauge 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge along both sides, in accordance with the notches, and with the bottom edges even.

301 LSd-2 10-12

f. Place a single row of stitching centered between the front and the back edge of the entire length of the pencil compartment to separate the openings.

301 SSa-1 10-12

g. Bartack the ends of all pencil compartment openings with the bartack superimposed on the inner row of double stitching and on the center row of stitching.

brtck 28 per brtck

NOTE: The bartack shall be 3/8 to 1/2 inch long.

h. Fold the forward side of the utility compartment and the slide fastener tape cover. Insert the cord in the fold and stitch close to the cord with a single row of stitching.

301 EFa-1 10-12

i. Form a 3/4 inch bellow by joining the two (2) bottom corners with a single row of stitching 1/4 inch from the end.

301 SSa-1 10-12

j. Sew the slide fastener tape to the forward side of the utility and pencil pocket with a double row of stitching 1/8 to 1/4 inch gauge, 1/4 inch from the edge of the scoops with the beaded edge covering the scoops.

301 LSb-2 10-12

k. Position the slide fastener cover on the opposite slide fastener tape, with the beaded edge covering the scoops, and join with a single row of stitching 1/4 inch from the edge of the scoops.

301 SSa-1 10-12

l. Position the utility and pencil pocket on the left sleeve according to the pattern. Turn the raw edges under 3/8 inch and sew with a single row of stitching 1/16 inch from the folded edge.

301 LSd-1 10-12

m. Place a second row of stitching 1/4 inch from the front edge and across the top of the utility and pencil pocket.

301 SSv-1 10-12

n. Bartack across each end of the slide fastener on the inner row of stitching with a 1/2 inch wide bartack.

brtck 28 per brtck

Seam and stitching type

Stitches per inch

6. Make and attach utility and pencil pockets – Continued.

NOTE: The finished pockets shall be 5-3/4 inches (±1/4 inch) long by 4 inches (±1/4 inch) wide, including the slide fastener tape and cover.

The width measurement shall be taken across the top of the pocket.

The top of the pencil pocket shall finish approximately 3/8 inch from top of the finished utility pocket. The slide fastener shall close with the slide at the top of the pocket.

7. Make sleeves.

a. Join each elbow seam with a safety stitch, 1/2 inch gauge. 515, 516, 517, or

SSa-2 10-12

b. Turn and raise stitch, with the topsleeve overlapping the undersleeve, with a single row of stitching 1/4 inch from the edge.

301 LSq-2(b) 10-12

OR

c. As an alternative to operations 7a. and 7b., with the top sleeve overlapping, the under sleeve join each elbow seam of the sleeve with a double-lapped, double-stitched seam, 3/16 to 5/16 inch gauge.

301 or

LSc-2 10-12

8. Join shoulders.

a. Join each front to the back, at the shoulders, with a 1/2 inch gauge safety stitch.

515, 516, 517, or

SSa-2 10-12

b. Turn and raise stitch, with the back overlapping the fronts, with a single row of stitching 1/4 inch from the folded edge.

301 LSq-2(b) 10-12

OR

c. As an alternative to operations 8a. and 8b., with the back overlapping the front, join each front to the back at the shoulder with a double-lapped, double-stitched seam, 3/16 to 5/16 inch gauge.

301 or

LSc-2 10-12

9. Make protective fly.

a. Fold the protective fly inside out. Position the interlining on the protective fly, even with the fold and the ends. Join across the ends with a single row of stitching 1/2 inch from the edge.

301 SSe-2(a) 10-12

b. Turn and raise stitch with a single row of stitching 1/4 inch from the edge on all four (4) sides. 301

SSe-2(b) and

OSf-1 10-12

c. Quilt the protective fly, through and through, with a single row of diagonal stitching with the points of the stitching approximately 3 inches apart.

301 SSa-1 10-12

OR

d. As an alternative to Operation 9c., quilt the fly, through and through, with four (4) rows of equally spaced parallel stitching.

301 SSv-4 10-12

Seam and stitching type

Stitches per inch

10. Attach sleeves.

a. Join the sleeves to the armholes, with a single row of stitching 1/2 inch from the edge.

301 or

LSq-2(a) 10-12

b. Turn and raise stitch on the fronts and the backs, from the elbow seam to the front armhole notch, or approximately 3 inches from the shoulder seam, with a single row of stitching 1/4 inch from the folded edge. Alignment of sleeve seams shall not be staggered by more than 1/4 inch.

301 LSq-2(b) 10-12

11. Join side seams and sleeve inseams.

a. Join each side seam to sleeve inseam, from the sleeve terminals to the bottom of the fronts, with a single row of stitching 1/2 inch from the edge.

301 or

LSq-2(a) 10-12

b. Turn and raise stitch on each front with the front overlapping the back at the side seams, with a single row of stitching 1/4 inch from the folded edge.

301 LSq-2(b) 10-12

OR

c. As an alternative to operations 11a. and 11b., with the front overlapping the back, join side seams and sleeve inseams with a double-lapped, double-stitched seam 3/16 to 5/16 inch gauge.

301 or

LSc-2 10-12

12. Make collar.

a. Quilt the undercollar leaf to the interlining with a series of diagonal stitching. The points of the diagonal stitching shall terminate at the edge of the collar, and the points of the stitching shall be approximately 3 inches apart at the top edge and 2-3/4 inches apart at the bottom edge of the collar.

301 SSv-1 10-12

OR

b. As an alternative to Operation 12a., the undercollar may be quilted to the interlining with six (6) rows of evenly spaced stitching.

401 SSv-1 10-12

c. Quilt the undercollar stand to the interlining with five (5) or six (6) rows of horizontal stitching, approximately 1/4 inch apart, centered in the stand.

301 or

SSv-5 10-12

d. Join the undercollar stand to the undercollar, and the topcollar stand to the topcollar, with a single row of stitching 1/4 inch from the edge.

301 or

LSq-2(a) 10-12

e. Turn and raise stitch, with the stand overlapping the collar, with a single row of stitching 1/16 inch from the edges.

301 LSq-2(b) 10-12

f. Join the topcollar to the undercollar with a single row of stitching 1/4 inch from the edge.

301 or

SSe-2(a) 10-12

g. Turn; force out the edges.

Seam and stitching type

Stitches per inch

13. Make hanger.

Make the hanger of the basic material. 301 EFp-2 10-12

NOTE: The finished hanger shall be 1/2 inch (±1/8 inch) wide by 3-1/2 inches (±1/4 inch) long. The stitching shall be 1/16 inch from each folded edge.

14. Join shoulders of quilted liner.

a. Join the fronts to the backs, at the shoulders of the quilted liner, with a single row of stitching 1/2 inch from the edge.

301 or

SSa-1 10-12

b. Open the seam joining the shoulders of the quilted liner and raise stitch with a double row of stitching 1/8 inch from each folded edge.

301 or

SSz-2 10-12

OR

Joining may be performed on a safety stitch machine which stitches and overlocks in one (1) operation. When safety stitch is used, the seam shall be positioned toward the back of the jacket and raise stitched 1/4 inch from the folded edge.

515, 516, 517, or

301 or

SSa-2, LSbm-3, or

LSbm-4

10-12

15. Join sleeves of quilted liner.

a. Join each topsleeve to the undersleeve at the elbow seam of the quilted liner with a single row of stitching 1/2 inch from the edge.

301 or

SSa-1 10-12

b. Open the seam joining the topsleeve to the undersleeve at the elbow of the quilted liner and raise stitch with a double row of stitching 1/8 inch from each folded edge.

301 or

SSz-2 10-12

OR

Joining may be performed on a safety stitch machine which stitches and overlocks in one (1) operation.

515, 516, 517, or

301 or

SSa-2

LSbm-3

16. Join side seams of quilted liner.

a. Join each side seam of the quilted liner, from the sleeve terminal to the bottom edge, with a single row of stitching 1/2 inch from the edge.

301 or

SSa-1 10-12

OR

Joining maybe be performed on a safety stitch machine which stitches and overlocks in one (1) operation.

515, 516, 517, or

SSa-2 10-12

b. Open the side seams and raise stitch with a double row of stitching 1/8 inch from each edge.

301 or

SSz-2 10-12

Seam and stitching type

Stitches per inch

16. Join side seams of quilted liner – Continued.

c. Join each sleeve to the armhole of the quilted lining with a single row of stitching 1/2 inch from the edge.

301 or

SSa-1 10-12

d. Open the seam and raise stitch, with a double row of stitching 1/8 inch from the edge.

301 SSz-2 10-12

NOTE: Operations 16b. and 16d. may be performed as one (1) operation.

17. Prepare waistband.

a. Sew the outer shell extension facing pieces to each end of the knitted waistband with a single row of stitching 1/2 inch from the edge.

301 LSq-2(a) 10-12

b. Turn and raise stitch, with the outer shell overlapping the knitted waistband, with a single row of stitching 1/4 inch from the edge.

301 LSq-2(b) 10-12

18. Attach waistband and corded beading.

a. Sew one (1) side of the waistband to the bottom of the outer shell with a single row of stitching 1/2 inch from the edge.

301 SSa-1 10-12

b. Fold the front edge of waistband to the inside at the pattern marks.

Insert the cord in the fold and stitch close to the cord with a single row of stitching. The beaded edges shall be flush with each other when attached to the closed slide fastener.

301 EFa-1 10-12

c. Attach the opposite edge of the waistband to the bottom of the quilted liner with a single row of stitching 1/2 inch from the edge.

301 SSa-1 10-12

d. With the jacket turned inside out, join the outer shell, the quilted liner, and the waistband (between the extension pieces) with a single row of stitching 1/2 inch from the edge.

301 SSa-1 10-12

19. Attach wristlets.

Sew each pre-folded knitted wristlet to the bottom of the quilted liner and outer shell sleeve terminal with a single row of stitching 1/2 inch from the edge.

301 SSa-1 10-12

20. Join slide fastener to protective fly.

Position the right slide fastener tape, with the slider attached, on the protective fly, having the raw edge even with the tape edge, and join with a single row of stitching 1/4 inch from the edge of the scoops.

301 SSa-1 10-12

21. Join assembled slide fastener and protective fly.

a. Join the assembled slide fastener and protective fly to the right front quilted liner with a single row of stitching 1/4 inch from the edge of the scoops.

301 LSq-2(a) 10-12

b. Join the slide fastener to the left front quilted liner with a single row of stitching 1/4 inch from the edge of the scoops.

301 LSq-2(a) 10-12

Seam and stitching type

Stitches per inch

21. Join assembled slide fastener and protective fly – Continued.

NOTE: The slide fastener shall be positioned 3/8 to 1/2 inch from the bottom of the collar.

22. Attach hanger.

Position the hanger on the back panel of the lining, centered 1 inch down from the neck opening raw edge, and join with a single row of stitching 1/16 inch from the edge, forming a 3/8 inch by 3/8 inch box and “X” stitch or 1/2 inch long bartack.

LSbj-1 10-12

28 per

23. Attach jacket label.

Position the top of the combination identification, size, and care instruction label directly below the hanger and sew (on all four [4] sides) to the quilted liner, with a single row of stitching, 1/16 inch from the edge.

301 LSbj-1 10-12

24. Turn jacket.

a. Raise stitch around each wristlet on the outer shell with a single row of stitching 1/4 inch from the fold.

301 SSq-2(a) 10-12

b. Join the outer shell to the lining at the front opening. Position the beaded edge on the slide fastener, with the beaded edges butting when the slide fastener is closed and join with a single row of stitching 1/2 inch from the beaded edge. The fronts shall be even (1/4 inch tolerance) at top and bottom with slide fastener fully engaged.

301 SSa-1 10-12

c. Join the outer shell to the lining at the neck opening with a single row of stitching 1/8 to 1/4 inch from the edge.

301 SSa-1 10-12

25. Attach collar.

a. Join the undercollar to the neck opening with a single row of stitching 3/8 inch from the edge.

301 SSa-1 10-12

b. Turn the raw edge of the topcollar under 3/8 inch and join with a single row of stitching 1/16 inch from the folded edge.

301 LSd-1 10-12

26. Raise stitch above knitted waistband.

Raise stitch across the bottom of the jacket, 1/4 inch above the knitted waistband, between waistband extension, with a single row of stitching.

301 SSq-2(a) (shows finished seam)

10-12

27. Make pull tab.

a. Fabricate the pull tab for the slide fastener for the front opening so the finished pull tab shall be 1/2 inch wide by 3 inches long. Stitching shall be 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge.

301 EFp-2 10-12

Seam and stitching type

Stitches per inch

27. Make pull tab – Continued.

b. Pull the tab through the hole in top of the slider’s pull tab so the ends of the tab shall be even. Bartack at the bottom, center, and end of the tab, across the 1/2 inch width.

brtck SSc-1 28 per brtck

28. Clean jacket.

a. Trim all thread ends. Remove all loose thread ends.

b. Remove all spots, stains, and shade tickets without damage to the material.

3.11 Finished measurements. The finished measurements for the jacket shall conform to Table IX.

TABLE IX. Finished measurements (inches).

Size Back Length

(A) 1/2 Chest

(B) Sleeve Inseam

(C)

SMALL 21-3/4 22-1/2 20-3/4

MEDIUM 22-1/4 24-1/2 21

LARGE 22-3/4 26-1/2 21-1/4

X-LARGE 23-1/4 28-1/2 21-1/2

XX-LARGE 23-3/4 30-1/2 21-3/4

TOLERANCE + 3/8, -5/8 ±1/2 ±3/8

3.11.1 Methods of measurement. The jacket shall be zipped, laid smooth and flat, and measured as follows:

(A) 1/2 Back Length Measure down the center of the back starting from the bottom of the undercollar seam to the top of the knit waistband seam.

(B) 1/2 Chest Measure across at the base of the armhole, from folded edge to folded edge.

(C) Sleeve Inseam Measure along the underarm seam, from the armhole to the seam above the knit cuff.

3.12 Workmanship. The finished jacket shall conform to or exceed the quality of product established by this specification. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable acceptable quality levels.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article/pilot lot inspection (see 4.2).

b. Quality conformance inspection (see 4.3).

c. Component and material inspection (see 4.4).

d. End item dimensional inspection exam (see 4.6.1).

e. End item visual exam (see 4.6.3).

4.2 First article/pilot lot inspection. The first article and/or pilot lot sample(s) shall be submitted in accordance with 3.1.1. The sample size shall be as specified in the procurement document and shall be inspected for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship, and dimensional requirements. The presence of excessive defects, as defined by the contract, or failure to pass any test, shall be cause for rejection of the first article.

4.3 Quality conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall consist of all examinations and tests specified in this specification. Unless otherwise specified, sampling for conformance inspection shall be in accordance with the provisions of ASQ/ANSI Z1.4. The inspection and the Acceptable Quality Limits (AQL) shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

4.4 Component and material inspection. In accordance with 4.2 and 4.3, components and materials shall be inspected in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents (see 2.1) unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this specification or applicable purchase document.

4.4.1 Component testing. In addition to any testing required, components listed in Table X shall be tested for the characteristics noted. The methods of testing specified in Table X shall be followed. The lot and sample sizes shall be as follows:

Lot size Sample size

800 or less 2

801 to 22,000 inclusive 3

22,001 or more 5

The lot shall be unacceptable if one (1) or more sample units fail to meet any test requirement specified. The lot size units and sample units shall be as follows:

Component Lot size unit Sample unit

Lining facing for quilted liner Yard 4

Batting Yard 4

Quilted liner Yard 4

Interlining Yard 2

Thread Spool 3 each

TABLE X. Component tests.

Component Characteristic Requirement Test method Lining facing for quilted liner

Weight (osy)

3.5.2

ASTM D3776/D3776M 4/

Weave Visual 4/

Fiber content (%) AATCC TM20 or

AATCCTM20A 4/

Flame resistance (warp x filling) After flame (second)

Initial ASTM D6413/6413M 4/ After 5 launderings AATCC TM135 (3), (V), (A)iii 4/

After glow (seconds) Initial After 5 launderings

Char length (inches) Initial After 5 launderings

Breaking strength (lbs.)

ASTM D5034 4/ Warp

Filling Dimensional stability (%) AATCC TM135 (3), (V), (A)iii 4/

Batting Weight (osy)

3.5.3

ASTM D3776/D3776M 4/

Construction Visual 4/

Fiber content (%) AATCC TM20 or

AATCCTM20A 4/

Thickness (inch) ASTM D1777 4/ Flame resistance (length x width) (Initial)

ASTM D6413/D6413 4/ After flame (second) After glow (seconds) Char length (inches)

Quilted liner Dimensional shrinkage after 3 drycleanings (%)

3.5.4 AATCC TM158 4/, 5/

Interlining Steam heat shrinkage (%) 3.6.1 1/ Thread Colorfastness to drycleaning 3.6.2 AATCC TM132, 2/, 3/

1/ A specimen of 22 inches x 22 inches shall be hot pressed at 325 °F (±4.0 °F) for 25 seconds, vacuumed for 5 seconds, and cooled for 30 minutes. Measurement from each of three (3) specimens shall be taken from the mark size of 18 inches x 18 inches. Average of three (3) measurements shall be used for pass or fail.

2/ Evaluate using AATCC EP1, Gray Scale for Color Change.

3/ Evaluate using AATCC EP8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale.

4/ A certificate of compliance is acceptable for this requirement.

5/ As an alternative, an environment-friendly cleaning agent other than perchloroethylene is allowed.

4.5 In-process inspection. Inspection shall be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to determine whether construction details that cannot be examined in the finished product are in accordance with specified requirements. This inspection shall include verification that the working patterns conform to the Government patterns in all respects.

Whenever any nonconformance is noted, corrections shall be made to the affected items and lot in-process. Items that cannot be corrected shall be removed from production.

4.6 End item exam. The end item shall be examined for compliance with 3.3 through

3.12. The jacket shall be examined for defects in material, design, construction, dimensions, and workmanship. The presence of excessive defects, as defined by the contract, or failure to pass any test shall be cause for rejection.

4.6.1 End item dimensional inspection. The jacket shall be examined for conformance to the dimension specified in Table IX. Any dimension not within the specified tolerance shall be classified as a defect. The lot size shall be expressed in units of jackets. The inspection and AQL, expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

4.6.2 End item testing. The appearance rating of the seams and stitching of the finished jacket shall be examined in accordance with AATCC TM143 after one (1) drycleaning, specified in AATCC TM158 and shall have a rating of 4 or greater when evaluated against AATCC Photographic Seam Smoothness Replicas. This requirement shall be applicable to all seams.

Testing shall be as specified in Table XI.

TABLE XI. Seam appearance.

Characteristic Requirement paragraph Test method

Seam appearance (after 1 drycleaning)

3.9.6; 4.6.2 AATCC TM143, AATCC TM158 1/

1/ As an alternative, an environment-friendly cleaning agent other than perchloroethylene is allowed.

4.6.3 End item visual examination. The end item shall be examined for the defects listed in Table XII in accordance with ASQ/ANSI Z1.4.

4.6.3.1 Shade matching. The shade of the finished jacket shall match the shade of the standard sample and shall be in accordance with AATCC EP9, Option A, Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles.

TABLE XII. Classification of defects.

Defect Major Minor

1. Bartacks

a. One (1) bartack missing, insecure, or misplaced; not serving intended purpose

b. Two (2) bartacks missing, insecure, or misplaced; not serving intended purpose

c. Three (3) or more bartacks missing, insecure, or misplaced; not serving intended purpose

d. Any bartack less than specified length or width not affecting function 203

2. Cleanness

a. Indelible ink shade stamping exposed on outside or spots or stains of permanent nature

b. Removable spot or stain clearly noticeable 204

c. Thread ends not trimmed or one (1) or more shade tickets not removed

3. Component and assembly

a. Any component defective 103

b. Any component missing 104

c. Any required operation omitted or improperly performed 105

4. Cutting

a. Any component not cut in accordance with directional lines on patterns or specified requirements

5. Material defects and workmanship damages

a. Any weakening material defects such as hole, smash, multiple floats, or slubs, which might develop into hole (except quilted liner and knitted fabric)

b. Slubs greater than AATCC Fabric Defect Scales (slub replicas) Level C

c. Large drill hole, cut, tear, mend, or needle chew that may develop into hole

d. Ruptured fibers in line of sewing (usually caused by broken, blunt, or hooked needles) affecting appearance or serviceability (except quilted liner)

e. Any mend, darn, or patch on outside 110

f. Mend, darn, or patch on inside more than 1/2 inch in any dimension 207

g. Basic fabric containing two (2) or more contiguous missing or broken picks or ends or two (2) contiguous stripbacks

h. Knitted material containing any broken yarn, dropped stitch, run, or abrasion mark resulting in a weakened area

i. Basic fabric containing one (1) missing or broken pick or end 208

j. Quilted liner containing any hole, scissor or knife cut, tear, burn, or needle chew that may develop into a hole

TABLE XII. Classification of defects – Continued.

5. Material defects and workmanship damages – Continued.

k. Quilted liner containing any weakening defect such as smash, multiple float, or loose slub that may develop into a hole

l. Quilted liner containing darn or mend 210

m. Quilted liner containing exposed drill hole 211

n. One (1) or more rows of quilting stitching omitted in quilted liner 114

o. More than 1-1/2 inches of broken or missing quilting stitches in quilted liner

p. Batting in quilted liner uneven, resulting in thick or thin place 115

q. One (1) or more laps of batting of quilted liner 116

r. One (1) or more piecing or splicing of covering of batting of quilted liner

6. Seams and stitchings

a. Seam twisted, pleated, or badly puckered 1/ 213

b. Part of jacket caught in any unrelated operation or stitching 118

c. Thread breaks or end(s) of stitching, if not caught in other seams or stitchings, not securely backstitched or tacked as specified

d. Gauge of edge, top, or raise stitching irregular, that is, unevenly gauged or corresponding stitchings not uniformly gauged, affecting…