NCTRF PD 08-06C - Shirt Mans Service - 5-1-2023.pdf

NCTRF-PD 08-06C

Cage Code 32263

1 May 2023

SUPERSEDING

NCTRF-PD 08-06B

5 December 2007

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

SHIRT, MAN’S, SERVICE, KHAKI

This purchase document is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Department of the Navy.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for a man's short sleeve shirt with open notch collar.

1.2 Classification. The shirt is available in the following body types and sizes (see 6.2):

1.2.1 Garment Classification. The shirts shall be of the following types:

Type I - Athletic Type II - Classic

1.2.2 Schedule of sizes. The shirt shall be constructed in the following sizes.

Extra Small, Small, Medium, Large, X-Large, 2X-Large, 3X-Large, and 4X-Large

AMSC N/A FSC 8405

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release.

INCH-POUND

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed procuring activity.

NCTRF PD 08-06C

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 or 4 of this purchase document. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this purchase document or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 or 4 of this purchase document, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton- or Polyester-Covered A-A-52106 - Cloth, Twill, or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend A-A-59992 - Cloth, Interfacings: Woven, Cotton and Synthetic A-A-59994 - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple, (Plastic)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-32075 - Label; for Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General Use)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARD

MIL-STD-1492 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Men’s Shirts

- Department of Defense Standard Shades for Sewing Thread

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil.)

2.3 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those specified in the solicitation or contract.

NAVY CLOTHING AND TEXTILE RESEARCH FACILITY

NCTRF PD 04-06 - Cloth, Tropical: Polyester and Wool

- Navy Button Shades Reference Card

(Copies of these documents are available from procuring activity, see 6.4.)

https://quicksearch.dla.mil/

2.4 Non-government publications. The following documents form a part of this purchase document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILES CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC TM20A - Fiber Analysis: Quantitative AATCC TM117 - Colorfastness to Heat: Dry (Excluding Pressing) AATCC TM132 - Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning AATCC TM143 - Appearance of Apparel and Textile Products after

Laundering

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies of this document are available online at https://www.asq.org/.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D 3776 - Standard Test Method for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric ASTM D 6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.astm.org or from ASTM International.)

2.5 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this purchase description and the references cited herein, the text of this purchase document shall take precedence.

Nothing in this purchase document, however, shall supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS.

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Design. The shirt shall have an open notch collar without collar stays, set-in short sleeves, turned back front facings and a two piece back yoke with inside lining. The shirt shall have two hemmed patch pockets (graded for size group) with rounded bottoms and button-down pocket flaps with vertical buttonholes. The buttons on the pockets shall be horizontally aligned with the second shirt front button. The shirt shall have a six (6) front button closure with vertical buttonholes backed with interfacing, and one replacement button. The collar and pocket flaps shall be interfaced (sew in). A two-compartment pencil pocket shall be stitched inside the left front pocket. The collar, pockets and pocket flaps shall be edgestitched. The shirt bottom shall https://www.aatcc.org/ https://www.asq.org/ https://www.astm.org/ have a rolled hem. The top-collar shall have a banana-shaped collar band lining (graded for size group). The shirt shall have permanent military creases: three permanent creases on the back;

one on each front continuous through the front of each pocket and the top ply of each pocket flap.

3.2.1 Design details.

3.2.1.1 Buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be double barred, straight style. The finished cut length of the buttonhole shall be 9/16 inch. The stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric, through all plies (basic and interfacing), and the ends shall be securely tacked. The straight style buttonholes shall have both ends securely barred. The buttonholes shall be cut clean with all loose threads trimmed to within 1/8 inch of the tack. Loose threads (floats) in the buttonholes shall be prohibited.

3.2.1.2 Buttonhole placement. All front buttonholes shall be placed on the shirt in accordance with the pattern marks. The front closure buttonholes shall be placed on the left side of the shirt as worn. The six buttonholes shall be vertically aligned on left center front 7/8 (+ 1/8) inch from and parallel to the shirt’s front folded edge. One vertical buttonhole shall be placed in each pocket flap with the inside cut edge of the buttonhole to finish 1/2 (+ 1/16) inch from the pointed edge. The interfacing for buttonhole side stitching shall not be visible when extended above top buttonhole and shall be caught in buttonhole stitching.

3.2.1.3 Buttons. The buttons shall be securely sewn to the shirt by lockstitch and shall be attached by x-stitch. The buttons on the pocket shall be horizontally aligned with each other as well as with the second shirt front button. Loose threads from the button stitching shall be trimmed to a maximum of 1/8 inch. The buttons shall be centered to correspond with the buttonholes as specified below.

• Six on the right front through all plies to correspond with the buttonholes. The center of the buttons shall be 7/8 (+ 1/8) inch from the folded edge.

• One button through each pocket through all plies of the pocket hem centered to correspond with the buttonhole.

• One replacement button placed at bottom center front bottom or on the bottom of the side seam of the shirt.

3.2.1.4 Collar. The underside of the collar shall not be visible on the finished side of the shirt.

The pointed ends of the collar shall be uniform in shape and the ends equal distance from the shirt front edges. The collar shall be pressed smooth and flat. The shirt shall not have collar stays. The collar shall be edgestitched.

3.2.1.5 Collar band lining. The collar shall incorporate the collar band lining in the center back collar neckline. The collar lining shall be edgestitched on all sides. Collar band lining are graded depending on the size of shirt.

3.2.1.6 Front facing. The center front turned back facing shall be attached at the shoulder seam by positioning the ends of the facing even with the edges of the shoulder seam allowance and stitching to seam allowance, or the ends of the facings shall be secured to the shoulder seam with a tack. The tack is visible on seam and shall be superimposed on edge stitching on the outside of the shirt.

3.2.1.7 Pencil pocket. The pencil pocket shall be constructed of basic fabric sewn onto the left front of the shirt. The pencil pocket shall be positioned according to pattern marks. The pencil pocket shall have a 3/4 inch top hem, turned under sides and shall be edgestitched on the sides with backstitching at the top for reinforcement. The pencil pocket shall contain two compartments with a row of vertical stitching at the center. The pencil pocket shall not be visible from the outside of the shirt.

3.2.1.8 Pockets and pocket flaps.

3.2.1.8.1 Pockets. The pockets shall have hem stitching matching the contour of the overedged hem shape and the top pocket corners shall be reinforced. The top corners of the pockets shall have a triangle stitch on each end of the pocket opening or backstitched 3/4 inch on each end of the pocket opening superimposed upon the pocket stitching. Pockets shall be of uniform size and shape and conform to finished pocket templates. Alignment shall be straight and parallel to the center front when placed in accordance with the pattern marks. The pocket’s seam allowance shall not visible above the finished pocket’s hem. The seam allowance may be trimmed at an angle or caught in the seam allowance or triangle stitching. Pockets are graded depending on the size of shirt. The pattern marks on the shirt front indicate the location of the pockets.

3.2.1.8.2 Pocket flaps. The pocket flaps shall be edgestitched along the folded edges on the sides and pointed bottom edge and backtacked at the ends on both sides. The finished pocket flaps shall conform to the finished pocket flap template. The underside of the pocket flaps shall not be visible from the finished side of the shirt. The underside of the pocket flaps shall contain no loose threads or pinked edges. The pattern marks on the shirt front indicate the location of pocket flaps. The bottom raw edge of the pocket flap shall be placed on the pattern mark and stitched 1/8 inch from the raw edge. The pocket flaps shall then be turned down and topstitched 1/4 inch from the folded edge enclosing the raw edges. The ends of the topstitching shall have a 1/4 inch backstitching at each end. Pocket flaps shall be of uniform size and shape. Alignment shall be straight and the flap shall be properly centered over its corresponding pocket.

3.2.1.9 Shirt Bottom Hem. The shirt shall have a finished rolled hem and shall be backtacked 1/4 inch minimum at the center fronts.

3.2.1.10 Sleeve Hem. The underarm seam shall be joined first and then the sleeve hemmed.

The raw edge of the sleeve shall be turned under and stitched, no raw edge or overedge is allowed.

3.2.1.11 Yoke. The shirt shall have a two piece yoke consisting of a single ply of the lining on the inside of the shirt and a single ply basic material for the outside of the shirt. The yoke shall be edgestitched on the bottom and shoulder seams. All yoke seams shall be clean finished.

3.2.1.12 Permanent creases. Each shirt shall have three (3) vertical permanent silicone creases on the back of the shirt and two (2) vertical permanent creases on the shirt front. On the back, the permanent creases shall be positioned in accordance the pattern marks and continuous from the yoke seam to the bottom of the shirt. On the front, the permanent creases shall be positioned in accordance with the pattern marks and shall be positioned through the front pockets and top ply of front pocket flaps, giving the appearance of one continuous line. Each permanent crease shall be a single continuous line formed by applying a 1/32 inch (nominal) silicone adhesive non-staining bead to the backside of the basic material. The permanent creases shall match the standard sample for “appearance” for crease sharpness. The shirt creases shall exhibit a scale rating of 3 (± 0.5) initially when evaluated using AATCC Crease Retention Replicas when tested as specified in 4.4.1.1. The silicone bead shall be applied to the following cut parts prior to assembly: back, fronts, pockets, and top pocket flaps. Each bead shall be applied evenly and equally in a straight vertical line from the top to the bottom of each cut part. The creases on the center fronts shall present a continuous vertical appearance from shoulder to the bottom of the shirt with no more than 1/32 inch variation at the junction of the shirt body and at the pocket and flap area. The finished permanent creases shall show no evidence of flaking, decomposition, failure to retain creases, cracking, staining, strike back through the face of the material when tested for resistance to dry heat and perchloroethylene solvent as specified in 4.4.1.1.

3.2.1.13 Figures. Figures are furnished for information purposes only. When inconsistencies exist between the written purchase description and the figures, the written purchase description shall govern.

3.3 Materials.

3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for the shirt shall be a tropical, polyester and wool blend, 10.0 (± 0.5) ounces per linear yard, shade Khaki 3729 conforming to NCTRF PD 04-06, Class 2.

3.3.2 Interfacings.

3.3.2.1 Sew-in. The collar and pocket flaps shall have a khaki, white or neutral color sew-in interfacing in accordance with A-A-59992, Type II, Class 4. The interfacing shall be to the top ply of all components. The interfacing shall be cut on the bias.

3.3.2.2 Interfacing, buttonhole side. The interfacing for the buttonhole side of the shirt shall be a 1-1/2 inches strip, woven 100% polyester weighing 1.15 (+ 10%) oz/sq.yd (see 6.5) when tested as specified in 4.4.1.2. The color shall be khaki, white or neutral.

3.3.3 Thread. The thread shall be a cotton covered polyester-core thread, conforming to Type I, A-A-50199, Tex 31-35, 2 ply. The thread color shall match the basic material, NCTRF PD 04- 06, Class 2.

3.3.4 Buttons. The buttons shall conform to the Navy Button Shades Reference Card, Khaki 300, and shall be 20-ligne melamine, Type I, Class 1, Style 24A of A-A-59994.

3.3.5 Lining. The lining for the yoke and collar band shall be 100% polyester twill, shall match the color of the basic material and shall be in accordance with A-A-52106, Class 3 (lightweight).

3.3.6 Labels.

3.3.6.1 Personal/identification/instruction label. Each shirt shall have a combination personal/identification/instruction label conforming to Type VI, Classes 10 and 15 of MIL-DTL- 32075. The label shall be placed on the inside right front of the shirt. It shall be positioned with its side edge one to two inches from bottom edge of the shirt with top edge of label parallel to folded front edge. The label shall be stitched on all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch from its edge and not stitched through printing; replacement button shall not be stitched through label. All the printing shall be legible throughout the expected life of the shirt. The color of the label shall be white. The label shall bear the following inscription:

NAME:__________________________

SERVICE NO:

SHIRT, MAN'S, SERVICE, KHAKI, TYPE I, ATHLETIC FIT (EXAMPLE)

75% POLYESTER 25% WOOL

SPO100-00-C-0000 (EXAMPLE)

NAME OF CONTRACTOR:

NAME OF MANUFACTURER: (IF OTHER THAN CONTRACTOR)

LAUNDERING INSTRUCTIONS

MACHINE WASH, WARM WATER (120°F MAX), PERMANENT PRESS CYCLE

DO NOT MIX COLORS

DO NOT USE CHLORINE BLEACH

TUMBLE DRY, MEDIUM HEAT- REMOVE IMMEDIATELY

TOUCH UP WITH WARM IRON, IF NEEDED

MAY ALSO BE DRY CLEANED

or

FOLLOW SHIPBOARD WASH FORMULA III

3.3.6.2 Size label. Each shirt shall have a size label conforming to Type VI, Class 2 of MIL- DTL-32075. The size label shall be stitched in collar joining seam at center back. All printing shall be legible for the life of the garment. The label shall also reflect the body type “Classic” or “Athletic” adjacent to the size designation. The inscription shall be as stated below.

Abbreviations shall not be used for the body type for Classic and Athletic fits and shall be completely spelled out on all size labels.

Medium – Classic (example) NSN: 8415-00-000-0000 (example)

3.3.6.3 Bar code label. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The paper used for the tags shall be a standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 100 pounds with a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a hole and be attached to each item by a fastener, clearly legible and readable by scanner. The bar code element shall be a 13 digit National Stock Number (NSN). There shall be a twelve digit Universal Product Code (UPC) assigned for all NSNs by the Government. The initials “UPC” shall appear beneath code. The bar codes for NSN and UPC shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so that they are completely visible on the item when it is folded and or packaged as specified. The label’s location shall cause no damage to the item.

3.3.7 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible provided that the materials meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.4 Patterns. Standard patterns, to be used to cut working patterns, will be furnished by the Government (see 6.2). The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns.

Neither the Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way, except that additional notches for use during construction are permitted on the working patterns. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability or appearance requirements cited in the purchase description. The Government patterns provides for a 1/4 inch seam allowance for all seams.

3.4.1 List of pattern parts. The component parts of the shirt shall be cut from the materials as specified and in accordance with the number of parts required for the manufacturing process as specified in Table I. Note: “I” denotes Athletic Fit and “II” denotes Classic Fit.

TABLE I. List of pattern parts

PIECE NAME SPEC NAME CUT #

BASIC MATERIAL

PD0806I-FRONT

PD0806II-FRONT

FRONT 2

PD0806I-BACK

PD0806II-BACK

BACK 1

PD0806I-YOKE

PD0806II-YOKE

YOKE 1

PD0806I-YOKELINING

PD0806II-YOKELINING

YOKELINING 1

PD0806I-SLEEVE

PD0806II-SLEEVE

SLEEVE 2

PD0806I-COLLAR

PD0806II-COLLAR

COLLAR 2

PD0806I-CLRBNDLIN

PD0806II-CLRBNDLIN

CLRBNDLIN 1

TABLE I. List of pattern parts - Continued

PIECE NAME SPEC NAME CUT #

BASIC MATERIAL

PD0806I-POCKET

PD0806II-POCKET

POCKET 2

PD0806I-POCKETFLAP

PD0806II-POCKETFLAP

POCKET FLAP 4

PD0806I-PEN POCKET

PD0806II-PEN POCKET

PENPOCKET 1

INTERLINING

PD0806I-COLLARINT

PD0806II-COLLARINT

COLLARINT 1

PD0806I-PKTFLAPINT

PD0806II-PKTFLAPINT

PKTFLAPINT 2

TEMPLATE

PD0806I-FINPOCKET

PD0806II-FINPOCKET

FINPOCKET 0

PD0806I-FINPKTFLAP

PD0806II-FINPKTFLAP

FINPKTFLAP 0

3.4.2 Stitches, seams and stitching. Stitch, seam and stitching types shall conform to the requirements of ASTM D6193. Sleeve shall have an edgestitched hem after side seaming. The underarm seams, side seams, and sleeve setting seams shall be safety stitched. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckered or open seams result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so there is no tight or loose stitching. Where stitch type 401 is used, the looper (under thread) shall be on the inside of the shirt. Edgestitching shall be 1/16 inch. Topstitching shall be 3/16 to 1/4 inch. The guides and knives on the safety stitch machine shall be set to trim only the raveled ends of the fabric. All thread ends shall be trimmed to a maximum of 1/8 inch and all loose thread shall be removed from the shirt. Raw edges are not acceptable anywhere on the garment, except on the pocket seam allowances. Loose threads shall be removed from the shirt. All overedge and safety stitching shall be 8-12 stitches per inch. All 301 or 401 stitch types shall have 12-14 stitches per inch. Backtacking and backstitching shall be 1/4 inch minimum.

3.4.2.1 Thread breaks and ends of seams. Thread breaks and ends of stitching not caught in another line of stitching shall be backstitched at least 1/2 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching (except label) shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. The ends of the label stitching shall be overlapped not less than 3 stitches. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitches or thread breaks (401 stitch type) may be repaired by using 301 stitch type.

3.5 Pressing. The shirt shall be fully pressed. The lapels shall be roll pressed and shall not be hard pressed. The shirt’s fold back of the front neckline shall not be pressed. Side seams shall be pressed towards center back. The interlining for buttonhole side stitching shall not show after lapel pressing.

3.6 Shade and size marking. The component parts of the shirt shall be marked or ticketed to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method may be used except those listed below. The use of ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp or pencil is allowed, provided the numbering does not show on the outside of the garment and wherever possible, is covered by the seam allowance.

(1) Corrosive metal fastening devices

(2) Sew-on shade tickets

(3) Adhesive type tickets, which discolor or adhere to the material upon removal of tickets.

3.7 Sizes and measurements. Sizes and measurements of the finished shirt shall be as shown in Tables II, III and Table IV when measured as specified in 4.4.4. All measurements and tolerances are expressed in inches.

TABLE II. Sizes and finished dimensions for shirt (Type I - Athletic Fit)

A B C D E F G H J K

Size

Chest Waist Back Length

Yoke Width

Yoke Depth

Sleeve Length

Sleeve Bottom Opening

Collar Side Seam

Bottom Sweep

X-Small 39-3/4 32 30 16-1/4 3-3/4 6-1/4 13-1/4 15 16-1/2 35-5/8 Small 43-3/4 36 30-1/2 17-1/4 3-7/8 6-1/4 14-1/2 16 17 38-3/4 Medium 47-3/4 40 31 18-1/4 4 6-1/2 15-1/2 17 17-1/4 41-3/4 Large 51-3/4 44 31-1/2 19-1/4 4-1/8 6-1/2 16-1/2 18 17-1/2 44-1/2 X Large 55-3/4 48 32 20-1/4 4-1/4 6-3/4 17-3/4 19 18 47-1/2 2X Large 59-3/4 52 32-1/2 21-1/4 4-3/8 6-3/4 18-3/4 20 18-1/2 50-1/2 3X Large 63-3/4 56 33 22-1/2 4-1/2 7 20 21 18-3/4 53-1/2 4X Large 67-3/4 60 33-1/2 23-1/2 4-5/8 7 21-1/4 22 19 56-1/2 Tolerance ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/8 ± 1/4 ± 3/8 ± 1/4 ± 1/4 ± 1/2

THIS SECTION IS INTENTIONALLY LEFT BLANK

TABLE III. Sizes and finished dimensions for shirt (Type II - Classic Fit)

A B C D E F G H J K

Size

Chest Waist Back Length

Yoke Width

Yoke Depth

Sleeve Length

Sleeve Bottom Opening

Collar Side Seam

Bottom Sweep

X-Small 39-1/2 33-1/4 30-1/2 15-3/4 3-3/4 6 13 15 16-1/2 37 Small 43-1/2 37-3/4 31 16-3/4 3-7/8 6 14-1/4 16 17 40-1/4 Medium 47-1/2 42 31-1/2 17-3/4 4 6-1/4 15-1/4 17 17-1/4 43-3/4 Large 51-1/2 46-1/4 32 18-3/4 4-1/8 6-1/4 16-1/4 18 17-1/2 47 X Large 55-1/2 50-1/4 32-1/2 19-3/4 4-1/4 6-1/2 17-1/2 19 18 50-1/4 2X Large 59-1/2 55 33 21 4-3/8 6-1/2 18-1/2 20 18-1/2 53-1/2 3X Large 63-1/2 59-1/2 33-1/2 22 4-1/2 6-3/4 19-3/4 21 18-3/4 56-3/4 4X Large 67-1/2 62-3/4 34 23 4-5/8 6-3/4 20-3/4 22 19 60 Tolerance ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/8 ± 1/4 ± 3/8 ± 1/4 ± 1/4 ± 1/2

TABLE IV. Finished shirt part dimensions (applied to Type I and II)

Finished shirt part 1/ Finished Dimensions (inches) Collar height (L) 2-7/8 to 3-1/8 Collar point length (M) 3-1/8 to 3-3/8 Collar lining, height (N) 1-1/8 to 1-1/4 inches Collar lining-A, length (P) 2/ 7-3/4 to 8-1/4 (XS to S) Collar lining-B, length (P) 2/ 8-3/4 to 9-1/4 (M to XL) Collar lining-C, length (P) 2/ 9-3/4 to 10-1/4 (2XL to 4XL) Pocket A, depth (R) 3/ 5-3/8 to 5-5/8 (XS to XL) Pocket B, depth (R) 3/ 5-5/8 to 5-7/8 (2XL to 4XL) Pocket A, width (T) 3/ 4-7/8 to 5-1/8 (XS to XL) Pocket B, width (T) 3/ 5-3/8 to 5-5/8 (2XL to 4XL) Pocket flaps A, width (U) 3/ 5-1/8 to 5-3/8 (XS to XL) Pocket flaps B, width (U) 3/ 5-5/8 to 5-7/8 (2XL to 4XL) Pocket flaps A, length at center (V) 3/ 2-3/8 to 2-5/8 (XS to XL) Pocket flaps B, length at center (V) 3/ 2-5/8 to 2-7/8 (2XL to 4XL) Pocket flaps A, length at sides (W) 3/ 1-5/8 to 1-7/8 (XS to XL) Pocket flaps B, length at sides (W) 3/ 1-7/8 to 2-1/8 (2XL to 4XL) Sleeve hem width (Y) 7/8 to 1-1/8 Shirt bottom Hem (AA) 3/16 to 1/4 Pencil pocket, width (AB) 1-7/8 to 2-1/8

1/ The dimension shall apply to all shirt sizes unless otherwise specified.

2/ Collar lining length: “A” denotes sizes X-Small to Small and “B” denotes sizes Medium to X- Large and “C” demotes sizes 2X-Large to 4X-Large.

3/ Pocket Flaps: “A” denotes sizes X-Small to X-Large and “B” denotes sizes 2X-Large to 4X- Large.

3.8 Workmanship. The finished shirts shall be uniform in quality and free from defects that adversely affect form, fit, function or appearance and those specified in MIL-STD-1492 for dress shirts and Table VIII.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

1. First article inspection (see 4.2).

2. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article inspection. First article inspection shall consist of the examinations and tests specified in Table V. The first article inspection shall be unacceptable if the requirements in Table V are not met.

4.2.1 First article samples. Unless otherwise specified in the procurement document, first article samples shall be provided. The sample size will be specified in the procurement document. The sample unit shall be one shirt and the lot shall be expressed in units of shirts.

TABLE V. First article inspection

Inspection Requirement Paragraph Verification Materials and components examinations

3.2.1.11, 3.3.1, 3.3.2.1, 3.3.2.2, 3.3.3, 3.3.4, 3.3.5, 3.3.6.

Table VII, 4.4.1.1, 4.4.1.2

In process inspection -Visual and dimensional examinations -Permanent crease

3.2, 3.4.2, 3.4.2,1, 3.4, 3.6, 3.7 3.2.1.12

4.4.2, 4.4.3 and 4.4.4

4.4.1.1

End item inspections:

-Visual examination

-Dimensional examination

3.2, 3.4.2, 3.4.2.1, 3.5, 3.8 3.7

4.4.3 and Table IX

4.4.4

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall consist of the examinations and tests specified in Table VI. The presence of any nonconformance to Table VI shall be cause to reject any production lot.

TABLE VI. Conformance inspection

Inspection Requirement Paragraph Verification In process inspection

-Visual and dimensional examinations

-Permanent crease

3.2, 3.4.2, 3.4.2,1, 3.5 3.6, 3.2.1.12

4.4.2, 4.4.3 and 4.4.4

4.4.1.1

End item inspection:

-Visual examination

-Dimensional examination

3.2, 3.4.2, 3.4.2.1, 3.5, 3.8

4.4.3 and Table IX

4.4.4

4.3.1 Conformance inspection samples. Sampling for conformance inspection shall be performed in accordance with ASQ Z1.4. The sample shall be one shirt and the lot shall be expressed in units of shirts.

4.4 Methods of inspection.

4.4.1 Material and component verification. Materials and components shall be verified (see 4.2) in accordance with the requirements of Table VII.

TABLE VII. Material and component verification

Component Requirement paragraph Verification 1/ Basic material 3.3.1 NCTRF PD 04-06 Sew-in interlining 3.3.2.1 A-A-59992 Buttonhole interlining 3.3.2.2 4.4.1.2 2/ Thread 3.3.3 A-A-50199 Buttons 3.3.4 A-A-59994 Yoke/Collar Lining 3.3.5 A-A-52106 Permanent Creases 3.1.2.12 4.4.1.1 Labels 3.3.6 MIL-DTL-32075

1/ The material or component shall be evaluated according to the test methods and requirements in its respective document.

2/ A certificate of compliance shall be submitted and will be acceptable for the stated requirement.

4.4.1.1 Permanent crease testing. Shirt lots shall be tested as specified in paragraph 4.4.1.1.1 and 4.4.1.1.2. The sample unit for each specified test shall be one shirt selected at random from the end item lot. The test specimens shall be cut for testing from each shirt. A single result of failure in any of the specified tests shall be recorded as a lot failure. Shirt lots shall be tested as specified in paragraph 4.4.1.1.3 and the sample unit shall be one shirt selected at random from the end item lot. The test specimens shall not be cut for testing from each shirt. A single result of failure in any of the specified tests shall be recorded as a lot failure.

4.4.1.1.1 Permanent crease resistance tests. The shirt samples shall be evaluated for permanent crease resistance to dry heat (3 exposures) in accordance with AATCC TM117 at a minimum of 400 degree F and perchloroethylene solvent (3 exposures) in accordance with AATCC TM132.

4.4.1.1.2 Permanency of crease test. The permanent crease test specimen shall be soaked for 30 minutes in water containing a minimum amount of suitable wetting agent to thoroughly wet out the cloth. The temperature of the water shall be 165 (± 5) degrees F. The wet out specimens shall be removed without squeezing and shall be air dried or dried at a temperature not exceeding 180 degrees F, while laying flat on an absorbent surface such as paper hand toweling or kitchen type tissue. The wet out and dried out specimens shall be compared with the unwetted sample prepared in the same manner. The sharpness of the crease on the test specimen shall not be less than that of the unwetted sample. Results shall be reported as “pass” or “fail”.

4.4.1.1.3 Permanent crease appearance (initial). The permanent creases for the finished shirts shall be evaluated in accordance with AATCC TM143. The crease appearance for the finished shirts shall be a scale rating of 3.0 (± 0.5).

4.4.1.2 Buttonhole interfacing. The buttonhole interfacing shall be tested as specified in Table

VIII.

TABLE VIII. Buttonhole interlining requirements

Component Requirement paragraph Verification Color 3.3.2.2 Visual 1/ Weight 3.3.2.2 ASTM D3776 Fiber content 3.3.2.2 AATCC TM20A Fabric construction 3.3.2.2 Visual 1/

1/ One determination shall be made from each sample unit and the result shall be reported as "pass" or "fail".

4.4.2 In process inspection. Visual and dimensional examinations shall be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to determine whether construction details which cannot be examined in the finished product are in accordance with requirements specified in Section 3. Materials and components, which can be classified as having defects in accordance with MIL-STD-1492 for dress shirts and Table IX, shall be removed from production.

4.4.3 Visual examination. The end item shall be visually examined for compliance to 3.2 and

3.8. The shirt shall be examined for defects in shade, design, material, construction, and workmanship. The defects shall be classified in accordance with MIL-STD-1492 for dress shirts and Table IX.

TABLE IX. Additional defects

Defect Point Value

a. Buttonhole. Uncut, or partially cut, poorly cut; ragged edges, i.e., yarns or thread ends on inside of buttonholes not trimmed to less than 1/4 inch, or basic fabric not caught by buttonhole stitching

1. One or more but less than 3

2. Three or more

b. Button.

1. Buttons on left and right pockets not horizontally aligned with the second front closure button

c. Permanent Creases.

1. Omitted, not as specified, misaligned, crooked, silicone not in crease line, wavy, angled, or not positioned vertically straight. Number of creases not as specified, creases on front, pocket and flap do not create the appearance of a single continuous line, silicone crease not 1/16 inch (nominal).

2. Application of permanent creases:

(a) Bending over after setting pockets and flaps or joining seams

(b) Any staining, strikethrough or bleed-through onto basic fabric

(c) Evidence of flaking, decomposition, failure to retain crease, cracking, not in crease line, missing resin, voids, not uniform application, excessive resin, cracking, evidence of flaking

3. The crease shall not bend over after setting pockets and flaps.

d. Buttonhole side interfacing visible above top buttonhole. 1

e. Buttonhole side interfacing not caught in buttonhole stitching. 1

f. Barcode.

1. Barcode label omitted or not readable by scanner, human readable interpretation (HRI) omitted or illegible, not visible on folded, packaged item,

2. Causes damage to the item.

g. Appearance

1. Buttonhole placement not in accordance with marks on pattern

2. Extra line of stitching on undercollar from collar point to edge of collar

3. Hemstitching does not match overedge hem shape

4. Pocket buttons and 2nd shirt button not in horizontal alignment

5. Underarm seam not pressed out

6. Buttonhole side interfacing not under (or attached through buttonhole) i.e.

not serving intended purpose in buttonhole area.

7. Insecurely tacked at shoulder.

8. Underside of collar is visible on finished side of shirt

9. Extra stitching on pocket

10. Turn back uneven at shoulder

11. Shirt front top corner seam not on edge.

12. Two rows of pocket flap stitching (that is one row of stitching on top of the other)

4.4.4 Dimensional examination. The finished shirt shall be examined for conformance to the dimensions specified in 3.7 and in Tables II, III and IV. Any dimension not within the specified tolerance shall be classified as a defect. The lot size shall be expressed in units of shirts. The sample unit shall be one shirt.

4.4.4.1 Method of inspection. Measurements A, B, C, D, E, F, G, J, and K shall be taken with the shirt fully buttoned, laid flat, and in a relaxed condition. Measurements H and L shall be taken with the shirt unbuttoned, laid flat, and in a relaxed condition. Measuring instructions for Tables II, III and IV refer to Figures 1 through 4.

A. Chest - Twice the measurement taken across the front at the base of the armholes from folded edge to folded edge.

B. Waist - Twice the measurement taken across the front at the third button from the bottom of shirt, from folded edge to folded edge.

C. Back Length - Measurement shall be taken along the center of the back, from center back collar joining seam to the bottom of the shirt.

D. Yoke Width - Measurement shall be taken across the back along the base of the yoke from sleeve seam to sleeve seam.

E. Yoke Depth - Measure shall be taken from center back at collar joining seam to bottom edge of yoke.

F. Sleeve Length - Measurement shall be taken from base of the armhole (junction of seams) along inseam to bottom of sleeve.

G. Sleeve Bottom Opening - With sleeve laying flat, twice the measurement from underarm seam to folded edge of sleeve along the base of the sleeve opening.

H. Collar - Measurement shall be taken along base of collar neckline edge from end to end.

J. Side Seam - Measurement shall be taken along side seam from base of the armhole to the bottom of the finished hem.

K. Bottom - Twice the measurement taken across the bottom of the shirt from folded edge to folded edge in a straight line.

L. Collar band lining, length - Measurement shall be taken from finished end to finished end of collar band along neckline seam.

M. Collar height - Measurement shall be taken at center back from neckline seam to collar edge.

N. Collar points length - Measurement shall be taken from collar point to neckline seam.

P. Pocket depth - Measurement shall be taken from top center of pocket to bottom center of pocket.

R. Pocket, width - Measurement shall be taken from side pocket edge to side pocket edge.

T. Pocket flaps, width - Measurement shall be taken flap from side to side at any point.

U. Pocket flaps, length at center – Measurement shall be taken from top edge of flap to bottom point of flap, at center of flap.

V. Pocket flap, length at sides – Measurement shall be taken from top edge of flap to bottom edge of flap at side of flap.

W. Collar lining, height - Measurement shall be taken from neckline seam to top of finished collar band at center back.

Y. Sleeve hem width - Measurement shall be taken from bottom edge of sleeve to hem stitching line.

AA. Shirt bottom hem - Measurement shall be taken from bottom edge of shirt to stitching line.

AB. Pencil pocket, width - Measurement shall be taken from finished folded edge to finished folded edge.

5. PACKAGING.

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of materiel is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES.

6.1 Intended use. The shirts are intended for wear by male Navy personnel as part of a service uniform.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Procurement documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this purchase document.

b. Type and sizes required (see 1.2).

c. National stock number

d. Applicable Government patterns. (see 3.4)

e. When first article inspection is required (see 3.1)

f. Number of first article inspection samples (see 4.2)

g. Name and address of the first inspection facility; and the name and address of the Government activity responsible for conducting the first article inspection program

h. Packaging required (see 5.1)

i. Specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2).

j. Inspection conditions.

k. Conformance inspection and acceptable quality limits.

6.3 Information requests. For access to information such as patterns, drawings, standard shade samples of cloth etc. go to Defense Logistics Agency, Troop Support, Clothing and Textiles Directorate website for their Specification/Pattern/Drawing Request form, https://www.dla.mil/troop-support/clothing-and-textiles/industry-support/spec-request/.

Complete the request form and then submit. Requests to use equivalent materials and/or components or to make changes to the pattern should be sent to the contracting officer for approval by the military service.

6.4 Subject term (key word) listing.

Material, polyester/wool blend Tropical https://www.dla.mil/troop-support/clothing-and-textiles/industry-support/spec-request/

Interlining Permanent creases Yoke

Preparing activity:

Navy-NU

Custodian:

Navy-NU

J

FIGURE 1. Shirt, Man’s, Short Sleeve

K

FIGURE 2. Shirt, Man’s, Short Sleeve

FIGURE 3. Shirt, Man’s, Short Sleeve