Tunic SPEC.pdf

FNSlPD 96- I 3 January 16, 1997

TUNIC, MATERNITY

7 I ii s prchase description is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department o t' Defense.

I . Scope. This purchase description covers the requiretnents for a maternity tunic made of a pcl yester and wool blend fabric. The tunic is intended for wear by female military personnel.

2. Classification. The tunic shall be of one type in the following sizes:

Schedule of sizes

Extra Small 2 Small 4-6 Medium 8- 10 Large 12-14 Extra Large. 16-18

3. SALIENT CELAk4CTERISTICS

3 1 Description. The tunic shall be sleeve!ess, V-neck, wit11 two side seam pockets and two front pr ,:lcess seams which form pleats below the bustline The neck and armholes shall have facings i,. :h fused interlining. The back closure is by a slide fastener. The finished tunic shall be pressed s:;:doth and flat. Reference figure 1.

3 : Stitching. All lockstitching shaIl have 10 - 14 stitches per inch; overedge stitching shall halve 3 - 10 stitches per inch. Shoulder, side and center back seams shall be pressed open and flat. The r;;, rns joining side fronts and center front shall be topsti tchcd 1!4 inch gauge through zlI seam -

,. : wances from shoulder seam to top of pleats. The ccr,tsr Trent shall have t \ x~u TUWS o f r - stirching, 114 inch gauye, horizontally across the top o f t ht: pleats The 11echiine and armholc ms shalI be raise stitched on the facings. The f ic inss dla!: L i t tacked ID !he outeis!~ell cf

FSC 84 10

tciic at side seams and front pleats. The identificatiodinstructiodsize label shall be stitched on ail four sides to the left back neck facing, 1 2114 inch from the center back seam. The bottom edges of the neck and armhole facings and all raw edges shall be finished with an overedge stitch.

The bottom hem s h d be blindstitched and hished with hem tape.

3.3 Material

3 ? 1 Basic material. The basic material for the tunic shall be a polyester/wool serge, Green shade 2243. The finished cloth shall conform to the requirements listed in Table I below.

TABLE I - PEYSICAL REOULREMENTS

1 #eight based an 56 inch width -

2 Samples shall be conditioned as directed it1 AS13 I-D 1 775

3 - rest for colorfistness for acid and alkaline soIulivn . ~ h ~ 1 1 epp::,l.

. - ~ V h c n a color change equal to Step 4 on the G r q 5;alc i s e i !dent in either sa~nple being :valuated or the standard sample, exposure shatl b= cor: tinccd for a n additional number of lours equal to the number of hours at which the colo: cl*ar:sc was apparent. Specin~e~ls ~ t h i c h

Test Method ASTM-D3776 Opt. C

11 2/ - Certificate of Compliance

Certificate of Compliance

Certificate of Compliance

ASTM-D3775 2/

ASTM-D5034

AATCC 135

ASTM-D 1424

FED-STD-191 #2811

AATCC 132

AATCC 8

AATCC 15 31

AATCC 16, Opt A $1

AATCC 61-2A 51'

Characteristic Weight (oz./linear yd.)

Yarns per inch (min.)

Breakjng strength (min.)

Dimensional Stability pH Colorfastness to:

W et/d ry c I eaning Crocking Perspiration Light

/ o o d

Requirement

10.5 to 1 1 .O

77 to 83 percent 17 percent (rnin.)

SingIes

2/2 right hand twill

Warp - 65 Filling - 55

Warp - 160 Ibs.

Filling - 140 lbs.

Warp - 2 . 5 percent Filling - 2.5 percent

Warp - 6.0 Ibs.

Filling - 6.0 lbs.

5 . 5 - 8,5

(min.)

Class 4 Grade 3 Class 4 Class 4 do not show a color change until SO W s shalI be returned to the machine for a total exposure period not to exceed 140 hours.

5 : The laundering cycle shall be 30 minutes and the temperature of the container and it's contents -shall be maintained at 100 +4 F (38+ 2 C). Only the stain on the wool fibers of the color transfer ~10th shall be evaluated.

3 3.2 Interlining. The interlining for the neck and armhole facings and the reinforcement piece s!~alI be a nonwoven fusible interlining cloth. The fusible shah have a thermal bonded non-woven substrate. The polyarnide adhesive shdl be evenly applied in a suitable weight. The fusible shall ~t righ 1.7 - 2.6 oz-lsq. yd. The minimum breaking strength shall be 3.0 Ibs. machine direction and 2 0 lbs. cross machine direction when tested as specified in ASTM D5034. The minimum bond st I cngth (per inch of width) shall be 221splits initial and 1 8/splits after 20 Iaunderings when tested a; jpecified in Fed. Std. 19 1 test no. 595 1 I / . The color of the fusible shall be grey. The fusible c l ~ t h shall not shrink or elongate in excess of 1.0 percent in either the warp or filling direction \< +en tested as specified in AATCC 96, Option Vc 2/. A certificate of compliance shall be s,, brnitted for all requirements and the Govenlment resen es the right to inspect such items to det ermine the validity of the certification.

I .! SpIits means that during the test, the fusible materi a1 cannot be removed from the outer shell. -- 'rhis will cause the fusible material to split from itself ra ther than separate from the outer she]].

2 ' Sample size shall be 22 inches by 22 inches with 18 inch benchmarks, 6 inches apart. Use -

:frying procedure (D), or samples may be dried using a rhermostatically controlled circulating oven 2210 - 2300 F until dried. The sample shall be allowed to cool for 5 minutes, sprinkled -with water to permit damp pressing, and allowed to stand in this condition for 5 minutes. The ,lampened specimens shall be pressed with a flatbed press as described in AATCC 96 Section i .2 , or a hand iron as described in AATCC 96 Section 5.10, at a temperature of 275O - 3000 F.

Section 7.4 of AATCC 96 shall not apply.

1; 3.3 Pocketing. The pocketing cloth shall be black polyester twill or plain weave cloth c,,t-~sisting of 47 to 100 percent polyester and the remainder (if any) cotton, with a minimum of 70 y.:;ns/inch warp and 45 yarnslinch filling. The weight of the cloth shall be 3.0 - 4.0 oz./sq. yd.;

t h t breaking strength shall be 60 - 70 Ibs. warp and 40 - 45 lbs. filling when tested as specified in .-IhTM D5034. The cloth shall show "good" colorfastness to perspiration and wet/dry cleanjng

Ihm tested as specified in AATCC 15 (the test for coIc7rf~stness for acid and alkaline solution .it:.:ll apply) and AATCC 132. A certificate of compliance shall be submitted for ail requirements a:-i3 the Government reserves the right to inspect such items to determine the validity of the c L . iification.

.i : 4 Thread. A cotton soft finish thread shall be used tbr seaming. The thread shnil be spun 1.; ~n combed cotton and shall be 1 1,023 to 2 2,400 yards per pound, 3 ply, with a minimun~ I- aking strength of 1.8 Ibs with 5 determinations per samplc unit when tebted accordirlg to

.' .Phi D2256. The thread for at,crcdye stitching sh;ill he co:ton, 14,173 to 16,535 yards per

I: ~ n d . 3 ply, with a minimum brcahng strength of 1 . 5 I:,s. :i ith five deter~ninations per sample I,. , r n h c n tested according to ASTM D2256. The rl;re,ids hail be dyed Olive Drab, shade T-1, le K o tlIi203. artd shall show "good" colorfas t r ; ;~~~ 70 la!.:i~!ering (3 cycles; dried after c a i h c i cle), light, perspiration and wetldry cleaning when tested according to AATCC 61-34 AATCC 1 I. (option A), AATCC 15, and AATCC 132, respectively, The color of the dyed cotton thread sh;lIl match the standard sample when viewed under filtered tungsten lamps which approximate an r ficial daylight having a correlated color temperature of 75 00 k200K with illumination of I bO 220 foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent Ia~i~plight at 23 00 22OOK. Certificates of compliance shall be submitted for all requirements and t lw Government reserves the right to inspect such items to determine the validity of the CL, I-tification.

3 .; 5 Finishing tape. The tape for finishing the bottom of the tunic shall be a rayon, flat weave tape, 112 to 5/8 inches wide. The weave shall be plain or 212 herringbone hi11 with one reversal of rwill in the center of the tape. The color of the tape shdl approximate the shade of the basic mr~terial.

3 .; 6 Slide fastener. The slide fastener shall be non-separating, non-reversible, automatic or can1 Iock, size LS (commercial no. 4), with a short pull tab. The chain, slider and stops shall be brass ard furnished by the same supplier. The tape shall be cotton, synthetic, or a combination of both, ar:d shall have a minimum width of 7/16 +1/8 inch. The Iength of the slide fastener shall be 22 inches for all sizes. As an alternate, a polyester or nylon coil fastener shall be used The slide fahtener shall have an automatic or cam lock, and shall be c.qual to commercial size no. 2. The cclnr ofthe slide fastener shall be shade Green, Cable No C.653 1. The dyed tape shall show 11~(30d" - coiorfastness when tested as specified in M T C C 6 1 - 3 4

3.4 Labels

3 -1 1 Identification/instmctiodsize label. Each tunic shall have a white, commercial type, cc-m~bination identificationlinstructiodsize label. The label inscription shall have a minimum font sizt: of 10 points, and shall show "good" colorfastness tu laundering when tested as specified in AATCC 61-3A. The label shall include the following information:

Nomenclature: Tunic, Maternity Fiber Content: 8354 Polyester/ 17% IYool (Example) Size: Medium (Example) Stock No.: 841 0-00-000-0000 (Exarrlpl 2 ) Contract No.: SP0 100-00-0-000 (Example) Name of Contractor:

LAUNDERING INSTRUCTIONS

Machine wash, warm. Line or tumble dry. Wash darks separately. If touch-up is desired, use cool iron. Do Not Bleach. May be dry cleaned

3 1.2 Labeytap;. Each tunic shall be individually barcoded. The barcode label shall be clearIy legible and readable by a scanner. The barcoding element shall be a I3 digit national stock number 0. The barcode type shall be a medium to high code density and shall be located so t h a t it is completely visible on the item when it is folded andlor packaged as specified and so that i t causes no damage to the item.

3 5 Patterns. The Govemment shall furnish a complete set of graded patterns. The pattern provides for a seam allowance of 1 inch for side seams and center back seam and other seams as indicated on the pattern. The government patterns may be used to create the contractor's working pntterns, however the design and measurements of the patterns shall not be altered in any way, wirh the exception of minor modifications to accommodate automation.

3.5.1 Pattern parts: The component parts of the tunic shall be cut fiom the material specified in accordance with pattern parts indicated in Table 11:

TABLE ll - LIST OF PATTERK PARTS

3 b Finished measurements. The finished tunic shall conform to the measurements in Table TI3.

_AT-.y dimension that is not within the established tolerance shall be classified as a defect. Tunics sil;ill be measured lying smooth and flat.

Material Basic material

Interlining

Pocketing

1 Size Bust (A) ( Backlength(B) 1

Nomenclature of pattern parts Center front Side front Back Center front neck facing Side front and armhole facing Back neck and armhoIe facing Center front neck facing Side front and arrnhole facing Back neck and armhole facing Front peak reirlforcernent Pockets

Cut parts

Extra Small SmaU

40 - 1 28-1/2 42 i 29-112

(.-I) Bust - Twice the measurement taken with tunic back cIosure closed, across front of tunic from folded edge to folded edge at pit of armhole.

(13) Back length - Measurement taken from the top of neckline to bottom edge of tunic.

4. Regulatory Requirements. The offerer/contractor is encouraged to use recovered materials to the maximum extent practicable, in accordance with paragraph 23.403 of the Federal Acquisition ReguIation (FAR).

5 . QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

5 . 1 Product conformance. The products provided shall meet the d e n t characteristics of this pcrchase description, conform to the producer's own drawings, specifications, standards, and qr:ality assurance practices, and be the same product offered for sale in the commercial market T hi: Government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance.

5 2 Market acceptance criteria. The item offered, or a generic equivalent, must have been sold to the commercial market or to the Government.

5 3. Visual examination. Each tunic shall be examined for the defects listed below.

E X ~ A T I O N hlLterial and w or-kmanship i I

I

I

DEFECT

Component part omitted, not cut as specified, distorted, full, tight, or twisted;

any part of tunic caught in any unrelated row of stitching

Hole, cut, tear, smash, burn, drill hole, run, thin place, dye streak, color not as specified, misweave, knot or slub

Any finished measurement not as specified

Permanent fold, pleat, or crease

Side seam pockets: pocket opening not uniform in size by 1/2 inch or more, out of horizontal alignment by more than I inch

Seam: puckered, distorted, pleated, waxy, twisted, irregular or open, loose or tight stitch tension, broken or missing thread or stitch, needle chew, visible mend, edge or raised stitching sewn too close to edge resulting in damage to cloth, seam allowance not as specified, raw edge, not pressed as specified

Tachng stitches visible on outside 13f finjshed tunic

3: omitted, burned or s~c rc ! -~cd , -. gloss, wrinktes, creases

E:CAhmATION -blsterial and

DEFECT

Slide fastener does not mesh properly, slider binds, catches, sticks or disengages fiom coils, fastener not the type, style, or size specified, slide fastener tape not completely caught in stitching, tape set on too loose or too tight, causing bulge, twist or fullness on outside when fastener is closed

Backs uneven at neck closure by more than 114 inch

Slide fastener welts not uniform in width, overlapping, do not cover slide fastener when closed, interfere with operation of slide fastener

L 1 Fusible interlining: bubbling, delamination, bleed through I Silade I Shade variation within a part or between parts I

I I Thread color not as s~ecified 1 Spot, stain, thread ends not trimmed or removed

Rancid odor Omitted, incorrect, illegible, misplaced, not attached as specified, or stitched through printing; bar-codes not scannable or readable by scanner; human-readable interpretation (HRI) on1jttt.d or illegible; bar code not visible on 1

5 , 4 Warranty. The item offered shall include the standard warranty given to the commercial n1,;trket beginning with the date of delivery of the indi\;idual item.

P zka 'n t gy g

5 :i Acceptance criteria. Acceptance criteria shall be as specified in the contract or purchase u r , ier.

folded, packaged item; bar code sau ses damage to the item Any item not packaged in accordance with the contract or purchase order

6 . -. The preservation, packing and marking shall be as specified in the contract or p:; :chase order.

7. NOTES

7 Sources of Government documents. Copies of military and Federal documents are available f r . :n:

Standardization Documents Order Desk Bldg. 4D 700 Robbins Avenue Philadelphia, PA 191 11-5094

7 3 o o r c e of non-~ovemment documents.

AATCC Test Methods - Applications for copies should be addressed to:

American Association of TextiIe Chemists and Colorists P.O. Box 12215 Triangle Park, NC 27709-22 15

ASTM Test Methods Application for copies should be addressed to:

American Society for Testing and Materials 100 Ban Harbor Drive West Conshohocken, PA 1 9428-2959

Preparing Activity :

DLA - CT

FIGURE 1 . TUNIC, MATERNITY