Maternity Skirt SPEC-PD-96-11.pdf

FNSPD 96- 1 1

November 13, 1996

PLiRCHASE DESCRIPTION

SKIRTS, MATERNITY

T li.; purchase description is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

I . Scope. This purchase description covers the requircrr~ents for maternity skirts made csf a pr)l\,ester and wool blend fabric. These skirts are intended for wear by female military personnel.

2. Classification. The skirts shall be of one type in the fi,lluwing sizes:

Schedule of sizqs -

Extra Small 2 Small 4-6 Medium S-! 0 Large 12-1 J Extra Large IG-I S

3. SALIENT CHARACTERISTTCS

3 1 Description. The skirt shall consist of a one piece t iun t with a knitted nylon cloth stretch 13;: tlcl inserted across the upper front and a two piecc back with waist darts. The skirt shall have a f i l l 1 elastic waistband, and shall be unhemmed. Hern tinisl~ing tape of sufficient length to cover the ski 1-1 hem shall be shipped with each skirt.

comments (recommendations, additions, deletions, clarificatiotls, etc.) and any data u !11ch may be of use in improving t h i s document should be addressed to: Defense Personnel S~ ippor t Center, Clothing and Testiles Directorate, A ~ t n LIP SC-FNSC, 2800 South 20th Street, PA 19145-5099.

A\1SC NIA FSC 8410

D I STRJBUTION STATEFLIENT A. -- Approve(/ijt. pzrhlic ~-r!lenw; drstribu lion i s rn~limrfcd, 3 .2 Stitching. All lockstitching shall have 1 0 - 14 stitches pcr inch; overedge stitching shall have 8 - I 0 stitches per inch. The top edge of the identificationiinstructiodsize label shall be caught in the waistband turulel stitching, centered at the back of'skirt. All raw edges shall be f nished with an overedge stitch. The waistband tunnel stitching and all seam joining shall be accomplished ~i r h a lockstitch. Side and center back seams shall be pressed open and flat; the seam joining upper and lower front pieces shall be topstitched 114 21 /8 inch below seam, through all seam allc~wances.

3.3 Material

3. :: 1 Basic material. The basic material for the skirt shall be a polyester/wool serge, Green shade 2243. The finished cloth shall confortn to the requirements listed in Table I below.

TABLE I - PHYSICAL REQI!IHEMENTS

11 \Veight based on 56 inch width. -

2: Samples shall be conditioned as directed in ASTM-D 1 776.

31 Test for colorfastness for acid and alkaline solution shall apply. -

Characteristic Weight (oz.Ainear yd.)

Fiber content Polyester Wool

Yarn ply

Weave

Yarns per inch ( f i n . )

Breaking strength (min.)

Dimensional Stability (m ax.)

Tearing strength Wn.)

Wet!dry cleaning Crocking Perspiration

Requirement Test Method

10.5 to 1 l .O ASTM-D3776 Opt. C

77 to 83 perccnt

Certificate of

Warp - 65 Filling - 3 5

Warp - I60 lhs.

Filling - 1 40 Ibs.

Warp - 2.5 percent Filling - 2.5 percent

Warp - 6.0 lhs.

Filling - 6.0 Ibs.

5.5 - 8 . 5 (min I

Class 4 made -3 Class 4 Class 4

4.0 giwd

Compliance

ASTM-D3 775 21

ASTM-D5034

AATCC 135

ASTM-Dl424

FED-STD- 1 9 I #28 1 1

I

AATCC 132

AATCC 8

AATCC 15

AATCC 16, Opt A 4.1

,4ATCC 61-2A 51

4i When a color change equal to Step 4 on the Gray Scalc is evident in either sample being -evaluated or the standard sample, exposure shall be continued for an additional number of hours equal to the number of hours at which the color- change was apparent. Specimens which I lo not show a color change until 80 AFU's shall be returned to the machine for a total exposure period not to exceed 140 hours.

51 The laundering cycle shall be 30 minutes and the t csuperature of the container and it's contents -shall be maintained at 100 +4 F (38+ 2 C). Only the stain on the wool fibers of the color transfer cloth shall be evaluated.

3 ; 2 Knitted cloth. The cloth for the front stretch panel shall be an interlock knit, tubular.

str~t~htype nylon cloth conforming to Green shade 2245 The cloth shall weigh 6.5 to 8.0 oz./sq.

yd. when tested according to test method ASTM-D3 776 Option C and have a minimum of 3 0 W ~ I It: yams per inch and 3 5 courses per inch when tested according to test method ASTM-D3 887.

Snr n ples shall be conditioned as directed in ASTM-D 1 776

3. : 3 Thread. A cotton soft finish thread shall be used for seaming. The thread shall be spun fr1'171 combed cotton and shall be 11,023 to 12,400 yards per pound, 3 ply, 40 Tex, with a ml I llrnurn breaking strength of 1.8 Ibs. with 5 deterrni nations per sample unit when tested according to ASTM D2256. The thread for overedge sti~sl~ing shall be cotton, 14,173 to 16,535 y~ rds per pound, 3 ply, 30 Tex, with a minimum breaking strength of 1.5 Ibs. with 5 iitrcrminations per sample unit when tested according to ASThI D3256. The threads shall be d j crl Olive Drab, shade T- I . cable No. 66203, and shall show "good" colorfastness to laundering (3 cycles; dried after each cycle), light, perspiration and wetldry cleaning when tested according to ..MTCC 6 1-3A; AATCC 16 (option A); AATCC I 5 ; and AATCC 133, respectively. The color of the dyed cotton thread shall match the standard s a ~ t ~ p I e when viewed under filtered tungsten lamps which approximate artificial daylight having a correlated color temperature of 7f?I0 +200K with illumination of 100 .t20 foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sa~j:ple under incandescent lamplight at 23 00 i200K. Certificates of comp1iance shall be suli~nitted for all requirements and the Government resenres the right to inspect such items to determine the validity of the ce~~ification, 3.; J Finishing tape. The tape for finishing the bottom uf the skirt shall be a rayon, flat weave tall?, 112 to 5/8 inches wide. The weave shall be plain or 212 herringbone twill with one reversal of 1:vill in the center of the tape. The color of the tape shall approximate the shade oft he basic In, 11 crial.

3 . < 5 Elastic waistband stabilizer. The elastic for the waistband shall be made with a ~n~.,t~ofitament nylon filling and textured nyloil warp. The ~ v i c j t l l shall be 1 inch and the elongation sh;~ll be 100 510 percent (1 8 inch sample with 5 inch bench marks and extended to its ultimate ell-lngation). The core elastomer shall be a cotton covcrcd spandex and the finished "elastic" shall be 170th launderable and dry-cleanable.

3.4 Labels

3.4 1 ~entification/instmctiodsize label. Each skirt shall have a white, commercial type, ccl~ nbination identificatiodinstructio dsize label. The label iriscription shall have a minimum font sixc of 10 points. and shall show "good" colorfastness to I aurldering when tested as specified in A -1 TCC 61 -3A. The label shall include the following information:

Nomenclature: Skirts, Maternity Fiber Content: 83% Polyester/ 1 7% Wool (ExatnpIe) Size: Medium (Example) Stock No. : 84 10-00-000-0000 (Example) Contract No. : SPO 1 00-00-0-000 ('Example) Name of Contractor:

LAUNDERING INSTRUCTIONS

Machine wash, warm. Line or tumble dry. Wash darks separately. Do Not Bleach. May be dry cleaned.

3 . . I 2 m. Each skirt shall be individually barcoded. The barcode label shall be clearly Icgi\)le and readable by a scanner. The barcoding element shall be a 1 3 digit national stock nu ~nber (NSN). The barcode type shall be a medium to high code density and shall be located so tlinr it is completely visible on the item when it is folded andior packaged as specified and so that it ::;]uses no damage to the item.

3.5 Paftems, TheGovernment shall furnisha comyletc set ofgraded patterns The pattern gc~~i.rally provides for a seam allowance of 518 inch, with 3 inches provided for hemming. The gc)~ ernrnent pat! ems may be used t n create the contract or's working patterns, however the design : ~ t l ~ l measurements of the patterns shall not be altered in any way, with the exception of minor mr>! lifications to accommodate automation.

3 . 5 1 Pattern parts: The component parts of the skirt shall be cut from the material specified in accordance with pattern parts indicated in Table II:

TABLE 0 - LIST OF PATTERN PARTS

Material Nomenclature of attern arts Cut arts

Basic material Lower front

Knitted cloth U er front anel

3. n Finished measurements. The finished skirt shall cc~r~form to the measurements in Table ]TI.

.-In!- dimension that is not within the established tolerence shall be classified as a defect. Skirts shall be measured lying smooth and flat. 4 B, C, and tl refer to locations on Figure 1 .

FNS/PD 96- 1 1

TABLE III - FlNISaED MEASlJ REMEnTS (JNCHES)

(11 - B) Waist - Twice the measurement taken in center of waistband from folded edge to folded edge.

(C j Hips - Twice the measurement taken on the skirt 7 ir-iches down from top edge of waistband fro111 folded edge to folded edge.

(17 Length - Measurement taken at center back from top edge of waistband to bottom edge of unhernrned skirt.

4. Regulatory Requirements. The offerer/contractot- is encouraged to use recovered materials to r Ile maximum extent practicable, in accordance with paragraph 23.403 of the Federal Accluisition Regulation (FAR).

5. ()l!ALITY ASSURANCE PROVISlONS

5 1 Product conformance. The products provided shall meet the salient characteristics of thi s pi~r.chase description. conform to the producer's own draw-iny s, specifications, standards, and 1~11 .I [ity assurance practices, and be the same product offered for sale in the commercial market.

Thc Government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance.

5.2 Market acce~tance criteria. The item offered, 01- a generic equivalent, must have been sold to thc ~:ommercial market or to the Government.

5 ; Visual examination. Each skirt shall be esamined for the defects listed below.

DEFECT

part omitted, not cut as specified, distorted, full, tight. or twisted;

Hole, cut. tear, smash, burn, drill hole, run, thin place, dye streak, color not as specified, misweave, knot or slub i wci~ kmanship any part of sldrt caught in any unrelated row of stitching

I Permanent fold, pleat, or crease 1 i Any finished measurement not as specified

I ES.UENATION I DEFECT I

mend, edge or raised stitching setvn too close to edge resulting in damage to 1 rirh, seam alouancr not i s specified. raw edge, not pressed as specified

Malerial and workmanship

Waistband: twisted, not uniform in width by more than 118 inch, elastic caught in waistband stitching, elastic twisted or rolling

Seam: puckered, distorted, pleated. wavy, twisted, irregular or open, loose or tight stitch tension, broken or missing thread or stitch, needle chew, visible

Hem finishing tape omitted or inadequate length to cover entire hem

1 1 Darts twisted or puckered, drill holes exposed, darts uneven in length by 1 i2 I Shilde I

I

I Rancid odor Omitted, incorrect, illegible, misplaced, not attached as specified, or stitched through printing; bar-codes not scannable or readable by scanner; human-readable interpretation (EM) orni t t ed or illegible; bar code not visible on inch or more Shade variation within a part or

Cl canness k- I

Thread color not as specified Spot, stain, thread ends not trirnn~cd or removed

5.4 Warrantv. The item offered shall include the standard warranty given to the commercial rna r ket beginning with the date of delivery of the individual item.

packaging

5.5 Acceptance criteria. Acceptance criteria shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

folded, packaged itetn; bar code causes damage to the item Any item not packaged in accordance with the contract or purchase order

6. Packa~ing. The preservation, packing and marking shall be as specified in the contract or pu 1 chase order.

7. NOTES

7.1 Sources of Government documents. Copies of mili t a y and Federal documents are available t h l ~ l :

Standardization Documents Order Desk Bldg. 4D 700 Robbins Avenue Philadelphia, PA 19 11 1-5094

7.1 Source of non-government documents.

AATCC Test Methods - Applications for copies sl~uuld be addressed to:

American Association of Textile Chemists and CoIorists P.O. Box 12215 Triangle Park, NC 27709-22 15

ASTM Test Methods Application for copies should be addressed to:

American Society for Testing and Materials 1 00 Barr Harbor Drive West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959

M I LTTARY INTERESTS:

C~~..todian:

avy - MC

Civil Agency Coordinating Activity:

GSA - FSS

Preparing Activity:

DLA - CT

FRONT

NOTES: 0 SEE TABLE Ill

@ DIM. A - REWQD

DIM. B - STRETCHED

SKIRTS,