PD319A MDW Mens Overcoat.pdf

paa7005 Rectangle paa7005 Rectangle

3, JQ t:..~ sides c?f wo:::l, f iner wf.th double -:apped, Gzuble st$ t ched seams, 4 . Posit ion P i n i n g nn wan1 Tfner, face to face, wi't.h the bottom of the l i n i n g aligned with marks indica ted or?. p a t t e r n and the top of the Lining towar the botfm of t he l i n e r . S t i t p h l i n i n g to l i n e r 114 inch from bottom of l i n i n g .

5 . Turn up l i n i n g to 2 % ~ finlshed posft-Lon and with edges even baste l i n i n g to Ifner, 1/16 to 118 inch from edge, around armholes, around neck, across shoulders and along f ron ts , fuming bellows a t bottom of l i n i n g . The side seams of the l i n i n g shal ke tu rned toward t he back. The lining s h a l l lie smooth and flat without twists or fullness.

WO.

c , Construction C :

I. Posi t ion the rayon l i n i n g pieces on the

' outside of f r o n t s and backs of the wool liner and w i t h edges even, baste together, 1/16 to 118 inch from edge, with t h e bottom of the l i n i n g turned in 318 inch to 1/2 inch a t each end.

2. With the 318 t o 1/2 inch seam sflmance 'turr,!e3 in, stitch the bottm of the l i n t n g t o t he l i n e r 1/36 to 118 inch from t he turned-in edge. The i f n i n g s h a l l l i e smooth and flat without twists or

I

3. Joln s i d e s of l i n e r (with l i n i n g attachedj w1.f.h double-lapped, double-s*ltched seams. The front and back bottom edge of t h e l i n i n g s h a l l not 'I:

staggered at side seams 'by more than 1/8 inch.

SSa -1 SSa - - 1 SSa-1

SSa -I SSa -1 SSa -1

AMX RE Form 413 1

18 Fabruay 1965

AMXRE F r m 423 10 Fmbrusq 1365

I1 trm edges and s t i t c h w i t h one or two rows of s t i t c h i n g (see operation 1.n). 1 301 Make belt loops and belt keeper (see .operat ion I. e) . -

a. Fold stripping in ha l f lengthwise, face to face, 301 and seam 118 inch from raw edgea Turn to outeide . I

- or .+ c . Fold stripping with the raw edges abutted or r overlapped a t center and etitch with a covering stitc

- or -

b. Fold stripping w i t h both edges turned in and t h e turnediin edges abutted a t dCnter and stitch with a covering s t i tch .

d . Press stripping with eeam in center of atripping. I e . C u t the four belt loope of sufficient length to measure 2-1/2 118 inchee (measured frm folded edge to folded edge when attached to overcoat (see operation 28).

f f . Cut belt keeper of suff icierrt; length to wrap anound bel t and to comply with operation 12. I Make b e l t . - I a . If two piece be l t for sizea 42 and larger (see operation 1.~1, s t i t c h the two pieces together. I lo1

1 b. RYSS Beam open. I or EFp -2 c . A t marks, as indicated by pattern, position t h e belt keeper acroas the wfdth of the b e l t . Fold belt in half lengthwise with the belt keeper enclosed within the f o l d an8 s t i t c h the full lengkh. On the ftnished overcoat, the belt keeper s h a l l not

SSa -1

SSa-1 301 i

I f

I-'

I I

13.

I AMXRE

YAWFACT URIW~ OCLmATltlWa REQUIMY EMTS

TABU f1 constrict the b e l t and when measured flat on belt shell not be more than 1/4 inch wider than the belt.

The belt shall ftniah 2-1/8 1/8 inches wide.

a. With the joining seam spread open,positlon belt on interlining with the joining seam of belt al ighed with the center of t h e i n t e r l i n i n g and s t i t c h one of the seam allowances to the interlining.

e . Shift positibn of belt on f n t e r l i n i n g so t ha t bel t and interlining are superinposed and etitch acroes end (without keeper) of belt.

t. Trim corners ; t u r n bel t to outside; work out seam a t end of belt and edge stitch both s i d e s and the finished end 112 inch frm edge. Do not catch t he belt keeper in edge s t i t c h i n g . The finished belt shal .

be smooth and f l a t , g . Thread unfinished end of belt through buckle; fold back 2-1/2 & 1/4 fnches, turn in raw edge and stitch with two rows of stitching 1/4 f 1/8 inch apart. The fintshed turn-back shall meaaure 1-112 to 2-112 inches long.

h. Rees belt.

Make ahoulder loops (one right and one l e f t ) . -a . Fold loop lengthwise and seam,

b. Press seam open.

10 Fobruary 1WS I c . Baste tnterlining to seam allowance of loop.

Form 423 mmt T v n

- 1.

Machine or

Bna

MAY m l t l t cnm

TYPE

~ ~ a e -2(a)

OSf -1 an8

~ ~ a e - 2 ( b )

E d - 2

SSa -1

I

I rrltcrm

PER

MCH

10 -16

10 -16

12 -15

12-16

, - 7

12-16

10-16

IltLW

'10 - 3

50-3

0 silk

0 silk

50-3

50 - 3

T H R E A D aOBBl" wl?

U W E R

50 - 3

50-3

0 s i l k

0 silk

50-3

50-3 gj m w r 'Q *, AMXRL Form 125 10 Pobrwq 1W5 worn UAWUCMtUR# OCElUtlQCll moiMR€m n

10 Febrwry 1965 r m

I r.

g, 5 .

when st i tching l i n i n g to neck facing (see operation 49). The l abe l shall not be off center by more than 114 inch on the f in ished overcoat.

b. Join neck fac ing to f ront facing.

c . Bind back edge of facing and bottom of neck f a c i n with shoulder seams spread open and w i t h r a w adg 6 of binding turned in. The blnding hall f i n i s h 1/4Tto 5/16 h c h wide.

d. Resa spread-open seams; press front facings together, face t o face, wtth shoulder seams superim-posed. Do not crease center of neck facing*

Asamble l in ing and f aclngs . -

H A W I f ~ T C b J t m w?E

SSa-1

BSc -1

U d - l t a . Turn in raw edges on both sides 03' bellows stripping and precreaae. The f i n i s h e d wldth sha 1 be 1-1/8 f 1/8 inches.

b. C u t bellows stripping of sufflrient length to werlep bottan of l in ing 2 L 114 inchea end t o extend to m t w of overcoat.

c . With the seam allowances of l i n i n g turned back, position l b i n g on wool facing (face of l intng o back of facing) 1-318 inches in from bound edge ! f front, witk the bottom h m e d edge of lining matched w i t h the notches on faclng; position t he back folded edge of bellows on wool facing (face of bellows on back of faclag) 1-3/8 inches in from bound edge of racing. Stitch l in ing and bel lma to aascmbled facin 1/16 inch frm turned-back edges of bellows and l i n i n The s t i t ch ing shall a t a r t 1 to 1-112 inches f'rm raw edge of Ilning a t shoulder On the finished overcoat

2)

AMXRE Form 423 I

9 t r T m

?LA

ImCW

12-16

12-16

12 -16

T l l R I h O -

-OLE

50-3

50-3

50-3

#nbW or w e l l

50-3

$0-3

50-2 distor2;ion.

d . Press the seams smooth and flat.

t h e finished seam.

b. Bind center seam allowance of r i gh t Snack frm neck edge t o bottom of >lent. Bind ven t of left back acrcss t o p of curve t o hottom of v e n t . Bcth ratr edges of blnding s h a l l be t u r n e d in. The binding sha l l f t n i s h 114 to 5 / 1 6 i n ch w i d e , t u r n seam toward kop sleeve and raise s t i t c h 112 inch from j o i n i n g seam. Tne pattern provides a seam allowance of 5/16 inch for top sleeve and 5/16 i n c h plus lj2 inch outlet for back sleeves.

t h e f i n i s h e

AMXRE Fwm 423 10 Fmbruary 1965

The braid shall not be staggered more than 1/16 lnch a t underam seam.

c. a c e sleeve wigan across sleeve and w i t h the bottom edge 1/2 to 3/4 inch below turn-up notches1 stitch to backarm and underarm seam allowances.

and prese bottom of sleeve. Press backam seam.

of the braid in the s t i t ch ing , f . Press underam seam allowance open.

g . Bllndstitch t h e sleeve hem to t he wigan. The blindstitching shall not cetch the sleeve except a t underarm seame.

a . With the sleeve lining extending 314 t o 1 inch above the t op of the sleeve, tack t h e forearm and backarm seam allowances t o the respective seam allow-

AYXRE Farm 123 1

T A B U rI I 5 inches frun the bottom. The fullness of the l ining shal l be evenly distributed. There shall be no t w i s t or distortions of sleeve l in ings or sleeves.

b. Turn in bottom of sleeve lining and b l i n d s t i t c h or fell to eleeve. The bottom of t he l i n i n g s h a l l be 314 to I - l /b inchee from the bottom of the finished sleeve. The aleeve lining shall not be shod .

I

I Make inside hanging pockets and attach combination or ident i f $cation end i n s t r ~ c t i o n label . -a . P o d t i o n t he cmbinhtion or iden t i f i ca t ion labe l on the gabardine part of the inside hang@ pocket so that on t he f in i shed overcoat it will be centered (f 1/2 inch) and the bottom of the label s h a l l 'ce no less then 2 inches from bottom of pocket, Center e ins t ruct ton labe l , when separate, not more than 1 2 label may be caught in t he ~ t i t c h i n g at bottom of t-inch above the iden t i f i ca t ion lebel. Stitch labels on all four -'s ides. The t op of the Ident i f icat ion instruction l abe l .

b. S t i t ch the two p a d s (gabardine and cotton or polyester/cotton c lo th ) of the hanging pockets to-gether around bottom and along back edge to top o pocketing, 1/4 inch from edge! t u r n to i t s f i n i s h f d posi t ion and s t i t c h 3/8 inch from edge. The suede side of the c lo th pocketing s h a l l be on t h e inside of t h e ftnished pocket.

c . Notch bottom of cut opening of cotton (or polyes-ter/cotton) pocketing, turn in back edge of cut-openi l / 4 inch and s t i t c h t o the gabardine forming a facing on the gabardine p a r t of pocket f o r t he hand opening.

AMXRE Form 423 10 Fmbrumry 1%5

Hand or 301 or Ma chine

(hand t y p ~ f e l l i ng )

301 and a , Position 114 i nch stay tape on underside of lefi back with one stde OF the tape al igned with the fold-line of the vent. S t i t c h tape, held slightly taut , w i t h one row of stitching 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the cdqe of tape neaarer the fold- line.

22.

b. Overlap l e f t back m r i g h t back, 1/2 inch in, i s indicated by pattern, s t i t c h rceoasrthe vent a t point i ad lca ted by pattern and up back to neck 1/8 inch frm edge of leFt buck. The pattern provides a aeam allowance of 118 inch for left back and 1.18 inch plus p l u s 112 inch outlet for right back.

I

Make h c k of overcoat, -c . Fold left vent on fold-line and edge s t i t ch I/ Inch frm edge.

d. lZlm back-seam toward left back and raise stit I t h e edge s t i t ch ing on vent shel l not be staggered.

112 Inch frm Joining seam. The raise s t i t ch ing and

NOTE: The edge s t i t c h i n g on vent may be a continua-tLon of the raise atitching of back aeam. When the opesation is performed In t h i s manner, the bobbin thread looped around the vent shall be trimmed.

I e . Bl5ndeti tch 'left vent t o overcoat from t op of curve to buttm;.of overcoat. The b l i n d s t i t c h i n g be under the binding.

f. Diagonally tack t op of vent a t end af back join-ing-seam wlth e rectsngulsr box pattern 1-114 to 1-1/2 inches long and 1/4 to 318 inch wide. One end of the

Hand or

AMXRE Form 423 10 F.bruory 1965 box shall extend to, but not beyond, the center back joining seam. On the flnished overcoat the vent open-ing shall. measure as follova :

I Coat size Len&th (tolerance 1 112 inch) X -Short 14 Short ReguJar Long Extra Long g , Sew 114 inch stay tape on amholes of back, frm s i d e seam-line of back to 1 f 1/2 inches from raw edge of shoulder, holding tape sufficiently taut t o provide 3/8 t~ 98 inch fillnese.

h. Sew cloth atay (see operation 1.m.) on back o neck. The ends of the stay shall not extend onto shoulder Beam allwance and the st i tching s b l l t o 3/15 inch from neck edge.

l a . St i tch cloth atays (see operation 1.m. ) on f r o n t s , 1/8 to 3/16 inch frm edge, posi t ioned as follows :

I 1. On shoulders - 112 inch from raw edge of armhole to 1 4 2 Inches f r o m raw edge of neck.

I 2. On armholes - 112 inch frm raw edge of shoulder to' lower armhole notch.

I b, S t i t c h 114 inch stay tape on f ron ts 1/16 to 118 inch from edge, posit ioned aa follows:

AMX RE Fwm 123 10 Febrwry 1 1 5

SSaa -1 SSaa -1

SSaa -1

SSaa -1

SSaa -1

UQ.

24.

AMXRE

WAMJFACTURUIO -R&TmI R L O W E M U m

I. On gorge 318 inch from edge of shoulder to 7/8 f ~ / 8 inch from h p e l notch.

2. On armholes - fran s i d e aeam line to 314 to 1 Inch above lower armhole notch, Set pockets.-a . Fold hand opening fac lng (see operation 1. h)l in half lengthwise and position on outside of front w f t l the raw edge (2 ply ) al igned with the cut- l ine, i n d i -cated by pattern, and with the ends ePtended equally beyond the cu t- l ine . Stitch t o front 1/4 inch frm raw eagee. The s t i t ch ing ahal l not extend beyond the pocket cut-1Fne.

b. Position pocket welt on outside of front w i t the ti raw edge abutting the raw edge of'hand-opening f ng and stitch to front.

c. Cut pocket opening and tongue notch ends. Turn hand opening facing to the fnside and stitch d m with two rows of stitching, one row 1/16 to 118 inch f ran edge of opening and one row 1/16 to 118 Inch fran back folded edge of factng.

d . Raise stitch front through welt (see operati n I b. above) 1/16 inch frm joining seam, w i t h the earn turned toward the front of overcoat.

e . St i t ch the unfinished side of the cut-opening of t h e hanging pocket (cotton part) to the seam allowance of welt -to-front joining -seam 5/16 i nch f'rm raw edge

f. Sti tch the two p'liea of pocket (cotton and wool) together along front and across top, cloeing pdket.

Fwm 415 s .

S S ~ Z - l ( r ) 10-16 50 - 3

LSk-2 shows

$0 - 3

$0-3

0 s i l k

50 - 3

50-3

10-16 -- - -

12 -16

50-3

50-3 silk

50 -3

50-3

SO -3

S s-, Q f inlahe!.

~ e a m lSq-2(b

SSa -. 1

SSa -1

12-16

12 -16 w to 110.

26.

27.

28.

AMXIIE

10 Pobrwry 1%5

TABU% TI

C . Trim excess i n t e r l i n ing at armhole, neck and gorge, as necessary.

d . Insert shoulder pads in groper position between chest piece and f e l t piece and tack around curved edges, through fel t , shoulder pad and inter l ining.

Pad . lapels and tack pockets . -

a. Fad each l a p e l to interlining v i t h not l e ss than t e n raws of blindstitchin$; two of these rows s h a l l be along the s i d e edges of theT,bPtBler&trsy. Fullness s h a l l be equally Bistribut~d betveen rows in order to roll l a p e l .

b. Blindstitch the top end f ront edge of h n g i n g poclcets to interlinings with two rows o f stitching, One row on or near edge and t he second row adjacent to t he first.

J o i n s ide seams. -

Overlap back on fronts, 112 inch in as indicated by pa t t e rn , and s t i t c h 5/16 inch from edge of back.

T k n seams toward back and ratse s t i t c h 1/2 Inch frm Joining seam. The pattern provides a seam ellowance of 5/16 fnch for back and 5/16 inch plus 1/2 incb out le t f o r fronts.

A t t a c h belt loops (see aperatinn 11). -a . Position bel t loops as indicated by pa t te rn with the tops of a l l loops al igned (f 1/8 inch) aad ~ t i i c h to o v ~ c o a t so that the s%itching is not v i s i b l e on outside of loop and as follows:

Form 423

;11 d

P wm

Hand or MachLne w#b 8 f J t m

TYm

~tltw ?a m, 103 or 306 or Hanh

103 or 306 or Hand

301 and

301 or Bartack

, o r 301 or

'(line tack s%-10 S S ~ - 1 0 SSm-10

SSm-2

SS~-2

SSm -2 f ~ s - 2 ( e ) fSs -2Ib) fSbJ-1 ISbJ -1

Ubj-1

6-8 "

6-9 2 -4

6-8 6-8 2 - 4

12-16 12-16

12-16 28 per har tack 28 per t ack

T l l a E A B - -En

70-2 70-2 '(0-2

70 -2 70-2 7 ~ - 2

30-3 0 silk

5 0 - 3 50 -3

50-2

7cl-2

I

70-2

3@-3 0 silk

50-3 50-7

50-3

W r

WO.

31.

32.

33.

g g J u muwrr*tuww rwrrlrr-am - 'PU rr in the finished overcoat.

d. Trim $he bottom of overcoet, matching the r i g h t end left back a t vent and clip piping- from side seams and vent to f a c i l i h t e binair&.

e. Trjm interlining back fran top and front edges of l a p e l and front edge of fronts suff ic ient ly far to essure that the interlining will not be caught in the facing -to-front j oining-seams (see operation 33) . The interlining at bottm of front may be cu t diagonally.

Bf nd bottm of overcoat. - Bind t h e bottan raw edge of overcoat turn-up with one raw edge of the binding turned in. The outside of the binding shall f i n i s h 1/4 to 5/16 inch wide on the, outside of the f inished hm.

F i t and baste facing (assembled'to l i n i n g l a -

F i t facing to the outside of fronts and baste along the breakline and the top and front edges of the lapalc Baste along front edge of facing continuing across the bottm edge.

Join facing to fronts with tape.-

a. Witch the fronts and facing6 together 114 inch fran edge through the 318-inch or 1/2-inch 6tay tape, stitching k-m lapel notch, across top of lapel, down front and across bottom of facing. The tape shall be positioned on the i n t e r l i n i n g side of t h e f ronts 118 ,to 3/16 inch from edge. The s t i t c h i n g may continue around the overcoat using the turn-up mark ind icated on t h e pattern as a gage. The tape shall terminate at m

Rend or . Machine

- m lllltlllll rn

BSb-1

3Sab-1

#lTC)IOI r# #C#

12-16

10-12

I , THREAD - mmr Wtl

50-3

50-3

10 Fmbruary 1965

NO.

34.'

IAWUFACTURIIIO OPERATBOWS RLOUlRmLm

T ~ G TT

the back edqe of fac ing .

b, F e l l inside edge of tape t o i n t e r l i n i n g .

c . Press the f r o n t ed;e of fronts rernovin.7 any full-.

nesB.

d . Remove all basting s t i t che s , t r i m lower f rona corner of facin3s and corner of lapels and notch l a p e l s for turning.

e . Spread open tb,e face- to -front jo in ing seam from top of l ~ p e l t o bottom of overcoat end press.

f. mrn fac ing and l i n i n g to f i n i s h e d position.

Baste f r o n t s and hottom edges. -a . Baste along edge of lapels and fronts, workin?

t h e f acing-to-front j o in ing - seams nut to the e d ! ~ e .

Contlnue basting along t h e turned-hp bottom edge. A second row of s t i t c h i n g may he placed along t he hem.

The f i n i s h e d bound hem s h a l l measure I t o l , - l / b inc\e wide and the ends of t h e vent s h a l l he even, F . Baste diagonally frmn l a p e l breakline t o corder of ' l a p e l snd along brealr l ine ma i n t a i n f ng fullness of f ac ings t o allow l a p e l t o roll.

r. Baste the length of t h e front facing as close as possible to t h e facing-to-ltning and bellows-to-facin:

joining-seams s t a r t i ng from 3 to 4 tnches below should seams to bottom of facing and placing the fullness over the chest .

.Cnm tm

103 o r Hand

Hand or Machine r

Hand or Machine

Hand or Machine er

#Am U1D I t lTCWIW

TYCE

SSa -1 SSm -1

S T I T C m

PER

~mcn

4 -6 h - - 6

T -- 50 - 2 .;::, . 7

) l f i E A D

WLR

m m r m A

W w.

3 5

36.

IrurWM- m n m 8 - I Table I1

Tack fecings to i n t e r l i n i n g s and bellows to overcoat..

a . Turn back the lfning and b l i n d s t i t c h or fell seam al~owsnee of lining (facing linfng assembly) to in te r l in ing s t a r t i ng from 3 to 4 inches below shoulder seam to bottom of linfng

b. B l i n d s t i t c h or f e l l back turned In edge of bellova to pocket and front of overcoat frm top) to bottom. The s t i t c h i n g shall not be through the hanging pockets nor be vis ib le on fionts of overcoat.

F i t and baste l i n i n g to overcoat .-

a. Baste t h e lining to the overcoat aroxnd the a m holes, along shoulders of f r o n t ~ ~ f o m i n g shouljte i- pleats as indicated by pattern, and along shoul ers MacF.ine

37.

38, tlSL

Hand or Machine

Hand or 301 or

Hand or and neck of back catching pleat (see 9.b): and a g side seams. The outeide fo lded edge of the shou a'er pleats shall face t h e armholes.

b. Trlm gorge of facing allowing correct seam allowance for gorge seam. T r i m excess l i n i n g and tn te r l fn ing a t shoulders and armholes on fronts and excers l i n i n g around armholes, shoulders and neck of backs.

doin shoulders ., I a . Jofn shoulders, evenly distributing the fullness of back parts. Do not catch i n t e r l i n i n g s in t he seam:.ng.

b, Press aeams open holding seams short.

Set sleeves and shoulder loops.

a . Set the sleeves to the overcoat, matching t h e n n b F Qiil lnaaa arnnn P

SSa 1.

SSa 1

AMXRE Fwm 423 wamm STlfCHIW m mtcn# Fm m

2 minimum 4 6

6 . 8 6-8 6 -8

30- 3

30-3

12 16

12 .-16

30 3

30 3 f llUObL

C s i l k 0 s i l k 0 s i l k

W R L A O m e # rn -ma

0 s i l k

AMXRE Fwm 4 3 10 Fobrunry l%S

AMXRE F a m 423

-7

F* l a 5

U and pressing of front edges (-see operation 42).

c . mr end of buttonholes.

Fell and tack lining.- I a . Turn fn the seam allowance of sleeve lining and fell t o armholes w l t h the PulLness evenly distributed, catching the shoulder pad in the stitching. The sleeve lining may be stitched by machine frm backarm seam to .Sfide.ramTse&m.:crD. sleeve.

b. Fell lining and overdoat as fol lows: I

1. Shoulders of l i n ing if optional machine

~ t i t c h i n g WB s not used.

2. Bottan of lining fronts to the t op of bellows across the full width.of bellows.

3 . Bot tom beck edge of facings to the hem, the full width of hem. The stitching may be continued along the hem binding for a short distance. I

4 . Bottom end of right-vent to the hem, the ful width of hem. The s t i t c h i n g may continue along the hem binding for a short distance.

- 1 5 . Bottom of left vent the f u l l width of hem an continue across t h e f u l l width of the vent.

Machine or

Hand

Hand

OX

and Hand

Hand or Machine

(hand type felling)

M I X R E Form 423 '- 7

10 F J r u a y 1 1 5

Tack the ends of the l i n i n g s ide seams t o the overcoat side seams through the lining hems. The tacks ah811 be 3/8 t o 112 inch long and shall -not be visible on outside of overcoat, Clean overcoat.- I a . T r h a l l ends of stitching and remove loose threads.

b. Remove spots, atafna and shade mark t i ckets . I c . Remove a l l visible basting thread on inside and out side of overcoat. I Reas overcoat. - I

Fintehed appearance, - The overcoat shall be presse throughout with 0 heated pressing iron or praasing machine of a type suitable to obtain t he desired shape and appearance. When the overcoat I s not .In t h e process of pressing it shall be placed on a cmt hanger. 1 a , Press front edges am bottom of overcoat on an edge presser. I

b. Press collar on an ulster-type c o l l a r machine or if not available on a regular overcoat collar machine (under no conditions shal l collar be pressed f l a t ) as follows:

I I. Press right and l e f t gorge seam to crease 'of I col lar . . .

2. Press collar on breakline, assuring t h a t

Rand

AMXRE Form 423 '-7 10 Fmbrumy 1965

AMXRE Form 123 10 Fmbruory 1%5

Ma:,k f o r position and &w on b u t t o n s . -

a. Mark t!!e location for sewing on buttons as fol low f I. Three 45 line m e t a l buttons on right f r o n t t o correspond to eyelet end of h t t o n h o l e s on l e f t front and as i nd ica t ed hy p a t t e r n , and t h ~ e e 45 line metal but tons on 1e.R front. The buttons on t h e !rlgh front s h a l l Ce 6 / 1/8 inches from the f ron t edgd.

The measurements shall be taken from the center of the bu t tons . The huttons or: the rigllt f r o n t s h a l l n o t be out of hol.izonta1 alignment with t h e b u t t o n s c the left f ? ,on t , The 03rercoat s h a l l l i e flat when t h e overcoat i s buttoned with t h e shanks of t h e huttons through the eyelet ends of the hutton'.loles.

2. One )+>-line m e t a l button a t t o p of right f ron t to correspond to the eyelet end of the 1 1 k t 0 1 1/1! inch cu t length buttonhole i n l e f t l apc l . ,The f ront s h a l l l i e flat and the co l la r ends a t neck edge s h a l l not be spread apar t mo?e t h a n 1 inch nor m ~ e r l a when buttoned.

3. A 25- , l tne m e t a l bu t ton on each shoulder to correspond to t h e eyelet end of 3uttonhole in each shoulde:: loop. The shoulder loops s h e l l lie f l a t when hut toned. !

I i

h. Sew buttons on marks as ind ica ted eFove through all p l i e s except t h e lower front buttons which sha l l n o t be through the wool p l y of the h a n ~ i n g pockets.

The top button on left f ron t s h a l l have a by-line anchor button (see 3.2.17.3) on the ins ide of overcoa

I whf ch shal l be t t g h t l y shank wrapped 1/4 i n c h . The ende of the threads on hand sewn buttons s h s l l be tacked off. The anchor button when e n ~ a g e d with.

10 Frbruory 1965

3.9 Finiehed measurements.- The f in i shed measurement sha l l conform t o Table TI1 and Table n.

TABLE I11 - Overcoat Measurements in Inches Tolerance

Sizes 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 Plus or Minus

1/2 Breast

~ c k length 9 -X-Shod -Short -Regular -brig -X-Long

Sleeve length -X -Sh~rUt;

-Short -Regular -Long -X-Long

B e l t length 41

1/ Half Breast. - With overcoat buttoned and liner removed, measure from folded edge to folded edge in line with the top button.

Back length. - Measure Prom undercollar felled-seam down center back to bo%tm of overcoat.

2/ Sheve leng2;h.- Measure underam aeam from armbole seam to bo-btm of sleeve.

k/ Belt length.- Measure frm end of belt to fold on bar of buckle.

TABm IV - Liner Measurements in Inches

Sizee 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 Tolerance Plus o r Mfnus

Back length

- X-Short 32-314 33 33-1/4 33-112 1/2

- Short 34-1/2 34-3/b 35 3 5 4 4 35-112 35-3/4 1/2

- Regular 36-3/4 37 37-114 37-112 37-314 38 38-114 3 R - l / ~ 112

- Long 39 3 9 - 4 4 39-1/2 39-3/4 40 40-114 40-112

41-114 41-112 42-314 42 42-114 1/2

- X-Long 1 /2

Half Breast - Measure frm front bound edge to center o f back in line with base of armhole.

Back l e n g t h - Measure d m center of back from edge of s l ide fastener at neck t o hound bottom edge.

2-10 Workmanship. - The f i n i s h e d G-v.er.cuat shall con£ o m to the q-dal Ct j and grhde of produc t established by t h i s purchase desc . rLpf ion, The octzurence of de fec t s s h e l l no t exceed the applicable qua l i ty l e v ~ l s .

4, QUALITY ASSURANCE PRWISIONS

4.1 Responsibility for i n s p e c t i o n , - U n l e s s otherwise s p e c i f i e d i n t h e con-t l ~ c t or purchase order, the supplier is responsible for the performance of all i n s p e c t i o n requirements as s p e c i f i e d herein, Except as otherwise speci-f i e d in the c o n t r a c t or order, the supplier may use h i s own or any othe,r f ac iL i t i e s suitable f o r the performance of the i n s p e c t i o n requtrements speci -f i e d herein, unless disapproved by the Government, The Government reserves t h e right to perform any o f the i n s p e c t i o n s set f o r t h in the purzhase des-c r i p t i o n where such inspections are deemed necessary to assure s u p p l i e s and services conform to prescribed requirements.

4.1.1 Certificate of :.complltance.- When certificates of compliance are submitted, the Government reserves the right to check test such i t m s and det~rmine the validity of the certificate,

4.2 Inspect ion,- Sampling for inspect ion shall be performed in accordant-e with MIL-STD-L05, except where otherwise ind i ca ted hereinafter.

4.2.1 Component and material inspect ion,- In accordance with 4.1 above, componehts and materials shall be tested in accordance with all the require-ments uf referenced specifications, drawings and standards u n l e s s otherwise excluded, amend~ed , , modified or qualif ied in this purchase description or applicable purchase document. In addition, t es t ing shall be p e r f u m e d on the components listed in Table V f o r characteristics noted. Whenever ap-pl icable , t e s t s shall be conducted in accordance w i t h methods prescribed 2n FETl-STD-191. The sample unit shall be 1 yard f u l l width of rhe cotton cloth sheeting (see 3 . 2 . 8 ) and 1-1/2 yards of braid (see 3.2.12). The lots shall be expressed in yards. The l o t s shall be unacceptable if one or more saaple u n i t s fail to meet any test requirement splcified. All t e s t reports shall c o n t a i n the i n d i v i d u a l values used in expressing the f i n a l result, The sample sizes shall be as follows:

k t size 800 or less 801 ta 22,000 inc lus ive 22,001 and up

Sample size

TABLE V - Component t e s t s Requirement

Cornponen t Characteristic reference Test Method

C o t t o n sheeting Material identification 3-2.8 1200 1/ cloth

Weight 3.2.8 5041

Yarns per i n c h :

- warp

- filling Breaking strength:

- warp

- f i l l i n g

Presence of labile sulfur 3.2.8 2020

Colorfastness :

- wet-dry c l e a n i n g

1 U n l e s s otherwise s p e c i f i e d , a certificate of complianqe shall be s u M C t e d -and wilL be acceptable f o r t h i s requirement.

4 . 2 . 2 Process inspect ion .- Inspec t ion of sub-assemblies shall be made to ascertain that the construction^ details, which cannot be examined i n the finished product , are i n accordance with requirements spec i f i ed . Constructfon methods of sub-assemblies not in accordance with specified requirements shall not be considered acceptable.

4.2.3 Examination of end item,- The end item shall be examined f o r the defects l i s t e d in 4 . 2 . 3 . 1 through 4 . 2 . 3 . 3 . The sample unit shall be one overcoat and Liner.

NLABS PD 319k

4 . 2 . 3 . 1 General defects.-

Claqsif ica t iof i Major Minor

D e f k c cs -- A B

Pressing

a. Omitted:

- overcoat,

- l f n e r .

b . Lining of overcoat n o t pressed.

c . Armholes of overcoat n o t creased at armpits.

d . Breakline on collarof overcoat n o t creased as specified

e. Edges of overcoat bulky ( n o t pressed solidly).

f. Sleeve(s1 of overcoat creased.

g. Sleeve c a p ( s ) n o t blocked.

h. Bottom of sleeve n o t pressed

i. Bottom part of l a p e l (area from 2 to 4 inches below gorge t o bottom of l a p e l ) creased ( n o t roll pressed),

j. Burned or scorched.

k. Armholes stretched

1. f ressing impressions from collar, lapel( S ) , shoulder loopls) or pockets .

m. P r e s s i n g impressions of slide fastener on outside of overcoat. X

n. Gloss , wrinkle(s1, creasets) or basting thread or t i c k e t impressions.

o. Back p l e a t of l i n i n g not pressed full length of l i n i n g .

p . Belt n o t pressed.

NLABS PD 319A

Classification Defects Major Minor

Material d e f e c t s and damages a . Hole, cut, t ear , needle chew or exposed drill h o l e :

1 On outs ide :

- any.

2 . On i n s i d e (overall dimension in any direction):

- up to 1/,8 i n c h (inclusive).

- more than 1/8 i n c h .

b . V i s i b l e mend, darn or patch:

1. On outside of overcoat: - any.

2. 2 . On inside of overcoat or either side of l i n e r : - up to 1 / 4 inch.linclusive1 - more t han 1 / 4 inch.

c . Weakening defects:

I. Smash.

2 . Multiple float or loose s l u b :

- on outside G£ overcoat.

- on i n s i d e (overcoat, lining or either s i d e of liner).

d. Permanent crease in cloth (when crease is caught in seaming).

e. Unsight ly s l u b or shade bar!

- on outside of overcoat - on inside (overcoat, l i n i n g or either s i d e of liner).

f . Pulled or snagged threadCsl on lining of overcoat or liner.

Class i f i ca t ion

Defects Major Minor

Shaded parts

a. a t s i d e p a r t of overcoat shaded.

b. Parts of undercollar shaded.

c . Lining p a r t of overcoat {except sleeves shaded 1 .

d . Sleeves of overcoat l i n i n g n o t metchfng each other in shade.

e . Wool parts of l i n e r shaded.

f. Lining parts of liner shaded.

Cleanness

a. Spot or stain clearly noticeable:

- on outside of overcoat. - on i n s i d e (overcoat, lining or eifiher side of liner).

b. One or more shade tickets n o t removed.

c. Any shade marking visible on out s ide .

d. Thread ends not trimmed, or loose thregds n o t removed.

e. Bast ing threadls) v i s i b l e on outside or i n s i d e of overcoat or l i n e r .

f . Residue of soluble bast ing thread not removed.

Com~onent and assembly

a. Any component part or required operation omitted (unless otherwise c la s s i f i ed herein). X

b. Any component not as specified. X

ClassificatTon Defects Major Minor

A 0 ----

C u t t i n g

a. Any component part n o t cut in conformance with d i r e c t i o n a l lines indicated on pat t erns or in accordance w i t h s p e c i f i c a t i o n requirements.

b. Twill lines on any part of overcoat r u n n i n g from lower r i gh t to upper Left.

Seams and stitchinq

a. Accuracy of seaming:

1. Seam or component p a r t twisted, puckered or pleated (unless otherwise indicated here in ) . X

2 . Part of material caught in unrelated opera t ion or stitching:

- up to a distance of 1 / 4 inch (inclusive) X

- f o r a distance greater than 1 / 4 inch. X

3 . EndCs) of s t i t c h i n g when not caught in other seams or stitching, backtacked less than 1 / 4 inch.

4 . S t i t c h i n g overlappcng endls) of thread break less than 1 /2 inch.

5. Ends of a continuous iine of s t i t c h i n g cver-lapped less than three stitches on labels and box stitching or less than L/2 i n c h on all other machine s t i t c h i n g .

6 . Ends of hand felling not securely tacked ( tacked wi.th Less than three s t i . t . ~ h e s ? .

b. Gage of stitching and seam allowances:

1. I r regular , i.e.: unevenly gaged or corres-ponding s t i t c h i n g s n o t uniformly gaged (to be scored only when condition e x i s t s along major portion of seam).

Classif icatian Defects Major MLnar

A B

2 . Width n o t as specified or n o t w i t h i n range of gage specified or varies more than 1/16 i n c h when no range is s p e c if i e d .

c . S t i t c h e s , broken or missing:

L. All s t i t c h i n g except buttonholes and felling: - up to 1 / 4 inch <inclusive).

- more than 1 / 4 inch but n o t more than 1/2 inch. - more t han fl/$ inch.

- b I , . ,

2. Hand felling:

- u p to 3 / 4 inch.

- more than 3 / 4 inch.

3 . Machine felling: - o n e i n c h or more.

d . Skipped stitches (except on buttonholesl, or PI tunoff stitches:

- L/4 inch to 1 /2 inch Long ( i n c l u s i v e ) . - more t h a n 1/2 inch long.

e . Raw edge: - rraore than 114 inch long.

f . Seam a n d s t i t c h type: - seam type or stitch type not a s s p e c i f i e d .

g . Stitches per i n c h {to be scored only when c o n d i t i o n exists for a distance of more then half t h e length of the seam):

- more than maximum speci f ied.

- less than m i n i m m specif iad.

1. Loose t ens ion resul t ing in a loose seam.

2. Loose t ens ion (exposed loops of top or bottom threads) :

- for a distance of 1 to 2 inches (inclusive).

- f o r a dis tance of more than 2 inches.

NUBS PD 319A

Classificatios Defects Major Minor

3. T i g h t tension ( s t i t c h e s break when strain is a p p l i e d in the d i r e c t i o n of the seam). X

4 . Loose te.nsion on bartacks.

i. M a ~ h i n e blindstitching on overcoat hem caught to hem only:

- f o r a di s tance of one to t w o inches. - for a d i s t a n c e more than t w o inches.

j. Seam not worked out ta edge (when required) having a depth between f o l d s of 1/16 inch or more.

Edge stitch in^, loininn s e m l s l and bound edges (applying to overcoat and liner)

a. Fullness between edge stitching and edge of fronts, collar, shoulder loops, and vent, or fullness between raise stFtchi.ng and joining-seam of backarm seam( s) , s i d e seam( s 1 and center-hack seam of overcoat. X

b. Any seam(s) not turned in the di.rect-Ion spec i f i ed :

1. Sleeve, armhole, shoulder, side and center-back seams nf overcoat. X

2, All other seams cf overcoat l i n ? n g or liner.

C. Bound edgets) tight, f u l l , puckered, gathered, pLeated or wavy.

d. Mat~rial n o t securely caught in the binding.

e . B i n d i n g Less than 1 / 4 or more than 5/16 i n c h w:.de <measured on outside only).

Buttonholels) applyinn to position and workmanship -of a l l buttcnholes

a. One or more omitted or added.

b. Not s p e c i f i e d type.

c. Uncut..

d. Stitching not securely caught in fabric (stitches can be pulled away from fabric). X

e. Cimp omitted.

f. One or more broken or continuous skipped stitches.

g. End n o t securely tacked or barred. X

h. Bar at end misplaced, n o t serving intended purpose .

L. Purling cn t h e unders ide cf lapels or inside of shou1de.r loops or f r o n t s ,

j. Ragged edges.

k. Bulky appearance or a t i t c h e s not unffonn:

- f L O K ~ butt~nholel s) .! - shoglder loop(s1.

1. kirnber of stitches per buttonhoLe or bar not as specified:;

m, F i n i s h e d cbt-length of shoulder loop buttonhole less than 5/8 or more than 3!4 inch long. 1s n , I n s i d e edge of buttonhole e y e l e t on shoulder loop(s) less than 7 / 8 or more than 1 inch from F a i n t e d end.

o. Shrulder Loop buttonhole( s ) off center by more than 1/8 inch .

p . Fcnished cut- Length of l e f t and right front and lapel buttonhole(s) less than 1-1/8 or m o r e than 1-114 Inches long. X

q. I n s i d e edge of buttonhole eyelet(s1 on overcoat f r ~ n t s and lapels less than 718 15: more than 1 ini-h from f r ~ ~ n t edge.

r. IapeL b u t t 3 n b l e ( s ) less than 1-3/8 or more t k r a 1-5/8 inches f r o m top edge of l a p e l or 30t parallel with top edge of lapel.

ClassifLcation Defects Major MInor

B u t t o n ( s) (applicable to a l l buttons1

a. One or more omitted or broken.

b . P o s i t i o n of eagle: - eagle on front b u t t o n s not i n . . a n upright p o s i t i o n . - head of eagle not toward back or spread wings not parallel with shoulder seam on shoulder loop buttons.

C. St i t ch ing on one or more n o t locked a t end of cycle < tug at the Loose end of the thread, when accessible, to determine i f it will ravel).

d . Anchor b u t t o n on top ( i n s i d e of left front) not shank wrapped.

e . Anchor button shank wrapped less than 1 / 4 or more t h n 3 / 8 inch where shading is required.

f . Front bu t tons out of horizontal a l i g n m e n t by more than 1 / 4 inch.

g . Buttoncs) on right or l e f t front less t b n 5-718 or m o r e than 6-1/8 inches from front edge.

Labels and s i z e t i c k e t (appl icable to overcoat and liner labels)

a. Size, identification, instruction or cmnbination (if applicable), label m i s s i n g , incorrect or illegible.

b. Any label not s t i tched on all fuur sides.

c. Sti tching through the pr int ing of any label.

d . Any label n o t positioned as s p e c i f i e d .

N U B S PD 3 1 9 A

4 . 2 . 3 . 2 Detailed defects f o r overcoat.-

Outside of Overcoat (Overcoat may be buttoned on form)

Defects Classification Major Minor

Fronts

a. Right and Left front uneven in Length when overcoat is buttoned: - r ight f r o n t extending below left front. - r i g h t f r o n t more than 1/2 inch shorter than l e f t front.

I

b. Right and l e f t /ront uneven in length when t h e right f r o n t and left front are superimposed: - right f r o n t more than 1 /2 inch shorter than l e f t f r o n t . - left front shorter than r ight f r o n t . X

c. front!^) puckered or t w i s t e d . X

d. Right front overlap, below bottom button, swings to the r ight or left of the perpendicular by more than 3 / 4 i n c h when coat is buttoned.

e. Bottom of f r o n t curled outward when overcoat is buttoned. X

f. Blindstitchlng visible on outside of overcoat.

g. Faclng!sl exposed at bottom edge of overcoat: - up to L/8 inch in width iinclusivej. - more than 1/8 inch in width .

h. Facing exposed along edge of left front or f r o n t exposed beyond edge of either lapel for a dis-tance of 1 inch or more.

i. Back edge of facingcs) at bottom of overcoat not f e l l e d the f u l l width of hem or felling not secure.

j. l a p e l ! $ ) t ight or full. X

k. Lapels not uniformly shaped.

1. L a p e l steps unequal i n length by more than 1 / 4 inch.

rn. Lapel b u t t o n sewn so t h a t f r o n t does not lie flat, the ends of the collar spreads more than 1 i n c h or overlaps at neck edge when lapel is buttoned.

n. Top but ton of left f r o n t n o t sewn through a 45-line anchor button (on the inside of overcoat).

a. Any d i s t o r t i o n of f r o n t of overcoat when all buttons ( i n c Luding anchor) are bu tboned.

p. But tons (except the bottom front buttons) n o t sewn through a l l plies,

q. The bottom buttons sewn through the wool part of the hanging pockets. X

Pockets

a. Pocket welts out of horizontal alignment:

- 1 / 4 inch bu t not more than 1/2 inch. - more than L/2 inch.

b. Openings unequal in length or width by more than 1 / 4 inch.

c. Opening's) excessively full or t i g h t .

d . Tacking of back edge of facing, or slide fastener bellows stitching caught through pocket(s1 restri .ct ing use.

e. Top or bottom of weltls) bulky.

f . Excessive fullness between top s t i t c h i n g and edge of pocket welt(s).

g . I n s i d e rows of st i tching c los ing top and bot tm of welt n o t superimposed on the row of edge stitching.

C l a s s i f i c a t i o n Defects Major Hinor

h. a t s i d e and i n s i d e row of s t i t c h i n g closing top and bottom of weltls) not diagonal at ends of opening(s1.

i. S t i t c h i n g closing t o p and bcttom of w e l t l s ) not through hanging pocket.

j. Pocket stay tape omitted.

k. Stay t a p e stitching exposed on outs ide of welt.

1. Puckers or pleats at pocket welts. X

m. Any notch exposed at top or bottm of welt. X

n. Suede s i d e of cotton pocketing no t on the i n s i d e of pocket ( when applicable) .

Collar

a. Short, causing puckers on fronts or back causing coLlar to rise above crease line. X

b. Long, setting away from neck, or bulges along outer edge.

c. Collar s e t in a manner causing twisting or distorting of fronts or back.

d. Collar off center by 3 / 8 fnch or more at f ron t ends, with shoulder seams matched.

e End(s) of collar curled outward.

f . Ends of collar not unifam in shape or eize.

g . Top collar or undercollar twisted or excessive fullness in top collar or undercollar.

h. Ends of collars from neck edge t o wter egge varying in length by Bore than 114 inch.

H U B S FD 319A

Classf f i c a t l o n Defects Major Minor

i. Qiter edge of collar stretched (wavy effect). X j . Undercollar breakline less than 1-1/4 inches or more than 1-1/2 inches from bottom edge of undercol lar.

k. Lower edge of undercoLlar not enclosed with in felling stitches.

1. Top collar folds 1 /8 inch or more from cregsed undercollar.

m. Row of s t i t c h i n g forming breakline omitted. X

n. Center seam 1 / 4 inch or hwre but not more than 3/a inch from center of joining-seam and raise s t i t c h i n g of back.

o. Center seam more then 3 / 8 inch from center of j o i n i n g seam and raise stitchink of back.

p, Hanger omitted. X

q. Hanger loop less than 2- 1/2 or more than 3 inches long (measured along outer edge of loop).

r, Hanger loop spread less than 1-1/2 or more t b n 1-3/4 inches.

s. Hanger loop off c e n t e r by more than 1 / 4 inch. X

a. Any portion of seam n o t spread open. X b . Seam crooked. X

o. lnsecurety tacked. X

Defec ts Major Minor

Shoulder and shoulder Loops

a. S h o u l d e r s t w t s t e d or puckered. X

b. Shoulder p a d ( s l s e t too far forward or backward not serving intended purpose or causing twists, puckers or bulges on overcoat .

c . Shoulder padCs) n o t securely tacked t o armhole or to i n t e r l i n i n g at shoulder, d . Shoulder loop p o i n t s distorted.

e. Shoulder loops not unlform in shape or size,

f. Back edge of shoulder loop(s) less than 3/8 or more t h a n 5 / 8 inch from shoulder seam.

g . P o i n t of shoulder loop<sl beyond collar-s e t t i n g seem or more than l / 4 inch from collar- se t t ing seams.

h. S h w l d e r loopls) not smodth and f lat w+n button rests in eyelet end of buttonhole.

i Shoulder loop interlining( s 1 nor caught,. in edge stitching.

Armholes and sleeves

a. Sleeve- setting seam crooked.

b, Tape stitching on armhole(s) v i s i b l e on outside of overcoat.

c . Sleeve(s1 twisted.

d . Sleeve fullness not evenly d i s t r i b u t e d or misplaced.

e. Puckering on sleeve or on body of overcoat at sleeve-setting seadsl.

CLassif2cat ion Major Minor

Defects A B

f. Sleeve back arm seams an equal distance from shoulder seams by more t h a n 1 / 2 inch .

g . Sleeve(s1 n o t balanced or f r o n t of sleeves n o t hanging alike in relat ion t o the pocket opening by more than 1 inch .

h . Sleeve 1ining(s) less than 3 / 4 or more than 1-114 inches from bottom edge of sleeve.

I. P o s i t i o n of ornamental sleeve braid:

- l e a s than 2 - 7 / 8 or more than 3-1/8 inches from bottom of sleeve at underarm seam.

- horizontal distance from underarm seam to the gradual curve on top sleeve less than 2-3/8 or more than 2-5/8 inches. - point on t o p sleeve l e s s than 6 - 5 / 8 or more than 6-7/8 inches from bottom of sleeve.

- point on top sleeve less than 3-7/8 or more than 4-1/8 inches from back arm seam.

- junction of braid at underarm seam etaggered more than 1/16 inch

Back of ovexcoar

a. Back joining seam stitchtng'not extending across top of vent .

b. Left and right vent uneven in length by 1/4 inch or more:

- left vent longer than right vent; - right vent longer than left vent.

c . Length of vent opening, measured from bottom of box stitching to bottom of overcoat on o u t s i d e of left back:

Less than 13-1/2 14- 1 /4 15-1/2 16- 1 /2

More than L4- 1/2 15-1/4 16-1/2 17-1/2

Classif i c e t i o n Major Winor d . Edge of , lef t vent i r r e g u l a r or wavy. X e . 'Tape on l e f t v e n t set too tightly or too loosely caus ing puckering or preventing vent from lying srnoot.h and flat i n a straight line with back seam when vent is overlapped.

f . Tape s t i t c h i n g on vent exposed on outside .of vent.

g. Length of diagonal box at top of vent l+ss t b n 1-L/4 or more than 1-1/2 inches long 4 t h .

less than 1 / 4 or more than 3/8 inch .

h. End of diagonal box no$ extended to gr estsnding beyond c e n t e r back joining seam.

i. Half inch edge s t i t c h i n g on v g g epd & / a inch raise stitching on center back pegm etaggered.

j. Blind felling s t i t c h e s or indenfat$vv$ from felling s t i t c h e s of vent exposed on o u t a i d e of overcoat.

k. Bottom of righr vent n o t felled the full width of overcoat hem or bottom og left vent not fellrd the f u l l w i d t h of hem and cont f nued gcrom the full w i d t h of vent .

B e 1 . t and loops

a. S i z e 40 and smaller b e l t wde of two p d ~ e 9 .

b. P i e c i n g of b e l t n o t at buckle end of belt or v i s i b l e when belt is lpck lw i Gqs w n k .

c. Belt tyisted or fullness BeGwtpm rova of stitching.

d. B e l t buckle on right and of W,t,

e. Fr'ee end of b e l t misshapen.

f. Belt less than 2 o r more G h m $ l /4 &nccbea, wfde.

t, Classification

Defects - Major Minor

Belt irregular in wtdth by more than 114 inch . X

Turn-back over buckle bar less than.1-1/2 or more than 2-1/2 i n c h e s or not stitched w i t h t w o rows of s t i t c h i n g .

Edges of belt i r r egu la r .

Belt buckle defective:

- a f f e c t i n g funct ion .

- not affecting funct ion.

Belt keeper too tight cons tr i c t ing belt or measured 1 / 4 i n c h more than the width of the belt.

BeLt loops and belt keeper less than 1/4 inch or more than 3 / 4 inch wide.

Bartack(s1 or tack(s) belt loop(s1 less than 318 inch or more than 1/2 inch long or the s t i t c h throw less than 1/16 inch or more than 3/32 inch.

Length of belt loops less than 2-3/8 or more than 2- 5 / 8 inches wide (measured from folded edge to folded edge with loop flat on overcoat).

One or mote belt loops not p o s i t i o n e d as ' s p e c i f i e d .

One or more belt loops out of alignment at top of loops by more than 3/8 inch.

St i t ch ing attaching belt Loops Msible on out-side of loop.

Ends of b e l t loops from line of stitching to raw , edge mare than 1/4 inch long.

Side belt loops not stitched through s ide seams of overcoat or top of front loop6 not through interlining or bottom of front loops not stitched through hanging pockets or any belt loop s t i tched through overcoat lining. X

Class i f icatlvn D e f e c t s Major Mincr

0-rercoat hem ----

a. 31 indstttching v i s i b l e on out s ide of overcoat.

b. Irregular i n width by more t h an 1 / 4 inch.

c . T w i s t e d or puckered.

d . Less rhan 1 or more than 1-1/4 inches w i d e .

LinLan and i n s i d e of overcoat

a. I nsLde hanging pocket(s) not smooth and Elat.

b. Sleeve lining(sl t ight or short causing fullness or twist on outside of overcoat or sleeve Lining( sl twisted.

: Backarm seem of l i n i n g stitched to backarm Gem of bvercoat or underarm seam of lining stitched tu underarm seam of wercoat less than 3 or more than 5 inches from top or bottom of eleeve.

d . T a c k i n g of Lining aleeves to overcoat aleeves omitted.

e. Tacking of lining and sleeve seam allowaeccs, at underarm omit ted.

f . Outs ide f t l d e d edge of front shoulder plear(s) not faced toward armhole.

g , Center back p lea t 25 lining n o t faced toward left s2.d~: C when worn) .

h. Lining frontlsl or back twisted or t i g h t . X

1. Felllng of lining frontlsl t o interlining starting less than 3 or more than 5 inches from a b l d e r cr n o t continued to bottom of lining.

j. Bottom of f r o n t lining not felled to top of bellows the full width of the bellows*

Defects Hajor Minor

k. Side seams of Lining tacked to overcoat side seams ( through lining hem) for a distance less than 3/8 i n c h or more than 1/2 inch.

1. Tacking of lining side ssamlsl to overcoat s i d e seam(s1 v i s i b l e on o u t s i d e of overcoat.

m. Lining hem less than 1/2 or more than 314 inch wide,

n. L i n i n g hem twisted.

o. Bottom back edge of facing(a1 n o t felled t o overcoat t he full width of the hem.

p. Bellows strip less than 1 or more than 2 inches wide.

Slide fastener and overcoat Liner assembly

a. Size shown on l i n e r not same as shown on overcoat.

b. Slide fastener defective: - affecting function. - n o t a£ fec t ing func t ion .

c . Slide fastener separating p i n n o t on right facing of overcoat, d . Slide fastener p u l l tab not on outside (lined s i d e ) of liner when fastener is not assembled.

e. S l i d e fastener retainer not on right s i d e of liner (as worn).

f . Bottom end of scoops n o t equidistant from bottom of liner or .not equidistant £ram bottom of overcoat by mare than 1 / 4 inch.

Class i f i ca t ion Def 9, C s Major Minor g . Outside af inside of overcoat or liner t w i s t e d or d i s t o r t e d when s l5de fastener is engaged. X

h. F r a n t kdge of opened chain l e s s than 3/8 or more t h a n 1 1 2 inc-h from the b u d edge of overcoat fac iqg or back edge of chain nor adjacent to bound edge of liner.

i . S l i d e fas tener tapes s t i t ched too close to metal c h a i n not permitting s l ider to move freely . X

j. S l i d e fastener tapes s t i t ched too tightly or too Loosely causing waviness or puckering.

k. End of tapes not turned in 1 / 2 to 3/4 inch diagonally, or on the straight or not causht in both lines of s t i t c h i n g .

4.2.3.3 Detailed defects for-.-

Classi f icat ion Defects Major Minor

L i n e r -

a. Fronts uneven in length by mre than 3 / 4 inch with shoulder seams matched. X

b. Bind?.ng ex tending less than 3/8 or more than Liz inch at top of band openingle) or st top ctf v e n t .

c . E x r e n s l ~ f i of b i n d i n g on hand opening(s) or at top of back vent n o t on i n s i d e lunl if ied) side ~ f . liner.

d. Tack or bartack less than 1 / 4 or rmre than 1/2 j.nch long or the stitch-throw less than 1/16 or more than 3/32 inch.

Cl,assif ic .at ian

Defec ts Major Minor e, Binding at bottom of hand opening(s1 not abutted and tacked or b a r tacked .;! X f . Ends of binding or armholes not turned in and over-lapped L/2 i n c h or more or ends not turned back end over lapped and bar tacked (applicable to A c o n s t m c t i…