PD WNU 17-04A IWOL FR Jacket.pdf
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- Solicitation number
- SPE1C126RX068
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This is a Purchase Description (PD WNU 17-04A) for an Air Force Intermediate Weather Outer Layer Jacket, Flame Resistant, issued by AFLCMC/WNU on December 13, 2017. The document specifies technical requirements for flame-resistant intermediate weather jackets intended for Air Force aircrew personnel as components of their cold weather aviation clothing system.
The jacket is available in two types: Type I with hose port configuration and Type II without hose port configuration. Two color classes are specified: Class 1 in Air Force Shade Sage Green 1666 and Class 2 in Operational Camouflage Pattern (OCP). Six sizes are required (XSmall through XXLarge) in three lengths each (Short, Regular, Long). The jacket features a form-fitting design with lower hip length, 3-inch standing top-stitched collar, shaped front yoke, gusseted sleeves, center front slide fastener closure, hand warmer pockets with closures, built-in sleeve pockets with hook and loop patches, and adjustable wrist tabs. The jacket is constructed from a three-layer, 4-way stretch soft shell fabric with fleece lining that is flame resistant, wind resistant, and breathable. Pocketing material must be inherently flame-resistant aramid jersey knit with minimum 100 lbs bursting strength and specific stretch and dimensional stability properties. Collar lining must be aramid fleece with matching flame resistance characteristics. All components including slide fasteners, elastic cord, grommets, and thread must meet flame resistance requirements. Finished jacket measurements are specified with tolerances for neck opening, chest, sweep, zipper length, back length, sleeve length, and sleeve opening across all sizes. Quality conformance inspection requires visual examination for major and minor defects per ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 sampling procedures, with component material testing for flame resistance per ASTM D6413, dimensional stability per AATCC 135, and other physical properties. First article inspection is required when specified in the procurement document.
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INCH-POUND
PD WNU 17-04A
13 December 2017
SUPERSEDES
PD WNU 17-04
29 September 2017
PURCHASE DESCRIPTION
JACKET, AIR FORCE INTERMEDIATE WEATHER OUTER LAYER, FLAME RESISTANT
This Purchase Description is approved for use by the Air Force and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.
Prepared by
AFLCMC/WNU
1981 Monahan Way Wright-Patterson AFB, OH 45433-7017
Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to
AFLCMC/WNU, 1901 10th St., Bldg. 63, Wright-Patterson AFB OH 45433-7605, or emailed to: aflcmc.wnv.workflow@us.af.mil.
AMSC N/A FSC 8415
DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A: Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.
mailto:aflcmc.wnv.workflow@us.af.mil
1. SCOPE
1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the technical requirements for a flame resistant, intermediate weather, outer layer jacket.
1.2 Classification. The jacket will be in the following types, classes, and sizes as specified (see 6.2):
1.2.1 Types.
Type I – Hose port configuration Type II – Non-hose port configuration
1.2.2 Classes.
Class 1 – Air Force Shade Sage Green 1666 Class 2 – Operational Camouflage Pattern (OCP)
1.3 Lengths and sizes. The jackets shall be furnished in the following lengths and sizes
(see 6.2):
SCHEDULE OF SIZES
2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS
2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.
2.2 Government documents.
2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.
FEDERAL STANDARDS
FED-STD-4 Glossary of Fabric Imperfections
X-Small Small Medium Large X-Large XX-Large Short Short Short Short Short Short
Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular Long Long Long Long Long Long
COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS
A-A-55126 Fastener Tapes, Hook and Loop, Synthetic A-A-55217 Thread, Aramid, Spun Staple A-A-55634 Zippers (Fasteners, Slide Interlocking)
DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS
MIL-DTL-32075 Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use) MIL-DTL-5038 Tape, Textile and Webbing, Textile, Reinforcing, Nylon
DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS
MIL-STD-1487 Glossary of Cloth Coating Imperfections
(Copies of these documents are available online at http://quicksearch.dla.mil.)
2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other
Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.
FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION (FTC)
Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
(Copies are available online at https://www.ftc.gov/.)
PURCHASE DESCRIPTION
GL-PD-12-16 Cloth, Wind Resistant, Insulated, and Flame Resistant
(Copies of documents are available through the contracting activity.)
2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.
AEROSPACE INDUSTRIES ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA INC.
AIA/NAS NASM 16491 Grommet, Metallic
(Copies are available online at http://www.aia-aerospace.org or https://www.ihs.com/industry/aerospace-defense-security.html.)
AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)
AATCC 20 Fiber Analysis: Qualitative AATCC 96 Dimensional Changes in Commercial Laundering of Woven and
Knitted Fabrics Except Wool http://quicksearch.dla.mil/ https://www.ftc.gov/ https://www.ihs.com/industry/aerospace-defense-security.html
AATCC 135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering AATCC EP 9 Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles
(Copies are available online at https://www.aatcc.org .)
AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)
ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes
(Copies are available online at http://asq.org or http://www.ansi.org.)
ASTM INTERNATIONAL
ASTM D276 Standard Test Methods for Identification of Fibers in Textiles ASTM D2594 Standard Test Method for Stretch Properties of Knitted Fabrics
Having Low Power ASTM D3776 Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric ASTM D3787 Standard Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textiles ASTM D5034 Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of
Textile Fabrics (Grab Test) ASTM D6193 Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams ASTM D6413 Standard Test Method for Flame Resistance of Textiles (Vertical
Test)
(Copies are available online at https://www.astm.org.)
OTHER PUBLICATIONS
Repeat Insult Patch Test - Modified Draize Procedure Principles and Methods of Toxicology, (fourth edition) A Wallace Hayes (editor), pp 1057 – 1060, 2001.
(Copies are available online at http://www.taylorandfrancis.com/.)
Sears Roebuck and Co.
Sears Fabric Defect Replica Scales
(Copies are available online at http://www.sdlatlas.com.)
2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.
3. REQUIREMENTS
3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.
http://asq.org/ http://www.ansi.org/ https://www.astm.org/ http://www.taylorandfrancis.com/ http://www.sdlatlas.com/
3.2 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.
3.3 Design. The intermediate weather outer layer jacket shall be form fitting with a lower hip length, a 3 inch standing top-stitched collar, a shaped front yoke and set in/gusseted sleeves. The Type I has a porthole built in to the yoke. The center front slide fastener closure features a turned down slider flap at the top of the collar. The hem has an elastic drawcord with a cannon clip and barrel lock closure. The lower front of the jacket has hand warmer pockets with slide fastener closures and both sleeves have built in pockets with hook and loop patches, ID tabs and slide fastener closures. The sleeve hems are adjustable with wrist tabs and hook and loop fastener tape. The material shall provide flame resistance and cold weather insulation protection against wind, rain and snow. It shall be constructed of a three-layer, 4-way stretch, soft shell fabric with fleece lining or as specified in the contract (see 6.2). The jacket offers insulation from cold and wet weather and breathability for allowing moisture vapor generated during periods of activity to vent to the environment. The jacket shall be able to be worn over flightsuits or integrate with other layers of the Air Force Cold Weather Aviation System.
3.3.1 Figures. Figures 1 through 11 are furnished for informational purposes only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written document and the figure, the written document shall govern.
3.4 Materials.
3.4.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be an insulating three-layer, soft shell fabric with a smooth exterior, a fleece inner lining, and a wind resistant, flame resistant, breathable membrane and conform to GL-PD-12-16, Type I. The color shall be Air Force Shade Sage Green 1666 for Class 1 and Operational Camouflage Pattern (OCP) for Class 2 jackets.
3.4.1.1 Basic material small parts. The small parts specified in Table V shall be an insulating three layer, soft shell fabric from the basic material with jersey knit aramid and a wind resistant, flame resistant, breathable membrane. The color shall be Air Force Shade Sage Green 1666 for Class 1 and Operational Camouflage Pattern (OCP) for Class 2 jackets.
3.4.2 Pocketing material. The pocketing material shall be a jersey knit, inherently flame resistant fabric. This fabric shall provide 4-way stretch in order to minimize bulk and maximize range of motion. The finished fabric shall meet the requirements of Table I when tested as specified in Table X. For Class 1 jacket, the color of the cloth shall match Air Force Shade Sage Green 1666. For Class 2 jacket, the color of the cloth shall match Tan 499 (see 6.2).
TABLE I. Physical requirements of pocketing material.
Characteristic Requirement
Fiber identification Aramid Weight, oz/square yard (max) 6.5 Bursting strength, lbs (min) 100
TABLE I. Physical requirements of pocketing material - continued.
Characteristic Requirement
Stretch and Recovery, Stretch, percent (min) Length 10 Width 90 Growth, percent (max) Length 5 Width 8 Dimensional stability, percent (max):
Wale direction 10 Course direction 8 Flame Resistance: Initial After Flame, second (max) Wale direction 2 Course direction 2 After Glow, second (max) Wale direction 5 Course direction 5 Char Length, inch (max) Wale direction 4 Course direction 4 Burn behavior No melt, no drip 1/ Flame Resistance: After 5 laundering cycles After Flame, second (max) Wale direction 2 Course direction 2 After Glow, second (max) Wale direction 10 Course direction 10 Char Length, inch (max) Wale direction 4 Course direction 4 Burn behavior No melt, no drip 1/ Toxicity 3.12 1/ There shall be no evidence of flaming, melted, or molten pieces dropping from the specimen at any time during the test.
3.4.3 Collar lining material. The collar lining material shall be a knit, fleece, inherently flame resistant fabric. The finished fabric shall meet the requirements of Table II when tested as specified in Table X. For Class 1 jacket, the color of the cloth shall match Air Force Shade Sage Green 1666. For Class 2 jacket, the color of the cloth shall match Tan 499 (see 6.2).
TABLE II. Physical requirements of collar lining material.
Characteristic Requirement Fiber identification Aramid Weight, oz/square yard (max) 6.6 Dimensional stability, percent (max):
Wale direction 7 Course direction 5
TABLE II. Physical requirements of collar lining material - continued.
Characteristic Requirement
Flame Resistance: Initial After Flame, second (max) Wale direction 2 Course direction 2 After Glow, second (max) Wale direction 5 Course direction 5 Char Length, inch (max) Wale direction 4 Course direction 4 Burn behavior No melt, no drip 1/ Flame Resistance: After 5 laundering cycles After Flame, second (max) Wale direction 2 Course direction 2 After Glow, second (max) Wale direction 5 Course direction 5 Char Length, inch (max) Wale direction 4 Course direction 4 Burn behavior No melt, no drip 1/ Toxicity 3.12 1/ There shall be no evidence of flaming melted or molten pieces dropping from the
3.5 Components. The color for components ( 3.5.1, 3.5.2, 3.5.3, 3.5.4, 3.5.5, 3.5.6, 3.5.7, 3.5.8), shall be a good match to Air Force Shade Sage Green 1666 for Class 1 jacket and Tan 499 for Class 2 jacket when tested as specified in 4.4.3.
3.5.1 Fasteners, hook and loop. The hook and loop fastener shall conform to
AA55126, Type II, Class 1 or 4. No slit or split edges are permitted. Each required width shall maintain a tolerance of ±1/16 inch. The hook and loop fastener tape shall be stabilized as necessary to allow maximum flatness and sizes specified in Table III.
Table III. Hook and loop fastener tape lengths – all sizes (inches).
Forearm Pencil Pocket
Flap Hook 1/
Forearm Pencil Pocket Loop
1/
Wrist Cuff Hook
2/
Wrist Cuff Loop
2/
Shoulder Pen Pocket Flap Hook
2/
Shoulder Pocket Loop
2/
Left Chest Loop
1/
Right Chest Loop
1/
1 x 3 2 x 3 1 x 4 1 x 5 1 x 1 4 x 6 2 x 4 3-1/2 x 3-1/2 1/ Cut quantity of one piece 2/ Cut quantity of two pieces
3.5.2 Slide fasteners. The slide fasteners for the center front and pocket openings shall be comprised of high temperature resistant plastic individual element fastener with high temperature resistant tape. All slide fasteners shall conform to A-A-55634, with the types and styles as specified in 3.5.2.1 to 3.5.2.3. The opening for the slider pull-tabs shall be a minimum of 5 millimeters in length and 7 millimeters in width.
3.5.2.1 Center front slide fastener. Front closure slide fastener with single slider shall be
Type III, Style 8 and size 5 and shall meet the requirements in Table VIII.
3.5.2.2 Side pocket slide fasteners. Side pocket slide fasteners shall be Type I, Style 7, size 5, and shall be 9 inches in length, for all sizes.
3.5.2.3 Shoulder pocket slide fastener. Shoulder pocket closure slide fastener shall be
Type I, Style 7, size 5, and shall be 7 inches in length for all sizes.
3.5.2.4 Slide fastener pull tab. The slide fastener pull tabs shall be made using a heat resistant rubber or tape material. After assembly to the pull, the pull tab shall have a finished length of 2 (±1/8) inches and a width of 3/8 inch (see Figure 9). The strength of the pull tab shall comply with A-A-55634 and have a minimum breaking strength of 100 pounds. Pull tab ends shall be bartacked (see Table VI and Figure 4) and seared or treated.
3.5.3 Barrel lock. The barrel lock shall be 1/2 inch by 3/8 inch round shape, minimum push-button size. The barrel lock shall maintain a 3 pound minimum holding strength on elastic cord (3.5.6) at -40ºF, 70ºF, and 104ºF, when tested in accordance with 4.6.
3.5.4 Cannon clip. The cannon clip used to secure the bottom hem cord shall be made of nylon, with a minimum melting point of 505°F, and conform to the dimensions below:
3.5.5 Grommet. The grommets used at the hem of jacket shall be in accordance with
Size “0” (1/4 inch), Type II of NASM 16491. The enamel color shall be as specified in 3.5.
3.5.6 Elastic cord. The elastic cord shall be heat resistant and constructed from a flame resistant, braided fiber cover over a continuous neoprene core, 1/8 (±1/64) inch diameter. Cut lengths for the elastic cord are listed in Table IV.
Table IV. Elastic cord lengths (inches).
Size XS S M L XL XXL Length 50 52 54 58-1/2 62-1/2 67
3.5.7 Locker loop webbing. The locker loop webbing shall be 3/8 inch wide conforming to Type III, Class 1A of MIL-DTL-5038, with a flame resistant treatment (see 4.8). The finished length of the webbing shall be 2 inches for all sizes.
DIMENSIONS
(MM) (INCH)
A 9.9 0.39 B 31.1 1.22
C 7.8 0.31 D 3.6 0.14 E 2.35*
All Tolerances are (±0.2 mm) Except * tolerance is (±0.05 mm)
3.5.8 Thread. The type and size of the thread shall be aramid, size Tex 40 conforming to AA55217. The heat resistant thread shall have no chemical finishes or treatments, other than those commonly applied on commercial flame resistant threads.
3.5.9 Shade and size marking. The component parts of the jackets shall be marked, ticketed, or bundled to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout each jacket. Any method may be used except:
a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.
b. Sew-on type tickets.
c. Adhesive type tickets, which leave an impression or traces of paper adhesive on the material upon removal of the tickets.
d. Any marking medium that would tend to leave a permanent mark.
3.5.10 Labels. Each jacket shall have a size label and a combined identification and care label. The color of the labels shall approximate the ground shade of the basic fabric and the printing shall be black. The inscription shall have a minimum font size of 8 points for the identification/care label only. The font for the size label shall be 10 points. The inscription legibility, label, and label attachment shall last the expected life of the jacket.
3.5.10.1 Size label. The size label shall conform to Type VI, Class 2 of MIL-DTL-32075 and shall be sewn on the inside center back approximately 1/2 inch below the neckline. The label shall be sewn on all four sides and the stitching shall not cover the printing. The size label shall include the information as follows for the applicable size: Jacket size/length and National Stock Number.
3.5.10.2 Identification and instruction label. The combination identification and instruction label shall conform to Type VI, Class 15 of MIL-DTL-32075 and shall be stitched on inside of jacket on the right hand warmer pocket bag (see Figure 8). The label shall be stitched on all four sides. The stitching shall not penetrate the printing and shall not be visible on jacket front. The label shall include the following information:
JACKET, AIR FORCE INTERMEDIATE WEATHER, OUTER LAYER, FLAME RESISTANT
Contract Number:
Fiber Content:
Contractor Name:
NSN
INSTRUCTION LABEL
PRIOR TO LAUNDERING: Empty pockets and remove patches. Close zipper and hook and loop fasteners. Turn inside out.
HOME LAUNDERING: Use cold water detergent. Wash in cold water. No chlorine bleach. No liquid softener. Rinse in cold water. Tumble dry low heat or lay flat to dry.
CAUTION:
DO NOT USE BLEACH, BLEACH ALTERNATIVES, STARCH, FABRIC
SOFTENERS, HIGH HEAT OR IRON. DO NOT DRY CLEAN.
DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL
3.5.10.3 Bar code tag. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The paper tag shall be standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 100 pounds. The paper used for the tags shall have a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a hole and shall be attached to each item by a fastener, clearly legible and readable by a scanner. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN). There shall be a 12 digit UPC number assigned for all NSN's by the contracting activity. The initials “UPC” must appear beneath the code. The bar code type shall be a medium to high code density and shall be located so that it is completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and so that it causes no damage to the item. The UPC code must be placed on all shipping cartons on which the NSN appears.
3.6 Patterns. Standard patterns that show directional lines, size, and notches for the proper assembling of the parts of the jackets will be furnished by the Government (see 6.3). The standard patterns shall be used as a guide in cutting the manufacturer’s working patterns. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns except that additional notching to facilitate manufacture is permissible. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary to accommodate manufacturer’s processes and the use of automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the serviceability, dimensional requirements, or appearance.
Adhesive patterns are prohibited. Pattern grain lines shall not be modified. The patterns shall provide seam allowances as follows:
1/8 inch - Sleeve pocket bag, except top
1/4 inch - Slide fastener flap
3/8 inch - Collar, neckline, left and right yoke at center front, lower fronts at center front, yoke and lower front joining seam, front pocket bag at center front and top, pen pocket left and right sides, pen pocket flap, and shoulder pen pocket flap
1/2 inch - Back side seams, shoulder seams, lower fronts side seams, lower gusset except hem, front pocket bag side seams, cuff tab, armhole, and pen pocket top and bottom
1 1/2 inch - Body hem
2 inch - Sleeve hem
3.6.1 Pattern parts. The component parts of the jacket shall be cut from the material as specified in accordance with pattern parts indicated in Table V.
TABLE V. List of pattern parts.
Material Pattern Nomenclature CAD Pattern
Names Cut Parts
Basic material (fleece backing) (see 3.4.1)
Back BACK 1 Left sleeve SLV-L 1
Right sleeve SLV-R 1 Left front yoke FT-YOKE-L 1
Right front yoke FT-YOKE-R 1 Lower front FT-LW 2
Upper gusset GUSSET-UP 2 Lower gusset GUSSET-LW 2 Outer collar O-COLLAR 1
Basic material (small parts) (see 3.4.1.1)
Sleeve pocket slide fastener facing SLV-PK-ZP-FAC 2
Slide fastener cover ZIP-CV 2 Cuff gusset GUSSET-CUFF 2
Slide fastener flap ZIP-FL 2 Pen pocket PK-PEN 1
Pen pocket flap PK-FL-PEN 1 Cuff tab CUFF-TAB 2 Cordlock CORDLOCK 2
Shoulder pen pocket flap SHLD-PEN-PK-FL 2 Port facing (Type I only) PORT-FC 1
Pocketing material (see 3.4.2)
Front pocket bag PK-BG-FT 2 Sleeve pocket bag PK-BG-SLV 2
Collar lining material (see 3.4.3) Inner collar IN-COLLAR 1
3.7 Construction. The jackets shall be constructed as specified in Table VII, although the manufacturer is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed therein.
The stitches per inch specified in Table VII shall be interpreted to be the minimum and the maximum stitches per inch. Additional basting and holding stitching to facilitate the manufacture of the jacket shall be permitted, provided the thread used for the additional basting and holding stitching is removed or shall not show on the finished jacket.
3.7.1 Stitches and seams. Seaming shall be consistent and exhibit a uniform appearance and shall conform to ASTM D6193. Where two or more seam or stitch types are specified for the same part of an operation, any one of them may be used. Seam allowances shall be maintained with the seams sewn so that no raw edges, run-offs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams shall result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there shall be no tight or loose stitching. Edge stitching and topstitching shall be uniformly gauged throughout the garment. The depth between the fold of seams that is required to be worked out shall be less than 1/16 inch. The guides and knives on safety trimming shall not exceed 1/16 inch.
3.7.1.1 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/4 inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching.
Ends of continuous lines of stitching shall overlap not less than 1/2 inch except on labels where a minimum of three stitch overlap is required. The lock stitch shall be imbedded in the material sewn.
3.7.1.2 Type 401 stitching. When stitch Type 401 is used, the looper thread shall be on the inside of the jacket.
3.7.1.3 Repairs of stitching. Repairs shall be as follows:
3.7.1.3.1 Repairs to types 301 and 401 stitching.
a. When thread breaks or bobbin run-outs occur during stitching, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2 inch back from the end of the stitching.
b. Thread breaks or two or more consecutively skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item (in-process or end item) shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of 1/2 inch in back of the defective area, continue over the defective area a minimum of 1/2 inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials and restitching in the required manner.
c. When making these repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched. The loose ends shall be trimmed by scissors.
d. Type 301 stitching may be used to repair Type 401 stitching in accordance with b and c, except substitute 3/4 inch for 1/2 inch wherever 1/2 inch appears.
CAUTION: Pulling or breaking the loose ends is not permitted.
3.7.1.3.2 Repairs to types 502, 503, 504, 515, and 516. Stitching repairs for types 502, 503, 504, 515, and 516 may be repaired in accordance with 3.7.1.3.1 b, except substitute 3/4 inch for 1/2 inch wherever 1/2 inch appears.
3.7.1.4 Thread ends. All thread ends shall be trimmed to 1/4 inch maximum length.
3.7.1.5 Bartacks. Bartack lengths and stitches per tack shall be as specified in Table VI.
Stitches per bartack are to be counted as visible needle punches, i.e. zig-zags, where straight stitches running underneath the zig-zags do not count. Bartacking shall be free from thread breaks and loose stitching. Bartacks are required at the reinforcement points as specified in Table VI and Figure 4.
TABLE VI. Placement of bartacks Bartack
Numbers Bartack Location Size of Tack Stitches per Tack
# of Bartacks Total
1 Horizontal bartacks at top and bottom of hand warmer pocket opening. 7/8 inch 28-30 2 4
2 Vertical bartacks at top of left forearm pen pocket. 5/8 inch 24-26 3 3
3 Horizontal bartacks at top corners of left forearm pen pocket flap. 5/8 inch 24-26 2 2
4 Vertical bartacks at top of sleeve shoulder pen pocket. 5/8 inch 24-26 2 4
5 Horizontal bartacks at top and bottom of shoulder pocket slide fastener. 5/8 inch 24-26 2 4
6 Vertical bartacks at base of hoseport opening (Type I only). 7/8 inch 28-30 2 2
7 Vertical bartack to anchor each end of the elastic cord (hidden). 5/8 inch 24-26 1 2
8 Horizontal bartacks at jacket hem to reinforce cord lock holder loop. 7/8 inch 28-30 1 2
9 Vertical bartacks at bottom slide fastener ends. 7/8 inch 28-30 1 2
10 Slide fastener pull tab. 1/4 inch 16-20 2 6
11 Horizontal bartack at bottom of sleeve shoulder pen pocket 7/8 inch 28-30 1 2
3.7.1.6 Automatic stitching. Automatic machines may be used to perform any of the stitch patterns, provided the requirements for the stitch pattern, stitches per inch, and size and type of thread are met; and at least three overlapping or backstitches are used to secure the ends of the stitching.
3.7.1.7 Appearance of seams. The appearance rating of the seams and stitching of the finished jacket shall be “4” or greater. Puckered seams shall be examined in accordance with AATCC 88B, (3), (IV), (A)iii after 5 launderings. Puckering on a major portion of a seam that is less than a rating of “4” shall be scored as a puckered seam.
3.7.2 Cutting. The parts of the jacket shall be cut in accordance with the patterns specified in 3.6, and from the materials and in the quantity specified in Table V.
3.8 Manufacturing operations requirements. The jackets shall be manufactured in accordance with the manufacturing operation requirements specified in Table VII. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations. Automated apparel equipment may be used to perform any of the operations specified in Table VII, provided that the seam and stitch type are as specified, and the finished component conforms to the required configuration. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automated equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in this purchase description. The thread tension shall be properly maintained on all stitching operations so that the stitching will not be too tight or too loose.
3.9 Configuration. Each jacket shall conform to the finished measurements in Table VIII and the construction methods specified in Table VII, with pattern pieces specified in Table V in order to maintain configuration compliance.
3.10 Abbreviations in table of operations. The abbreviations used in Table VII are as follows:
Brtck - Bartack
TABLE VII. Manufacturing operation requirements.
No. Description of Operation Stitch Type
Seam & Stitch Type
Stitches per Inch
1. Cut jackets.
a. Cut jackets in strict accordance with patterns furnished which show directional lines, size, shape, placement of pockets, flaps, patches, and notches for assembly.
Directional lines shall be placed in the warp direction.
b. Cut all parts of the jackets from one piece of material.
All pieces shall be cut in accordance with directional lines on patterns.
c. Cut collar with long dimension across the material, in the direction of the filling.
2. Replacement of defective or damaged parts.
a. Care shall be exercised during spreading, cutting, and manufacturing operations to ensure that material defects and damages as classified in Table IX are excluded and replaced with non-defective and properly matched components.
3. Component marking.
a. Mark, ticket, or bundle all component parts of the jacket to ensure correct size, proper assembly, and uniform shade throughout the jacket.
b. Any method of marking may be used except:
1. Metal fastening devices.
2. Sew-on tickets.
3. Adhesive type tickets which leave traces of adhesive on the material after removal of the tickets.
c. The use of ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp, or pencil will be acceptable provided the numbers do not show through the outside of the jacket and the numbers are covered by seam allowance.
TABLE VII. Manufacturing operation requirements – Continued.
No. Description of Operation Stitch Type
Seam & Stitch Type
Stitches
4. Labeling.
Sew labels to jacket on all four sides with stitching not more than 3/16 inch from edge of label. Stitching shall not be through writing on label. Position labels as follows:
a. Combination identification and instruction label shall be located on inside of right front attached to the pocket bag 5 inches from finished bottom and 1 1/2 inches from the center front.
301 LSbj-1 8-10
b. Size label shall be sewn at the center back, 1/2 to 3/4 inch down from the collar joining seam. The label shall be toward the wearer in the finished jacket and centered (±1/2 inch off the center tolerance).
5. Prepare left and right yoke.
a. Stitch left chest loop patch to left yoke according to lines on pattern.
b. Stitch right chest loop patch to right yoke, according to lines on pattern.
c. Overedge stitch right yoke extension (Type I only). 502 or 503 or
EFd-1 8-10
d. Fold right yoke extension and stitch 3/16 to 1/4 inch from folded edge along extension (Type I only).
301 EFa-1 8-10
6. Prepare fronts.
a. Stitch identification and instruction label to right front pocket bag (see operation 4).
b. Stitch front pocket bag to back side of lower gusset with a 3/8 inch seam.
301 SSa-1 8-10
c. Stitch slide fastener to gusset 1/4 inch from teeth between notches. Clip and turn.
301 LSbu-1 8-10
TABLE VII. Manufacturing operation requirements – Continued.
No. Description of Operation Stitch Type
Seam & Stitch Type
Stitches
6. Prepare fronts – Continued.
d. Single needle topstitch around slide fastener 3/16 to 1/4 inch from edge.
301 OSf-1 8-10
e. Overedge stitch edge of extension on the lower front. 502 or
f. Stitch slide fastener to lower front between notches.
301 SSal-2 8-10
g. Fold extension and double-needle topstitch length of slide fastener, 3/16 to 1/4 inch gauge, 1/8 inch from edge.
301 OSf-2 8-10
h. Close seam above and below slide fastener.
i. Double needle topstitch lower front above and below slide fastener, 3/16 to 1/4 inch gauge, 1/8 inch from edge.
j. Single needle topstitch around slide fastener on lower front, according to curved line on pattern, to create pocket opening.
301 SSv-1 8-10
k. Place a 7/8 inch bartack at top and bottom of pocket opening.
Brtck 28-30 per brtck
l. Fold pocketing to lower front. Overedge stitch raw edges of lower front and pocketing together at center front.
502 or 503 or
SSa-1 8-10
7. Attach yokes to back panel.
a. Stitch left and right yokes to back with a 1/2 inch seam allowance.
515 or
SSa-2 8-10
b. Turn shoulder seams toward the front and double needle topstitch yokes 3/16 to 1/4 gauge, 1/8 inch from the edge.
8. Prepare left sleeve.
Prepare and attach forearm pen pocket and pen pocket flap.
TABLE VII. Manufacturing operation requirements – Continued.
No. Description of Operation Stitch Type
Seam & Stitch Type
Stitches
8. Prepare left sleeve – Continued.
a. Fold under 1/2 inch at top of forearm pen pocket.
Center and stitch 2 inch x 3 inch loop patch to top of pen pocket.
b. Fold under sides and bottom of pen pocket and stitch to lower left sleeve according to marks on pattern using a double stitch 3/16 to 1/4 inch gauge, 1/8 inch from edge.
301 LSd-2 8-10
c. Add another line of stitching 7/8 inch from the inside left line of stitching to form pen pocket.
d. Place 5/8 inch bartacks at the top of the pen pocket at each side along the inside lines of double stitching and at the top of the additional line of stitching that forms the pen pocket.
Brtck 24-26 per
e. Stitch 1 inch x 3 inch hook patch on bottom of forearm pen pocket flap.
f. Create pen pocket flap by folding flap in half right sides together. Stitch sides and turn.
g. Topstitch flap along sides and bottom using a double stitch 3/16 to 1/4 inch gauge, 1/8 inch from edge, catching loop patch in the stitching.
301 SSt-2 8-10
h. Position the raw edge of the flap above the pocket on the line indicated on the pattern and stitch the flap to the sleeve.
301 LSbl-1 8-10
i. Fold the flap back over the pocket and double stitch 3/16 to 1/4 inch gauge, 1/8 inch from edge, along the top edge.
301 LSbl-2 8-10
j. Place 5/8 inch horizontal bartacks at each top corner of the flap, superimposed on the bottom line of stitching.
TABLE VII. Manufacturing operation requirements – Continued.
No. Description of Operation Stitch Type
Seam & Stitch Type
Stitches
9. Prepare sleeve shoulder slide fastener.
a. Place sleeve slide fastener pocket facing at the top of the sleeve, right sides together, matching pattern markings on sleeve and facing. Stitch along the pattern markings to form a rectangle. Cut opening between rows of stitching and tongue notch ends.
b. Turn slide fastener pocket facing through opening.
c. Fold slide fastener cover in half and stitch to top of slide fastener, covering slide fastener pull.
d. Center slide fastener under opening and stitch around slide fastener box 1/8 inch from fabric edge, catching slide fastener.
301 LSbu-1 8-10
e. Place 1/2 inch bartacks at each end of slide fastener box, superimposed on lines of stitching.
Brtck 28-30 per
10. Attach loop patch to sleeve.
a. Place a 4 inch x 6 inch loop patch on left sleeve parallel to slide fastener and matching pattern markings.
Stitch around the loop patch on sides and bottom. On the top of loop patch, continue stitching for 2 3/4 inches toward the sleeve slide fastener, leaving the last 1 1/4 inch free for the pencil pocket.
b. Stitch from top to bottom 1 1/4 inches from the line of stitching closest to the sleeve slide fastener, with three stitch backtack at the bottom of the patch.
c. Place 5/8 inch bartacks at the top of the lines of stitching on either side of the pen pocket.
d. Place a 7/8 inch bartack at the bottom of the pen pocket.
e. Create shoulder pen pocket flap by folding flap in half right sides together. Stitch sides, using a 3/8 inch seam allowance, and turn.
TABLE VII. Manufacturing operation requirements – Continued.
No. Description of Operation Stitch Type
Seam & Stitch Type
Stitches
10. Attach loop patch to sleeve – Continued.
f. Place hook patch on bottom of flap and topstitch flap along sides and bottom using a single stitch 1/8 inch from edge, catching hook patch in the stitching.
301 SSt-1 8-10
g. Position the raw edge of the shoulder pen pocket flap 3/4 inch above the pen pocket. Stitch the flap to the sleeve.
301 LSbl-1 8-10
h. Fold the flap back over the pocket and double stitch 3/16 to 1/4 inch gauge, 1/8 inch from edge, along the top edge, beginning and ending with a three stitch backtack.
301 LSbl-2 8-10
11. Prepare right sleeve.
Repeat operations 9 and 10 above.
12. Create sleeve inner pocket.
a. Overedge stitch sleeve pocket bag. 502 or
b. Position sleeve pocket bag to back of sleeve, matching notches. Stitch to sleeve with double needle 3/16 to 1/4 inch gauge.
301 SSv-2 8-10
13. Prepare cuff tab and lower gusset.
a. Fold under sides and one end of cuff tab 1/2 inch.
b. Position hook patch on underside of cuff tab.
c. Topstitch cuff tab on three sides, 1/8 inch from edge, catching hook patch in stitching.
301 SSt-1 8-10
d. Place cuff tab across cuff gusset, using pattern notches for placement.
e. Stitch cuff gusset to upper gusset, using a 3/8 inch seam, catching end of cuff tab.
301 SSa-1
f. Turn seam toward upper gusset and single needle topstitch, 3/16 to 1/4 inch from edge.
TABLE VII. Manufacturing operation requirements – Continued.
No. Description of Operation Stitch Type
Seam & Stitch Type
Stitches
14. Set sleeves to front.
a. Stitch sleeves to front yokes and back using a 1/2 inch seam allowance, matching notches.
SSa-2 8-10
b. Turn seams toward yoke and back and double needle topstitch 3/16 to 1/4 inch gauge, 1/8 inch from edge.
15. Attach upper gusset to sleeves and yokes.
a. Stitch curved side of upper gusset to sleeve and yoke, using a 1/2 inch seam.
SSa-2 8-10
b. Turn seams toward gusset and double needle topstitch 3/16 to 1/4 inch gauge, 1/8 inch from edge.
16. Assemble jacket front.
a. Stitch port facing to lower right front, using notch for placement (Type I only).
b. Stitch lower front and lower gusset to yokes and upper gusset, using a 1/2 inch seam.
SSa-2 8-10
c. Turn seam to yokes and upper gusset.
d. Single needle topstitch seam, 3/16 to 1/4 inch from
e. Stitch 7/8 inch vertical bartacks on each side of hoseport opening, catching port facing (Type I only).
Brtck 28-30 per
17. Join side seams.
Stitch fronts to back at side seams, using a 1/2 inch seam.
515 or
SSa-2 8-10
18. Hem sleeves.
The hem shall finish 2 (±1/8) inch width.
a. Overedge sleeves at the bottom. 502 or
b. Starting at the side seams of the sleeves, hem the sleeves with a double needle topstitch 3/16 to 1/4 inch gauge, keeping cuff tab free.
301 EFa-2 8-10
TABLE VII. Manufacturing operation requirements – Continued.
No. Description of Operation Stitch Type
Seam & Stitch Type
Stitches
19. Collar.
a. Stitch outer collar to inner collar at top edge.
b. Stitch outer collar to neckline. 301 SSa-1 8-10
20. Front slide fastener draft flap.
a. With right sides together, stitch along curved edge of front slide fastener draft flap, using a 1/4 inch seam.
b. Turn right side out.
c. Single needle topstitch curved edge 1/8 inch from
d. Overedge raw edges together. 502 or 503 or
21. Set slide fastener.
a. Stitch slide fastener face down to back edge of front slide fastener draft flap.
b. Stitch slide fastener and slide fastener draft flap to left front of jacket starting 1 1/2 inches from bottom, according to notch on front slide fastener draft flap.
301 LSbk-2 8-10
c. Fold top of slide fastener draft flap over the top of the slide fastener and stitch over previous line of stitching.
d. Stitch other half of slide fastener to right front of jacket, starting 1 1/2 inches from bottom.
301 LSbk-2 8-10
e. Fold inner collar to front, covering slide fastener. Stitch over previous line of stitching.
f. Fold collar back to finished position.
g. Turn slide fastener and slide fastener draft flap to finished position.
h. Single needle topstitch, 3/16 to 1/4 inch from edge, starting at bottom of slide fastener, continuing around the top of the collar and down the opposite front.
TABLE VII. Manufacturing operation requirements – Continued.
No. Description of Operation Stitch Type
Seam & Stitch Type
Stitches
22. Attach locker loop and label.
a. Center the locker loop at the inner back neck and backtack the locker loop at each end.
b. Stitch brand/size label to back of jacket as indicated in 4b.
23. Finish collar.
Turn inner collar edge under 3/8 inch and stitch collar closed, catching locker loop and label under the collar.
301 LSb-1 8-10
24. Prepare cord lock holder loops.
a. Overedge stitch around cord lock holder loops. 502 or
b. Turn under 1/2 inch on one long edge of each loop.
c. Fold remaining long edge over so the cord lock holder loops finish 1 inch wide.
d. Topstitch 1/8 inch from each long edge.
e. Fold under 1 inch on end of holder loops and topstitch on all 4 sides, 1/8 inch from edge.
f. Attach grommets to holder loops centered on folded ends.
g. Attach two additional grommets to left and right front hem, 3 inches and 4 1/2 inches from front pocket seam.
h. Stitch the cord holder loops to the hem of the jacket on each side centered between the grommets.
25. Insert elastic cord.
a. Fold end of elastic cord 1/2 inch and bartack to slide fastener seam in hem at one side.
b. Thread cord through the grommets so that cord is exposed at sides between the grommets.
c. Fold other end of cord 1/2 inch and bartack to slide fastener seam at other side of hem.
TABLE VII. Manufacturing operation requirements – Continued.
No. Description of Operation Stitch Type
Seam & Stitch Type
Stitches
26. Hem jacket.
The hem shall finish 1 1/2 (±1/8) inches width.
a. Hem jacket with a double needle topstitch 3/16 to 1/4 inch gauge, keeping elastic cord free. Hem stitching should not cross the front vertical stitch line.
301 EFa-2 8-10
b. Stitch 7/8 inch bartacks through the hem to reinforce the cord lock holder loops.
c. Stitch 7/8 inch bartacks at the front bottom slide fastener ends, superimposed on the stitch line.
d. At each pair of grommets on the hem, insert elastic cord through plastic cord lock, then through barrel lock holder loop. Attach a cannon clip to loop of cord.
27. Topstitch lower front.
Following the curved lines marked on the pattern, double needle topstitch 3/16 to 1/4 inch gauge at the lower front, catching the front pocket bag in the stitching and stopping at the front vertical stitch line.
28. Make slide fastener pull tabs.
a. Starting with a 3 3/4 inch length of 3/8 inch wide material, thread the material through the slide fastener pulls on the lower front pockets and front.
b. Fold the fabric so that the front part of the pull tab measures 2 inches.
c. Stitch 1 horizontal 1/4 inch bartack below the slide fastener pull. Stitch another horizontal 1/4 inch bartack at the bottom of the pull tab to hold the two ends of material together.
Brtck 16-20 per
29. Clean jacket.
a. Trim all ends of thread and remove loose threads.
b. Remove all spots and stains and all visible shade or size markings.
3.11 Jacket measurements. The finished measurements of the jacket shall conform to the requirements specified in Table VIII.
TABLE VIII. Finished measurements (inches).
Size (A)
1/2 Neck Opening at Edge
(B) 1/2
Chest
(C) 1/2
Sweep
(D) Center Front Zipper Length Short Regular Long
XSmall 8-3/4 20-1/4 19 26 27 28 Small 9-1/4 22-1/4 21 27 28 29
Medium 9-3/4 24-1/4 23 28 29 30 Large 10-1/4 26-1/4 25 29 30 31
XLarge 10-3/4 28-1/2 27 30 31 32 2XLarge 11-1/4 30-1/2 29 31 32 33
Tolerance ±3/8 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2
Size (E)
Center Back Length (F)
Center Back Sleeve Length (G)
1/2 Sleeve Opening Short Regular Long Short Regular Long
XSmall 25-1/2 26-1/2 27-1/2 32 33-1/2 35 5-1/2 Small 26-1/2 27-1/2 28-1/2 33 34-1/2 36 5-3/4
Medium 27-1/2 28-1/2 29-1/2 34 35-1/2 37 6 Large 28-1/2 29-1/2 30-1/2 35 36-1/2 38 6-1/4
XLarge 29-1/2 30-1/2 31-1/2 36 37-1/2 39 6-1/2 2XLarge 30-1/2 31-1/2 32-1/2 37 38-1/2 40 6-3/4
Tolerance ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±3/8
3.11.1 Guideline for taking finished measurements. All circumference measurements are taken from folded edge to folded edge with the garment lying flat (this might not be seam to seam) (see Figure 11).
(A) 1/2 Neck Opening at Edge - Taken from folded center back edge to folded center front edge at the top collar edge.
(B) 1/2 Chest – Taken from folded edge to folded edge 1 inch below the point where the armhole seam intersects with gusset/sleeve seam (imaginary bottom of armhole).
(C) 1/2 Sweep - Taken from folded edge to folded edge at bottom hem.
(D) Center Front Zipper Length - Taken from top of zipper to bottom of zipper.
(E) Center Back Length - Taken from center back neck seam straight down to bottom hem edge.
(F) Center Back Sleeve Length - Taken from center back neck along neck seam to high point of shoulder then follow sleeve edge to cuff edge.
(G) 1/2 Sleeve Opening - Taken from folded edge to folded edge at bottom of cuff.
3.12 Toxicity. The finished jacket shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.7. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.
3.12.1 Toxicity documents. Finishes/chemicals used in the process of manufacturing this jacket shall be identified and accompanied by the appropriate Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) information.
3.13 Workmanship. The jacket shall be thoroughly cleaned and all thread scraps, lint and foreign matter shall be removed. All closures shall be closed and engaged before packaging. The jacket shall not contain any fabric defects. The jacket shall be uniform in quality and shall be free from irregularities or defects which could adversely affect performance, reliability, or durability. The jacket shall conform to the quality established by this document.
4. VERIFICATION
4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:
a. First article inspection (see 4.2).
b. Quality conformance inspection (see 4.3).
4.2 First article inspection. The first article sample(s) shall be submitted in accordance with 3.1. The sample size will be as specified in the procurement document and shall be inspected for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship, and dimensional requirements. The presence of excessive defects, as defined by the contract, or failure to pass any test, shall be cause for rejection of the first article.
4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall consist of all examinations and tests specified in this document. Unless otherwise specified, sampling for conformance inspection shall be in accordance with the provisions of ANSI/ASQ Z1.4. The inspection and the AQL shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.
4.4 Component and end item inspections. In accordance with 4.3, components and end items shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this document or applicable procurement documents. The Government reserves the right to inspect and test all components and end items to determine conformance to requirements.
4.4.1 End item visual examination. The end item shall be examined for the defects listed in Table IX in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4.
4.4.2 Defects. The finished jacket shall be examined for major and minor defects in accordance with Table IX.
TABLE IX. Visual examination defects.
Examination Defect Classification Major Minor
1. Material defects and damages
a. Any hole cut, tear, smash, burn, exposed drill hole, broken or missing yarn. 1/
b. Knots greater than Sears Scale Level C (see 2.3). 2/
c. Slubs greater than Sears Scale Level D (see 2.3). 2/
d. Misweave, area of poor dye penetration, dye streak, broken or missing yarn, visible mend, thin place or shade bar. 1/
2. Shaded part 3/ a. Shade varying within an outside part.
b. Any part required to be cut from one piece on material shaded.
c. Color not as specified. 107
3. Cutting and marking
a. Any component part not cut in accordance with the directional lines on patterns.
b. Any component part not cut in accordance with the patterns that affects the design or finished dimensions.
4. Cleanliness a. Any minor spot, streak, or stain of a permanent nature on any portion of garment which would be visible when the garment is worn.
b. Removable spot, streak, or stain on outside of garment.
c. Thread ends not trimmed throughout garment.
d. Any holding or basting threads visible on outside of the finished garment, when applicable.
5. Component and assembly
a. Any defective component. 110
b. Any component part omitted.
c. Any required operation omitted or improperly performed.
TABLE IX. Visual examination defects – Continued.
Examination Defect Classification Major Minor
6. Elastic cord a. Any elastic cord caught in hem or tunnel stitching restricting use of elastic cord.
b. Any end not heat seared.
c. Any elastic cord omitted.
d. Any elastic cord insufficient in length.
e. Any barrel lock omitted.
f. Not caught in center front bartack, as specified.
7. Slide fastener a. Any part of slide fastener bent, broken, otherwise defective.
b. Not closing as specified.
c. Length not as specified.
d. Color not as specified.
e. Pull tab not as specified. 209
f. Hang-ups, jamming, incorrect slider position. 119
8. Wrist tabs a. Missing.
b. Improperly located. 121
9. Labels a. Missing, illegible, or incorrect.
b. Incorrectly placed or attached. 210
10. Accuracy of seaming
a. Seam twisted, pleated, or puckered. 123
b. Part of garment caught in any unrelated operation or stitching.
c. Thread break secured by stitching back of the break less than 1/2 inch.
d. Ends of all seams and stitching when not caught in other seams or stitching, uneven or backtacked less than 1/2 inch.
e. Thread color not as specified.
f. Gauge of stitching uneven or not as specified. 214
TABLE IX. Visual examination defects – Continued.
Examination Defect Classification Major Minor
11. Open seams a. More than 1/8 inch up to 1/4 inch.
b. More than 1/4 inch. 125
NOTE: One or more broken or two or more continuous skipped or run-off stitches constitute an open seam. On double stitched seams, a seam is considered open when one or both sides of the seam are open. Raw edge not securely caught in stitching shall be classified as an open seam.
12. Seams and stitching
a. Not specified seam or stitch type. 216
b. Missing, broken or skipped stitches. 126
13. Stitch tension a. Loose tension in any area:
1) more than 1 inch but not more than 2 inches.
2) more than 2 inches. 127
b. Tight tension (stitches break when normal strain is applied to the seam or stitching).
c. Missing, broken, or skipped stitches. 129
14. Stitches per inch (to be scored only when the condition exists on major portion of the seam)
a. Less than minimum specified:
1) one stitch. 218
2) two or more stitches. 130
b. More than maximum specified. 219
15. Pockets and flaps a. Flap attached crookedly, i.e., distance between sides of pocket and underside of opened flap varies more than 1/4 inch.
b. Pocket or flap poorly shaped.
c. Flap not covering front or back edge of pocket by 3/16 inch or more.
e. Pocket divider not properly placed. 223
16. Repairs a. More than five repairs on any one item. 131
17. Fronts Length of fronts
a. Hem uneven by 1/4 inch or more at bottom when fastened.
b. Uneven by 1/4 inch or more at neck when fastened.
TABLE IX. Visual examination defects – Continued.
Examination…
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