PD_MIL-DTL-87251A-Women.pdf

AMSC N/A FSC 8410

DISTRIUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addresses to (DLA- Troop Support, Standardization Office, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111- 5092). Since contact information can change, you may want to verify the currency of this address information using the ASSIST Online database at https://assist.dla.mil.

INCH-POUND

MIL-DTL-87251A (USAF)

11 September 2019

SUPERSEDING

MIL-J-87251 (USAF)

04 November 1988

DETAIL SPECIFICATION

JACKET, WOMAN'S: LIGHTWEIGHT WITH REMOVABLE LINER

This specification is approved for use by the Air Force and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This specification covers a woman's lightweight jacket with a removable liner.

1.2 Classification. The jacket is of one type furnished in the following sizes and lengths (see 6.2).

1.3 Sizes. The sizes and lengths are as follows:

Size Lengths 6 Short, Regular, Long 8 Short, Regular, Long, Extra-Long 10 Short, Regular, Long, Extra-Long

12 Short, Regular, Long, Extra-Long 14 Short, Regular, Long, Extra-Long 16 Short, Regular, Long, Extra-Long 18 Short, Regular, Long, Extra-Long 20 Regular, Long, Extra-Long 22 Regular, Long, Extra-Long

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification

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MIL-DTL-87251A (USAF)

or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core: Cotton-, Rayon-, or Polyester-Covered A-A-52106 - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend A-A-52094 - Thread, Cotton A-A-55126 - Fastener Tapes, Hook and Loop, Synthetic A-A-55634 - Zipper (Fasteners, Slide Interlocking)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-C-3735 - Cuffs, Knit, Wrist and Ankle, and Cloth, Knitted MIL-DTL-10176 - Cloth, Gabardine: Wool, Polyester and Wool MIL-C-21852 - Cloth, Taffeta, Nylon MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage and Tentage, (General Use) MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusibles

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY

ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 – Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes

(Copies are available online at http://www.asq.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL (ASTM)

ASTM D1777 - Standard Test Method for Thickness of Textile Materials ASTM D3776/D3776M – Standard Test Method for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams (DoD adopted)

(Copies of these documents are available on line at https://www.astm.org ) https://quicksearch.dla.mil.)/ http://www.asq.org/ https://www.astm.org/

THE AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC- 22 -Water Repellency: Spray Test AATCC-158 -Dimensional Changes on Dry Cleaning in

Perchlorethylene: Machine Method

(Copies of these documents are available on line at https://www.aatcc.org)

INFORMA HEALTHCARE

Repeat Insult Patch Test – Modified Draize Procedure Principles and Methods of Toxicology, A. Wallace Hayes (editor)

(Copies of this document are available online at https://www.crcpress.com)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Design. The jacket shall be single breasted with a covered slide fastener front closure. The jacket shall have a collar with collarstand, two front welt pockets, a hanger loop, set-in sleeves with knitted cuffs, a straight bottom, shoulder loops, and an inside patch pocket on the lower left side.

The jacket shall have a removable sleeveless quilted liner with bound edges and shall be attached to jacket with hook and loop pile fastener tapes (see figures 1 and 2).

3.3 Materials.

3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for the jacket shall be polyester/wool gabardine conforming to type II, class 12 of MIL-DTL-10176, except requirement for sponging shall not apply. The basic material shall have a durable water resistant finish (see 3.3.1.1).The basic material shall match USAF Color Blue, Shade No. 1605

3.3.1.1 Spray rating. The basic material with water resistant finish shall have a spray rating equal to or better than ratings of 90, 90, 90 initial and 80, 80, 80 after 1 dry cleaning when tested as specified in 4.3.1.1.

3.3.2 Lining. The material for lining the front and back of jacket, jacket sleeves, inside patch pocket, and for liner’s outershell shall be nylon taffeta cloth conforming to type IV of MIL-C-21852. The color of the lining material shall be a good match to the basic material.

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3.3.3 Insulating cloth. The insulating cloth for the liner shall have dual scrim. The batting shall be composed of 65% polyolefin/35% polyester (excluding scrim) with a minimum weight of 3.0 ounces/yard (excluding scrim) and a minimum thickness of 0.3 inches. The minimum R value for warmth shall be 1.14. The insulating cloth shall be dry-cleanable and machine washable. Specified requirements shall be tested in accordance with 4.3.2.

3.3.4 Fastener tapes. The hook and loop fastener tapes for attaching the liner to the jacket shall be 1 inch wide conforming to type I or II, class 1, style A of A-A-55126. The color of the fasteners tapes shall be Black.

3.3.5 Interlining. The fusible interlining material for the top layer of collar, collarstand, shoulder loops, and pocket welts shall conform to type V, classes 1 or 2, style A of MIL-C-44296. The color of the interlining material shall be charcoal gray, or black.

3.3.6 Binding. The binding for the edges of the liner shall be a 1-1/4 (+1/8) inches wide, bias-cut, nylon material. The color of the binding shall be a good match to the basic material.

3.3.7 Pocketing. The material for the pocket bag shall be polyester, or polyester and cotton, conforming to class 1 of A-A-52106. The color of the pocketing material shall be black.

3.3.8 Knitted cuffs. The material for the sleeves cuffs shall be a polyester knitted material conforming to type III, class 2 of MIL-C-3735 except that the knitted cuff material shall measure 7-5/8 inches long and shall match USAF Color Blue 1606.

3.3.9 Labels. Each jacket and each liner shall have a size label (see 3.3.9.1) and a combination label conforming (see 3.2.9.2).The jacket shall also have a barcode label/tag (see 3.3.9.3). The colorfastness to dry cleaning requirements of MIL-DTL-32075 shall apply to the jacket’s size and combination labels.

3.3.9.1 Size labels. The size labels for the jacket and for the liner shall conform to type VI, class 2 of MIL-DTL-32075. The sizes and lengths (short, regular, long, and extra-long) of the jacket may be abbreviated as follows: 8S, 8R, 8L, and 8XL.

3.3.9 2 Combination labels. The combination label for the jacket and for the liner shall include personal identification, identification, and instruction information and shall conform to type VI, classes 10 and 15 of MIL-DTL-32075. The jacket and liner labels’ inscription shall include the following information:

THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY LEFT BLANK

Jacket Label:

Name:________________________________

Service No.:____________________________

Jacket, Woman's: Lightweight with Removable Liner % polyester and % Wool (Fill in appropriate %) Contract Number Contractor Name Manufacturer Name (If applicable)

DRY CLEAN ONLY

Liner Label:

Name:_____________________________________

Service No.:________________________________

Jacket, Woman's: Lightweight with Removable Liner Contract Number Contractor Name Manufacturer Name (If applicable) DRY CLEAN or Machine wash, delicate cycle.

Tumble dry, low heat.

DO NOT STEAM PRESS

3.3.9.3 Barcode label/tag. Each jacket shall be individually bar-coded with the type VIII, class 17 label/tag of MIL-DTL-32075, except in addition to the National Stock Number (NSN) the label/tag shall also have a 12 digit Universal Product Code (UPC) element. The UPC is assigned by the Government for all NSNs and the initials “UPC” shall appear beneath the barcode. This label/tag shall be located so that both the NSN and UPC barcodes are completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified. The label’s location and inscription shall cause no damage to the item.

3.3.10 Zipper. The zipper for the front closure shall conform to type III, style 8, size 5 of A-A-55634. The chain shall be brass or aluminum with a short tab pull. The tape shall have a cotton warp and a nylon filling or shall be 100% polyester. The tape shall be a good match to the basic material. The brass components shall have a black chemical finish. All brass components shall be from same supplier. The aluminum components may have a black chemical finish or a black enamel finish. As an option, a nickel-plated finish may be used on the top stop and bottom pin and box of the zipper.

3.3.11 Thread. The thread for seaming, stitching, buttonhole making and bartacks shall conform to type I, 40 Tex, 3 ply of A-A-52094 or to cotton-covered or rayon-covered polyester core thread, 40 Tex, 2 or 3 ply conforming to A-A-50199. The thread for sewing on the button shall conform to type I, 90 Tex, 4 ply of A-A-52094. The color shall be a good match to the basic material and the thread shall have good colorfastness to wet dry cleaning.

3.4 Figures. Figures 1 and 2 are furnished for information purposes only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written specification and the figures, the written specification shall govern.

3.5 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.6 Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished by the Government and provide a seam allowance for the jacket of 1/4 inch for the collar, 1/2 inch for sleeve seams, shoulder seams, and knit cuff attachment and 3/8 inch for all other seams. The liner’s standard pattern provides 3/8 inch for side seam to allow for some trimming by serger (approximately 1/8 inch) per seam. The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way, and are to be used for cutting the contractor's working patterns. The standard patterns show size, directional lines for cutting, and are marked or notched for proper placement and assembly of the component parts. The working patterns shall be identical to the standard patterns. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in the specification or governed by the standard pattern.

3.6.1 Pattern parts. The components of the jacket and liner shall be cut from the materials specified in accordance with the pattern parts listed, in the quantity specified in Table I:

TABLE I Pattern parts.

Material Pattern part Abbreviation Cut parts

Basic material (3.3.1)

Front FRONT OS 2 Back BACK OS 1 Front facing FRTFAC OS 2 Topsleeve TOPSLV OS 2

TABLE I Pattern parts – Continued.

Material Pattern part Abbreviation Cut parts

Basic Material (3.3.1)

Undersleeve UNDSLV OS 2 Shoulder loop SHDR LOOP 4 Pocket welt PKT WELT 2

Pocket facing BKPKT FAC 2 Collar COLLAR 2 Collarstand COLLARSTD 2 Back neck facing BKNECK FAC 1

Lining (3.3.2) Front FRONT TAFF 2 Back BACK TAFF 1 Topsleeve TOPSLV TAFF 2 Undersleeve UNDSLV TAF 2 Inside Pocket INSIDEPKT TAF 1 Liner Front FRT TAF THI 4 Liner Back BCK TAF THI 2

Insulating cloth (3.3.3)

Liner Front FRT TAF THI 2 Liner Back BCK TAF THI 1

Interlining(3.3.5) Collar COLLAR 1 Collarstand COLLARSTD 1 Pocket welt PKT WELT 2 Shoulder loops SHDR LOOP 2 Front edge reinforcement FRONT FUS 2

Pocketing (3.3.7) Pocket POCKET 4 Finished shapers Inside pocket INSDPKT SHAP -

Pocket Placement INSDPKTPLCMK -

3.7 Stitches, seams, and stitching. Stitches, seams, and stitching types specified in Table II shall conform to ASTM-D-6193. Where two or more seam or stitch types are given for the same part of an operation, any one of them may be used. When stitch type 401 is used, the looper shall be on the inside of the cap. Seam allowance shall be maintained with seams sewn so that raw edges, run-offs, twists, pleats, or puckers will not result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Ends of a continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. The ends of the label stitching shall be overlapped not less than three stitches. The thread and the fabric shall not be lubricated by any means prior to or during the seaming

3.7.1 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all seams and stitching produced with 301 stitch type, when not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be backtacked or overstitched not less than 1/2 inch.

Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lock shall be embedded in the materials sewn.

3.7.1.1 Repairs of type 301 stitching. Repairs of type 301 stitching shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks or bobbin run-outs occur during stitching, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2 inch back of the end of the stitching.

b. Thread breaks or two or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of 1/2 inch in back of the defective area and continue a minimum of 1/2 inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials and re-stitching in the required manner.

When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched.

3.7.2 Types 101, 301, 401, 406, 503, 504, and 505. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.7.1.1.Repairs to stitch type 401 may be accomplished by use of stitch type 301.

3.8 Use of automated equipment. Automated equipment may be used to perform any of the operations specified in table I, providing that the seam and stitch type are as specified and the finished component conforms to the required configuration. When a Government furnished shaper pattern is provided, the component shall conform to that pattern.

3.9 Pressing. Pressing specified in Table I shall be accomplished with a heated pressing iron or machine.

3.10 Shade marking. The component parts shall be marked to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the jacket. Any method of shade marking may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.

b. Sew-on shade tickets.

c. Adhesive type tickets, which leave traces of paper or adhesive on material after removal of tickets.

The use of an ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp, or pencil is allowed, provided the numbering does not show on the outside of the jacket or liner.

3.11 Construction. The jacket shall be constructed in accordance with all manufacturing operations specified in Table II. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations listed however all operations specified shall be used to manufacture the jacket. The jacket shall be equal to the jacket produced following the order of operations specified in Table II.

Any additional basting or holding stitches used to facilitate manufacture are permissible provided the threads are removed or do not show on the finished jacket.

Abbreviations used in Table II:

Cont’d – Continued No. – Number

TABLE II. Manufacturing operations

No. OPERATION Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

1. Cut parts.

a. Cut the jacket in accordance with the patterns which have markings for placement of pockets, buttons, and buttonhole; sizes; warp directional lines; and notches for proper assembly of all parts.

b. Cut the strip for the hanger loop from the outershell fabric. The strip shall be 4 inches long and 1 inches wide.

c. Cut 8 strips of loop pile fastener tape, 1-1/2 inches long and 8 of hook fastener tape, 1-1/2 inches long.

d. Cut nylon bias binding for liner to proper length.

2. Replace defective parts.

a. Replace at the time of cutting any parts containing holes or seriously weakening defects such as smashes, multiple floats, slubs, snags, or pulls.

b. Replace any part damaged during the manufacturing process by needle chews, tears, holes, mends, burns, or scissor or knife cuts.

3. Mark parts.

Mark or ticket all parts to insure a uniform shade throughout the jacket and the proper assembling of all parts. If shade marking is used, the marking shall not show through and be visible on the outside of the jacket (see 3.10).

4. Fuse parts (see 3.12).

a. Fuse the top collar, top collar-stand, shoulder loops, and pocket welts.

TABLE II. Manufacturing operations – Continued.

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

4.

Cont’d

b. Fuse the front edges of the outer-shell with the fusible front edge reinforcement piece.

5. Quilt liner cloth.

a. Cut liner from quilted nylon cloth in accordance with the patterns, which have placement of loop pile fasteners, and warp directional lines marked.

b. Quilt lining by placing insulating material between two layers of nylon taffeta and stitching along warp in rows 4 (±1/2) inches apart.

301 SSa-1 6-10

6. Make shoulder loops.

a. Join the under ply and the top ply of the shoulder loop around the side edges and the pointed end with a ¼ inch seam.

301 or 401 SSe-2(a) 10-14

b. Trim, turn, force out the edges and the pointed end. Press flat. Single stitch 1/4 inch from the edge. The shoulder loop shall be 2 (+ 1/8) inches wide at the armhole and 1-1/2 (+ 1/8) inches wide at the base of the point.

301 SSe-2(b) 10-14

7. Make collar.

a. Join the undercollar to the top collar around the top and the side edges.

301 or 401 SSe-2(a) 10-14

b. Trim, turn, force out the edges, and press flat.

c. Raise stitch collar 1/4 inch from the edge. 301 SSe-2(b) 10-14

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

8. Make collarstand and attach collar.

a. Place the collar between the top-collarstand and the under-collarstand as indicated by the notches on the patterns. Stitch from end to end along the top edge of the collarstand with a 1/4-inch seam.

301 SSq-2 10-14

b. Turn the top collarstand and the undercollarstand to the finished position. Raise stitch 1/16 inch to 1/8 inch from the turned edge with the stitching continued around the ends of the collarstand, through all plies, finishing 1/2 inch from the ends.

301 SSq-2 10-14

c. Finished width of collar at center back shall be 2-3/8 (±1/8) inches wide. Finished width of collarstand at center back shall be 1-5/8 (+ 1/8) inches wide.

9. Make and attach hanger loop.

a. Double stitch the hanger either with a cover stitch on the underside or with the edges folded under.

401 or 301 EFh-1 10-14

b. Turn under each end of the hanger; center it to the collarstand, and backstitch or bartack the folded ends. The finished hanger shall be 3/8 (±1/8) inch wide with a free opening 2-1/2 (±1/4) inches long between the bartack at the ends.

301 or bartack

LSd-1

10. Make outershell sleeves.

a. Join the forearm seam of the outer-shell sleeve.

301 SSa-1 10-14

b. Join the backarm seam of the outer-shell sleeve.

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

10.

c. Press seam open and flat.

11. Make sleeve linings.

a. Join the forearm seam of the sleeve lining. 301 SSa-1 10-14

b. Join the backarm seam of the sleeve lining. 301 SSa-1 10-14

c. Overedge stitch the raw edges of the shoulder seams together.

503 or 504 EFd-1 10-12

OR

d. The raw edges of the linings may be joined by seaming and overedge stitching in one operation.

515 or 516 or 517 or 518 or

SSa-2 10-14

e. Press seam smooth and flat.

12. Make darts.

a. Stitch each jacket dart, tapering to nothing at the point.

b. Press jacket darts flat and toward armhole.

c. Stitch each lining dart, tapering to nothing at the point.

d. Press lining dart flat with fold upwards toward chest.

13. Make slash pockets.

a. Make a single welt pocket in each front at the pattern marks. The welt shall be 7/8 (±1/8) inch wide and 6 (±1/8) inches long.

b. Fold in half lengthwise and press the two welt pieces.

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

13.

c. Turn under the inner edge of the two facing pieces and sew to each pocketing 1/16 inch from the edge.

301 LSd-1 10-14

d. Place the pocketing with the attached facing and the welt with the pocketing on top at the drill marks.

e. Sew the pieces on the fronts at the drill marks. 301 SSa-1 10-14

f. Cut the opening for the pocket. Tongue notch the corners.

g. Turn the pocketing and welt through the slits.

h. Raise stitch the bottom of the welt through the front and the pocketing with a single row of stitching 1/16 inch from the edge.

301 LSq-2(b) 10-14

i. Seam the tongues at the ends on the inside through the welt and the facing with a single row of stitching.

j. Raise stitch the seam joining front to facing to the opening and the ends of the opening through the slash pocket with a single row of stitching 1/16 inch from the edge.

301 LSq-2(b) 10-14

k. Sew around the pocketing with a single row of stitching 1/2 inch from the edge.

l. Bartack the corners of each pocket opening with a 3/4 inch bartack on the inside catching the tongues and welt.

Bartack 42 stitches per

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

14. Join outershell shoulder seams.

a. Join outershell front to outershell back at shoulder seams.

b. Press seam open and flat.

15. Join outershell side seams.

a. Join outershell front to outershell back at side seams.

b. Press seam open and flat.

16. Make and attach inside pocket.

a. Fold pocket in half width wise and stitch ½ inch from top folded edge.

b. Turn top of pocket, with the side and bottom even, press pocket flat.

c. Place pocket at pattern marks and attach to lining, at the folded edge of the pocket, attach 1/16 inch from the edge. Continue the stitching 3/16 to ¼ inch across the top of the patch pocket and ½ to 5/8 inch diagonally down to the line of the 1/16 inch stitching.

d. Finished pocket top opening shall measure as follows:

Sizes 6 through 12 – 4-3/8 (+ 1/8) inches.

Sizes 14 through 22 -4-3/4 (+ 1/8) inches.

17. Join the front facing to lining.

a. Join the front facing to the lining. 301 SSa-1 10-14

b. Press seam flat and toward side seam.

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

17.

Cont’d

OR

c. The raw edges of the front facing and lining may be joined by seaming and overedge stitching in one operation.

515 or 516 or 517 or 518 or

SSa-2 10-14

18. Join back neck facing to lining.

a. Turn the bottom raw edge of the back neck facing under 1/4 inch and press.

b. Place the back neck facing on the lining and edge stitch the neck bottom hem to the lining.

301 LSd-1 10-14

c. Press flat.

19. Attach labels.

a. Sew size label at center back, with top of label 1/4 inch above seam joining facing and lining.

Stitch label on all four sides.

b. Center the combination personal identification, identification and instruction label and sew to left (as worn) facing, 1/4 (+1/8) inch below the middle pile fastener tape.

20. Join lining shoulder seams.

a. Join front and back linings at shoulder. 301 or 401 SSa-1 10-14

b. Overedge stitch the raw edges of the shoulder seams together.

503 or 504 EFd-1 10-12

OR

c. The raw edges of the linings may be joined by seaming and overedge stitching in one operation.

515 or 516 or 517 or 518 or

SSa-2 10-14

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

21. Join lining side seams.

a. Join front and back linings at side seams. 301 or 401 SSa-1 10-14`

b. Overedge stitch the raw edges of the side seams together.

503 or 504 EFd-1 10-12

OR

c. The raw edges of the linings may be joined by seaming and overedge stitching in one operation.

515 or 516 or 517 or 518 or

SSa-1 10-14

d. Press seam smooth and flat and toward the back of the jacket.

22. Set sleeves and shoulder loops.

a. The shoulder loops shall be centered on the shoulder seams in accordance with the notches on the pattern and stitched to the armhole ¼ to 3/8 inch from collarstand seam.

b. Join the sleeves to the jacket, catching the shoulder loops in seam.

c. Press seam flat and toward sleeve

d. Attach shoulder loops to jacket, stitching from shoulder point to center point to shoulder loop point.

23. Attach sleeves to lining.

a. Join sleeve lining to lining body. 301 SSa-1 10-14

b. Overedge stitch the raw edges of the sleeve together.

503 or 504 EFd-1 10-12

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

23.

Cont’d

OR

c. The raw edges of the linings may be joined by seaming and overedge stitching in one operation.

515 or 516 or 517 or

SSa-2 12-14

24. Attach knit wristlet.

a. Finished cuff shall measure 3 (±1/8) inches wide.

b. Stitch knit cuff to outershell sleeve, stretching cuff to fit sleeve.

c. Stitch knit wristlet to sleeve linings, stretching wristlet to fit lining.

d. Fold cuff in half, bringing right sides together and cuff facing up toward sleeve.

e. Stitch cuff together along original stitching line.

f. Turn sleeve to right side.

25. Attach loop pile fastener tapes.

a. Hook and loop fasteners tapes shall be cut 1- 1/2 inches long.

b. Attach loop pile fastener tape to the jacket facing in accordance with pattern marks. Stitch on all four sides 1/16 inch from edge.

26. Attach zipper.

a. The zipper chain shall finish 3/8 (±1/8) inch below the finished edge of the neckline and the box shall be within 1/2 (±1/8) inch from the finished bottom.

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

26.

b. Position the zipper between the right and the left front edges of the outer shell and the facing.

Stitch through all plies.

301 LSq-2(a) 10-14

c. Turn and roll the front edge of the outershell out so that the chain is covered and stitch 3/8 to 1/2 inch from the folded outershell edge and 1/8 inch from the facing (see figure 1).

301 10-14

27. Hem bottom of jacket.

a. The bottom hem at the front shall be mitered so that it will not interfere with the slide fastener.

The width of the finished hem shall be 1 ±1/8 inches.

b. Turn up the bottom of the jacket with the raw edges turned under. Stitch 1/16 inch from folded edge, catching the lining and the lower edge of the slash pocket in the bottom hem a minimum of 3/8 inch, any excess pocketing cloth may be trimmed off.

301 EFb-1 12-14

c. As an alternate to turning under raw edge of bottom of jacket, the bottom raw edge of the jacket may be bound using bias binding.

28. Raise stitch knitted cuffs.

Raise stitch sleeve wristlet 1/4 inch above cuff. 301 SSa-1 10-14

29. Attach collar to jacket.

a. Stitch the under collarstand to the neck seam of the jacket.

b. Fold the lower edge of the top collarstand 3/8 inch and stitch through all plies 1/16 inch from folded edge.

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

30. Clean and press jacket.

a. The jacket shall be cleaned of all spots, stains, and loose threads shall be removed.

b. Jacket shall be pressed smooth and flat (see

3.9). Care shall be taken to remove gloss marks and creases.

31. Make liner.

a. Overedge stitch raw edges of shoulders and side seams.

503 or 504 EFd-1 10-12

b. Join the liner shoulder seams. 301 or 401 SSa-1 10-14

c. Join the liner side seams. 301 or 401 SSa-1 10-14

OR

d. The raw edges of the liner, shoulders and side seams, may be joined by seaming and overedge stitching in one operation.

515 or 516 or 517 or

SSa-2 10-12

OR

e. The raw edges of the liner, shoulders and side seams, may be finished with binding.

301 or 401 BSc-1 10-14

32. Attach hook fastener tape to liner.

Place the hook fastener tape on the wrong side of the liner, according to pattern marks. Stitch on all four sides, 1/16 inch from edge.

33. Attach labels to liner.

Center the size and combination personal identification, identification and instruction labels on the liner 1-1/2 inches below the finished neck edge. Stitch on all four sides (labels shall face the jacket outershell).

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

34. Bind outer edges of liner and armholes.

a. Bind edges of the fronts, back and armholes with bias-cut binding. Binding shall overlap at the sides.

301 or 401 BSc-1 10-14

b. Bartack binding at ends. Bartack 28 per

35. Clean liner.

The liner shall be cleaned of all spots and stains.

36. Attach liner to jacket outershell.

Attach liner by matching and applying pressure to engage hook and loop pile fastener tapes of liner and jacket, starting with the lower corner of the jacket

3.12 Fusing press operating procedures and conditions. A single layer of fusible interlining shall be fused to a single layer of basic material on a dry, electrically heated fusing press which has the capacity of controlling and retaining pressure, dwell time, and temperature for a minimum of eight

(8) hours. Pair or sandwich fusing which can create differential shrinkage, stitching, and uneven bonding shall not be permitted. A steam sourced fusing press shall not be allowed for any initial fusing operations. For optimum results, the fusible material manufacturers recommendations for fusing dwell time, pressure and temperature, based upon the fusing equipment used and basic material being fused, shall be utilized. Basic preproduction and production maintenance procedures, including a fusing press information chart, shall be required to assure proper fusing press performance relative to temperature control, evenness in pressure head or roller contact, dwell time and cleanliness.

3.13 Finished measurements. The finished jacket and liner shall conform to the measurements specified in Table III. When measuring, the jacket shall be placed flat upon a table with the slide fastener closed and liner removed. Alpha letters refer to the required measurement method for the finished measurements. (See measurement method listing below table)

TABLE III. Finished measurements (inches)

JACKET LINER

Size 1/2

Chest (A)

Back

(B)

Sleeve

(C)

Collar

(D)

1/2 Bottom

(E)

½ Chest

(F)

Back

(G) Short

6 19-3/4 20-5/8 14 13-1/2 18-1/4 18-1/2 18-5/8 8 20-1/2 20-3/4 14 14 19 19-1/4 18-3/4 10 21-1/4 20-7/8 14 14-1/2 19-3/4 20 18-7/8 12 22 21 14 15 20-1/2 20-3/4 19 14 22-3/4 21-1/8 14 15-1/2 21-1/4 21-1/2 19-1/8 16 23-1/2 21-1/4 14 16 22 22-1/4 19-1/4 18 24-1/4 21-3/8 14 16-1/2 22-3/4 23 19-3/8

Regular 6 19-3/4 21-5/8 15 13-1/2 18-1/4 18-1/2 19-5/8 8 20-1/2 21-3/4 15 14 19 19-1/4 19-3/4 10 21-1/4 21-7/8 15 14-1/2 19-3/4 20 19-7/8 12 22 22 15 15 20-1/2 20-3/4 20 14 22-3/4 22-1/8 15 15-1/2 21-1/4 21-1/2 20-1/8 16 23-1/2 22-1/4 15 16 22 22-1/4 20-1/4 18 24-1/4 22-3/8 15 16-1/2 22-3/4 23 20-3/8 20 25 22-1/2 15 17 23-1/2 23-3/4 20-1/2 22 25-3/4 22-5/8 15 17-1/2 24-1/4 24-1/2 20-5/8

Long 6 19-3/4 22-5/8 16 13-1/2 18-1/4 18-1/2 20-5/8 8 20-1/2 22-3/4 16 14 19 19-1/4 20-3/4 10 21-1/4 22-7/8 16 14-1/2 19-3/4 20 20-7/8 12 22 23 16 15 20-1/2 20-3/4 21 14 22-3/4 23-1/8 16 16 22 21-1/2 21-1/8 16 23-1/2 23-1/4 16 16 22 22-1/4 21-1/4 18 24-1/4 23-3/8 16 16-1/2 22-3/4 23 21-3/8 20 25 23-1/2 16 17 23-1/2 23-3/4 21-1/2 22 25-3/4 23-5/8 16 17-1/2 24-1/4 24-1/2 21-5/8

X-Long 8 20-1/2 24 17 14 19 19-1/4 22 10 21-1/4 24-1/8 17 14-1/2 19-3/4 20-1/4 22-1/8 12 22 24-1/4 17 15 20-1/2 20-3/4 22-1/4 14 22-3/4 24-3/8 17 15-1/2 21-1/4 21-1/2 22-3/8 16 23-1/2 24-1/2 17 16 22 22-1/4 22-1/2 18 24-1/4 24-5/8 17 16-1/2 22-3/4 23 22-5/8 20 25 24-3/4 17 17 23-1/2 23-3/4 22-3/4 22 25-3/4 24-7/8 17 17-1/2 24-1/4 24-1/2 22-7/8

Tolerance ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/4 ± 1/4 ± 1/2 ± 1/2

Measurement methods:

A. Jacket ½ Chest- Measure the 1/2 chest with slide fastener closed from folded edge to folded edge at base of armhole.

B Jacket Back- Measure back length at center back from collar setting seam to bottom edge of outershell.

C Jacket Sleeve-Measure sleeve length from base of armhole to end of sleeve outershell.

D. Jacket Collar -Measure collar length long inside from collar end to collar end across collarstand.

E Jacket ½ Bottom- Measure 1/2 bottom with slide fastener closed from folded edge to folded edge 1 inch above the bottom edge.

F. Liner ½ Chest - Measure 1/2 chest with the bound liner edges abutted from folded edge to folded edge at base of armhole.

G. Liner Back - Measure back length at center back from the top of the bound edge to the bottom of the liner bound edge.

3.14 Toxicity. The finished cap shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.4.4. The use of chemicals recognized by the EPA as human carcinogens are prohibited.

3.15 Workmanship. The finished jacket with liner shall conform to the quality established by this specification. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable point value of defect limit specified in the contract or purchase order.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article inspection. When a first article is required (see 3.1), it shall be examined for the applicable end item visual (4.3.3.2) and dimensional defects (4.3.3.1) in accordance with the sampling and inspection provisions of ASQ/ANSI Z1.4.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall include the examination and test specified in 4.3.1 through 4.3.3.2.

4.3.1 Component and material inspection. Components and materials shall be inspected in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this specification or applicable purchase document.

4.3.1.1 Component and material testing. The characteristics listed in Table IV shall conform to the specified requirements when tested as specified.

TABLE IV Component and material tests.

Component Characteristic Requirement Test method Basic material Spray rating 1/ 3.3.1

- Initial AATCC 22

- After 1 dry cleaning AATCC 22 and AATCC 158

Insulating material

Weight 3.3.3 ASTM D 3776/D3776 Thickness 3.3.3 ASTM 1777

Footnote:

1/ - Three determinations of the initial spray rating on each sample unit shall be equal to or better than 90, 90, and 90. Three determinations of the spray rating on each sample unit after 1 dry cleaning shall be equal to or better than 80, 80, and 80.

4.3.2 Adhesion testing of fusible. Prior to fusing each 1,000 parts, a sample of equivalent area to a part shall be fused for visual and adhesion testing. After visual examination for bubbling, delamination and bleed through, the sample shall be cut to a 1-inch width and peeled in the warp direction using a spring scale or suitable device capable of measuring the peel strength in ounces.

Any sample failing the minimum peel strength requirement specified in 3.3.5 or showing any bubbling, delamination or bleed-through shall be cause for rejection of the previous 1,000 fused parts. No fusing shall be performed after the rejection of a 1,000 part lot until the machine has been properly adjusted to produce a passing sample. The rejected lot shall then be replaced with a shade matched lot which has been fused correctly. Rejection of the previously fused parts shall not apply to the first sample tested after machine warm-up.

4.3.3 End item examination.

4.3.3.1 Dimensional examination. The finished jacket and liner shall be examined for conformance to the finished measurements specified in Table III. Any measurement deviating from the finished dimension specified in Table III or sleeve lengths of any jacket uneven 1/2 inch or more shall be classified as a defect. Sampling for inspection shall be in accordance with ASQ/ANSI Z1.4.

Defects shall not exceed the defect levels specified in the contract or purchase order.

4.3.3.2 Visual examination. The end item shall be examined for the defects listed in Table V.

The lot size shall be expressed in units of jackets. Sampling for inspection shall be in accordance with ASQ/ANSI Z1.4. Defects shall not exceed the defect levels specified in the contract or purchase order.

TABLE V. Defects.

DEFECT MAJOR MINOR

A B

1. Material defects and workmanship damages.

a. Any weakening defect such as hole, needle chew, scissor or knife cut, tear, mend, pull, snag, burn, smash, multiple float, or loose slub that might develop into hole:

(1). - Outside of jacket. 101 (2). - Inside of jacket. 201

b. Shade bar or unsightly slub/knot on outside of jacket. 102

c. Shade bar or unsightly slub/knot on inside of jacket (except sleeve linings).

d. Shade bar or unsightly slub/knot on sleeve linings. 301

e. One or more exposed drill holes. 103

2. Shaded parts.

a. Any visibly shaded parts on outside of jacket. 203

b. Any lining parts on inside of jacket, except sleeve linings, visibly shaded.

c. Any sleeve lining parts visibly shaded. 205

3. Cleanness.

a. Any spot or stain clearly noticeable:

(1). -outside of jacket. 205 (2). -inside of jacket. 302

b. One or more basting threads not removed. 303

c. Thread ends not trimmed throughout major portion of jacket or two or more shade tickets not removed.

4. Component and assembly.

a. Any defective component or defect of assembly (not classified herein).

TABLE V. Defects – Continued.

DEFECT MAJOR MINOR

A B

4.

Cont’d

b. Any component or required operation omitted (not otherwise specified herein).

c. Any component not cut in accordance with direction lines on patterns, not in accordance with specified pattern part, or not in accordance with specified cutting requirement.

5. Bartacks.

a .One bartack omitted, insecure, or misplaced not serving intended purpose.

b. Two or more bartacks omitted, insecure, or misplaced not serving intended purpose.

c. Any bartack not specified length. 307

6. Seams and stitchings.

a. Seam irregular, twisted, puckered, or pleated. 107

b. Part of jacket caught in any unrelated operation or stitching:

(1). - caught in up to, and including 1/4 inch of stitching. 207 (2). - caught in more than 1/4 inch of stitching. 108

c. Thread(s) used on outside of jacket not same or not satisfactorily matching shade of jacket.

d. Thread breaks or ends of stitching (if not caught in other seams or stitchings) not securely backtacked.

e. Looper thread of stitch type 401 exposed on outside of jacket.

f. Gage of stitching (edge, top, or raise stitching):

(1). - irregular, i.e., unevenly gaged or corresponding stitchings not uniformly gaged, affecting appearance.

(2). - not within range of gage specified or varying more than 1/16 inch if range is not specified.

6.

Cont’d

g. Open seam over 1/8 inch but not over 1/4 inch. 1/ 309

h. Open seam over 1/4 inch 1/ 212

i. Stitches skipped or broken (on edge, top, or raise stitching when seam is seamed, turned, and stitched): 1/

(1). - more than 1/4 inch but not more than 1/2 inch 310 (2). - more than 1/2 inch 213

j. Raw edges on outside of jacket: 2/

(1). - more than 1/8 inch but not more than 1/4 inch 311 (2). - more than 1/4 inch 214

k. Raw edges on inside of jacket: 2/

(1). - more than 1/2 inch but not more than 1 inch. 312 (2). - more than 1 inch 215

l. Run offs on edge, top, or raise stitching if not resulting in open seam (outside only): 3/

(1). - more than 1/2 inch but not more than 1 inch 313 (2). - more than 1 inch 216

m. Seam or stitch not specified type. 217

n. Loose tension resulting in loose seam. 109

o. Loose tension on edge, top, or raise stitching recognized by loosely exposed loops of top or lower thread.

p. Tight tension (stitches break when strain is applied in direction of seam or stitching).

q. Stitches per inch (to be scored only when the conditions exists on major portion or half the length of seam and stitching):

(1). - less than the minimum. 219 (2). - more than the maximum. 314

7. Collar and collarstand.

a. Collar tight at joining to neck seam causing puckers or pleats on fronts, back, or facings.

7.

b. Collar edge irregular. 221

c. Collar poorly shaped or not uniform shape or size. 222

d. Top collar width at center back less than 2-1/4 inches or more than 2-1/2 inches.

e. Top collar tight, i.e., causing edge of collar to curl or bulging on undercollar.

f. Top collar badly twisted, puckered, or excessive fullness. 224

g. Collarstand tight, puckered, or pleated at joining to top collar and undercollar or at neck seam causing puckers or pleats on fronts, back, or facings.

h. Finished width of collarstand at center back less than 1-5/8 inches or more than 1-7/8 inches.

8. Cuffs.

a. Cuff full or twisted, affecting appearance. 226

b. Width of finished cuff less than 2-7/8 inches or more than 3-1/8 inches.

c. Cuffs not specified class or color. 228

9. Bottom hem.

a. Jacket bottom puckered, twisted, or pleated by stitching forming bottom hem.

b. Width of finished bottom hem less than 7/8 inch or more than 1-1/8 inches.

10. Hanger Loop.

a. Hanger loop omitted or ends of hanger not securely backstitched or tacked.

10.

b. Length of hanger loop between tacks at ends less than 2- 1/4 inches or more than 2-3/4 inches.

c. Width of hanger loop less than 1/4 inch or more than 1/2 inch.

d. Hanger loop off center 1 inch or more with center of collarstand.

11 Labels.

a. Label missing or size marking omitted, incorrect, or illegible.

b. Information (except size) missing, incorrect, or illegible. 321

c. Label not stitched on four sides to front facing. 322

d. Label not in proper location. 323

12. Welt pockets.

a. Left and right welt pockets not in corresponding diagonal position with each other affecting appearance.

b. Welt pockets 1/2 inch or more out of alignment. 230

c. Length of welt pocket opening less than 5-7/8 inches or more than 6-1/8 inches.

d. Width of welt less than 3/4 inch or more than 1 inch. 324

13. Sleeves.

a. Sleeve sagging, twisted, bulging, or short. 114

b. Sleeve fullness misplaced or concentrated in one area. 232

c. Sleeve lining too long, causing lining to sag at bottom. 233

14. Shoulder loops.

a. Upper side of shoulder loop full, puckered, or twisted, affecting appearance.

b. Shoulder loop poorly shaped, affecting appearance. 235

c. Shoulder loop misplaced so that shoulder seam is exposed or does not lie flat causing bulge or twist on shoulder loop.

d. Shoulder loop misplaced, i.e., one shoulder loop further forward or back from position of other shoulder loop, affecting appearance.

e. Shoulder loop long, i.e., point extending beyond collar crease line.

f. Width of shoulder loop at neck less than 1-3/8 inches or more than 1-5/8 inches.

g. Width of shoulder loop at armhole end less than 1-7/8 inches or more than 2-1/8 inches.

15. Side seams, fronts, and front closure.

a. Length of closed fronts uneven at neck 1/4 inch or more or at bottom 1/4 inch or more.

b. Zipper tape set on too loosely or too tightly causing excessive bulging or distortion on opening, affecting appearance open or closed.

c. Zipper not specified type, size, or style or any part of assembly omitted, bent, or broken.

d. Zipper exposed more than 1/16 inch or gapping more than 1/16 inch when closed.

e. Jacket part stitched too close to metal chain not permitting slider to pass.

15.

Cont’d

f. Top end of zipper chain more than 3/4 inch from raw edge of neckline.

g. Top end of zipper chain less than 1/2 inch from raw edges of neckline.

h. Front covered zipper distorted, puckered, or not presenting a flat appearance.

16. Fusible material.

a. Omitted in pocket welts, collar, collarstand, or shoulder loops.

b. Delamination of fused components:

(1). - partial or complete delamination on any fused component.

(2). - bubbling on any fused component. 122

c. Any strike through or bleed through. 123

d. Any resin transfer to jacket:

(1). - on any fused component. 124 (2). - non-fused component. 125

17. Hook and loop pile fastener tapes.

a. Hook and loop pile fastener tapes:

(1). - omitted from jacket or liner. 125 (2). - out of alignment with marks on pattern by 1/4 inch or more.

18. Liner.

a. Size shown on liner not same as jacket. 325

b. Liner tight or short causing puckering of jacket. 127

c. Ends of binding not caught in bartack or stitching. 326

d. Fabric not securely caught in binding. 244

18.

Cont’d

e. Fronts uneven in length by more than 3/4 inch. 245

f. Finished width of binding not as specified. 327

g. Ends of binding overlapped less than 1/2 inch. 328

Footnotes:

1/ A break in a line of stitching or continuous skipped or run-off stitches (except on edge, top, or raise stitching) shall be classified as an open seam.

2/ A raw edge shall be classified as such when it occurs along an edge required to be turned under and the edge is securely caught in the stitching, however if the edge has been cut, torn, slashed, or slit it shall be classified as an open seam.

3/ Run offs on joining seams, if resulting in an open seam, shall be classified as an open seam.

4.4.4 Toxicity test. When required, an acute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted. When the results of these studies indicate the material is not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in accordance with the Modified Draize Procedure (see 2.3). If toxicity requirement (see 3.14) can be demonstrated with historical use data, toxicity testing may not be required (see 6.2).

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of materiel is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The lightweight jacket with removable liner is intended to be worn by female personnel of the Department of the Air Force.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number, and date of this specification.

b. Length and size required (see 1.2).

c. When a first article is required (see 3.1).

d. Packaging requirements (see 5.1).

6.3 Samples. For access to shade samples, address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids (see 3.3).

6.4 Changes from previous issue Marginal notations are not used in this revision to identify changes with respect to the previous issue due to the extensiveness of the changes.

6.5 Subject term (key word) listing.

Uniform Dress Liner

THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY LEFT BLANK

FIGURE 1. Jacket (Front and back views).

FIGURE 2. Liner (Front and back views).

Custodians: Preparing activity:

DLA-CT

Air Force – 11 (Project No. 8410-2019-008)

DLA-CT

NOTE: The activities listed above were interested in this document as of the date of this document.

Since organizations and responsibilities can change, you should verify the currency of the information above using the ASSIST Online database at https://assist.dla.mil.