GL PD 15-07A 2-15-2018.pdf

INCH-POUND

GL-PD-15-07A

15 February 2018

SUPERSEDING

GL-PD-15-07

24 August 2016

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

PARKA, SNOW CAMOUFLAGE

This document is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense (DoD).

1. SCOPE.

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for the Snow Camouflage Parka. This item is intended for wear during bivouac, rest and sentry activities in snow covered conditions by military personnel of the Department of Defense (DoD).

1.2 Classification. This purchase description covers the Parka, Snow Camouflage in the following sizes and lengths.

1.2.1 Size. The parka is as follows in six (6) sizes:

Schedule of Sizes.

Size: SMALL MEDIUM LARGE XLARGE Length: Regular Regular Regular Regular

- Long Long -

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in Sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in Sections 3 and 4 of this specification whether or not they are listed.

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Department of the Army, Natick Soldier Research, Development and Engineering Center, 10 General Greene Avenue, Natick MA 01760-5019. ATTN: RDNS-SES-WC.

AMSC N/A FSC 8415

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL SPECIFICATIONS

V-B-871 - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button Staple, (Plastic)

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50199 - Thread, Poly Core: Cotton or Polyester-Covered A-A-55126 - Fastener Tape, Hook and Loop, Synthetic A-A-55634 - Zippers (Fasteners, Slide Interlocking) A-A-59826 - Thread Nylon

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-B-371 - Braid Textile, Tubular MIL-C-43303 - Cord, Elastic, Cotton MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusible MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use)

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://quicksearch.dla.mil)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those specified in the solicitation or contract.

DRAWINGS

U.S. ARMY NATICK SOLDIER RESEARCH, DEVELOPMENT, AND ENGINEERING

CENTER

2-1-2564 Snow Pattern 2-6-1014 Barrel Lock with Keeper

(Copies of these drawings are available from the U.S. Army Natick Soldier Research Development and Engineering Center, ATTN: RDNS-SES-WC, 10 General Greene Avenue, Natick, MA 01760-5019.)

DOCUMENTS AND PUBLICATIONS

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION

http://quicksearch.dla.mil/

Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act

(Copies of this document are available online at http://www.ftc.gov.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, AATCC 9 Step Chromatic Transference Scale Rating AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles AATCC Test Method 8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method AATCC Test Method 15 - Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC Test Method 16.2 - Colorfastness to Light: Carbon Arc AATCC Test Method 16.3 - Colorfastness to Light: Xenon AATCC Test Method 22 - Water Repellency: Spray Rating AATCC Test Method 61 - Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated AATCC Test Method 70 - Water Repellency: Tumble Jar Dynamic Absorption Test AATCC Test Method 118 - Oil Repellency: Hydrocarbon Resistance Test AATCC Test Method 135 - Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering

(Copies of these documents are available on line at http://www.aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies of this document are available online at http://www.asq.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D737 - Standard Test Method for Air Permeability, of Textile Fabrics ASTM D1388 - Standard Test Method for Stiffness of Fabrics ASTM D1424 - Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling Pendulum Type (Elmendorf) Apparatus ASTM D1776/D1776M - Standard Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles ASTM D3776/D3776M - Standard Test Method for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric ASTM D5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test) ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://www.astm.org.)

http://www.ftc.gov/ http://www.aatcc.org/ http://www.asq.org/ http://www.astm.org/

Fabric Defect Replica Scales (are available online at http://www.sdlatlas.com.) (See 6.5)

HEALTHCARE INFORMATION

Repeat Insult Patch Test - Modified Draize Procedure – Principles and Methods of Toxicology, A Wallace Hayes (editor).

(Copies are available online at https://www.crcpress.com.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Standard sample. The finished parka shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance, and shall, unless otherwise indicated, be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6.4).

3.3 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.4 Design. The parka shall have a button down front closure, two (2) front pass through pocket openings, elasticized sleeve hems, drawcord at waist, two (2) drawcord systems at bottom hem and a hood with tie closure (see Figure 1). The parka shall have one (1) integrated self-storage zippered pocket pouch positioned on the inside of the right front pass through openings.

The pouch is stitched to the front of the garment (not free hanging) facing forward (see Figures 2 and 3).

3.4.1 Figures. Figures 1 through 3 are furnished for informational purposes only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written document and the figures, the written document shall govern.

3.5 Material.

3.5.1 Basic material. The cloth for the parka shall be 100 percent (%) polyester; 50 denier in the warp direction and 70 denier in the filling direction.

3.6 Color.

http://www.sdlatlas.com/

3.6.1 Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the cloth specified in 3.5 shall match the standard sample when tested as specified in 4.7.3.

3.6.2 Colorfastness. The finished cloth referenced in 3.5 shall conform to the colorfastness requirements listed in Table I unless otherwise specified in the contract or procurement documents when tested as specified in 4.6 and 4.7.2.

TABLE I. Colorfastness requirements.

Colors Evaluation

Laundering Color Change and Staining

(4 cycles) (min.)

Light (40 AFU or 170 kJ/(m2nm)

@420 nm) (min.) 1/

Perspiration (acid & alkaline)

Color Change and Staining) (min.)

Crocking Dry/Wet

(min.)

All colors 3.0 3.0 3.0 4.0 1/ AATCC Fading Units (AFU)

3.6.3 Dyeing/printing of cloth. The cloth shall be dyed to match the ground shade White Snow 506 and the remaining three (3) colors shall be printed for the Light Snow Gray 507, Medium Snow Gray 508, and Dark Snow Gray 509 areas of the drawing. When the ground shade is not dyed to match the White Snow 506, then all four (4) colors of the camouflage pattern shall be printed to match all four (4) colors of the drawing.

3.7 Camouflage pattern execution. The pattern on the printed finished cloth shall reproduce the standard sample in respect to design, colors and registration of the respective areas. The various areas of the pattern shall be properly registered in relation to each other and shall present definite sharp demarcations with a minimum of feathering or spew. Each pattern area shall show solid coverage. Skitteriness exceeding that shown by the standard sample in any of the printed areas will not be acceptable. A pattern drawing shall be provided and the pattern on the finished cloth shall match that of the drawing 2-1-2564, Snow Pattern (see 2.2.2). The pattern repeat of the camouflage printed finished cloth shall be 60 (± 1.50) inches wide by 36 (± 1.50) inches long.

3.8 Spectral reflectance. The spectral reflectance values for the Snow Pattern shall conform to the requirements listed below, in Table II, when tested as specified in 4.7.4. Reflectance values for Dark Snow Gray 509 are not required.

TABLE II. Spectral reflectance requirements.

Reflectance values (percent) Wavelengths

Nanometers (nm) 0BWhite Snow 506 Light Snow Gray 507 Medium Snow Gray 508 Min. Max. Min. Max. Min. Max.

600 80 98 46 66 28 36 620 80 98 47 66 30 40 640 78 98 48 66 30 44 660 78 98 49 68 34 44 680 78 98 50 72 36 48 700 78 98 51 72 40 56 720 78 98 52 72 40 56 740 78 98 53 72 42 56 760 78 98 54 72 44 56 780 78 98 55 74 46 58 800 78 98 56 74 46 60 820 78 98 57 76 48 64 840 76 99 58 76 48 66 860 76 99 59 76 50 66

3.9 Physical requirements. The finished cloth for the parka shall conform to the requirements, listed in Table III, when tested as specified in 4.6.

TABLE III. Physical properties.

Physical Property Requirement Weight (oz. per square yard) 2.0 (± 0.2) Tear strength, pounds (minimum) Initially: Warp Filling After five (5) Launderings:

Warp Filling

6.0 8.0

4.7 6.2

Breaking strength, pounds (minimum)

Air permeability, cu.ft./min./sq.ft. (maximum) 63 Stiffness, inches (maximum)

3.0 2.0

TABLE III. Physical properties. - Continued

Physical Property Requirement Spray rating (Face) Initially After 20 launderings

100, 100, 90

100, 90, 90 Resistance To Organic Liquids

Pass Pass

Dynamic absorption, percent, (maximum) After one (1) laundering

2.5 2.5

3.9.1 Finish. The cloth shall be water repellent treated and meet the requirements as specified in Table III when tested as specified in Table IX.

3.10 pH. The pH of the water extract of the finished (cloth) shall be no less than 5.0 nor more than 8.5 when tested as specified in Table IX.

3.11 Dimensional stability. The shrinkage or elongation of the finished cloth shall not be greater than 2.0 percent for the warp direction and not greater than 1.5 percent for the filling direction when tested as specified in Table IX.

3.12 Toxicity. The finished parka shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.7.6. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

3.13 Length and put-up. For Government procurements only, unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the cloth shall be furnished in continuous lengths, each not less than 40 yards. Each length shall be put-up full width on a roll as specified in the contract.

3.14 Fiber identification. Each roll of finished cloth shall be labeled or ticketed for fiber content in accordance with the Rules and Regulations under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (see 2.2.2).

3.15 Components.

3.15.1 Thread. The thread for the button shall be cotton or polyester covered as specified in A-A-50199. Both the needle and bobbin (looper) shall use Tex 61-70, non-wicking finish. All other seaming and stitching shall use nylon, Class B – Non-wicking (Type I and Type II), Tex 45 of A-A-59826 for both the needle and bobbin (looper). As an alternate, Class B, Tex 30 of A-A- 59826, may be used as the bobbin (looper) thread. The color of all threads shall be white to match the ground shade of the basic material.

3.15.2 Braid (drawcord). The parka braid (drawcord) for the hood, bottom hem, and waist shall conform to Type IV, Class 2 of MIL-B-371 or equal. The color of all braids (drawcord) shall be white to match the ground shade of the basic material. The length of the drawcord may vary by size and the finished length of the exposed drawcord shall be 4 (± 1/2)-inches to enable gloved hands to tie securely (measured when garment is laying flat). Drawcord ends shall be knotted and dipped to prevent unraveling.

3.15.2.1 Eyelets. The eyelets for the hood shall be large enough to accommodate the drawcord in 3.15.2 and for stability shall be backed with interlining when automatic machine stitching is utilized.

3.15.3 Elastic cord. The elastic cord for the wrist shall conform to Class 2 of MIL-C-43303 or equal. The elastic shall be sufficient for continuous expansion and relaxation when being used, and shall allow for comfort at the wrist. The color of the cord shall be white to match the ground shade of the basic material.

3.15.4 Buttons. The buttons for the parka shall be in accordance with V-B-871, Type II, Class D, Style 20, 21, or 26, Lines 45 or equal. The buttons shall be white with a dull finish, in accordance with standard sample. When attached to the parka, the button and thread shall withstand a pull test of 40 pounds (min.), when tested as specified in 4.7.1. The buttons shall be attached with “X” stitch.

3.15.4.1 Buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be keyhole style tapered bar with a 1 to 1 1/8-inch cut opening and 52-56 stitches per inch. The buttonhole purling shall be on the outside of the parka.

3.15.5 Slide fasteners. The stow away pocket slide fasteners on the parka shall be in accordance with A-A-55634, Type II, non-separating, reversible, style 3, size 3-4, (crosswise breaking strength of 80 pounds), short tab pull, continuous element fastener (CEF) and with water repellent treatment tape. The slide fastener tab shall have a hole large enough to accommodate a 3-inch thong on each tab. The tape, slider and thong shall be white to match the ground shade of the basic material.

3.15.6 Barrel lock cord closure. The drawcord closure for the waist shall be a plastic barrel lock type in accordance with drawing 2-6-1014, Barrel Lock with Keeper (see 2.2.2). The barrel lock shall be white to match the ground shade of the basic material with locking and unlocking capabilities.

3.15.7 Interlining. The interlining shall conform to MIL-C-44296, Type V, Style B, and Classes 1, 2, 3 or 4 or equal. Fusible shall be tested for bonding strength in accordance with MIL-C-44296, with the exception of no dry cleaning. The laundering shall be in accordance Table VIII. Any evidence of bubbling, puckering, delamination, wrinkling or strike through on small parts interlining after three (3) laundering cycles shall be considered a failure (see Table IX). The interlining shall be white to match the ground shade of the basic material.

3.15.8 Fastener tape, hook and loop. The hook and loop fastener tapes for closure on the parka pass through openings shall be white to match the ground shade of the basic material and 1-inch wide. The hook shall conform to Type IV, Class 4 of A-A-55126, and the loop shall conform to Type I, Class 4 of A-A-55126. The hook tape shall be cut 1 (±1/16) inches in length and the loop tape shall be cut 1-1/2 (± 1/16) inches in length. Hook and loop will be placed on parka according to pattern markings. Cut edges shall be finished to prevent raveling. Stitching shall not be closer than 3/16-inch to a selvage edge.

3.16 Labels. Each parka shall have a combination size, identification, and instruction label conforming to the requirements of Type VI, Class 14 of MIL-DTL-32075. The label color shall be white to match the ground color of the parka material. The label shall be located to the right back, positioned not more than 1-inch below hood joining seam and 1/2-inch away from center back-seam of the parka.

3.16.1 Parka size information. The following information for each parka corresponding size shall be included in the label.

Parka Size Label Information

Small Regular Chest: Up to 37 inches Height: 71 inches or less

NSN: XXXX-XX-XXX-XXXX

Medium Regular Chest: 37 to 41 inches Height: 71 inches or less

NSN: XXXX-XX-XXX-XXXX

Medium Long Chest: 37 to 41 inches Height: Greater than 71 inches

NSN: XXXX-XX-XXX-XXXX

Large Regular Chest: 41 to 45 inches Height: 71 inches or less

NSN: XXXX-XX-XXX-XXXX

Large Long Chest: 41 to 45 inches Height: Greater than 71 inches

NSN: XXXX-XX-XXX-XXXX

X Large Regular Chest: Over 45 inches Height: 71 inches or less

NSN: XXXX-XX-XXX-XXXX

SPACE LEFT INTENTIONALLY BLANK

3.16.2 Instruction label. The parka instruction label shall include the following information:

PARKA USE AND CARE INSTRUCTIONS

1. For camouflage only – not a substitute for outer garment.

2. Wear hood over all headgear including helmet.

3. Brush off snow and frost before entering heated shelters.

4. Machine/hand washing. Use Permanent Press Cycle. Wash in warm water and use mild detergent. To prevent degradation of snow camouflage, do not use detergents with optical brighteners. Wash garment separate from any dark colors.

5. Hand washing. Wash in warm water using mild detergent that does not contain optical brighteners. Rinse in clean warm water.

6. Rinse at least 3 times to restore water repellency.

7. Dry at low heat (Do not exceed 90oF) or hang to dry.

8. DO NOT USE CHLORINE BLEACH OR STARCH.

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

3.16.3 Bar code label/hang tag. Each Parka shall have a bar coding label/hangtag in accordance with Type VIII, Class 17 of MIL-DTL-32075. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit National Stock Number (NSN). There shall be a 12 digit Universal Product Code (UPC) number assigned for all NSNs by the contracting activity. The initials “UPC” must appear beneath the code. The barcode for NSN and UPC type shall be a medium to high density and shall be located on slide fastener thong completely visible on the parka when folded and packed.

The tags shall have a hole and shall be attached to each parka by a fastener. The tags shall be clearly legible and readable by a scanner.

3.17 Construction (Patterns, stitches, seams and stitching).

3.17.1 Patterns. The Government shall furnish a complete set of patterns or a master pattern with grade rules to maintain uniformity and consistency in manufacturing. The Government patterns shall be used to create the contractor’s working patterns. Minor pattern modifications are permitted to accommodate manufacturing procedures; however the design and finished measurements must be obtained. Pattern guidelines shall not be modified. Adhesive patterns are prohibited. Pattern parts shall be as listed in Table IV.

TABLE IV. Parka pattern parts.

Material Pattern Nomenclature Pattern

Abbreviation Cut Parts

Basic Material (3.5.1)

FRONT PD15_07-FRONT 2

BACK PD15_07-BACK 2

SLEEVE PD15_07-SLEEVE 2

HAND OPEN WELT TOP PD15_07-HND-OPN-WLTP 2

HAND OPEN WELT BOTTOM PD15_07-HND-OP-WLBTM 2

STORAGE POUCH PD15_07-STRG-POUCH 2

WAIST TUNNEL PD15_07-WAIST-TUNNEL 2

HOOD PD15_07-HOOD 2

HOOD FACING PD15_07-HOOD-FACNG 2

POUCH ZIPPER END PD15_07-ZIPPER-END 2

Interlining (3.15.7)

FRONT FACING INTERLINING PD15_07-FRT-FC-INT 2

HAND OPEN WELT TOP INTERLINING HAND OPEN WLT TOP IN 2

HAND OPEN WELT BOTTOM INTERLINING HAND OPEN WLT BTM IN 2

3.17.2 Stitches and seams. Seaming shall be consistent, exhibit a uniform appearance and shall conform to the ASTM D6193 for stitch and seam types as specified in Table V. The backside of all seams (inside garments) shall be flat with no protruding seam allowance or raw edges to create irritation or discomfort. To maintain durability and functionality the seams shall be sewn with 10-14 stitches per inch for all outside visible stitching. Over-edge or pre-hemming shall be 6 - 10 stitches per inch. Bartacks and back-tacks shall be as specified in 3.17.3 and Table VI.

TABLE V. Stitch and seam requirements.

Seam Placement Seam Type 1BGage Stitch Type Join inseams, outseams, armholes, center back, and sleeve seams

LSbm-3 or LSc-2

3/16 – 9/32-inch gage

514 or 516 and single needle 301 or 301 or 401

Zipper end piece LSf-1 1/16 to 1/8-inch from folded edges

Hook and Loop Fastener tape LSbj-1 3/16-inch minimum from edge 301 or 401 Attach labels LSbj-1 1/16 to 3/32-inch from edges 301 Hem. Finished hem shall be 1-3/8 (± 1/8)-inch.

Efb-1 1/16 to 1/8-inch from folded edges

3.17.3 Bar-tacks and back-tacks. To maintain durability and functionality, bar-tacks shall be placed as specified in Table VI. Nominal lengths and stitches per tack shall also be as specified in Table VI. Bartacks are required at reinforcement points of joined fabrics, at the midpoint of drawcord length (see Figures 1 through 3). Bartack position at waistband shall not prevent functioning of drawcord or elastic. All backstitching shall be three (3) stiches back and forth.

Raw edges may be turned-in, or turned-under or surged to prevent raveling. No raw edges allowed.

TABLE VI. Bar-tack and back-tack placement.

Bar-tack or back-tack placement

Size of tack

(inches)

Stitches per tack 1/

# of Bar-tacks per garment

# of Back-tacks per garment

Horizontal Vertical

Hood Visor next to center seam through all layers 1/2 ---- 1 ---- ---- X

Side seam at garment hem 1/2 ---- 2 ---- ---- X Pass through pocket opening 1 ---- 4 ---- ---- X Back vent at hem; left, right and at center seam

1/2 ---- 3 ---- X ----

Center front Hem 1/2 ---- 2 ---- X ----

Barrel lock keeper with webbing 3/8 ---- 4 ---- ---- X

Ends of hood 1/2 ---- ---- 2 X ----

Hood Tab 1 ---- 1 4 X ----- Sleeve hem at underarm seam 1/2 ---- ---- 2 X ----

Top of button placket on both sides 1/2

2 X

1/ The tolerance shall be (± 2) stitches per tack.

3.18 Finished dimensions. Finished dimensions for the parka shall be as specified in Table VII (see 4.7.5).

TABLE VII. Parka finished dimensions (inches).

Size 1/2 Face Open 1/

Sleeve Length 2/

1/2 Chest 3/

Back Length 4/

Vent Length 5/

1/2 Wrist Opening 6/

Small Regular 17-1/2 25-7/8 26-1/2 32-1/2 2-1/2 4-1/2 Medium Regular 17-1/2 26 28-1/2 33 2-1/2 4-1/2 Large Regular 17-1/2 26-1/8 30-1/2 33-1/2 2-1/2 4-1/2 X-Large Regular 17-1/2 26-1/4 32-1/2 34 2-1/2 4-1/2 Medium Long 17-1/2 27 28-1/2 35 2-1/2 4-1/2 Large Long 17-1/2 27-1/8 30-1/2 35-1/2 2-1/2 4-1/2 Tolerance (± 1/2) (± 1/2) (± 1/2) (± 1/2) (± 3/8) (± 1/4) 1/ With the hood folded in half lengthwise align the measuring tape edge parallel with the straight area of the hood opening. Face opening measurement is the distance from the top edge of the folded hood to the neck seam.

2/ Measure from center of sleeve setting seam at shoulder to bottom edge of sleeve.

3/ With all closures engaged measure across front at base of armhole, from folded edge to folded edge.

4/ Measure from center of hood joining seam to top of vent opening.

5/ Measure from the top of vent to bottom of parka.

6/ Measure across wrist from folded edge to folded edge. NOTE: this is a half wrist opening.

3.18.1 Parka pocket opening dimensions. The finished pass through pocket openings for all sizes shall be 8-1/2-inches (± 1/2) inch (see 4.7.5.1).

3.18.2 Methods of measurement. The measurements in Table VII shall be taken in accordance with the footnotes in Table VII. The Parka shall be buttoned at the front placket and placed flat upon a table for measuring.

3.19 Workmanship. After completion of the final assembly, the parka shall be thoroughly cleaned and all thread scraps, lint and foreign matter shall be removed and all closures engaged prior to packaging. The Parka shall be uniform in quality and shall be free from irregularities or defects which could adversely affect fit, performance, reliability or durability. The parka shall conform to the quality established by this purchase description.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article inspection. A first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1.1, shall be inspected, examined for appearance, color and finished defects in Table VIII, and tested for the characteristics as specified in 4.6, Table IX.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Unless otherwise, specified, conformance inspection shall include the examination of 4.4 and the tests of 4.5 through 4.7 as applicable.

4.3.1 Conformance inspection samples. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 and with acceptance quality limits as specified in the contract and/or order, except where otherwise indicated (see 6.2).

4.4 Inspection conditions. Unless otherwise specified, all inspections shall be performed in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents, unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this specification or applicable procurement documents (see 6.2).

4.5 Visual examination. The parka shall be examined for the defects listed in Table VIII.

TABLE VIII. End item visual defects

Examine Defect Classification Major Minor

Material Any hole, cut, tear, smash, burn, drill hole Spot, stain, or streak more the 1-inch in combined dimensions Abrasion mark, open place, broken or missing yarn, multiple floats, misweave, knot or slub Unwanted permanent fold, pleat or crease in fabric or item affecting appearance or serviceability

Components and assembly

Any component omitted or misplaced, distorted, full, tight, twisted; any part caught in any unrelated stitching Any operation omitted, added, or not properly performed or functioning Any visible mend or patch Any burn Needle chew Buttonhole cut opening less than 1-inch or greater than 1-1/8-inch Drawcord exposed ends less than 3.5-inches Drawcord ends not knotted and dipped

Seams and stitches type

Wrong seam or stich type Loose or tight tension resulting in loosely secured seam or stitching Puckered, distorted, pleated, wavy, twisted, irregular or open seam affecting appearance or serviceability Seam allowance not as specified Broken or missing thread or stitch, edge or raised stitching sewn too close to edge resulting in damage to cloth, visible raw edge

Stitches per inch One (1) or more stiches less or more than specified in document

Stitching ends Backstitched or overstitched less than 1/2-inch

Excessive thread ends not trimmed or removed

TABLE VIII. End item visual defects. - Continued

Examine Defect Classification Major Minor

Bartacks/Backtacks Bartacks missing, insecure, misplaced, not specified size, stitches loose or broken, backtack not serving intended purpose.

Bartack placement interferes with elastic stretch.

Bartack at drawcord center point does not secure drawcord position.

Color/Shade Shade variation within a part or between parts Color not as specified

Cleanness Spot, stains, odor affecting appearance or serviceability

Label Omitted, incorrect, illegible, misplaced, or size of characters not as specified

Bar code label Bar code omitted, or not readable by scanner, human-readable interpretation (HRI) omitted, or illegible, Bar code not visible on folded, packaged item Bar code attachment causes damage to the item

4.6 Material and end item testing. The cloth shall be tested for the characteristics listed in Table IX and 4.7. The methods of testing as specified wherever applicable and as listed in Table IX shall be followed. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final results. The sample unit shall be five (5) continuous yards full width of the finished cloth for all physical and chemical tests. The lot shall be unacceptable if one (1) or more sample units or the lot average for dimensional stability fail to meet any requirement specified. The sample size shall be in accordance with the following:

Lot size (yards) Sample size (sample units) 800 or less 2 801 up to and including 22,000 3 22,001 and over 5

TABLE IX. Material testing.

Characteristic Requirement

Reference Test Method

Basic Material Visual shade matching 3.6.1 4.7.3 Colorfastness (see 4.7.2):

Laundering (after four (4) cycles) (Color change & Staining) Light (after 40 hrs or 170 kJ/(m2nm)@420nm) Perspiration (acid & alkaline) Crocking (Wet & Dry)

3.6.2 & Table I

AATCC 61 Test 1A 1/, 2/

AATCC 16.2 or 16.3 3/

AATCC 15 2/

AATCC 8 4/

Spectral reflectance 3.8 & Table II 4.7.5 Weight (oz. per square yard) 3.9 & Table III ASTM D3776/D3776M Tear Strength Initial After five (5) Launderings

3.9 & Table III ASTM D1424

AATCC 135 5/ & ASTM D1424

Breaking strength 3.9 & Table III ASTM D5034 Air Permeability 3.9 & Table III ASTM D737 Stiffness 3.9 & Table III ASTM D1388, Option A Spray Rating

After 20 Launderings

3.9 & Table III

AATCC 22

AATCC 135 5/, 6/, 7/ & AATCC 22

Resistance To Organic Liquids

3.9 & Table III

AATCC 118

AATCC 135 5/, 6/, 7/ & AATCC 118

Dynamic Absorption 3.9 & Table III AATCC 70

AATCC 135 & AATCC 70 5/, 6/, 7/, 8/

pH 3.10 AATCC 81 Dimensional stability (after 1 cycle) 3.11 AATCC 135 5/ Toxicity 3.12 4.7.7 Interlining Bubbling, puckering, delamination, wrinkling or strike through After three (3) launderings

3.15.7

AATCC 135 9/ and visual

1/ Only the stain on the polyester fibers of the color transfer cloth shall be evaluated.

2/ Rated using AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining and AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Staining 3/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change 4/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale 5/ Laundered using Permanent Press cycle; 105oF (± 5oF); tumble dry, permanent press 6/ Specimen shall be subjected to 20 complete cycles (wash and dry) prior to determinations of dynamic absorption, spray rating and resistance to organic liquid after laundering. The last two (2) wash cycles shall be performed without the addition of detergent.

7/ Immediately after tumble drying the specimens shall be laid out, without tension or pressing, on a flat surface in standard atmosphere until moisture equilibrium is reached, ASTM D1776/D1776M.

8/ Using Standard Test Liquid 5, n-dodecane 9/ Laundered using permanent press cycle; 140oF (± 5oF); tumble dry on permanent press.

4.7 Methods of testing and evaluation.

4.7.1 Button pull test. The button attached to the Parka shall meet the requirements stated in

3.15.4 when tested according to ASTM D5034, except slide button on top of 1-inch wide grips separated at least 3/8-inch so that button loosely rests evenly on top of grips. Use manually adjusted grips only, not pneumatic. Place button attachment stitching in middle of bottom grips and adjust an additional 3/8-inch down so that the grips grab fabric just below stitching, not on the stitching. Run tensile machine per test method and record force required to pull button from sewn garment.

4.7.2 Colorfastness evaluation testing. When testing for colorfastness properties, each color shall be evaluated, whenever possible, separately and reported as such. In cases where the print pattern does not allow for the evaluation of each color separately, the test results should indicated which colors were evaluated together.

4.7.3 Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the parka shall match the standard sample when viewed using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option A, with sources simulating artificial daylight D75 illuminant with a color temperature of 7500K (± 200) illumination of 100 (±20) foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent A illuminant with a color temperature of 2856K (± 200).

4.7.4 Spectral reflectance test. Spectral reflectance data shall be obtained from 600 to 860 nanometers (nm) at 20 nm intervals on a spectrophotometer relative to the polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) family of compounds, the preferred white standard. Other white reference materials may be used provided they are calibrated to absolute white or vitrolite tiles.

The spectral band width shall be less than 20 nm at 860 nm. Reflectance measurements shall be made by either the monochromatic or polychromatic mode of operation. When the poly-chromatic mode of operation is used, the spectrophotometer shall operate with the specimen diffusely illuminated with the full emission of a continuous source that simulates either CIE Source A or CIE Source D65. Measurements shall be taken on a minimum of two (2) different areas and the data averaged. The measured areas should be at least 6-inches away from the selvage. The specimen shall be measured as a single layer backed with six (6) layers of the same fabric and shade. The specimen shall be viewed at an angle no greater than 10º from normal, with the specular component included. Specimens shall be oriented in different directions during testing. When possible, the specimens tested shall not contain the same warp or filling yarns when presented to the same port. Reflectance measurements shall be taken using an aperture size of 1.0 to 1.25-inch in diameter for Snow Pattern Camouflage. Photometric accuracy of the spectrophotometer shall be within one (1) percent and wavelength accuracy within two (2) nm.

Any color having spectral reflectance values falling outside the limits at four (4) or more of the wavelengths specified shall be considered a test failure.

4.7.5 Finished dimension examination. The end item shall be measured for conformance to the final dimensions specified in Table VII.

4.7.5.1 Pocket opening dimension examination. The parka pocket opening shall be measured for conformance to the dimension specified in 3.18.1.

4.7.6 Toxicity test. When required, (see 6.2), an acute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted on laboratory animals. When the results of these studies indicate the Parka is not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in accordance with the Modified Draize Procedure (see 2.3). If the toxicity requirement (see 3.12) can be demonstrated with historical use data, toxicity testing may not be required (see 6.2).

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.1). When packaging of materiel is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory).

6.1 Intended use. The parka is intended to be worn as an over-garment, during bivouac, rest and sentry activities in snow covered conditions when snow camouflage protection is required.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number, and date of this Purchase Description

b. Sizes required (see 1.2.1)

c. The specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2)

d. When first article is required (see 3.1, 4.2, 6.3)

e. When toxicity testing is required (see 3.12 and 4.7.6)

f. Length required if other than specified (see 3.13)

g. Conformance inspection acceptance quality limits (AQL) (see 4.3 and 4.3.1)

h. Inspection conditions (see 4.4)

i. Packaging (see 5.1)

6.3 First article. When a first article inspection is required (see 3.1), it will be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisions of FAR 52.209-4. The first article should be a preproduction sample. The contracting officer should specify the appropriate type of first article and the number of units to be furnished. The contracting officer should include specific instructions in acquisition documents regarding arrangements for selection, inspection, and approval of the first article.

6.4 Standard sample. For access to samples and pattern drawings, address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal.

6.5 Fabric Defect Replica Scales are available for purchase from SDL Atlas. Contact Customer Service 1-803-329-2110 and request item number is 402985 – Slub/Knot Replica Set

6.6 Subject term (key word) listing.

Clothing Cloth printed

MARPAT

Over garment Overwhites Pack Cover Uniform Water repellent

SPACE LEFT INTENTIONALLY BLANK

FIGURE 1. Parka, Snow Pattern Camouflage, Front, back, and hood detail views.

FIGURE 2. Hood Tab Detail.

Bar Tack

Back Tack

FIGURE 3. Parka, Snow Pattern Camouflage, Stow Away Pocket Detail, Standard Construction (inside garment view).

FIGURE 4. Parka, Snow Pattern Camouflage Stow Away Pocket Detail, Alternate Construction (inside garment view).

Custodian: Preparing Activity:

Army- GL Army-GL Navy-MC