GL-PD-11-07 Shirt Woman Tuck-In.pdf

INCH-POUND

GL/PD 11-07

18 May 2011

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

SHIRT, WOMAN’S, TUCK-IN

This purchase description is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the

Department of Defense. (DoD).

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for short and long sleeve polyester/cotton shirt intended for wear by female military personnel of the Department of the

Army.

1.2 Classification. The shirts will be in the following types and sizes:

Type I - Short sleeve

Type II - Long sleeve

Schedule of sizes for Type I

Regular

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Department of the Army, Natick Soldier Research, Development and Engineering Center, Kansas St., Natick

MA 01760. ATTN: RDNS-WPW-C.

FSC 8410

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.

GL-PD-11-07

Schedule of sizes for Type II, X-Short Short Regular Long X-Long XX-Long

4 4 4 4 -- --

6 6 6 6 -- --

8 8 8 8 -- --

10 10 10 10 10 --

-- 12 12 12 12 12

-- 14 14 14 14 14

-- 16 16 16 16 16

-- 18 18 18 18 18

-- 20 20 20 20 20

-- -- 22 22 22 22

-- -- 24 24 24 24

-- -- 26 26 26 26

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3, 4 or 5 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements cited in sections 3, 4 or 5 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL SPECIFICATIONS

V-B-871 - Button, Sewing Hole and Button, Staple (Plastic)

FEDERAL STANDARDS

FED-STD-4 - Glossary of Fabric Imperfections

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton- or Polyester-Covered

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusible

MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General Use)

MIL-T-43624 - Thread, Polyester, Spun

(Copies are available on-line at https://assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch/ or from the

Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA

19111-5094.)

PURCHASE DESCRIPTIONS

GL/PD 11-05 - Cloth, Polyester/Cotton

(Copies should be obtained from the contracting activity or as directed by the contracting activity.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings and publications. The following other

Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL ACQUISITION REGULATIONS (FAR)

52.209-4 - First Article Approval – Government Testing

(Copies are available on-line at http://acquisition.gov/far/index.html or by contacting the

Superintendent of Documents at 202-512-1800.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Test Method 61 - Colorfastness to: Laundering: Accelerated

AATCC Test Method 88B - Smoothness of Seams in Fabrics after Repeated Home

Launderings

AATCC Test Method 88C - Creases in Fabrics, Retention of, after Repeated Home

Launderings

AATCC Test Method 117 - Colorfastness to Heat: Dry (Excluding Pressing)

AATCC Test Method 132 - Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning

AATCC Test Method 143 - Appearance of Apparel and Other Textile End Products after Repeated Home Launderings

AATCC Three Dimensional Smoothness Appearance Replicas

AATCC Crease Retention Replicas

AATCC Photographic Seam Smoothness Replicas for Evaluating Single- and Double-

Needle Seams https://assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch/ http://acquisition.gov/far/index.html

(Copies are available for purchase on-line at http://www.aatcc.org/ or from the American

Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC

27709-2215.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies are available on-line at http://www.asq.org or from the American Society for Quality, 600 North Plankinton Avenue, Milwaukee, WI 53203.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D 6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies are available for purchase on-line at http://www.astm.org/ or from ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, P.O. Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19426-2959.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

Repeat Insult Patch Test - Modified Draize Procedure - Principles and Methods of Toxicology, (4th edition) A Wallace Hayes (editor), pp 1057-1060, 2001

(Copies are available on-line at http://www.taylorandfrancis.co.uk or from Taylor and Francis, 325 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, PA 19106.)

Sears Roebuck and Co.

Sears Fabric Defect Replica Scales

(Copies available from Sears Roebuck and Co., “Fabric Defect Replica Kit” Dept 817 (ATTN:

FC 554B), 3333 Beverly Road, HG, FC568B, Hoffman Estates, IL 60179). For information call

(847-286-8952.)

2.4 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS.

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Recycled, recovered or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided http://www.aatcc.org/ http://www.asq.org/ http://www.astm.org/ http://www.taylorandfrancis.co.uk/ that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design. The shirt is a tuck-in design. It shall have a two piece front with princess style seams and a one piece back. The shirt shall have a convertible collar with collar stays attached to the undercollar. The shirt shall have two button down tapered shoulder loops. The shirt shall have an overedged front facing. The Type I shirt shall have short sleeves. The Type II shirt shall have long sleeves, bound sleeve openings, sleeve pleats, and cuffs with two buttons for adjustment. Each shirt shall have three permanent creases on the back of shirt positioned in accordance with the marks on the pattern. (See Figures 1 through 4).

3.4 Materials.

3.4.1 Basic material. The basic material for the shirt shall be a 4.5 (+ 0.25) ounces per square yard polyester/ cotton, herringbone cloth conforming to GL/PD 11-05. The color shall match

Army Shade White 521 or Army Shade Gray 510.

3.4.2 Interlining. The material for interlining the collar, collarstand, cuffs (Type II), and shoulder loops shall be a fusible interlining conforming to Type V, Class 2, Style B of

MIL-C-44296.

3.5 Components.

3.5.1 Buttons. The buttons shall conform to Type II, Class K, Style 25, 19 line of V-B-871.

The color of the buttons shall be a good match to Army Shade White 521.

3.5.2 Thread. The thread used for stitching and seaming shall be cotton or polyester covered polyester core, Tex size 31-35, 2 ply and Tex size 25-30, 2 ply conforming to A-A-50199. The thread for the buttonholes and button sewing shall be Tex size 31-35, 2 ply only. As an alternate the thread may be Tex size 30, 2 ply and Tex size 25, 2 ply conforming to MIL-T-43624. The colorfastness requirements shall apply. The color of the dyed thread shall be a good match to

Army Shade White 521.

3.5.3 Collar stays. The collar stays shall be made from a polyethylene terephthalate plastic sheet. The thickness shall be 0.020 (+ 0.001) inch. The color shall be natural (clear or opaque).

Both ends shall be rounded or pointed with the points rounded, or one end shall be rounded and one end taperedwith the point rounded. The collar stays may be unslotted or slotted.

3.5.3.1 Collar stay configuration.

3.5.3.1.1 Unslotted stays. The unslotted stays shall measure 3/8 (+ 1/16) inch wide and 2-3/4 to 2-7/8 inches long.

3.5.3.1.2 Slotted stays. The slotted stays shall measure 3/8 (+ 1/16) - inch wide and 2-3/4 to

2-7/8 inches long. The stay shall have two slots 3/4 (+ 1/16) inch long centered along the length of the stay. Each slot shall be 1/32 inch wide and spaced approximately equidistant across the width of the stay.

3.5.4 Permanent creases. Each shirt shall have permanent silicone creases applied in accordance with 3.10.4.1 (see 6.7). The finished permanent creases shall show no evidence of flaking, decomposition, failure to retain creases, cracking, staining, strike back onto the face of the material or increased stiffness. The shirts shall have a minimum rating of “3” when evaluated for permanent crease resistance to dry heat (3 exposures) and steam pressings (3 exposures) when tested as specified in 4.7.1.1 and shall have a minimum rating of “pass” for resistance to hot water when tested as specified in 4.7.1.2.

3.6 Labels. Each shirt shall have a size label and a combination identification-instruction label conforming to MIL-DTL-32075. The fastness to laundering requirements of

MIL-DTL-32075 shall apply.

3.6.1 Size label. The size label for the shirt shall conform to Type VI, Class 2 of

MIL-DTL-32075. The size label shall be positioned at center back of the collar and shall be attached in the collarstand neck joining seam and shall contain actual body dimensions for bust and back length for Type I and bust and long sleeve length for Type II, as specified in Table I and the National Stock Number (NSN).

For Type I Shirt (Example): For Type II Shirt (Example)

12R - Short Sleeve 12R - Long Sleeve

Bust - 37-1/2 – Back Length 27 Bust – 37-1/2 - Sleeve – 31

8410-00-000-0000 8410-00-000-0000

3.6.2 Combination label. The combination identification-instruction label shall conform to

Type V, Class 15 of MIL-DTL-32075. The combination label shall be positioned 2 inches up from the finished bottom and 2-1/2 inches in from the folded edge on the outside right front bottom (as worn) and stitched on all four sides. Stitching shall not be through printing. The label shall contain the item name, shade number, contractor’s name, contract number, fiber content, NSN and the following laundering instructions:

Laundering instructions

1. Wash with moderately hot water (115°F) using soap or mild detergent.

a. For machine washing. Use permanent press cycle.

b. For hand washing. Do not wring or twist.

2. DO NOT STARCH, BLEACH OR USE FABRIC SOFTENER.

3. Dry in tumble dryer on warm or delicate setting. Remove immediately at end of drying.

Shape and hang.

4. To drip dry, remove from water before last spin cycle. Shape and hang.

5. Touch up if required. Iron at a moderate or synthetic material heat setting.

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

TABLE I. Body dimensions for size label (in inches)

Size Bust

4 32-1/2

6 33-1/2

8 34-1/2

10 36

12 37-1/2

14 39

16 41

18 43

20 45

22 47

24 49

26 51

Type I and II shirts

Size Back Length

4 26-1/2

6 26-5/8

8 26-3/4

10 26-7/8

12 27

14 27-1/8

16 27-1/4

18 27-3/8

20 27-1/2

22 27-5/8

24 27-3/4

26 27-7/8

Type II shirts

Sleeve Lengths Dimension

X-Short 28

Short 29-1/2

Regular 31

Long 32-1/2

X-Long 34

XX-Long 35-1/2

3.6.3 Barcode label. Each shirt shall be individually barcoded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The paper tag shall be standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 100 pounds. The paper used for the tags shall have a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a hole and shall be attached to each shirt by a fastener. The tags shall be clearly legible and readable by scanner. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit

National Stock Number (NSN). There shall be a 12 digit Universal Product Code (UPC) number assigned for all NSNs by the contracting activity. The initial “UPC” must appear beneath the code. The bar code for NSN and UPC type shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so that it is completely visible on the shirt when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and so it causes no damage to the shirt. The UPC code shall be placed on all shipping cartons on which the NSN appears.

3.7 Figures. Figures are furnished for information purposes only. If there are any inconsistencies between the written specification and the figures, the written specification shall control.

3.8 Patterns. The Government shall furnish a complete set of patterns which provides for an allowance of 1/4 -inch for all seams, except the seam joining the collar to body shall be 3/8 inch.

The Government patterns may be used to create the contractor’s working patterns. Minor modifications are permitted to accommodate automatic equipment, however the design and all measurements shall be maintained as specified by the Government patterns.

3.8.1 List of pattern parts. The component parts of the shirts shall be cut from material, as specified, in accordance with the number of parts indicated in Table II.

TABLE II. List of pattern parts

Material Nomenclature Pattern

Abbreviation

Cut Parts

Basic material

Back

Center front

Side front

Collar

Top collarstand

Shoulder loop

Sleeve (Type I)

Sleeve (Type II)

Sleeve binding (Type II)

Cuff (Type II)

BK

CFR

SFR

CO

STD

LOOP

SS

LS

BIND

CU

Fusible interlining

Collar

Collarstand

Shoulder loop

Cuff (Type II)

COINT

STDINT

LOOPINT

CUINT

Template Front buttonhole marker for long sleeve

Front buttonhole marker for short sleeve

BMKRELS

BMKRESS

3.9 End item seam and fabric appearance, bonding strength of fusibles and adhesion of ultrasonically fused collar stays.

3.9.1 Seam and fabric appearance rating. After the finished shirt has been laundered five (5) times in accordance with 4.8.2, the appearance rating of the seams and stitching (see 6.5) and fabric shall be as specified in Table III (see 4.8.3):

TABLE III. Appearance rating

Parts Minimum Average Rating of 3 observations 1/

Fabric overall

Fused collar edges

Fused shoulder loops

Creases

Cuffs (Type II)

Right front seams

Left front seams

3.7

3.7

3.7

3.7

3.3

3.3

TABLE III. Appearance rating - Continued

Parts Minimum Average Rating of 3 observations 1/

Armholes

Underarm seams

Side seams

Sleeve hems (Type I)

3.3

3.3

3.3

1/ No individual observation shall be lower than a rating of “3”.

3.9.2 Bonding strength and appearance of fusibles. After the shirt has been laundered five

(5) times in accordance with 4.8.2, it shall show no bubbling or delamination of the fused plies of material. There shall be no “strike-through” of adhesive after fusing.

3.9.3 Ultrasonically fused collar stay resistance to laundering (where applicable). After the shirt has been laundered five (5) times in accordance with 4.8.2, the shirt shall show no delamination or curling of the ultrasonically fused collar stays. There shall be no delamination of any fused points. See 6.6 for recommended ultrasonic welding conditions.

3.10 Construction.

3.10.1 Stitches, seams and stitching. All stitches, seams and stitchings shall conform to

ASTM D 6193. The shirt shall be of a safety stitch construction with 10-12 stitches per inch.

All hemming shall use 301 stitch type. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, pleats, or open seams occur. Thread tensions shall be maintained so there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The width of overedging shall be 3/16 inch. The guide and knives for the overedge machines shall be set to trim only the raveled edges of the fabric. The trimming shall not exceed 1/16 inch. The edge and top stitching shall be uniformly gauged. All seams shall start and finish evenly.

3.10.1.1 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all stitchings shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/4 inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitchings.

Ends of a continuous line of stitching shall overlap not less than 1/2 inch. The lock shall be imbedded in the materials sewn.

3.10.1.2 Repairs of type 301 stitching. Repairs of type 301 stitching shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks, skipped stitches, run-offs, or bobbin runouts occur during sewing, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2 inch back of the end of the stitching. 1/

b. Thread breaks or two or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of

1/2 inch in back of the defective areas, continue over the defective area and continue a minimum of 1/2 inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials and restitching in the required manner. 1/

1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched.

3.10.1.3 Types 401, 502, 503, 515, 516, and 519 stitching. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn.

All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.10.1.2a and 3.10.1.2b. Type 301 stitching may be used in repairing type 401 stitching.

3.10.1.4 Thread ends. All thread ends shall be trimmed to 1/4 inch maximum length.

3.10.2 Buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be straight-cut, purl or whip type and finished inside cut length shall be 1/2 to 9/16 inches long. When purl-type buttonhole is used, the purling shall be on the outside of the shirt. The stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric and the ends shall be securely tacked. All loose thread ends shall be trimmed or fused to within 1/8 inch of the tack.

3.10.3 Marking. The parts of the shirt shall be marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of marking may be used except.

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices

b. Sew-on type tickets

c. Adhesive type tickets which leave traces of adhesive on the material upon removal of the tickets

3.10.4 Manufacturing requirements. The shirts shall be cut in strict accordance with the

Government furnished pattern. Component parts shall be cut from the same piece (dye lot) of fabric. The use of drill holes on visible parts of the shirt is prohibited.

3.10.4.1 Permanent creases. Each shirt shall have permanent silicone creases. There shall be three (3) vertical permanent creases on the back. The three back creases shall be positioned in accordance with the marks on the patterns. Each permanent crease shall be a single continuous line formed by applying a 1/16 inch (nominal) silicone adhesive non-staining bead to the backside of the basic material. Each bead shall be applied evenly and equally in a straight vertical line from the top to the bottom of each cut part. There shall be no variation in the sharpness of any of the creases.

3.10.4.2 Fusing. A single layer of fusible interlining shall be fused to a single layer of basic material, on an electric dry heated conveyor or flathead type fusing press which has the capability of controlling and retaining pressure, dwell time, and temperature within an 8 hour period. For optimum results with a particular fusible style and press used, setting should be obtained from the manufacturer of the fusible interlining.

3.10.4.3 Collar. The collar shall be joined to the stand with notches matching without twists, puckers or distorting the collar or shirt. The collarstand shall be topstitched 1/16 inch. The collar points shall finish 2-5/8 (+ 1/8) inches in length and shall be of equal length. The collar shall have slotted, unslotted or ultrasonically fused collar stays. The collar ends shall be centered at equal distances from the center of the shirt front and shall open 3/8 to 1/2 inch when the collar is buttoned. The collar shall be edge stitched 1/4 to 3/8 inch from edge.

3.10.4.4 Shoulder loops. The shoulder loops shall finish smooth and flat and uniform in construction and placement. The shoulder loops shall measure 1-7/8 (+ 3/16) inches wide at the armhole seam tapering to a width of 1-5/8 (+ 1/8) inches at the pointed end and shall be edge stitched 1/4 (+ 1/16) inch from the edge. Each shoulder loop shall have a clean cut horizontal buttonhole centered in shoulder loop and the inside cut end of the buttonhole shall be 3/8 to 1/2 inch from point of loop. Position shoulder loop with point of loop 1/4 inch in front of shoulder seam and the point shall finish 3/8 (+ 1/8) inch from finished collar joining seam. The front edge of shoulder loop at armhole seam shall be 1 (+ 1/8) inch forward of shoulder seam. One button shall be sewn through the button stay reinforcement (see 3.4.2) approximately 1/4 inch in front of shoulder seam, on each shoulder to correspond with buttonhole in the shoulder loop.

3.10.4.5 Sleeves.

3.10.4.5.1 Short sleeves (Type II). The sleeves shall have a 7/8 (+ 1/8) inch hem with raw edge turned under 1/4 inch. The sleeves may be hemmed before or after seaming the sleeves.

When sleeves are seamed after hemming a bartack shall be positioned 1/8 inch from bottom of hem across both sides of sleeve seams with hem turned to one side.

3.10.4.5.2 Long Sleeves (Type II). The long sleeves shall have a narrow continuous sleeve opening, measuring 3 (+1/8) inches along outside fold using a continuous strip binding of basic material. The binding shall finish 3/8 to 1/2 inch wide and 3 (+ 1/8) inches in length from top of cuff to top edge of binding. The sleeves shall have two 5/8 inch pleats positioned above the cuffs, in accordance with marks on pattern, the pleat shall be folded toward the back of sleeve opening. The full width of binding shall be backtacked or bartacked through binding and sleeve

1/8 to 1/4 inch below top of opening or the binding shall be backtacked or bartacked diagonally through binding only at top of opening. The cuffs shall finish smooth and flat without distortion and shall be uniform in shape and size. The edge stitching shall be of uniform gauge. The cuffs shall finish 2-3/8 (+ 1/8) inches wide and shall have rounded lower corners. The buttonholes shall be clean cut, well made and the stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric with the purling on the outside and no loose stitching. The cuff shall have a horizontal buttonhole 5/8

(+ 1/16) inch long in the center of each cuff with the inside cut end of the buttonhole 1/2 (+ 1/8) inch from the edge. The purl side, if applicable, of the buttonhole shall face toward the outside of the cuff. The cuff shall be edge stitched 1/4 inch from the edge and the edge stitching shall terminate 5/16 (+ 1/16) inch from top edge of cuff. The cuffs shall have two buttons for adjustment, the center of the first button shall be 1/2 to 5/8 inch from the front edge of cuff and the center of the second button shall be positioned 3/4 to 1 inch from the center of the first button.

The buttons shall be centered in the width of the cuff to correspond with the buttonhole.

3.10.4.6 Front buttonholes and buttons. The buttonhole markers shall be used to mark buttonhole placement starting at the top of shirt. Make front buttonholes on right front of shirt through the facing centered over marks on pattern, positioned 3/4 (+ 1/16) inch from the front edge (see 3.10.2). (NOTE: Buttonhole markers differ for short and long sleeve shirts). The long sleeve (Type II) shirt shall have an eight (8) button front positioned with one horizontal buttonhole at top of right front and seven (7) vertical buttonholes spaced in accordance with buttonhole marker. The short sleeve (Type I) shirt shall have a nine (9) button front closure, positioned with one horizontal buttonhole at top of right front and eight (8) vertical buttonholes spaced in accordance with buttonhole marker. Make one horizontal buttonhole at top on right front of shirt through the facing with front inside cut edge of buttonhole 3/8 (+ 1/16) inch from front edge and 1/4 (+ 1/16) inch from top of facing. The buttons shall be aligned and securely sewn so that they center in the buttonhole, + 1/16 inch. The front buttons shall be sewn through the facing and positioned 3/4 (+ 1/16) inch from the front edge. One (1) extra button shall be placed at the bottom left front (on outside) approximately 1-1/2 inches from the bottom of the shirt, so as not to interfere with the combination label.

3.10.4.7 Underarm seams. The side seams and sleeve seam shall meet at the underarm and shall not be staggered by more than 1/8 inch.

3.10.4.8 Bottom hem. The shirts bottom hem shall finish 1/8 to 5/16 inch wide with the bottom raw edge of shirt turned under and the facings shall be caught in the hem. The side seams shall be turned in the same direction as sleeve hems. The seams shall not be twisted. The hem shall finish smooth and flat without puckers or twists.

3.10.4.9 Cleaning. All loose threads shall be removed. All spots, stains, and marking tickets shall be removed.

3.10.4.10 Pressing and closing shirt. The shirts shall have a finished press appearance. If necessary to achieve the required finished press appearance, touch-up fronts, backs, sleeves and bottom hems and collars before folding for packaging. The shirt shall be fully buttoned.

3.11 Finished measurements. The finished shirts shall conform to the measurements specified in Table IV.

TABLE IV. Finished measurements

Size

Collar

1/

1/2 Bust

2/

1/2 Waist

3/

1/2 Sweep

4/

Center Back

Length 5/

Long Sleeve Length 6/

XS S R L XL XXL

Short Sleeve

Length 7/

4 14 18-1/2 15-3/4 19-5/8 26-1/2 28 29-1/2 31 32-1/2 -- -- 3-1/2

6 14-1/4 19 16-1/4 20-1/8 26-5/8 28 29-1/2 31 32-1/2 -- -- 3-1/2

8 14-1/2 19-1/2 16-3/4 20-5/8 26-3/4 28 29-1/2 31 32-1/2 -- -- 3-1/2

10 14-3/4 20-1/4 17-1/2 21-3/8 26-7/8 28 29-1/2 31 32-1/2 34 -- 3-1/2

12 15 21 18-1/4 22-1/8 27 -- 29-1/2 31 32-1/2 34 35-1/2 3-1/2

14 15-1/4 21-3/4 19 22-7/8 27-1/8 -- 29-1/2 31 32-1/2 34 35-1/2 3-1/2

16 15-1/2 22-3/4 20 23-7/8 27-1/4 -- 29-1/2 31 32-1/2 34 35-1/2 3-1/2

18 15-3/4 23-3/4 21 24-7/8 27-3/8 -- 29-1/2 31 32-1/2 34 35-1/2 3-1/2

20 16 24-3/4 22 25-7/8 27-1/2 -- 29-1/2 31 32-1/2 34 35-1/2 3-1/2

22 16-1/4 25-3/4 23 26-7/8 27-5/8 -- -- 31 32-1/2 34 35-1/2 3-1/2

24 16-1/2 26-3/4 24 27-7/8 27-3/4 -- -- 31 32-1/2 34 35-1/2 3-1/2

26 16-3/4 27-3/4 25 28-7/8 27-7/8 -- -- 31 32-1/2 34 35-1/2 3-1/2

Tol. + 1/4 + 1/4 + 1/4 + 1/4 +1/2 +1/2 +1/2 +1/2 +1/2 +1/2 +1/2 +1/4

1/ Collar: Measure along center of collarstand, from center of button to center of buttonhole with collar in a flat position.

2/ 1/2 Bust: Measure across front at the base of the armhole, from folded edge to folded edge at base of armhole with shirt buttoned and laid flat.

3/ 1/2Waist: Measure from folded edge to folded edge at the most narrow area of the waist.

4/ 1/2Sweep: Measure straight across bottom of the shirt from folded edge to folded edge.

5/ Center Back Length: Measure center back from the center back neck seam to the bottom edge of shirt.

6/ Long sleeve length: Measure from the center back at the collarstand seam, diagonally across back along sleeve, to the center bottom edge of the cuff.

7/ Short sleeve length: Measure along underarm seam, from armhole seam to bottom edge of sleeve.

3.12 Workmanship. The finished shirts shall conform to the quality of product established by this specification. The shirts shall be free from all defects which would affect its serviceability, appearance and uniformity.

3.13 Toxicity. The finished shirt shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.7.2. Chemicals recognized by the

Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article inspection. The first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1, shall be inspected for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship and dimensional requirements. The presence of excessive defects, as defined by contract (see 6.2) or failure to pass any test shall be cause for rejection of the first article. The sample size shall be specified in the procurement document (see 6.2). The sample unit shall be one (1) shirt and the lot size shall be expressed in units of shirts.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall include shade and appearance of all components, finished measurements in Table IV and examination for defects in Table V.

Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4, as defined in the contract (see 6.2), except where otherwise indicated. The sample unit shall be one (1) shirt and the lot sizes shall be expressed in units of shirts.

4.4 Inspection conditions. In accordance with 4.1, components and end items shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this document or applicable procurement documents (see

6.2). The Government reserves the right to inspect all components and end items to determine conformance to requirements.

4.5 End item visual examination. Each shirt shall be examined for the defects listed in Table

V. The lot shall be expressed in units of shirts. All fabric and garment defects shall be scored in accordance with Table V which are clearly noticeable at normal viewing and affect serviceability and appearance of the finished shirts. Material defects are defined in Section I of FED-STD-4.

If needed, closer inspection will be performed to verify compliance to specification requirements.

Shade shall be evaluated at a distance of 3 feet.

TABLE V. End item visual defects

Examination Defect

Material

Hole, cut, tear, smash, misweave, missing, broken, or loose yarn, shade bar , multiple floats, or misweave

Color streaked, barred, mottled or not as specified; area of poor dye penetration extending more than 1/4 -inch in an direction on outside part, dye streak, visible mend, thin place, permanent crease

Knots greater than Sears Scale Level C (see 2.3)

Slubs greater than Sears Scale Level D (see 2.3)

Buttonholes

Any omitted, added, misplaced, ragged edges, caught in other stitching or component, not secured through proper layers of fabric, not serving intended purpose, broken stitches

Not specified size or type, finished cut length not as specified, 2 or more uncut yarn per buttonhole

Stitches and Seams Any seams open, puckered, distorted, pleated, wavy, twisted or irregular, not as specified, needle chew or irregular stitching, raw edge

Irregular stitching or stitching not as specified, loose tension resulting in loose seams, broken stitches

Skipped or runoff stitches, ends of stitching not secured

Visible mend, pleat or crease

Needle perforations clearly visible on outside

Any part of shirt caught in an unrelated operation or stitching

Stitches per inch not as specified, seam allowance more than

1/16 -inch more or less than specified, gauge of stitching not as specified or irregular

Bartack: Omitted, misplaced, not serving intended purpose, not specified size, not secured through proper layers of fabric, loose or tight stitching, or broken stitches

Component parts Any component misplaced, omitted, broken or defective, distorted, tight or full, or not attached as specified

Any component part not cut in accordance with specified pattern part

Any component not specified type, size, color, etc.

Fronts Spacing between two or more buttonholes unequal by 1/4 inch or more

Two or more buttonholes out of vertical alignment by 1/8 inch or more

Tight or short, or front facing tight or twisted causing noticeable bulge, twist when buttoned

TABLE V. End item visual defects – Continued

Fronts (continued) Front edge not folded straight with warp forming curve or angle

Uneven in length at bottom when buttoned by 1/2 inch or more

Facing not smooth and flat, shows evidence of puckering, width of facing not as specified

Hem type, or width not as specified

Shoulder Loops Shoulder loop puckered, twisted, or distorted, not positioned as specified or attached crooked, not uniform size or shape, any point varying 1/4 inch or more

Not specified dimension

Stay omitted or improperly positioned or not securely attached

Collar Not uniform in size or shape, any point varying1/4 inch or more

Collar twisted, not smooth, too full, short, tight causing collar to turn out

Collar points uneven in length by 1/8 inch or more

Collar point greater than 2-3/4 inches or less than 2-1/2 inches

Collar opening less than 3/8 inch or more than 1/2 inch when collar is buttoned

Edges of undercollar exposed beyond edge of top collar

Collar point not properly forced out

Collar off center by 1/4 inch or more

Width of collarstand varying more than 3/16 inch when measured at the two shoulder seams at junction of collar

Sleeves Tight, or excessive puckers, twisted, sleeves reversed.

LONG SLEEVES:

Binding: omitted, improperly positioned, puckered, twisted or distorted, not specified width or length, top of binding not stitched as specified, sides of opening uneven in length

Pleat: omitted, misplaced, facing incorrect direction, or not specified size

Cuff: puckered, twisted, or distorted, not uniform in size or shape, not stitched as specified

SHORT SLEEVES:

Hem not as specified, bartack omitted, bartack not extending across seam, not serving intended purpose

Shade Shaded parts on the outside, any part noticeably shaded from the other parts or variation in shade within a part

Component color not as specified

TABLE V. End item visual defects - Continued

Interlining

Bubbling, delamination, bleed through, wrinkling, puckering, twisted, pleated

Any resin transfer or color change

Misplaced, omitted or added where not specified

Cleanliness Any spot or stain clearly noticeable, Three or more thread ends on outside not trimmed to 1/4 inch or less or not removed; odor affecting serviceability, any lint, dust or foreign matter not removed

Any shade identification marking visible on outside of shirt (as worn)

Two or more shade identification labels not removed

Pressing Some or all pressing omitted, wrinkles, creases, or pressing impressions not removed, scorched area, not presenting a finished appearance, poorly pressed

Permanent creases Permanent creases omitted, mispositioned, misaligned, crooked, wavy, angled, or not positioned vertically straight

Silicone bead is greater than or less than 1/16 inch

Evidence of flaking, decomposition, failure to retain crease, or cracking

Silicone not in crease line, excessive silicone, missing silicone, voids or not uniform application or appearance of silicone bead

Staining or strike back through to face of material

Silicone on unrelated part

Buttons Any button misplaced, omitted, broken or defective, not attached as specified, or insecurely sewn

Button not aligned with corresponding buttonhole causing gap, puckers, or tightness

Not specified type, size or color

Stitching not locked at end of cycle (tug at loose end of thread when accessible to determine if it will ravel)

Labels Omitted, incorrect, illegible, not attached where specified

Packaging Any shirt not packaged in accordance with the contract or purchase order

Workmanship Distorted parts or poor workmanship, visible drill hole on outside of shirt (as worn)

Any edge of any component part required to be forced out having folds more than 1/16 inch.

4.6 End item dimensional examination. The shirt shall be examined for conformance tothe dimensions specified in Table IV and specified in Section 3. Any dimension not within the specified tolerance shall be classified as a defect. The lot size shall be expressed in units of shirts. The inspection and the acceptance quality limits (AQL), expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

4.7 Methods of inspection.

4.7.1 Permanent crease testing. The shirt shall be tested as specified in paragraph 4.7.1.1 and

4.7.1.2. Three test specimens shall be cut for testing from each shirt. A single result of failure in any of the specified tests shall be recorded as a lot failure.

4.7.1.1 Permanent crease resistance tests. The shirt samples shall have a minimum rating of

“3” when evaluated for permanent crease resistance to dry heat (3 exposures) in accordance with

AATCC 117 at a maximum of 305°F, and steam pressing (3 exposures) in accordance with

AATCC 132.

4.7.1.2 Permanency of crease test. The permanent crease test specimen shall be soaked for

30 minutes in water containing a minimum amount of suitable wetting agent to thoroughly wet out the cloth. The temperature of the water shall be 165 (+ 5)°F. The wet out test specimens shall be removed without squeezing and shall be air dried or dried at a temperature not exceeding

180°F, while laying flat on an absorbent surface such as paper hand toweling or kitchen type tissue. The wet out and dried out specimens shall be compared with the sample prepared in the same manner. The sharpness of the crease on the test specimen shall not be less than that of the unwetted samples. Results shall be reported as “pass” or “fail”.

4.7.2 Toxicity test. When required (see 6.2), an acute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted on laboratory animals. When the results of these studies indicate the (item) is not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in accordance with the Modified Draize Procedure (see 2.3). If the toxicity requirement (see 3.13) can be demonstrated with historical use data, toxicity testing may not be required (see 6.2).

4.8 Seam and fabric appearance evaluation. The shirt shall be evaluated for seam and fabric appearance in accordance with 4.8.1 through 4.8.3.

4.8.1 Apparatus. The following apparatus is required for evaluating samples for seam and fabric appearance:

a. AATCC three dimensional smoothness appearance replicas.

b. AATCC photographic seam smoothness replicas for evaluating single- and double-needle seams.

4.8.2 Laundering and conditioning procedure. The sample shirt shall be laundered five (5) complete cycles in accordance with AATCC Test Method 143. The laundering parameters are:

Wash time 10 minutes; Machine Cycle Permanent Press; Water temperature 120 (+ 5) °F;

Rinse Cold; Tumble Dry Permanent Press

(NOTE: During any interruptions between cycles and during conditioning and evaluation, the test shirt shall be hung on wooden or plastic hangers and shall be buttoned at the front.)

4.8.3 Evaluation of the appearance of fabric and seams. After the test shirt has been laundered and conditioned as specified in 4.8.2, the shirt shall be evaluated for the characteristics listed in 3.9.1 in accordance with AATCC Test Method 88B. Each characteristic shall be assigned an average numerical value and the values recorded. A test failure shall be reported if any appearance rating falls below the minimum average of three (3) ratings or any one observation rating falls below a rating of “3”.

5. PACKAGING.

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When actual packaging of the shirts is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain requisite packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Department of Defense

Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Departments or Agencies automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The shirts are intended for wear by female personnel of the Army as part of the Army Service Uniform (ASU).

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this Purchase Description.

b. Type, size and length required (see 1.2).

c. The specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2).

d. When first article is required (see 3.1 and 4.2).

e. Color required (see 3.4.1).

f. Number of first articles (see 4.2).

g. Conformance inspection and acceptance quality limits (see 4.3).

h. Inspection conditions (see 4.4).

i. Toxicity requirements (see 4.7.2).

i. Packaging requirements (see 5.1).

6.3 First article. When a first article is required (see 3.1), it will be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisions of FAR 52.209-4. The first article should be a pre-production sample. The contracting officer should specify the appropriate type of first article and the number of units to be furnished. The contracting officer should include specific instructions in all acquisitions documents regarding arrangements for selection, inspection and approval of the first article.

6.4 Standard samples and Government patterns. For access to standard shade samples and

Government patterns, address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal. Standard shade samples are also available at DLA Troop Support at http://dscp.dla.mil/Portal/sreqfrm.aspx .

6.5 Seam appearance. In order to avoid puckering and to produce the flattest seams possible, consideration must be given to the following:

a. The needles used for all seams should be as fine as possible consistent with the size or diameter of the thread used.

b. The throat plate hole should be no larger than necessary to permit free entry of the needle and to prevent flagging.

c. The finest feed (approximately 18 teeth) possible should be used with a pressure foot to exactly match the shape and size of the feed. The face of the pressure foot (underside next to the feed on the machine) should be highly polished to eliminate roughness and reduce drag.

Diamond shaped feed teeth have been used quite successfully.

d. The lightest foot pressure should be used to prevent stretching of the top ply of material.

e. In the safety stitch machine (515, 516, 519) the upper and lower trimming knives should be kept at peak sharpness to prevent “dragging” of the edge of the fabric.

f. In stitch type 301 sewing, the bobbin tension should be adjusted to that when a full bobbin is placed in the bobbin case and thread through the tension spring, the bobbin and case shall ride slowly down the thread when the free end of the thread is held in the vertical position.

Needle tension should be adjusted after the bobbin tension to provide slightly more needle thread than bobbin thread in the stitch.

g. When sewing with stitch type 401 (including the seaming row of the safety stitches), the thread ratio (needle and looper) should be adjusted to produce a stitch with 60 to 70 percent needle thread, and both needle and looper thread tension shall be held to the minimum.

h. Thread take-up mechanism should be set on all machines to relieve as much tension as possible when forming the stitch. All thread contacts should be well polished and free of burrs, cuts, and rough spots.

http://dscp.dla.mil/Portal/sreqfrm.aspx

6.6 Ultrasonic welding conditions for collar stays. The following ultrasonic welding conditions have been found to provide welds meeting the requirements of this document. These limits are furnished for guidance only. For optimum results with a particular ultrasonic machine used, specific machine settings should be obtained from the manufacturer of the ultrasonic equipment.

Minimum Maximum

Pressure, psi 35.0 40.0

Weld time, seconds 0.2 0.3

Down speed, inches/minute 10.0 12.0

Trigger pressure, pounds 8.0 10.0

Hold time, seconds 0.0 0.05

6.7 Permanent creasing. A guide for the permanent creasing procedure is as follows: After pressing the shirts crease apply the silicone resin in a fine bead to the inside of all creases of the shirt. The bead of resin after application should be 1/16 (nominal) inch in width and should follow the crease line exactly. Where resin misses the crease for any reason, it should be re-applied into the crease. No special drying or baking procedures are needed when using the silicone crease. The resin will quickly air-cure and no repressing after application is needed.

6.7.1 Storage. Storage and stability (shelf life) of silicone resin used in permanent creasing.

a. A six-month storage life can be expected if stored in the original unopened cartridges.

All cartridges are “use by” date.

b. All unopened cartridges can be returned to the manufacturer for exchange before the expiration of the “use by” date.

c. Do not use resin that has an expired “use by” date.

6.7.2 A suggested source for material and machines required for the permanent press silicone process is:

Creaset, Inc.

4276-5 Industrial Place

Island Park, NY 11558

Telephone 1-800-522-4583

6.8 Subject term (key word) listing.

Dress clothing

Army Shade White 521

Army Shade Gray 510

Polyester/cotton

FIGURE 1.

FIGURE 1. Shirt, woman’s tuck-in, short sleeve (Type I) - front

Lines indicate seams

FIGURE 2. Shirt, woman’s, tuck-in, short sleeve (Type I) -back

NOTE: Lines indicate seams

FIGURE 3. Shirt, woman’s, tuck-in, long sleeve ( Type II) - front

FIGURE 4. Shirt, woman’s, tuck-in, long sleeve ( Type II) - back

Custodians: Preparing Activity

Army – GL GL-Army