GL-PD 11-06 Final Mens Shirt 5-27-11.pdf

INCH-POUND

GL/PD 11-06

27 May 2011

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

SHIRT, MAN’S

This purchase description is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the

Department of Defense. (DoD).

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for long and short sleeve polyester/ cotton shirts intended for wear by male military personnel of the Department of the

Army.

1.2 Classification. The shirt will be in the following types, classes and sizes:

Type I - Long Sleeve, with Stand Up Collar

Type II - Short Sleeve, with Convertible Collar

Class 1 - Classic Fit

Class 2 - Athletic Fit

Schedule of sizes – Type I, Class 1

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Department of the Army, Natick Soldier Research, Development and Engineering Center, Kansas St., Natick

MA 01760. ATTN: RDNS-WPW-C.

FSC 8405

29 30/31 32/33 34/35 36/37 38/39

-- -- 13-1/2 -- -- --

14 14 14 -- -- --

-- 14-1/2 14-1/2 -- -- --

15 15 15 15 -- --

-- 15-1/2 15-1/2 15-1/2 -- --

16 16 16 16 -- --

-- 16-1/2 16-1/2 16-1/2 16-1/2 --

-- -- 17 17 17 --

-- -- 17-1/2 17-1/2 17-1/2 --

-- -- 18 18 18 18

-- -- -- 18-1/2 18-1/2 18-1/2

-- -- -- 19 19 19

GL-PD 11-06

Schedule of sizes – Type I, Class 2

30/31 32/33 34/35 36/37 38/39

-- 15-1/2 15-1/2 -- --

16 16 16 -- --

-- 16-1/2 16-1/2 16-1/2 --

-- 17 17 17 17

-- 17-1/2 17-1/2 17-1/2 17-1/2

-- 18 18 18 18

-- 18-1/2 18-1/2 18-1/2 18-1/2

-- -- 19 19 19

-- -- 19-1/2 19-1/2 --

-- -- 20 20 --

Schedule of sizes – Type II, Class 1

Schedule of sizes – Type II, Class 2

13-1/2

14-1/2

15-1/2

16-1/2

17-1/2

18-1/2

15-1/2

16-1/2

17-1/2

18-1/2

19-1/2

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3, 4 or 5 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements cited in sections 3, 4 or 5 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL SPECIFICATIONS

V-B-871 - Button, Sewing Hole and Button, Staple (Plastic)

FEDERAL STANDARDS

FED-STD-4 - Glossary of Fabric Imperfections

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50135 - Cloth, Interlining, Polyester

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton- or Polyester-Covered

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusible

MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General Use)

MIL-T-43624 - Thread, Polyester, Spun

MILITARY STANDARDS

MIL-STD-1492 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Men’s Shirts

(Copies are available on-line at https://assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch/ or from the

Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA

19111-5094.)

PURCHASE DESCRIPTIONS

GL/PD 11-05 - Cloth, Polyester/Cotton https://assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch/

(Copies should be obtained from the contracting activity or as direction by the contracting activity.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings and publications. The following other

Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL ACQUISITION REGULATIONS (FAR)

52.209-4 - First Article Approval – Government Testing

(Copies are available on-line at http://acquisition.gov/far/index.html or by contacting the

Superintendent of Documents at 202-512-1800.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Test Method 61 - Colorfastness to: Laundering: Accelerated

AATCC Test Method 88B - Smoothness of Seams in Fabrics after Repeated Home

Launderings

AATCC Test Method 88C - Creases in Fabrics, Retention of, after Repeated Home

Launderings

AATCC Test Method 117 - Colorfastness to Heat: Dry (Excluding Pressing)

AATCC Test Method 132 - Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning

AATCC Test Method 143 - Appearance of Apparel and Other Textile End Products after Repeated Home Launderings

AATCC Three Dimensional Smoothness Appearance Replicas

AATCC Crease Retention Replicas

AATCC Photographic Seam Smoothness Replicas for Evaluating Single- and Double-

Needle Seams

(Copies are available for purchase on-line at http://www.aatcc.org/ or from the American

Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC

27709-2215.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies are available on-line at http://www.asq.org or from the American Society for Quality, 600 North Plankinton Avenue, Milwaukee, WI 53203.)

http://acquisition.gov/far/index.html http://www.aatcc.org/ http://www.asq.org/

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D 6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies are available for purchase on-line at http://www.astm.org/. or from ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, P.O. Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19426-2959.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

Repeat Insult Patch Test - Modified Draize Procedure - Principles and Methods of Toxicology, (4th edition) A Wallace Hayes (editor), pp 1057-1060, 2001

(Copies are available on-line at http://www.taylorandfrancis.co.uk or from Taylor and Francis, 325 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, PA 19106.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract in the event of conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection

(see 6.3) in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Recycled, recovered or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design. The Type I shirt shall be a long sleeve dress style with a standup collar, collarstand and yoke. The Type II shirt shall be a short sleeve dress style with a convertible collar, collarstand and yoke. The collar shall contain collar stays. The number of buttons on the shirt fronts shall be as specified in 3.10.4.10. The shirt shall have two plain chest pockets with button through flaps. The shirt shall also have a pen pocket inside the left breast pocket. The shirt shall have tapered shoulder loops and cuffs (Type I). The top plies of the shoulder loops, cuffs (Type I), collar and collarstand shall have a fusible interlining. The pocket flaps shall be interlined with a polyester cloth (see 3.4.2.1). The shirt shall have an overedged front facing.

The armholes shall be topstitched 1/4 (+ 1/16) inch on the body of the shirt and the shoulder loops shall not be caught in the topstitching. Each shirt shall have permanent creases; three creases on the back and one on each front of shirt positioned in accordance with the marks on the pattern. The creases shall have a continuous appearance on the front through the shirt, front of each pocket and pocket flap (see figures 1 through 4).

3.4 Materials.

http://www.astm.org/ http://www.taylorandfrancis.co.uk/

3.4.1 Basic material. The basic material for the shirt shall be a 4.5 (+ 0.25) ounces per square yard polyester/ cotton, herringbone cloth conforming to GL/PD 11-05. The color shall match

Army Shade White 521.

3.4.2 Interlining. The material for interlining the collar, collarstand, cuffs (Type I), and shoulder loops shall be a fusible interlining conforming to Type V, Class 2, Style B of MIL-C-44296. If automatic crease banding collar stand equipment is used for the Type I shirt, the fusible material shall be on a nonwoven, thermal bonded polyester substrate coated on both sides with a polyvinyl acetate co-polymer adhesive. The total weight of the fusible shall be a minimum of 1.4 ounces per square yard. As an alternate, a woven 100 percent cotton substrate coated on both sides with the polyvinyl acetate may be used. The total weight of the fusible shall be a minimum of 1.8 ounces per square yard. The coatings on both of the above materials shall be transitory in nature such that the adhesive shall wash out after two washings.

3.4.2.1 Pocket flap interlining. The material for interlining the pocket flaps shall be a polyester cloth conforming to A-A-50135, except the minimum weight shall be 3.0 ounces per square yard minimum and the fabric count shall have 51 ends/inch minimum.

3.4.3 Button stay. The button stay/reinforcement material for the shoulder loop button and top button in Type II shirt shall be a 1/2 inch nominal diameter fusible dot conforming to Type

V, VI or VII, Classes 1 or 3, Style C of MIL-C-44296. As an alternate, a commercial type button stay may be used.

3.5 Components.

3.5.1 Buttons. The buttons shall conform to Type II, Class K, Style 25, 19 line of V-B-871.

The color of the buttons shall match Army Shade White 521.

3.5.2 Thread. The thread used for stitching and seaming shall be cotton or polyester covered polyester core, Tex 31-35, 2 ply and Tex 25-30, 2 ply conforming to A-A-50199. The thread for the buttonholes and button sewing shall be Tex 31-35, 2 ply only. As an alternate the thread may be Tex 30, 2 ply and Tex 25, 2 ply conforming to MIL-T-43624. The colorfastness requirements shall apply. The color of the dyed thread shall match Army Shade White 521.

3.5.3 Collar stays. The collar stays shall be made from a polyethylene terephthalate plastic sheet. The thickness shall be 0.020 (+ 0.001) inch. The color shall be natural (clear or opaque).

Either both ends shall be rounded or pointed with the points rounded, or one end shall be rounded and one end tapered with the point rounded. The collar stays may be unslotted or slotted.

3.5.3.1 Collar stay configuration.

3.5.3.1.1 Unslotted stays. The unslotted stays shall measure 3/8 (+ 1/16) inch wide and

2-3/4 to 2-7/8 inches long.

3.5.3.1.2 Slotted stays. The slotted stays shall measure 3/8 (+ 1/16) inch wide and 2-3/4 to

2-7/8 inches long. The stay shall have two slots 3/4 (+ 1/16) inch long centered along the length of the stay. Each slot shall be 1/32 inch wide and spaced approximately equidistant across the width of the stay.

3.5.4 Permanent creases. Each shirt shall have permanent silicone creases applied in accordance with 3.10.4.1 (see 6.7). The finished permanent creases shall show no evidence of flaking, decomposition, failure to retain creases, cracking, staining, strike back onto the face of the material or increased stiffness. The shirts shall have a minimum rating of “3” when evaluated for permanent crease resistance to dry heat (3 exposures) and steam pressing (3 exposures) when tested as specified in 4.7.1.1 and shall have a minimum rating of “pass” for resistance to hot water when tested as specified in 4.7.1.2.

3.6 Labels. The label shall be a white, nonwoven, spunbonded polyester cloth or nonwoven mildew-resistant printed, acrylic coated, impregnated, 80/20 polyester/cellulose cloth, located on the outside right front bottom (as worn), 2 inches up from the finished bottom and 2-1/2 inches in from the folded edge and contain the item name, shade number, contractor’s name, contract number, fiber content, NSN and the following laundering instructions.

Laundering instructions

1. Wash with moderately hot water (115°F) using soap or mild detergent.

a. For machine washing. Use permanent press cycle.

b. For hand washing. Do not wring or twist.

2. DO NOT STARCH, BLEACH OR USE FABRIC SOFTENER.

3. Dry in tumble dryer on warm or delicate setting. Remove immediately at end of drying.

Shape and hang.

4. To drip dry, remove from water before last spin cycle. Shape and hang.

5. Touch up if required. Iron at a moderate or synthetic material heat setting.

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

3.6.1 Alternate label. As an alternate, the printed cloth label may be separated into two labels; one stating the identification information and one stating the instruction information. The identification label shall be located on the outside left front bottom (as worn), 2 inches up from the finished bottom and 2-1/2 inches in from the folded edge and the instruction label shall be located on the outside right front bottom (as worn).

3.6.2 Size marking. The size for the shirts, to include sleeve length for Type I, along with an

“A” for athletic fit or a “C” for classic fit to designate which class shirt and the National Stock

Number (NSN), shall be marked on the center of the collarstand by either direct printing, stamping, or stenciling, and shall not be less than 1/4 inch from the seam joining the collarstand to the neck. The size marking shall have a minimum rating of “3” when tested for colorfastness to laundering in accordance with AATCC Method 61, Test 3A (3 cycles). As an alternate, the size label may be a sewn on size label. The size label shall be positioned at centerback of collar attached in the collar and neck joining seam and shall contain the information stated above.

For Type I Shirt (Example): For Type II Shirt (Example)

15A – 34/35 15A

8410-00-00-0 8410-00-000-0000

3.6.3 Barcode label. Each shirt shall be individually barcoded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The paper tag shall be standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 100 pounds. The paper used for the tags shall have a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a hole and shall be attached to each shirt by a fastener. The tags shall be clearly legible and readable by scanner. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit

National Stock Number (NSN). There shall be a 12 digit Universal Product Code (UPC) number assigned for all NSNs by the contracting activity. The initial “UPC” must appear beneath the code. The bar code for NSN and UPC type shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so that it is completely visible on the shirt when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and so it causes no damage to the shirt. The UPC code shall be placed on all shipping cartons on which the NSN appears.

3.7 Figures. Figures are furnished for information purposes only. If there are any inconsistencies between the written specification and the figures, the written specification shall control.

3.8 Patterns. The Government shall furnish a complete set of patterns which provides for an allowance of 3/8 -inch for all seams, including the seam for joining the collar to body and setting the pen and chest pockets. The seam for joining the collar, flaps and the sleeve cuffs shall be 1/4 inch.

The Government patterns may be used to create the contractor’s working patterns. Minor modifications are permitted to accommodate automatic equipment, however the design and all measurements must be maintained as specified by the Government.

3.8.1 List of pattern parts. The component parts of the shirts shall be cut from materials, as specified, in accordance with the number of parts indicated in Tables I, II, III and IV.

TABLE I. List of pattern parts – Type I, Class 1 – classic fit

Material Nomenclature Pattern

Abbreviation

Cut Parts

Basic material

Front

Back

Yoke

Collar

Collarstand

Pocket 1/

Pen pocket

Pocket flap, top 1/

Pocket flap, under 1/

Shoulder loop

Sleeve

Sleeve binding

Cuff

1 Stayholder

FR

BK

YK

CO

STD

PKT

PEN

TOPFL

UNDFL

LOOP

LS

BIND

CU

STAYHLDR

Fusible interlining Collar

Collarstand

Shoulder loops

Cuff

COINT

STDINT

LOOPINT

CUINT

Polyester interlining Pocket flap 1/ FLINT 2

Template

Pocket 1/

Pocket flap 1/

Front buttonhole marker

PKTFTEMP

FLFTEMP

BMKRE

1/ There are three different pocket and pocket flap pattern and template parts and pocket flap interlining parts. They should be used based on the shirt size.

TABLE II. List of pattern parts – Type I, Class 2 – athletic fit

Yoke

Collar

Collarstand

Pocket 1/

Pen pocket

Pocket flap, top 1/

Pocket flap, under 1/

Shoulder loop

Sleeve

Sleeve binding

Cuff

Stayholder

FR

BK

YK

CO

STD

PKT

PEN

TOPFL

UNDFL

LOOP

LS

BIND

CU

STAYHLD

Fusible interlining Collar

Collarstand

Shoulder loop

Cuff

COINT

STDINT

LOOPINT

CUINT

Front buttonhole marker

PKTFTEMP

TABLE III. List of pattern parts – Type II, Class 1 – classic fit

Yoke

Collar

Collarstand

Pocket 1/

Pen pocket

Pocket flap, top 1/

Pocket flap, under 1/

Shoulder loop

Sleeve

Stayholder

FR

BK

YK

CO

STD

PKT

PEN

TOPFL

UNDFL

LOOP

SS

STAYHLDR

Fusible interlining Collar

Collarstand

Shoulder loop

COINT

STDINT

LOOPINT

Front buttonhole marker

PKTFTEMP

TABLE IV. List of pattern parts – Type II, Class 2 – athletic fit

Yoke

Collar

Collarstand

Pocket 1/

Pen pocket

Pocket flap, top 1/

Pocket flap, under 1/

Shoulder loop

Sleeve

Stayholder

FR

BK

YK

CO

STD

PKT

PEN

TOPFL

UNDFL

LOOP

SS

STAYHLD

Fusible interlining Collar

Collarstand

Shoulder loop

COINT

STDINT

LOOPINT

Front buttonhole marker

PKTFTEMP

3.9 End item seam and fabric appearance, bonding strength of fusibles and adhesion of ultrasonically fused collar stays.

3.9.1 Seam and fabric appearance rating. After the finished shirt has been laundered five (5) times in accordance with 4.8.2, the appearance rating of the seams and stitching (see 6.5) and fabric shall be as specified in Table V (see 4.8.3):

TABLE V. Appearance rating

Part Minimum Average of

3 Observations 1/

Fabric overall 3.7

Fused collar edges 3.7

Fused shoulder loops 3.7

Fused pocket flaps 3.7

Creases 3.7

Pockets 3.7

TABLE V. Appearance rating – Continued

Part Minimum Average of

3 Observations 1/

Creases 3.7

Pockets 3.7

Cuffs (Type I) 3.3

Armholes 3.3

Sleeve hems (Type II) 3.3

Underarm seams 3.3

Yoke 3.3

Side seams 3.3

1/ No individual observation shall be lower than a rating of “3”.

3.9.2 Bonding strength and appearance of fusibles. After the shirt has been laundered five

(5) times in accordance with 4.8.2, it shall show no bubbling or delamination of the fused plies of material. There shall be no “strike-through” of adhesive after fusing. The button stay/ reinforcement shall remain fused with no curling or delamination.

3.9.3 Ultrasonically fused collar stay resistance to laundering (where applicable). After the shirt has been laundered five (5) times in accordance with 4.8.2, the shirt shall show no delamination or curling of the ultrasonically fused collar stays. There shall be no delamination of any fused points. See 6.6 for recommended ultrasonic welding conditions.

3.10 Construction.

3.10.1 Stitches, seams and stitching. All stitches, seams and stitchings shall conform to

ASTM D 6193. The shirt shall be of a safety stitch construction with 10-12 stitches per inch.

All hemming shall use 301 stitch type. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, pleats, or open seams occur. Thread tensions shall be maintained so there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The width of overedging shall be 3/16 inch. The guide and knives for the overedge machines shall be set to trim only the raveled edges of the fabric. The trimming shall not exceed 1/16 inch. The edge and top stitching shall be uniformly gauged. All seams shall start and finish evenly.

3.10.1.1 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all stitchings shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/4 inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitchings.

Ends of a continuous line of stitching shall overlap not less than 1/2 inch. The lock shall be imbedded in the materials sewn.

3.10.1.2 Repairs of type 301 stitching. Repairs of type 301 stitching shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks, skipped stitches, run-offs, or bobbin runouts occur during sewing, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2 inch back of the end of the stitching. 1/

b. Thread breaks or two or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of

1/2 inch in back of the defective areas, continue over the defective area and continue a minimum of 1/2 inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials and restitching in the required manner. 1/

1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched.

3.10.1.3 Types 401, 502, 503, 515, 516, and 519 stitching. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn.

All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.10.1.2a and 3.10.1.2b. Type 301 stitching may be used in repairing type 401 stitching.

3.10.1.4 Thread ends. All thread ends shall be trimmed to 1/4 inch maximum length.

3.10.2 Buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be straight-cut, purl or whip type and finished inside cut length shall be 1/2 to 9/16 inches long. When purl-type buttonhole is used, the purling shall be on the outside of the shirt. The stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric and the ends shall be securely tacked. All loose thread ends shall be trimmed or fused to within 1/8 inch of the tack.

3.10.3 Marking. The parts of the shirt shall be marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of marking may be used except.

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices

b. Sew-on type tickets

c. Adhesive type tickets which leave traces of adhesive on the material upon removal of the tickets

3.10.4 Manufacturing requirements. The shirts shall be cut in strict accordance with the

Government furnished pattern. Component parts shall be cut from the same piece (dye lot) of fabric.

The use of drill holes on visible parts of the shirt is prohibited.

3.10.4.1 Permanent creases. Each shirt shall have permanent silicone creases. There shall be three (3) vertical permanent creases on the back and two (2) vertical permanent creases on the front through the pockets and the flaps. The three back creases shall be positioned in accordance with the marks on the patterns. On the front, the permanent creases shall be positioned in accordance with the pattern marks and shall be positioned through the front pockets and top ply of the front pocket flaps, giving the appearance of one continuous line. Each permanent crease shall be a single continuous line formed by applying a 1/16 inch (nominal) silicone adhesive non-staining bead to the backside of the basic material. Each bead shall be applied evenly and equally in a straight vertical line from the top to the bottom of each cut part. The creases on the center fronts shall present a continuous vertical appearance from shoulder to the bottom of the shirt with no more than 1/32 inch variation at the junction of where the shirt body meets the pocket and pocket flap.

3.10.4.2 Fusing. A single layer of fusible interlining shall be fused to a single layer of basic material, on an electric dry heated conveyor or flathead type fusing press which has the capability of controlling and retaining pressure, dwell time, and temperature within an 8 hour period. For optimum results with a particular fusible style and press used, setting should be obtained from the manufacturer of the fusible interlining.

3.10.4.3 Collar.

3.10.4.3.1 Type I. The collar shall be joined to the stand with notches matching without twists, puckers or distorting the collar or shirt. The collar stand shall be topstitched 1/16 inch.

The collar points shall finish 3-1/8 (+ 1/16) inches in length and shall be of equal length. The collar shall have slotted, unslotted or ultrasonically fused collar stays. The collar ends shall be centered at equal distances from the center of the shirt front and shall open 5/8 inch to 7/8 inch when the collar is buttoned. The collar shall be edge stitched 1/4 to 3/8 inch from edge. The collarstand, at center back of neck, shall be 1-1/2 (+ 1/8) inches. When the alternate automatic collarstand creaser is used, the shape and size of the collarstand must conform to the pattern requirements specified in this document.

3.10.4.3.2 Type II. The collar shall be joined to the stand with notches matching without twists, puckers or distorting the collar or shirt. The collar stand shall be topstitched 1/16 inch.

The collar points shall finish 3-1/8 (+ 1/16) inches in length and shall be of equal length. The collar shall have slotted, unslotted or ultrasonically fused collar stays. The collar ends shall be centered at equal distances from the center of the shirt front and shall open 5/8 inch to 7/8 inch when the collar is buttoned. The collar shall be edge stitched 1/4 to 3/8 inch from edge. The collarstand, at center back of neck, shall be 1-1/2 (+ 1/8) inches.

3.10.4.4 Shoulder loops. The shoulder loops shall finish smooth and flat and uniform in construction and placement. The shoulder loops shall measure 2 (+ 1/8) inches wide at the armhole seam tapering to a width of 1-1/2 (+ 1/8) inches at the pointed end and shall be edge stitched 1/4 (+ 1/16) inch from the edge. Each shoulder loop shall have a clean cut horizontal buttonhole centered in shoulder loop and the inside cut end of the buttonhole shall be 3/8 to 1/2 inch from point of loop. Position shoulder loop with point of loop 1/4 (+ 1/8) inch in front of shoulder seam and the point shall finish 3/8 (+ 1/8) inch from finished collar joining seam. The front edge of shoulder loop at armhole seam shall be 1 (+ 1/8) inch forward of shoulder seam.

One (1) button shall be sewn through the button stay reinforcement (see 3.4.3) approximately 1/4 inch in front of shoulder seam, on each shoulder to correspond with buttonhole in the shoulder loop.

3.10.4.5 Pockets. The pocket shall have a 1 (+ 1/8) inch hem, in accordance with marks on pattern. The edge of the hem shall be finished either by overedge stitching the edge or the edge shall be turned under 1/4 inch and stitched 1/16 -inch from the edge. The pockets shall be positioned on fronts in accordance with marks on the pattern and stitched 1/16 (+1/16, -0) inch from edge with stitching continuing 1/4 to 3/8 inch across the top of pockets and 1/2 to 5/8 inch diagonally down to the line of pocket stitching, forming a triangle at top corners of pockets.

Alignment shall be straight and parallel to the center front and pockets and pocket flaps shall be in horizontal alignment with each other. The pocket depth at center for all sizes shall be 5-7/8

(+ 1/16) inches and the finished width for the pocket for sizes 13-13-1/2 shall be 4-3/4 (+ 1/16), for sizes 14-18 shall be 5 (+ 1/16) inches and for sizes 18-1/2 to 20 shall be 5-1/4 (+ 1/16) inches. One (1) button shall be sewn on each pocket through the hem and shall finish in alignment with each other. The pockets shall finish smooth and flat without distortion and shall be uniform in shape and size. Each pocket shall be creased in accordance with marks on the pattern.

3.10.4.6 Pen pocket. The pen pocket shall be 1-1/4 inches wide. The pen pocket shall be hemmed with a 1 inch turn under and stitched 1/16 inch from rolled hem edge at the top and open at the bottom. The pocket has 1/4 inch side seams and shall be topstitched 1/16 inch from edge.

The placement of the pocket shall be indicated on the patterns and shall not interfere with the permanent creases on the shirt or pocket flap.

3.10.4.7 Pocket flaps. The pocket flaps shall finish smooth and flat without distortion and shall be uniform in shape and size. The top shell piece of the flap shall be creased before the flap is assembled. The edge stitching shall be of uniform gauge and shall finish 1/4 (+ 1/16) inch from side and bottom edges. The buttonholes shall be clean cut, well made and correctly positioned and the stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric with the purling on the outside and no loose stitching. Make one (1) vertical buttonhole in the center of each flap with the lower inside edge 3/8 to 1/2 inch from bottom edge of flap. The pocket flap buttonhole shall be in alignment with the permanent creases in the pocket flap. The tops of flap corners shall be backtacked. The distance between the top of pocket and the top folded flap edge on the finished shirt shall be 3/4 (+ 1/8) inch. Pocket flaps shall be properly centered over their corresponding pocket with side of flaps in vertical alignment with the pocket and in horizontal alignment with each other and the creases on pocket, flap and shirt front shall be in vertical alignment. When automated equipment is used an allowance of not more than 1/8 inch beyond pocket edges on each side is acceptable provided both sides of flap are equidistant from edge of corresponding pocket on both pockets. The pocket flap seam allowance shall be fully covered when pocket flap is turned down and topstitched.

3.10.4.8 Long sleeves (Type I). The long sleeves shall have a narrow continuous sleeve binding of basic material. The binding shall finish 3/8 to 1/2 inch wide and 5-1/2 (+ 1/8) inches in length from top of cuff to top edge of binding. The sleeves shall have one 5/8 inch pleat positioned above the cuffs, in accordance with marks on pattern, the pleat shall be folded toward the back of sleeve opening. The full width of binding shall be backtacked or bartacked through both sides of binding and sleeve 1/8 to 1/4 inch below top of opening or the binding shall be backtacked or bartacked diagonally through binding only at top of opening. The cuffs shall finish smooth and flat without distortion and shall be uniform in shape and size. The edge stitching shall be of uniform Gauge. The cuffs shall finish 2-1/2 (+ 1/8) inches wide and shall have rounded lower corners. The buttonholes shall be clean cut, well made and the stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric with the purling on the outside and no loose stitching. The cuff shall have a horizontal buttonhole 5/8 (+ 1/16) inch long in the center of each cuff with the inside cut end of the buttonhole 1/2 (+ 1/8) inch from the edge. The purl side, if applicable, of the buttonhole shall face toward the outside of the cuff. The cuff shall be edge stitched 1/4 inch from the edge and the edge stitching shall terminate 5/16 (+ 1/16) inch from top edge of cuff.

The cuffs shall have two buttons for adjustment, the center of the first button shall be 1/2 to 5/8 inch from the front edge of cuff and the center of the second button shall be positioned 3/4 to 1 inch from the center of the first button. The buttons shall be centered in the width of the cuff to correspond with the buttonhole.

3.10.4.9 Short sleeves (Type II). The sleeves shall have a 7/8 (+ 1/8) inch hem with raw edge turned under 1/4 inch. The sleeves may be hemmed before or after seaming the sleeves. When sleeves are seamed after hemming a bartack shall be positioned 1/8 inch from bottom of hem across both sides of sleeve seams with hem turned to one side.

3.10.4.10 Front buttonholes and buttons.

3.10.4.10.1 Type I. The buttonhole marker shall be used to mark buttonhole placement starting at top of shirt. Make front buttonholes on the left front of shirt through the facing, centered over marks on pattern (see 3.10.2). The shirt shall have an eight (8) button front closure, positioned with one horizontal buttonhole at top of left front and seven (7) vertical buttonholes spaced in accordance with buttonhole marker positioned on left front 3/4 (+ 1/16) inch from left front edge. The top horizontal buttonhole shall be centered in the collarstand and front inside cut edge of buttonhole shall be 3/4

(+ 1/16) inch from front edge of collarstand. The buttons shall correspond to the buttonholes and shall be in alignment with each other. The buttons on the pocket flaps shall align horizontally with the third front button on the shirt. The buttons shall be securely sewn through the facing and the center of the button shall be 3/4 (+ 1/16) inch from front edge of shirt. One (1) extra button shall be placed at the bottom of the right front (on outside) approximately 1-1/2 inches from the bottom of the shirt, so as not to interfere with the combination label.

3.10.4.10.2 Type II. The buttonhole marker shall be used to mark buttonhole placement starting at top of shirt. Make front buttonholes on the left front of shirt through the facing, centered over marks on pattern (see 3.10.2). The shirt shall have an eight (8) button front closure, positioned with one horizontal buttonhole at top of left front and seven (7) vertical buttonholes spaced in accordance with buttonhole marker positioned on left front 3/4 (+ 1/16) inch from left front edge. The top horizontal buttonhole shall be at top left front of shirt through the facing with front inside cut edge of buttonhole

1/2 (+ 1/16) inch from front edge and 3/8 (+ 1/1) inch below top of facing. The buttonhole shall be parallel to the facing top. The buttons shall correspond to the buttonholes and shall be in alignment with each other. The top front button shall be reinforced with a button stay of basic or alternate material (see 3.4.3) and shall be sewn only through the top ply of the material. The buttons on the pocket flaps shall align horizontally with the third front button on the shirt. The buttons shall be securely sewn through the facing and the center of the button shall be 3/4 (+ 1/16) inch from front edge of shirt. One (1) extra button shall be placed at the bottom of the right front (on outside) approximately 1-1/2 inches from the bottom of the shirt, so as not to interfere with the combination label.

3.10.4.11 Yoke. The finished yoke shall be without twist or puckers and shall show no fullness between plies of material.

3.10.4.12 Underarm seams. The side seams and sleeve seams shall all meet at the underarm and not be staggered by more than 1/8 inch.

3.10.4.13 Bottom hem. The shirt bottom hem shall finish 1/8 to 5/16 inch wide with the bottom raw edge of shirt turned under and the facings shall be caught in hem. The side seams shall be turned in the same direction as sleeve hems. The seams shall not be twisted. The hem shall finish smooth and flat without puckers or twists.

3.10.4.14 Pressing and closing shirt. The shirt shall have a finished press appearance. If necessary, to achieve the required finished press appearance, touch-up fronts, backs, sleeves and bottom hems and collars before folding for packaging. The shirt shall be fully buttoned.

3.10.4.15 Cleaning. All loose thread shall be removed. All spots, stains and marking tickets shall be removed.

3.11 Finished measurements. The finished shirts shall conform to the measurements specified in Tables VI and VII.

TABLE VI. Finished measurements – Class 1- classic fit

Size

Type I

Collar

1/

Type II

1/2

Chest

2/

Waist

3/

Sweep

4/

Center

Length 5/

Long Sleeve Length 6/

29 30/31 32/33 34/35 36/37 38/39

Type II

Short

Sleeve

Length 7/

13-1/2 14 14-1/2 20-1/2 17-1/2 19-1/4 30-3/8 -- -- 33-1/2 -- -- -- 6-1/2

14 14-1/2 15 21-1/4 18-1/4 20 30-5/8 29-1/2 31-1/2 33-1/2 -- -- -- 6-1/2

14-1/2 15 15-1/2 22 19 20-3/4 30-7/8 -- 31-1/2 33-1/2 -- -- -- 6-1/2

15 15-1/2 16 22-3/4 19-3/4 21-1/2 31-1/8 29-1/2 31-1/2 33-1/2 35-1/2 -- -- 6-1/2

15-1/2 16 16-1/2 23-1/2 20-1/2 22-1/4 31-3/8 -- 31-1/2 33-1/2 35-1/2 -- -- 6-1/2

16 16-1/2 17 24-1/4 21-1/4 23 31-5/8 29-1/2 31-1/2 33-1/2 35-1/2 -- -- 6-1/2

16-1/2 17 17-1/2 25 22 23-3/4 31-7/8 -- 31-1/2 33-1/2 35-1/2 37-1/2 -- 6-1/2

17 17-1/2 18 25-3/4 22-3/4 24-1/2 32-1/8 -- -- 33-1/2 35-1/2 37-1/2 -- 6-1/2

17-1/2 18 18-1/2 26-1/2 23-1/2 25-1/4 32-3/8 -- -- 33-1/2 35-1/2 37-1/2 -- 6-1/2

18 18-1/2 19 27-1/4 24-1/4 26 32-5/8 -- -- 33-1/2 35-1/2 37-1/2 39-1/2 6-1/2

18-1/2 19 19-1/2 28 25 26-3/4 32-7/8 -- -- -- 35-1/2 37-1/2 39-1/2 6-1/2

19 19-1/2 20 28-3/4 25-3/4 27-1/2 33-1/8 -- -- -- 35-1/2 37-1/2 39-1/2 6-1/2

Tol. + 1/4 + 1/4 + 1/4 + 1/4 + 1/4 +1/2 +1/2 +1/2 +1/2 +1/2 +1/2 +1/2 +1/4

1/ Collar: Measure along center of collarstand, from center of button to front cut-end of buttonhole, with collar in flat position.

2/ 1/2 Chest : Measurement across front at the base of armhole, from folded edge to folded edge with shirt buttoned and laid flat.

3/ 1/2 Waist: Measure from folded edge to folded edge at most narrow area of the waist.

4/ 1/2 Sweep: Measure straight across bottom of the shirt from folded edge to folded edge.

5/ Center Back Length: Measure center back from the center back neck seam to the bottom edge of the shirt.

6/ Long sleeve length: Measure from the center back at the collarstand seam, diagonally across back along sleeve, to the center bottom edge of the cuff.

7/ Short sleeve length: Measure along underarm seam, from armhole seam to bottom edge of sleeve.

Measurements for finished pockets and flaps shall be in accordance with the finished pocket and flap templates.

TABLE VII. Finished measurements – Class 2 – athletic fit

Size

Type II

Chest

2/

Waist

3/

Sweep

4/

Center Back

Length 5/

Long Sleeve Length 6

30/31 32/33 34/35 36/37 38/39

Type II

Short

Sleeve

Length 7/

15-1/2 16 16-1/2 24 19-1/2 23 31-3/8 -- 33-1/2 35-1/2 - - 6-1/2

16 16-1/2 17 24-3/4 20-1/4 23-3/4 31-5/8 31-1/2 33-1/2 35-1/2 - - 6-1/2

16-1/2 17 17-1/2 25-1/2 21 24-1/2 31-7/8 - 33-1/2 35-1/2 37-1/2 - 6-1/2

17 17-1/2 18 26-1/4 21-3/4 25-1/4 32-1/8 - 33-1/2 35-1/2 37-1/2 39-1/2 6-1/2

17-1/2 18 18-1/2 27 22-1/2 26 32-3/8 - 33-1/2 35-1/2 37-1/2 39-1/2 6-1/2

18 18-1/2 19 27-3/4 23-1/4 26-3/4 32-5/8 - 33-1/2 35-1/2 37-1/2 39-1/2 6-1/2

18-1/2 19 19-1/2 28-1/2 24 27-1/2 32-7/8 - 33-1/2 35-1/2 37-1/2 39-1/2 6-1/2

19 19-1/2 20 29-1/4 24-3/4 28-1/4 33-1/8 - - 35-1/2 37-1/2 39-1/2 6-1/2

19-1/2 20 20-1/2 30 25-1/2 29 33-3/8 - - 35-1/2 37-1/2 - 6-1/2

20 20-1/2 21 30-3/4 26-1/4 29-3/4 33-5/8 - - 35-1/2 37-1/2 - 6-1/2

Tol. + 1/4 + 1/4 + 1/4 + 1/4 + 1/4 +1/2 +1/2 +1/2 +1/2 +1/2 +1/2 +1/4

1/ Collar: Measure along center of collarstand, from center of button to front cut-end of buttonhole, with collar in flat position.

2/ 1/2 Chest : Measurement across front at the base of armhole, from folded edge to folded edge with shirt buttoned and laid flat.

3/ 1/2 Waist: Measure from folded edge to folded edge at most narrow area of the waist.

4/ 1/2 Sweep: Measure straight across bottom of the shirt from folded edge to folded edge.

5/ Center Back Length: Measure center back from the center back neck seam to the bottom edge of the shirt.

6/ Long sleeve length: Measure from the center back at the collarstand seam, diagonally across back along sleeve, to the center bottom edge of the cuff.

7/ Short sleeve length: Measure along underarm seam, from armhole seam to bottom edge of sleeve.

Measurements for finished pockets and flaps shall be in accordance with the finished pocket and flap templates.

3.12 Workmanship. The finished shirts shall conform to the quality of product established by this specification. The shirts shall be free from all defects which would affect its serviceability, appearance and uniformity.

3.13 Toxicity. The finished shirt shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.7.2. Chemicals recognized by the

Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article inspection. The first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1, shall be inspected for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship and dimensional requirements.

The presence of excessive defects, as defined by contract (see 6.2) or failure to pass any test shall be cause for rejection of the first article. The sample size shall be specified in the procurement document (see 6.2). The sample unit shall be one (1) shirt and the lot size shall be expressed in shirts.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall include shade and appearance of all components, finished measurements in Tables VI and VII and examination for defects in Table

VIII. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4, as defined in the contract (see 6.2), except where otherwise indicated. The sample unit shall be one (1) shirt and the lot size shall be expressed in units of shirts.

4.4 Inspection conditions. In accordance with 4.1, components and end items shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this document or applicable procurement documents (see 6.2). The

Government reserves the right to inspect all components and end items to determine conformance to requirements.

4.5 End item visual examination. Each shirt shall be examined for the defects specified in

MIL-STD-1492. The lot shall be expressed in units of shirts. All fabric and garment defects shall be scored in accordance with Table VIII which are clearly noticeable at normal viewing and affect serviceability and appearance of the finished shirts. Material defects are defined in Section I of

FED-STD-4. If needed, closer inspection will be performed to verify compliance to specification requirements. Shade shall be evaluated at a distance of 3 feet.

TABLE VIII. Visual examination of permanent creases

Defect Point Value

Permanent Creases:

- Variation in the sharpness of any of the creases

- Creases omitted, mispositioned, misaligned, crooked, wavy, angled, or not positioned vertically straight

- Creases on front, pocket and flap do not create the appearance of a single continuous line

- Silicone bead is greater than or less than 1/16 inch

- Silicone not in crease line, excessive silicone, missing silicone, voids or not uniform application

- Evidence of flaking, decomposition, failure to retain creases, cracking, staining or strike back through to face of material

4.6 End item dimensional examination. The shirt shall be examined for conformance to the dimensions specified in Tables VI and VII and specified in Section 3. Any dimension not within the specified tolerance shall be classified as a defect. The lot size shall be expressed in units of shirts. The inspection and the AQL, expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

4.7 Methods of inspection.

4.7.1 Permanent crease testing. The shirt shall be tested as specified in paragraph 4.7.1.1 and

4.7.1.2. Three (3) test specimens shall be cut for testing from each shirt. A single result of failure in any of the specified tests shall be recorded as a lot failure.

4.7.1.1 Permanent crease resistance tests. The shirt samples shall have a minimum rating of “3” when evaluated for permanent crease resistance to dry heat (3 exposures) in accordance with

AATCC 117 at a maximum of 305°F and steam pressing (3 exposures) in accordance with AATCC

132.

4.7.1.2 Permanency of crease test. The permanent crease test specimen shall be soaked for 30 minutes in water containing a minimum amount of suitable wetting agent to thoroughly wet out the cloth. The temperature of the water shall be 165 (+ 5)°F. The wet out test specimens shall be removed without squeezing and shall be air dried or dried at a temperature not exceeding 180°F, while laying flat on an absorbent surface such as paper hand toweling or kitchen type tissue. The wet out and dried out specimens shall be compared with the sample prepared in the same manner.

The sharpness of the crease on the test specimen shall not be less than that of the unwetted samples.

Results shall be reported as “pass” or “fail”.

4.7.2 Toxicity test. When required (see 6.2), an acute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted on laboratory animals. When the results of these studies indicate the (item) is not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in accordance with the Modified Draize Procedure (see 2.3). If the toxicity requirement (see 3.13) can be demonstrated with historical use data, toxicity testing may not be required (see 6.2).

4.8 Seam and fabric appearance evaluation. The shirt shall be evaluated for seam and fabric appearance in accordance with 4.8.1 through 4.8.3.

4.8.1 Apparatus. The following apparatus is required for evaluating samples for seam and fabric appearance:

a. AATCC Three dimensional smoothness appearance replicas.

b. AATCC photographic seam smoothness replicas for evaluating single- and double- needle seams.

4.8.2 Laundering and conditioning procedure. The sample shirt shall be laundered five (5) complete cycles in accordance with AATCC Test Method 143. The laundering parameters are:

Wash time 10 minutes; Machine Cycle Permanent Press; Water temperature 120 (+ 5)°F;

Rinse Cold; Tumble Dry Permanent Press

(NOTE: During any interruptions between cycles and during conditioning and evaluation, the test shirt shall be hung on wooden or plastic hangers and shall be buttoned at the front.)

4.8.3 Evaluation of the appearance of fabric and seams. After the test shirt has been laundered and conditioned as specified in 4.8.2, the shirt shall be evaluated for the characteristics listed in

3.9.1 in accordance with AATCC Test Method 88B for seam appearance and in accordance with

AATCC 143 for fabric appearance. Each characteristic shall be assigned an average numerical value and the values recorded. A test failure shall be reported if any appearance rating falls below the minimum average of three (3) ratings or any one (1) observation rating falls below a rating of

“3”.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When actual packaging of the shirts is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain requisite packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the

Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Department of Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Departments or Agencies automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The shirts are intended for wear by male personnel of the Army as part of the

Army Service Uniform (ASU).

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this Purchase Description.

b. Type, class, size and length required (see 1.2).

c. The specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2).

d. When first article is required (see 3.1 and 4.2).

e. Number of first article samples (see 4.2).

f. Conformance inspection and acceptance quality limits (see 4.3).

g. Inspection conditions (see 4.4).

h. Toxicity requirements (see 4.7.2).

i. Packaging requirements (see 5.1).

6.3 First article. When a first article is required (see 3.1), it will be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisions of FAR 52.209-4. The first article should be a pre-production sample. The contracting officer should specify the appropriate type of first article and the number of units to be furnished. The contracting officer should include specific instructions in all acquisitions documents regarding arrangements for selection, inspection and approval of the first article.

6.4 Standard sample and Government pattern. For access to standard shade samples and government patterns, address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal. Standard shade samples are also available at DLA Troop Support at http://dscp.dla.mil/Portal/sreqfrm.aspx.

6.5 Seam appearance. In order to avoid puckering and to produce the flattest seams possible, consideration must be given to the following:

a. The needles used for all seams should be as fine as possible consistent with the size or diameter of the thread used.

b. The throat plate hole should be no larger than necessary to permit free entry of the needle and to prevent flagging.

c. The finest feed (approximately 18 teeth) possible should be used with a pressure foot to exactly match the shape and size of the feed. The face of the pressure foot (underside next to the feed on the machine) should be highly polished to eliminate roughness and reduce drag. Diamond shaped feed teeth have been used quite successfully.

d. The lightest foot pressure should be used to prevent stretching of the top ply of material.

e. In the safety stitch machine (515, 516, 519) the upper and lower trimming knives should be kept at peak sharpness to prevent “dragging” of the edge of the fabric.

f. In stitch type 301 sewing, the bobbin tension should be adjusted to that when a full bobbin is placed in the bobbin case and thread through the tension spring, the bobbin and case shall ride slowly down the thread when the free end of the thread is held in the vertical position. Needle http://dscp.dla.mil/Portal/sreqfrm.aspx tension should be adjusted after the bobbin tension to provide slightly more needle thread than bobbin thread in the stitch.

g. When sewing with stitch type 401(including the seaming row of the safety stitches), the thread ratio (needle and looper) should be adjusted to produce a stitch with 60 to 70 percent needle thread, and both needle and looper thread tension shall be held to the minimum.

h. Thread take-up mechanism should be set on all machines to relieve as much tension as possible when forming the stitch. All thread contacts should be well polished and free of burrs, cuts, and rough spots.

6.6 Ultrasonic welding…