32231B.pdf

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

MIL-DTL-32231B

11 January 2024

SUPERSEDING

MIL-DTL-32231A

13 July 2020

DETAIL SPECIFICATION

CLOTH, POLYESTER/COTTON

This document is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense (DoD).

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for a polyester/cotton herringbone cloth treated with durable press and soil release finishes.

1.2 Classification. This specification covers the following types and classes.

1.2.1 Types.

Type I - No stretch Type II - Stretch

1.2.2 Classes.

Class 1 - White 521 (Army) Class 2 - Gray 510 (Army-JROTC) Class 3 - Blue 1664 (Air Force) Class 4 - Cadet Grey 563 (West Point) Class 5 - Gray 1698 (Space Force)

AMSC N/A FSC 8305

INCH-POUND

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed: Attn: DLA Troop Support, 700 Robbins Street, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5096. Since contact information can change, verify the currency of the address information using Acquisition Streamlining and Standardization Information System (ASSIST) online database https://assist.dla.mil.

Source: http://assist.dla.mil -- Downloaded: 2024-04-03T14:22Z Check the source to verify that this is the current version before use.

MIL DTL-32231B

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester Covered

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS

MIL-STD-3064 - Evaluation of Quality of Textile Materials

(Copies of this document are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

CODE OF FEDERAL REGULATIONS

Title 16 CFR Part 303 - Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Product Identification Act

(Copies of this document are available online at https://www.ecfr.gov.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC EP1 - Evaluation Procedure for Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC EP2 - Evaluation Procedure for Gray Scale for Staining AATCC EP8 - Evaluation Procedure for AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale AATCC EP9 - Evaluation Procedure for Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles AATCC TM8 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter AATCC TM15 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC TM16.3 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Light: Xenon Arc AATCC TM20A - Test Method for Fiber Analysis: Quantitative AATCC TM61 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated AATCC TM81 - Test Method for pH of the Water-Extract from Wet Processed AATCC TM117 - Textiles Test Method for Colorfastness to Heat:

Dry (Excluding Pressing) AATCC TM 124 - Test Method for Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics after Repeated Home Laundering AATCC TM130 - Test Method for Soil Release: Oily Stain Release AATCC TM135 - Test Method for Dimensional Change of Fabrics after Home Laundering AATCC TM197 - Test Method for Vertical Wicking of Textiles

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies of this document are available online at https://asq.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D1424 - Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling- Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) Apparatus ASTM D1683/D1683M - Standard Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Fabrics ASTM D3107 - Standard Test Method for Stretch Properties of Fabric Woven from Stretch Yarns.

ASTM D3512/D3512M - Standard Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Related Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Random Tumble Pilling Tester ASTM D3775 - Standard Test Method for End (Warp) and Pick (Filling) Count of Woven Fabrics ASTM D3776/D3776M - Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric ASTM D3990 - Standard Terminology Rating to Fabric Defects.

ASTM D5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.astm.org.)

SDL ATLAS

Part Number 402985 – Slub/Knot Replica Set

(Replica set is available for purchase from SDL Atlas Customer Service, 1-803-329-2110)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Unless a specific exemption has been obtained, nothing in this document, supersedes applicable laws and regulations.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Standard sample. Unless otherwise indicated, the finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance, and shall, be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6.3).

3.3 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.4 Figure. Figure 1 is furnished for informational purposes only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written document and the figure, the written document shall govern.

3.5 Materials.

3.5.1 Basic material. All yarns shall be a blend of polyester and cotton, drawn and spun into single yarns for both the warp and filling. The finished cloth shall contain 65 (±5) percent polyester with the remaining percentage of cotton. The cotton shall be carded.

3.5.2 Weave. The weave shall be a 2 x 2 twill drawn on four (4) harnesses with a four (4) pick repeat (see Figure 1). Type I shall have no stretch and Type II shall have mechanical stretch when tested as specified in 4.5.

3.6 Color. The color of the dyed and finished cloth shall be Army White 521 (Class 1), Army-JROTC Gray 510 (Class 2), Air Force Blue 1664 (Class 3), West Point Cadet Grey 563 (Class 4) and Space Force Gray 1698 (Class 5) or as specified in the contract.

3.6.1 Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the cloth specified in 3.6 shall match the standard sample when tested as specified in 4.6.1.

3.6.2 Colorfastness (all types and classes). The finished cloth shall conform to the colorfastness requirements listed below in Table I when tested as specified in 4.5.

TABLE I. Colorfastness requirements (all types and classes).

Colors Evaluation

Laundering Color Change and Staining

(3 cycles) (min.)

Light (after 40 AFU or 170 kJ/

(m2nm)@420 nm) (min.) 1/

Perspiration Color Change and Staining) (min.)

Crocking Dry/Wet (min.) 2/

Dry Heat (min.)

White 521 3-4 3-4 3-4 N/A 3-4 Gray 510 3-4 3-4 3-4 3.5 3-4 Blue 1664 3-4 3-4 3-4 3.5 3-4 Cadet Grey 563 3-4 3-4 3-4 3.0 3-4 Gray 1698 3-4 3-4 3-4 3.5 3-4 1/ AFU: AATCC Fading Units.

2/ Crocking (Dry and Wet) shall not apply to White 521.

3.6.3 Labile sulfur. Dyes and compounds containing elementary sulfur capable of oxidation to sulfuric acid shall not be used. The dyed cloth shall be “Free” of labile sulfur when tested as specified in 4.5 and 4.6.2.

3.7 Physical requirements. The finished cloth shall conform to the requirements, listed below, in Table II, when tested as specified in 4.5.

THIS SPACE LEFT INTENTIONALLY BLANK

TABLE II. Physical requirements.

Characteristic Type I Type II

All Classes Classes 1, 2, 4 Classes 3, 5 Weight, oz./sq. yd. 5.0 (± 0.25) 4.5 (± 0.25) 4.5 (± 0.25) Yarns per inch, minimum Warp

Filling

Breaking strength (pounds), minimum

Tearing strength (pounds), minimum

4.0

5.0 5.0

Seam efficiency (percent), minimum

N/A

Seam strength (pounds), minimum

Stretch, percent-Type II only Initial (filling only)

8-12

8-12

Pilling, rating Initial After five (5) laundering cycles

3.5

3.8 Finish. The cloth (Type I and Type II) shall be scoured, bleached (except for Class 3), singed and stabilized to match the finish appearance of the standard sample. The cloth for all types and classes shall be treated with a durable press and soil release finish. In addition, for all types, Class 1 shall be treated with an optical brightener and Classes 3 and 5, shall be treated with a moisture wicking finish.

3.8.1 Durable press finish. The durable press treated cloth shall exhibit a fabric appearance rating of not less than SA-3.5 after five (5) laundering cycles when tested as specified in 4.5.

3.8.2 Soil release finish. The soil release treated cloth shall exhibit a rating of not less than a Grade 4 after one (1) laundering cycle for all classes. After five (5) laundering cycles it shall exhibit a rating of Grade 4 for Classes 1 and 2, a rating of 3.5 for Class 3 (Air Force) and Class 5 (Space Force) and a rating of 3.0 for Class 4 when tested as specified in 4.5.

3.8.3 Optical brightener (Class 1 only). The cloth shall show a rating of pass for optical brightener content when tested as specified in 4.5.

3.8.4 Wicking finish (Classes 3 and 5 only). The wicking treated cloth shall show a wicking of not less than 2.25-inches in warp direction and 1.75-inches in filling direction in 5 minutes, and 3.75-inches in warp direction and 3-inches in filling direction in 15 minutes, when tested as specified in 4.5.

3.9 Dimensional change. The shrinkage or growth both in the warp and the filling direction of the finished cloth shall be not greater than 2.0 percent for Type I and Type II, Classes 3, 4 and 5, and 3.0 percent for Type I and Type II, Classes 1 and 2 after three (3) laundering cycles when tested as specified in 4.5.

3.10 pH. The pH value of the water extract of the finished cloth shall be no less than 5.0 nor more than 8.5 when tested as specified in 4.5.

3.11 Toxicity. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or procurement documents, the finished polyester/cotton cloth shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.6.3.

3.12 Face identification. The warp side shall be identified as the face side by stamping that side with the word “FACE” at each end of the roll.

3.13 Width. For Government procurements only, the width of the finished cloth shall be as specified (see 6.2) and shall be the minimum acceptable width inclusive of the selvage.

3.14 Length and put-up. For Government procurements only, unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the cloth shall be finished in continuous lengths, each not less than 40 yards. Each length shall be put-up full width on a roll as specified in 5.1.

3.15 Fiber identification. Each roll of the finished cloth shall be labeled or ticked for fiber content in accordance with Title 16 CFR Part 303, the Rules and Regulations under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act.

3.16 Workmanship. The finished cloth shall be uniform in quality and shall conform to the quality of product established on this specification.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2)

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3)

4.2 First article inspection. A first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1, shall be inspected, examined for appearance, color and finished defects listed in 4.4 and tested for the characteristics as specified in 4.5 and 4.6.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall include the visual examination of

4.4 and the tests of 4.5 and 4.6 as applicable. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 and with acceptance quality limits (AQLs) as specified in the contract and/or order, except where otherwise indicated (see 6.2).

4.3.1 Inspection conditions. Unless otherwise specified in this specification or applicable procurements (see 6.2), all inspections shall be performed in accordance with this specification and all the requirements of referenced documents.

4.4 Visual examination. Each roll in the sample shall be examined yard-by-yard on the face side for defects in accordance with MIL-STD-3064, Type I.

4.4.1 Roll identification and marking examination. During the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the sample shall be examined for defects as specified in MIL-STD-3064.

4.4.2 Shade variation examination. During the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the sample shall be examined for shade variation as specified in MIL-STD-3064.

4.4.3 Length examination. For Government procurements only, during the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the sample shall be examined for length as specified in MIL-STD-3064.

4.5 Material/end item testing. The cloth shall be tested for the characteristics listed in Table III. The methods of testing as specified wherever applicable and as listed in Table III shall be followed. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final results. The sample unit shall be five (5) continuous yards full width of the finished cloth for all physical and chemical tests. The lot shall be unacceptable if one (1) or more tests fail to meet the requirement specified. The sample size shall be in accordance with the following:

Lot size (yards) Sample size (sample units)

800 or less 2

801 up to and including 22,000 3 22,001 and over 5

TABLE III. Material/end item tests.

Characteristic Requirement Reference

Test method

Fiber content 3.5.1 AATCC TM20A 1/ Yarn ply (single) 3.5.1 Visual 2/ Weave 3.5.2 Visual 2/ Visual shade matching 3.6.1 AATCC EP9, Option C

4.6.1 (see 6.4 and 6.4.1) Colorfastness:

Laundering (after three (3) cycles) Light (after 40 AFU or 170 kJ/ (m2nm)@420 nm) Perspiration (acid and alkaline) Crocking (wet and dry) Dry Heat

Table I

AATCC TM61, Option 2A 3/ AATCC TM16.3, Option 3 4/

AATCC TM15 3/

AATCC TM8 5/

AATCC TM117, II

Labile sulfur 3.6.3 4.6.2 Weight Table II ASTM D3776/D3776M Yarns per inch Table II ASTM D3775 Breaking strength Table II ASTM D5034 Tearing strength Table II ASTM D1424 Seam efficiency Table II ASTM D1683/D1683M 6/ Seam Strength (Type II, Classes 3 and 5 only)

Table II

ASTM D1683/D1683M 6/

Stretch (filling only), Type II Table II ASTM D3107 Pilling:

Initial

ASTM D3512/D3512M

AATCC TM135, (3),(IV),iii &

ASTM D3512/D3512M

Durable press finish

3.8.1

AATCC TM124, (3),(IV),iii

Soil release After one (1) laundering cycle

3.8.2 3.8.2

AATCC TM130, Option IV 7/ AATCC TM130, Option IV 8/

Optical brightener (Class 1 only) 3.8.3 AATCC EP9, Option C, 9/, 2/ Wicking finish (Classes 3 and 5, only) Time – 5 minutes Time – 15 minutes

3.8.4

AATCC TM197, Option B

Dimensional change After three (3) laundering cycles

3.9

AATCC TM135, (3),(IV),iii pH 3.10 AATCC TM81 Toxicity 3.11 4.6.3 1/ The cotton content shall be calculated as follows:

Cotton content, percent = R/S x 100 R = Weight of residual fibers S = Weight of dry desized specimen

2/ One determination shall be made from each sample unit and the result reported as “pass” or “fail”.

3/ Rated using the AATCC EP1 and AATCC EP2.

4/ Rated using the AATCC EP1.

5/ Rated using the AATCC EP8.

6/ The needle shall measure 0.036 ± 0.001 inch across the blade at the eye. The polyester/cotton wrapped thread shall conform to Type I of A-A-50199. The thread shall be Tex 31-35, 2-ply for the needle and Tex 31-35 for the looper. The seam shall be LSc-2.

7/ Launder four (4) specimens. Only two (2) specimens shall be treated with stains.

8/ After the first laundering cycle, the two (2) unstained samples shall be laundered an additional four (4) more cycles and then stained. Launder stained samples one (1) more time and then the samples shall be evaluated for stain removal after five (5) laundering cycles.

9/ Sample shall be viewed under UV illumination.

4.6 Methods of testing and inspection.

4.6.1 Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the cloths shall match the standard sample when viewed using the AATCC EP 9, Option C, (see 6.4) with a primary light source simulating the spectral quality of average daylight, CIE Illuminant D65, with a color temperature of 6500 (± 200) Kelvin (K) illumination of 100 (± 20) foot candles. Alternatively, the color and appearance of the cloths shall match the standard sample with a primary light source simulating artificial daylight, CIE Illuminant D75, with a color temperature of 7500K (± 200) illumination of 100 (± 20) foot candles in lieu of D65. (See 6.4.1). The cloths shall also be a good match to the standard sample with a secondary source simulating the spectral quality of incandescent lamplight, CIE Illuminant A, with a color temperature of 2856K (± 200).

4.6.2 Presence of labile sulfur test. Two (2) 1.50 (± 0.01) gram samples from each sample unit shall be tested. Each of the two (2) samples shall be cut into very small pieces and placed into separate test tubes. Prepare an acidic tin(II) chloride (stannous chloride) solution by dissolving 100 g SnCl2 (ACS grade) in 100 mL of 35% hydrochloric acid (ACS grade) and adding the mixture to 50 mL of distilled water. Prepare a lead acetate solution by dissolving

5.0 g of lead acetate (CP reagent grade) in a small amount of distilled water and diluting to a total of 100 mL. If the solution is not clear, add a few drops (one at a time) of glacial acetic acid until the solution is clear. The samples shall be submersed the acidic tin(II) chloride solution. A filter paper wet out with the lead acetate solution shall be placed over the top of the test tube.

The test tube containing the textile sample, tin(II) chloride and wet filter paper shall be heated over a low flame until the solution is boiling. The solution should not be heated for more than 15 seconds. A brown to black stain on the filter paper should be evaluated as follows:

Free - The filter paper shows no discoloration or staining of any kind.

Slight - The filter paper shows a light tan to light brown discoloration stain.

Moderate - The filter paper shows a dark brown discoloration stain.

Severe - The filter paper shows a black color stain.

The rating shall be recorded. The results shall be recorded as “pass” or “fail.

4.6.3 Toxicity test. When the toxicity requirement (see 3.11) can be demonstrated with historical use data on the finishing treatments used, toxicity testing may not be required (see 6.6 and 6.7).

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When actual packaging of material is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain requisite packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Department or Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The Class 1 cloth is intended for use in the manufacturing of shirts worn by Army personnel as part of the Army Service Uniform (ASU), Class 2 cloth is intended for use in the manufacturing of shirts worn by Army-JROTC, Class 3 by Air Force personnel as part of the Service Dress Uniform, Class 4 by the Cadets at West Point, and Class 5 as part of the Space Force Service Dress Uniform.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number, and date of this specification

b. Type and class required (see 1.2)

c. The specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2)

d. When first article is required (see 3.1, 4.2)

e. When toxicity testing is required (see 3.11, 4.6.3)

f. Width of cloth required (see 3.13)

g. Length required if other than specified (see 3.14)

h. Conformance inspection acceptance quality limits (AQLs) (see 4.3)

i. Inspection conditions (see 4.3.1)

j. Packaging (see 5.1)

6.3 Standard sample. For access to standard samples, address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal.

6.4 Visual shade matching. In 2017, Option A of AATCC EP9 was changed to Option C.

NOTE: In case of confusion, the viewing geometry should be “The specimen plane and illumination source will be parallel to each other and aligned so that the light flux is incident at the center of the specimen plane, which is set at a 35 degrees (± 5 degree) angle relative to the horizontal. The observer will view the specimens at a 90o angle, relative to the plane of the specimens”.

6.4.1 In 2022, the U.S. Military (All Services) accepted D65 as the new preferred light source for visual shade matching due to the supply chain issues with D75.

6.5 Cross-reference. Army Cloth, Polyester/Cotton, GL PD 11-05B has been replaced by this document.

6.6 Certificate of compliance. The contracting activity may select to accept a certificate of compliance for stated requirement.

6.7 Toxicity testing. If dermal toxicity testing is required, it will be conducted using Title 40, Protection of Environment, Code of Federal Regulations current edition and applicable sections, which are also consistent with the following OECD tests:

Skin Sensitization 406 and Dermal Irritation 404 (https://www.oecd-ilibrary.org/environment/oecd-guidelines-for-the-testing-of-chemicals-section-4-health-effects_20745788?page=1)

Dermal Sensitization (https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/40/798.4100) Dermal Toxicity (https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/40/798.2250)

6.8 Changes from previous issue. Marginal notations are not used in this revision to identify changes with respect to the previous issue due to the extent of the changes. NOTE Class 5 for Space Force was added to the specification.

6.7 Subject term (key word) listing.

Durable press Fabric Soil Release Stretch Wicking

X X

Weave

Chain 2X2 Twill

4 X X X 3 X X X 2 X X X X 1 X X X

Pattern Draw

Harness #

FIGURE 1. Herringbone pattern.

Custodians: Preparing activity:

Army - GL DLA-CT Navy - NU Air Force - 11 (Project 8305-2023-018)

Review activities Army - MD Navy - CG1, MC

NOTE: The activities listed above were interested in this document as of date of this document. Since organizations and responsibilities can change, you should verify the currency of the information above using ASSIST online database at https://assist.dla.mil.