Mens Service Coat Specs 14 Apr 11.doc

FA7000-11-T-0044

Attachment 1

USAFA CU 120-09

14 April 2011

SUPERSEDING

4 June 2010

USAFA CU 120-09

14 April 2011

SUPERSEDING

4 June 2010

UNITED STATES AIR FORCE ACADEMY

SPECIFICATION USAFA CU 120-09

14 April 2011

COAT, SERVICE, CADET, MEN’S

COAT, CADET, MEN’S, SERVICE

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for service coats worn by male cadets at the United States Air Force Academy.

1.2 Classification. The coat shall be of the one type in the following classes (see 6.2).

Class 1: Stock

Class 2: Made to Measure

1.2.1 Lengths and sizes. The coats shall be furnished in the following lengths and sizes, as specified (see 6.2):

Table I. Schedule of sizes (chest)

Med. Reg

Regular

Med. Long

Long

X-Long

XX-Long

1.2.2 Class 2 - Made to Measure. The finished measurements of these coats will depend upon the result of the individual’s measurements, which will be furnished by the government. (see 6.2)

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS.

2.1. Government documents

2.1.1. Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of theses documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto cited in the solicitation (see 6.2).

SPECIFICATIONS

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION

FEDERAL

Military

STANDARDS

Military

ASTM

ANSI

2.1.2 Standards Sources Copies of specifications, standards, drawings and publications required by suppliers in connection with specific procurement specific procurement functions shall be obtained by contacting the following organizations:

2.1.2.1 FOR COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION, FEDERAL OR MILITARY STANDARDS AND SPECIFICATIONS Write to:

Document Automation and Production Service, Building 4/D

700 Robbins Avenue

Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.

2.2 Non-government publications. The following documents form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise indicated, the issues of the documents, which are DOD adopted, are those listed in the issue of the DODISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS are the issues of documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2).

2.2.1 AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIAL

Write or call:

ASTM 100 Barr Harbor Dr, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, Phone (610) 832-9585

2.2.2 THE Color association of the united states

Write to:

Color Association of the United States, Inc.

343 Lexington Avenue

New York, NY 10016-0927

2.2.3 For American National Standard Institute such as the following Write or call:

ASTM

1819 L Street NW 6th floor

Washington, DC, 20036

Phone: 212-642-4900 (customer Service)

2.3. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Guide sample. Guide samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case this specification shall govern.

3.2 Sample Approval

3.2.1 First article. When required (see 6.2) and before each production is commenced, the contractor shall submit to the contracting officer, for approval, one finished coat -- men’s service, size 40 regular -- conforming to the requirements of this specification. Contractors are notified that, where articles have been previously furnished and been accepted (within the last 5 years), the requirement for first article approval may be waived. Contractors must have the ability to develop and grade working patterns from first article or prototype garments submitted.

3.3 Materials

3. 3. 1 Basic Fabric. The basic fabric for the service coat shall be 10 -ounce cloth, tropical: wool, polyester/wool, USAFA blue shade 540, conforming to MIL-C-21115, as supplemented by USAFA Supplement 1, 28 March 1996. The material for the pocket flap linings shall conform to Type III o f MIL-C-21115. The government shall be responsible for sponging the fabric so that the maximum shrinkage after sponging shall be no more than 3% in either the warp or the filling direction.

3. 3. 2 Twill Cloth. The twill cloth for the inside hanging lower pockets, the inside hanging breast pocket, top of vent, the armholes, the shoulder and front interlining stays shall conform to Class 2 of A-A-52106, except that the non-fibrous materials, the seam efficiency and the colorfastness requirement shall not apply. The color shall be black and the minimum weight shall be 5 ounces per square yard.

3. 3. 3 Buttons. The buttons shall conform to Type I, Style 1, Class B, short shank (Wings & Star) of Specification MIL-B-3461. The size of the buttons shall be 36 line for the front and 25 line for the pockets. The buttons for the flaps of the inside lower hanging pockets and of the breast pocket shall be furnished with the split pin or the ring type toggles specified in MIL-B-3461. The stay buttons conform to Type II, Class D, Style 15, Size 18 line of V-B-871. The contractor may also use a machine lock stitch instead of a stay button. The color of the stay button shall approximately match the basic fabric.

3. 3. 4 Interlining.

3. 3. 4. 1 Lining. The lining for the body, sleeves, and the inside pocket pieces shall conform to Class 1 of MIL-C-368 and shall be USAF Color Shade No. 1086 (see 6.3).

3. 3. 4. 2 Interlining for front and sides. The interlining for the front and side shall be Type V, Class 1, Style B of MIL-C-44296.

3. 3. 4. 3 Interlining for Sleeve Bottom. The material for interlining the sleeve bottom shall conform to Type I of MIL-C-44296, except that the requirement for breaking strength shall not apply.

3. 3. 4. 4 Padding for Front Interlining. The material for padding the front interlining shall be flannel or felt. The flannel shall be fusible, unbleached, double-napped, cotton flannel cloth conforming to the requirements of Table I. The felt shall be natural-color, pressed felt and shall consist of wool and cotton; or wool, cotton and any other cellulose fibers conforming to the requirements of Table III. The polyamide dot coating shall increase the weight requirements from 5 to 6 ounces per square yard.

3. 3. 5 Patch Pockets, Pocket Flaps and Shoulder Loops. The interlining for the patch pockets, the pocket flaps and the shoulder loops shall be a lightweight fusible cloth that is suitable for the purpose intended, matching the basic fabric, and of good commercial quality.

3. 3. 6 Undercollar. The material for the undercollar shall conform to A-A-50067, except that the colorfastness requirements to perspiration and crocking shall not apply. The color shall be USAF Color Shade No. 1549.

3. 3. 6. 1 Undercollar Interlining. The material for the undercollar interlining shall be in conformance with A-A-50186

3. 3. 7 Identification of Service Coat. Each coat shall have a combination contractor, identification, and care label and a removable paper size ticket with Code 39 bar code.

3. 3. 7. 1 Combination Contractor, Identification, And Care Label. The combination label shall be cloth, cotton, permanent-coated, conforming to Type VI, classes 1, 2, 10, and 14 of Specification DDD-L-20. The label shall show the following information:

Item Description *

Size **

Cadet Name

Supplier’s Name *

Fabric Content *

Care Instruction *

Applicable data to be inserted by the contractor when labels are printed.

Applicable data to be stamped in by contractor using permanent-type black ink after labels are printed.

3. 3. 7. 2 Removable Size/Bar Code Ticket. The removable paper size ticket shall be approximately 2” X 3” and be of regular commercial paper construction. The letters and numbers for the size ticket shall be 1/4” high. Size 38 regular shall be expressed as 38R, etc. The code 39 bar code shall be 1/2” in height and shall reflect the stock number of the garment. For all coats, the label shall be tacked to the outside, lower part of the left sleeve.

3. 3. 8 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to Type I, Class 1 of MIL-P-15064. The curved edge, back half, shall be over edge stitched through all plies to prevent raveling, or needle punch shoulder pads can be used.

3. 3. 9 Sleeve-Head Pads. The sleeve-head pads shall conform to Type IV of MIL-P-15064. The front part of the sleeve-head pads for the coat shall be covered with bias-cut canvas that is 4 inches long by 3 inches wide and conforms to Type II of MIL-C-297.

3. 3. 10 Stay Tape. The tapes for staying the armhole and bridle shall be cotton, conforming to Type I, class 1 or 3 of A-A52071, except that the nonfibrous material content shall not apply. The color shall be natural, bleached or black. The tape for staying the bridle shall be ½ inch wide. The tape for staying the armhole shall be ¼ inch wide. The tape for back neckline shall be cross-cut, made from natural or dyed black polyester blend cloth conforming to class 1 of A-A-52106 The raw edges of the tape shall be treated with a synthetic resin to prevent raveling. The tape for the neckline shall be ½ inch wide.

3. 3. 10. 1 Fusible Tape. As an option, double-faced fusible tape may be used for the left vent and for anchoring the hanging pockets.

3. 3. 11 Hanger. The material for the hanger shall be cotton or rayon, tubular, flat braid. The braid shall be 1/8 inch to 3/16 inch wide and shall have a breaking strength of not less than 50 pounds in the warp direction. The braid shall be black and shall have good colorfastness to crocking and wet dry cleaning.

3. 3. 12 Cross Tape. The twill cloth for the cross tape for the back of the neck gorge of the fronts and for the fronts of the coats shall conform to Class 1 of A-A-52106except that the requirements for non-fibrous material, and the cloth shall be cut across the width in strips of 5/8 inch (+ 1/16”) wide. The ends of the strips shall be abutted or overlapped and stitched with diagonal stitching. The diagonal stitching shall be a minimum of 8 stitches per inch with a bight (throw of 1/8 to 3/16 inch). The edges of the tape shall be treated with a synthetic resin to prevent raveling.

3. 3. 13 Sleeve Braid. The braid for each sleeve shall be braid, mohair, flat, one inch wide. The color shall be Cable Color No. 70090. The braid shall conform to Type I, Class 1, of A-A-55187. The braid shall conform to Type I, Class 1, of A-A-55187.

3. 3. 14 Thread. All threads shall have good colorfastness to wet/dry cleaning and perspiration. The cotton or polyester-covered, polyester core thread shall conform to A-A-50199. The colored thread shall be DoD thread Shade Navy Blue AT, Cable No. 66060 and shall have good colorfastness to wet-dry cleaning, perspiration and light. The thread for topstitching shall be black. The cotton thread for seaming the coats shall conform to Table II A-A-50196. The silk thread for hand felling shall conform to Type III, Class 3, Ticket A or C, two-ply of A-A-50196. The silk thread for machine felling, shall conform to Type I, three ply of A-A-50196. The silk thread for machine edge stitching shall be black and conform to Type 1, No. A, 3-ply of, A-A-50196.

3. 3. 14. 1 Silk Thread. The thread for all topstitching, buttonholes and bartacks shall conform to Type I, Ticket No. A, B, and C, 3–ply of VT-301. (Except that the requirement for extractable material shall not apply).

3. 3. 14. 2 Cotton Thread. The thread for seaming and stitching the coat shall conform to A-A-50199.

3. 3. 14. 3 Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing the buttonholes shall be cotton size No. 8 conforming to type I or II of A-A-50198.

3. 4 Design. The coat shall be single-breasted, four-buttoned with notched lapels. The back shall be two pieces with center vent. The front shall have two pleated breast pockets with flaps. The lower pockets shall consist of flaps only, without pockets. Each flap shall have a cut first buttonhole, centered on the flap with the eyelet cut to accommodate a button held in place with a toggle. The inside coat shall be one-half lined with the exposed bound with piping and shall have one inside hanging pocket on the right front.

3. 5 Patterns. One properly sized and identified standard/master pattern size 40R shall be furnished upon request to the contractor by 10LRS/LGRCU, Cadet Uniform Section, for grading and development of necessary working patterns. The working patterns shall be identical to the USAFA pattern, and shall not be altered in any way. The patterns provide the following allowances: ¼” for lapel and front edge seams; ¾” outlets on side seams and center back seam; ½” side body seam; ½” outlet on front of under sleeve, and lining; 1” turn up for bottom hem; and a 3/8” seam allowance for all other seams unless otherwise specified herein. The 10LRS/LGRCU furnished pattern shall be returned to the Cadet Uniform Section, 10LRS/LGRCU, USAF Academy CO 80840-8210 prior to the last shipments being received by the USAF Academy.

3. 5. 1 Parts. The component parts of the coat shall be cut from materials as specified in accordance with the number of parts specified in Table VI.

TABLE II. PATTERN PARTS

TABLE II. PATTERN PARTS (Cont.)

Lapel Shaper

Finished Lapel and Collar Shaper

Undercollar Shaper

Breast Pocket Shaper

Finished Breast Pocket Flap Shaper

3. 6 Construction.

3. 6. 1 Stitches, And Seams. Stitch, and seam types specified in Table II shall conform to ASTM-D6193. Wherever 2 or more seam or stitch types are specified for the same operation, any one of them may be used. The ends of all seams and stitching produced with Stitch Type 301, if not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be back stitched not less than 1/4” Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of break 1/2” to 1”. The stitches per inch specified herein shall be interpreted to be the minimum and the maximum permitted.

3. 6. 1. 1 Fusing. Fusing operations shall be in accordance with the procedures recommended by the producers of the fusible materials.

3. 6. 1. 2 Top and Edge Stitching. Black silk thread shall be used for flap stitching, pocket setting and edge stitching. Shade of thread used in construction and assembling of component parts shall be used either black or dark blue. However, one kind of thread shall be used consistently throughout the coat during stitching operation.

3. 6. 1. 3 Bartacks. Bartacks shall measure 3/16” long, and be free from thread breaks and loose stitching.

3. 6. 1. 4 Marking. The component parts of the coat shall be marked to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of marking may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices. No metal device or sew-on type markings shall be used on rayon lining.

b. Adhesive type tickets, which discolor the material or leave traces of paper or adhesive on the material after removal of the tickets.

NOTE: The use of ink pad numbering or machine rubber stamp or pencil is allowed, provided the numbering does not show on the outside of the garment, and wherever possible, is covered by the seam allowance.

3. 6. 5 Use of Automated Apparel Equipment. Automated apparel equipment may be used to perform any of the sewing operations, providing that the seam and stitch type are as specified and the finished component conforms to the required configuration.

3. 7 Wool Contents. Each coat shall be labeled in accordance with the Wool products Labeling Act of 1939. The wool contents may be included in the combination contractor and identification label.

3. 8 Pressing. Pressing shall be performed by use of a heated pressing iron or machine as commercially used for dress coats.

3. 9 Workmanship. The coats shall be clean, finished correctly to include pressing by hand or machine, and free from any defects that might affect appearance or serviceability.

3. 10 Finished Measurements. The finished measurements of the coats shall conform to Table IV for Class 1, and to the made to measure ticket for Class 2.

TABLE III - MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

TYPE

1. CUT BASIC FABRIC

a. The basic material shall be spread face to face. The spread of cloth shall be in a suitable number of plies for the applicable fabric.

b. The material shall be carefully laid up in uniform widths and lengths. Care shall be taken in spreading the material so that the plies are not stretched or full and so that one side of the lay is even. Each component part in the top ply of the main lay shall be marked with the size of the coat.

c. The coat shall be cut in strict accordance with the patterns, which shall show size, directional lines for cutting, markings, and notches for placement of pockets and flaps, shape, and proper assembling of all parts. All component parts to be cut from the basic material shall be cut from the same bolt of fabric.

d. The front waist dart shall be cut in accordance with the marks on the patterns. The shoulder loops, the pocket flaps, and the top collar shall be cut across the width of the material. The flap lining shall be cut across the width of the material.

e. The left front and front facing shall be trimmed in the front shaping operation. The use of drill holes for pocket darts and flap locations is prohibited.

f. Replace at the time of cutting, any parts containing holes or weakening defects such as smashes, multiple floats, and slubs likely to develop into a hole.

2. CUT THE LINING

a. The material for the body lining, sleeve lining, armhole shields, right vent, yoke, and inside breast pocket facings shall be cut in the direction of the warp. The sleeve linings and the underside of the shields may be cut out of ends. When the sleeve linings are cut from ends, the parts shall match and the sleeves shall match each other.

TYPE

2. CUT THE LINING (cont.)

b. Each component part in the top ply of the main lay shall be marked with the size of the coat.

3. CUT TRIMMINGS

a. Cut fusible interlinings in the same direction as the parts to fused.

b. The cloth for armhole, shoulder and interlining stays shall be cut on the bias. The cloth for inside breast pocket, pocket stays and vent stays shall be cut in the direction of the warp.

c. The felt fabric composite undercollar cloth shall be die-cut as indicated by the lines on the pattern.

d. The wigan interlining for sleeve bottom shall be cut on the bias.

e. The bindings for the bottom of the coat, side seams, center back seams, and the back edge of the left vent shall be bias cut and shall be 3/4 or 7/8 inch in width. The binding for the top edge of the outside breast patch pocket shall be 7/8 to 1 inch wide.

4. REPLACEMENT OF DAMAGED PARTS.

Care shall be exercised during the spreading, cutting and manufacturing operations to assure that material defects and damages (which may be a hole, scissors or knife cut, tear, holes, mends, burns, pull, snag, loop, etc) are excluded and replaced with non-defective and properly matched material.

5. SHADE MARKING

a. All component parts of the basic material and linings shall be marked to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the coat. Sleeve linings, whether cut from ends or in the main lay, shall be shade marked.

b. The numbering shall, at all times, start from the same position for all parts, for example: If the ply, Number 1 is used for the top ply and the next ply below facing the top ply, shall be Number 1 for all parts.

TYPE

c. The use of sew on tickets and metal fastening devices for shade marking is permitted on the basic fabric, but they shall not be used on the rayon linings.

6. FUSING

a. Fuse the side front armhole interlining with the armhole edge set back 1/8 inch and 3/8 inch from the edge of the side body to front joining seam. Fuse the back vent top and bottom.

b. Fuse the small parts fusible interlining piece to the top and under sleeve, with the bottom edge of the fusible interlining 1/8-inch from the bottom edge of the sleeves, and center.

c. Fuse the small parts fusible to the top collar. Position the top collar interlining, and center it on the top collar with 3/16 inch from all edges, as indicated on the pattern.

d. Fuse the small parts fusible to the flaps and top welt aligned with the corresponding notches on the basic material.

e. Fuse the small parts fusible to the left and right facings with the top of the fusible interlining 1/8-inch from the top of the shell.

7. MAKE INTERLINING FROM FRONTS.

a. Spread the shoulder dart, and zigzag the wedge piece to the inside of the interlining at the shoulder dart with the edges overlapping.

b. The abutted or overlapped edges, waist darts, armhole darts, and lower waist darts at the back edges of the interlining, respectively shall be zigzag stitched together through the twill cloth stay pieces. The abutted or overlapped edges may be stitched together prior to the stitching through the twill cloth stay pieces.

c. Spread the shoulder dart on the chest piece of the interlining, and zigzag stitch the wedge piece to the shoulder dart, with the edges overlapping.

4-6

70/20

TYPE

d. The abutted or overlapped edges of the armhole dart on the chest piece shall be zigzag stitched together.

e. Position chest piece of canvas in front. With monoflex catch the horsehair or cloth piece in between.

f. Zigzag stitch on the front and bottom edges to the front interlining. Place an additional row of zigzag stitching vertically through the center of the chest piece.

g. Quilt the flannel or felt padding to the interlining, with rows of stitching 3/8 or 3/4 inch apart, with the flannel padding extending beyond the shoulder, the armhole, and the side of the interlining. The shoulder portion of the interlining shall be left open to accommodate the shoulder pad.

h. Zigzag stitch the back edge of the strip of the bias-cut twill cloth for reinforcing the buttonholes. The strip shall be 3 inches (plus or minus 1/4 inch) wide. The strip of twill cloth shall be positioned with the top edges even with the step and the front edge 1/4 inch from and parallel to, the front edge of the right front interlining. On the left front position, the front edge of the twill cloth strip even with the lapel edge at the step and aligned with the notch on the bottom of the interlining.

I. The front interlining shall be shirred 3/8 to 1/2 inch approximately 3/4 inch back of the waist dart, and 1 inch from the front edge. The shirring shall measure approximately 3 1/2 inches in length above and below the waistline (twill cloth on the front shall not be caught in the shirring).

8. MAKE SHOULDER BOARD LOOPS

a. Make shoulder board loops. A strip of polyester/wool shall be folded to the center with the edges overlapped and double stitched 3/16 to 1/4 inch gage with a covering stitch on the underside. Loops shall finish 3/8 inch wide.

Osa-1

EFH-1

4-6

4-6

4-9

12-14

70/2

70/2

70/2

70/2

A 70/2

A A

TYPE

b. Cut four loops 1-7/8 inch long for each coat.

c. Front end of loops shall be turned under prior to stitching onto coat. Back end of loops shall be caught in shoulder seam stitching.

d. First loops on each shoulder shall finish 1-3/8 inch long and be located 1 inch up from armhole seam at the outer edge see Figure 3 . Opening of first loops shall be 1-1/4 inch.

e. Second loops on each shoulder shall finish 1-1/8 inch long parallel with first loop and be 3-3/4 inch up from the first loop from outside edge to outside edge, see Figure 3. Opening of second loops shall be 1 inch.

f. NOTE: Measurement for placement of shoulder loops shall be taken along the shoulder seam.

9. MAKE BREAST POCKET

The finished flaps shall finish with the corners pointed and conforming to the shape of the master pattern. Seam the lining to the flaps, trim away excess material, turn and single stitch edges of flap with 3/16 inch gage.

10. MAKE TWO LOWER POCKETS

a. Seam the lining to the flaps, trim the corners, turn and single stitch 3/16 inch from the edge. The lining may be joined to the flap with cotton thread. The edge stitching shall be performed with silk thread.

b. When the lower flaps are cut from one piece of fabric, fold the flap in half, sew the ends with 1/4 inch seam, trim away excess material at corners, turn and stitch edges with 3/16 inch gage.

11. PRESS FLAPS

a. After the buttonholes have been made, the flaps shall be pressed flat and smooth.

b. The flaps shall be marked with appropriate marker before setting on coat, to insure proper dimension of the flap.

Sse-2

Sse-2

12-14

A silk or 00

A silk or 00

TYPE

12. MAKE BUTTONHOLES IN FLAPS

a. Make a cut first buttonhole 7/8 inch long through the center of each lower flap. The eyelet shall be 5/8 + 1/8 inch up from the bottom edge of the flap.

b. Make a cut first buttonhole 7/8 inch long through the center of each breast pocket flap. The eyelet shall be 5/8 + 1/8 inch up from the point of the flap. NOTE: The purling shall finish on the right side of the flaps.

c. The ends of the buttonhole thread and gimp shall be securely bartacked. Clip threads close to bartack.

d. The buttonholes shall not be cut open except the eyelet which shall be cut out. Bartacking shall be a separate operation from the buttonhole making.

e. The bartack may be done by hand, but shall not be more than 3/16 inch long.

13. MAKE TWO BREAST PATCH POCKETS CREASING MACHINE CONSTRUCTION

a. Form a 1-1/2 inch wide vertical box pleat to the outside in the center of the pocket by creasing machine. Stitch the pleat closed, across the top and the bottom, with the inside side edges abutted.

b. Blind stitch the abutted edges of the pleat

c. Place the twill cloth pieces to back of the patch pocket (underside). Seam around, at the side and the bottom, 1/8 to 3/16 inch from raw edge. The sides and the bottom edges shall be creased to conform to proper shape as shown by the pocket shapers.

d. Form a 1-1/2 inch wide, vertical box pleat to the outside in the center of the pocket and stitch.

e. Stitch across the top and the bottom of the pleat.

f. Baste the center of the pleat by machine, with a long stitch.

Buttonhole

Machine

Bartack

Hand or machine

101 or 301 or hand Ssa-1

Ssm-1

Ssa-1

Osf-1

Ssa-1 38-40 buttonhole not including bartack

21 per bartack

10-12 per bartack

4-8

4-8

12-14

12-14

A A

A skein

A A

A A

A A

A A

TYPE

g. Press the pleat (in the center of the pocket) flat and smooth with a heated pressing iron or machine.

h. Seam the twill cloth lining to the pocket around the side and the bottom edges.

i. Trim the bottom corners of the pockets.

j. Turn the pocket and baste the edges with the twill cloth lining slightly back from the pocket edges. In lieu of basting, a cardboard template the shape and size of the patch may be inserted between the twill cloth and basic material and pressed.

k. Put on a shaper and trim the top edges if necessary. Stitch across the top of the pocket.

l. Press the pockets smooth with a heated pressing iron or machine.

m. The top raw edge of the patch pocket shall be trimmed and the edge shall be serged. This may be done in one operation.

14. MAKE COLLAR

a. Join the undercollar pieces.

b. Join the undercollar interlining.

c. Open the undercollar seam and stitch one side of the seam allowance to the interlining, or press the undercollar seam open with a heated pressing iron or machine. If the undercollar and the interlining are cut in one piece, a, b and c will not be required.

d. Quilt the interlining to the undercollar with seven to eight rows of blind stitching.

e. Press, and mark undercollar with collar shaper, cut excess material - or the undercollar may be shaped with a die-shaper to conform to undercollar shaper.

f. Mark undercollar stand. The stand shall be 1 ¼ inches wide at the center of the collar, measured from the lower edge of the undercollar.

Ssa-1

Ssa-1

Ssa-1

Ssa-1 12-14

12-14 A A

A A

TYPE

g. Place a machine stitch on the undercollar stand mark. Place one row of stitching along the end and top edge of collar ½ inch away from the edge.

h. Mark the topcollar with a pattern shaper. The topcollar may be die cut as indicated by the shaper at the outer edge.

I. Position the upper edge of the topcollar between the upper edges of the undercollar and the interlining, matching notch and seam together.

j. Baste the ends, the upper edge of the collar, and at the crease lines.

k. Baste the topcollar to the undercollar along the crease line and the outer edge, matching notch.

l. Trim and turn the edges of the topcollar over the interlining, between the undercollar and the interlining and baste the edges.

m. Bell the top and the side edges of the topcollar to the undercollar by hand. As an option, the top edge only may be machine felled with simulated hand stitching; the corners and the sides shall be felled by hand. When simulated hand stitching is used for the top edge, the operation shall precede the collar basting.

n. Press and crease the stand of the topcollar together in one operation to shape, stretching the outer edge of the collar across the shoulders and holding the crease line short.

o. Trim the bottom edge of the topcollar to allow for seaming.

15. MAKE SLEEVES

a. Join the forearm seam of the sleeve, distributing fullness between the notches.

b. Press the forearm seam open and flat with a heated pressing iron, holding the folding line short.

301 or 304

101 or hand

101 or hand hand or machine

Ssa-1

Lsa-1

12-14

4 to 6

12-14 A A

TYPE

c. Stitch the interlining to the underarm seam and the sides of the back arm seam. The bottom edge of the cuff interlining shall be ½ to ¾ inch below the turn up notches.

d. Mark bottom line for sewing on the sleeve braid. The lower edge of braid shall be 3 1/16 inch above the turn up mark.

e. Sew on braid to sleeve on top and lower edges 1/16-inch gage. Lower edge stitching of braid shall catch the wigan piece. Wigan piece shall extend 3/4 inch below the turn up notch.

f. Press the braid and the turn up of sleeves.

g. Mark and baste the turn up of the bottom of the sleeve.

h. Press the bottom of the sleeves, and pull out the basting.

i. Join the back arm seam of the sleeves with a 3/8-inch seam allowance catching wigan and braid in the seam. The braid shall join evenly at the back arm seam in the finished sleeve.

j. Press back arm seam open and flat with a heated pressing iron, holding the seam short.

k. Blind stitch the turn up of the sleeve to the interlining.

l. Join the back arm seam and one forearm seam of the sleeve linings, respectively.

m. The sleeve linings shall extend not less than ¾ inch or more than 1 inch above the top of the sleeve. Tack the forearm seam and the back arm seam of the sleeve lining to the forearm seam and the back arm seam of the sleeve, respectively, distributing fullness of lining during the tacking operation. Extend tacking from not more than 5 inches below the top to not more than 5 inches above the creased bottom edge. When tacking is done by hand, both ends of the stitching shall be securely backstitched with not less than three stitches. NOTE: When 101 is used, 2 tacks on front seam; 3 tacks on the back seam.

101 or hand

103 or 301 or hand

301 101 or hand

Ssa-1

Ssa-1

Efc-1

SSa-1

6 to 14

12-14

4-6

1-2

4-6 ½ to 1

A A

A A

Nylon/50

A A

4 6

½ to 1

TYPE

n. Baste the turn up of the sleeve lining. It shall be not less than 2 inches. The sleeve lining may be felled to the bottom of the sleeve without basting.

o. Turn the sleeves and assemble in pairs.

16. MAKE LININGS.

a. Stitch the side body to the front of the linings.

b. Fold and stitch the dart as indicated by the marks on the pattern.

c. Stitch the forepart linings to the facings.

Form and stitch the pleat at the front of the armhole as indicated by the patterns or the pleat may be formed when basting the lining.

17. MAKE INSIDE BREAST POCKET

Mark the position as indicated by the pattern for a 3/16 inch to 1/4 inch double piped pocket on the right side through the lining, the facing, and the twill cloth stay. The twill cloth stay shall extend and shall be caught in the armhole. The opening of the finished pocket shall be not less than 5 1/2 inches. The depth of the finished pocket shall be not less than 6 1/2 inches.

a. The bottom raw edge of the rayon facing shall be turned in and seamed to the twill cloth pocket.

b. The top raw edge of the rayon facing shall be turned in and seamed in the twill cloth pocket. When either edge is selvage, it does not need to be turned in. Position the twill cloth pocket on the rayon lining and the wool polyester facing at the marks, with the twill cloth stay on the underside.

c. The silesia pocket shall be seamed to the lining and the facing throughout the twill cloth stay with two rows of stitching.

d. The opening of the pocket shall be cut. The ends of the opening shall be tongue notched. The opening of the pocket shall not extend into the facing more than 1 ½ inch or into the armholes.

Hand or Machine 101 hand or machine

SSa-1

OSf-1

SSa-1

Lsd-1

Lsd-1

SSv-2

12-14

12-14

12-14

A A

A A

A A

TYPE

e. Turn the pocket through the cut opening. Make the top and the bottom piping, and securely tack the corners. Turn the pocket into position and stitch around the sides and bottom of the twill cloth pocket. Stitch through the lining and the stay piece from the back end of the pocket opening to the armholes.

f. The pocket opening may be accomplished with a double piped pocket machine, which stitches, cuts, and turns piped edges in one operation. When this machine is used, the piping piece may be trimmed to permit insertion into the machine.

g. The joining seams of the piped edges shall be raise stitched. The bottom of the piped edges shall be raise stitched through the lining and the coat facing prior to closing the pocket. The top piped edge shall be raise stitched through all plies (not in piping) in closing the top of the pocket.

18. MAKE ARMHOLE SHIELDS

The armhole shield shall be a triangular, one piece, and rayon material sweat shield. The raw edges shall be sewn into the lining dart seam. Press the shield smooth and flat.

19. YOKE

The yoke shall be made of rayon material.

a. Hem the bottom edge of the yoke with the raw edges turned in to finish ½ inch. Fold the pleat in the center back of the yoke as indicated by the pattern notches and press.

b. Press the seam joining the front body lining to the facing and the side body to one side towards the side seam. Press the pockets smooth and press open the bottom of the joining facing seam.

20. MAKE BACKS

a. Bend the edges of the side seams of the backs, both edges of the center back, and the edge of the left vent with a ¾ inch to 7/8 inch, bias cut, rayon binding.

b. Join the center back seam with a ¾ -inch seam; continue stitching to ½ inch below the top of the vent. Continue stitching across the top of the vent.

Ssa-1

Efb-1

Bsb-1

SSa-1

12-16

12-16

12-14

12-14

12-14

12-14 A A

A A

A A

TYPE

c. Notch the center seam allowance at the top of the vent. Press the center seam open and flat. Press the left vent edge.

d. Join the rayon lining to the right vent, with the raw edges even, turn and stitch 1/8 inch from the edge and continue across the top of the vent lining.

e. Tack the top folded edge of the lining vertically through the back seam outlet only.

f. Tack the top of the vent through all plies of materials including the rayon lining. The outside tack shall be diagonal and shall be not less than 1 inch long.

g. Baste the yoke to the back.

h. Sew the hanger braid to the center of the back at the collar seam. The finished hanger braid shall measure 2 inches long, + ½ inch.

i. Turn back the yoke and sew ¼ inch tape on the backs of the armhole from the side seam to ¾ inch from the shoulder seam, holding the tape taut to draw up the material, evenly distributed 1/4 to 3/8 inch. Seam the cross cut tape across the neck of the back to within 1/2 inch of each shoulder part.

j. The tape may be sewn on before the yoke is basted.

k. Taping the armhole on the fronts and backs may be done in one operation.

21. MAKE FRONTS

a. Join front darts, starting from nothing approximately 1 inch above the dart to 3/8 inch at center of cart and taper to nothing approximately 1 inch below the end of the dart.

b. Join side body seam to front with 3/8-inch seam.

c. Sew ¼ -inch tape at forge, starting 1 inch in front of break line to ½ inch away from the shoulder seam.

Hand or machine hand machine 301 hopper

301 or 401

301 0r 401

Sse-2

Ssa-1

Ssa-1

Ssa-1

12-14

6-8

12-14

12-14

12-14

12-14

12-14

8-12 A A

A nylon A

A silk or 00

A A

A A

A A

TYPE

d. Sew a strip of bias cut twill cloth on shoulder starting 1 ½ inch away from the shoulder to 1 inch away from front notch.

e. Sew a strip of bias cut twill cloth to armhole starting 1 inch away from shoulder to 1 inch away from front notch.

f. Sew ¼ inch tape on armhole starting 2 inches above the notch and continue to end of the armhole at side seam. The tape shall be firm at front, smooth at side arm dart seam, and held taut at back part of armhole.

g. Press front dart and side body seam open holding the seam short and work dart toward back side seam.

h. Before marking for pocket placement, the fronts shall be placed on front chest pressing machines and firmly pressed, keeping the front straight and back short.

I. Mark the fronts for the placement of the breast pockets, breast pocket flaps and lower pocket flaps. Note: Care must be taken to insure that the breast pockets and flaps will not be too close to the front edges on the small size coats.

j. Place piece of pocket stay in place and sew breast pockets on fronts according to the marks. The pockets shall be sewn with 3/16 inch stitch using black silk thread.

k. Sew breast pocket flaps on the marks. The excess fabric shall be trimmed to insure that the raw edge of the flaps will not be exposed after the flaps have been folded and top stitched with 3/16 inch stitch. Note: Both ends of the flap shall cover the breast pocket and the ends of the flaps shall be stitched down catching the flaps, the pockets and the fronts.

l. Sew the lower pocket flaps on the fronts, fold the flap and top stitch. The top stitching shall continue down on the ends of the flaps for approximately 1 inch securely taking the ending of the stitching.

Lsd-1

Lsd-1

Lsq-2

Ssa-1

LSq-2 12-14

12-14

12-14

12-14

12-14 A A

Silk

A A

Silk

A A

Silk

A A silk 00

TYPE

m. Press fronts on breast pressing machine.

22. BASTING FRONTS TO INTERLINING

The interlining shall extend well beyond the armhole.

a. Baste the fronts to the interlining from below the shoulder, along the front dart seam to the bottom of the coat.

b. Tack the vertical front dart to the interlining. Securely tack the upper pocket stay to the interlining both front and back. When the upper pocket stay is tacked across the top, the middle row of interlining basting shall start at the top of the breast flap.

c. Baste across the shoulder, allowing room for setting the shoulder pads. Baste around the armholes and down the back edge of the interlining. Baste along the break line of the lapel and down the front edges.

d. Baste the bridle tape ¼ to 3/8 inch behind the break line of each lapel, holding the tape taut and holding in and properly distributing breast fullness. The bridle tape shall extend sufficiently above the gorge to permit catching the tape in the gorge seam tacking and to within 1 inch at the bottom. The tape shall be held taut enough to work in not less than ¼ inch or not more than 5/8-inch fullness. The tape and interlining shall be stamp marked to assure proper fullness. The tape shall be marked ¼ to 3/8 inch for sizes short and extra short. ½ inch for size regular, and 5/8 inch for sizes long and extra long.

e. The lapels of the coat shall be padded with six rows of blind stitching, with fullness on the interlining between the rows of stitching to roll lapels.

f. The bridle tape shall be blind stitched on the front and the back edges.

23. JOIN SIDE SEAMS

a. Join the side seams, with a ¾ -inch seam, placing a 3/16-inch fullness evenly distributed on the back, starting 1 inch from the top edge of the step for a distance of 5 to 6 inches.

301 or hopper

301 or hopper

301 or hand

103 or 301

103 or 301

Ssa-6

Ssm-6

4-6

12-14 Nylon

Nylon

TYPE

b. Press the side seam flat and open, holding the seam short and curved toward the front at the blade part of the seam. Press the tape at the armhole, holding the back short.

24. UNDER PRESS LAPELS AND FRONTS AND SHAPE LAPELS

a. After the lapels are padded, the left ad right fronts of the coats shall e pressed individually on a breast pressing machine to the shape of the body. The front edge of the forepart shall be straight from the top of the lower flap. The front darts shall curve toward the front edge of the center.

b. Position a lapel shaper from the point of the shoulder to the notch at the bottom of the stand and mark both notches. Mark and trim as shown on shaper.

c. Trim the right front and bottom of coat matching lengths.

Trim interlining at edges of the lapels, bottoms and front ¼-inch.

25. BASTE FACING

Place facing on top of fronts. Baste along the edges, and place required fullness at the corners of the lapels ad over the chest area. Hold the facing taut at the bottom edge of the front.

Hand or hopper

TYPE

26. TAPE AND STITCH EDGES

a. Seam the tape to the edge of the coat from the collar notch, across the top of the lapel, down the front and across the bottom to the back edge of the facing. The width of the seam allowance along the lapel and the front edges shall be 3/16 inch.

b. Fell the back edge of the tape to the coat on the fronts and the lapels, or the tape may be felled by hand.

c. Press the edges flat and smooth, and edge seam may be pressed open.

27. BIND BOTTOM EDGE OF COAT

Bind the bottom edge of the coat with ¾ inch to 7/8 inch binding. The binding shall extend from the vent to under the lining of the front.

28. PRESS, TRIM AND TURN EDGES

a. Press edges of front flat on pressing machines, and remove bastings. Press edges open.

b. Trim excess material from corners of lapels and bottom of fronts. Turn fronts.

c. Baste edges of fronts with chain stitch basting machine approximately ¼ inch in from edge. Work out the corners of the lapels. The edges of the lapels and the fronts shall be finished so that the edge seam will not be exposed when the coat is finished. Continue basting along the bottom turn up of the coat, making sure that the center vent will finish with the left vent slightly longer than the right vent. Fell the bottom turn up.

29. BASTE FACING ALONG FRONTS (SECOND BASTING)

a. Baste the facing 1-inch from the edge.

301 or hand

101 or hand

101 or hand

301 or hopper Ssa-1

Ssm-1

Bsb-1

EFc-1

12-14

3 to4

A A

Nylon

A A

Polyester

/nylon

TYPE

b. Place a row of basting diagonally from the break to the point of the lapel, placing proper fullness in the facing to permit the lapel to roll.

c. Baste the back edge of the facing, putting fullness over the chest.

30. SEW ON SHOULDER PADS.

Insert the shoulder pads between the interlining, the chest piece, and the felt or the flannel and securely baste to shoulder in proper position.

31. FACING TO INTERLINING

Tack the back edge of the right facing to the interlining with one row of blind stitching 2 ½ inches from the shoulder seam to 2 ½ inches above the inside pocket opening, and continue from the lower edge of the pocket to within 2 inches of the bottom of the coat. Tack the back edge of the left facing to the interlining not more than 2 ½ inches below the shoulder seam to within 2 inches of the bottom of the coat.

32. FIT AND BASTE LINING OF COAT

a. Tack the back u-upper edge of the inside pocket to the interlining.

b. Baste pleat at armhole. The pleat shall be 1 inch deep and approximately 8 inches long and shall be parallel with the edge of the facing, approximately 1 ½ inches away from the facing.

c. Baste across the shoulders, around the armhole, and down the side ½ inch off the side seam, and across the bottom.

d. Turn in the bottom and the back edge of the lining and baste to the coat. The basting shall allow room for felling of the side seams and the bottom

e. Trim the gorge and the lining of the armholes and the shoulders.

33. FELL LINING

Fell the bottom and the sides of the lining with a blind stitch.

301 or 103 hand

301 or hand

301 or hand

301 or hand

301 or hand

Ssm-1

Hopper

Hopper

Hopper

Hopper

EFc-1 3 to 4

4 to 6

4-6 Nylon

A A polyester

TYPE

33. FELL LINING (CONT)

a. The seam of the sleeve lining shall correspond with the seam of the sleeve during the armhole felling operation.

b. Fell the sleeve lining at the turn-up by hand, or the lining may be felled to the bottom of the sleeve by machine. Fell the lining of the shoulders.

c... Fell the lower back edge of the facings to the hem and the bottom corners of the lining at the joining of the lining to the facing. The bottom edge of the facing will not extend below the bottom edge of the coat.

34. JOIN SHOULDER SEAMS

Join the shoulder seams with a 3/8 inch seam, working in proper fullness on the backs. The fullness on the back shall be worked in manually without stretching the front at the shoulder.

35. PRESS SHOULDER SEAM

Open and press the shoulder seam, holding the shoulder short, with a heated hand iron or pressing machine over a suitable block.

36. BASTE SHOULDER

Position the shoulder, and baste the upper part of each shoulder on the outside. Turn under the edges of the back lining at the shoulders, and baste the upper part of each shoulder, continuing basting across the neck at the back.

37. SET ON COLLAR

a. Mark the outlet at the neck with a shaper.

b. Seam the topcollar to the front facings at the gorge to a point not less than 1 inch back of the lapel break line.

c. Tack the gorge seam open, catching the bridle tape in the tacking.

d. Baste the undercollar to the coat by hand, putting in proper fullness over the shoulder area.

e. Tack the outlet at the neck. Turn under and baste the lower edge of the topcollar at the neck.

Hand or machine

301 or hand hand

103 or hand Ssa-1

12-14

3 -4

A A

TYPE

f. Fell the undercollar to the coat and tack the corners.

g. Fell the lower edge of the topcollar from gorge seam to gorge seam by hand.

38. STITCH FRONT AND COLLAR EDGES

Stitch the edges of the coat and the collar 3/16 inch from the edge. The stitching shall extend across the bottom width of the facings.

39. PRESSING

a. Between the firs pressing operation and completion of pressing, place the coat on a hanger. Press the edges of the lapel fronts, collar, and bottom of coat on an edge-pressing machine. Press the right and left fronts on right and left chest machines, respective.

b. The front of the sleeve shall be rolled pressed. Press the balance of the front, the side sea, and the back of the coat (body machine). Press the collar on a collar machine, creasing on the break line and shaping to obtain the proper contour while pressing.

c. Press the armholes and the shoulder (shoulder machine). Crease the armhole solid on the inside of the armhole. (armhole machine) Block the armholes; the topsleeve shall be shrunk in.

d. Press the lapels. The creasing of the lapels shall extend a uniform distance from the gorge seam. The lapel shall be rolled pressed from Hand

Hand