GL-PD_14_05_ACU_Trouser.pdf

INCH-POUND

GL/PD 14-05

14 October 2014

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

TROUSER, ARMY COMBAT UNIFORM

This Purchase Description is approved for use by DLA Troop Support and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense (DoD).

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This Purchase Description specification covers the requirements for unisex and female combat trouser to be worn by the Army.

1.2 Classification. The trouser will be of the following types, styles, classes and sizes as specified.

1.2.1 Types. Type I - 50/50 Nylon/Cotton Ripstop

Type II - 65/25/10 Rayon/Para-Aramid/Nylon Ripstop Flame Resistant

Type III - Flame Resistant (FR) Cloth Ripstop

1.2.2 Styles. Style A - Unisex

Style B - Female

1.2.3 Classes. Class 1 - Untreated

Class 2 - Permethrin Treated

1.2.4 Sizes. The trouser sizes will be as follows:

STYLE A. UNISEX SCHEDULE OF SIZES

X-Small Small Medium Large X-Large XX-Large

X-Short X-Short X-Short X-Short X-Short X-Short

Short Short Short Short Short Short

Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular

Long Long Long Long Long Long

X-Long X-Long X-Long X-Long X-Long X-Long

XX-Long XX-Long XX-Long XX-Long XX-Long XX-Long

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: US Army Natick

Research, Development and Engineering Center, Attn: RDNS-SEW-EWC, 15 Kansas Street, Natick, MA 01760-5019.

FSC 8415

GL-PD 14-05

STYLE B. FEMALE SCHEDULE OF SIZES

25 28 31 35

X-Short X-Short X-Short ----

Short Short Short Short

Regular Regular Regular Regular

---- Long Long Long

---- ---- X-Long X-Long

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3, 4, or 5 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3, 4, or 5 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL SPECIFICATIONS

V-B-871 Button, Sewing, Hole and Button Staple (plastic)

FEDERAL STANDARDS

FED-STD-4 Glossary of Fabric Imperfections

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50198 Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole

A-A-50199 Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester Covered

A-A-55195 Thread, Para-Aramid, Spun, Intermediate Modulus

A-A-55217 Thread, Aramid, Spun, Staple

A-A-59826 Thread, Nylon

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-32075 Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use)

MIL-DTL-44411 Insect Repellent, Permethrin

MIL-DTL-44436 Cloth, Camouflage Pattern, Wind Resistant Poplin, Nylon/Cotton Blend

MIL-PRF-5038 Tape, Textile and Webbing, Textile, Reinforcing Nylon

MIL-W-5664 Webbing, Textile Elastic

(Copies of these documents are available online at or https://assist.dla.mil/ or from the

Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA

19111-5094.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other

Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those specified in the solicitation or contract.

ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AGENCY (EPA)

Federal Insecticide, Fungicide and Rodenticide Act (FIFRA)

(40 CFR Part 162) State Registration of Pesticide Products

Federal Insecticide, Fungicide and Rodenticide Act (FIFRA)

FIFRA as amended by the Food Quality Protection Act of 1996 and the

Pesticide Registration Improvement Act of 2003

EPA Product Performance Test Guidelines

OPPTS 810.370 Insect Repellents for Human Skin and Outdoor Premises

(Copies are available online at http://www.epa.gov/pesticides or from the Environmental

Protection Agency, 1200 Pennsylvania Avenue, N.W., Washington, DC 20460)

FEDERAL ACQUISITION REGULATIONS (FAR)

52.209-4 – First Article Approval – Government Testing

(Copies are available online at http://acquisition.gov/far/index.html or by contacting the

Superintendent of Documents at 202-512-1800.)

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

GL/PD 07-12 Cloth, Flame Resistant

GL/PD 10-08 Patch Kit, Integrated, Flame Resistant (IPK)

(Copies of this document are available through the contracting activity.)

https://assist.dla.mil/ http://www.epa.gov/pesticides http://acquisition.gov/far/index.html

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those specified in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Test Method 81 - pH of the Water-Extract from Wet Processed Textiles

AATCC Test Method 96 - Dimensional Changes in Commercial Laundering of Woven and

Knitted Fabrics Except Wool

AATCC Test Method 135 - Dimensional Changes of Fabrics After Home Laundering AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option A, Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles

(Copies are available on line at http://www.aatcc.org or from the American Association of Textile

Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes

(Copies are available on line at http://www.asq.org or from the American Society for Quality, 600

Plankinton Avenue, Milwaukee, WI 53203)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D 76 Standard Specification of Tensile Testing Machines for Textiles

ASTM D 737 Standard Test Methods for Air Permeability of Textile Fabrics

ASTM D 1424 Standard Test Methods for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling-

Pendulum Type (Elmendorf) Apparatus

ASTM D 1776 Standard Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles

ASTM D 3775 Standard Test Method for Warp End Count and Filling Pick Count of Woven Fabrics

ASTM D 3776 Standard Test Method for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric

ASTM D 5034 Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile

Fabrics (Grab Test)

ASTM D 6193 Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

ASTM D 6413 Standard Test Method for Flame Resistance of Textiles (Vertical Test)

(Copies are available online at http://www.astm.org or from the ASTM INTERNATIONAL, 100

Barr Harbor Drive, P.O. Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19426-2959.)

http://www.aatcc.org/ http://www.asq.org/ http://www.astm.org/

PARACHUTE INDUSTRY ASSOCIATION (PIA)

PIA-TEST METHOD-4108 Strength and Elongation Breaking; Textile Webbing, Tape and braided material

(Copies of documents are available online at http://www.pia.com or the Parachute Industry

Association, 3833 West Oakton St., Skokie, IL 60076.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

Repeat Insult Patch Test – Modified Draize Procedure

Principles and Methods of Toxicology, (fourth edition) A Wallace Hayes (editor), pp 1057 -

1060, 2001

(Copies are available online at http://www.taylorandfrancis.co.uk/ or from Taylor and Francis, 325 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia PA 19106.)

Sears Fabric Defect Replica Scales

(Copies are available from Sears Roebuck and Co. “Fabric Defect Replica Kit” at SHGS Hong

Kong Textile Testing Laboratory, 49/F, Office Tower, Langham Place, 8 Argyle Street, Mongkok, Kowloon, Hong Kong.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Recycled, recovered or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Materials.

3.3.1 Basic material (Type I only). The basic material for the Type I trouser shall be a 50/50 nylon/cotton blend, wind resistant poplin ripstop cloth in a Universal Camouflage Pattern (UCP) conforming to Class 8, or Operational Enduring Freedom Camouflage Pattern (OEF-CP) conforming to Class 11, or Operational Camouflage Pattern (OCP) conforming to Class 14, of

MIL-DTL-44436 as specified (see 6.2).

http://www.pia.com/

3.3.1.1 Basic material (Type II only). The basic material for the Type II trousers shall be a

65/25/10 Flame Resistant (FR) rayon/para-aramid/nylon blend cloth conforming to GL/PD 07-12

Type I, Class 1 in UCP, or Class 2 in OEF-CP or Class 3 in OCP as specified (see 6.2).

3.3.1.2 Basic material (Type III only). The basic material for the Type III trouser shall be an

FR ripstop cloth conforming to GL/PD 07-12 in Type III, Class 1 in UCP, or Class 2 in OEF-CP, or Class 3 in OCP, as specified (see 6.2).

3.3.2 Cloth, side and hip hanging pockets, and waistband lining (all types, styles and classes).

The cloth for waistband lining, side and hip pockets, shall be basic printed material or basic printed material seconds. Seconds shall be basic material which has been rejected only for defects pertaining to shade, infrared reflectance, or camouflage printed pattern as outlined in the appropriate material specification. For Type III trousers, seconds of the Type II trouser basic material (GL-PD-07-12, Type I) may be used.

3.3.2.1. Alternate cloth, side and hip hanging pockets (all types, styles and classes). As an alternate for the Type I trouser only, a 5.0 oz/sq. yd. minimum, plain weave, 75 percent (%) polyester 25 percent (%) cotton material or equal may be used for side and hip hanging pockets only. The color for the alternate material shall be Desert Sand 503, Urban Gray 505 or Foliage

Green 504 for UCP uniforms and Tan 499 for OEF-CP, and OCP uniforms. All other alternate materials shall meet the requirements outlined in Table I.

TABLE I. Alternate side and hip hanging pockets material (all types, styles and classes).

Characteristic Requirement

Type I Types II & III

Weight, oz./sq.yd.

minimum maximum

6.0

7.0

5.5

8.5

Breaking strength, pounds (minimum)

Warp

Filling

Tearing strength, pounds , Dry (minimum)

Warp

Filling

7.0

5.0

4.0

Dimensional Stability, percent

(After 5 laundering cycles)(maximum)

Warp and Filling:

Individual Sample

Lot Average

3.5

3.0

TABLE I. Alternate side and hip hanging pockets material (Types I, II and III) - Continued

Characteristic Requirement

Type I Types II & III

Laundering (4 Cycles) 1/

All colors(minimum)

Crocking (wet and dry) 2/

All colors (minimum)

Perspiration (acid & alkaline)1/

All colors (minimum)

3-4

3-4

Flame Resistance:

Initial -

After Flame, seconds (maximum)

After Glow, seconds (maximum)

Char Length, inches (maximum)

N/A

2.0

25.0

4.5

Flame Resistance:

After 25 launderings -

After Flame, seconds (maximum)

After Glow, seconds (maximum)

Char Length, inches (maximum)

N/A

2.0

25.0

4.5

1/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change and

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining.

2/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic

Transference Scale

3.4 Insect bite protection (Class 2 only). The Class 2 trouser shall be treated for insect bite protection. The trouser shall be strictly limited to the level specified in 3.4.1 and provide the minimum insect bite protection specified in 3.4.2.

3.4.1 Permethrin - Insect repellent treatment (Class 2 only). Permethrin treatment process and garments will comply with Federal Insecticide, Fungicide and Rodenticide Act (FIFRA) as amended (see 2.2.2). Permethrin concentration in Class 2 trousers shall comply with EPA

Toxological Category IV. The Class 2 trouser shall have an EPA registered (see 6.4) permethrin insect protection treatment which shall use permethrin in accordance with Type II specified in

MIL-DTL-44411 except that the application for Type II specified in MIL-DTL-44411 (Labels and labeling) shall also be applicable to finished garment. The trouser shall be labeled in accordance with 3.8.2.1 and 3.8.2.2. The permethrin finish shall be uniformly applied across the fabric or garment and strictly controlled to ensure that the permethrin concentration level meets the requirements specified below. The treatment level shall provide the percent (%) bite protection specified in 3.4.2. The permethrin treatment shall be durable to repeated laundering. The permethrin level testing shall be as specified in 4.4.3. The permethrin treatment shall not degrade any performance characteristics of the garment or present any latent defects to the cloth or garment. (See 6.5).

Type I, Class 2 Type II, Class 2 Type III, Class 2 mg/cm mg/cm mg/cm

Min Max Min Max Min Max

Initial 0.095 0.135 0.087 0.130 0.095 0.140

After 20 Launderings 0.025 0.135 0.025 0.130 0.025 0.140

3.4.1.1 Permethrin garment treatment of camouflage patterns. The mixing of camouflage patterns in the same permethrin treatment garment application is not allowed. Patterns shall be treated separately.

3.4.1.2 Permethrin garment application, finished measurements. Manufacturers shall comply with the finished measurement requirements in 3.12 and compensate for actual fabric shrinkage or growth after the application of garment treament.

3.4.2 Percent (%) insect bite protection (Class 2 only). The Class 2 finished permethrin treated garments shall provide bite protection specified below when assessed by the bite protection testing specified in 4.4.3. Government notification and approval is required initially, and any time there is a change in the permethrin treatment formulation or processing conditions (see 3.13.1).

Type I, Class 2 Type II, Class 2 Type III, Class 2

Condition % Bite Protection % Bite Protection % Bite Protection

Initial >/= 90% >/= 85% >/= 85%

After 20 launderings >/= 90% >/= 80% >/= 80%

After 50 launderings >/= 90% >/= 70% >/= 80%

3.4.3 pH (Class 2). The pH value of the water extract of all the finished cloth and garments shall be no lower than 5.0 or higher than 8.5 when tested as specified in 4.4.3.

3.5 Components materials and shade (all types, styles and classes). The component materials for trousers shall be made in accordance to paragraphs 3.5.1-3.5.5. Component materials for the trouser are for all types, classes and styles unless otherwise noted. All component shade shall be

Foliage Green 504 for UCP uniforms, and Tan 499 for OEF-CP or OCP uniforms with the exception of 3.5.5, Integrated Patch Kit (IPK). IPK shade shall be the camouflage print of the uniform.

3.5.1 Tape.

3.5.1.1 Hem tape (drawstring). The tape for the leg bottom hem shall conform to MIL-PRF-

5038, Type III, 3/8-inch wide. The drawstring tape for the leg bottom hem shall be cut 32 (± 1) inches in length for all sizes. The tape ends shall be heat cut to prevent raveling and the ends of the bottom hem drawstring tape shall be finished with knotted ends.

3.5.1.2 Tape, FR identification marker (Types II and III only, all styles and classes). The tape for the FR identification marker shall be 1-inch wide conforming to Type III of MIL-PRF-5038.

The tape ends shall be heat cut to prevent raveling.

3.5.2 Elastic webbing (Style B). The elastic webbing for the female trouser waistband shall be

1-1/2-inch wide and conform to, or have performance characteristics equal to or better than, Type

II, Class 1 of MIL-W-5664. The elastic for the waistband shall be cut to the length needed to achieve both the trouser 1/2 waist finished relaxed and finished stretched measurements (for each size) as specified in 3.12.1 and Table VIIIB (see 3.7.2) and the elongation force specified below.

Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.

Elongation (inches) Force (lbs.)

(+/- 1/16) Minimum Maximum

Waistband 1-1/2 1.5 4.0

3.5.3 Thread (Type I only, all styles and classes). The thread for all seaming and stitching for the Type I trouser shall conform to Table II. All thread shall be non-staining and the requirements in each Commercial Item Description (CID) shall apply.

TABLE II. Thread requirements, Type I trouser only

Component area

Thread specification

Needle thread 1/

(Tex size)

Bobbin/

Looper thread 1/

(Tex size)

All seaming, stitching and bartacking A-A-50199, Type II 36-45 or

46-60

36-45

46-60

Button attachment A-A-50199, Type II 71-105 71-105

Seat patch A-A-50199, Type II 46-60 46-60

Overedge stitching (raw edges) A-A-50199, Type II 31-35 31-35

Crotch A-A-59826, Type I 45-46 45-46

1/ Needle & Bobbin/Looper shall use same Tex size thread.

3.5.3.1 Thread (Types II and III only, all styles and classes). The thread for all seaming and stitching shall be as specified in Table III. All thread shall be non-staining and the requirements in each respective Commercial Item Description (CID) shall apply.

TABLE III. Thread requirements, Types II and III trouser only

Component area

Thread specification

Needle thread 1/

(Tex size)

Bobbin/

Looper thread 1/

(Tex size)

All seaming except small parts A-A-55195, Type I

A-A-55195, Type II

A-A-55217, Type I

70-80

70-80

Bartacks, small parts, pockets, flaps, top stitching, tabs, hems and eyelets, identification marker and labels

A-A-55195, Type I

A-A-55195, Type II

A-A-55217, Type I

50-60

50-60

Overedge/Serge for raw edge cover A-A-55195, Type I

A-A-55195, Type II

A-A-55217, Type I

24-27

24-27

Crotch seam and seat patch A-A-55195, Type I

A-A-55195, Type II

A-A-55217, Type I

70-80

70-80

Button attachment A-A-55195, Type I

A-A-55195, Type II

A-A-55217, Type I

50-60

50-60

1/ Needle & Bobbin/Looper shall use same Tex size thread.

3.5.3.2 Gimp. The cotton gimp for reinforcing buttonholes shall conform to A-A-50198, soft or glazed finish, Tex Size 180 or 210.

3.5.4 Buttons. Buttons shall be dull finish, four (4) holes, 30 ligne conforming to V-B-871, Type II, Class D, Style 26. When attached to the trouser, the button and thread shall withstand 40 pounds (minimum) when tested as specified in 4.4.3.

3.5.5 Integrated Patch Kit (IPK) (Types II and III only, all styles and classes). The IPK shall conform to the requirements of GL/PD 10-08. UCP uniforms shall use Class 1, Size R, OEF-CP uniforms shall use Class 2, Size R, and OCP uniforms shall use Class 3, Size R.

3.6 Design. The trouser design for Style A-Unisex shall have a waistband with clean finished ends and button/buttonhole closure (see 3.7.1). Style B female trouser shall have two (2) elasticized portions and button/buttonhole closure (see 3.7.2). Both style trousers shall have seven

(7) belt loops along with a covered fly with three (3) buttons and buttonhole closure (see 3.7.4).

Both style trousers shall have two (2) side hanging pockets, two (2) back single welt hip pockets with two (2) button closure flaps, two (2) front side pleated cargo pockets with three (3) buttons/two (2) buttonholes closure flaps and two (2) lower leg pockets with one (1) button/buttonhole closure flaps. Both styles shall have side cargo pockets and lower leg pockets that have sewn-in eyelets at the bottom of each of the bellows. Both styles shall have a double needle seat patch and shall have knee reinforcement patches. Each style shall have a drawstring at each leg bottom.

3.7 Construction (all types, styles and classes). The construction for trousers shall be made in accordance to paragraphs 3.7.1 - 3.7.12. Construction is for all Types, Styles and Classes unless otherwise noted. All material edges shall be clean finished, either, turned-in turned-under or serged, unless otherwise indicated. All components with a grain line shall follow the grain line of the basic garment material or as indicated on pattern.

3.7.1 Unisex waistband (Style A only, all types and classes). The finished waistband shall measure 1-3/4 (± 1/8) inches wide with clean finished ends and a button/buttonhole closure. The width of the waistband shall be consistent so that the right and left sides match each other in width at the front within 3/16-inch. The waistband shall also have a button and horizontal buttonhole closure that shall align vertically with the fly button and buttonhole closure (see figure 6).

3.7.2 Stretch waistband (Style B only, all types and classes). The finished waistband shall measure 1-3/4 (± 1/8) inches wide with clean finished ends and a button/buttonhole closure that shall align vertically with the fly button/buttonhole closure (see figure 6). The width of the waistband shall be consistent so that the right and left sides match each other in width at the front within 3/16-inch. The waistband shall have an elasticized portion at each side of the waist that starts at the front of the pocket bearer and extends past the outseam and belt loop into the back of the trousers to achieve the finished waist stretch circumference for each size. For sizes 25 and 28, the elastics shall be approximately 7-inches long and be bartacked approximately 1/2-inch from each end. For sizes 31 and 35 the elastics shall be approximately 8 inches long and be bartacked approximately 1/2-inch from each end. The waistband elastic shall be stitched and bartacked as outlined in Tables VI and VII.

3.7.3 Belt loops. The trouser shall have seven (7) belt loops measuring 5/8 (± 1/16) inch in width and finish 2-1/8 (± 1/8) inches between bartacks in the length. The belt loop placement shall be as follows: one (1) loop on each side seam, one (1) on back seam, and one (1) on each front centered between side seam and waistband end, and one (1) on each back side centered between side seam and back seam. Belt loops may be positioned immediately adjacent to felled seams to reduce bulk in sewing. When positioning belt loops adjacent to side seam, the belt loop shall be placed toward the front.

3.7.4 Fly. The fly shall be a covered fly with three (3) buttons and buttonhole closure. The buttonholes shall be horizontal and placed as indicated on the pattern. The fly shall have “J” stitching 2 (± 1/8) inches from fly edge. The top fly shall be edge stitched 1/16 to 1/8-inch (see figure 6).

3.7.5 Seat patch. The trouser shall have a double-needle seat patch (see pattern for placement)

(see figure 2).

3.7.6 Knee reinforcement. The trouser shall have a knee reinforcement patch on each leg, stitched down around all four (4) sides. See pattern for placement.

3.7.7 Pockets and flaps.

3.7.7.1 Front side pockets. The trouser shall have two (2) front side hanging pockets with pocket openings measuring 6-3/4 (± 1/2) inches between bartacks. Pocket openings shall match each other within 1/4-inch. Any raw edge shall be overedge stitched.

3.7.7.2 Hip pockets. The trouser shall have back left and right single welt hip pockets with a two (2) button/buttonhole closure per pocket. The finished welt shall measure 1/4 (± 1/16) inch.

The buttons shall be sewn onto the outside of the pocket and the buttonholes shall be vertical and sewn into the underside of the flap as indicated on patterns (see figure 4).

3.7.7.3 Cargo pockets and flaps. The trouser shall have two (2) pleated bellows cargo pockets with flaps (see pattern for placement). The pockets shall have a sewn-in eyelet at the bottom side edge of bellow, as indicated on the pattern (see 3.7.10). The top of the folded finished pocket flaps shall finish 3/4-inch from the folded edge of pocket top (see pattern for placement). The pleated bellows shall be edge stitched to secure pleat stability. The cargo pockets and flaps shall close with a three (3) button (2) buttonhole closure per pocket. The buttons shall be sewn onto the outside of the pocket and the buttonholes shall be vertical and sewn onto the underside of the flap as indicated on patterns (see figure 3).

3.7.7.4 Lower leg pockets and flaps. The trouser shall have two (2) lower leg bellows pockets with flaps (see pattern for placement). The pockets shall have a sewn-in eyelet at the bottom of the bellow, as indicated on pattern (see 3.7.10). The top of the folded finished pocket flaps shall finish 1/2-inch from the folded edge of pocket top (see pattern for placement). The pockets shall close with one (1) button sewn onto the outside of the pocket as indicated on the pattern. The buttonhole shall be vertical and sewn into the underside of the flap as indicated on the pattern. See pattern for button and buttonhole placement.

3.7.8 Leg bottom hem and drawstring. The leg bottoms shall be hemmed and shall have a drawstring inserted through two (2) sewn-in eyelets or two (2) 1/2-inch horizontal straight cut buttonholes with reinforcement piece as indicated on patterns (see 3.7.9 and 3.11.1). The drawstring tape (see 3.5.1.1) shall overlap (cross) between holes when threaded through the hem casing. The drawstring shall be heat sealed and knotted at each end before packaging. The finished hem shall measure 7/8 (±1/8) inch wide.

3.7.9 Buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be eyelet-end tapered bar type worked over gimp for the fly, back hip welt pocket flaps, cargo pocket flaps, lower leg pocket flaps with not less than four (4) tacking stitches at bar end catching the gimp ends (not counting the crossover stitch). The purling shall be on the outside surface. The cut lengths shall be 3/4-inch to 7/8-inch. The buttonholes shall be clean cut with the stitching securely caught in fabric. When buttonholes are used in lieu of sewn-in eyelets for the waistband and leg bottom hem drawstrings they shall be

1/2-inch vertical straight cut for the waistband and 1/2-inch horizontal straight cut for the leg bottom hem.

3.7.10 Eyelets. The sewn-in eyelets for the cargo pocket and lower leg pocket bellows shall have a 1/4 (± 1/16) inch diameter finished opening. When sewn-in eyelets are used for the waistband and leg bottom they shall measure 3/8 (± 1/8) inch in diameter. See pattern for placement.

3.7.11 Identification FR marker (Types II and III only, all styles and classes). The Types II and III trouser shall have a tape marker as specified in 3.5.1.2 centered (vertically and horizontally) on the left cargo pocket flap as worn and shall be visible from the outside when worn

(see pattern for placement). The tape marker shall be clean finished or heat sealed and finish 1 (±

1/8) inch in length. The finished tape identification marker shall be box stitched as specified in

Table V. The thread shall be in accordance with the requirements for the Types II and III trouser

(see 3.5.3.1). (See Figures 1 and 2).

3.7.12 Integrated Patch Kit (IPK) placement (Types II and III only, all styles and classes).

The Types II and III trouser shall have an IPK placed into the finished left hip pocket, as worn.

The IPK shall be placed into the pocket after permethrin treatment with the shortest dimension vertical and shall lie flat after placement in pocket. The pocket shall be secured with at least one

(1) button to prevent IPK from falling out.

3.8 Labels (all types, styles and classes). Labels are for all types, styles and classes unless otherwise noted. All garments shall have a size label and a combination identification/care label sewn into the trouser. All garments shall have a Barcode hang tag. Class 2 trousers shall have an additional insect protection/identification/care label sewn into the trouser and a hang tag. The printing for all labels shall be black. The font size for the inscription of the size label shall be 10 points. The inscription shall have a minimum font size of 8 points for identification/care label and insect protection/identification/care label only. Inscription shall be legible. Sewn in labels and printing shall last the expected life of the trouser.

3.8.1 Size label. The size label shall conform to Type VI, Class 2 of MIL-DTL-32075 and shall be sewn and caught in the bottom of the inside waistband seam. The label shall be sewn on all four (4) sides and the stitching shall not cover the printing. The color of the size labels for the

Types I and II trousers shall be white or approximate the ground shade of the basic fabric. For the

Type III trouser only, the color of the size label shall be Urban Gray 501. The size label shall include the information in Table IVA and Table IVB for the applicable size:

This section is intentionally blank

TABLE IVA. Style A. Unisex size label.

X-Small – X-Short

Inseam: Up to 26-1/2 in.

Waist: Up to 27 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6067/5869

X-Small – Short

Inseam: 26-1/2 to 29-1/2 in.

Waist: Up to 27 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6775/5869

X-Small – Regular

Inseam: 29-1/2 to 32-1/2 in.

Waist: Up to 27 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 7583/5869

X-Small – Long

Inseam: 32-1/2 to 35-1/2 in.

Waist: Up to 27 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 8390/5869

X-Small – X-Long

Inseam: 35-1/2 to 38-1/2 in.

Waist: Up to 27 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9098/5869

X-Small – XX-Long

Inseam: Over 38-1/2 in.

Waist: Up to 27 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9805/5869

Small – X-Short

Inseam: Up to 26-1/2 in.

Waist: 27 to 31 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6067/6979

Small – Short

Inseam: 26-1/2 to 29-1/2 in.

Waist: 27 to 31 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6775/6979

Small – Regular

Inseam: 29-1/2 to 32-1/2 in.

Waist: 27 to 31 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 7583/6979

Small – Long

Inseam: 32-1/2 to 35-1/2 in.

Waist: 27 to 31 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 8390/6979

Small – X-Long

Inseam: 35-1/2 to 38-1/2 in.

Waist: 27 to 31 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9098/6979

Small – XX-Long

Inseam: Over 38-1/2 in.

Waist: 27 to 31 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9805/6979

Medium – X-Short

Inseam: Up to 26-1/2 in.

Waist: 31 to 35 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6067/7989

Medium – Short

Inseam: 26-1/2 to 29-1/2 in.

Waist: 31 to 35 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6775/7989

Medium – Regular

Inseam: 29-1/2 to 32-1/2 in.

Waist: 31 to 35 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 7583/7989

Medium – Long

Inseam: 32-1/2 to 35-1/2 in.

Waist: 31 to 35 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:8390/7989

Medium - X-Long

Inseam: 35-1/2 to 38-1/2 in.

Waist: 31 to 35 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9098/7989

Medium - XX-Long

Inseam: Over 38-1/2 in.

Waist: 31 to 35 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9805/7989

Large - X-Short

Inseam: Up to 26-1/2 in.

Waist: 35 to 39 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6067/8999

Large – Short

Inseam: 26-1/2 to 29-1/2 in.

Waist: 35 to 39 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6775/8999

Large - Regular

Inseam: 29-1/2 to 32-1/2 in.

Waist: 35 to 39 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 7583/8999

Large – Long

Inseam: 32-1/2 to 35-1/2 in.

Waist: 35 to 39 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 8390/8999

Large - X-Long

Inseam: 35-1/2 to 38-1/2 in.

Waist: 35 to 39 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9098/8999

Large - XX-Long

Inseam: Over 38-1/2 in.

Waist: 35 to 39 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9805/8999

TABLE IVA. Style A. Unisex size label – Continued

X-Large - X-Short

Inseam: Up to 26-1/2 in.

Waist: 39 to 43 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6067/9909

X-Large - Short

Inseam: 26-1/2 to 29-1/2 in.

Waist: 39 to 43 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6775/9909

X-Large - Regular

Inseam: 29-1/2 to 32-1/2 in.

Waist: 39 to 43 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 7583/9909

X-Large - Long

Inseam: 32-1/2 to 35-1/2 in.

Waist: 39 to 43 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 8390/9909

X-Large - X-Long

Inseam: 35-1/2 to 38-1/2 in.

Waist: 39 to 43 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9098/9909

X-Large - XX-Long

Inseam: Over 38-1/2 in.

Waist: 39 to 43 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9805/9909

XX-Large - X-Short

Inseam: Up to 26-1/2 in.

Waist: 43 to 47 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6067/0919

XX-Large – Short

Inseam: 26-1/2 to 29-1/2 in.

Waist: 43 to 47 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6775/0919

XX-Large - Regular

Inseam: 29-1/2 to 32-1/2 in.

Waist: 43 to 47 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 7583/0919

XX-Large – Long

Inseam: 32-1/2 to 35-1/2 in.

Waist: 43 to 47 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 8390/0919

XX-Large - X- Long

Inseam: 35-1/2 to 38-1/2 in.

Waist: 43 to 47 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9098/0919

XX-Large - XX-Long

Inseam: Over 38-1/2 in.

Waist: 43 to 47 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9805/0919

TABLE IVB. Style B. Female size label.

25 – X Short

Waist: 25 to 28 in.

Inseam: 24 to 26 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:

6067/5869

28 – X Short

Waist: 28 to 31 in.

Inseam: 24 to 26 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:

6067/6979

31 – X Short

Waist: 31 to 35 in.

Inseam: 24 to 26 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:

6067/7989

35 – X Short

Waist: 35 to 39 in.

Inseam: 24 to 26 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:

6067/8999

25 – Short

Waist: 25 to 28 in.

Inseam: 26 to 28 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:

6775/5869

28 – Short

Waist: 28 to 31 in.

Inseam: 26 to 28 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:

6775/6979

31 – Short

Waist: 31to 35 in.

Inseam: 26 to 28 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:

6775/7989

35 – Short

Waist: 35 to 39 in.

Inseam: 26 to 28 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:

6775/8999

25 – Regular

Waist: 25 to 28 in.

Inseam: 28 to 30 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:

7583/5869

28 – Regular

Waist: 28 to 31 in.

Inseam: 28 to 30 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:

7583/6979

31 – Regular

Waist: 31 to 35 in.

Inseam: 28 to 30 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:

7583/7989

35 – Regular

Waist: 35 to 39 in.

Inseam: 28 to 30 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:

7583/8999

TABLE IVB. Style B. Female size label. - Continued

28 – Long

Waist: 28 to 31 in.

Inseam: 30 to 32 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:

7583/6979

31 – Long

Waist: 31 to 35 in.

Inseam: 30 to 32 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:

7583/7989

35 – Long

Waist: 35 to 39 in.

Inseam: 30 to 32 in.

NSN No.

7583/8999

31 – X Long

Waist: 31 to 35 in.

Inseam: 32 to 34 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:

8390/7989

35 – X Long

Waist: 35 to 39 in.

Inseam: 32 to 34 in.

NSN No.

8390/8999

3.8.2 Identification and care label (all types, styles and classes). The combination identification/care label shall conform to Type VI, Class 15 of MIL-DTL-32075 and shall be placed on the inside of the right hip pocket (as worn), so that on the finished trouser the label shall face the wearer. The label shall be stitched on all four (4) sides. The stitching shall not cover the printing and shall not be visible on trouser front. The color of the combination identification and care label shall be white or approximate the ground shade of the basic fabric.

3.8.2.1 Identification and care label, (Type I only, all styles and classes). The Type I label shall include the following information:

This section is intentionally blank

Trouser, Army Combat Uniform - Unisex or

Trouser, Army Combat Uniform – Female

Contract Number:

Fiber Content:

Contractor Name:

Lot Number 1/

This product meets the manufacturing and performance testing requirements as authorized by the Program

Executive Office – Soldier

USE AND CARE

PRIOR TO LAUNDERING: Empty pockets. Turn inside out. Pre-treat stains with commercially available pre-treatments.

HOME LAUNDERING: Use cold water detergent. Wash in cold water using permanent press cycle. Rinse in cold water. Tumble dry low.

WASHING BY HAND: Use cold water detergent. Wash in cold water. Rinse completely. Never twist or wring dry. Hang dry on a rust-proof hanger. Do not hang dry in direct sunlight.

NOTE: Wash garment separate from other garments. In military field operations, garment may be washed with other garments.

CAUTION:

DO NOT USE BLEACH, BLEACH ALTERNATIVES, FABRIC SOFTENER, OR

STARCH. DO NOT DRY CLEAN OR COMMERCIALLY HOT PRESS.

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

1/ Lot number shall be stamped with indelible black ink prior to shipment.

3.8.2.2 Identification and care label, flame resistant (Type II and III only, all styles and classes). The label for Type II and Type III shall include the following information:

1/ Lot number shall be stamped with indelible black ink prior to shipment.

3.8.3 Insect protection/identification/care label (Class 2 only, all types and styles). The combination insect protection/identification/care label shall conform to Type VI, Class 15 of MIL-

DTL-32075 and shall be placed in the inside of the left hip pocket as worn, so that on the finished trouser the label shall face the wearer. The label shall include both permanent insect protection and brand labeling information; and shall comply with the approved EPA registration (see 6.4).

The label shall be stitched on all four (4) sides. The stitching shall not cover the printing and shall not be visible on trouser front. The color for the insect protection/identification/care label (Class

2) shall be white or approximate the ground shade of the basic fabric. The Class 2 label shall include the following information:

Trouser, Army Combat Uniform - Unisex or

Trouser, Army Combat Uniform – Female

FLAME RESISTANT

Contract Number:

Fiber Content:

Contractor Name:

Lot Number 1/

This product meets the manufacturing and performance testing requirements as authorized by the Program

Executive Office – Soldier

USE AND CARE

PRIOR TO LAUNDERING: Empty pockets. Turn inside out. Pre-treat stains with commercially available pre-treatments.

HOME LAUNDERING: Use cold water detergent. Wash in cold water using permanent press cycle. Rinse in cold water. Tumble dry low.

WASHING BY HAND: Use cold water detergent. Wash in cold water. Rinse completely. Never twist or wring dry. Hang dry on a rust-proof hanger. Do not hang dry in direct sunlight.

NOTE: Wash garment separate from other garments. In military field operations, CAUTION:

DO NOT USE BLEACH, BLEACH ALTERNATIVES, FABRIC SOFTENER, OR

STARCH. DO NOT DRY CLEAN OR COMMERCIALLY HOT PRESS.

THIS GARMENT IS FLAME RESISTANT

Insect Repellent Brand Name:

INSECT REPELLENT APPAREL

Refer to hangtag for more information

Contractor Name: (Permethrin Applicator Name)

(Brand Name) INSECT REPELLENT APPAREL

EPA REG. NO.:

EPA EST. NO.:

- Do Not Dry Clean

- Dry Cleaning removes active ingredient

- Wash separate from other clothing

- Do Not Re-treat with other permethrin products

- Wash garment separate from other garments. In military field operations,

- Dispose of garment in trash

Repels mosquitoes

Repellency remains effective for 25 washings

ACTIVE INGREDIENT %W/W

Permethrin……………..…………………...0.52%

OTHER INGREDIENTS: (Garment)…….99.48%

TOTAL……………………………….…100.00%

It is a violation of Federal Law to use this product

In a manner inconsistent with its labeling

3.8.4 Hang tag, insect protection (Class 2 only, all types and styles). Each Class 2 trouser shall have an individual paper tag attached to the garment conforming to Type VIII, Class 15 of

MIL-DTL-32075. The color for the hang tag shall be white. The paper tag shall be Swift tacked in the side seam approximately 2-inches below the belt loop. The tag shall provide additional insect protection information in accordance with and as required by EPA registration and labeling.

The hang tag shall contain the following information:

Insect Repellent Brand Name:

INSECT REPELLENT APPAREL

Contractor Name: - (Permethrin Applicator Name)

Contractor Address – (Permethrin Applicator Address)

(Product Brand Name) INSECT REPELLENT APPAREL

EPA REG. NO.:

EPA EST. NO.:

* Do Not Dry Clean

Dry Cleaning removes active ingredient

* Wash separate from other clothing

* Wash garment separate from other garments. In military field operations, garment may be washed with other garments.

* Do Not Re-treat with other permethrin products

* Dispose of garment in trash. Do not contaminate water, food or feed by storage or disposal. Do not reuse clothing/ fabric for purposes other than originally intended.

* For protection of exposed skin, use in conjunction with an insecticide registered for direct application to the skin.

Repels mosquitoes

Repellency remains effective for 25 washings

ACTIVE INGREDIENT %W/W

Permethrin ……………………...………..0.52%

OTHER INGREDIENTS: (Garment)…..99.48%

TOTAL………………………………..100.00%

It is a violation of Federal Law to use this product in a manner inconsistent with its labeling.

Retain hangtag for future reference on proper handling of this garment.

THIS TAG NOT TO BE REMOVED EXCEPT BY CUSTOMER

3.8.5 Barcode hang tag (all types, styles and classes). Each trouser shall have a white paper barcode hang tag conforming to Type VIII, Class 17 of MIL-DTL-32075 The hang tag shall be

Swift tacked in the side seam approximately 2-inches below the belt loop and shall be completely visible on the trouser when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and so it causes no damage to the trouser. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit National Stock Number (NSN). There shall be a 12 digit Universal Product Code (UPC) number assigned for all NSNs by the contracting activity. The initials “UPC” must appear beneath the code.

NOTE: The hang tag for insect protection and barcode may be applied jointly with the use of one

(1) Swift tack.

3.9 Figures. The figures in this specification are furnished for informational purposes only.

To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written document and the figure, the written document shall govern.

3.10 List of pattern parts. The Government shall furnish patterns, which show directional line markings for proper cutting and assembly, and are to be used as a guide for cutting contractor’s working patterns. The Government patterns provide a seam allowance of 1/2-inch for outseams, seat seams, and crotch seams, 1/4-inch allowance for hip pocket flaps and 3/8-inch allowance for all other seams, except where otherwise specified. Pockets, pocket flaps, knee patches, buttons, buttonholes, and bartacks shall be located in accordance with marks on patterns and table references. Minor modifications to the pattern are permitted where necessary to accommodate manufacture’s processes to include garment treatments and use of automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the final design, serviceability, appearance or final finished measurements. Table VA and Table VB pattern list is provided to insure that the pattern set is complete for all Types and Styles of trousers (see 6.2).

TABLE VA. Style A. Unisex list of pattern parts.

Material Nomenclature Pattern Abbreviation Cut Number

Basic

Material

Back PD1404A-BACK 2

Left Front PD1404A-FRONT_LFT 1

Right Front PD1404A-FRONT_RT 1

Left Fly PD1404A-LEFT_FLY 3

Right Fly Lining PD1404A-RGT_FLY_LIN 1

Knee Patch PD1404A-KNEE_PATCH 2

Seat Patch PD1404A-SEAT_PATCH 2

Side Hanging Pocket Bearer PD1404A-SD_HG_PK_BR 2

Side Hanging Pocket Facing PD1404A-SD_HG_PK_FC 2

Side Hanging Pocket PD1404A-SD_HANG_PKT 2

Cargo Pocket PD1404A-CARGO_PKT 2

Cargo Pocket Facing PD1404A-CRG_PKT_FAC 2

Cargo Pocket Flap PD1404A-CG_PKT_FLP 2

Cargo Pocket Flap Tab PD1404A-CG_PK_FLP_TB 2

Waistband Lining PD1404A-WAISTBAND_LN 1

Lower Leg Pocket PD1404A-LOLEG_PKT 2

Lower Leg Pocket Flap PD1404A-LOW_LEG_FLP 2

Hip Pocket PD1404A-HIP_POCKET 2

Hip Pocket Bearer PD1404A-HIP_PCKT_BR 2

Hip Pocket Facing PD1404A-HIP_PKT_FAC 2

Hip Pocket Flap PD1404A-HIP_PKT_FLP 2

TABLE VA. Style A. Unisex list of pattern parts – Continued

Material

Hip Pocket Flap Tab PD1404A-HP_PK_FL_TB 2

Leg Eyelet PD1404A-LEG_EYELET 2

Alternates Back Alternate PD1404A-BACK_ALT 2

Left Front Alternate PD1404A-FRT_LFT_ALT 1

Right Front Alternate PD1404A-FRNT_RT_ALT 1

Left Fly Alternate PD1404A-LFT_FLY_ALT 3

Right Fly Lining Alternate PD1404A-RT_FL_LNALT 1

Hip Pocket Alternate PD1404A-HIP_PKT_ALT 2

Hip Pocket Flap and Tab

Alternate

PD1404A-HPPKFLTB_AL 2

Side Pocket Hanging Bearer

Alternate

PD1404A-S_H_P_B_ALT 2

Side Hanging Pocket Facing

Alternate

PD1404A-S_H_P_F_ALT 2

Side Hanging Pocket Alternate PD1404A-SD_HGPK_ALT 2

TABLE VB. Style B. Female list of pattern parts.

Back PD1404B-BACK 2

Left Front PD1404B-FRONT_LFT 1

Right Front PD1404B-FRONT_RT 1

Left Fly PD1404B-LEFT_FLY 3

Right Fly Lining PD1404B-RGT_FLY_LIN 1

Knee Patch PD1404B-KNEE_PATCH 2

Seat Patch PD1404B-SEAT_PATCH 2

Side Hanging Pocket Bearer PD1404B-SD_HG_PK_BR 2

Side Hanging Pocket Facing PD1404B-SD_HG_PK_FC 2

Side Hanging Pocket PD1404B-SD_HANG_PKT 2

Cargo Pocket PD1404B-CARGO_PKT 2

Cargo Pocket Facing PD1404B-CRG_PKT_FAC 2

Cargo Pocket Flap PD1404B-CG_PKT_FLP 2

Cargo Pocket Flap Tab PD1404B-CG_PK_FLP_TB 2

TABLE VB. Style B. Female list of pattern parts - Continued

Material Nomenclature Pattern Abbreviation

Cut

Number

Waistband 1/ PD1404B-WAISTBAND 2

Lower Leg Pocket PD1404B-LOLEG_PKT 2

Lower Leg Pocket Flap PD1404B-LOW_LEG_FLP 2

Hip Pocket PD1404B-HIP_POCKET 2

Hip Pocket Bearer PD1404B-HIP_PCKT_BR 2

Hip Pocket Facing PD1404B-HIP_PKT_FAC 2

Hip Pocket Flap PD1404B-HIP_PKT_FLP 2

Hip Pocket Flap Tab PD1404B-HP_PK_FL_TB 2

Leg Eyelet PD1404B-LEG_EYELET 2

Hip Pocket Flap and Tab Alternate PD1404B-HPPKFLTB_AL 2

1/ Waistband pattern will be prepared by contractor in accordance with requirements indicated in section 3.7.2.

3.11 Configuration. Each trouser shall conform to design, appearance (see figures 1-6), the finished measurements in Table VIIIA and VIIIB and the construction methods specified in 3.11.1 through 3.11.2 and Tables VI and VII in order to maintain configuration compliance.

3.11.1 Seams and stitching. All seams shall be consistent and exhibit a uniform appearance and conform to the ASTM D 6193 seam and stitch types listed in Table VI. The backside of seams

(inside garment) shall be flat with no protruding seam allowance to create irritation or discomfort.

All material edges shall be clean finished, either, turned-in, turned-under or serged. All pocket flaps shall be serged prior to setting. Needle and bobbin thread tension shall be balanced such that neither is too tight nor too loose relative to each other. The seams for all outside visible stitching shall be sewn with 11 (± 1) stitches per inch. Overedge or pre-hemming shall be 10 (± 2) stitches per inch. Buttons shall be attached with 16 (± 1) stitches per button. Buttonholes shall be 54 (± 2) stitches per inch including tack. The sewn eyelets for the bellows pockets shall have a minimum of

16 stitches each with a 3/16 to 1/4-inch diameter finished opening. The width of the bight of stitching shall not be less than 1/16-inch. The eyelet stitching shall have at least four overlapping stitches with the purling on the outside. All stitches per inch and gauges shall be met prior to any applicable garment treatments.

3.11.1.1 Repair of stitch.

3.11.1.2 Repairs of stitching. Repairs of stitching shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks or bobbin run-outs occur during stitching, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2-inch in back of the end of the stitching.

b. Thread breaks or two (2) or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during end item inspection shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start at a minimum of 1/2-inch in back of the defective area and continue a minimum of 1/2-inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching, without damaging the materials, and restitching in the required manner.

NOTE. When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched. The loose ends shall be trimmed with scissors. Caution: Pulling or breaking the loose ends is not allowed.

3.11.1.3 Repairs of type 401 stitching only. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.11.1.1 and 3.11.1.2, except substitute 3/4-inch for 1/2-inch wherever 1/2-inch appears. Repairs to stitch

Type 401 may be accomplished by use of stitching Type 301.

3.11.2 Fly seaming and stitching. The fly construction stitching of front center crotch seam shall end at J-stitch. There shall be a horizontal bartack superimposed on the bottom point of the

J-stitch (see figure 6b).

TABLE VI. Seam and stitching types.

Seam placement Seam type Gauge Stitch type

Side seams, back seam and inseam

LSc-2

3/16 to 9/32-inch gauge (double lap seam)

301 or 401

Top stitching of pocket flaps and side pockets

OSf-1 3/16 to 1/4-inch from edge 301

Attachment of pockets LSd-1 1/16 to 1/8-inch from edge and 1/4-inch gauge

Raw edges of pocket flaps, pocket bagging, bearer or facings

Ssa-2 1/4 to 3/8-inch gauge 516, 519

FR identification marker to left cargo pocket flap (Types II and III only)

LSbj-1 Box stitch 7/8-inch by 7/8-inch 301

Setting of cargo and lower leg

Pocket and flaps

One (1) row fold, then one (1) row of stitching on top

Two (2) rows of stitching on top

Lsb1-2

Lsba-2

1/16 to 1/8-inch from edge

3/16 to 1/4-inch gauge

Cargo and lower leg pocket bellows, pleats edge stitch all

OSf-1 1/16 to 1/8-inch from edge 301

TABLE VI. Seam and stitching types - Continued

Attachment of knee reinforcements LSd-2 Two (2) rows 3/16 to 1/4-inch apart

Bottom hemming Efb-1 3/4 to 1-inch wide hem 301

Belt loops Efh-1 1/8 to 1/4-inch gauge from edge

402 or 406

Waistband attachment options

(Style A, Unisex):

- Grown-on lining attachment

- Top stitch

OR

LSct-2

LSct-3

1/16 to 1/8-inch from top and bottom edge of waistband lining

Along top edge

- Sewn-on 1-piece

-Top stitch

OR

- Sewn-on 2-piece

Bso-2/

Bso-3

LSbc-2

Along top edge

Elastic Waistband (Style B, Female only):

Metered elastic 1/

LSbc-4 Two (2) rows 3/16 to 1/4-inch apart 1/8-inch from edge

Seat patch LSd-2 Two (2) rows 3/16 to 1/4-inch apart. First row of stitching shall be 1/16 to 1/8-inch from folded edge

Buttonhole fly – join pieces along front edge; turned in edge

SSe-2 or

SSc-1

1/16 to 1/8-inch from turned in edge

Join left front and left fly lining along front edge; turned in edge

SSe-2 or

SSc-1

1/16 to 1/8-inch from turned in edge

TABLE VI. Seam and stitching types – Continued

Overedge back edges of left fly lining and buttonhole fly

EFd-1 3/16 to 1/4-inch gauge 502, 503 or

J-stitch LSbj-1 2 (± 1/8)-inch from edge 301

Join right front and right fly lining along front edge

SSe-2 or

SSc-1

1/16 to 1/8-inch from turned in edge

Overedge right fly raw edges FFd-1 3/16 to 1/4-inch gauge 502, 503 or

Crotch seam LSb-2 Two rows 3/16 to 1/4-inch apart. Stitching shall penetrate both crotch pattern pieces.

Stitching shall end 2-3/4 to

3-inches from inseam.

Labels LSbj-1 1/8 to 3/16-inch from edge 301

1/ Style B elastic; Elastic strips shall be sewn and be caught within interior of seam via all four

(4) topstitchings. Inserted elastic shall be capable of meeting the finished measurements in 3.12.1 and Table VIIIB. All stitch lines shall be correctly tensioned and balanced such that the stitch lines shall not impede stretch causing stitches break open or exceed the elastic stretch causing elastic to bear all the stress. Both the stitch line and elastic shall equally share the stress when stretched out.

3.11.3 Bartacking. To maintain garment durability and functionality, bartacks shall be placed as specified in Table VII. Bartacks shall be 1/8 to 3/16-inch wide.

TABLE VII. Bar-tack and back-tack placement.

Bar-tack or back-tack placement

Size of tack

(inches)

Stitches per tack 1/

# of Bar-tacks per side or piece

Horizontal Vertical

Style B, Elastic Waist Band

1/2-inch from each cut end of elastic webbing

X

Top and bottom of all belt loops (set 1/8-inch from top and bottom edge)

1/2

Center back of leg bottom hem,…