GEN_III_L6__GL-PD_06-17A_TrousersExtreme_Cold-Wet_Weather.pdf

INCH-POUND

GL/PD-06-17A

12 July 2011

SUPERSEDING

GL/PD-06-17

28 December 2007

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

TROUSERS, EXTREME COLD/WET WEATHER (GEN III)

This Purchase Description is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense (DoD).

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for a waterproof, extreme cold/wet weather trouser, which serves as a layer of the GEN III Extended Cold Weather

Clothing System (ECWCS).

1.2 Classification. The trouser will be of the following classes and sizes, as specified (see

6.2).

1.2.1 Classes.

Class 1 - Universal Camouflage Pattern (UCP)

Class 2 - Operation Enduring Freedom Camouflage Pattern (OCP)

1.2.2 Schedule of sizes

SCHEDULE OF SIZES

X-Small Small Medium Large X-Large XX-Large

Short Short

Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular

Long Long Long Long Long

X-Long X-Long”

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS.

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3, 4 or 5 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3, 4 or 5 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

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2.2 Government Documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards and handbooks. The following specifications, standards and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL STANDARDS

FED-STD-4 - Glossary of Fabric Imperfections

FED-STD-595 - Colors used in Government Procurement

FED-STD-595/20180 - Tan 499

FED-STD-595/24165 - Foliage Green 504

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-55126 - Fastener Tapes, Hook and Loop, Synthetic

A-A-55634 - Zipper, (Fastener, Slide Interlocking)

A-A-59826 - Thread, Nylon

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-C-43701 - Cord, Elastic, Nylon or Polyester

MIL-STD-1487 - Glossary of Cloth Coating Imperfections

MIL-PRF-5038 - Tape, Textile and Webbing, Textile, Reinforcing Nylon

MIL-W-5664 - Webbing, Textile elastic

MIL-F-10884 - Fasteners, Snap

MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use)

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch/ or from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings and publications. The following other

Government documents, drawings and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

DRAWINGS

U.S. ARMY RESEARCH, DEVELOPMENT AND ENGINEERING COMMAND, NATICK

SOLDIER CENTER

2-1-2519 - Universal Camouflage, ARPAT, 3-Color

2-1-2519-1 - Universal Camouflage, ARPAT, Desert Sand 500

2-1-2519-2 - Universal Camouflage, ARPAT, Urban Gray 501

2-1-2519-3 - Universal Camouflage, ARPAT, Foliage Green 502

NOTE: For any other camouflage patterns noted in the solicitation and contract, please contact contracting activity and the necessary samples, drawings and or patterns will be provided.

(Copies of drawings are available from the U.S. Army Natick Soldier Research Development and Engineering Command, Natick Soldier Center, ATTN: RDNS-WPW-C, Natick, MA 01760)

CODE OF FEDERAL REGULATIONS

16 CFR Part 1500 – Federal Hazardous Substances Act Regulations

29 CFR Part 1910 – Occupational Safety and Health Standards

(Copies are available online at http://www.access.gpo.gov or from U.S. Government Printing

Office, 732 North Capitol Street N.W., Washington, DC 20401.)

PURCHASE DESCRIPTIONS

GL/PD 10-07 - Cloth, Duck, Textured Nylon

(Copies of purchase descriptions, specifications, standards, drawings and publications required by contractors in connection with specification procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the Contracting Officer.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC-8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method

AATCC-15 - Colorfastness to Perspiration

AATCC-16 - Colorfastness to Light

AATCC-20 - Fiber Analysis: Quantitative

AATCC-22 - Water Repellency: Spray Test

AATCC-61 - Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated

AATCC-70 - Water Repellency: Tumble Jar Dynamic Absorption Test

AATCC-96 - Dimensional Changes in Commercial Laundering of Woven and

Knitted Fabrics, Except Wool

AATCC-132 - Colorfastness to Drycleaning

AATCC-135 - Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Laundering of Woven and Knitted Fabrics, Except Wool

AATCC-150 - Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Laundering of Garments

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 - Gray Scale for Color Change

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2 - Gray Scale for Staining

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8 - Chromatic Transference Scale, 9-Step

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9 - Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles http://www.access.gpo.gov/

(Copies of are available on line at http://www.aatcc.org or from the American Association of

Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies are available online at http://www.asq.org or from the American Society for Quality, 600

North Plankinton Avenue, Milwaukee, WI 53203.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D 276 - Standard Test Methods for Identification of Fibers in Textiles

ASTM D 747 - Standard Test Method for Apparent Bending Modulus of Plastics by

Means of a Cantilever Beam

ASTM D 751 - Standard Test Method for Coated Fabrics

ASTM D 1776 - Standard Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles

ASTM D 2582 - Standard Test Method for Puncture Propagation Tear, Resistance of

Plastic Film and Thin Sheeting

ASTM D 3775 - Standard Test Method for Warp (End) and Filling (Pick) Fabric Count of Woven Fabric

ASTM D 3776 - Standard Test Method for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric

ASTM D 5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile

Fabrics (Grab Test)

ASTM D 6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

ASTM E 96 - Standard Test Method for Water Vapor Transmission of Materials

ASTM F 392 - Standard Test Method for Flex Durability of Flexible Barrier Materials

(Copies of documents are available online at http://www.astm.org or from the ASTM

International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, P.O. Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

Repeat Insult Patch Test – Modified Draize Procedure Principles and Methods of Toxicology, (fourth edition) A Wallace Hayes (editor), pp 1057 – 1060, 2001

(Copies are available online at http//www.taylorandfrancis.co.uk/ or from Taylor and Francis, 325 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, PA 19106.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

http://www.aatcc.orgul/ http://www.asq.org/ http://www.astm.org/

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.3), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection (see 4.1).

3.2 Guide samples. Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor. Variations from the specification may appear in the sample in which case this specification shall govern.

3.3 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.4 Design. The trousers shall have a fly slide fastener, two pass through pockets with hook and loop flaps for water protection, a waistband with an elastic cord for adjustability and belt loops. The outside seam of both legs shall have a zipper that goes approximately 3/4 of the length of the leg (starting from the bottom) with a hook and loop flap cover for water protection.

Elastic leg cuffs with a strap for adjustability.

3.5 Basic Materials.

3.5.1 Standard sample. All cloth materials shall match the applicable standard sample for shade and appearance on the face side, and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6.4).

3.5.2 Basic shell material. The cloth shall be a waterproof and moisture vapor permeable, laminated cloth utilizing a 100% nylon, ripstop face fabric. The cloth shall meet the performance requirements of Table I when tested as specified in 4.5. The color of the face side of the cloth shall be Universal Camouflage Pattern (UCP) for Class 1 and Operation Enduring

Freedom Camouflage Pattern (OCP) for Class 2. The color of the back side of the cloth shall be a subdued color approximating Universal Camouflage pattern, Foliage Green 504 or Urban Gray

505, for Class 1 and approximating Cream 524 or Tan 525 for Class 2 as an alternate for both

Classes 1 and 2, color Grey shade may be used.

3.5.2.1 Physical requirements. The cloth shall conform to the physical requirements specified in Table I when tested as specified in 4.5.

TABLE I. Basic shell material - physical requirements

Characteristic Requirement

Weight, oz/sq. yd (max.) 3.7

Breaking strength, lbs (min.)

Warp 100

Filling 100

Tearing strength, kgf (min.)

Warp 2.3

Filling 2.8

TABLE I. Basic shell material - physical requirements - Continued

Hydrostatic Resistance, psi (min)

Initial 100

After strength of coating 90

After high humidity 90

After diethyltoluamide

Initial 90

After laundering 90

Moisture vapor transmission rate, g/m /24h (min.) -

Initial

Procedure B 650

Procedure BW 4500

After synthetic perspiration

Procedure B 650

Procedure BW 4500

Stiffness, in-lbs (max.) –

At 70 o F

0.001

At 32 o F 0.001

Blocking, rating (max.) No. 1

Water permeability –

No leakage

After synthetic perspiration

Initial and after laundering No leakage

After physical surface appearance No leakage

After flex (70 o F)

Warp and filling directions No leakage

After diethyltoluamide

Initial and after laundering No leakage

Spray rating, rating -

100, 100, 90

After 5 launderings 100, 90, 90

Resistance to organic liquid, pass/fail -

Initial No wetting

After 5 launderings No wetting

Sealed seams See 3.7.2

Dimensional stability, percent (max.)

Warp 4.0

Filling 2.0

TABLE I. Basic shell material - physical requirements

Color See 3.5.2.2

Colorfastness to:

Laundering See 3.5.2.2.3

Light See 3.5.2.2.3

Perspiration See 3.5.2.2.3

Crocking See 3.5.2.2.3

Pattern Execution See 3.5.2.3

Spectral Reflectance See 3.5.2.4

Toxicity 3.11 1/

1/ The finished cloth shall not present a dermal health hazard when used as intended.

3.5.2.2 Color.

3.5.2.2.1 Class 1, Universal Camouflage Pattern (UCP). The color of the face side of the cloth shall be Universal Camouflage pattern and shall match Desert Sand 500, Urban Gray 501, and Foliage Green 502. Each area of the specific color of the pattern shall be in accordance with the applicable standard sample or drawing number 2-1-2519.

3.5.2.2.2 Class 2, Operation Enduring Freedom Camouflage Pattern (OCP). The color of the face side of the cloth shall be OCP dyed to a ground shade either matching or approximating

Cream 524 and then overprinting with the camouflage pattern by roller or screen printing.

When the ground shade is dyed to match Cream 524, the remaining colors shall be obtained by subsequent printing using six rollers or screens, as appropriate for the Tan 525, Pale Green 526, Olive 527, Dark Green 528, Brown 529 and Dark Brown 530 areas of the pattern. When the ground shade is dyed to approximate Cream 524 all seven colors of the camouflage pattern shall be obtained by subsequent printing using seven rollers or screens to match all seven colors (see

6.4). Resin bonded pigments are not permitted.

3.5.2.2.3 Colorfastness. The colorfastness for finished Class 1 (UCP) and Class 2 (OCP) cloths shall conform to the requirements listed in Table II, when tested as specified in 4.5.

TABLE II. Colorfastness requirements (Classes 1 and 2).

Class

Colors

Evaluation

Laundering

( 4 cycles)

1/(min.)

Light (40 hrs or 170 kJ) 2/

(min.)

Perspiration

(acid & alkaline) 1/

(min.)

Crocking 3/

(min.)

Class 1

UCP

All colors 3-4 3-4 --- 3.5

Class 2

OCP

All colors 3-4 --- 3-4 3.5

Dk. Green 528, Brown 529, Dark Brown530

--- 3-4 --- ---

Cream 524, Tan

525, Pale Green

526, Olive 527

--- 3 --- ---

1/ Rated using the AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change and AATCC Gray Scale for Staining.

2/ Rated using the AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.

3/ Rated using the AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale

3.5.2.3 Pattern execution.

3.5.2.3.1 Class 1, Universal Camouflage Pattern (UCP). The Universal Camouflage pattern shall reproduce the standard sample in respect to design, colors and registration of the respective areas. The pattern repeat of the dyed, printed, and finished cloth shall be 36.00 inches (+1.25 inches, -2.50 inches) in the warp direction. The various areas of the pattern shall be properly registered in relation to each other and shall present definite sharp demarcations with a minimum of feathering or spew. Each pattern area shall show solid coverage; skitteriness exceeding that shown by the standard sample in any of the printed areas shall not be acceptable. When the standard sample is not referenced for pattern execution or design, a pattern drawing shall be provided, and the pattern on the finished cloth shall match that of Drawing 2-1-2519.

3.5.2.3.2 Class 2, Operation Enduring Freedom Camouflage Pattern (OCP). The pattern on the printed finished cloth(s) shall reproduce the standard sample in respect to design, colors and registration of the respective areas. The pattern repeat of the Operation Enduring Freedom

Camouflage pattern shall be 25.255 (+1.25, -2.50). The various areas of the pattern shall be properly registered in relation to each other and shall present definite sharp demarcations with a minimum of feathering or spew. Each pattern area shall show solid coverage; skitteriness exceeding that shown on the standard sample in any of the printed areas will not be acceptable.

When the standard sample is not referenced for pattern execution, a pattern drawing provided by the Government at the time of award shall be used (see 2.2.2, 6.2, and 6.4).

3.5.2.4 Spectral reflectance.

3.5.2.4.1 Spectral reflectance, Class 1, Universal Camouflage (UCP). The spectral reflectance of the colors in the Universal Camouflage cloth shall conform to the requirements specified in Table III, when tested as specified in 4.5.

TABLE III. Spectral Reflectance Requirements: Reflectance (percent), for Class 1

Universal Camouflage Pattern (UCP)

Wavelengths

Nanometers (nm)

Desert Sand 500 Urban Gray 501 Foliage Green 502

Min Max Min Max Min Max

600 28 42 12 26 8 18

620 30 44 14 26 8 18

640 34 50 14 28 8 20

660 38 59 14 30 10 26

680 44 63 18 34 10 26

700 46 69 24 38 12 28

720 48 71 26 42 16 30

740 48 76 30 46 16 30

760 50 80 32 48 18 32

780 54 80 34 48 18 34

800 54 80 34 50 20 36

820 54 80 36 54 22 38

840 56 82 38 54 24 40

860 56 82 40 56 26 42

3.5.2.4.2 Spectral reflectance, Class 2, Operation Enduring Freedom Camouflage Pattern

(OCP). The spectral reflectance of the colors in the OCP cloth shall conform to the requirements specified in Table IV, when tested as specified in 4.5.

TABLE IV Spectral Reflectance Requirements: Reflectance (percent) for Class 2.

Operation Enduring Freedom Camouflage Pattern (OCP)

Cream 524

Tan 525

Pale Green 526 Olive

527, Brown 529

Dark Green 528

Dark Brown 530

Wavelength (nm) Min Max Min Max Min Max

600 22 44 10 30 3 12

620 24 45 11 30 3 12

640 24 45 11 32 4 12

660 25 45 12 32 4 13

680 28 48 14 35 4 18

700 28 54 19 40 6 25

720 30 58 22 43 6 27

740 32 60 25 46 10 29

760 36 61 27 48 14 33

780 38 62 28 50 18 36

800 40 62 29 50 20 37

820 44 65 30 51 20 38

TABLE IV Spectral Reflectance Requirements: Reflectance (percent) for Class 2. - Continued

Operation Enduring Freedom Camouflage Pattern (OCP)

Cream 524

Tan 525

Pale Green 526 Olive

527, Brown 529

Dark Green 528

Dark Brown 530

Wavelength (nm) Min Max Min Max Min Max

840 46 66 32 51 21 39

860 48 67 33 52 21 40

3.5.3 Reinforcing material, knee and seat. The reinforcement material used for the knee and seat patches for Class 1 trousers, shall be a plain weave, nylon cloth conforming to Type IV

Class 3 style F of the GL-PD-10-07 and Class 2 trousers, shall be a plain weave, nylon cloth conforming to Type IV, Class 3 style G of GL-PD-10-07. The color of the face side of the cloth shall be camouflage printed.

3.6 Components.

3.6.1 Thread. The thread for all seaming and stitching shall be A-A-59826, “Thread, Nylon”

Type I Tex size 45-46 , 2or 3 ply (Government size B) or Type II, Tex size 45-51, 2 or 3 ply

(Government size B), at 6.0 pounds breaking strength, with “Water-Repellent” finish.. As an alternate, bobbin/looper threads can be Nylon, Type I Tex size 30-32, 2 or 3 ply (Government size AA) or Type II Tex size 30-36, 2 or 3 ply (Government size AA), with a minimum breaking strength of 4.0 pounds, with “Water-Repellent” finish. As an alternate to nylon thread, polyester, Tex size 45 ( Government size B), 2 or 3 ply, conforming to Type I, Class 1, Subclass B of MIL-

DTL-32072, or size Tex size 46-60, 2 or 3 ply polyester core thread conforming to A-A-50199.

All thread shall be water repellent treated as specified in MIL-T-3530. The stitching shall be 9-

12 stitches per inch. The color shall be Foliage Green 504/24165 of FED STD 595 for Class 1 and Tan 499/20180 of FED STD 595 for Class 2 unless otherwise specified in the contract or solicitation.

3.6.2 Tape, hook and loop. The hook and loop fastener tape shall conform to Type II, Class

1 of A-A-55126, with selvage edges. No slit or split edges are permitted. Sew all hook and loop minimum of 1/8 inch from bound selvage to prevent needle cutting along edges. To prevent raveling, do not sew directly on selvage. However, each required width shall maintain a tolerance of + 1/32 inch as to prevent stitching runoffs or improper fit into automatic sewing equipment. The color shall match Foliage Green 504/24165 of FED STD 595 for Class 1 and

Tan 499/20180 of FED STD 595 for Class 2 unless otherwise specified in the contract or solicitation.

3.6.2.1 Alternate tape, loop. As an alternate, loop fastener tape without selvages edges

(reduce field fraying) shall conform to class 1 of A-A-55126 except without selvage edges; the following products may be used: YKK “Cosmolon Edge to Edge" with heat-sealed edges or

Velcro "DD", an edge-to-edge loop tape. Sew all loop tape minimum of 1/8 inch from edge to prevent needle cutting along edges. However, each required width shall maintain a tolerance of

+1/32 inch as to prevent stitching runoffs or improper fit into automatic sewing equipment. The color shall match Foliage Green 504/24165 of FED STD 595 for Class 1 and Tan 499/20180 of

FED STD 595 for Class 2 unless otherwise specified in the contract or solicitation.

3.6.2.2 Alternate tape, hook. As an alternate to hook tape without selvages (reduce field fraying), the following products may be used: Extruded plastic hook tape identified as "Velcro brand HTH 841" or "YKK brand SA200A". The color shall match Foliage Green 504/24165 of

FED STD 595 for Class 1 and Tan 499/20180 of FED STD 595 for Class 2 unless otherwise specified in the contract or solicitation.

3.6.2.3 Colorfastness, tape hook and loop. Unless otherwise specified, all fastener tapes

(hook and loop) shall show fastness equal to or better than a rating “4-5” to light, equal to or better than a rating of “2-3” for laundering using AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change and equal to or better that rating of “4” for crocking using AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale.

The color depreciation for laundering and light shall remain in the same hue as compared to the original sample. (Hue/cast is defined as the attribute of color that classifies a color as red, blue, green etc.).

3.6.2.4 Hook and loop laundry durability test method. When tested in accordance with

4.6.16, the hook and loop tapes shall not exhibit fraying edges, peeling yarns, or damage appearance that detracts from the tape appearance or durability.

3.6.3 Elastic cord. The elastic cord shall be 3/16-inch wide, nylon elastic cord conforming to

Type II of MIL-C-43701. The elastic cord shall have a seared and knotted end. The color shall match Foliage Green 504/24165 of FED STD 595 for Class 1 and Tan 499/20180 of FED STD

595 for Class 2 unless otherwise specified in the contract or solicitation.

3.6.4 Slide fasteners. Fly slide fastener (zipper) shall be A-A-55634, No 5 Continuous element chain, with 175 pounds minimum crosswise strength, Type I, style 4, auto-lock slider, open top, closed bottom stop with water repellent treated tape, Foliage Green 504/24165 of FED

STD 595 for Class 1 and Tan 499/20180 of FED STD 595 for Class 2, unless otherwise specified in the contract or solicitation. Leg opening slide fasteners (zippers) shall be A-A-55634 Type I, style 4 non-lock slider reversed such that face side of slide fastener (zipper) is tape side to maximize water repellent also pulling up on slider opens slide fastener (zipper) whereas, fly slide fastener (zipper) closes.

3.6.4.1 Zipper pulls. The zipper pulls shall be nylon tape, 3/8 inch wide conforming to Type

III, MIL-PRF-5038. There shall be three (3) per garment with each threaded through a zipper pull and bartacked with 3/4-inch bartack. The color shall match Foliage Green 504/24165 of

FED STD 595 for Class 1 and Tan 499/20180 of FED STD 595 for Class 2 unless otherwise specified in the contract or solicitation.

3.6.5 Barrel lock. The barrel locks shall maintain a 3-pound minimum holding strength on elastic cord (see 3.6.3) at -40°F, 70°F and 140°F when tested in accordance with 4.6.13. The barrel lock shall be 1/2-inch by 3/8-inch elliptical or 3/8-inch round shape, minimum push-button size to easily operate with gloves. The color shall match Foliage Green 504 /24165 of FED STD

595 for Class 1 and Tan 499/20180 of FED STD 595for Class 2 unless otherwise specified in the contract or solicitation.

3.6.5.1 Eyelet. The eyelets for the trouser waistband shall be Stimpson telescoping brass eyelets with neck washer, part numbers A1215 and A665 or equal (see 6.5). The color of the eyelets shall be Foliage Green 504/24165 of FED STD 595 for Class 1 and Tan 499/20180 of

FED STD 595 for Class 2 unless otherwise specified in the contract or solicitation.

3.6.5.2 Snap fasteners. Snap fasteners shall conform to MIL-F-10884 style 2A. The snap fasteners shall have a black chemical finish, except the button cap shells may have a foliage green 504 baked-on enamel finish. The enamel shall be uniformly coated over the top surface of the shell including the visible portion of the edge. The gloss for the black chemical finish and the enamel finish shall be no more than 40. The enamel shall be capable of withstanding attachment operations without removal of any enamel. The enamel coating shall be smooth and free of sags, runs, and streaks.

3.6.6 Elastic material. The elastic material used on the leg cuffs shall be in accordance with

MIL-W-5664, Type II, 1 inch (+ 1/16) inch in width. The color shall be natural.

3.6.7 Suspender loops. The suspender loops shall be nylon tape, 3-inch (±1/4) inch in length by 1/2-inch wide conforming to Type III, of MIL-PRF-5038. The color shall match Foliage

Green 504/24165 of FED STD 595 for Class 1 and Tan 499/20180 of FED STD 595 for Class 2 unless otherwise specified in the contract or solicitation. Suspender loops shall be placed centered between the first and second belt loop on the inside waist band and centered on the waistband topstitch.

3.7 Construction. See figures 4 and patterns for more details.

3.7.1 Bartacks. Bartacks shall be as follows and as shown in Figures 1 through 4.

Bartack Location Bartack Length, Inch Quantity per Garment

Zipper Pull 3/4 3

Belt loops 1/4 14 fly 3/8 1

Ankle cuff 3/4 2

Ankle tab 3/4 2

Suspender loops 3/8 4

3.7.2 Seams. The seams shall be consistent, exhibit a uniform appearance and conform to

ASTM D 6193 stitch types, no raw edges of outer shell fabric allowed. Unless otherwise specified, Type 301 lockstitch at 9-12 stitches per inch shall be used. All seams or stitching that are evident on both the outside and inside of the garment shall be waterproof seams (i.e., a seam or stitch line with one side on the outside of the garment and its other side on inside of the garment). With the following exceptions: bartacks on loops, waist and leg cuff. Loop fastener tape shall be stitched on the loop pile and not on the selvage.

3.7.2.1 Seam sealant tape. The seam tape shall be launderable and shall prevent water leakage through seams and stitching. Seam tape shall be applied only to the inside of the end item. Tape shall be cut 1-inch (± 1/16) inch wide strips from material that is compatible with the back side of cloth specified in Table I. The seam tape shall approximate the shade of the back of the basic cloth (see 3.5.2).

3.7.2.2 Waterproof seams. There shall be no leakage of waterproof seams when tested for hydrostatic resistance, initially and after five (5) launderings, as specified in 4.6.17.2 and

4.6.17.1.

3.7.3 Primary seams. Side seams, Inseams, Crotch seam, Seat seam, and horizontal knee patch seams shall be seam type LSq-2 with seam tape sealing with minimum of 1/8-inch beyond seam allowance.

3.7.4 Waistband. Overedge 504 seam top edge of waistband and double-stitch 1/2-inch by

3 inch suspender webbings with seam LSd-1. Insert elastic cording within 1 1/8- inch fold line of waistband and topstitch complete waistband in continuous stitch line. Back center of elastic cording shall be double stitched or bartacked to serve as a hold down point. Set metal snap with stud side on top of slide fastener (zipper) backing and socket on cover side.

3.7.5 Leg adjustment strap. Attach 1-inch by 1 1/4-inch hook tape per pattern placement.

Assemble 1-1/8 inch wide strap with SSc-1 seam with topstitching 1/16 inch nominal along three

(3) edges.

3.7.6 Slide fasteners

3.7.6.1 Slide fastener (zipper) cover (left). Attach left slide fastener (zipper) tape to fly slide fastener (zipper) cover facing with seam LSbj-1 per pattern placement. Seam facing to outer shell fly cut edge with SSa-1, turn and topstitch for SSc-1 finished seam. Topstitch J-stitch 1-3/8 inch from cover edge and finish topstitching at slide fastener (zipper) bottom tape. Finished slide fastener (zipper) cover shall be 3/8-inch nominal from slide fastener (zipper) chain.

3.7.6.2 Slide fastener (zipper) backing (right). Sew backing pattern strips together with SSa-

1 seam, turn and topstitch for SSc-1 finished seam at 1/16-inch from edge. Sew right side slide fastener (zipper) tape to backing strip and outer shell fly cut edge with SSa-1. Turn and top stitch assembly together 1/16-inch from edge turn-in along slide fastener (zipper) tape. Finished appearance shall show 1-inch backing from slide fastener (zipper) chain and 3/16- inch nominal slide fastener (zipper) tape. When slide fastener (zipper) is engaged the slide fastener (zipper) cover shall effectively cover slide fastener (zipper) and top stitch of backing and snap fastener stud and socket shall be aligned.

3.7.6.3 Leg opening zipper assembly. Sew three (3), 5/8-inch by 3-inch hook strips on inner slide fastener (zipper) cover and three (3) loop strips on outer slide fastener (zipper) cover per pattern placement. Fold in half lengthwise, and sew slide fastener (zipper) cover sides with SSa-

1, turn inside out and top stitch along three (3) sides 3/16 inch nominal from edges. Sew slide fastener (zipper) tape to outer shell fabric with seam LSba-2. Topstitch 1/16-inch nominal from edge. NOTE: Slide fastener (zipper) tape side shall be exposed to maximize water resistance.

Slide fastener (zipper) closes when slider is pulled down. Sew two cover strips with LSbl-2 with top stitch 3/16-inch nominal along edge. Insert leg adjustment tab into lower portion of seam with hook tape side up. Finished appearance shall show inner cover fitting inside outer cover in a flat even manner when slide fastener (zipper) is engaged. Hook and loop tape strips shall be in alignment and leg adjustment tab inserted under outer cover.

3.7.7 Belt loops (7). Fold belt loop pattern strip in half to get 7/16-inch strip per seam type

EFae-1 or alternative EFY-2 with stitch type 402 at 1/4-inch gauge. Place belt loops per pattern placement. Opening of belt loops shall be 2-inch minimum. No. 4 belt loop shall be dead center on seat seam. As necessary to facilitate the use of automated belt loop equipment, belt loops positioned over the pockets may be moved toward the front of the trousers by not more than 1-inch from pattern markings.

3.7.7.1 Pass through pockets. Overedge single layer inner pocket lining strip with 504 stitch and seam outer edge to outer shell fabric with SSa-1 seam, turn and finish with SSc-1 seam.

Fabricate double layer pocket facing strips as same with SSc-1 seam on inside and SSa-1 seam, on outside seam. Sew double layer facing strip to outer shell pocket location with seam LSq-2.

Sew two (2), 5/8-inch by 2-inch hook tape 1/4-inch from edge of facing strip per pattern placement. Sew two (2), 5/8-inch by 2-inch loop strips per pattern placement for double layer pocket cover. Sew side edges with SSa-1, turn-in, fold cover in half and topstitch on three (3) sides 1/4-inch nominal from edges. Attach to pocket opening per pattern placement with SSa-1, turn and topstitch 1/2-inch nominal from pocket opening without sewing through pocket lining.

Finished pass through shall show pocket opening in exact line without seam with pocket flap laying flat with hook and loop strips in alignment.

3.7.8 Elasticized leg cuff. Insert 1-inch wide elastic webbing into leg hem front to back and close hem with LSd-1. Do not catch elastic into topstitch line. Topstitch 1-inch by 5-inch loop tape strip per pattern placement and leg adjustment strap into outer zipper cover topstitching with hook tape side facing out. See Table VI for relaxed leg opening measurement.

3.7.9 Labels. The trouser shall have a label in accordance with Type VI, Class 14 of MIL-

DTL-32075. The color of the labels shall approximate the ground shade of the basic fabric or

White. In addition it shall contain a bar coding label in accordance with Type VIII and Class 17.

3.7.9.1 The combination size, identification and instruction label for the hard shell trouser.

The top (only) of the combination label shall be sewn on the inside of the trouser along the back of the waistband. The printed label shall be facing the body and it shall not be visible from the outside after use. The instruction label shall include the following information:

DO NOT STARCH, BLEACH, DRY CLEAN

OR PRESS THE TROUSER

LAUNDERING:

(a) Home laundering (machine/hand): Delicate/gentle fabric cycle setting or hand washing using a detergent. Rinse thoroughly in warm water. NOTE: Any residual detergent on the trouser will decrease the water repellency.

Home Drying: Tumble dry on permanent press setting. Remove immediately from dryer.

Do not overheat or over dry. To drip dry, place on a rust-proof hanger.

(b) Field Laundering: Trousers shall be laundered utilizing Formula II of FM 42-414.

Field Drying: Tumble dry at low temperature setting. Remove immediately from dryer.

Do not overheat or over dry.

(c) Field Restoration of Water Repellent Finish: Trouser shall be laundered utilizing

Formula XII of FM 42-414. Dry trouser at a temperature not to exceed 150

F.

3.8 Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished by the Government and provide a seam allowance of 1/4-inch for all seams, except where otherwise specified. The pattern list in Table

V is provided to ensure that the pattern set provided is complete. The Government patterns shall not be altered in any way, and are to be used only as a guide for cutting the contractor‟s working patterns. The working patterns will be identical to the Government patterns, except that additional notching to facilitate manufacture is possible. Also, minor modifications are permitted where necessary to accommodate manufacturer‟s processes and using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the serviceability or appearance requirements.

3.8.1 Pattern parts. The component parts shall be cut from the materials indicated and in accordance with the pattern parts listed in Table V.

TABLE V. Cutters must (list of pattern parts)

PIECE NAME FABRIC QTY

1 HSB_TOP FRONT LEFT LEG SELF CUT 1 FACE UP

2 HSB_TOP FRONT RIGHT LEG SELF CUT 1 FACE UP

3 HSB_KNEE UNDER SELF CUT 2

4 HSB_BOTTOM FRONT LEG SELF CUT 2

5 HSB_PANT SEAT UNDER SELF CUT 2

6 HSB_BACK LEG SELF CUT 2

7 HSB_LEFT FLY FACING SELF CUT 1 FACE UP

8 HSB_RIGHT FLY BACKING SELF CUT 2

9 HSB_ANKLE TAB SELF CUT 2

10 HSB_BELT LOOP SELF CUT 1

11 HSB_TOP FLAP SELF CUT 2

12 HSB_UNDER FLAP SELF CUT 2

13 HSB_WELT LEFT SELF CUT 2

14 HSB_WELT RIGHT SELF CUT 2

15 HSB_POCKET FACING SELF CUT 2

16 HSB_POCKET FLAP SELF CUT 2

17 HSB_PANT SEAT TOP CONTRAST CUT 2

18 HSB_KNEE TOP CONTRAST CUT 2

COMMENTS BELOW:

SELF = BASIC SHELL MATERIAL

CONTRAST = NYLON REINFORCING FABRIC

The lengths of the fly and leg opening slide fasteners for the various size-length trousers shall be as shown in TABLE V, line items 5 and 6, respectively.

3.9. Type 301 stitching. When Type 301 stitching is used, the ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/2-inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching. Ends of a continuous line of stitching shall over-lap not less than

1/2 -inch. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lock shall be embedded in the materials sewn.

3.9.1 Repairs of type 301 stitching.

a. When thread breaks, skipped stitches, run-offs, or bobbin run-outs occur during sewing, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2-inch back of the end of the stitching. 1/

b. Except for pre-stitching, thread breaks or two or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of 1/2-inch in back of the defective area, continue over the defective area, and continue a minimum of 1/2-inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials, and re-stitching in the required manner. 1/

1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched.

3.9.1.2 Automatic stitching. Automatic machines may be used to perform any of the required stitch patterns provide the requirements for the stitch pattern, stitches per inch, and size and type of thread are met; and at least three (3) tying, overlapping or back stitches are used to secure the ends of the stitching.

3.9.1.3 Thread ends. All thread ends shall be trimmed to a length of not more than 1/4-inch unless otherwise specified.

3.10 Finished measurements. The trousers finished measurements shall be in accordance with Table VI.

TABLE VI. Trouser finished measurements (measurements in inches)

REGULAR XS S M L XL 2XL

TOL ±

( inches)

1 WAIST RELAXED 1/ 16 18 20 22 24 26 -1/4, +1/2

2 INSEAM 2/ 29 29 29 29 29 29 -1/2, +1/2

3 OUTSEAM 3/ 40 1/2 41 41 1/2 42 42 1/2 43 -1/2, +1/2

4 LEG OPENING - RELAXED 4/ 7 7 1/2 8 8 1/2 9 9 1/2 -1/4, +1/4

5 FRONT FLY ZIPPER OPENING 5/ 8 8 8 1/2 8 1/2 9 9 -1/2, +1/2

6 SIDE LEG ZIPPER OPENING 6/ 25 25 25 25 25 25 -1/2, +1/2

WAIST RELAXED CORD

KNOTTED 7/ 34 38 42 46 50 54 -1/2, +1/2

SHORT XS S

2 INSEAM 2/ 27 27 -1/2, +1/2

3 OUTSEAM 3/ 38 38 1/2 -1/2, +1/2

5 FRONT FLY ZIPPER OPENING 5/ 7 1/2 7 1/2 -1/2, +1/2

6 SIDE LEG ZIPPER OPENING 6/ 23 23 -1/2, +1/2

LONG S M L XL 2XL

2 INSEAM 2/ 31 31 31 31 31 -1/2, +1/2

3 OUTSEAM 3/ 43 1/2 44 44 1/2 45 45 1/2 -1/2, +1/2

5 FRONT FLY ZIPPER OPENING 5/ 8 1/2 9 9 9 1/2 9 1/2 -1/2, +1/2

6 SIDE LEG ZIPPER OPENING 6/ 27 27 27 27 27 -1/2, +1/2

XLONG XL 2XL

2 INSEAM 2/ 33 33 -1/2, +1/2

3 OUTSEAM 3/ 47 1/2 48 -1/2, +1/2

5 FRONT FLY ZIPPER OPENING 5/ 10 10 -1/2, +1/2

6 SIDE LEG ZIPPER OPENING 6/ 29 29 -1/2, +1/2

1/ Waist measurement taken flat from folded edge to folded edge.

2/ Inseam is measured from bottom of crotch point straight to hem on inside of leg.

3/ Outseam measurement taken from top of waist to hem.

4/ Leg Opening is taken from folded edge to folded edge in a relaxed state.

5/ Front fly zipper is measured from bottom of waist topstitch to top of zipper stop.

6/ Side leg zipper is measured from top of top stop to bottom of bottom stop.

4, 5, 6, & 7 are for construction purposes only.

SEAM ALLOWANCE:

1/4" : all seams except for:

3/8" : Leg zipper construction

NOTE: All measurement locations listed under the “regular” column are required for all lengths. To determine the required measurement for the various lengths – use the sizing designation across the top of the table (XS, S, M etc.).

3.11 Toxicity. The finished extreme cold wet weather trousers shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.5. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classifications of Inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as outlined below.

a) First article inspection (see 4.2)

b) Conformance inspection (see 4.3)

4.2 First article inspection. When a first article is required (see 3.1 and 6.3), it shall be examined for the defects specified in Table VIII, dimensions specified in Table VI, and tested as specified in 4.4, and 4.5.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4, as defined by contract, except where otherwise specified.

4.4 Component and end item inspections. In accordance with 4.1, components and materials in the end items shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this document or applicable procurement documents. The Government reserves the right to inspect all components and end items to determine conformance to requirements.

4.5 Basic material testing. The basic materials specified in 3.5 shall be tested for the characteristics listed in Table VII in accordance with the test methods cited.

TABLE VII. Basic material testing.

Characteristic

Reference

Paragraph Test Method

Basic shell material

Fiber identification 3.5.2 AATCC-20 or ASTM D 276 1/

Weave 3.5.2 Visual

Weight 3.5.2.1 ASTM D 3776 (Method C)

Breaking strength 3.5.1.2 ASTM D 5034 (G-E or G-T)

Tearing strength 3.5.1.2 ASTM D 2582 2/

Hydrostatic Resistance 3.5.2.1

Initial 3.5.1.2 4.6.11.1

After strength of coating 3.5.1.2 4.6.11.2

After high humidity 3.5.1.2 4.6.11.3

After diethyltoluamide

Initial and after laundering 3.5.1.2 4.6.11.4, 4.6.10 & 4.6.11.1

TABLE VII. Basic material testing. - Continued

Paragraph Test Method

Basic shell material-Continued

Moisture vapor transmission

Initial (Procedure B &BW)

3.5.1.2

4.6.1-4.6.1.2

(Procedure B & BW)

3.5.1.2 4.6.3.2 & 4.6.1-4.6.1.2

Stiffness

At 32 o

F 3.5.1.2 3/ & ASTM D 747 4/

Stiffness

At 70

F

ASTM D 747 4/

Blocking 3.5.1.2 4.6.2

Water permeability –

4.6.3

Initial and after laundering 3.5.1.2 4.6.3.2, 4.6.10 & 4.6.3

After physical surface appearance 3.5.1.2 4.6.3.3 & 4.6.3

After flex (70 o F) 3.5.1.2 4.6.3.1

After diethyltoluamide

Initial and after laundering 3.5.1.2 4.6.11.4, 4.6.10 & 4.6.3

Spray rating

4.6.4.1

After 5 launderings 3.5.1.2 4.6.4.2

Resistance to organic liquid

Initial 3.5.1.2 4.6.5.1

After 5 launderings 3.5.1.2 4.6.5.2

Dimensional stability

Warp

Fill

3.5.2.1

3.5.2.1

AATCC-96, Option 1C

AATCC-96, Option 1C

Sealed Seams 3.7.2 4.6.17

Color 3.5.2.2 4.6.6

Colorfastness to:

Laundering 3.5.2.2.3 4.6.9.1

Light 3.5.2.2.3 4.6.9.2

Crocking 3.5.2.2.3 AATCC-8

Perspiration 3.5.2.2.3 AATCC-15

Pattern Execution 3.5.2.3 4.6.7

Spectral Reflectance 3.5.2.4 4.6.8

Toxicity 3.5.2.1 4.6.18

TABLE VII. Basic material testing. - Continued

Paragraph Test Method

Fastener Tape, Hook and Loop

Color 3.6.2 4.6.6

Colorfastness To:

Dry cleaning 3.6.2.3 AATCC-132

Light 3.6.2.3 4.6.9.2

Laundering after 5 cycles 3.6.2.3 AATCC-61, Opt. 3A

Crocking 3.6.2.3 AATCC-8

Laundry Durability 3.6.2.4 4.6.16-4.6.16.4

Elastic cord

Elongation 3.6.3 4.6.14

Weight 3.6.3 ASTM D 3776

Picks/inch 3.6.3 Visual

Number of carriers 3.6.3 Visual

Ends per carrier 3.6.3 Visual

Elastic strands/width 3.6.3 4.6.15

Toxicity 3.11 4.6.18

Barrel lock

Strength

At -40 o F 3.6.5 4.6.13

At 70 o F 3.6.5 4.6.13

At 140 o F 3.6.5 4.6.13

Toxicity 3.11 4.6.18

1/ In case of dispute, the ASTM Method prevails

2/ Tear strength. ASTM D 2582, with exceptions as follows: Five warp and five filling specimens shall be tested. Specimen size shall be 8-inches by 8-inches. Only one tear shall be made on a single specimen. The specimen shall be positioned with the face side toward the probe and with the designated yarns of the face fabric at right angles to the direction of tear. The test shall be conducted using the standard drop height of 508 (+ 2) millimeters. If the tear is not straight on face side of the specimen, the result shall be considered invalid and another specimen shall be tested. The thickness of the specimen shall not be measured.

3/ The test specimens and testing machine shall be exposed to 32°F(+2)°F for four (4) hours.

The test shall then be performed in still air at that temperature.

4/ Stiffness (bending moment) shall be conducted in accordance with ASTM D 747 except as follows:

a. Unless otherwise specified, the testing conditions shall be in accordance with ASTM

D 1776.

b. The test specimen shall be a rectangle of cloth of dimensions 2-inches by 1-inch with the long dimension parallel to the fabric direction under test, warp or filling, as applicable.

c. The load scale reading shall be recorded only at the specimen angular deflection of 60 degrees.

d. The stiffness is the bending moment of specimen at a deflection angle of 60 degrees and shall be calculated to three significant figures as follows:

Bending moment, in.-lb. = Load scale reading x moment weight*

* Testing machine of Tinius Olsen Testing Machine Co.

4.6 Methods of testing. All testing shall be done in a standard condition environment defined by the ASTM D 1776, if not specifically defined by the individual test procedure.

4.6.1 Moisture Vapor Transmission Rate. ASTM E 96 with temperature and humidity conditions of 73.5 o F (+ 1) o F and 50 (+ 2) percent relative humidity. The linear air flow velocity in the wind tunnel shall be set to yield an upright, „open cup‟ evaporation rate at all test specimen positions of 15000 + 1000 grams per square meter after twenty-four (24) hours (The evaporation rate shall be determined by conducting an upright cup, Procedure B test (see 4.6.1.1), without a test specimen for a period of exactly two (2) hours). For specimen testing using Procedure BW, the „open cup‟ evaporation rate shall be determined in the air stream at a level not more than 3-inch below the position of the inverted cup test specimen.

4.6.1.1 Procedure B, ASTM E 96. The back side of the basic material shall face the water.

The test specimen shall be conditioned, after set-up in the test cup with water level of 3/4-inch

(+ 1/16) inch below the specimen surface, in the wind tunnel for a period of not less than four (4) hours and not more than sixteen (16) hours (Conditioning time of less than four (4) hours may be used provided that equilibrium conditions have be demonstrated to exist within the test sample/sample cup/wind tunnel. In cases of dispute, the conditioning time shall be four (4) hours.) After conditioning, the cup shall be immediately weighed to start the test and again after exactly twenty-four (24) hours to complete the test. Five (5) specimens shall be tested.

4.6.1.2 Procedure BW, ASTM E 96. The back side of the basic material shall face the water.

The test specimen shall be set-up in the test cup with water level of 3/4-inch (+ 1/16) inch below the specimen surface. The cup shall be inverted bringing the water in contact with the back side of the test specimen; the test specimen shall be conditioned in this manner for five (5) minutes.

At the end of the conditioning period, the cup and test specimen shall be examined for evidence of water leakage at cup edges or through holes/pinholes in the test specimen; if a leak occurs, the test specimen shall be discarded and the test cup shall be set up with a new test specimen. The cup shall be immediately weighed and placed in the wind tunnel to start the test and removed and weighed again after exactly two (2) hours to complete the test. Five (5) specimens shall be tested.

4.6.2 Blocking. ASTM D 751, Blocking Resistance at Elevated Temperatures, except that the tests shall be performed at a temperature of 180 o F (+ 2) o F for thirty (30) minutes. Only one

(1) specimen shall be tested. Evaluate the resistance of the specimen to blocking by the scale given below:

1 -- No Blocking. Cloth surfaces are free and separate without any evidence of cohesion or adhesion.

2 -- Trace Blocking. Cloth surfaces show slight cohesion or adhesion.

3 -- Slight Blocking. Cloth surfaces must be lightly peeled to separate.

4 -- Blocking. Cloth surfaces separate with difficulty or coating is removed during separation.

4.6.3 Water permeability. ASTM D 751, Hydrostatic Resistance, Procedure B, Procedure 2 with a fixed hydrostatic head of fifty (50) centimeters applied to the face side of the test specimen for ten (10) minutes. Five (5) specimens shall be tested. The report shall only include measurement for the appearance of water droplets. For basic shell material, leakage is defined as the appearance of one (1) or more droplets of water within the 4-1/2 inch diameter test area.

4.6.3.1 Water permeability after flex at 70

F. One (1) specimen, 8-inches by 12-inches, shall be cut from the sample unit with the 8-inch dimension in the indicated direction (warp or filling, as applicable). The specimen shall be conditioned and flexed as specified in ASTM F 392, except that the specimen shall not be aged, the short edges shall not be heat sealed or otherwise joined, and the specimen shall be flexed for 1500 cycles. Two (2), 6-inch by 8-inch specimens shall be cut from the 8-inch by 12-inch flexed specimen and tested for water permeability in accordance with 4.6.3.

4.6.3.2 Synthetic perspiration test. The specimen, 8-inches, shall be cut and exposed to synthetic perspiration as follows: The synthetic perspiration solution shall be made by combining 3.0 grams sodium chloride, 1.0 gram trypticase soy broth powder, 1.0 gram normal propyl propionate, 0.5 gram of liquid lecithin and 500 milliliters of distilled water. Cover the solution and stir while heating to 50 o C until all ingredients are dissolved. Then, cool the solution to 35 o C, remove cover and dispense it immediately with a pipette or other suitable measuring device. Dispense two (2) milliliters of perspiration solution at 35 o C onto the center of an 8-inch by 1/4-inch glass plate. Place the specimen on the glass plate with the back side contacting the glass. Dispense an additional two (2) milliliters of synthetic perspiration solution onto the center of the specimen. Place a second 8-inch by 8-inch by 1/4-inch glass plate on top of the specimen and then place a 4-pound weight on top of and in the center of the assembly. After sixteen (16) hours, remove the specimen (do not rinse) and air dry the specimen before testing.

4.6.3.3 Physical surface appearance. Conduct twenty (20) laundering and drying cycles in accordance with 4.6.10. Each sample, 48-inches in length by full width, shall be cut in half across the width of the cloth. One half of the sample (24-inches in length) shall be laundered and the remaining half retained as the unlaundered portion for the final evaluation, as necessary.

After each drying cycle, examine both sides of the cloth for changes in physical surface appearance when compared to the unlaundered sample.

4.6.4 Spray rating.

4.6.4.1 Initial. Testing shall be conducted in accordance with AATCC-22.

4.6.4.2 After 5 launderings. Test specimens shall be laundered for five (5) laundering cycles in accordance with 4.6.10 and then tested for spray rating in accordance with 4.6.4.1.

4.6.5 Resistance to organic liquids.

4.6.5.1 Initial. Place a small specimen of the cloth on a smooth horizontal surface, face side

up. Using a pipette or eyedropper, gently deposit one (1) drop of n-tetradecane on the surface of the specimen. After 30-seconds, examine the specimen under light at an angle. Absence of light reflectance at the cloth/drop interface shall be taken as evidence of wetting. Three (3) specimens

(or areas) taken at various locations across the sample unit shall be tested. Evidence of wetting on one (1) or more specimens shall be considered a test failure.

4.6.5.2 After 5 launderings. Test specimens shall be laundered for five (5) laundering cycles in accordance with 4.6.10 and then tested for resistance to organic liquids in accordance with

4.6.5.1.

4.6.6 Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the cloth shall match the standard sample when viewed using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option A or C, with sources simulating artificial daylight D75 illuminant with a color temperature of 7500 (+ 200)°K illumination of 100 (+ 20) foot candles and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent…