GL-PD_14-04_ACU_Coat.pdf

INCH-POUND

GL/PD 14-04

14 October 2014

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

COAT, ARMY COMBAT UNIFORM

This purchase description is approved for use by DLA Troop Support and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense (DoD).

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This Purchase Description covers the requirements for unisex and female combat coats to be worn by Army personnel.

1.2 Classification. The coat will be of the following types, styles, classes and sizes as specified.

1.2.1 Types. Type I - 50/50 Nylon/Cotton Ripstop

Type II - 65/25/10 Rayon/Para-Aramid/Nylon Ripstop Flame Resistant

Type III - Flame Resistant Cloth Ripstop

1.2.2 Styles. Style A - Unisex

Style B - Female

1.2.3 Classes. Class 1 - Untreated

Class 2 - Permethrin Treated

1.2.4 Sizes. The coat sizes will be as follows:

STYLE A. UNISEX SCHEDULE OF SIZES

X-Small Small Medium Large X-Large XX-Large

XX-Short XX-Short XX-Short XX-Short XX-Short ----

X-Short X-Short X-Short X-Short X-Short ----

Short Short Short Short Short ----

Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular

Long Long Long Long Long Long

X-Long X-Long X-Long X-Long X-Long X-Long

---- ---- XX-Long XX-Long XX-Long XX-Long

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: US Army

Natick Research, Development and Engineering Center, Attn: RDNS-SEW-EWC, 15 Kansas

Street, Natick, MA 01760-5019.

AMSC N/A FSC 8415

STYLE B. FEMALE SCHEDULE OF SIZES

30 33 36 39

X Short X Short X Short ----

Short Short Short Short

Regular Regular Regular Regular

---- Long Long Long

---- ---- X Long X Long

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3, 4, or 5 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3, 4, or 5 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL SPECIFICATIONS

V-B-871 - Button, Sewing, Hole and Button Staple (plastic)

FEDERAL STANDARDS

FED-STD-4 - Glossary of Fabric Imperfections

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-Covered

A-A-55126 - Fastener Tape, Hook and Loop, Synthetic

A-A-55195 - Thread, Para-Aramid, Spun, Intermediate Modulus

A-A-55217 - Thread, Aramid, Spun Staple

A-A-55634 - Zippers (Fasteners, Slide Interlocking)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusible

MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use)

MIL-DTL-44411 - Insect Repellent, Permethrin

MIL-DTL-44436 - Cloth, Camouflage Pattern, Wind Resistant Poplin, Nylon/Cotton Blend

MIL-PRF-5038 - Tape, Textile and Webbing, Textile, Reinforcing Nylon

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://assist.dla.mil/ or from the

Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA

19111-5094.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other

Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those specified in the solicitation or contract.

ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AGENCY (EPA)

Federal Insecticide, Fungicide and Rodenticide Act (FIFRA)

(40 CFR Part 162) State Registration of Pesticide Products

Federal Insecticide, Fungicide and Rodenticide Act (FIFRA)

FIFRA as amended by the Food Quality Protection Act of 1996 and the

Pesticide Registration Improvement Act of 2003

EPA Product Performance Test Guidelines

OPPTS 810.370 Insect Repellents For Human Skin and Outdoor Premises

(Copies are available online at http://www.epa.gov/pesticides or from the Environmental

Protection Agency, 1200 Pennsylvania Avenue, N.W., Washington, DC 20460)

FEDERAL ACQUISITION REGULATIONS (FAR)

52.209-4 – First Article Approval – Government Testing

(Copies are available online at http://acquisition.gov/far/index.html or by contacting the

Superintendent of Documents at 202-512-1800.)

PURCHASE DESCRIPTIONS

CO/PD 06-05 Patch and Brassard, Identification, Infrared Retroflective

GL/PD 07-12 Cloth, Flame Resistant

GL/PD 10-08 Patch Kit, Integrated, Flame Resistant (IPK)

(Copies of documents are available through the contracting activity.)

https://assist.dla.mil/ http://www.epa.gov/pesticides http://acquisition.gov/far/index.html

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those specified in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Test Method 81 - pH of the Water-Extract from Wet Processed Textiles

AATCC Test Method 135 - Dimensional Changes of Fabrics After Home Laundering

(Copies of documents are available online at http://www.aatcc.org or from the American

Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC

27709-2215.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes

(Copies are available online at http://www.asq.org or from the American Society for Quality, 600

North Plankinton Avenue, Milwaukee, WI 53203.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D 5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile

Fabrics (Grab Test)

ASTM D 6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of documents are available online at http://www.astm.org or from the ASTM

International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, P.O. Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19426-2959.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

Repeat Insult Patch Test – Modified Draize Procedure Principles and Methods of Toxicology, (fourth edition) A Wallace Hayes (editor), pp 1057 – 1060, 2001

(Copies are available online at http://www.taylorandfrancis.co.uk/ or from Taylor and Francis, 325 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia PA 19106.)

Sears Fabric Defect Replica Scales

(Copies are available from Sears Roebuck and Co. “Fabric Defect Replica Kit” at SHGS Hong

Kong Textile Testing Laboratory, 49/F, Office Tower, Langham Place, 8 Argyle Street, Mongkok, Kowloon, Hong Kong.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

http://www.aatcc.org/ http://www.asq.org/ http://www.astm.org/

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Recycled, recovered or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Materials.

3.3.1 Basic material (Type I only). The basic material for the Type I coat shall be a 50/50 nylon/cotton blend, wind resistant poplin ripstop cloth in a Universal Camouflage Pattern (UCP) conforming to Class 8, or Operation Enduring Freedom Camouflage Pattern (OEF-CP) conforming to Class 11, or Operational Camouflage Pattern (OCP) conforming to Class 14 of

MIL-DTL-44436 as specified (see 6.2).

3.3.1.1 Basic material (Type II only). The basic material for the Type II coat shall be a

65/25/10 Flame Resistant (FR) rayon/para-aramid/nylon blend ripstop cloth in a Universal

Camouflage Pattern (UCP) conforming to GL-PD-07-12 Type I, Class 1, or Operation Enduring

Freedom Camouflage Pattern (OEF-CP) conforming to Type I, Class 2, or Operational

Camouflage Pattern (OCP) conforming to Type I, Class 3 as specified (see 6.2).

3.3.1.2 Basic material (Type III only). The basic material for the Type III coat shall be an

FR ripstop cloth in a Universal Camouflage Pattern (UCP) conforming to GL-PD-07-12 Type III

Class 1, or Operation Enduring Freedom Camouflage Pattern (OEF-CP), conforming to Type III

Class 2, or Operational Camouflage Pattern (OCP), conforming to Type III Class 3, as specified

(see 6.2).

3.3.2 Fusible interlining (all types, styles and classes). The fusible interlining for all Styles shall conform to MIL-C-44296, Type V, VI or VII, style B or C substrate with Class 1

(polyamide) or Class 3 (Polyethylene, high density) adhesive. The fusible shall meet the bonding strength and shrinkage requirements, initial and after three (3) launderings as specified in MIL-C-44296.

3.4 Insect bite protection (Class 2 only). The Class 2 coat shall be treated for insect bite protection. The coat shall be strictly limited to the level specified in 3.4.1 and provide the minimum insect bite protection specified in 3.4.2.

3.4.1 Permethrin - Insect repellent treatment (Class 2 only). Permethrin treatment process and garments will comply with Federal Insecticide, Fungicide and Rodenticide Act (FIFRA) as amended (see 2.2.2). Permethrin concentration in Class 2 coats shall comply with EPA

Toxological Category IV. The Class 2 coat shall have an EPA registered (see 6.4) permethrin insect protection treatment which shall use permethrin in accordance with Type II specified in

MIL-DTL-44411 except that the application for Type II specified in MIL-DTL-44411 (Labels and labeling) shall also be applicable to finished garment. The coat shall be labeled in accordance with 3.8.2.1 and 3.8.2.2. The permethrin finish shall be uniformly applied across the fabric and garment and strictly controlled to ensure that the permethrin concentration level meets the requirements specified below. The treatment level shall provide the percent (%) bite protection specified in 3.4.2. The permethrin treatment shall be durable to repeated laundering.

The permethrin level testing shall be as specified 4.4.2. The permethrin treatment shall not degrade any performance characteristics of the garment or present any latent defects to the cloth or garment. See 6.5.

Type I, Class 2 Type II, Class 2 Type III, Class 2 mg/cm mg/cm mg/cm

Condition Min Max Min Max Min Max

Initial 0.095 0.135 0.087 0.130 0.095 0.140

After 20 Launderings 0.025 0.135 0.025 0.130 0.025 0.140

3.4.1.1 Permethrin garment treatment of camouflage patterns. The mixing of camouflage patterns in the same permethrin treatment garment application is not allowed. Patterns shall be treated separately.

3.4.1.2 Permethrin garment application, finished measurements. Manufacturers shall comply with the finished measurement requirements in 3.12 and compensate for actual fabric shrinkage or growth after the application of garment treatment.

3.4.2 Percent (%) insect bite protection (Class 2 only). Class 2 finished permethrin treated garments shall provide bite protection specified below when assessed by the bite protection testing specified in 4.4.2. Government notification and approval is required initially, and any time there is a change in the permethrin treatment formulation or processing conditions (see

3.13.1).

Type I, Class 2 Type II, Class 2 Type III, Class 2

Condition % Bite Protection % Bite Protection % Bite Protection

Initial >/= 90% >/= 85% >/= 85%

After 20 launderings >/= 90% >/= 80% >/= 80%

After 50 launderings >/= 90% >/= 70% >/= 80%

3.4.3 pH (Class 2 only). The pH value of the water extract of all the finished cloth and garments shall be no lower than 5.0 or higher than 8.5 when tested as specified in 4.4.2.

3.5 Components materials and shade (All types, styles and classes). The component materials for coats shall be made in accordance to paragraphs 3.5.1- 3.5.9. Component materials for the coat are for all types, classes and styles unless otherwise noted. All component shade shall be Foliage Green 504 for UCP uniforms, Tan 499 for OEF-CP, or OCP uniforms with the exception of 3.5.9, Integrated Patch Kit (IPK). IPK shade shall be the camouflage print of the uniform.

3.5.1 Slide fasteners.

3.5.1.1 Coat front slide fastener. The slide fastener shall be a two-way separating, non-reversible, automatic locking slider, Size 5, plastic individual element fastener (IEF) conforming to Type III, Style 13, Class 1 of A-A-55634 except that it shall have a crosswise breaking strength of not less than 100 pounds (average) with no individual reading less than 90 pounds, a minimum single element slippage of 16 pounds, minimum separable pin holding strength of 35 pounds and a minimum slider tab 90 degree pull off strength of 35 pounds when tested as specified in A-A-55634. The pin engagement and disengagement force into the dual sliders shall be a smooth single action without sticking or having to rework pin or sliders. The opening for the slider’s top and bottom pull-tabs shall be a minimum of 5 millimeters length x 7 millimeters width. The length of the slide fastener shall be as follows:

Style A. Unisex slide fastener lengths (inches)

Length All sizes

XX-Short 15

X Short/ Short 16

Regular/Long 17

X-Long/XX-Long 18

NOTE: Unisex slide fastener lengths are coordinated with coat lengths and not coat size.

Style B. Female slide fastener lengths (inches).

Length Size 30 Size 33 Size 36 Size 39

X-Short 15 15 16 16

Short 15 15 16 16

Regular 16 16 17 17

Long 16 16 17 17

X-Long 17 17 18 18

NOTE: Female slide fastener lengths are coordinated with coat lengths and coat size.

3.5.1.2 Upper sleeve pocket slide fastener. The slide fastener for the coat pocket closure shall be in accordance with A-A-55634, Type I, Style 7. The slide fastener shall be plastic individual element Class 1, single slider, Size 5 with 100 pounds minimum cross-wise strength and closed bottom and top stops. The slider pull hole shall be large enough to accommodate thong (pull tab) specified in 3.5.1.3. Slide fastener length shall be a minimum of 6-1/2-inches with a minimum chain opening of 5-1/2-inches from top stop to top of slider set upon bottom stop.

3.5.1.3 Slide fastener thongs. The slide fastener thong (pull tab) for the coat front and the upper sleeve pocket shall be a tape 3/8-inch wide conforming to Type III of MIL-PRF-5038.

The thong shall finish 2 (±1/8) inches in length when folded. To prevent raveling, the ends of the tape shall be either heat cut or enclosed by folding inward. The thong shall be placed through the pull tab (top pull-tab only for coat front), and secured with a vertical bar-tack.

3.5.2 Tape. The nylon tape to cover the identification friend or foe (IFF) material and FR identification marker (Type II and III coat only) shall be 1-inch wide conforming to Type III of

MIL-PRF-5038. The ends of the tape shall be heat cut to prevent raveling.

3.5.3 Fastener tape, hook and loop. The hook fastener tape shall conform to Type II, Class 1 or Class 4 of A-A-55126. The loop fastener tape shall conform to Class 1 or Class 4 of A-A-

55126. The widths shall be as specified for each application throughout this purchase description. The fastener tape, hook and loop, shall be consistent in manufacturer within a garment.

3.5.3.1 Fastener tape, hook and loop use. The use of hook and loop with and without selvage within a garment is allowed (does not need to be consistent within the garment). Hook and loop without selvage shall be heat slit along edges by hook and loop manufacturer only and shall not fray and shall meet the requirements of A-A-55126.

3.5.4 Identification friend or foe (IFF) material. The IFF material shall conform to Type I of

CO/PD-06-05.

3.5.5 Thread (Type I only, all styles and classes). The thread for seaming and stitching for the Type I coat shall conform to Table I. All thread shall be non-staining and the requirements in each Commercial Item Description (CID) shall apply.

TABLE I. Thread requirements, Type I only.

Component area Thread specification Needle thread

1/(Tex size)

Bobbin/

Looper thread

1/(Tex size)

All seaming, stitching and bar-tacking

A-A-50199, Type II 36-45 or 46-60 36-45 or 46-60

Button attachment A-A-50199, Type II 71-105 71-105

Overedge stitching (raw edges) A-A-50199, Type II 31-35 31-35

1/ Needle & Bobbin/Looper shall use same Tex size thread

3.5.6 Thread (Types II and III only, all styles and classes). The thread for seaming and stitching of the Types II and III Flame Resistant coat shall be as specified in Table II. All thread shall be non-staining and the requirements in each CID shall apply.

TABLE II. Thread requirements, Types II and III only.

Component area Thread specification Needle thread 1/

(Tex size)

Bobbin/

Looper thread

1/ (Tex size)

All seaming except small parts A-A-55195, Type I

A-A-55195, Type II

A-A-55217, Type I

70-80

70-80

Safety stitch with top stitch, bar-tack, small parts, (hook/loop, pockets, flaps, collar, front placket, eyelet, top stitching, cuffs, tabs, and hems), IFF material & tab cover, identification marker, labels and slide fastener

A-A-55195, Type I

A-A-55195, Type II

A-A-55217, Type I

50-60

50-60

Overedge/Serge for portions of safety stitch operation for raw edge cover

A-A-55195, Type I

A-A-55195, Type II

A-A-55217, Type I

24-27

24-27

Button attachment A-A-55195, Type I

A-A-55195, Type II

A-A-55217, Type I

50-60

50-60

1/ Needle & Bobbin/Looper shall use same Tex size thread

3.5.7 Gimp. The cotton gimp for reinforcing buttonholes shall conform to A-A-50198, soft or glazed finish, Tex Size 180 or 210.

3.5.8 Buttons. Buttons shall be dull finish, four (4) holes, 30 ligne conforming to V-B-871, Type II, Class D, Style 26. When attached to the coat, the button and thread shall withstand a pull/break of 40 pounds (minimum) when tested as specified in 4.4.2.

3.5.9 Integrated Patch Kit, (IPK) (Types II and III only, all styles and classes). The IPK shall conform to the requirements of GL/PD 10-08. UCP uniforms shall use Class 1, Size R, OEF-CP uniforms shall use Class 2, Size R, or OCP uniforms shall use Class 3, Size R.

3.6 Design. The coat design for Style A-Unisex and Style B-Female has a single-breasted front with a slide fastener (double slider) closure and a secondary hook and loop fastener tape closure; a band collar; long sleeves with cuffs and one (1) button, three (3) buttonholes adjustable cuff tab; and a bi-swing back. The collar has a fusible interlining. The front has two

(2) angled chest pockets with flaps with hook and loop fastener tape closures. Above each chest pocket there is loop tape to accommodate the Name and US Army Tapes. The front placket has a loop tape for the Rank Patch. The coat has two (2) bellow style upper sleeve pockets and includes an eyelet drain-hole and loop fastener tape on the outside of the pocket. Each sleeve pocket has a slide fastener (zipper) closure on the front side (as worn) (see figure 4). The coat sleeves have an elbow reinforcement patch. Both sleeves have an Identification Friend or Foe tab cover that can be opened and closed using hook and loop fastener. The IFF tab cover is centered and sewn onto the sleeve above the upper sleeve pocket. The left sleeve has a two (2) channel pencil pocket. The coat has a double turned and cleaned finished hem. The Type II and

Type III coat has an FR indicator located on the outside of the left sleeve cuff.

3.7 Construction (all types, styles and classes). The construction for coats shall be made in accordance to paragraphs 3.7.1 - 3.7.13. Construction is for all types, styles and classes unless otherwise noted. All garment material edges shall be clean finished, either, turned-in, turned-under or serged unless otherwise indicated. All components with a grain line shall follow the grain line of the basic garment material or as indicated on pattern.

3.7.1 Fastener tape (hook and loop). All widths of hook and loop tape shall be sewn 1/8-inch to 3/16-inch from bound selvage (for fastener tape with selvage) or from tape edge (for fastener tape without selvage) to prevent needle cutting along edges, stitching runoffs or improper fit into automatic sewing equipment. To prevent raveling on fastener tape with selvage, do not sew directly on the selvage. The use of fastener tape that is slit, has split edges, or any splicing of fastener tape is not permitted. Under no circumstances shall any fastener tape be re-stitched for repair purposes. New tape shall be used for repairs to prevent needle cutting, thus offering maximum field life. All fastener tape may be sewn through all layers on coat as indicated on the figures, (see patterns for placement). Tolerance for all lengths shall be (±1/8) inch.

3.7.2 Collar. The collar (see figure 3) shall be interlined with a fusible as specified in 3.3.2.

3.7.3 Front closure. The front closure is a (double slider) slide fastener with a secondary hook and loop tape closure (see figure 1). The secondary closure consists of three (3) pairs of hook and loop fastener tape. The hook portion is on the underside of the front overlapping facing (left side) and is additionally stitched with a box-x stitch. The loop portion is stitched to the front side of the under facing (right side) and is additionally stitched with a box-x stitch and coincides with the hook. The hook and loop fasteners for the front closure shall be 1-inch wide by 1-1/2-inches in length. See pattern for placement.

3.7.3.1 Front facing. As an option the overlapping facing may be fused (see Tables IVA and

IVB).

3.7.4 Upper sleeve pockets. Both upper sleeve pockets shall have a slide fastener.

3.7.4.1 Upper sleeve pocket. The sleeve pocket shall have a bellows at front, back and bottom with a slide fastener opening and eyelet at the bottom right of bellow. The pocket shall finish 5 (± 3/16) inches in width and 7-1/4 (± 3/16) inches in length. Each pocket shall have a 4-inch wide by 6-1/2-inch cut length loop fastener tape sewn on all sides, positioned 3/8-inch from bottom and top of pocket and centered side to side. The loop tape shall be additionally stitched with a crisscrossed-X pattern of stitching (see figure 4). See pattern for pocket loop fastener tape and eyelet placement.

3.7.4.2 Upper sleeve pocket slide fastener. The slide fastener shall be on the forward side of the pocket (as worn) and shall be 6-1/2-inches in length. The slide fastener shall close from bottom to top and provide a minimum opening of 5-1/2-inches.

3.7.4.3 Eyelets. The sewn-in eyelets for the sleeve pocket bellows shall have a 1/4-inch

(± 1/16) inch diameter finished opening.

3.7.4.3 Pencil pocket. The left sleeve shall have a 2-channel pencil pocket above the sleeve cuff. The pocket shall be 2-3/8 (± 1/8) inches wide and have a 3/4-inch double turned cleaned finished hem (see figure 1). The pocket shall two (2) evenly spaced channels (permitted variation within 1/8-inch). See pattern for placement.

3.7.5 Sleeve cuff. The sleeve cuff shall be as specified in the pattern. The main body of the sleeve cuff shall have three (3) buttonholes spaced as per pattern. The sleeve cuff shall have a pointed adjustable tab with one (1) button sewn to the underside for closure adjustment

(see figures 1 and 2). The sleeve tabs shall be 2-1/8-inch (± 1/8) inch wide by 3-1/8 (± 1/8) in length for all sizes.

3.7.5.1 Buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be eyelet-end tapered bar type (eyelet end toward the cuff edge-see figure 2) worked over gimp for the cuff with not less than four (4) tacking stitches at bar end catching the gimp ends (not counting the crossover stitch). The purling shall be on the inside surface. The cut lengths shall be 3/4 to 7/8-inch. The buttonholes shall be clean cut with the stitching securely caught in fabric.

3.7.6 Elbow reinforcement. The coat shall have an elbow reinforcement patch on each sleeve, stitched down on all four (4) sides. See pattern for placement.

3.7.7 Chest pockets and flaps. There shall be two (2) chest pockets with flaps, one (1) on each chest side.

3.7.7.1 Front chest pockets. The chest pockets shall be angled downward/inward toward the front placket facing (see figure 1). The pocket shall finish 6-3/4 (± 1/8) inches in width and have a pocket opening of 6-3/8 (± 1/8) inches between bar-tacks. See Table VI for bar-tack/back-tack requirements. Chest pocket and body of coat grainline shall match. Each pocket shall have a piece of loop fastener tape, 5/8-inch wide by 6-3/4-inches in cut length, sewn onto it. See pattern for loop fastener tape placement.

3.7.7.1.1 Front chest pocket depth (Style A. Unisex only, all types and classes). The finished depth of each pocket for sizes X-Small and Small shall be 3-3/4 (+1/8, -0) inches, Medium, Large, X-Large, and XX-Large shall be 5-1/4 (+1/8, -0) inches.

3.7.7.1.2 Front chest pocket depth (Style B. Female only, all types and classes). The finished depth of each pocket for sizes 30 and 33 shall be 3-3/4 (+1/8, -0) inches, for size 36 shall be 4-3/4 (+1/8, -0) and for size 39 shall be 5-1/4 (+1/8, -0) inches.

3.7.7.2 Chest pocket flaps. The chest pocket flaps shall finish 1-1/2 (± 1/8) inches in width and be of sufficient length to cover the top of the pocket. The top of the folded finished pocket flaps shall finish 1/4-inch from the folded edge of pocket top (see pattern for placement). The underside of each chest pocket flap shall have a piece of hook fastener tape, 5/8-inch wide by 6-

3/4-inches in cut length, sewn onto it for pocket closure. The stitching shall be through the hook tape and both layers of pocket flap (see Figure 1). Chest pocket flap and body of coat grainline shall match.

3.7.8 Coat hem. The coat hem shall finish 5/8 (±1/8) inch wide, double turned and clean finished.

3.7.9 Name tape and U.S. Army tape. Above each chest pocket flap there shall be a piece of loop fastener tape 1-inch by 5-1/4-inches in cut length, sewn on to accommodate the name tape and U.S. Army tape. The loop tape shall be placed horizontal and be 1/8-inch (+1/8, -0) above the top corner of the pocket flap (see figure 1). See pattern for loop fastener tape placement.

Both loop tapes shall be in horizontal alignment with each other when coat is zipped.

3.7.10 Identification Friend or Foe (IFF) configuration. The IFF material shall be on both sleeves. A 1-inch width loop fastener tape finishing 2-3/4-inches in length shall be stitched onto the sleeve base material. A 1-inch width nylon tape finishing 1-1/4 inches in length shall have a

1-inch hook fastener tape finishing 1/2-inches in length when sewn by wrapping the hook fastener tape in half over the edge of the nylon tape. The nylon tape shall be of sufficient length to cover the IFF material when the hook is engaged. See IFF Webbing Template and pattern for placement. The IFF material shall be in accordance with 3.7.10.1.

3.7.10.1 Identification Friend or Foe (IFF) material. The IFF material as specified in 3.5.4 shall finish 3/4-inch wide and 3/4-inch (±1/16-inch) in cut length.

3.7.11 Rank patch. The rank patch shall be a piece of loop fastener tape, 2-inches wide by

2-inches in cut length. See pattern for placement.

3.7.12 Identification FR marker (Types II and III only, all styles and classes). The Types II and III coat shall have a tape FR identification marker (see figure 1) on the left sleeve cuff as worn (see pattern for placement) and shall be visible from the outside when worn. The tape marker shall be clean finished or heat sealed 1-inch (± 1/8) in length. The finished tape identification marker shall be box stitched as specified in Table V. The thread shall be in accordance with the requirements for the Types II and III coat (see 3.5.6).

3.7.13 Integrated Patch Kit (IPK) placement (Types II and III only, all classes and styles).

The Types II and III coat shall have an IPK placed into the finished right upper sleeve pocket, as worn. The IPK shall be placed into the pocket after garment treatment with the longest dimension vertical and shall lie flat after placement in pocket. The pocket slide fastener shall be engaged to prevent IPK from falling out.

3.8 Labels (all types, styles and classes). Labels are for all types, styles and classes unless otherwise noted. All garments shall have a size label and a combination identification/care label sewn into the coat. All garments shall have a Barcode hang tag. Class 2 coats shall have an additional insect protection/identification/care label sewn into the coat and a hang tag. The printing for all labels shall be black. The font size for the inscription of the size label shall be 10 points. The inscription shall have a minimum font size of 8 points for identification/care label and insect protection/identification/care label only. Inscription shall be legible. Sewn in labels and printing shall last the expected life of the coat.

3.8.1 Size label. The size label shall conform to Type VI, Class 2 of MIL-DTL-32075 and shall be sewn on the inside center back approximately 1/2-inch below the neckline. The label shall be sewn on all four (4) sides and the stitching shall not cover the printing. The color of the size labels for the Types I and II coat shall be white or approximate the ground shade of the basic fabric. For the Type III coat only, the color of the size label shall be Urban Gray 501. The size label shall include the information in Table IIIA and Table IIIB for the applicable size:

TABLE IIIA. Style A. Unisex size label.

X-Small - XX-Short

Height: 55 to 59 in.

Chest: Up to 33 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 4050/7484

X-Small - X-Short

Height: 59 to 63 in.

Chest: Up to 33 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 5060/7484

X-Small - Short

Height: 63 to 67 in.

Chest: up to 33 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6070/7484

X-Small - Regular

Height: 67 to 71 in.

Chest: up to 33 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 7080/7484

X-Small - Long

Height: 71 to 75 in

Chest: Up to 33 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 8090/7484

X-Small - X-Long

Height: 75 to 79 in.

Chest: Up to 33 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9000/7484

Small – XX-Short

Height: 55 to 59 in.

Chest: 33 to 37 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 4050/8494

Small – X-Short

Height: 59 to 63 in.

Chest: 33 to 37 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 5060/8494

Small – Short

Height: 63 to 67 in.

Chest: 33 to 37 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6070/8494

Small – Regular

Height: 67 to 71 in.

Chest: 33 to 37 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 7080/8494

Small – Long

Height: 71 to 75 in.

Chest: 33 to 37 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 8090/8494

Small – X-Long

Height: Above 75 in.

Chest: 33 to 37 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9000/8494

Medium – XX-Short

Height: 55 to 59 in.

Chest: 37 to 41 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 4050/9404

Medium – X-Short

Height: 59 to 63 in.

Chest: 37 to 41 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 5060/9404

Medium – Short

Height: 63 to 67 in.

Chest: 37 to 41 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6070/9404

Medium – Regular

Height: 67 to 71 in.

Chest: 37 to 41 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 7080/9404

Medium – Long

Height: 71 to 75 in.

Chest: 37 to 41 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 8090/9404

Medium – X-Long

Height: 75 to 79 in.

Chest: 37 to 41 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9000/9404

TABLE IIIA. Style A. Unisex size label. - Continued

Medium – XX –Long

Height: Above 79 in.

Chest: 37 to 41 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 0010/9404

Large – XX-Short

Height: 55 to 59 in.

Chest: 41 to 45 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 4050/0414

Large – X-Short

Height: 59 to 63 in.

Chest: 41 to 45 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 5060/0414

Large – Short

Height: 63 to 67 in.

Chest: 41 to 45 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6070/0414

Large – Regular

Height: 67 to 71 in.

Chest: 41 to 45 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 7080/0414

Large – Long

Height: 71 to 75 in.

Chest: 41 to 45 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 8090/0414

Large – X-Long

Height: 75 to 79 in.

Chest: 41 to 45 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9000/0414

Large- XX-Long

Height: Above 79 in.

Chest: 41 to 45 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 0010/0414

X-Large – XX-Short

Height: 55 to 59 in.

Chest: 45 to 49 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 4050/1424

X-Large – X-Short

Height: 59 to 63 in.

Chest: 45 to 49 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 5060/1424

X-Large – Short

Height: 63 to 67 in.

Chest: 45 to 49 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6070/1424

X-Large – Regular

Height: 67 to 71 in.

Chest: 45 to 49 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 7080/1424

X-Large – Long

Height: 71 to 75 in.

Chest: 45 to 49 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 8090/1424

X-Large - X-Long

Height: 75 to 79 in.

Chest: 45 to 49 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9000/1424

X-Large - XX-Long

Height: Above 79 in.

Chest: 45 to 49 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 0010/1424

XX-Large - Regular

Height: 67 to 71 in.

Chest: 49 to 53 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 7080/2435

XX-Large - Long

Height: 71 to 75 in.

Chest: 49 to 53 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 8090/2435

XX-Large - X-Long

Height: 75 to 79 in.

Chest: 49 to 53 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9000/2435

XX-Large - XX-Long

Height: Above 79 in.

Chest: 49 to 53 in.

NATO Size: 0010/2435

TABLE IIIB. Style B. Female size label.

30 – X Short

Height: 54 to 58 in.

Chest: 30 to 33 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 4050/7484

33 – X Short

Height: 54 to 58 in.

Chest: 33 to 36 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 4050/8494

36 – X Short

Height: 54 to 58 in.

Chest: 36 to 39 in.

NATO Size: 4050/9404

30 – Short

Height: 58 to 62 in.

Chest: 30 to 33 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 5060/7484

33 – Short

Height: 58 to 62 in.

Chest: 33 to 36 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 5060/8494

36 – Short

Height: 58 to 62 in.

Chest: 36 to 39 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 5060/9404

39 – Short

Height: 58 to 62 in.

Chest: 39 to 42 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 5060/9404

30 – Regular

Height: 62 to 66 in.

Chest: 30 to 33 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6070/7484

33 – Regular

Height: 62 to 66 in.

Chest: 33 to 36 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6070/8494

36 – Regular

Height: 62 to 66 in.

Chest: 36 to 39 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6070/9404

39 – Regular

Height: 62 to 66 in.

Chest: 39 to 42 in.

NATO Size: 6070/9404

33 – Long

Height: 66 to 70 in.

Chest: 33 to 36 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:7080/8494

36 – Long

Height: 66 to 70 in.

Chest: 36 to 39 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 7080/9404

39 – Long

Height: 66 to 70 in.

Chest: 39 to 42 in.

NATO Size: 7080/9404

36 – X Long

Height: 70 to 74 in.

Chest: 36 to 39 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 8090/9404

39 – X Long

Height: 70 to 74 in.

Chest: 39 to 42 in.

NATO Size: 8090/9404

3.8.2 Identification and care label (all types, styles and classes). The combination identification/care label shall conform to Type VI, Class 15 of MIL-DTL-32075 and shall be stitched on inside of coat under the right chest pocket (as worn) vertically or parallel with the pocket angle with the top part of the label facing the top of the coat. The label shall be stitched on all four (4) sides. The stitching shall not penetrate the printing and shall not be visible on coat front. The color of the combination identification and care label shall be white or approximate the ground shade of the basic fabric 3.3.1 and 3.3.1.2.

3.8.2.1 Identification and care label (Type I only, all styles and classes). The Type I label shall include the following information:

This section is intentionally blank

Coat, Army Combat Uniform - Unisex or

Coat, Army Combat Uniform – Female

Contract Number:

Fiber Content:

Contractor Name:

Lot Number 1/

This product meets the manufacturing and performance testing requirements as authorized by the Program

Executive Office – Soldier

USE AND CARE

PRIOR TO LAUNDERING: Empty pockets and remove patches. Close zipper and hook and loop fasteners. Turn inside out. Pre-treat stains with commercially available pre-treatments.

HOME LAUNDERING: Use cold water detergent. Wash in cold water using permanent press cycle. Rinse in cold water. Tumble dry low.

WASHING BY HAND: Use cold water detergent. Wash in cold water. Rinse completely. Never twist or wring dry. Hang dry on a rust-proof hanger. Do not hang dry in direct sunlight.

NOTE: Wash garment separate from other garments. In military field operations, garment may be washed with other garments.

CAUTION:

DO NOT USE BLEACH, BLEACH ALTERNATIVES, FABRIC SOFTENER, OR

STARCH. DO NOT DRY CLEAN OR COMMERCIALLY HOT PRESS. DO NOT

APPLY HEAT OR AN IRON TO ANY HOOK AND LOOP FASTENER.

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

1/ Lot number shall be stamped with indelible black ink prior to shipment.

3.8.2.2 Identification and care label, flame resistant (Type II and III only, all styles and classes). The label for Type II and III shall include the following information:

Coat, Army Combat Uniform - Unisex or

Coat, Army Combat Uniform – Female

FLAME RESISTANT

Contract Number:

Fiber Content:

Contractor Name:

Lot Number 1/

This product meets the manufacturing and performance testing requirements as authorized by the Program

Executive Office – Soldier

USE AND CARE

PRIOR TO LAUNDERING: Empty pockets and remove patches. Close zipper and hook and loop fasteners. Turn inside out. Pre-treat stains with commercially available pre-treatments.

HOME LAUNDERING: Use cold water detergent. Wash in cold water using permanent press cycle. Rinse in cold water. Tumble dry low.

WASHING BY HAND: Use cold water detergent. Wash in cold water. Rinse completely. Never twist or wring dry. Hang dry on a rust-proof hanger. Do not hang dry in direct sunlight.

NOTE: Wash garment separate from other garments. In military field operations, garment may be washed with other garments.

CAUTION:

DO NOT USE BLEACH, BLEACH ALTERNATIVES, FABRIC SOFTENER, OR

STARCH. DO NOT DRY CLEAN OR COMMERCIALLY HOT PRESS. DO NOT

APPLY HEAT OR AN IRON TO ANY HOOK AND LOOP FASTENER.

THIS GARMENT IS FLAME RESISTANT

1/ Lot number shall be stamped with indelible black ink prior to shipment.

3.8.3 Insect protection/identification/care label (Class 2 only, all types and styles). The combination insect protection/identification/care label shall conform to Type VI, Class 15 of

MIL-DTL-32075 and shall be stitched on inside of coat under the left chest pocket (as worn) vertically or parallel with the pocket angle with the top of the label facing the top of the coat.

The label shall include both permanent insect protection and brand labeling information; and shall comply with the approved EPA registration (see 6.4). The label shall be stitched on all four

(4) sides. The stitching shall not penetrate the printing and shall not be visible on coat front.

The color for the insect protection/identification/care label (Class 2) shall be white or approximate the ground shade of the basic fabric. The Class 2 label shall include the following information:

Insect Repellent Brand Name:

INSECT REPELLENT APPAREL

Refer to hangtag for more information

Contractor Name: (Permethrin Applicator Name)

(Brand Name) INSECT REPELLENT APPAREL

EPA REG. NO.:

EPA EST. NO.:

- Do Not Dry Clean

Dry Cleaning removes active ingredient

- Wash separate from other clothing

- Wash garment separate from other garments. In military field operations, garment may be washed with other garments.

- Do Not Re-treat with other permethrin products

- Dispose of garment in trash (Remove IFF tape first)

Repels mosquitoes

Repellency remains effective for 25 washings

ACTIVE INGREDIENT %W/W

Permethrin……………………………..…..0.52%

OTHER INGREDIENTS: (Garment)……99.48%

TOTAL…………………………………100.00%

It is a violation of Federal Law to use this product

In a manner inconsistent with its labeling

3.8.4 Hang tag, insect protection (Class 2 only, all types and styles). Each Class 2 coat shall have an individual paper tag attached to the garment conforming to Type VIII, Class 15 of

MIL-DTL-32075. The color for the hang tag shall be white. The paper tag shall be Swift tacked at center back on inside collar joining seam. The tag shall provide additional insect protection information in accordance with and as required by EPA registration and labeling. The hang tag shall contain the following information:

Insect Repellent Brand Name:

INSECT REPELLENT APPAREL

Contractor Name: - (Applicator of Permethrin)

Contractor Address – (Location of Permethrin Applicator)

(Product Brand Name) - INSECT REPELLENT APPAREL

EPA REG. NO.:

EPA EST. NO.:

* Do Not Dry Clean

Dry Cleaning removes active ingredient

* Wash separate from other clothing

* Wash garment separate from other garments. In military field operations, garment may be washed with other garments.

* Do Not Re-treat with other permethrin products

* Dispose of garment in trash. (Remove IFF tape first)

Do not contaminate water, food or feed by storage or disposal.

Do not reuse clothing/fabric for purposes other than originally intended.

* For protection of exposed skin, use in conjunction with an insecticide registered for direct application to the skin.

Repels mosquitoes

Repellency remains effective for 25 washings

ACTIVE INGREDIENT %W/W

Permethrin ………………...……………..0.52%

OTHER INGREDIENTS: (Garment)…..99.48%

TOTAL………………………………..100.00%

It is a violation of Federal Law to use this product in a manner inconsistent with its labeling.

Retain hangtag for future reference on proper handling of this garment.

THIS TAG NOT TO BE REMOVED EXCEPT BY CUSTOMER

3.8.5 Barcode hang tag (all types, styles and classes). Each coat shall have a white paper barcode hang tag conforming to Type VIII, Class 17 of MIL-DTL-32075. The hang tag shall be

Swift tacked at center back on inside collar joining seam and shall be completely visible on the coat when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and so it causes no damage to the coat. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit National Stock Number (NSN). There shall be a 12 digit

Universal Product Code (UPC) number assigned for all NSNs by the contracting activity. The initials “UPC” must appear beneath the code.

NOTE: The hang tag for insect protection and barcode may be applied jointly with the use of one Swift tack.

3.9 Figures. Figures are furnished for informational purposes only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written document and the figures, the written document shall govern.

3.10 List of pattern parts. The Government shall furnish patterns, which show directional line markings for proper cutting and assembly, and are to be used as a guide for cutting contractor’s working patterns. The Government patterns provide a seam allowance of 1/2-inch for side seams, shoulder seams, and sleeve seams, 3/8-inch allowance for collar and all other seams, except where otherwise specified, and 1/4-inch allowance for pocket flaps. Pockets, pocket flaps, pencil pocket, elbow patches, cuffs, collar, slide fastener, patch loop tape, other hook and loop fastener tape, and bar-tacks shall be located in accordance with marks on patterns and table references. Minor modifications to the pattern are permitted where necessary to accommodate manufacture’s processes to include garment treatments and use of automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the final design, serviceability, appearance or final finished measurements. Table IVA and Table IVB pattern list is provided to insure that the pattern set is complete for all Types and Styles of coats (see 6.2).

TABLE IVA. Style A. Unisex list of pattern parts.

Material Nomenclature Pattern Abbreviation

Cut

Number

Basic

Material

Back PD1404A-BACK 1

Side Back PD1404A-SIDE_BACK 2

Left Front PD1404A-FRONT_LFT 1

Right Front PD1404A-FRONT_RT 1

Top Sleeve PD1404A-TOP_SLEEVE 2

Under Sleeve PD1404A-UNDR_SLEEVE 2

Collar PD1404A-COLLAR 2

Elbow Patch PD1404A-ELBOW_PATCH 2

Sleeve Pocket PD1404A-SLEEVE_PCKT 2

Sleeve Pocket Zipper Facing PD1404A-SLV_PKT_ZIP 2

Right Front Chest Pocket PD1404A-FT_CHST_PKR 1

Left Front Chest Pocket PD1404A-FT_CHST_PKL 1

Right Front Chest Pocket Flap PD1404A-FLP_CHSTPKR 1

Left Front Chest Pocket Flap PD1404A-FLP_CHSTPKL 1

Cuff PD1404A-CUFF 2

Cuff Tab PD1404A-CUFF_TAB 2

Left Pen Pocket PD1404A-LFT_PEN_PKT 1

Fusible

Font Facing Fusible (Optional) PD1404A-FF_FUS-OPT 2

Collar Fusible PD1404A-COLLAR_FUSE 1

Templates IFF Webbing Template PD1404A-IFF_WEB_TEMP 0

TABLE IVB. Style B. Female list of pattern parts.

Material Nomenclature Pattern Abbreviation

Cut

Number

Basic

Material

Back PD1404B-BACK 1

Side Back PD1404B-SIDE_BACK 2

Left Front PD1404B-FRONT_LFT 1

Right Front PD1404B-FRONT_RT 1

Top Sleeve PD1404B-TOP_SLEEVE 2

Under Sleeve PD1404B-UNDR_SLEEVE 2

Collar PD1404B-COLLAR 2

Elbow Patch PD1404B-ELBOW_PATCH 2

Sleeve Pocket PD1404B-SLEEVE_PCKT 2

Sleeve Pocket Zipper Facing PD1404B-SLV_PKT_ZIP 2

Right Front Chest Pocket PD1404B-FT_CHST_PKR 1

Left Front Chest Pocket PD1404B-FT_CHST_PKL 1

Right Front Chest Pocket Flap PD1404B-FLP_CHSTPKR 1

Left Front Chest Pocket Flap PD1404B-FLP_CHSTPKL 1

Cuff PD1404B-CUFF 2

Cuff Tab PD1404B-CUFF_TAB 2

Left Pen Pocket PD1404B-LFT_PEN_PKT 1

Fusible

Font Facing Fusible (Optional) PD1404B-FF_FUS-OPT 2

Collar Fusible PD1404B-COLLAR_FUSE 1

Templates IFF Webbing Template PD1404B-IFF_WEB_TEMP 0

3.11 Configuration. Each coat shall conform to design, appearance (see Figures 1-5), the finished measurements in Table VIIA and VIIB and the construction methods specified in 3.11.1 through 3.11.2, and Tables V and VI in order to maintain configuration compliance.

3.11.1 Seams and stitching. All seams shall be consistent and exhibit a uniform appearance and conform to the ASTM D 6193 seam and stitch types listed in Table V. The backside of seams (inside garment) shall be flat with no protruding seam allowance to create irritation or discomfort. All material edges shall be clean finished, either, turned-in, turned-under or serged.

All pocket flaps shall be serged prior to setting. Needle and bobbin thread tension shall be balanced such that neither is too tight nor too loose relative to each other. The seams for all outside visible stitching shall be sewn with 11 (± 1) stitches per inch. Overedge or pre-hemming shall be 10 (± 2) stitches per inch. Buttons shall be attached with 16 stitches per button.

Buttonholes shall be 54 (±) 2 stitches per inch including tack. All hook and loop tape shall be sewn with 10 (±2) stitches per inch. The IFF material shall be sewn with 8 (± 1) stitches per inch. The sewn eyelets for the bellows pockets shall have a minimum of 16 stitches each with a

3/16 to 1/4-inch diameter finished opening. The width of the bight of stitching shall not be less than 1/16-inch. The eyelet stitching shall have at least four (4) overlapping stitches with the purling on the outside. All stitches per inch and gauge requirements shall be met prior to any applicable garment treatments.

3.11.1.1 Repair of stitch.

3.11.1.2 Repairs of stitching. Repairs of stitching shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks or bobbin run-outs occur during stitching, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2-inch in back of the end of the stitching.

b. Thread breaks or two (2) or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during end item inspection shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start at a minimum of 1/2-inch in back of the defective area and continue a minimum of 1/2-inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching, without damaging the materials, and restitching in the required manner.

NOTE: When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched. The loose ends shall be trimmed with scissors. Caution: Pulling or breaking the loose ends is not allowed.

3.11.1.3 Repairs of type 401 stitching only. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.11.1.1 and 3.11.1.2, except substitute 3/4-inch for 1/2-inch wherever 1/2-inch appears. Repairs to stitch

Type 401 may be accomplished by use of stitching type 301.

3.11.2 Stitching for hook and loop tape. The hook and loop tape shall be sewn with the use of a straight stitch, box stitch, box-X stitch or box stitch with special stitched corners as specified in Table V.

TABLE V. Seam and stitch types.

Seam placement Seam type Gauge Stitch type

Side seams, back sleeve seams, set in sleeves, armhole, shoulder seams

LSc-2

3/16 to 1/4-inch gauge (double lap seam) or 401

Bi-swing seam

Inner seam

Outer seam (pleat)

SSa-2

OSf-2

3/8 to 1/2-inch gauge

3/16 to 1/4-inch gauge

301 and

TABLE V. Seam and stitch types- Continued

Top stitching of pencil pocket, collar, and front edge

OSf-1

1/16 to 1/8-inch from edge

Top stitching of pocket flaps and cuff tabs

OSf-1 3/16 to 1/4-inch gauge 301

Upper sleeve pocket bellows, inside pleat

OSf-1 1/16 to 1/8-inch from edge 301

Attachment of pockets

(When using automatic pocket setting equipment topstitching shall be 1/6, 1/8, or 3/16 gauge)

LSd-1 1/16 to 1/8-inch from edge 301

Setting of pocket flaps

One (1) row fold, then one (1) row stitching on top or

Two (2) rows of stitching on top

Lsbl-2

Lsba-2

1/16 to 1/8-inch from edge

3/16 to 1/4-inch gauge

Attachment of elbow reinforcements

LSd-2 Two (2) rows 3/16 to 1/4-inch apart

Front slide fastener

Placement

Top Stop (location)

Attachment

SSak-2

See pattern for placement of slide fastener teeth from front edge

1/2 (± 1/8) inch from collar seam

Two (2) rows 3/16 to 1/4-inch apart

Top stitching upper sleeve pocket slide fastener

Placement

Top and bottom stop

(location)

Attachment

SSak-2

See pattern for placement of slide fastener teeth from edge

1/2 (± 1/8) inch from seam

Two (2) rows 1/8 to 1/4-inch apart

Bottom hemming EFb-1 1/2 to 3/4-inch wide hem, double turned clean finished, stitching 1/16 to 1/8-inch from hem fold

Setting cuffs LSd-1 1/16 to 1/8-inch from edge 301

Topstitch collar SSa-1 1/16 to 1/8-inch from edge 301

TABLE V. Seam and stitch types - Continued

Front closure hook and loop tape

LSbj-1

Box-X, 1/8 to 3/16-inch from selvage edge

Front Chest hook tape LSbj-1 Box-X, 1/8 to 3/16-inch from

Name Tape, U.S. Army Tape, IFF, Rank Tape and Chest

Pocket loop tape

Box, 1/8 to 3/16-inch from

Sleeve pocket loop tape LSbj-1 selvage edge and Crisscross X

Glint material attachment to sleeve

LSbj-1 Box, 1/8 to 3/16-inch from selvage edge

Hook tape attachment onto IFF tab cover webbing

LSbj-1 1/8 to 3/16-inch from edge (see pattern template)

Top stitch pleat of bi-swing OSf-2 Two (2) rows 3/16 to 1/4-inch gage apart

FR identification marker to left sleeve cuff, visible from outside

(Types II and III only)

Labels LSbj-1 1/8 to 3/16-inch from edge 301

3.11.3 Bar-tacks and back-tacks. To maintain durability and functionality, bar-tacks shall be placed as specified in Table VI. Bar-tacks shall be 1/8 to 3/16-inch wide. Nominal lengths and stitches per tack shall also be as specified in Table VI. Back-tacks shall have two (2) to four (4) rows of stitching.

TABLE VI. Bar-tack and back-tack placement.

Bar-tack or back-tack placement

Size of tack

(inches)

Stitches per tack 1/

# of

Bar-tacks per side or piece

# of

Back-tacks per side or piece

Horizontal Vertical

Chest pocket flaps at top superimposed on topstitching

5/8

X

TABLE VI. Bar-tack and…