Attachment_7-Specifications__KPLH_T4_LensCleaning_2023.pdf

SCOPE OF WORK FOR LENS CLEANING

(TASK 04)

KILAUEA POINT LIGHTHOUSE

The Light House Consultant, LLC

Green Valley, Arizona

CONDITION ASSESSMENT REPORT PREPARED FOR: TYLER FINKLE

CLEANING AND TREATMENT PLAN

FOR THE

KILAUEA LIGHT

2nd ORDER CLASSICAL FRESNEL LENS

SCOPE OF WORK FOR LENS CLEANING PREPARED FOR: USFWS - KILAUEA POINT NTL WILDLIFE REFUGE

TABLE OF CONTENTS

SECTION 01 Introduction:

SECTION 02 Inspection Procedures

Personnel Preparation

Initial Observations

Inspecting the glass prisms

Inspecting the rest of the apparatus

SECTION 03 Dusting and Cleaning

Dusting

Glass cleaning

Ladder safety

Cleaning the bronze

SECTION 04 Emergency First Aid

Glazing

SECTION 05 Summary

Introduction:

Personnel using this manual need to have site specific safety and health orientation training prior to performing any of the procedures described herein. Anyone working on or near the lens should have received instruction from a qualified individual who has had first hand training on the contents of this manual and who fully comprehends its contents.

This manual is designed to assist personnel of the U. S. Fish and Wildlife Service with the periodic inspection and basic maintenance of the Kilauea 2nd Order

Classical Fresnel lens that is in the lantern room of the Kilauea Lighthouse located in the Kilauea National Wildlife Refuge on the island of Kauai, HI. The manual only addresses information that is relative to the basic inspection, cleaning and maintenance functions that are expected to be performed by the staff or their representatives. It must be understood that the procedures outlined in this manual are basic inspection and cleaning jobs that are done periodically to keep the lens in good order. They are not all that may be required from time to time that should only be accomplished by a professional lampist fully trained and experienced in all aspects of work on Classical Fresnel lenses.

The major chapters included here will address general inspection procedures, cleaning of the glass & bronze framework.

The lens was built by Barbier, Benard & Turenne, Ingenieurs Constructeurs in Paris.

Factory records indicate that it was ordered in 1911 and it was installed in the tower in April 1913. The lens is a 2nd Order Bivalve or clamshell. It resembles a clam with 2 symmetrical, opposite faces. The two sides of the lens are made up of very large flash panels and as a result a 2nd order lens of this type will broadcast as bright a light as it’s bigger brother (a 1st Order beehive style) lens. This lens was one of the very last mercury float lenses that the United States purchased.

It should be noted that there is a lamp stand inside the lens that supports a large LED bulb (No Ill effects on lens per lampist). The lamp stand is an impediment to accessing the interior of the lens for proper cleaning and inspection. It is recommended that the lamp stand be removed from the lens and put on display in a more public accessible location for educational purposes.

NOTE:

No part of this manual may be reproduced, transmitted, transcribed, stored in a retrieval system, or translated into any language in any form, by any means, without the prior written permission of James Woodward, The Lighthouse Consultant, LLC, Green Valley, AZ.

The information contained in this manual is specific to the Kilauea 2nd Order Classical Fresnel and should not be used for the inspection or maintenance of any other lens.

Lenses are very individualistic in their construction and applying the information contained herein to another lens could have deleterious effects.

Inspection Procedures:

Personnel Preparation:

Fresnel lenses are extremely fragile machines. Although large, they are constructed of materials that can be adversely affected by small indiscretions. The most innocent contact with rigid objects such as buttons, jewelry etc. can be devastating. So, personal preparation is the first priority of the day to prepare for working on or near the lens.

Personal items that should be removed:

Please take off all jewelry including rings, watches, earrings, bracelets, and necklaces. Remove keys, knives, cell phones, radios, music players or tools from shirt or pant pockets or belts, belt loops or holsters. Remove belts or turn the buckles to the rear. Wear pullover tops such as Tee shirts or sweatshirts or smooth-front coveralls or a cloth apron that does not have buttons, metal zippers or rivets. And finally, take a good look in the mirror. Do not wear a hat or cap that has metal pins on it or large hair clips.

Initial observations:

Whenever the lens is going to be maintained, dusted, cleaned or oiled, take a look around first. It is to be expected that a certain amount of dust and dirt will collect on or around the lens and pedestal. How could it not in a public space? But take a moment to look at the dirt and determine its source. Some of the best indicators that something is amiss with the general health of the lens may be thoughtlessly removed by cleaning before they can be fully evaluated. A light, even coating of dust or particulates is probably not an issue. If, on the other hand, there are small, localized accumulations of particles, they may be a signal that there is a problem.

Prior to performing any dusting or cleaning operations, carefully inspect the upper surfaces of prisms close to the bronze frame members and look for any accumulations of white or orange dust or small pieces or fragments of the litharge that is used as the glazing compound between the glass prisms and the frame members.

Such accumulations indicate that the litharge is losing its integrity and needs stabilization work by a trained individual.

If, after performing the initial inspection of the various surfaces of the apparatus, no unusual accumulations of debris are found continue with the normal dusting and cleaning operations as described in this manual.

Inspecting the glass prisms:

Ideally every 3 to 6 months a qualified individual (See USCG Department of Homeland Security professional lampist standards attached) should inspect the overall soundness of the glass prisms in the individual panels. To accomplish this task safely one inspector and one safety person are required. Inspections should never be attempted alone as the consequences can be damaging.

Always wear Latex or Nitrile gloves when touching the lens. The oils in the skin can be quite destructive to the lens surfaces if it is not properly removed immediately.

This lens has 2 different types of panels. There are 4 dioptric, center flash panels made up of 6 triangular dioptric prisms surrounding a focusing lens and there are 16 surrounding panels with varying numbers of triangular catadioptric prisms depending on the panel’s location in the lens. The center flash panels are made up of 6 individual, nested glass rings surrounding the focusing lens. They are held in place by only a thin layer of glazing compound and a vertical bronze retaining strip that runs vertically on both the inside and outside of each flash panel. The catadioptric lens panels are made up of radiused, triangular catadioptric prisms that are set in heavy, bronze frames and held in place with wooden wedges and glazing compound. In total there are 236 individual glass elements in the lens assembly. (for clarification ,not lantern room or curtain wall).

All of the catadioptric sections of the lens are inspected in the same manner. First, look at each prism closely to determine if any cracks have developed in them. Note:

there are 2 prisms in the lens that are already cracked. If new cracks are observed, bring that to the attention of the responsible individual for further action. Otherwise, continue with the inspection. Lightly tap on each end of each prism where it enters the bronze frame. There should be a solid sound indicating that the prism is well seated. If there is any rattle or vibration the prism is no longer properly seated and will require some attention.

NOTE: The central flash panels require a more careful, thorough and in-depth inspection. The flash panels (bullseyes) are made up of circular and semi-circular individual prisms and one large center dioptric lens. The large 360-degree central lens is one piece and is held in the surrounding glass rings with a very thin layer of glazing compound. The biggest potential problems are with the central lenses. It is not attached to anything other than the 360-degree prism around it. It is fitted in place with adhesive and if that adhesive fails there is nothing to keep the lens in place. The outside edges of the center lenses are tapered inward and if there is ever a failure of the bond they can fall out of, not into the lens. This is why 2 personnel are required for this phase of the inspection.

First, with one person on the outside of the central bullseye lens and holding their gloved hand gently against the surface of the center of the central circular lens the person on the inside of the lens gently runs their fingernails from the top of the bullseye panel to the bottom and then from side to side. Lay the fingernail gently against the glass and then “pull” it across the surface do this. Do not push the end of the nail across the surface, just gently drag it. Extreme care must be taken while performing this inspection. If the center lens has lost its bond, it can fall out without warning. If the bullseye prisms are properly seated the back surface will feel smooth to the fingernail. If the prisms have become dislodged, they will feel “stepped.” If a serious misalignment is discovered, report it immediately as first aid may be required to prevent damage. When performing this part of the inspection remember to not apply more than gentle pressure on the surfaces of the central bullseye lens. When the inside has been determined to be sound, gently tap on the outside of each of the center lens and listen for any rattles that may indicate a joint failure.

The purpose of the vertical bronze retaining strip at the center of each flash panel is to stop glass lens elements from actually falling out but if the individual components become loose, they will vibrate against their neighbors and cause significant edge damage to the flash panel elements.

If first aid is required, strips of 1 ½” Tyvek archival pressure sensitive adhesive tape should be cut to the horizontal, vertical and diagonal dimensions of the panel and applied in an asterisk pattern on both the inside and outside surfaces. Remember to tape the outside face first and then the inside. See “Emergency First Aid.” Note: Only archival Tyvek tape should be used for this. Do not use adhesive, masking or duct tape as these could damage the glass.

Inspecting the rest of the apparatus:

Other than the condition of the glass itself, also observe the condition of the litharge.

Litharge is the white or orange glazing compound that surrounds the glass prisms where they are seated into the bronze frames. After many years this material will undergo a physical change and will lose its structural integrity. At this point the litharge will begin to crack, flake, peel and/or powder. Periodically perform a visual inspection of the litharge in the apparatus. If powder, flakes, or chips of the litharge are seen on surfaces of the lens or ironwork some preventative repair work may be in order. See “Glazing in the Emergency First Aid section.”

Dusting and Cleaning:

Dusting:

The most common cleaning task is dusting. Do not use rags to dust a lens. The appropriate tool is a feather duster that has a wooden or plastic central shaft. Do not use one that has a metal core. The environment of the display space will dictate the frequency of dusting required. Dusting may be needed weekly or monthly or quarterly.

Only local observation can determine the schedule. When dusting is performed, it

Dusting and Cleaning:

should be done slowly, with attention to detail. Do not hold the duster too close to the lens. Only the tips of the feathers need to touch it. The center shaft of the duster should never meet the lens. Starting at the highest prisms in the lens and move around it 360 degrees and then move to the next lower section and follow the same procedure all the way towards the center. Use light strokes that follow the orientation of the prism in the panel.

Glass cleaning:

Glass should only be cleaned when necessary. Unless there is human contact with the lens it should be a relatively rare requirement. When cleaning is necessary use a mixture of Isopropyl alcohol, distilled water and Woolite. The proportions are 3 parts distilled water to 1 part alcohol and 2 drops of Woolite per quart of distilled water.

Use a lint free micro-fiber cloth or blue paper shop towel and spray the cleaner onto the rag or towel (not directly onto the lens). Gently remove any dirt and grime and then polish with a dry lint free cloth or towel. Never apply excessive pressure to any part of the glass prisms and be especially careful when cleaning the center bullseye lenses. Have a safety person on the opposite side when cleaning the inside of the center lenses. Do not rub excessively at the glass-frame interfaces so that the litharge is not damaged by abrasion. (treat litharge as you would LPB and take necessary PPE precaution).

WARNING: There are edge chips on some of the glass elements of this lens. These chips are as sharp as razors and present a serious cutting hazard. Be aware of their locations and do not make direct contact with them. Never place hands in places that cannot be visually inspected first for sharp edges.

Ladder safety:

Dusting and cleaning operations should be planned carefully. Due to the size and shape of the lens some areas are difficult to access. This is especially true near the top of the outside upper areas and in the interior of the lens which is very confining.

Never allow a ladder to touch any of the glass in the lens. Position ladders so that they are clear of the lens but are close enough so that personnel are not over reaching to clean the lens. A safety person should brace the ladder at the floor level for added stability. NEVER lean on or apply pressure to any of the prisms while cleaning. The glass is extremely brittle and will not respond well to excessive pressure applied to its surface. The outside of lens would require a 16-foot-tall extension ladder and the interior will require a 6 foot step ladder. The extension ladder can be set up on the upper gallery deck at 90 degrees to the lens and a good amount of the lens’s surface can be reached. Lean the ladder against the spider legs that go between the outer lantern wall and the spider ring above the lens. Additional access to the upper areas of the lens can reached by turning the ladder 90 degrees, parallel to the outside lantern walls and resting the top of the ladder between two adjacent spider legs. Be very sure that the ladder is not too close to any glass elements of the lens. The upper interior of the lens can be cleaned with the use of a

6-foot step ladder. The interior of the lens is very confining and can cause disorientation or dizziness in some individuals. It is best to try and not look through the prisms. Try to focus only on the surfaces that are being cleaned.

Cleaning the bronze:

The bronze frame members should never be polished. The bronze frame members have developed a chocolate brown patina on their surfaces. This patina is a protective coating that keep the metal from continuing oxidation that would occur if the metal was polished. A shiny metal surface is not natural and if the oxide coating is breached, as with polishing, it will need to go through another oxidation process to reach equilibrium with the surrounding environment.

To keep the bronze frame members, clean of dirt, oil from fingerprints, etc. simply rub the surfaces lightly with a dust free rag that has been moistened (not soaked) in

VM&P (Varnish Makers and Painter) naphtha available at paint and hardware stores.

Emergency first aid:

This term is used to describe response actions that may need to be taken to stabilize a catastrophic failure until a professional repair can be made. Please note that these repairs are only meant to be temporary in nature and should not be considered to be

Emergency First Aid:

permanent solutions to structural failure. Use only the tools and materials recommended below. Under no circumstances should the use of silicone be considered for any reason. Silicone will permanently “poison” the surfaces that it is applied to and proper restoration work will no longer be possible.

As discussed earlier, there are 2 types of panels in the Kilauea lens. They are the catadioptric (surrounding the bullseyes) and the dioptric (central bullseye) panels.

There should be a tool kit readily available that has 2 rolls of 1 ½” archival grade

Tyvek pressure sensitive tape, a linseed oil-calcium carbonate based glazing compound such as “DAP 33” and a small can of mineral spirits. Some flat softwood sticks such tongue depressors or ice cream sticks are very valuable to have on hand, as well.

Glazing:

Central bullseye panels (flash panel) emergency repairs:

Due to the complexity of the structure of the flash panels only emergency immobilization should be considered. As discussed in the inspection section, if any of the bullseye prisms are found to be moving out of alignment, apply 1 ½” wide Tyvek tape in an asterisk pattern on both the outside and inside surfaces of each panel.

Apply the tape to the outside first and then the inside. Each piece of tape should be cut to the dimension of the panel, from one bronze frame to the other. Start by attaching the tape to one side member of the frame and, holding it secure, pull the tape taught and gently smooth it across the surface of the glass. On the outside do not try to follow the contours of the individual prisms. A flat piece of tape is adequate.

After applying all 8 pieces of tape to the outside of the panel repeat the operation on the inside. Once the panel has been stabilized contact an expert to assess the problem and provide a solution.

Surrounding Catadioptric Prisms:

The prisms of these panels are supported by the bronze frame members and held in place with hardwood wedges and litharge. Because of this assembly the prisms are less likely to just fall out, as the bullseye prisms can. The assembly works in the following manner: a prism is set into the frame, wooden wedges are placed around the prism to hold it in place and then litharge (glazing compound) is tooled into the rest of the space around the prism. The wedges hold the glass in place and the litharge prevents the wedges from moving or falling out. In other words, the wedges are there do the work and the litharge is there to fill the holes. The litharge also helps to cushion the ends of the prisms and add rigidity to the whole assembly. Litharge is a glazing material that was made of white or red lead, linseed oil and calcium carbonate. It can present health or safety problems if personnel are exposed to litharge powder or dust. As litharge ages, it becomes brittle. It can chip, flake or powder. In terms of safety, exposure to the dust or powder could present exposures that should be avoided. The best way to deal with powdered litharge is to cover it with a wet towel or cloth and trap the particles. Do not blow on the dust, as that will disperse it around the space.

If it is found that litharge has fallen out a simple, temporary repair will suffice to prevent further damage. Clean out any loose litharge from the area. Use a toothpick or plastic tool to clean the area. Do not use metal tools as they can damage the glass very easily. Do not dig into any sound materials and DO NOT REMOVE ANY

WEDGES. The wedges serve to keep the prisms in focus and are the primary shock absorbers that isolate the glass from damaging vibrations. Then using a flat wooden stick and the glazing compound fill the depression until it is once again flush with the surface of the metal frame. Clean any residue from the frame and glass. Use a rag dampened with mineral spirits to remove excess DAP33 like material. When the glazing material dries, paint the new surface with oil paint. The paint can be applied with an artist’s brush or a Q-tip. The paint will seal the surface from moisture intrusion.

Remember that this is not a permanent repair and a lens expert should be contacted.

Summary:

As a final word I would just like to say that anything dealing with the structure, assembly or maintenance of the Kilauea lens that is not mentioned in this document should be considered to be beyond the scope of this manual and, as such, should be considered to be beyond the capability of the general maintenance provider.

Summary:

ckreiser Highlight Litharge is a glazing material that was made of white or red lead, linseed oil and calcium carbonate.

ckreiser Highlight It can present health or safety problems if personnel are exposed to litharge powder or dust.

If more complex issues are encountered, please contact me at the below address or number. Please remember that a Classical lens is a continually degrading piece of machinery that should be inspected by a lens professional about every 3 years to ensure its future safety and health.

Sincerely, Mr. James Woodward

The Lighthouse Consultant, LLC 816 West Union Bell

Drive Green Valley, AZ

85614

(216) 651-6257

Email: lampist45@hotmail.com

United States Coast Guard Curatorial Program

Professional Lampist Standards

In order to be considered a qualified Coast Guard lampist with the authorization to professionally conserve, restore, repair, treat, disassemble or assemble, any or all components of a Coast Guard-owned classical Fresnel lens, the following standards and requisites must be met:

1. Two years of direct supervised training by a qualified and approved professional lampist or trained industrial equipment conservator with experience in optical glass, metal, wood, or historic lighthouse optical navigational equipment.

2. At least three years of demonstrated full-time experience (or part-time equivalent) of working directly on Fresnel lens conservation, restoration, treatments, repair, assembly and disassembly. Internships will not be counted toward this requirement.

3. Documented continuing education courses (via accredited conservation programs or through the American Institute of Conservation (AIC)) completed with a concentration on materials and treatment methods pertaining to industrial artifacts made of multiple materials and/or Fresnel lenses.

4. Knowledge of and experience in industry standard conservation methods specifically related to historic optical equipment and metals.