Atch 1 - Mens and Womens Cadet Parade Jacket Spec 150.pdf

UNITED STATES AIR FORCE ACADEMY

SPECIFICATION 150

PARADE, JACKET, CADET, MEN’S AND WOMEN’S

17 March 2022

FA700022Q0091

Attachment 1

USAFA CU 150

17 March 2022

JACKET, PARADE, CADET MEN’S AND WOMEN’S

1. SCOPE

1.1. Scope. This specification outlines requirements for the parade jackets worn by male cadets at the United States Air Force Academy, CO.

1.2. Classification. The parade jackets shall be of one type in the following classes.

Class 1: Stock Class 2: Made to Measure – A jacket that is made to the measurements of the cadet and fits properly without the altering of outlets intended for later use.

1.2.1. Lengths and Sizes. These jackets shall be finished in the following sizes as specified:

TABLE I. SCHEDULE OF SIZES

Men’s Women’s Extra Short 33 thru 56 4 thru 26 Short 33 thru 56 4 thru 26 Medium Regular 33 thru 56 4 thru 26 Regular 33 thru 56 4 thru 26 Medium Long 33 thru 56 4 thru 26 Long 33 thru 56 4 thru 26 Extra Long 33 thru 56 4 thru 26 Extra Extra Long 33 thru 56 4 thru 26 Extra Extra Extra Long 33 thru 56 4 thru 26

1. 2.2. Class 2 - Made to Measure. The finished measurements of these jackets will depend upon the result of the cadet’s measurements, which will be furnished by the government.

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS.

2.1. Government Documents

2. 1. 1. Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto cited in the solicitation.

FOUNDATIONAL DOCUMENTS:

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION

A-A-3174 Plastic, Sheet and Strip, Thin Gauge, Polyolefin A-A-50186 Cloth, Buckram, Woven And Nonwoven A-A-50196 Thread, Silk A-A-50198 Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole A-A-52071 Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose (Unbleached, Bleached, or Dyed) A-A-52094 Thread, Cotton A-A-52097 Cloth, Cotton, Wigan

A-A-52105 Cloth, Interlining, Cotton, or Synthetic Warp, and Spun Hair-Wool or Rayon Filling

A-A-52106 Cloth, Twill Or Plain Weave, Polyester And Polyester Blend A-A-55187 Braid, Textile (Flat) A-A-59826 Thread, Nylon

FEDERAL

FED-STD-191 Textile Test Methods V-T-285 Thread, Polyester V-B-871 Button, Sewing Hole, and Button Staple (Plastic)

MILITARY

MIL-B-3461 Buttons, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap MIL-C-3738K Cloth, Elastique, Wool, Type II, Class 1 MIL-C-44296 Cloth, Fusible MIL-P-15064 Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head MIL-DTL-32075 Label, for Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use)

STANDARDS

MILITARY

MIL-STD-129 Marking for Shipment and Storage

ASTM

ASTM-D1974 Box, Shipping, Fiberboard ASTM-D6193 Stitches And Seams

ANSI

ANSI/ASQCZ1.4 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

2. 1. 2 Government Publications. Copies of Specifications, Commercial Item Descriptions, Standards, drawings and other publications required by suppliers in connection with specific procurement functions may be obtained by contacting the ASSIST Online Database, https://assist.dla.mil or by contacting:

Document Automation and Production Service, Building 4/D 700 Robbins Avenue Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.

2. 2 Non-Government Publications. The following documents form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise indicated, the issues of the documents, which are DOD adopted, are those listed in the issue of the DODISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS are the issues of documents cited in the solicitation ().

2. 2. 1 American Society For Testing and Material

Contact:

ASTM 100 Barr Harbor Dr, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, Phone (610) 832-9585

2. 2. 2. The Color Association of the United States

Contact:

Color Association of the United States, Inc.

343 Lexington Avenue New York, NY 10016-0927

2. 2. 3 For American National Standard Institute such as the following

Contact:

ASTM

1819 L Street NW 6th floor Washington, DC, 20036 Phone: 212-642-4900 (customer Service)

2.3. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

2.3.1 Regarding Documents. The documents form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise indicated, the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids shall apply.

3. REQUIREMENTS.

3.1 Samples. Samples may be furnished by the government only for guidance and information to the contractor. Variations from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case this specification shall govern.

3. 2. First Article

3.2.1. First article. When required and before each production is commenced, the contractor shall submit to the contracting officer, for approval, one finished jacket of each gender in the master pattern size, conforming to the requirements of this specification and Component Certificates of Compliance from component suppliers, guaranteeing compliance with all Federal laws and regulations. Contractors are notified that, where articles have been previously furnished and been accepted (within the last 5 years), the requirement for first article approval may be waived. Contractors must have the ability to develop and grade working patterns from first article or prototype garments submitted.

3.2.2. Fabrication and Assembly of the First Article. The first article shall be made by the contractor and shall meet all requirements outlined in this specification. The first article shall use parts and materials, and be assembled in a manner identical to that to be used in production.

3.2.3. Samples, Try-Ons. Try-Ons are furnished by the contractor and are used as a benchmark in the measurement process by the contractor, and as a quality control tool for the ordering/fit of the parade jacket. The government has the option to review the Try-Ons and exclude any that do not conform to the specifications.

3.3 Materials.

3.3.1 Basic Fabric. Shall be cloth, elastique, wool, USAF Academy blue, Shade 500, 18.0 ounces, conforming to Specification MIL-DTL-3738L, dated 31 March 1987.

3.3.2 Lining. The lining shall be minimum 2.2oz 100% polyester complying with class III of A-A-52106.

The color shall be black or a closely matching blue and the minimum weight shall be 2.2 ounces per square yard.

3.3.3. Buttons, Hardware & Fastener

3.3.3.1 Buttons, Metal, Chrome. The buttons for

each side of the front shall be 36-line for men’s and 30-line for women’s and shall conform to Type I, Style 1, Class B (Wings & Star) of Specification MIL- B-3461. The functional buttons, the buttons used with the buttonholes to fasten the coat front closed, shall have a 5/16” (#45) shank. Buttons for the decorative front shall be the short shank flat eye counter-sunk #16. The front buttons shall be evenly spaced and aligned horizontally.

3.3.3.2. Buttons, Plastic, Stayer. The stayer buttons shall be Style 15, 18-line, Type II, Class D, melamine formaldehyde, 2 or 4-hole, conforming to Specification V-B-871. These buttons are for staying the metal buttons except the two stayer/fastening buttons. The color shall approximately match the basic fabric or black.

3.3.3.3. Stayer-Fastening Buttons. There shall be two, Style 20, 34 line stay buttons for staying the top and center metal buttons on the men’s left-front and the women’s right front, Style 20, 30-line. The securing threads shall be wrapped with threads, forming a “thread shank”. The position of these buttons shall coincide with the corresponding buttonholes on decorative fronts for fastening purposes.

3.3.3.4 Belt/Sash Support Hooks. Hooks for supporting the sash shall be of double brass wire, nickel-plated, American Standard wire gage No. 12. The wire shall be formed into a hook shape with an overall length of 1 ¾" to 1 7/8" and a hook length of 1" to 1 1/8" and a throat opening of ¼". The 1 3/4" ends of the wire shall be finished with 3/l6" diameter closed eyelets for fastening hook to side and center back seams of jacket.

3.3.3.5 Belt-Keeper Eyelets. The two metal eyelets for supporting the waist belt, located on the lower jacket front, shall be the metal stay portion only, of commercial pants hook and eye fasteners, stainless steel, 11/16" long x 1/4" wide with a 1/2" opening between the two sewing holes.

3.3.3.6. Hook and Loop Fastener. 1” dark navy blue or black hook and loop fastener tape of good commercial quality shall be used to fasten the front panel bottom edge. One continuous length of loop side fastener shall begin 3/8” from the inside front edge of the left front panel to the inside decorative button line. The space between the hook and loop fastener and the bottom edge of the coat front panels shall be 3/8”. The hook side shall be affixed to the right or inside front panel, also 3/8” from the bottom edge and such that it will precisely catch the loop side during closure.

3.3.4. Interlining/Interfacing. The interlining used for these jackets shall be as specified or equal.

3.3.4.2. Interlining Wigan. The material for interlining sleeve bottoms and bias backing for lining of standing collar shall be cloth, cotton wigan, dark color/black, 3.6 ounces per square yard, conforming to Type II of Specification A-A-52097.

#16 #45

The chrome finish of the buttons, the “short shank”, and “long shank” are depicted here.

Style numbers 16 and 45 are those of OGS Technologies, Waterbury Button CO.

3.3.4.3. Interlining, Collar. The material for interlining the collar shall be cloth, cotton, buckram, double texture, laminated, starch finish, natural or dark color, conforming to the requirements for Type III, of Commercial Item Description, A-A-50186.

3.3.4.3. Construction Tapes. All construction tapes shall be of good commercial quality for the purposes intended.

3.3.4.3.1. Stay Tape. The tape shall be cotton, unbleached, woven and fully shrunk, conforming to Specification A-A-52071. The widths shall be 1/4" for staying armholes and seams and 5/8” for staying front edges, lapel, and bottom of jacket. The manufacturer of the end item shall sponge the tape by immersion in water and drying on a rack or collapsible wheel before the tape is used. The tape shall be preshrunk so that it shall not shrink more than 2.0 percent. The preshrinking process shall not be identified by name or trademark on the tape, the ticket, or the package. Material for the interlining stays shall be twill cloth, black, conforming to Class 2 of specification A-A-52106.

3.3.4.3.2. Fusible Tape. As an option, double-faced fusible tape may be used for the left vent and for anchoring the hanging pockets.

3.3.4.3.3 Padding. Material shall be cloth, cotton, flannel or felt, unbleached, double napped, 4.0 to 5.5 ounces per square yard, texture 38 warp x 34 filling per inch (minimum), breaking strength 30 warp x 25 filling (minimum) and shrinkage shall not exceed 2.0 percent (maximum) in either warp or filling.

3.3.4.4. Interlining, Front Fusible. The fusible material for interlining basic fabric fronts and welt and warp portions of side bodies and back should be light to medium weight, dark in color, suitable for dry cleaning

3.3.4.5. Interlining, Front. The haircloth/interlining shall be dark in color, monofilament 520 denier, conforming to FED-STD-191. The haircloth/interlining for front panels, shall have 30/2 ply cotton warp and haircloth filling, texture 60 warp x 50 filling per inch, shall weigh 6.75 ounces per square yard (minimum) and contain no sizing compounds. The haircloth shall contain no sizing compounds, and shall be dry-cleaned.

3.3.4.6. Canvas. The tailoring canvas for the front panels shall be in a dark cloth, cotton warp and worsted-spun-hair filling, conforming to Type I of Specification A-A-52105.

3.3.5 Collar. The collar shall be a high-standing collar with a white lip cord/piping. It shall have ½” diameter rounded top corners.

3.3.5.1 Collar Closure Hook and Eve. The collar closure shall be a hook and eye system embedded in the vertical seam at the front end of the collar.

3.3.5.2. White Plastic Lip Cord. The white plastic lip cording for the cuff and collar shall be a .15” “cord”, .25” “lip”, heat resistant plastic extrusion capable of withstanding dry cleaning and hot pressing. The binding for the “lip” inside edge of the lip cord shall be made from lining material, approximately 1" wide cut on the bias. The plastic cording shall be of good commercial quality grade. This cord shall be sewn in the top seam of the collar to create the appearance of an inside white collar.

3.3.6. Labels. Each jacket shall have a combination contractor, identification, and care label and a removable paper size ticket with Code 39 bar code.

3.3.6.1. Combination Contractor. Identification and Care Label. The combination label shall be cloth, cotton, permanent-coated, conforming to Type VI, classes 1, 2, 10, and 14 of Specification MIL-DTL- 32075. Each jacket shall be labeled in accordance with the Wool products Labeling Act of 1939. The wool contents must be included in the combination contractor and identification label. The label shall show the following information:

*Applicable data to be inserted by the contractor when labels are printed.

** Applicable data to be stamped in by contractor using permanent-type black ink after labels are printed.

The label shall be 2 1/2” x 2 1/2” in size and shall be sewn on the inside of the jacket on the left front facing for the men’s jacket and inside of the jacket on the right front facing for the women’s jacket (the facing with the buttonholes). The label shall be sewn approximately 6” from the top of the facing and centered from back to front. The label shall be completely sewn on all four sides, not to cover the printing.

3.3.6.2 Removable size/bar code ticket. The removable hard-paper size ticket shall be approximately 2” X 3” and be of regular commercial hard-paper construction. The letters and numbers for the size ticket shall be 1/4” high. Sizes 38 regular and 12 regular shall be expressed as 38R and 12R, etc. The code 39 bar code shall be 1/2” in height and shall reflect the stock number of the garment. For all jackets, the label shall be tacked to the outside, lower part of the left sleeve.

3.3.7. Shoulder Pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to Type III, Class 4 of MIL-P-15064 for the women’s jacket and Type I, Class 4 of MIL-P-15064 for the men’s jacket. The curved edge, back half, shall be over edge stitched through all plies to prevent raveling, or needle punch shoulder pads may be used.

3.3.8 Sleeve Head Pads. The sleeve-head pads shall conform to Type IV of MIL-P-15064. The front part of the sleeve-head pads for the jackets shall be covered with bias-cut canvas that is 4 inches long by 3 inches wide and conforms to Type II of A-A-52105.

3.3.9 Braids.

3.3.9.1. Sleeve Braid. The braid for each sleeve shall be mohair, flat and 1” wide. The color shall be “Midnight”; Cable No. 70090 or Pantone F&H color 19-40070. The braid shall conform to Type I, Class 1, of A-A-55187. In other words the color is a very dark blue. Samples of braid are available upon request.

3.3.9.2. Hanger Braid. The material for the hanger braid shall be cotton, tubular, flat braid conforming to Specification MIL-B-371F, Type III. The braid shall be 1/8" to 3/16" wide. The braid shall be black and shall have good colorfastness to crocking and wet/dry cleaning.

3.3.10. Threads. All threads shall have good colorfastness to wet/dry cleaning and perspiration. Unless otherwise specified herein, the thread for temporary basting shall be commercial cotton or the same thread used seaming the jackets. As an option, a monofilament synthetic thread may be used for the basting operations where the thread is required to be removed. If a monofilament synthetic thread is used, the jackets will subsequently be given a treatment by a dry cleaning agent, in which the monofilament synthetic thread is soluble.

Item Description * Contract Number * Contract Date * Size ** Cadet Name ID Number Squadron Supplier’s Name * Fabric Content * Care Instruction *

3.3.10.1. Thread, Silk. The silk thread for hand felling shall conform to Type III, Class 3, Ticket A or C, two-ply of A-A-50196. The silk thread for machine felling, shall conform to Type I, three ply of A-A-50196.

The silk thread for machine felling/edge stitching shall be black and conform to Type 1, No. A, three-ply of A-A-50196. (Except that the requirement for extractable material shall not apply).

3.3.10.2. Thread, Polyester Core; Cotton, or Polyester Covered. The thread for seaming and stitching the jackets shall conform to Tex 40 of A-A-50199. The colored threads shall be Shade Navy Blue AT, Cable No. 66060 and shall have good colorfastness to wet-dry cleaning, perspiration and light. The thread for topstitching shall be black.

3.3.10.3. Thread, Gimp for Reinforcing Buttonholes. All colored thread shall match the shade of the basic fabric and shall show good colorfastness to light, perspiration and wet/dry cleaning. Tests shall be performed as specified in Specifications A-A-52094 and A-A-50196B, as applicable.

3.3.10.4. Thread, Nylon. The nylon thread, if used for padding the lapel and bridle, shall conform to Type III, letter size, 00 of A-A-59826. The nylon thread used for hand felling shall conform to Type IV, Sizes A and C, two-ply.

3.3.10.5. Color and Colorfastness. All colored thread shall match the shade of the basic fabric and shall show good colorfastness to light, perspiration and wet/dry cleaning. Tests shall be performed as specified in Specifications A-A-52094 and A-A-50196B, as applicable.

3.4 Design. The design of the jacket shall be as described and depicted in this specification, with all components in accordance with USAF Academy specifications. The jacket is twelve-button and double-breasted. Ii has a high- standing collar with a hook and eye closure.

The men’s is a two-front panel configuration. The women’s is a four-front panel design. Both have two side panels, two side back panels, and two center back panels. The collar for each is 1-1/2” high, and trimmed with white plastic lip-cord. The interlining for the collar shall be buckram. The left end of the collar has the eye sewn on it; the right collar end has the hook. The collar has rounded corners with a ½" radius. The collar tapers from bottom to top. The sleeves shall be trimmed with braid 3" from the hem line of the sleeve. The hemline of the sleeves shall be trimmed with white plastic lip-cord. The ends of the plastic lip-cord shall be tucked into the sleeve outseam, the bulk trimmed out. Two shoulder-board loops shall be placed in the proper position on each shoulder so that the shoulder boards are in the center of the shoulder from front to back. The outside edge of shoulder boards shall be even with the outside edge of the shoulder seams. The buttonholes for front of jacket shall be the eyelet-end, square-bar, cut-first type, reinforced with gimp with the stitching securely caught in the fabric and the purling finishing to the outside.

The ends of the buttonholes shall be bartacked the width of the bar section, catching ends of thread and gimp with the gimp pulled through to the underside of buttonhole.

3.5. Patterns. One standard/master pattern shall be furnished upon request to the contractor by USAFA.

The contractor shall grade the pattern and develop the necessary working patterns.

3.5.1. Pattern Parts. The component parts of the jackets shall be cut from materials as specified by the pattern.

3.5.2. Seam Allowances. During the grading process, the contractor shall grade to allow a seam allowances for the following pieces: 1/2" on the front panels, 1" on center-back shell and lining seam, 1" on one side of back panel on shell and lining seam, 1" on both sides of side panel shell and lining seam, 1" seam allowance on side of front piece shell and lining, 3/8" allowance at center front shell and lining, 1" seam allowance on back, under sleeve shell and liner, and 3/8" seam allowance on top of sleeve shell and lining. The sleeve shall have a 2 ¼-inch turn-up, on both sleeve shell and lining. All hems shall have ½" seam allowance, except hems located at back and side panels to include shell and lining. All other seam allowances on the parade jacket shall have a 3/8-inch seam allowance unless otherwise specified herein.

3.5.3. Pattern Changes. All approved pattern changes due to ideas adopted by the USAFA Uniform Board shall be forwarded to 10LRS/LGRCU. The Government furnished master pattern and approved changes shall be returned to 10LRS/LGRCU, USAF Academy, Colorado Springs CO 80840-8210, prior to the contract’s last shipment being received by USAFA.

3.6. Construction. The jackets shall be constructed in accordance with the Table of Operations herein;

however, the manufacturer is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed therein.

Additional pressing, basting, or holding stitching to facilitate manufacture may be used, provided the thread is removed or does not show on the finished jackets. Manufacturer shall supply a step-by-step description of his operating procedure.

3.6.1. Stitches & Seams. Stitch, and seam types specified in Table II shall conform to ASTM-D6193.

Wherever two or more seam or stitch types are specified for the same operation, any one of them may be used. The ends of all seams and stitching produced with Stitch Type 301, if not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be back stitched not less than 1/4” Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of break 1/2” to 1”. The stitches per inch specified herein shall be interpreted to be the minimum and the maximum permitted.

3.6.1.1. Top and Edge Stitching. Dark blue polyester thread i.e. A-A-50199 shall be used for flap stitching, pocket setting and edge stitching. However, one kind of thread shall be used consistently throughout during the top and stitching operations.

3.6.1.2. Bartacks. Bartacks shall be of appropriate length for the task and be free from thread breaks and loose stitching.

3.6.2. Shade Markings. The component parts of the jacket shall be shade marked to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of shade marking may be used except the following:

(1) Corrosive metal fastening devices.

(2) No metal fastening devices shall be used on the lining.

(3) Sew-on shade tickets.

(4) Adhesive-type tickets which result in discoloration of the fabric, or leaves adhesive on fabric upon removal of tickets.

NOTE: The use of ink pad numbering or machine rubber stamp or pencil is allowed, provided the numbering does not show on the outside/visible parts of the garment, and wherever possible, is covered by the seam allowance.

3.6.3 Use of Automated Apparel Equipment. Automated apparel equipment may be used to perform any of the sewing operations, providing that the seam and stitch type are as specified and the finished component conforms to the required configuration.

3.7. Workmanship. The finished jackets shall conform to the quality and grade of product established by this specification, or comparable construction. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable Acceptable Quality Levels.

3.7.1. Finished Measurements. The finished measurements of the jackets shall conform to Table IV for Class 1, and to the made to measure ticket for Class 2.

3.7.2 Pressing. Unless otherwise specified herein, all pressing shall be accomplished by heated pressing iron or machine. Pressing shall not damage the garment.

TABLE II - MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

No DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching

Type Stitches

Thread

Top Bottom

1. Cutting of Materials:

a. The fabric shall be spread right side up and the next ply shall be right side down, face to face.

The spread of cloth shall be not more than 80 single plies, or 40 coats high.

b. The material shall be carefully laid up in uniform widths and lengths and care shall be taken in spreading the material so that the layers are not stretched or pulled and so that one side of the lay is even. Each component part in the top layer of the main lay shall be marked with the size of the garment.

c. The jackets shall be cut in strict accordance with patterns, which shall show size, shape, directional lines for cutting and proper assembling of all parts. Perforated paper markers are prohibited on the elastique cloth.

d. All component parts of the jacket shall be cut out of one piece of material.

e. Cut neck darts as marked on the pattern

f. The top collar shall be cut across the width of the material.

2. Cut Lining:

a. The cloth lining for the body of the jacket and sleeves shall be cut in the direction of the warp and in strict accordance with the approved pattern. The sleeve linings may be cut from ends.

b. When sleeve linings are cut from ends the parts shall match and the sleeves shall match each other.

c. Each component part in the top layer of the main lay shall be marked with the size of the garment.

3. Cut Trimmings:

a. The canvas interlinings for jacket fronts shall be cut in the direction of the warp.

b. The haircloth for the jacket fronts shall be cut in the direction of the warp.

c. The twill cloth for the armhole, shoulder, front interlining stays, underarm seam at lower part of armhole and for covering back edge of haircloth chest piece shall be cut on the bias. The twill cloth for reinforcing buttons and buttonholes shall be cut in the direction of the warp. The twill cloth for taping the back of the neck shall be cut across the width of the cloth.

d. The wigan for the sleeve bottoms shall be cut on the bias.

e. The flannel padding for the coat fronts shall be cut in the direction of the warp.

f. The buckram for the standing collar shall be cut across the width of the cloth.

No DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching

Type Stitches

Thread

Top Bottom

4. Replacement of Damaged Parts:

a. The contractor shall replace at time of cutting any parts containing broken or missing threads leaving holes, dye streaks termed as “barre” ASTM 3990, bowed filling, or other weakening defects such as multiple flats and loose slubs likely to develop into a hole.

b. Replace any parts damaged during the manufacturing process by needle chew, scissors, knife cuts, tears, mended holes, or burns which may be expected to develop into holes.

5. Shade Marking:

a. Shade mark all component parts of the jacket.

b. The numbering mark shall at all times start from the same position for all parts. For example, if the first layer of fabric number 1 is used for the top layer then the top and the next layer below, facing the top layer shall be number 1 for all pieces.

6. Make Interlining for Fronts:

a. For the canvas front piece: on shoulder dart, trim darts away along dart sew line.

Seam wedge piece of canvas underling to interlining at the trimmed shoulder dart area. Stitch edges of dart to underlining canvas. Canvas wedge piece shall be on the underneath side of interlining.

304 4-8 70/2 70/2

b. On both canvas interlining and haircloth fronts: trim darts away along dart sew line, of the neck darts, waist dart and lower edge of waist dart. Bring cut edges together, center a strip of the twill-cloth stay piece to the edges, and stitch securely.

c. For the haircloth front piece on shoulder dart: trim darts away along dart sew line.

Seam wedge piece of haircloth underling to interlining at the trimmed shoulder dart area. Stitch edges of dart to underlining haircloth. The haircloth wedge piece shall be on the underneath side of interlining.

d. Position the haircloth front piece and the haircloth support shoulder piece on front of the canvas interlining using marks on the patterns. Stitch to the front canvas interlining the haircloth pieces. Stitch the front and bottom edges. Wedge pieces on

304 4-8 70/2 70/2

No DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching

Type Stitches

Thread

Top Bottom the canvas interlining and haircloth front piece shall finish on the inside between the two pieces.

e. Place an additional row of zigzag stitching vertically through center of haircloth front piece.

f. Position flannel padding on back of chest piece and attach by quilting the flannel padding to the back of the chest piece.

Quilt all pieces using rows of stitching 3/8 to 3/4 inch apart. Haircloth front piece shall finish the same as the canvas interlining except the haircloth shall be 1" to 1 1/2" less at back edge towards the side seam. Shoulder portion of chest piece shall be left open to accommodate the shoulder pad operation.

g. Zigzag stitch the back edge of a strip of twill cloth to front of interlining for reinforcing buttons and buttonholes. The strip shall be 3 (+ 1/4 inches wide). The strip of twill cloth shall be parallel to the front piece and extending 1/4 inch beyond front edge of the flannel-padded side.

7. Mark Fronts:

a. Mark Fronts: The size of the coat front shall be legibly stamped with indelible black ink on the lower end of each left and right front. The lettering shall not be less than 1/2" in height. The size marking shall include AFA with numerical size, followed by the letter S for Short, R for Regular or L for Long. Example: AFA 38R.

8. Make Lower Body Stay (Corset):

All the back panels and fronts shall be fused. The back panel shall be fused from bottom edge to the top edge a total of 7" long. The front panels shall fuse from bottom to top, completely.

9. Make Body of Jacket:

No DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching

Type Stitches

Thread

Top Bottom

a. Stitch the darts sew lines on the fronts with a 1/4" seam allowance.

301 SSa-1 12-14 A A

b. Stitch side bodies to the fronts at underarm seam with a 1" seam allowance.

c. Stitch back, side bodies at side seam with a 1" seam allowance.

d. Stitch back, side bodies to center back pieces with a 3/8" seam allowance.

e. Stitch center back bodies with a 1" seam allowance.

f. A strip of bias cut twill cloth shall be stitched on each front along shoulder seam 1" to 1 1/2" from neck to 1/2" to 3/4" from armholes.

301 SSa-1 8-10 A A

g. Stitch bias cut twill cloth 5/8" wide, and not less than 4-1/2" long strip on front of armhole seam line, 3/8" to 3/4" down from shoulder.

h. Stitch a 1/4" tape on armhole from side seam to within 1/2" of underarm seam.

i. Stitch a 1/4" tape on armhole from 1/2" at underarm seam to 1" above notch on fronts.

j. Stitch a ¼ " tape to back of armhole starting at the side seam to within 3/4" from shoulder seam holding tape taut to draw up material.

k. Seam 5/8" wide strip of cross cut twill-cloth tape across top of neck at back extending from shoulder seam to shoulder seam across center seam.

l. Stitch 1/4" tape along neck from shoulder seam to collar notch at step.

m. Stitch 1/4" tape to seam allowance of back parts extending 3/4" to 1" from armhole down side body joining seam for 7 inches.

301 SSa-1 8-10 A A

No DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching

Type Stitches

Thread

Top Bottom

n. All armhole and neck tapes shall be held taut and be sewn flat.

10. Press Front Darts and Armholes:

a. Press slashed front darts, slashed waist darts, side seam allowance and underarm seam allowance open with a heated iron.

Press armhole tapes flat.

b. Press fronts individually on a breast-pressing machine keeping the fronts and front darts straight.

11. Baste Fronts to Interlining:

a. Spread and smooth out fronts on the interlining which shall extend beyond the shoulders and armhole

b. Baste interlining to fronts with first row of basting from below the shoulder point, through the center of the jacket, following in from of the waist dart, down to bottom of jacket. Front of jacket must be continually smoothed out.

301 or hand

Hopper

c. Tack front darts to the interlining, and tack front seams to interlining.

301 or

Hopper 3-4

d. Baste second row of basting across shoulder allowing room for setting of shoulder pads. Baste around armhole and down side edge of interlining to bottom of jacket.

301 or

Hopper 3-4

e. Place a row of basting 1" to 1-1/2" in front of the button line basting.

301 or

12. Press fronts and Interlinings:

Press the fronts individually on right and left breast, steam pressing machines.

A A

13. Measure Jacket Length and Shape Fronts:

a. Measure jacket to exact length needed.

No DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching

Type Stitches

Thread

Top Bottom

b. Mark and trim the turn-up at bottom of jacket.

c. Place step shaper on top of the fronts.

Mark and trim steps. Mark and trim fronts.

d. Trim canvas from step, front edges, and trim the canvas across the bottom.

14. Make Linings and Inside: A A

a. Stitch lining bodies together. Stitch side bodies of lining to front lining. Stitch side body lining to back side body lining. Stitch back side body to center back lining. Stitch front lining to facings. All seam allowances required by this specification shall be followed.

b. Press the inside seam allowances on lining towards center back.

O

A

c. Sew contractor's label inside the facing, between the two buttonholes 3" from the side edge and 3" from the top edge. For female cadets the label shall be stitched to the left front facing, and for male cadets the label shall be stitched to the right front facing. All four sides of the label shall be stitched closed.

15. Baste Facings to Jacket:

Baste facing to the jacket, basting fullness in the chest. Baste facing taut across the bottom.

301 or hand

1" to 2" Long or hopper

16. Join Facings and Fronts With Tape:

a. Stitch the facing and front together.

Stitch starting at the collar notch, located in the area of the shoulder seam. Stitch across the collar area, to front piece corner edges and down the front to the bottom edge of the jacket. During this operation, a 5/8" wide stay tape, positioned on the interlining side of fronts, shall be sewn for stability.

301 SSd-1 12-14 A A

No DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching

Type Stitches

Thread

Top Bottom

b. The 5/8" tape shall extend from collar notch across the top of the lapel, down fronts and completely around the bottom of jacket. Sew tape with normal tension along curve of collar with slight tension on front edge of jacket.

c. Fell inside edge of tape to coat front interlining.

103 or Hand

SSm-1 4-6 O A

17. Press Front and Pull Bastings:

a. Press the edges flat.

b. Pull out the facing bastings.

c. Press edges open.

d. Trim excess material around the corners and edges fronts.

e. Smooth and hand press out the corners and bottom.

18. Baste Edges: Basting edges of front shall keep the front piece and facing area from distortion and or misaligning during future operations.

a. Work out corners and baste the edges of the front piece and facing. Seam edges shall not expose when the jacket is finished.

101 SSa-1 4-6

b. Place second basting on right sides and edges approximately 1" in from the first basting.

Hand or

c. Smooth out front and place another basting in the center of the facing, starting at the bottom of the jacket to the top of the facing, working in the facing and placing the fullness in the chest area.

Button-

Hole

d. Baste along the back edge of the facing. Hand or

21 per button-hole

50-3 70-2

No DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching

Type Stitches

Thread

Top Bottom

e. Turn lining back and tack facing to interlining and back bottom turn-up to interlining.

101 Button-

19. Baste Lining:

a. Smooth out the lining and begin basting lining at the left front at shoulder area.

Continue basting around the armhole to side seam.

Hand or

1" to 2" Long or

b. Baste down along side seam to approximately 3" away from bottom turn-up.

c. Smooth out the lining and begin basting lining at the right front armhole area.

Continue basting around the armhole to side seam.

d. Smooth out the lining and begin basting lining at the left front armhole area.

Continue basting around the armhole to side seam.

e. Baste down along side seam to approximately 3" away from bottom turn-up.

f. Smooth out lining on back. Form a pleat by folding a one-inch fold at back center seam. Baste the pleat along center seam.

g. Baste right and left back armholes, starting at shoulder down to underarm area.

h. Leave excess lining at bottom, for future lengthening. Turn under the lining and baste to the jacket along the bottom edge of turn-up. For body movement, folded edge of the lining shall finish I approximately 1/2" above the bottom edge of the jacket.

NOTE: The lining of the jacket shall allow for body movement at center back, above and below the waistline, bust/chest area, No DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching

Type Stitches

Thread

Top Bottom hem edges of the sleeves, and hem of garment, during inspection.

i. Turn coat and trim away excess lining around the armhole, shoulders and collar, leaving the proper seam allowance at collar.

20. Fell Lining:

Blind stitch the lining to the bottom turn-up.

Stitches shall not show through to the outside of the jacket.

301 EFc-1 4-6 O O

21. Make Shoulder Board Loops:

a. There shall be two loops on each shoulder made from the elastique to support shoulder boards. A strip of elastique shall be folded to the center so that the edges overlap and are double stitched 3/16" to 1/4" from the edges with a covering stitch on the underside. Loops will finish 3/8" + 1/16" wide.

406 EFh-1 12-14 A A

b. The front end of the loop shall be turned under prior to stitching onto the jacket.

The back end shall be stitched in with the shoulder seam.

c. The first loop on each shoulder shall finish 1 3/8" + 1/16" long. The loop’s armhole-seam edge shall be located 1" from the armhole seam. Opening of the first loop shall be 1 1/4" and the second 1”.

d. The second loop on each shoulder shall finish 1 1/8" + 1/16" long. The neck-hole-seam edge of the second loop shall be 3- 1/4" + 1/16" from first loop’s armhole-seam edge. The total distance from the neck-hole-seam edge of the second loop and the armhole-seam edge of the first loop shall not be more than 3 1/4" + 1/16".

Opening of the second loop shall be 1" + 1/16". See Figure #7.

22. Join Shoulders:

No DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching

Type Stitches

Thread

Top Bottom

Join shoulder seams with a 3/8" seam allowance working in fullness on the back of armholes between notches. Catch ends of shoulder board loops in the stitching process.

23. Press Shoulder Seams:

a. Press seam open with a heated hand iron, or use a pressing machine over suitable block.

b. Press ends of shoulder board loops toward the front.

24. Baste Part of Shoulder.

a. Baste the upper portion of shoulder to interlining at the collar area.

Hand or

Hopper 2-3 A A

b. Baste lining at shoulders. Fold back lining and baste on shoulder seam, baste across back, and baste lining on the other shoulder. Approximately 2" of lining shall be basted on both shoulders.

25. Make Collar:

a. The component parts of the collar consist of the basic fabric, buckram, twill-cloth lining and plastic lip-cord piping.

b. The buckram may be cut by hand, by machine, or a die cutting method may be used. The shape of the cut buckram shall be according to the collar pattern. The width of the buckram shall be wide enough to insure that the width of the finished collar is 1-½" without any tolerance. The length of the finished collar shall conform to the requirement of the measurement taken from the cadet, and the buckram shall be long enough to fit smoothly into the collar.

c. The collar basic fabric, the twill cloth interlining, and the lining shall be cut large enough to allow for the required seam

No DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching

Type Stitches

d. Stitch on the right side of the basic fabric the lip-cord piping starting at one end of the collar, around the corner, on top of the collar, and around the other corner. Allow for 1/2" seam allowance.

e. Stitch the bias cut twill cloth interlining to the back of the buckram collar piece. Trim twill cloth to the size of the buckram collar piece. Stitch on the other side of the buckram the other piece of bias cut twill cloth.

f. Place the trimmed edge of the previously attached interlining/buckram on wrong side of the basic fabric of the back collar. The edge of the interlining/buckram must be placed near the collar seam to allow for a 1/2" seam allowance. The plastic binding, the basic fabric, and twill cloth lining shall be stitched along with the twill cloth layers.

g. Trim away excessive fabric at the curve of the collar and notch the collar, the piping and interlining. Approximately five notches are required around the curve to insure a smooth collar when the collar is turned.

Notch edge of plastic piping along the complete collar.

h. Turn collar and press collar edges smooth and straight.

i. Stitch the lower edge of the buckram to the twill-cloth interlining approximately 3/8" away from the edge of the buckram. The twill-cloth interlining shall finish smooth, without puckering or twisting.

j. Top stitch the edge of the collar along the lip-cord piping with 1/16" stitch. During the stitching operation place the lining under the collar and it shall be caught in the collar stitching. The lining shall not be sewn to the ends of the collar. The end of the lining shall be finished by hand when the hook and eye is attached to the collar (see figure 1 & 2).

Hand

SSa-1 12-14 A A

No DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching

Type Stitches

NOTE: The finished dimension of the collar shall not include the plastic piping. The measurement of the collar is taken along the lower edge, from one end to the other end of the collar. When the collar is on the jacket it is measured along the neckline from one end to the other.

26. Press the top Collar:

Press the collar and lining smooth and flat.

27. Sew Top Collar to Jacket:

a. Mark the collar stand around neck of the jacket from the front neck dart.

b. Sew collar to jacket. Place the collar at the edge of the neckline and sew the collar to the front of the jacket. Sew approximately 2" and stop. Notch the collar and the jacket approximately 1" away from the edge of the collar, notch to the stitching. Sew and notch the other end of the collar.

c. Continue stitching the collar to the jacket. Start sewing from the notch and catching through the forepart, the interlining and the facing, and continue stitching across the back, stopping near the notch at the other end of the collar. The machine stitch should be as close as possible to the buckram but the buckram shall not be caught in the stitching.

d. The notched portion of the collar shall be placed down into the front of the jacket between the interlining and the facing.

28. Sew on Collar Closure Hook and Eye:

a. Tack securely one eye to the left end of collar. The stitches shall need to go through the holes and around to the front of eye, just above the hole, to prevent the eye from pulling forward. The slanted end of the eye shall be towards inside of jacket.

Hand

No DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching

Type Stitches

b. Tack securely one hook to the right end of collar. Stitches to go through the holes and across the underside of the hook to prevent pulling forward. A heavy button thread is recommended for this operation.

c. The hook and eye shall be spaced so that the collar shall close correctly and hook and eyes are not visible see figure 5.

d. The edge of the facing shall be hand tacked to the collar interlining. The tacking shall continue to the other end of the collar.

The edge of the facing, the interlining and the forepart of the jacket should be tacked to the interlining of the collar.

e. Baste the lining around the ends of the collar and fold and baste the lining along the neck seam, covering the seam with the lining.

301 or

f. Fell the lining around the edge and bottom of the collar. This operation shall be neatly and securely done, covering the hook and eye and concealing any raw edges at the end of the collar.

29. Press Edges:

Press edges and bottom of jacket firm and solid.

30. Make Buttonholes on Front:

a. Mark the location of 6 buttonholes on the left front as indicated by the patterns.

The bottom buttonhole shall be 3 1/2" above the bottom edge of left front and the top buttonhole shall be 7/8" below top edge of left front. The remaining buttonholes shall be equally spaced between the top and bottom buttonholes.

b. Mark the location of two buttonholes on the right front to coincide with the top and fourth buttons on the left front.

No DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching

Type Stitches

Thread

Top Bottom

c. The first buttonhole eyelet shall be cut with the inside edge of the eyelet 7/8" from the front edge of the jacket. The cut shall be a square-bar horizontal type buttonhole at each of the 6 marks on the left front to fit a 36-line button.

Button-hole

Machine

46-48 per buttonh ole not includin g bartack

F B

d. The bartack shall catch thread and gimp with the gimp pullet through to underside.

The bar tacking shall be a separate operation from buttonhole making. The purling shall finish on the outside of the fronts.

e. Securely bartack the ends of each buttonhole and trim the ends of the gimp.

Bartack 21 per tack

31. Make Sleeves:

a. Prepare the plastic lip-cord piping by sewing a bias binding to the piping. The bias lining shall finish as close as possible to the lip-cord of the plastic piping.

b. Join the forearm seam of the sleeve with

3/8"seam allowance, matching the notches and distributing the fullness of the under sleeve between the notches. The seam allowance shall be 1" in back of under sleeve outlet.

c. Press the forearm seam allowances open. Spread the under sleeve flat on the pressing table, maintaining the curvature of the sleeve. Press the seam open. Hold the top sleeve short between the notches of the sleeve.

d. Mark the bottom of the sleeve. Measure the length of the sleeve according to the requirement of the cadet measurements and mark the bottom sleeve turn-up.

e. Measure 3" above the mark of the sleeve turn-up, and mark sleeve for sewing of sleeve braid. The sleeve braid shall finish 3" + 1/8" above the sleeve turn-up.

No DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching

Type Stitches

Thread

Top Bottom

f. Place wrong side of sleeve, place sleeve interlining. The interlining shall be placed 1" below the sleeve turn-up, and 1" above the bottom line of the braid marking.

g. Sew sleeve braid on marking, catching the sleeve interlining with the lower stitching. The braid shall finish smooth without puckering or twisting. The ends of the braid shall match precisely.

h. Press braid flat and press bottom turn-up of sleeves.

i. Stitch seams of the sleeves together, matching all notches. The sleeve braid shall match at the seam. The plastic lip-cord piping shall not be caught in the seam. The flat portion of the piping and the binding shall be caught in the seam. When the seam is completed, the lip-cord part of the piping shall finish as close as possible to the sleeve hem, and not more than 1/16" separation.

j. Press sleeve seam open.

k. Blind stitch the top edge of the sleeve turn-up to the interlining. The tacking stitch shall not catch or show through the outside of the sleeve. The sleeve turn-up shall not be less than 2 1/4".

301 or

SSm-1 4-6 O O

32. Make Sleeve Lining:

a. Join the forearm and the back arm seams of sleeve lining.

33. Tack Sleeve Linings to Sleeves:

a. Tack forearm and back arm seams of sleeve lining to forearm and back seam of sleeve. Ease the lining on a little. The tacking is to start 5" above the turn-up edge of the sleeve and finish l within 5" of the top of the sleeve. Both the start and the finish are to be securely backstitched.

SSa-1 4-6

2-3

No DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching

Type Stitches

Thread

Top Bottom

b. Turn sleeve lining so that they are right side out.

c. Baste turn-up of sleeve lining to the sleeve. Sleeve lining is to be 1" from the edge of the sleeve. The turn-up of sleeve lining shall not to be less than 2 1/4".

Sleeve may be felled without basting.

Hand or Machine

2-4

34. Sew in Sleeves:

Sew in sleeves notch to notch and properly distribute the fullness with a 3/8" seam

35. Press Armhole Seams: Press the armhole seam flat holding the seam short. Press the armhole seam open from the back arm seam to a point 4" forward from the shoulder seam. Care shall be taken in order not to stretch the armhole.

36. Baste Armhole:

a. Baste armhole on the outside, starting from below the front notch ant baste toward the shoulder seam, bring the shoulder seam forward to its proper position and continue basting, back tack at the shoulder seam. Properly position the shoulder pad at the back of the armhole, and baste the armhole to the end of the shoulder pad along the armhole seam.

Back tack and baste the back edge of the shoulder pad, stopping at the shoulder seam.

NOTE: Do not catch the lining around the armhole during this operation.

b. On the inside, tack the canvas to the armhole starting at the edge of the canvas and continue tacking to the edge of the shoulder pad along the armhole seam.

Hand 4-6

(If this operation is performed by machine, the excess canvas and shoulder pad may be trimmed and the sleeve head may be tacked in place during this operation.)

No DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching

Type Stitches

NOTE: The sleeve head wadding shall be positioned with the folded edge adjacent to the edge of the armhole. The backing cloth side shall be positioned against the sleeve in such a manner so that the sleeve head shall fold on itself. The tacking shall be as close as possible to the armhole seam and the fullness in the sleeve head shall be worked in and properly distributed.

c. Baste the lining around the armhole on the inside of the jacket starting at the base of the armhole and baste around the front of the jacket to the shoulder seams; also baste the pleat of the lining in place. Baste around the back of the armhole starting at the base of the armhole and baste toward the shoulder seam.