NCTRF PD 03-11B Cloth Pinpoint Oxford Poly-Cotton (2024MAR11).pdf

NCTRF PD 03-11B

CAGE CODE: 32263

11 March 2024

SUPERSEDING

NCTRF PD 03-11A

20 January 2012

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

CLOTH, PINPOINT OXFORD, POLYESTER AND COTTON

This purchase description is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense (DoD).

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for one class of polyester and cotton pinpoint oxford cloth.

1.2. Classification. The cloth will be available in the following classes.

1.2.1 Classes.

Class 1 – White 3062 Class 2 – Khaki 3729

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this purchase description. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this purchase description, whether or not they are listed.

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to procuring activity, see 6.2.

AMSC N/A FSC 8305

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

INCH-POUND

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the solicitation or contract.

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS

MIL-STD-3064 - Evaluation of Quality of Textile Materials

(Copies of this document are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil.)

2.2.2 Other government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

CODE OF FEDERAL REGULATIONS (CFR)

16 CFR 303 - Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act

(Document is available online at www.ecfr.gov.)

2.3 Non-government publications. The following documents form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILES CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC EP1 - Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC EP2 - Gray Scale for Staining AATCC EP8 - AATCC 9 Step Chromatic Transference Scale AATCC EP9 - Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles AATCC TM8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method AATCC TM15 - Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC TM16.2 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Light: Carbon Arc AATCC TM16.3 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Light: Xenon-Arc AATCC TM20A - Test Method for Fiber Analysis: Quantitative AATCC TM61 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated AATCC TM81 - pH of the Water-Extract from Wet Processed Textiles AATCC TM124 - Appearance of Fabrics after Home Laundering AATCC TM130 - Soil Release: Oily Stain Release Method AATCC TM135 - Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering

(Copies are available online at https://www.aatcc.org.)

http://www.ecfr.gov/

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D1424 - Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling- Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) Apparatus ASTM D1776/D1776M - Standard Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles ASTM D5430 - Standard Test Methods for Visually Inspecting and Grading Fabrics ASTM D3774 - Standard Test Method for Width of Textile Fabric ASTM D3775 - Standard Test Method for Warp (End) and Filling (Pick) Count of

Woven Fabric ASTM D3776/D3776M - Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of

Fabric ASTM D3990 - Standard Terminology Related to Fabric Defects ASTM D5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of

Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)

(Copies are available online at https://www.astm.org.)

2.4 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this specification and the references cited herein, the text of this specification shall take precedence. Nothing in this specification, however, shall supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2) a sample shall be subject to first article inspection (see 4.2).

3.2 Standard sample. The Class 1 finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade, presence of optical brightener, appearance, discoloration, and finish. The Class 2 dyed and finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade, appearance, colorfastness, and finish.

The finished cloths shall, unless otherwise indicated, be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced.

3.3 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.4 Materials.

3.4.1 Fiber Content.

3.4.1.1 Cotton. The cotton shall be carded.

3.4.1.2 Polyester. The polyester shall be polyethylene terephthalate.

https://www.astm.org/

3.4.2 Yarn. All yarns shall be a blend of polyester and cotton, drawn and spun into single ply yarns for both the warp and filling. The finished cloth shall contain 65 + 3 percent polyester with the remaining percentage cotton, based on the dry weight of the desized specimen, when tested as specified in 4.5.

3.4.3 Cloth description. The basic fabric shall be pinpoint oxford weave cloth.

3.5 Finish. The cloth shall be desized, scoured, mercerized, or bleached, sanforized or heat set and treated with a precured durable press (wrinkle free) resin treatment and soil release treatment. The wrinkle free and soil release finish shall meet the requirements specified in Table I.

3.6 Color. The color of the finished cloth shall be White 3062 for Class 1 and Khaki 3729 for Class 2.

3.6.1 Visual shade matching. Unless otherwise specified, (see 6.2), samples shall be verified for shade matching (see 6.4.2) in accordance with 4.5.1. The color of the finished cloth shall match the standard sample for White 3062 for Class 1 and Khaki 3729 for Class 2.

3.6.2 Discoloration/colorfastness. The finished Class 1 cloth shall be tested for discoloration.

The finished Class 2 cloth shall show “gray scale ratings” for colorfastness to laundering, wet-dry cleaning, perspiration, light as well as “chromatic transference scale ratings” for crocking equal to or better than those specified in Table I.

3.6.3 Labile sulfur. Dyes and compounds containing elementary sulfur capable of oxidation to sulfuric acid shall not be used. The dyed cloth shall be “Free” of labile sulfur when tested as specified in 4.5.2.

3.7 Physical Requirements. The finished cloth shall conform to the requirements listed in Table I.

TABLE I. Physical requirements

Characteristics Requirement Class 1 Class 2 Fiber content, percent (± 3%) Polyester Cotton

Weave Pinpoint oxford Yarn ply, Visual Warp Filling

See 3.3

Yarns per inch, Visual (minimum) Warp Filling

Weight (ounces per square yard) 4.0 – 4.4

TABLE I. Physical requirements - Continued

Characteristics Requirement Class 1 Class 2 Breaking strength, pounds (minimum)

Tear strength, pounds (minimum)

4.5 3.0 pH 5.5 to 8.5 Dimensional change, percent (maximum)

Nonfibrous Content, percent (maximum)

2.0

Durable Press Finish, rating (minimum) After 5 laundering

3.5 Soil Release Finish, rating (minimum) Initial

4.0

Color 1/ 2/ Laundering Color Change 4 4 Staining 4 4 Perspiration Acid Color Change 4 4 Staining 4 4 Alkaline Color Change 4 4 Staining 4 4 Light 4 4 Crocking Dry 4.0 4.0 Wet 4.0 4.0

1/ Discoloration 2/ Colorfastness

3.7.1 Width. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2) the width of the cloth shall be 60 inches minimum, exclusive of selvages.

3.7.2 Length and put-up. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the cloth shall be furnished in continuous lengths, each not less than 50 yards. The cloth shall be put-up on full width rolls as specified in 3.7.1.

3.8 Labeling.

3.8.1 Fiber identification. Each roll shall be labeled or ticketed for fiber content in accordance with 16 CFR 303 when examined in accordance with 4.5.2.

3.8.2 Face Identification. The face side of the cloth shall be identified by stamping on that side with the word “Face” at each end of the roll.

3.9 Workmanship. The finished cloth shall conform to the quality of the product established in this document. The cloth shall be free from defects which would affect its serviceability, appearance, uniformity, and quality assurance standards defined by the technical data in the procurement documents.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2)

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3)

4.2 First article inspection. When a first article inspection for the cloth is required, the cloth shall be examined for its appearance, shade, discoloration (class 1) or colorfastness (class 2), finish and defects. The cloth shall be tested for the characteristics as specified in 4.4 and 4.5.

For the Class 1 cloth, it shall be examined for the presence of optical brighteners.

4.2.1 First article samples. Unless otherwise specified in the contract (see 6.2), the sample unit shall be one continuous five-yard length of full width (see 3.7.1) finished cloth.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance testing shall consist of all examinations and tests specified in 4.4 and 4.5, except for the shade evaluation cited under 4.6.2 shall not apply.

4.3.1 Inspection conditions. Unless otherwise specified, excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this specification or applicable procurement documents (see 6.2), all inspections shall be performed in accordance with all the requirements of the referenced documents.

4.4 Visual examinations. Each roll in the sample shall be examined yard-by-yard on the face side for defects in accordance with ASTM D5430 and MIL-STD-3064, Type I for all classes. Defects more than the Acceptable Quality Limited (AQL) cited in the contract shall be cause for rejection. Additionally, to determine the presence of unacceptable selvage conditions, the following procedure shall be followed: During the visual examination, the perch shall be stopped a minimum of three (3) times for each roll in the sample, tension removed, and the finished cloth examined for selvage conditions. A waviness in the selvage or significant ripples diagonally across the width of the fabric is an indication of slack or tight selvage.

4.4.1 Roll identification and marking (face) examination. During the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the sample shall be examined for shade variation as specified in MIL-STD-3064.

4.4.2 Examination for length. For Government procurements only, during the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the sample shall be examined for length as specified in MIL-STD-3064.

4.4.3 Shade variation examination. During the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the sample shall be examined for shade as specified in MIL-STD-3064.

4.4.4 Length examination. For Government procurements only, during the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the sample shall be examined for length as specified in MIL-STD-3064.

4.5 Finished cloth tests. The finished cloth shall be tested for the applicable characteristics listed in Table II. All the test samples shall be conditioned as directed in ASTM D1776/D1776M. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final result. The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more sample units fail to meet any verification requirement specified.

Lot size (yards) Sample size (of sample units) 800 or less 2 801 up to and including 22,000 3 22,001 and over 5

TABLE II. Finished cloth tests

Characteristics Requirement Test Methods Fiber content Table I AATCC TM20A, 1/ Weave Table I Visual Yarn ply Table I Visual Yarns per inch Table I ASTM D3775 Weight Table I ASTM D3776/D3776M, Option C Breaking strength Table I ASTM D5034 Tear strength Table I ASTM D1424 pH Table I AATCC TM81 Dimensional change (5 cycles) Table I AATCC TM135 (1) IV Aiii, 2/ Durable Press Finish After 5 launderings

Table I AATCC 124 (3) IV Aiii

Soil Release Initial

Table I

AATCC TM130

Visual shade matching 3.6.1 4.5.1

TABLE II. Finished cloth tests - Continued

Characteristics Requirement Test Methods Discoloration to – Class 1:

Laundering (3 cycles) Perspiration (alkaline and acid) Light (170 kJ at 420nm or 40 AFU) Crocking (dry and wet)

3.6.2 and

Table I

AATCC TM61, Test 3A, 3/

AATCC TM15, 4/

ATCC TM16.2 or 16.3, 5/

AATCC TM8, 6/

Colorfastness to – Class 2:

Laundering (3 cycles) Perspiration (alkaline and acid) Light (170 kJ at 420nm or 40 AFU) Crocking (dry and wet)

3.6.2 and

Table I

AATCC TM61, Test 3A, 3/

AATCC TM15, 4/

AATCC TM16.2 or 16.3, 5/

AATCC TM8, 6/

Presence of labile sulfur 3.6.3 4.5.2 Width 3.7.1 ASTM D3774

1/ The cotton content shall be calculated as follows:

Cotton content, percent = R/S x 100

R = Weight of residual fibers S = Weight of dry desized specimen

2/ The test specimens shall be subjected to five washing and drying cycles before the shrinkage and/or elongation values are calculated. The dimensional stability shall be performed after 5 cycles. The cloth shall not be pressed after tumble drying prior to measurement.

3/ The specimen shall be laundered and dried three complete cycles. The specimen shall be dried after each of the three laundering cycles. Rated using the AATCC EP1 and AATCC EP2. Stain on all multifiber transfer swatches shall be evaluated.

4/ Rated using the AATCC EP1 and AATCC EP2. Stain on all multifiber transfer swatches shall be evaluated.

5/ Rated using the AATCC EP1.

6/ Rated using the AATCC EP8.

4.5.1 Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the finished Class 1 cloth shall match the standard sample for shade match, appearance, and the presence of optical brightener under ultraviolet source and the Class 2 cloth shall be evaluated for color and appearance of the fabric.

Samples shall be viewed using the AATCC EP 9, Option C, with a primary light source simulating the spectral quality of average daylight, CIE illuminant D65, with a color temperature of 6500 (±200) Kelvin (K) illumination of 100 (±20) foot candles. The cloth shall also be a good match to the standard sample with a secondary source simulating the spectral quality of incandescent lamplight, CIE Illuminant A, with a color temperature of 2856K (±200).

4.5.2 Presence of labile sulfur test. In the determination of presence of labile sulfur in textile materials with lead acetate, two (2), 1.50 (± 0.01) gram samples from each material submitted for evaluation shall be tested. Each of the two samples shall be cut into very small pieces and placed into separate test tubes. The samples shall be submersed in a stannous chloride solution that contains 100 grams of stannous chloride crystals ACS in 100 milliliters of hydrochloric acid ACS (35 percent concentration) and 50 milliliters of distilled water. A filter paper wet out with a

5.0 percent lead acetate solution shall be placed over the top of the test tube. The lead acetate solution contains 5.0 grams of lead acetate CP reagent grade and enough distilled water to make up a 100-milliliter solution; if the solution is not clear add a few drops (one at a time) of glacial acetic acid until the solution is clear. The test tube containing the textile sample, stannous chloride and wet filter paper shall be heated over a low flame until the solution is boiling. The solution should not be heated for more than 15 seconds. A brown to black stain on the filter paper should be evaluated as follows:

Free - The filter paper shows no discoloration or staining of any kind.

Slight - The filter paper shows a light tan to light brown discoloration stain.

Moderate - - The filter paper shows a dark brown discoloration stain.

Severe - The filter paper shows a black color stain.

The rating shall be recorded. The results shall be recorded as “pass” or “fail”.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of materiel is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The cloth covered by this purchase description is intended for use in the manufacture of dress shirts.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this document.

b. Class of cloth required (see 1.2).

c. Shade standard sample (see 3.2 and 3.6).

d. Minimum acceptable width, exclusive of selvage (see 3.7.1)

e. When first article inspection is required (see 3.1 and 4.2).

f. Packaging required (see 5.1).

6.3 Visual shade matching. In 2017, option A of AATCC EP9 was changed to option C. NOTE:

In case of confusion, the viewing geometry should be, “The specimen plane and illumination source will be parallel to each other and aligned so that the light flux is incident at the center of the specimen plane, which is set at a 35-degree (± 5 degrees) angle relative to the horizontal.

The observer will view the specimens at a 90-degree angle, relative to the plane of the specimens.”

6.3.1 Use of D75 light source. Alternatively, a primary light source simulating artificial daylight, CIE Illuminant D75, with a color temperature of 7500K (±200) illumination of 100 (±20) foot candles may be used in lieu of D65. If D75 light source is used, that should be noted in the test report.

6.4 Informational requests. For access to information such as purchase descriptions, patterns, drawings, standard shade samples of cloth and/or Navy buttons, etc. go to DLA Troop Support’s Clothing and Textile website:

https://www.dla.mil/Troop-Support/Clothing-and-Textiles/Industry-Support/Spec-Request/

Complete the request form and then submit form. Requests to use equivalent materials and/or components or to make changes to the pattern should be sent to the contracting officer for approval by the military services.

6.5 Changes from previous issue. Marginal notations are not used in this revision to identify changes with respect to the previous issues, due to the extensiveness of the changes.

6.6 Subject term (key word) listing.

Dress clothing Washable clothing Fabric Khaki Washable White

Custodian: Preparing activity:

Navy - NU Navy - NU

DLA - CT

Air Force - 11

Reviewing activities Navy - AS, CG1, MC https://www.dla.mil/Troop-Support/Clothing-and-Textiles/Industry-Support/Spec-Request/