MILJ24949.pdf

INCH-POUND

MIL-J-24949(NU)

17 July 1989

This specification Research Facility, MILITARY SPECIFICATION

JUMPER, WOMAN’S, WHITE

is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Textile Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all

Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Sco e.

This specification covers the requirements for 100% polyester certifie Navy twill white jumper.

1.2 Classification. Jumpers covered by this specification shall be of one type only in the following body types and lengths (see 6.2).

Body type w

Juniors - J Petite (Short) - P Misses - (no designation) Regular - R Womens - W Tall (Long) - T

Schedule of sizes

Misses Petite (P) Reg~( R) Tall (T)

4 4 6 6 6 8 8 8 10 10 10 12 12 12 14 14 14 16 16 16 18 18 18 20 20 20

Beneficial comments (recommendations? add b * ItIons, deletlons) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to:

Officer in Charge, Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, 21 Strathmore Road, Natick, MA 01760-2490 by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter.

AMSC N/A FSC 8410

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release, distribution is unlimited.

11 u nldn I

MIL-J-24949(NU)

Schedule of sizes - cent’d

Petite (P)

Petite (P)

Womens (W) Regular (R)

Juniors (J) v

Tall (T).

Tall (T)

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 Government documents.

2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards! and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2).

SPECIFICATIONS

FEDERAL

V-B-871 - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple (Plastic) V-T-276 - Thread, Cotton V-T-280 - Thread, Cotton, Gimp, Buttonhole NN-P-71 - Pallet, Material Handling, Wood, Stringer

Construction, 2 Way or 4 Way (Partial) DDD-L-20 - Label; For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General

Use) DDD-T-86 - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose (Unbleached, Bleached, or Dyed)

SPECIFICATIONS

MILITARY

MIL-P-15011

MIL-B-17757

MIL-T-43548

MIL-C-87052

STANDARDS

FEDERAL

FED-STD-751

MILITARY

MIL-STD-105

MIL-STD-129

MIL-STD-147

MIL-STD-2073-l-

MIL-STD-2073-2-

Pallet, Material Handling, Wood, Post Construction, 4 Way Entry

Boxes, Shipping, Fiberboard (Modular Sizes) Thread, Polyester Core: Cotton- , Rayon- , Polyester-Covered

Cloth, Twill, Polyester, White

Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings.

Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

Marking for Shipment and Storage Palletized Unit Loads DOD Materials Procedures for Development and Applications of Packaging Requirements Packaging Requirements Codes

(Unless otherwise indicated, copies of federal and military specifications, standards, and handbooks are available from the Naval Publications and Forms Center, (ATTN: NPODS), 5801 Tabor Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19120-5099.)

2.1.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publicatlons form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation.

US POSTAL SERVICE MANUAL

(Copies may be obtained from the Superintendent of the Documents, U.S.

Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402-0001.)

2.2 Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DOD adopted shall be those listed in the issue of the DODISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2).

I ml-r a-r Yllw I I ol-t- ar IIIIP

NATIONAL MOTOR FREIGHT TRAFFIC ASSOCIATION, INC., AGENT

National Motor Freight Classification

(Application for copies should be addressed to the American Trucking Association, ATTN: Traffic Department, 1616 P Street, N.W., Washington, DC 20036-1404).

UNIFORM CLASSIFICATION COMMITTEE, AGENT

Uniform Freight Classification

(Application for copies should be addressed to the Uniform Classification Committee, Room 1106, 222 South Riverside Plaza, Chicago, Illinois 60606-5808).

THE COLOR ASSOCIATION OF THE UNITED STATES

Department of Defense Standard Shades for Buttons

Department of Defense Standard Shades for Sewing Threads

(Application for copies of color cards should Association of the U.S., 343 Lexington Avenue, New

(Non-Government standards and other publications the organizations that prepare or distribute the be addressed to the Color York, NY 10016-0927.)

are normally available from documents. These documents also m~y be available in-or-through libraries or other informational services.)

2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this specification and the references cited herein, the text of this specification shall take precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Guide sam le.

~ ‘amples’ “hen furnished’ are solely for guidance and information to t e contractor (see 6.3). Variations from this specification may appear in the sample in which case this specification shall govern.

3.2 First article. When specified, the contractor shall furnish sample unit(s) for first article inspection and approval (see 4.3 and 6.2).

3.3 Material.

3.3.1 Basic material. The material for the jumper shall be a polyester twill cloth shade white 3006 conforming to MIL-C-87052.

3.3.2 Ta e, cotton. The cotton tape for the hanger loops shall conform to ~ inch width of DDD-T-86.type II, c ass

3.3.3 Thread.

3.3.3.1 Thread, covered, polyester. The thread for seaming and stitching shall be cotton covered or rayon covered polyester, shade white AH, Cable No.

66050, Ticket No. 24, 50, and-70, 2 or 3 ply-and for crowtack stitching Ticket No. 50, 2 or 3 ply conforming to MIL-T-43548. The Cable No. shall conform to the Department of Defense Standard Shades for Sewing Threads. The use of polyester-coveredpolyester core thread is not allowed.

3.3.3.1.1 Automatic pocket machine. When an automatic pocket machine using a 101 stitch type 1s used, the thread shall be type IC2, Ticket No. A, 3 ply conforming to V-T-276. When an automatic pocket machine using a 301 stitch type is used, the thread shall be Ticket No. 50, 2 or 3 ply conforming to MIL-T-43548. The Cable No. shall be as stated in 3.3.3.1.

3.3.3.2 Colorfastness. The thread shall show discoloration to light and laundering equal to or better than the standard sample when tested as specified in V-T-276 or MIL-T-43548. As a limit of acceptability or when no standard sample is available, the thread shall show a minimum of “good” discoloration to light and laundering when tested as specified in V-T-276 or

MIL-T-43548.

3.3.4 Button. The button for the inside swing pocket shall be 22-line and conform to type II, class D, style 19 of V-B-871. The color of the button shall be White, Shade BA, Cable No. 62031 in accordance with the Department of Defense Standard Shades for Buttons.

3.3.5 Gimp cotton. The cotton gimp for reinforcing buttonholes shall be bleached white AH, Cable No. 66050 in accordance with the Department of Defense Standard Shades for Sewing Threads and shall conform to type I or II, size no. 8 of V-T-280.

3.3.501 Colorfastness. The gimp shall be equal to or better than the standard sample when tested for discoloration to laundering. As a limit of acceptability or when no standard sample is available, the gimp shall show a minimum rating of “good” when tested for discoloration to laundering as specified in V-T-280.

3.3.6 Combination label. Each jumper shall have a combination identification, personnel, and instruction label conforming to type VI, classes 10 and 15 of DDD-L-20. The printing shall show fastness to laundering and shall bear the following inscription and format:

NAME:

SERVICE NO:

JUMPER, WOMAN’S, WHITE

FIBER CONTENT: 100% POLYESTER

CONTRACT NO: DLA-1OO-OO-O-OOOO (EXAMPLE)

NAME OF CONTRACTOR:

NAME OF MANUFACTURER: (IF DIFFERENT THAN CONTRACTOR)

MACHINE WASHING

Machine wash. Permanent press cycle, hot wash. Do not mix colors. Fill machine with clothes to 2/3 capacity. Use heavy duty soap or detergent.

Prespot stains with a laundry stain pretreatment. If needed, use a non-chlorine bleach. Tumble dry using a warm setting or shape and hang dry.

Remove at once from dryer. If touch-up ironing is needed, use a warm iron, press jumper inside-out.

OR

Follow NAVEDTRA Manual 414-01-45-81, Formula II.

3.3.6.1 Size label. Each jumper shall have a size label conforming to type IV or VI, Class 2 of DDD-L-20. The label shall be sufficiently sized to indicate size (body type and length) and stock number. The inscription shall be as follows:

Size: 14JT (Example - 14 Junior Tall) or 14T (Example - 14 Misses Tall) Stock Number 8410-00-000-0000 (Example)

NOTE: Abbreviations for the applicable lengths shall be P for Petite, R for Regular, and T for Tall. Abbreviations for the applicable body types shall be J for Juniors and W for Womens.

3.3.6.2 Removable size ticket. Each jumper shall have a commercial type size ticket attached to the outside of the lower left sleeve. The ticket shall be 1–1/2 inches long and 2 inches high, made of a suitable plain white cardboard. The corners ~f the ticket may-be double perforated for ease in tacking. The size (14R - Example) shall be printed or stamped on the upper left hand corner in black or blue ink. The lettering for the size shall be 1/4 inch in height. Abbreviations for lengths shall be allowed in accordance with 3.3.6.1.

3.4 Design. The jumper shall be of the pull-over type having a one piece front and a one piece back, a plain square sailor collar, a “V” neck, one piece sleeves and finished at the bottom with turned-up hems. There shall be one double welt type pocket on the left front and one dummy (closed) double welt type pocket on the right front which shall have an inside swing pocket and button flap closure (see Figures 1 and 2).

3.4.1 Figures. The figures are furnished for information purposes only.

To the extent of any inconsistencies between the specification and the figures, the specification shall govern.

3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns to be used to cut working patterns will be furnished by the Government (see 6.3 and 6.6). The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns. Neither the Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way, except that additional notches for use during construction are permitted on the working patterns. Also, minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in the specification. The patterns allow a 1/2 inch seam allowance for double lapped and double stitched seams, or for safety-stitched,double needle topstitched seams.

3.5.1 Pattern

The component parts for the jumper shall be cut from the materla in accordance with the following pattern parts:

Material Pattern Darts Cut Darts

Cloth, polyester twill Back 1 Front 1 Sleeve 2 Topcollar 1 Undercollar 1 Inside pocket (right front) 1 Outside pocket (left front) 1 Pocket welt 2

3.6 Construction.

3.6.1 Stitches, seams, and stitchings. Stitch, seams, and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. Wherever two or more methods for seam or stitch types are given for the same part of the operation, any one of them may be used. Where stitch type 401 is used, the looper (underthread) shall be on the inside of the jumper. Unless otherwise specified, double needle stitching shall be 1/4 (+ 1/16) inch gauge with the outer row of stitching 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the ~inished edge. Topstitching and edge stitching shall be 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge, unless otherwise specified in Table I. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, or puckers or open seams result.

All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there is no tight or loose stitching.

3.6.2 Thread breaks and ends of seams. Ends of all seams and stitchings when not caught in other seams or stitchings shall be backpacked not less than 3/8 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching (except labels) shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. The ends of label stitching shall be overlapped not less than 3 stitches. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitches or 401 stitch type thread breaks may be repaired by using 301 stitch type. When stitch type 401 is permitted as an option, it shall not be used unless the ends are caught in other seams or stitching. As an exception, when closing the sides of the pockets, stitch type 401 may be used and a 1/4 to 3/8 inch chain shall extend beyond the ends not caught in other stitching. During the overedge operations, a knife shall be used for trimming off only the loose thread ends. The bight of the overedge stitching shall be 3/16 inch.

3.6.3 Stitches per inch. The minimum and maximum number of stitches per inch shall be as specified in Table I.

3.7 Manufacturing operations requirements. The jumper shall be manufactured in accordance with the operation requirements specified in Table

1. The contractor is not required to-follow the-exact seque~ce of operations as listed, provided the finished jumper is identical to that produced by following the sequence of operations as listed in Table I. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment.

These modifications shall not alter the dimensional? serviceabilitY~ Or appearance requirements cited in the specification.

3.7.1 Shade and size marking. The component parts of the jumper shall be marked or ticketed to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment.

Any method may be used except:

(1) Corrosive metal fastening devices

(2) Sew-on shade tickets

(3) Adhesive type tickets which discolor or adhere to the material upon removal of the tickets

NOTE: The use of ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp, or pencil is allowed provided the numbering does not show on the outside of the garment and wherever possible is covered by the seam allowance.

3.7.2 Table I

Abbreviations in table of operations. The abbreviations used in are as foilOws:

Stch -, Bob - Lpr - Mchne - Brtck - Comrcl -smlr - Btnhl -incl – dbl -chnstch –

Stitch inch Needle Bobbin Looper Machine Bartack Commercial similar Buttonhole including double chainstitch

-.W.. IA* L. -J

TABLE I - CONSTRUCTION OF JUMPER

THREAD

NO. OPERATION STCH SEAM/ STCH NDL BOB/

TYPE STCH TYPE IN LPR

1.

2.

3*

4.

%%%”jumpers shall be ... i. strict accordance with patterns furnished which show size, shape, and directional line for cutting, and notches and pattern marks for proper assembly of all parts.

b. All component parts shall be cut from the same piece of material except pockets and undercollar which may be cut from ends. Parts cut from ends shall approximate the shade of the jumper.

Replacement of defective components During the spreading, cutting, and manufacturing process, components having material defects or damages that are classified as defects in Section 4 shall be removed from production and replaced with nondefective and properly matched components.

ticketed to and proper except those an automatic

Size and shade marking (see 3.7.1).

All parts shall be marked, or insure a uniform shade, size assembly throughout the garment parts cut from ends.

Outside (left) pocket.

NOTE: Form pocket welts with double welt pocket machine. Each welt shall finish 1/8 inch wide and 3-1/4 (+ 1/4) inches long. Welts shall be even and un~form with no raw edges, distortion, gapping, or overlapping at the ends of the pockets. Caution shall be exercised when forming welts that pockets are straight and in horizontal alignment with each other.

Position outside pocket piece on inside of ~~mper in accordance with pattern marks with the long portion of pocket above welt marks.

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THREAD

NO. OPERATION STCH SEAM/ STCH NDL BOB/

TYPE STCH TYPE IN LPR

b. Insert welt piece in pocket machine with an appropriate color and size piece of interlining of a type recommended by the machine manufacturer. Stitch welts in such a manner that the welt piece extends less than 3/4 inch above the top welt stitching on the underside of the finished, turned welt, and at least 3/4 inch below the bottom welt stitching.

c. Turn welts to finished position. Turn lower raw edge of welt under and stitch to pocket piece. Caution shall be exercised in performing this operation that no distortion or bulging results.

d. Topstitch 1/16 inch below lower welt through all plies the length of the pocket and 1 or 2 stitches beyond the ends of the pocket.

e. Turn down pocket pieces at notches leaving top of welt piece flat and topstitch 1/16 inch above upper welt through all plies the length of the pocket and 1 or 2 stitches beyond the ends of the pocket.

f. Close outer edge of pocket 3/8 inch from edge.

g“ Make a crowtack with 3 pointed rays at each end of pocket opening. The crowtacks shall measure 3/4 (+ 1/16) inch between tips of the two opposite–rays. The crowtack shall be stitched with the center ray pointed horizontally away from the pocket opening and the two opposite rays pointed vertically.

Crowtacks shall cover the square ends of the pocket, but shall not extend into the welt area.

101 or pocket 301 mchne

301 or LSd-1

301 LSca-2

301 seam type as described

515, SSa-2 516,0r

Crow-tack

10-14 50 50

12-14 50 50 50 70

12-14 50 50

12-14 50 50

12-14 50 70 (chnstch) 70 70 (overedge)

126 50 50 per crow-tack

THREAD

NO. OPERATION STCH SEAM/ STCH NDL BOB/

TYPE STCH TYPE IN LPR

pocket (See NOTE under

‘* *:t)

T e poc et shall be one piece.

a. Overedge and hem one end of inside pocket piece 1-1/2 (+ 1/8) inches as indicated by notches.

OR

Turn under and hem one end of pocket piece 1-1/2 (~1/8) inches.

NOTE: If 401 used, chain must be on inside of pocket.

b. Fold in hemmed to pattern notches top end to within form pocket flap;

edge.

end face to face according to form pocket and fold in 1/4 inch of the notches to close sides 3/8 inch from

c. Overedge stitch sides of pocket including edges of flap portion.

OR

d. Operations c and d may be performed in one operation by simultaneously seaming and overedging the sides of the pocket.

e. Position the inside pocket, pouch down with the opening toward the wearer and the flap in its open position in accordance with pattern marks for pocket location.

f. Overedge stitch all four sides of pocket welt.

503 or EFd-1 8-12 70 70 504 or 602 & 301 or EFa-1 12-14 50 50 401 50 70

301 or EFb-1 12-14 50 50 401 50 70

301 or SSa-1

503 or SSa-1 504 or

515 or SSa-2 516 or

12-14 50 50 50 70

8-12 70 70

12-14 50 70 (chnstch) 70 70 (overedge)

503 or SSa-1 8-12 70 70 504 or uvrr ILJCYU IIIU :11. Inl

THREAD

NO. OPERATION STCH SEAM/ STCH NDL BOB/

TYPE STCH TYPE IN LPR

g“ Insert welt piece in the pocket machine with an appropriate color and size piece of interlining of a type recommended by the machine manufacturer. Stitch welts in such a manner that the welt piece extends less than 3/4 inch above the top welt stitching on the underside of the finished, turned welt, and at least 3/4 inch below the bottom welt stitching.

h. Turn welts to finished position. Turn lower raw edge of welt under and stitch to pocket piece using caution to avoid distorting welt piece.

NOTE: Operations 5c, d, and e follow 5i when pouch in 5g is made after the welt is finished.

i. Turn down pocket flap to its closed position leaving top of welt piece flat and topstitch through all plies, 1/16 inch above upper welt and 1/16 inch below lower welt the length of the pocket and 1 or 2 stitches beyond the ends of pocket.

j. Make a 3/4 inch crowtack at each end of pocket welt opening as indicated in operation 4g.

k. Pocket shall measure (inclusive of seam) 5 (+ 1/4) inches wide.—

1. Pocket flap shall measure 2-1/2 (+ 1/4) inches in vertical length and 5 (+ l/4)–inches wide. Free end of pocket flap s~all measure 1-3/4 (~ 1/4) inches in vertical length.

NOTE: Pockets shall be aligned with each other and equidistant from center front.

101 or pocket 10-14 A 301 mchne 50 50

301 or LSd-1 12-14 50 50 401 50 70

301 seam type 12-14 50 50 as described

Crowtack 126 50 50 per crowtack

THREAD

NO. OPERATION STCH SEMI STCH NDL BOB/

TYPE STCH TYPE IN LPR

6. Shoulders.

a. Join front to back at shoulders with back on top of front, with a double lapped, double stitched seam.

OR

Join front to back at shoulders by stitching and overedging seam, turning seam toward the back, and double needle topstitching.

7. Make and attach collar.

a. Position and stitch combination label on all sides to outside bottom ply of undercollar. The stitching shall not be through the printing. The label shall be centered with the top edge approximately 1 inch from raw neck edge.

b. Stitch 3/8 inch from edge (face to face) neck edge of undercollar to neckline. clip jumper to stitch line 1/2 inch in front of shoulder seam; press joining seam open and flat in front of clip.

c* Stitch (face to face) center front ends of top collar together taking a seam 1/4 inch wide at the bottom edge and tapering to a point at the “V” opening.

d. Stitch (face to face) top collar to undercollar at outer edge and along neck opening 1/4 inch from raw edge and tapering to a point at v1??? opening; turn to finished position and topstitch edge 1/16 inch from folded edge.

301 or LSC-2

515 or LSbm-4 516 or 519 &

301 or

301 LSbj-1

301 or SSa-1

301 SSa-1 or

301 or SSe-2(a) 401 & 301 SSe-2(b)

12-14 50 50 50 70

12-14 50 70 (chnstch) 70 70 (overedge) 50 50 50 70

12-14 50 50

12-14 50 50 50 70

12-14 50 50

50 70

12-14 50 50 50 70

12-14 50 50

THREAD

NO. OPERATION STCH SEAM/ STCH NDL BOB/

TYPE STCH TYPE IN LPR

e. Fold inner edge of top collar under 1/4 inch and stitch to back neckline and front 1/16 inch from folded edge with no bulging or distortion catching the size label in the center back neckline seam. The clipped undercollar seam allowance shall not extend beyond the turned and stitched top collar edge.

f. Make a uniform crowtack with 3 pointed rays at the base of the neck opening. The crowtack shall measure 3/4 (~ 1/16) inch between tips of the two opposite rays. The crowtack shall be stitched with the center ray pointed vertically toward bottom and the two opposite rays pointed horizontally.

NOTE: The crowtack shall not extend into the topstitching at base of neck. The finished turned up collar below the “V” opening shall be 1-1/4 (+ 1/4) inch from the top of the crowtack to–the folded edge.

8. Sleeves.

a. Set sleeves in armhole with body on top of sleeves with a double lapped, double stitched seam.

b. Close sleeves and side seams with front on top of back with double lapped, double stitched seam.

As an alternate, operations 8a and 8b may ~~ performed by safety stitching seams right sides together, turning seam toward body (8a) or toward front (8b) and double-needle topstitching.

d. Turn sleeve bottom under 1/2 inch and hem sleeves to finish 2 (+ 1/4) inches wide.

301 LSd-1 12-14 50 50

Crowtack

301 or LSC-2

301 or LSC-2

515 or LSbm-4 516 or 519 &

301 or

301 or EFb-1

126 50 50 per crowtack

12-14 50 50 50 70

12-14 50 50 50 70

12-14 50 70 (chnstch) 70 70 (overedge) 50 50 50 70

12-14 50 50 50 70

THREAD

NO. OPERATION STCH SEAM/ STCH NDL BOB/

TYPE STCH TYPE IN LPR

9. Bottom hem.

a. Turn bottom under 1/2 inch with a folder. 301 EFb-1 12-14 50 50 Hem bottom to finish 1-1/2 (+ 1/4) inches wide or inserting a tape for hanger ~oop in the hem at 401 50 70 each side of the front approximately 1/2 inch from the side seam.

NOTE: Care shall be taken that the fullness is distributed evenly around the hem (no pleating allowed) and that the hem length is consistent across the width.

b. Hanger loops shall have a 1-1/4 (~ 1/4) inches free opening.

10• Buttonhole.

Buttonhole shall be 5/8 inch long, well made, Btnhl eyelet end, taper bar type, worked over gimp and centered, 1/2 (+ 1/8) inch from bottom edge of inside pocket–flap.

11. Button.

One 22-line button shall be sewn to hem of 101 inside pocket to correspond with buttonhole on or pocket flap.

46 50 50 per btnhl

20-22 24 per button 14-16 24 24 per button

12• Removable size ticket.

Attach removable size ticket to outside of lower left sleeve, tacking all four corners.

Hand or 2-4 mchne stitches per tack

6-8 stitches per tack

13. Cleaning and pressing.

a. Trim and remove all loose ends of thread

NOTE: Care shall be taken when trimming thread ends that damage to the fabric does not result.

b. Remove all shade tickets.

THREAD

NO. OPERATION STCH SEAM/ STCH NDL BOB/

TYPE STCH TYPE IN LPR

c. Turn jumper inside out.

d. Press entire jumper neatly with a heated iron or pressing machine.

e. Press creases in collar as follows: Fold collar side edges to center and crease; fold collar in half lengthwise and crease (see Figure 2).

f. Press along top of sleeve and underarm seam so that when turned right side out, creases face inward.

3.8 Sizes and measurements. Unless otherwise specified, size and measurements for the inished jumper shall be in accordance with Table II (see Figure 1). All measurements and tolerances are expressed in inches.

Table II - Sizes and Measurements

Size Bust Hip Sleeve Length

(A) (B) (c)

Juniors Misses Womens P R T

36-1/4

37-1/4

38-1/4

39-3/4

41-1/4

42-3/4

44-3/4

46-3/4

48-3/4

42-1/2

42-1/2

45-1/2

47-1/2

49-1/2

51-1/2

44-1/2

47-1/2

49-1/2

51-1/2

17-1/2

17-1/2

17-1/2

17-1/2

17-1/2

17-1/2

17-1/2

17-1/2

17-1/2

18-1/2

18-1/2

18-1/2

18-1/2

18-1/2

18-1/2

18-1/2

18-1/2

18-1/2

19-1/2

19-1/2

19-1/2

19-1/2

19-1/2

19-1/2

19-1/2

19-1/2

19-1/2

Tolerances:

+ 1/2 + 1/2 + 1/2 + 1/2 + 1/2 + 1/2 + 1/2

(A) Bust - Twice the measurement taken across the front from folded edge to folded edge at base of armhole

(B) Hip - Twice the measurement taken across the back bottom from folded edge to folded edge

(C) Sleeve length - Measurement shall be taken from underarm seam to bottom of finished sleeve hem

Table II - Sizes and Measurements (Cent’d)

Size Back Length Front Length Collar Collar

(D) (E) Depth (F) Width (G)

P R T P R T

22-1/2

22-5/8

22-3/4

22-7/8

23-1/8

23-1/4

23-3/8

23-1/2

23-1/2

23-5/8

23-3/4

23-7/8

24-1/8

24-1/4

24-3/8

24-1/2

24-1/2

24-5/8

24-3/4

24-7/8

25-1/8

25-1/4

25-3/8

25-1/2

21-1/4

21-1/4

21-1/2

21-1/2

21-3/4

21-3/4

22-1/4

22-1/4

22-1/4

22-1/2

22-1/2

22-3/4

22-3/4

23-1/4

23-1/4

23-1/4

23-1/2

23-1/2

23-3/4

23-3/4

24-1/4

9-3/4

9-3/4

9-3/4

9-3/4

9-3/4

9-3/4

9-3/4

9-3/4

9-3/4

10-5/8

11-1/8

11-5/8

12-1/8

12-5/8

13-1/8

13-5/8

14-1/8

14-5/8

Tolerances:

+ 1/2 + 1/2 + 1/2 + 1/4 + 1/4 + 1/4 + 1/4 + 1/4

(D) Back length - Measurement shall be taken at center back from base of back neck seam to bottom of jumper

(E) Front length - Measurement shall be taken from the undercollar seam at neck to bottom of jumper

(F) Collar depth - Collar depth shall be taken from the neckline seam at center back to the finished edge of collar at center

(G) Collar width - Collar width shall be taken at bottom of collar from collar edge to collar edge

NOTE: Refer to Figure 1 for A, B, C, D, F, and G measurements.

Refer to Figure 3 for E measurements.

3.9 Workmanship The finished jumper shall conform to the quality of product estabx~his specification. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable acceptable quality levels.

4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4.1 Responsibility for inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the contractor is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements (examinations and tests) as specified herein.

Except as otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the contractor may use his own or any other facilities suitable for performance of the inspection requirements specified herein, unless disapproved by the Government. The Government reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in the specification where such inspections are deemed necessary to ensure supplies and services conform to prescribed requirements.

4.1.1 Responsibility for compliance. All items must meet all requirements of sections 3 and 5. The inspection set forth in this specification shall become a part of the contractor’s overall inspection system or quality program. The absence of any inspection requirements in the specification shall not relieve the contractor of the responsibility of ensuring that all products or supplies submitted to the Government for acceptance comply with all requirements of the contract. Sampling inspection, as part of manufacturing operations, is an acceptable practice to ascertain conformance to requirements, however, this does not authorize submission of known defective material, either indicated or actual, nor does it commit the Government to acceptance of defective material.

4.1.2 Certificate of compliance. Where certificates of compliance are submitted, the Government reserves the right to check test such items to determine the validity of the certification.

4.2 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

1. First article inspection (see 4.3).

2* Quality conformance inspection (see 4.4).

4.3 First article inspection. When required, the first article submitted in accordance with 3.2 shall be inspected for compliance with design, construction,workmanship, appearance, and dimensional requirements.

4.4 Quality conformance inspection. Inspection shall be performed in accordance with MIL-STD-105, except where otherwise indicated.

4.4.1 Component and material inspection. In accordance with 4.1 above, components and

*materials shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced specifications, drawings, and standards unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this specification or ~ applicable procurement documents.

4.4.2 Examination of the end item. Examination of the end item shall be in* accordance with 4.4.2.1 through 4.4.2.2. The applicable inspection levels shall be as indicated in 4.4.2.3. The sample unit shall be one finished jumper. The lot size shall be expressed in units of one jumper.

4.4.2.1 Visual examination. The jumpers shall be examined for defects in color, design, material, construction, workmanship, and marking and the defects classified in accordance with the list below:

Classif’lcatlon

Defect Major Minor A B

MATERIAL DEFECTS AND WORKMANSHIP DAMAGES

a. Any hole, cut, tear, smash, burn, drill hole, scorched area, float, or open place x

b. Misweave, shading, broken and missing section of yarn, visible mend, thin place, or shade bar x

c. Slub, unsightly

d. Snag, pulled yarn or needle chew on outside, visible at normal inspection distance

e. Woven-in waste, visible at normal inspection distance

SHADED PART(S)

a. Variation in shade within a part or between parts (except part(s) which may be cut from ends)

b. Part(s) cut from ends poor approximation to shade of jumper

CLEANNESS

a. Any spot or stain on outside

b. Any spot or stain on inside

c. More than 3 thread ends not trimmed to 1/4 inch or less on outside

d. More than 5 thread ends not trimmed to 1/2 inch or less on inside

e. Two or more shade or size markings not removed

f. Shade marking readily visible on outside x x x x x x x x x x

Classification Defect Major Minor

COMPONENT AND ASSEMBLY

a. Any component part or operation omitted (unless otherwise classified herein) x

b. Any component not as specified x

c. Any component part tight, twisted, distorted, pleated, or full (unless otherwise classified herein)

d. Any operation not as specified (unless otherwise classified herein)

e. The edge of any component forced out having folds of more otherwise classified herein)

CUTTING

part required to be than 1/8 inch (unless

a. Any component part not cut in accordance with patterns, or not in accordance with specification requirements

PRESSING

a. Burned or scorched

b. Poorly pressed or pressing omitted

c. Collar or sleeves not creased as specified

d. Pressed excessively, forming gloss or discoloration x on outside

e. Jumper not turned inside out x x x x x x x

Defect Major Minor

A B

SEAMS

a.

b.

co

AND STITCHINGS

Accuracy of seaming

1.

2.

3*

4.

5.

6.

7.

Seams twisted, puckered, or pleated on outside Multiple pleats on inside of seam for a distance of more than 1 inch Part of garment caught in any unrelated operation or stitching Ends of all seams and stitchings when not caught in other seams or stitchings backpacked less than 1/4 inch, or when 401 stitching is used, required chain extension is lacking Ends of a continuous line of stitching overlapped less than 1/2 inch (except

Thread breaks not secured or stitching of the break less than 1/2 inch Wrong or varying shades of thread used

Gauge of stitching x x labels) back on outside x

1. Irregular, i.e., unevenly gauged, not uniform

2. Beyond range of width specified or varies more than 1/16 inch when no range is specified

3. Edge of topstitching too close to edge, resulting in damage to the cloth

Open seams (resulting from 2 or more skipped, broken, run-off, or missing stitches)

1. On joining seams (includes one or both rows of double-needle stitching) less than 1/4 inch 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch more than 1/2 inch

2. On overedging up to 3 inches more than 3 inches

3. On edge or topstitching up to 1/2 inch on inside more than 1/2 inch on inside or on outside x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

. . - > Al-_ c—____ -2—— --l_ L-II L- —-—-L-.. E.-&_. .__-.. —: - . . - A & _ r -- _ _ . ._ _ - . . ALZK, Defect Major Minor

A B

d. Raw edges

1. On outside less than 1/8 inch 1/8 inch to 1/2 inch inclusive more than 1/2 inch

2. On inside (except overedge stitching) 1/2 inch to 1 inch inclusive more than 1 inch

NOTE: Raw edges not caught in stitching shall be classified as an open seam. Raw edge is classified as such only when it occurs at places where edge is required to be turned under.

e. Seam and stitch types

1. Not specified seam or stitch type

2. Looper thread of 401 stitch type finishing on the outside of the jumper

3. Any line of stitching not beginning or ending where specified (unless otherwise classified herein)

f. Stitch tension

1. Loose tension resulting in a loose seam up to 1/2 inch inclusive more than 1/2 inch up to 3/4 inch inclusive more than 3/4 inch x x x x x x x

2. Loose tension on top or edgestitching resulting in exposed loose threads

3. Tight tension (stitches break when strain is applied in the direction of the seam or stitching x

g. Stitches per inch (Score only when condition exists for more than 2 inches) x x

1. One stitch less than the minimum or 3 or more in excess of the maximum specified

2. Two stitches less than the minimum specified

3. Three or more stitches less than minimum specified X x x x

Defect Major Minor

A B

CROWTACKS

a. Missing, insecure, not as specified, or not serving intended purpose:

one crowtack two crowtacks

b. Measure less than 11/16 inch or more than 13/16 inch between extreme points

c. One or more skipped or broken stitches:

one crowtack two crowtacks

d. Crooked, i.e., opposite rays deviate from vertical or horizontal axis, as applicable or causing distortion

e. Extends into collar facing top stitching

BUTTON

a. Missing, loose, or defective

b. Not specified type or size

c. Button not aligned with buttonhole, causing bulge or twist when buttoned

BUTTONHOLE

a.

b.

c.

d.

e.

f.

g“

Omitted

Not specified type or size

Uncut or partially cut buttonhole

Buttonhole not securely caught on fabric causing stitching to pull away from fabric

End not securely tacked

Ragged edges

Gimp omitted x x x x x x x x x x x

Defect Major Minor

A B

h. Purling on the underside x

i. Off center by more than 1/4 inch

j. One or more broken or two or more skipped stitches

k. Position from bottom edge of flap:

less than 3/8 inch or more than 5/8 inch less than 1/4 inch or more than 3/4 inch

COLLAR

a. Top collar full, tight, or twisted

b. Collar edge crooked

c. Collar or body neckline puckered or pleated at joining seam, visible on outside

d. Improperly set to jumper resulting in incorrect appearance

e. Corners poorly shaped, i.e., angle excessively distorted

f. Undercollar exposed along collar edge for a distance of 1 inch or more

g. Facing stitching at bottom of neck opening not parallel to bottom hem at one end by more than 1/8 inch x x x

h. Stitching of top collar and facing to jumper causing distortion, twisting, fullness, or bulging on front, along edge of opening, or at base of “V” on outside X

i. Joining seam of undercollar to jumper not pressed open and flat in front of shoulder seam

j. Neckline seam allowance not notched in front of shoulder seam, and not spread open and pressed flat

k. Notch seam allowance extends beyond the turned and stitched top collar edge resulting in visible raw edge

SHOULDER SEAMS

Fronts lapped over back, or double-needled topstitching on front x x x x x x x x x x

Defect Major Minor

A B

SLEEVES

a. Puckered or pleated at armhole seam

b. Back of sleeve lapped on front, or double needled topstitching on back

c. Sleeve hem puckered, pleated or twisted

d. Width of 2-1/4 inches

SIDE SEAMS

Back lapped on back

ARMHOLE SEAMS

hem less than 1-3/4 inches or more than over front, or double needle topstitching

a. Ends of armhole seam staggered at junction, from center to center of seam, by more than 1/2 inch

b. Sleeve lapped on body, or double needle topstitching on sleeve

POCKET (OUTSIDE WELTS)

a. Welts irregular in width by more than 1/16 inch within or between welts

b. Set on crooked relative to a straight edge laid perpendicularly across chest, by 1/4 inch or more

c. Out of horizontal alignment with each other by 1/4 inch or more, measured perpendicularly from center of each pocket to bottom of jumper 1/—

d. Opening less than 3 inches or more than 3-1/2 inches wide, or openings uneven in length by 1/4 inch or more

e. Opening gapped more than 1/8 inch at center

f. Welts less than 1/16 inch wide or more than 3/16 inch wide

g. Top and bottom edges of pocket (above and below welts) not parallel, or less than 1/4 inch or more than 3/8 inch apart x x x x x x x x

Defect Hajor Minor

A B

h. Stitching along top and bottom edges does not continue 1 or 2 stitches beyond ends of pocket, or extends more than 1/8 inch beyond vertical rays of crowtacks

i. Ends of stitching along top and bottom edges not secured in crowtacks

j. Raw edges, distortion, gapping, or overlapping at the ends of the welts

k. Not equal distance (off center) from top stitching of collar facing by 1/8 inch or more

POCKETS AND FLAP (INSIDE)

a. Hem less than 1-1/8 inches or more than 1-5/8 inches wide (right only)

b. Pocket less than 4-3/4 inches or more than 5-1/4 inches wide (including seam allowances)

c. Flap less than 4-3/4 inches or more than 5-1/4 inches wide (right only)

d. Flap less than 2-1/4 inches or more than 2-3/4 inches in vertical length (right only)

e. Free end of pocket flap less than 1-1/2 inches or more than 2 inches in vertical length at center (right only)

f. Either pocket finishing crooked with respect to a straight edge laid perpendicularly across chest by 1/4 inch or more from one side of pocket to the other

g. Total length of pockets deviating in length by l/4-inch or more, measured from folded top edge to bottom edge at center

h. Distance from top edge of pocket (left side) and flap (right side) to center of pocket opening deviates by 1/4 inch or more ~/

i. Lower inside edge of welt piece distorted when stitched to pocket

j. Top inside edge of welt does not lay flat in fold of flap/top pocket edge x x x x x x x x x x x x x x w . , ,,11 ml.. M I llNUal /UA1 I

Classification Defect Major Minor

A B

k. Stitching of lower edge of welt to pocket catching pocket opening (right only) x

1. Distance from bottom of pockets to bottom of jumper m.

at the

BOTTOM

deviates by more than 1/4 inch 1/ x

Raw edges, distortion, gapping, or overedging omitted ends of the welt x

HEM

a. Bottom edge on back uneven or bowed with respect to a straight edge laid from side seam to side seam, by more than 1/4 inch

b. Puckered, pleated or twisted

c. Width less than 1 1/4 inches or more than 1 3/4 inches

d. Irregular in width by 1/8 inch or more x x x

e. Side seams not superimposed within 1/4 inch at bottom hem

TAPE (HANGER LOOPS)

a. Omitted or not securely stitched

b. Not specified type or size

c. Free opening of loop less than 1 inch or more than 1–1/2 inches

d. Misplaced

LABELS

a. Missing, incorrect, or illegible

b. Misplaced x

c. Stitching sewn through printing x

1/ When the cumulative effect of any of these conditions, not severe enough to be scored individually as defects, produce pockets misaligned by 1/2 inch or more at any point, defect shall be scored as Minor A.

x x x x x

4 \ a ----

4.4.2.2 Dimensional examination. The jumper shall be examined for defects in dimensions in accordance with the following:

a. Any measurement deviating from nominal dimensions and tolerances specified shall be scored as a size measurement defect.

b. Sleeve lengths unequal in length by 1/2 inch or more shall be scored as a size measurement defect.

4.4.2.3 Inspection levels. The inspection levels for visual and dimensional examinations shall be as follows (see 6.5):

Inspection level

For visual examination in 4.4.2.1 Major III Major, Minor A (Combined) III

Total (Major, Minor A, Minor B combined) III

For dimensional examination in 4.4.2.2 One class s-3

4.4.3 Examination of packaging requirements. An examination shall be made to determine that packaging, packing, and marking comply with Section 5 requirements of this specification. Defects shall be scored in accordance with the list below. The sample unit shall be one shipping container fully prepared for delivery. Defects of closure listed below shall be examined on shipping containers fully prepared for delivery. The lot size shall be on the number of shipping containers in the end item inspection lot. The inspection level shall be S-2 (see 6.5).

Examine Defect _ (exterior Omitted, incorrect, illegible, of improper size, and interior location, sequence, or method of application.

Materials Any component missing, damaged, or not as specified.

Workmanship Inadequate application of components, such as:

incomplete closure of container flaps, loose strapping, improper taping, inadequate stapling, bulged or distorted container.

Content Number of jumpers per shipping container is more or less than required. 2/ Size shown on one or more items not as specifi~d on shipping container. 1/

~/ For this defect, one item from each shipping container in sample shall be examined.

2/ One shipping container in the sample shall be examined.

4.4.4 Palletization examination. An examination shall be made to determine that the palletization complies with the section 5 requirements. Defects shall be scored in accordance with the list below. The sample unit shall be one palletized unit load fully packaged. The lot size shall be the number of palletized unit loads in the end item inspected lot. The inspection level shall be S-1 (see 6.5).

Examine Defect

Finished dimensions Length, width,or height exceeds specified maximum requirementts.

Palletization Pallet pattern not as specified.

Interlocking of loads not as specified.

Load not bonded with required straps as specified.

Weight Exceeds maximum load limits.

Marking Omitted, incorrect, illegible, of improper size, location, sequence, or method of application.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Preservation. Preservation shall be level A or Commercial as specified (see 6.2).

5.1.1

(1) (2)

(3)

(4)

(5) (6)

5.1.2 against

Level A. Each jumper shall be folded and packaged as follows:

Lay jumper flat, front up (inside out) Fold sleeves straight across the chest with the cuffs folded back approximately 6 inches.

Fold jumper in half by placing one shoulder on top of the other. The folded jumper shall measure approximately 11-1/2 inches.

Fold bottom of jumper up so that the folded length is approximately 15 inches.

Fold collar forward so that it lays on folded bottom of jumper.

Each folded jumper shall be individually packaged in a snug fitting flat style clear polyethylene bag of 0.00125 inch thickness (+ 20% tolerance). The bag shall be formed with heat sealed seams that are straight, continuous, and parallel to each other and the formed edges of the bag. The final closure of the bag shall be heat sealed with the heat seal made as close as possible to the open end. A 1/4 inch diameter hole shall be made at one corner of each polyethylene bag to allow excess air to escape. The final closure of the polyethylene bag is not permitted to be accomplished by means of a tuck or reverse flap.

Commercial. Jumpers shall be preserved to afford adequate protection deterioration and physical damage during shipment from the supply source to the first receiv~n~ activity.- The package-and the quanitity per package shall be the same as-that normally used by the contractor for retail distribution.

1 . . . m I

5.2 Packing. Packing shall be level A, B, or C (see 6.2).

5.2.1 Level A. Sixteen (16) jumpers of one size (body type and length) only, pat-s specified in 5.1.1 shall be packed in a fiberboard shipping container assembled and closed conforming to class weather-resistant, type CF, variety DW, grade V15C, size 2A of MIL-B-17757. The fiberboard for the liner shall conform to type CF, class domestic and be in accordance with MIL-B-17757. Level A package shall be packed flat one in width, two in length and eight in depth, with the length of the bags parallel to the end panels of the box. Each container shall have the contents completely covered on the top and bottom with a sheet of commercial grade kraft paper.

5.2.2 Level B. Sixteen (16) jumpers of one size (body type and length) only, pac=s specified in 5.1.1 shall be packed in a fiberboard shipping container assembled and closed conforming to type CF, class domestic, grade 200, variety DW, size 2A of MIL-B-177S7. The fiberboard for the liner shall conform to type CF, class domestic and be in accordance with MIL-B-17757.

Level A packages shall be packed flat one in width, two in length, and eight in depth, with the length of the bags parallel to the end panels of the box.

Each container shall have the contents completely covered on the top and bottom with a sheet of commercial grade kraft paper.

5.2.3 Level C. Jumpers of one size (body type and length) only, packaged as specif~5.1, shall be packed in a manner to insure carrier acceptance and safe delivery at destination at the lowest transportation rate for such supplies. The quantity per shipping container shall be the same as that normally used by the contractor for retail distribution. Containers shall comply with the US Postal Service Manual, Uniform Freight Classification Rules or National Motor Freight Classification Rules, as applicable.

5.3 m. In addition to any special marking required by the contract or order, unit packs, intermediate or exterior containers and palletized unit loads shall be marked in accordance with MIL-STD-129.

5.4 Palletization. When specified (see 6.2) item packed as specified shall be palletized on a 4-way entry pallet in accordance with load type Ia of MIL-STD-147. Each prepared load shall be bonded with primary and secondary straps in accordance with bonding means C, K, and L or O or P. Pallet pattern shall be in accordance with the appendix of MIL-STD-147. The pallet shall be 4-way, type IV; type V, class 1, size 2; or type VIII, fabricated from wood group I, 11, III or IV, grade A of NN-P-71, or 4-way, style 1, size A, type 1, class 1 fabricated from wood groups specified of MIL-P-15011. Interlocking of loads shall be effected by reversing the pattern of each course. If the container is of a size which does not conform to any of the patterns specified in MIL-STD-147, the pallet pattern used shall be approved by the contracting officer.

5.5 MIL-STD-2073. When specified (see 6.2) Preservation and Packing shall be in accordance with MIL-STD-2073-1 and MIL-STD-2073-2.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The jumpers covered by this specification are intended for use by Navy enlisted females as part of the service dress white uniform.

6.2 Acquisition data. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a.

b.

c.

d.

e.

f.

g“ h.

Title, number, and date of this specification.

Size (body type and length) required (see 1.2).

Issue of DODISS to be cited in the solicitation, and if required, the specified issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.1.1 and 2.2).

When first article inspection is required (see 3.2 and 4.3). When required, the item tested should be a first article sample. The contracting officer should include specific instructions in acquisition of documents regarding arrangements for examinations, quantities, and testing and approval of the first article.

Levels of packaging and packing required (see 5.1 and 5.2).

When palletization is required (see 5.4).

When all packaging data is to be found in MIL-STD-2073-1 and MIL-STD-2073-2 (see 5.5).

Acceptance criteria (see 6.5).

6.3 Samples and patterns. For access to samples and patterns, address the procuring activity issuing the invitation for bids.

6.4 Recycled materials. It is encouraged that recycled materials be used when practical as long as it meets the requirements of this specification.

6.5 Acceptance criteria. The acceptance criteria below are recommended for use. The acceptance criteria as specified in the contract or purchase order shall be binding. Unless otherwise specified, the following acceptance criteria are in accordance with MIL-STD-105.

6.5.1 For end item visual examination. An acceptable quality level (AQL), expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, of 1.5 for major defects, 6.5 for major and minor A defects combined, and 15.0 for major, minor A, and minor B defects combined, is recommended (see 4.4.2.1).

6.5.2 For end item dimensional examination. An acceptable quality level (AQL), expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, of 4.0 is recommended (see 4.4.2.2).

6.5.3 For packaging examination. An acceptable quality level (AQL), expressed In terms of…