Specification CID A-A-55239A - 01 Nov 1996.pdf

E@@ A-A-55239A November 1,1996

SUPERSEDING

A-A-55239 November 3,1993

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION

SWEATER, SERVICE, WOOL

The General Services Administration has authorized the use of this commercial item description for all Federal agencies.

1. SCOPE. This commercial item description covers the requirements for a service wool sweater intended for use by personnel of the US Marine Corps.

2. CLASSIFICATION. The sweater shall be one type and color in the following sizes: 28/30, 32,34,36,38,40,42,44, 46,48 and 50.

3. SALIENT CHARACTERISTICS. \

3.1 Description. The 2x2 rib knit sweater shall be a pullover-type with a crew neck opening and long sleeves with elbow patches. The neckband shall be a 2x2 rib knitted as tightly as the lower skirt and cuff fabric. The neckband shall conform to the finished widths in Table II. The fabric shall be folded lengthwise to form a double neckband 1-1/2 inches wide.

3.2 Material. .,

3.2.1 Basic material. The sweater shall be made of 2-ply yam, with the y~ns spun on a worsted system from combed top. The sweater shall be no less than 95 percent wool, based on dry weight when tested in accordance with ASTM-D-629, consisting of fleece or pulled wool or a combination of fleece and pulled wool of not lower than 54’s U.S. Standard. The use of reprocessed, reused, or waste wool is prohibited. The wool shall be treated for mothproofing l/~’ The body and skirt (body welt), and the sleeves and cuffs shall be a 2x2 rib in one continuous piece. The color shall match Olive Green Shade No. 2247. The color shall match the standard sample under natural (north sky) daylight or artificial daylight having a color temperature of 7500 K and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2800 K.

The sweater shall conform to the requirements listed in Table I.

Beneficial comments, recommendations, additions, deletions, clarifications, etc. and any data which may improve this document should be sent to: Defense Personnel Support Center, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DPSC-FNS, 2800 South 20th Street, Philadelphia, PA

I19145-5099. I

AMSC N/A

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public

FSC 8405

release; distribution is unlimited.

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A-A-55239A

TABLE I. Sweater physical recmirements ~/ ~/ widest point 4-1/4 4-1/4 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5

Sleeve patch width at cuff 3-1/4 3-1/4 3-1/4 3-1/4 3-314 3-3/4 3-3/4 3-3/4 3-3/4 3-3/4

Shoulder patch length 7 7 9 9 9 9 9

‘9 9 9

Shoulder patch width As Wide as Permitted By The Shoulder Width Of The Garment ~/ The contractor shall movide information which certifies that the finished product was treated with chemicals or materials which have been safely used commercially. - All measurements and tolerances shall be expressed in inches.

Tolerance for number of ribs across chest (minimum), number of body ribs reduced at each armhole, and number of ribs in sleeve at.armhole (minimum) shall be ~ 1 rib. Tolerance for the armhole depth shall be ~ 1/2 inch. Tolerance for the sleeve patch and shoulder patch lengths and widths shall be ~ 1/4 inch.

The test for colorfastness for acid and alkaline solution shall apply.

3.2.2 Patch material. The shoulder and elbow patch shall be a blend of 50 (~ 5%) polyester with a denier not greater than 2.5 and a staple length of approximately 1.5 inches, and the remainder carded or combed cotton. The color of the. material ‘shall match Olive Green Shade 2248. The patch material shall be woven with a 2 up/1 down left hand twill with 85 warp and 45 filling yarns per inch when tested according to ASTM-D-3775. The breaking strength of the material shall be 145 pounds warp and 90 pounds filling when tested according to ASTM-D-5034. ,Non-fibrous material shall be not greater than 2.0 percent when tested in accordance with ASTM-D- 629, Section 9.

,. I

A-A-55239A

3.2.3 ~. The tape for reinforcing the shoulders and lower armholes at the side seams shall be cotton, 5/8 & 1/32) inch (min.). The weave shall be a two up/two down, herringbone twill with one or more reversals of twill across the width of the tape. The tape shall have a woven edge on both sides and shall be dyed to match the standard sample. The tape shall have 94 total warp ends of 60/2 cotton count and 58 filling yarns per inch (min.) of 30/1 or 60/2 cotton count when tested in accordance with ASTM-D-3775. Samples shall be conditioned as directed in ASTM-D- 1776 prior to testing. ”The warp strength shall be 44 pounds (min.) in accordance with

ASTM-D-5034.

““’”-3.2.4Thread. The thread shall be a 3-ply cotton, 40 or 50 Tex, and shall show “good” colorfastness to laundering (AATCC 61, Test 3A), light (AATCC 16, Opt. A) M, perspiration (AATCC 15) z/, wet drycleaning (AATCC 132), and weathering (AATCC 111). The color shall be as specified in the contractor purchase order.

~/ When a color change equal to step 4 on the Gray Scale is evident in either sample being evaluated or the standard sample, exposure shall be continued for an additional number of hours equal to the number of hours at which the color change was apparent. Specimens which do not show a color change until 80 AFU’s shall be returned to the machine for a total exposure period not to exceed 140 hours.

~/ The test for colorfastness for acid and alkaline solution shallapply.

3.3 Label. A commercial-type label is acceptable, provided that an additional printed cloth label containing the contractor’s name, contract number, size and National Stock Number (NSN) is caught on the stitching of the commercial label. The commercial label shall include fiber hnd laundering information. “

3.3.1 Label/tag. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with a pressure-sensitive label or paper tag. The finish of the labelhag shall be compatible with printing technology used. The label/tag shall be readable by a scanner. The bar coding element shall be a ,13 digit national, stock number (NSN), and shall be located so that it is completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified.

3.4 Weights. The weights of the finished sweater, expressed in pounds, shall be as follows:

Size ~/ ~1

28/30 32/34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50

11 12-3/4 14-1/4 15 17 17-3/4 18-3/4 19-1/2 20-1/4 21

1/ The weight given is based on a dozen sweaters.

~/ The tolerance is - 1/4 pounds. .

3.6 Figures. The figures are furnished for information purposes only. If there are any inconsistencies between the written commercial item description and the figures, the written commercial item description shall govern.

3.7

III.

Sizes and measurements. The finished sweater shall conform to the measurements in Table The measurements and tolerances are expressed in,inches.

3Source: http://assist.dla.mil -- Downloaded: 2023-05-19T14:23Z i T

A B

L E

II

I.

Fi ni sh ed m ea su re m en ts

A 1/

B

B ac k C

Sk ir t D

N ec k E

Sh ou ld er

F N ec k

G S le ev e H

S le ev e

I S le ev e J

C uf f K cu ff

Si ze ch es t le ng th w id th de pt h to sh ou ld er w id th le ng th w id th

~l w id th

~1 w id th le ng th

/3

-1

/2

1- 1/

-1 /2

2- 3/

5-

1/

-1 /2

-1

/2 9-

1/

2-

-1 /2

5- 1/

4-

1/

5-

1/

-1

/2 9-

1/

2- 1/

-1 /2

5- 1/

4-

1/

5-

1/

-1 /2

-1

/2 9-

1/

2- 1/

-1 /2

7- 1/

5- 1/

4-

1/

5-

1/

-1 /2

9-

3/

2- 1/

7- 1/

5- 1/

4-

1/

3- 1/

5-

1/

2- 1/

-1 /2

7- 1/

5- 3/

4-

3/

3- 1/

6-

1/

-1 /2

-1

/2

-1 /4

2- 3/

.1

.2

.5 -3

/4 4-

3/

3- 1/

6-

1/

-1 /2

-1 /2

2- 3/

6“ 5-

1/

6-

1/

-1 /2

-1

/2

-3 /4

3- 1/

8- 1/

5-

1/

6-

1/

.2

1.

1, 3-

.1 /4

-1

/2 8-

1/

6-

1/

-3 /4

-1

/2

1-

3/

3- 1/

8- 1/

6- 1/

T el

*1

*1

1/

1/

*1

1/

*1

1/

1/

*1

1/ at w id es t po in t of pa tc h ~1 at cu ff en d of pa tc h T he sw ea te r sh al l be P la ce d sm oo th an d fl at

A

B

. c. D

E

F. G

H

(1 /2 ch es t)

M ea

~u re ac ro ss fr on t, ap pr ox im at el y in ch be lo w ar m ho le se am s, fo ld ed ed ge to ed ge

(B ac k le ng th

T he m ea su re m en t sh al l be ta ke n do w n th e ce nt er ba ck fr om th e bo tto m ed ge of th e bo rd er at th e ne ck to th e bo tto m ed ge of th e sw ea te r.

S k i r tw i d t h M e a s u r e o n a s t r a i g h tl i n ea c r o s s ,1 i n c hf r o m b o t t o m ,f r o m f o l d e de d g e t o f o l d e de d g e

N e c k d e p t h M e a s u r e f r o m f o l d e de d g e o f c e n t e rc o l l a rs e a m l i n ea tb o t t o m o f c o l l a rt o s e a m l i n ea tt o p o f b a c k c o l l a r

S h o u l d e rt o s h o u l d e r M e a s u r e o n a s t r a i g h tl i n e ,f r o m s h o u l d e rp o i n tt o s h o u l d e rp o i n t

N e c k w i d t h M e a s u r e o n a s t r a i g h tl i n e ,f r o m s h o u l d e rp o i n tt o s h o u l d e rp o i n t

S l e e v el e n g t h s T h e t o l e r a n c eo f t h es l e e v el e n g t h ss h a l lb e c o n s i s t e n t .A p l u st o l e r a n c ein on e m ea su re m en t an d a m in us to le ra nc e in an ot he r w ill no t be pe rm itt ed

T he m ea su re m en t of th e sl ee ve le ng th sh al l be ta ke n fr om th e ar m ho le se am al on g th e se am in se am to th e bo tto m of th e sl ee ve

(P at ch w id th

M ea su re ac ro ss sl ee ve at w id es t po in t of el bo w pa tc h, fr om fo ld ed ed ge to fo ld ed ed ge

I.

(E nd of pa tc h-w id th

M ea su re ac ro ss th e sl ee ve it na rr ow po in of el bo w pa tc h, fr om

-f ol de d ed ge to -f ol de d ed ge

J.

(C uf f w id th

M ea su re on a st ra ig ht lin e ac ro ss sl ee ve fr om fo ld ed ed ge to fo ld ed ed ge

K

(C uf f le ng th s)

M ea su re on a st ra ig ht lin e fr om bo tto m of cu ff to to p o~ cu ff i,

4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4.1 Product conformance. The products offered shall meet the salient characteristics of this commercial item description, conform to the producer’s own drawings, specifications, standards, and quality assurance practices, and be a similar product that is offered for sale in the commercial market. The Government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance.

4.2 Market acceptance criteria. The item offered, or a generic equivalent, must have been sold to the commercial market or to the Government....”

4.3 Visual examination. Each sweater shall be examined for the defects listed below.

4.3.1 Defects. Any hole, cut, tear; color not as specified or shaded parts when required to be cut from one piece of material; any spot or stain (outside); raw edges; open seams; threads ends not removed; tight tension resulting in tight seams; loose tension resulting in loose seams; patches not properly shaped, or positioned on the arm properly; any material defects, distorted parts or poor workmanship; heavy yam or slub more than twice the diameter of the yam; any float, broken yam or any pulled or snagged yam; sleeves or body improperly shaped to provide normal taper; tape tight, loose, or not proper length; any component part omitted; label missing, incorrect, or illegible; measurement of item not as specified; barcode omitted or not readable by scanner; human-readable interpretation (HIU) omitted or illegible; bar code not visible on folded;

packaged item; bar code causes damage to the item; any items not packaged in accordance with the contract or purchase order. 4,

4.4 Acceptance criteria. Acceptance criteria shall be as specified in the contractor purchase order.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Preservation, ~ackinz and marking. The preservation, packing, and marking shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

6. NOTES ,*

6.1 Source of Government documents. Copies of military and Federal documents are available from:

Standardization Documents Order Desk Bldg. 4D

.700 Robbins Avenue Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094 “

6.2 Source of non-Government documents

ASTM Test Methods

(Applications for copies should be addressed to American (ASTM), 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA

Society For Testing and Materials 19428-2959.)

AATCC Test Methods

?:.a

(Applications for copies should be addressed to American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.0~ Box 12215, Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.)

MILITARY INTERESTS:

Custodian: CIVIL AGENCY COORDINAT~G ACTIVITY:

Navy - MC “ GSA - FSS

PREPARING ACTIVITY:,.,=

DLA -CT

Project 8405-0300

4, I

FIGURE 1. SWEATER, SERVICE, WOOL

36 Thru 46 5-1 /4”’

28 Thru 34 4“

4-112’9

28 Thru 34 3-112”

ALL DIMENSIONS ARE

TAKEN IN INCHES

FIGURE 2. SWEATER, SERVICE, WOOL (SLEEVE PATCH)

8-