MIL-DTL-10176L.pdf

INCH-POUND

MIL-DTL-10176L

30 March 2018

SUPERSEDING

MIL-DTL-10176K

20 May 2005

DETAIL SPECIFICATION

CLOTH, GABARDINE: WOOL, POLYESTER AND WOOL

This specification is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of the Defense (DoD).

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for wool, polyester and wool gabardine cloths.

1.2 Classification. The cloth will be available in the following types and classes as specified:

Type I – Wool.

Class 1 and 2 – Deleted Class 3 – 7.0 ounces per square yard Class 4 – Deleted Class 5 – 9.3 ounce per square yard Class 6 – Deleted Class 7 – 10.3 ounces per square yard Class 8 – 8.35 ounces per square yard

Type II – Polyester and wool blends.

Class 1 – 6.75 ounces per square yard Classes 2 to 7 – Deleted Class 8 – 6.0 ounces per square yard Class 9 – 6.95 ounce per square yard Class 10 – 8.35 ounces per square yard

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed: ATTN: DLA Troop Support, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5096. Since contact information can change, you may want to verify the currency of the address information using Acquisition Streamlining and Standardization Information System (ASSIST) online database https://assist.dla.mil

AMSC N/A FSC 8305

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Type II – Polyester and wool blends. - Continued

Class 11 – 7.2 ounces per square yard Class 12 – 6.8 ounces per square yard Class 13 – 6.8 ounces per square yard, Water Repellent Treated

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 or 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 or 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2. Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-C-43665 – Cloth, Wool Mothproofing Treatment Of

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARD

MIL-STD-655 – Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Cloth, Wool, Worsted and Wool Blends

(Copies are available online at http://quicksearch.dla.mil/.)

2.2.2 Other government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION

Rules and Regulations Under the Wool Products Labeling Act

(Copies are available online at https://www.ftc.gov.)

U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE

Methods of Test for Grades of Wool Top

(Copies are available online at https://www.ams.usda.gov.)

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http://quicksearch.dla.mil/ https://www.ftc.gov/ https://www.ams.usda.gov/

2.3 Non-government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILES CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining AATCC Evaluation Procedure 5, Fabric Hand: Guidelines for the Subjective Evaluation of AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, AATCC 9 Step Chromatic Transference Scale Rating AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles AATCC Test Method 8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method AATCC Test Method 15 - Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC Test Method 16.3 - Colorfastness to Light: Xenon Arc AATCC Test Method 20A - Fiber Analysis: Quantitative AATCC Test Method 22 - Water Repellency: Spray Test AATCC Test Method 81 - pH of the Water Extract from Wet Processed Textiles AATCC Test Method 99 - Dimensional Change on Woven or Knitted Textiles:

Relaxation, Consolidation and Felting AATCC Test Method 132 - Colorfastness to Drycleaning AATCC Test Method 158 - Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning in Perchloroethylene:

Machine Method

(Copies are available online at http://www.aatcc.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D1424 - Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by

Falling-Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) Apparatus ASTM D3511 - Standard Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Related Surfaces Changes Fabrics – Brush Pilling ASTM D3775 - Standard Test Method for Fabric Count of Woven Fabric ASTM D3776/D3776M - Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric ASTM D5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)

(Copies are available online at http://www.astm.org.)

ASTM Photographic Rating Standard

(Copies are available online at http://www.sdlatlas.com.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 – Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes http://www.aatcc.org/

(Copies are available online at http://www.asq.org.)

(Fabric Defect Replica Scales are available online at http://www.sdatlas.com) (see 6.6).

HEALTHCARE INFORMATION

Repeat Insult Patch Test – Modified Draize Procedure Principles and Methods of Toxicology, A. Wallace Hayes (editor)

(Copies are available online at https://www.crcpress.com) (see 6.2).

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Inspections

3.1.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2) a sample shall be subject to first article inspection (see 4.2).

3.1.2 Conformance inspection. The finished cloth shall be subjected to conformance inspection in accordance with 4.3.

3.2 Standard sample. The finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance, and shall, unless otherwise indicated, be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6.4).

3.3 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable, or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered or environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.4 Materials.

3.4.1 Stock.

3.4.1.1 Wool (Type I and II). The wool top shall be fleece or pulled wool or both, not lower in grade than that specified for the applicable class (see 1.2 and 3.4.1.1.1). The use of wool top made from laps, noils, or any other wool manufacturing by-products is prohibited (see 4.4.2).

3.4.1.1.1 Grade The wool for the cloth shall be not lower in grade than the U.S. Standard grades specified below for the applicable class, when tested as specified in 4.4.5.

http://www.asq.org/ http://www.sdatlas.com/ https://www.crcpress.com/

Wool Grade (U.S. Standard)

Type 62’s 64’s Classes I 3 and 7 5 II 1 8 thru 13

3.4.1.2 Polyester. The polyester fiber shall be semi-dull polyester fiber made from polyethylene glycol terephthalate either homopolymer of modified polymer as appropriate. The minimum average fiber length shall be 3 inches and shall be a suitable denier to blend adequately with the specified wool grade. The use of polyester fiber waste is prohibited. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.5.

3.4.2 Yarn.

3.4.2.1 Wool yarn for Type I cloth. The wool shall be spun from combed top on either the Bradford, French or American system. The yarn shall be spun into 2-ply and shall contain not less than 95 percent wool based on the dry weight of the specimen when tested as specified in 4.4.5.

3.4.2.2 Polyester/wool blend yarn for Type II cloth. The polyester fiber and wool fiber shall be blended and spun into 2-ply for both warp and filling. The finished cloth shall consist of the following fiber percentages based on the dry weight of the specimen when tested as specified in 4.4.5.

3.5 Color. The color of the dyed and finished cloth shall be as specified in the contract and shall match the standard sample (see 6.4).

3.5.1 Visual shade matching. The color and appearance shall be as specified (see 6.4) and shall match the standard sample when tested as specified in 4.4.5. The color for Type I shall be obtained by blending stock or top dyed wools; the color for the Type II cloth shall be obtained by blending top dyed wool with stock, top or tow dyed polyester fibers, with the wool and polyester fibers dyed separately and then blended.

3.5.2 Colorfastness (all Types and Classes). The finished cloth shall conform to the colorfastness requirements listed below in Table I when tested as specified in 4.4.5.

Percentage Fiber Minimum Maximum

Polyester 55 60 Wool 40 --

TABLE I. Colorfastness requirements.

Color Evaluation

Light (40 AFU 1/ or

170 kJ/(m2nm)@ 420 nm) (min.)

Perspiration (Acid & Alkaline)

(min.)

Wet Drycleaning

(1 cycle) (min.)

Crocking (Dry & Wet) (min.)

All colors 3-4 3-4 3-4 --- All colors Except Black 357

--- --- --- 3.5

Black --- --- --- 3.0 1/ (AFU) AATCC Fading Units

3.6 Physical requirements. The finished cloth shall conform to the requirements, listed below, in Table IIa and IIb, when tested as specified in 4.4.5.

TABLE IIa. Physical requirements (Type I).

Characteristic Class 3 Class 5 Class 7 Class 8 Weight, oz./sq.yd. (min.) 7.0 9.3 10.3 8.35 Yarns per inch, (min.)

Warp Filling

Breaking Strength, pounds (min.)

Shrinkage percent (max.)

4.0 3.0

6.0

4.0

5.0

TABLE IIb. Physical requirements (Type II).

Characteristic Class 1 Class 8 Class 9 Class 10 Class 11 Classes 12 & 13

Weight, oz./sq.yd (min.)

6.75

6.0

6.95

8.35

7.2

6.8

Yarns per inch, (min.)

TABLE IIb. Physical requirements (Type II). - Continued

Breaking Strength, pounds, (min.)

Shrinkage, percent, (max.)

2.5

2.0

1.5

1.0

1.0

3.6.1 Weave. The weave for all Types and Classes shall be as follows:

Type Class Weave I 3 2/1 right twill I 5, 7 & 8 2/2 right twill II 1, 10 & 11 2/1 right twill II 8, 9, 12 & 13 2/2 right twill

3.6.2 Width. For Government procurements only, the width of the cloth shall be as specified (see 6.2) and shall be the minimum acceptable width inclusive of the selvage.

3.7 Finish The cloth shall processed so as to provide a finish equal to that of the standard

3.7.1 Fabric hand attribute . The cloth shall provide a surface hand numerical rating not greater than a “2 = slight difference perceived” when compared to the standard sample when tested as specified in 4.4.5. The surface hand shall be evaluated for “softness”, “smoothness” and “slickness”.

3.7.2 Mothproofing (Type I and Type II). The mothproofing of the wool top shall be in accordance with MIL-C-43665. It shall be accomplished during the stock or top dyeing and tested as specified in MIL-C-43665.

3.7.3 Pilling (Type II only). The Type II cloth shall be processed to show no more pilling that a rating of no less than a “4” using the ASTM Photographic Rating Standard. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.5.

3.7.4 Water repellency (Type II, Class 13 only). When specified, the cloth shall be given a durable water repellent treatment and shall conform to the requirements specified in Table III, when tested as specified in 4.4.5.

TABLE III. Water repellency.

Spray Rating Requirement Initial 90, 90, 80

After one (1) drycleaning 80, 80, 70

3.8 pH. The pH of the water extract of the finished cloth shall be no less than 5.0 nor more than 8.5 when tested as specified in 4.4.5.

3.9 Toxicity. The finished fabric shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.4.5.2. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

3.9.1 Toxicity documents All treatments used to process that cloth shall be identified and accompanied by the appropriate Safety Data Sheets (SDS) information.

3.10 Length and put-up. For Government purposes only, unless otherwise specified (see 6.2) the cloth shall be furnished in continuous lengths, each not less than 50 yards. Each length shall be put-up on full width rolls as specified in 5.1.

3.11 Fiber identification. Each roll of the finished cloth shall be labeled or ticketed for fiber content in accordance with the Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act.

3.12 Marking. The back or face of the cloth shall be marked “BACK” or “FACE” at both ends of the each roll. The marking shall be clearly legible in any indelible marking used commercially.

3.13 Workmanship. The finished cloth shall conform to the quality of product established by this specification. The demerit points per 100 square yards when calculated as specified in Section 4 shall not exceed the established maximum acceptable point values.

4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4.1 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2)

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3)

4.2 First article inspection. A first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1, shall be inspected, examined for appearance, color and finished defects and tested for the characteristics as specified in Table IV.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall include the examinations of 4.4 through 4.5, as applicable. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 and the acceptance quality limits as specified in the contract and/or order, except where otherwise indicated (see 6.2).

4.3.1 Inspection conditions. Unless otherwise specified, all inspections shall be performed in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents, unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this specification or applicable procurement documents (see 6.2).

4.4 Inspection methods.

4.4.1 Wool grade examination. The wool shall be visually examined for grade (see 3.4.1.1) in undyed top form by comparison with applicable U.S Standard (see 2.2.2). In the event of a dispute, the wool grade shall be determined by the width method (wedge). The sample unit shall be 1-pound of undyed to prior to blending with polyester fibers. The sample size shall be as shown below. The result from each sample unit shall be reported separately. The lot shall be unacceptable if one (1) or more sample units fail to meet the required grade.

Lot size (pounds) Sample size (sample units) 800 or less 2 801 up to and including 22,000 3 22,001 and over 5

4.4.2 In-process inspection. Inspection shall be made at any point during any phase of the manufacturing operation to assure that no laps, noils, or any other wool manufacturing by-products are used (see 3.4.1.1), and that the dyeing requirements have been adhered to (see 3.5.1).

The Government reserves the right to exclude for consideration for acceptance any material for which in-process inspection has indicated nonconformance.

4.4.3 Yard by yard examination. Each roll in the sample shall be examined yard-by-yard on the face side only as specified in MIL-STD-655. The demerit points per 100 square yards shall not exceed a Quality Level 12.

4.4.3.1 Limits of slubs and knots. Only slubs and knots which exceed "D" or 3-1/2 as applicable, for slubs and "C" for knots on the Sears Fabric Defect Scale shall be scored (see 6.6).

4.4.3.2 Examination for length. The length examination shall be as specified in MIL-STD- 655.

4.4.3.3 Examination of back or face marking and compliance with the Wool Products Labeling Act. The examination for the back or face marking and compliance with Wool Products Labeling Act shall be as specified in MIL-STD-655.

4.4.3.4 Shade and finish appearance examination. During the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the sample shall be examined for shade and appearance. Any roll in the sample off shade;

shaded side to side, side to center, or end to end; or not having the same finish appearance as the standard sample shall be cause for rejection of the entire lot represented by the sample.

4.4.3.5 Examination for defect marking. The examination for defect marking (stringing of defects) shall be as specified in MIL-STD-655.

4.4.4 Roll identification examination. During the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the sample shall be examined for defects listed below: The lot shall be unacceptable if two (2) or more of the following defects are present in the sample.

Back or face stamping missing from either or both ends Not labeled or ticketed in accordance with the Rules and Regulations under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act

4.4.5 End item testing. The cloth shall be tested for the characteristics listed in Table IV. The methods of testing specified, wherever applicable and as listed in Table IV shall be followed. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final results. The sample unit shall be five (5) continuous yards full width of the finished cloth for all physical and chemical tests. The lot shall be unacceptable if one (1) or more sample units fail to meet any requirement specified. The sample size shall be in accordance with the following:

Lot size (yards) Sample size (sample units) 800 or less 2 801 up to and including 22,000 3 22,001 and over 5

TABLE IV. Finished cloth tests.

Characteristic Requirement

Reference Test method

Material:

Wool Polyester :

3.4.1.2 3.4.1.3

1/ 1/

Yarm ply:

Type I Type II

3.4.2.1 3.4.2.2.

Visual 2/ Visual 2/

Fiber Percentage

3.4.2.1 3.4.2.2

AATCC 20A (see 6.3)

AATCC 20A

Visual shade matching 3.5.1 AATCC Procedure Evaluation 9, Option A & 4.4.6.1

Colorfastness:

Light, (40 AFU or 170 kJ /(m2nm)@ 420 nm) Wet drycleaning one (1) cycle Perspiration, Acid & Alkaline Crocking, Wet & Dry

Table I AATCC 16.3, Opt 3 3/

AATCC 132 4/

AATCC 15 4/

AATCC 8 5/

TABLE IV. Finished cloth tests. Continued

Weight

Table IIa Table IIb

ASTM D3776/3776M

Yarns per inch

ASTM D3775

Breaking strength

ASTM D5034

Tearing Strength (Type I only) Table IIa ASTM D1424 Dimensional stability (Type II only) Table IIb AATCC 99 Weave 3.6.1 Visual 2/ Fabric hand attribute (min) Initially After three (3) wash cycles After three (3) drycleanings

3.7.1 AATCC Evaluation Procedure 5 AATCC 135 (3) IV, Aiii

AATCC 158 6/

Mothproofing 3.7.2 7/ Pilling 3.7.3 ASTM D3511/D3511M Water Repellency (Class 13 only) Spray rating Initial After 1 (one) drycleaning

Table III

AATCC 22 8/

AATCC 158 and AATCC 22 pH 3.8 AATCC 81 Toxicity 3.9 4.4.6.2 1/ Unless, otherwise specified, a certificate of compliance shall be submitted and acceptable for the stated requirement.

2/ One determination shall be made from each sample unit and the result reported as “pass” or “fail” 3/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change 4/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change and AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining 5/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale.

6/ The softness, smoothness and slickness of the sample shall be compared to the standard sample initially, after three (3) wash cycles and three (3) drycleanings when evaluated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 5. Different samples are used for washing and drycleaning.

7/ The mothproofing shall be evaluated according to the test methods and requirements cited under MIL-C-43665.

8/ The results of the three individual determinations on the sample unit for spray rating shall be equal to or better than the specified ratings when tested as specified in 4.4.6.

4.4.5.1 Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the finished cloth shall match the standard sample when viewed using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option A with sources simulating artificial daylight D75 illuminant with a color temperature of 7500K (± 200) illumination of 100 (± 20) foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent A illuminant with a color temperature of 2856K (± 200).

4.4.5.2 Toxicity test. When required, (see 6.2), an acute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted on laboratory animals. When the results of these studies indicate the finished cloth is not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in accordance with the Modified Draize Procedure (see 2.3). If the toxicity requirement (see 3.9) can be demonstrated with historical use data, toxicity testing may not be required (see 6.2).

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of materiel is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The cloth is intended for use in the manufacture of dress apparel for wear by male and female

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number, and date of this specification.

b. Type and Class of cloth required (see 1.2).

c. The specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2).

d. When first article is required (see 3.1).

e. Color required (see 3.5).

f. Length required if other than specified (see 3.10).

g. Conformance inspection acceptance quality limits (AQL) (see 4.3)

h. Inspection conditions (see 4.3.1)

i. When toxicity testing is required (see 4.5.2)

j. Packaging (see 5.1)

6.3 First article. When first article inspection is required (see 3.1), it will be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisions of FAR 52.209-4. The first article should be a preproduction sample. The contracting officer should specify the appropriate type of first article and the number of units to be furnished. The contracting officer should include specific instructions in acquisition documents regarding arrangements for selection, inspection, and approval of the first article.

6.4 Standard sample. For access to samples, address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal.

6.5 Certificate of compliance. The contracting activity may select to accept a certificate of compliance for stated requirement.

6.6 Fabric Defect Replica Scales are available for purchase from SDL Atlas. Contact Customer Service 1-803-329-2110 and request item number 402985 – Slub/Knob Replica Set.

6.7 Subject term (key word) listing.

Army Traditional Uniform (ATU) Clothing Dress Uniforms Mothproofing Slacks Skirts Trousers Water Repellent Treated

6.8 Changes from previous issue. Marginal notations are not used in this revision to identify changes with respect to the previous issue due to the extent of the changes.

Custodian: Preparing activity:

Army - GL DLA-CT Navy – NU Air Force – 11 (Project 8305-2018-003)

Reviewing Activities:

Navy – MC

NOTE: The activities listed above were interested in this document as of the date of this document. Since organizations and responsibilities can change, you should verify the currency of the information above using ASSIST online database at https://assist.dla.mil

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