NCTRF PD 87052A Cloth Polyester CNT.pdf

NCTRF PD 87052A

CAGE CODE 32263

10 February 2021

SUPERSEDING

NCTRF PD 87052

4 March 2019

MIL-C-87052B

14 May 1990

AMSC N/A FSC 8305

lNCH POUND

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

CLOTH, TWILL, POLYESTER

This purchase description is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Department of the Navy.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for a polyester twill cloth made from 100% texturized polyester.

1.2 Classification. The cloth is available in the following classes.

` Class 1 – White 3006

Class 2 – Khaki 3729

Class 3 – Black 3245

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 or 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 or 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the solicitation or contract.

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to procuring activity, see 6.2.

2.2.2 Other government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION (FTC)

Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act

(Copies are available online at www.ftc.gov.)

2.3 Non-government publications. The following documents form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILES CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 - Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2 - Gray Scale for Staining AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8 - 9 Step Chromatic Transference Scale Rating AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9 - Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles AATCC Test Method 8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method AATCC Test Method 15 - Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC Test Method 16.2 - Colorfastness to Light, Carbon Arc AATCC Test Method 16.3 - Colorfastness to Light, Xenon AATCC Test Method 20A - Fiber Analysis: Quantitative AATCC Test Method 61 - Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated AATCC Test Method 81- pH of the Water-Extract from Wet Processed Textiles AATCC Test Method 130 - Soil Release: Oily Stain Release Method AATCC Test Method 132 - Colorfastness to Drycleaning AATCC Test Method 135 - Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering

(Copies are available on line at http://www.aatcc.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D1423 - Standard Test Method for Twist in Yarns by Direct Counting ASTM D1424 - Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling- Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) Apparatus ASTM D1776/D1776M - Standard Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles

ASTM D3775 - Standard Test Method for Warp (End) and Filling (Pick) Count of

Woven Fabric ASTM D3776/D3776M - Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of

Fabric ASTM D3990 - Standard Terminology Related to Fabric Defects http://www.aatcc.org/

ASTM D5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)

(Copies are available on line at http://www.astm.org.)

SDL ATLAS

Part Number 402985 – Slub/Knot Replica Set

(Replica set is available for purchase from SDL Atlas Customer Service, 1-803-329-2110.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

INFORMA HEALTHCARE

Repeat Insult Patch Test - Modified Draize Procedure Principles and Methods of Toxicology

(Copies are available online at www.crcpress.com.)

2.4 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this specification and the references cited herein, the text of this specification shall take precedence. Nothing in this specification, however, shall supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2) a sample shall be subject to first article inspection (see 4.2).

3.2 Cloth description. The basic fabric shall be a 2/1 right hand twill cloth.

3.2.1 Standard sample. The Class 1 finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade, presence of optical brightener, appearance, discoloration, and finish. The Class 2 and 3 dyed and finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade, appearance, colorfastness, and finish.

The finished cloths shall, unless otherwise indicated, be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced.

3.3 Materials.

3.3.1 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3.2 Fiber. The fiber shall be polyethylene glycol terephthalate, regular tenacity, semi dull (see.4.5).

http://www.astm.org/ http://www.crcpress/

3.3.3 Yarn. The yarn used in both the warp and filling shall be constructed by plying two ends of 150 denier octalobal cross section, 33 (+ 3) filaments per end polyester and shall be texturized by the false twist process. All yarns shall contain the same number of filaments (see 4.5).

3.4 Finish. The Class 1 cloth shall be scoured, fully bleached and supplemented with a blue violet fluorescing optical brightener and heat set. All cloth within any one contract shall be processed for whiteness in the same manner. The Class 2 cloth shall be scoured and heat set.

The Class 1 and 2 cloths shall be treated with a soil release finish and shall meet the requirements specified. The soil release finish shall be in accordance with the manufacturer’s instruction.

3.4.1 Color. The color of the finished cloth shall be White 3006 for Class 1, Khaki 3729 for Class 2 and Black 3245 for Class 3.

3.4.1.1 Visual shade matching. Each roll in the finished lot shall be examined visually for shade match. When viewed as specified in 4.5.2, the fabric is to match to its respective standard sample.

3.4.2 Discoloration/colorfastness. The finished Class 1 cloth shall be tested for discoloration.

The finished Class 2 and Class 3 cloth shall be tested for colorfastness. The cloth shall be equal to or better than those characteristics specified in Table I.

3.4.3 Toxicity. The finished cloth shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.5.3. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

3.5 Physical Requirements. The finished cloth shall conform to the requirements listed in Table I.

TABLE I. Physical requirements

Characteristics Requirement Fiber content 100% Polyester Fiber Identification 150 Denier Weave 2/1 right hand twill Yarn ply Warp Filling

See 3.3.3

Yarns per inch (minimum) Warp

Weight, ounces per square yard 6.7 (± 0.5) Breaking strength, pounds (minimum)

TABLE I. Physical requirements - Continued

Tear strength, pounds (minimum) pH 5.5 to 8.5 Dimensional change, percent (maximum)

3.0 2.0

Soil Release (minimum) Initial After 1 laundering

Discoloration - Class 1 (minimum) Laundering Color Change Staining Drycleaning Color Change Staining Perspiration Acid Color Change Staining Alkaline Color Change Staining Light (40 hrs./170 kilojoules) Crocking Dry Wet

4.0

TABLE I. Physical requirements - Continued

Colorfastness - Class 2 and 3 (minimum) Laundering Color Change Staining Drycleaning Color Change Staining Perspiration Acid Color Change Staining Alkaline Color Change Staining Light (40 hrs./170 kilojoules) Crocking

3.5.1 Width. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2) the width of the cloth shall be the minimum of 60 inches (1.5m) inclusive of selvages, when fly shuttle looms or shuttless with tuck-in selvage looms are used. For all other shuttleless looms, the width measurement shall be made between the last yarn on each side excluding the protruding fringe.

3.6 Fiber identification. Each roll of finished cloth shall be labeled or ticketed for fiber content in accordance with the Rules and Regulations under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act as specified in 2.2.2.

3.7 Face Identification. The face side of the cloth shall be identified by stamping on that side with the word “Face” at each end of the roll.

3.8 Workmanship. The finished cloth shall be uniform in quality and free from irregular defects that can affect usage or durability and the defects specified in ASTM D3990 and Table II.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2)

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3)

4.2 First article inspection. When a first article inspection for the cloth is required, the cloth shall be examined for its appearance, shade, colorfastness, finish and defects. The cloth shall be tested for the characteristics as specified in 4.4 and 4.5. For the Class 1 cloth, it shall be examined for the presence of optical brighteners.

4.2.1 First article samples. Unless otherwise specified in the contract (see 6.2), the sample unit shall be one (1) continuous five (5) yards length of full width finished cloth.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance testing shall consist of all examinations and tests specified in 4.4 and 4.5.

4.3.1 Conformance inspection sampling. The sample unit shall be five (5) continuous yards of full width fabric per roll of finished cloth, except for the shade evaluation cited under 4.5.2 shall not apply. The number of samples per lot size shall be a specified below.

Lot size (yards) Sample size (rolls) 500 or less 8 501 up to and including 3,200 13 3,201 to 35,000 20 35,001 and over 32

4.3.1.1 Yard by yard examination. Each roll in the sample shall be examined on the face side only. When the total yardage in the roll does not exceed 100 yards the entire yardage in the roll shall be examined. When the total yardage in the roll exceeds 100 yards only 100 yards shall be examined. The cloth shall be examined on face side only for all defects defined in ASTM D3990 which are clearly visible at normal inspection distance (3 feet) shall be scored and assigned demerit points except that only those slubs and knots which exceed the limits show on SDL Atlas Slub/Knot Replica Defect Scale, “D” or “3-1/2” for slubs and “C” for knots, shall be scored. No linear yard (increment of 1 yard on the measuring device of the inspection machine) from any one roll within the sample shall be penalized more than four points. The sample size shall be in accordance with 4.3.1. The lot shall be unacceptable if the points per 100 yards of the total yardage examined exceeds 17 points. The lot shall be unacceptable if the point per 100 square yards of two or more individual rolls exceeds 26 points. If one roll exceeds the point level per 100 square yards a second sample size in accordance with 4.3.1 shall be examined only for individual roll quality examination. The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more rolls in the second sample size exceeds 26 points per 100 square yards. Only one roll shall be taken from any shipping container, unless the number of shipping containers in the lot are less than the number of rolls required for sampling, in which case, all shipping containers shall be sampled.

4.3.1.2 In-process inspection. Visual and dimensional examinations of the fabric shall be made at any phase of the manufacturing process to determine whether construction details, which cannot be examined in the finished product, are in accordance with requirements specified in Section 3. Materials and components, which can be classified, as a defect in accordance with ASTM D3990 for woven cloth shall be removed from production.

4.4 Inspection methods.

4.4.1 Visual examination. The cloth shall be examined on face side only for all defects defined in ASTM D3990 which are clearly visible at normal inspection distance (3 feet) shall be scored and assigned demerit points except that only those slubs and knots which exceed the limits show on SDL Atlas Slub/Knot Replica Fabric Defect Scale, “D” or “3-1/2” for slubs and “C” for knots, shall be scored. No linear yard (increment of 1 yard on the measuring device of the inspection machine) from any one roll within the sample shall be penalized more than four points. The lot shall be unacceptable if the points per 100 square yards of the total yardage examined exceed 30 points. The lot shall be unacceptable if the points per 100 square yards of two or more individual rolls exceed 45 points. If one roll exceeds the point level per 100 square yards, a second sample of 20 rolls shall be examined only for the individual roll quality. If one or more rolls in the second sample of 20 exceeds the individual point value, the lot shall be rejected.

Point computation for the lot quality and individual roll quality shall be as follows:

4.4.1.1 Demerit point computation.

Points per 100 square yards = 3600 T (W x Y)

Legend:

T = total number of points scored in the sample W = width (in inches) of the cloth purchased Y = total number of yards inspected

4.4.1.2 Demerit points. Demerit points shall be assigned as follows:

a. For defects up to and including 3 inches in any dimension – one point.

b. For defects exceeding 3 inches but not exceeding 6 inches in any dimension – two points

c. For defects exceeding 6 inches but not exceeding 9 inches in any dimension – three points

d. For defects exceeding 9 inches in any dimension – four points.

The following defects, when present, shall be scored four points for each yard in which they occur:

e. Baggy, ridgy or wavy cloth

f. Non-uniformity of shade (poor dye penetration, mottled, streaky or cloudy)

g. Excessive nippiness

h. Holes, cuts, tears, open places

4.4.1.3 Face identification and nonconformance with the Textile Identification Act examination.

During the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the sample shall be examined for nonconformance to the face identification and Textile Fiber Products Identification Act. The lot shall be unacceptable if two or more rolls in the sample have face identification missing from either or both ends, two or more rolls in the sample are not labeled or ticketed in accordance with the Textile Fibers Products Identification Act see 6.2.

4.4.1.4 Examination for length. Rolls shall be examined for gross length. When total yardage in the roll exceeds 100 yards, only 100 yards shall be examined see 6.2.

4.4.1.5 Total yardage in sample. The lot shall be unacceptable if the total of the actual lengths of rolls in the samples is less than the total of the lengths marked on the ticket. The rolls examined shall be those selected for the examination of individual rolls see 6.2.

4.5 Finished cloth tests. The cloth shall be tested as specified in Table II. The finished cloth shall be conditioned as directed in ASTM D1776/D1776M. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final results.

TABLE II. Finished cloth tests

Characteristics Requirement Verification Fiber content 3.5 AATCC 20A Fiber identification 3.5 AATCC 20A Weave 3.5 Visual Yarn ply 3.5 Visual Yarns per inch 3.5 ASTM D3775 Weight 3.5 ASTM D3776/D3776M, Option C Breaking strength 3.5 ASTM D5034 Tear strength 3.5 ASTM D1424 pH 3.5 AATCC 81 Dimensional change (5 cycles) 3.5 AATCC 135 (1) V Ai, 5/ Soil Release Initial After laundering (1 cycle)

3.5 4.5.1

Discoloration to – Class 1:

Laundering (3 cycles) Perspiration Acid Alkaline Light Dry cleaning Crocking

3.5

AATCC 61, Test 3A, 1/

AATCC 15, 2/

AATCC 16.2 or 16.3, 3/

AATCC 132, 2/

AATCC 8, 4/

TABLE II. Finished cloth tests - Continued

Characteristics Requirement Verification Colorfastness to – Class 2 and 3:

Laundering (3 cycles) Perspiration Acid Alkaline Light Dry cleaning Crocking

AATCC 61, Test 3A, 1/

AATCC 15, 2/

AATCC 16.2 or 16.3, 3/

AATCC 132, 2/

AATCC 8, 4/

Visual shade matching 3.4.1.1 4.5.2 Toxicity 3.4.3 4.5.3

1/ The specimen shall be laundered and dried three (3) complete cycles. The specimen shall be dried after each of the three (3) laundering cycles. Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change and AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining. Only the stain on the polyester fibers of the multifiber transfer swatch shall be evaluated.

2/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change and AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining. Only the stain on the polyester fibers of the multifiber transfer swatch shall be evaluated.

3/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change 4/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale. For Class 1, the black crock cloth shall be used.

5/ The test specimens shall be subjected to five (5) washing and drying cycles before the shrinkage and/or elongation values are calculated.

4.5.1 Soil release test procedure. The test method shall be in accordance with the requirements of 4.5.1.1 through 4.5.1.4.

4.5.1.1 Specimens. Three (3) specimens shall be taken from different warp and filling yarns of the cloth.

4.5.1.2 Staining. The test specimens shall be stained in accordance with AATCC Test Method 130, except for the following:

a. The test specimens shall be 4-inch by 8-inch swatch of cloth.

b. Three drops of Graphite multi-grade motor oil (SAE 10W-40) (see 6.5) supplied as

Government Furnished Material (GFM) shall be used in lieu of five drops of mineral oil.

4.5.1.3 Accelerated laundering. The test specimens shall be laundered in accordance with AATCC Test Method 61, Test 3A except for the following:

a. The total liquor volume shall be 500 milliliters.

b. 15 grams per liter of AATCC 1993 detergent with optical brightener shall be used.

c. A total of fifty (50) stainless steel balls shall be used.

d. No multifiber test fabric or bleached cotton fabric is required.

e. At the end of the cycle, rinse in running water at 105 ºF for five (5) minutes, no scouring is required.

f. Hydroextract the test specimens to remove excess moisture. Air dry or oven dry at

220 ºF.

4.5.1.4 Evaluation. The test specimens shall be evaluated in accordance with AATCC Test Method 130 procedure, except each specimen shall be evaluated against “NCTRF Stain Release Replica supplied as GFM (see 6.6).

4.5.2 Visual examination for shade and finish. The sample unit shall be a 4-inch (Warp) by 24-inch (Filling) swatch of cloth. The results shall be reported as pass or fail.

4.5.2.1 Class 1 cloth. The finished Class 1 cloth shall be evaluated for shade match, appearance, and the presence of optical brightener under ultraviolet source The finished cloth shall be viewed using AATCC Evaluation - Procedure 9, Option A, under filtered tungsten lamps which approximate artificial daylight D75 illuminant having a correlated color temperature of 7500 (+

200) Kelvin, with illumination of 100 (+ 20) foot candles and under cool white fluorescent with a color temperature of 4230 (+ 200) Kelvin and under incandescent lamplight at 2856 (+ 200) Kelvin to determine if it is a good match to its respective standard sample.

4.5.2.2 Class 2 and 3 cloth. The finished Class 2 and 3 cloth shall be evaluated for shade match and appearance. The finished cloth shall be viewed using AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option A, under filtered tungsten lamps which approximate artificial daylight D75 illuminant having a correlated color temperature of 7500 (+ 200) Kelvin, with illumination of 100 (+ 20) foot candles and under incandescent lamplight at 2856 (+ 200) Kelvin to determine if it is a good match to its respective standard sample.

4.5.3 Toxicity test. When required, (see 6.2), an acute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted on laboratory animals. When the results of these studies indicate the cloth is not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in accordance with the Modified Draize Procedure. (See 2.3). If the toxicity requirement (see 3.4.3) can be demonstrated with historical use data, toxicity testing may not be required.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order (see 6.2). When packaging of materiel is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel shall contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The cloth covered by this specification is intended for use in the manufacture of uniform items such as the white jumper uniform for wear by male and female personnel of the U.S. Navy.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Procurement documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this specification.

b. Class of cloth required (see 1.2).

c. Applicable shade standard sample (see 3.2.1 and 3.4.1).

d. When first article inspection is required (see 3.1 and 4.2).

e. When required, yard-by-yard examination (see 4.4.1.3 through 4.4.1.6).

f. Name and address of the first inspection facility; and the name and address of the Government activity responsible for conducting the first article inspection program.

h. Packaging required (see 5.1).

6.3 Informational requests. For access to information such as purchase descriptions, patterns, drawings, standard shade samples of cloth and/or Navy buttons, etc. go to DLA Troop Support’s Clothing and Textile website:

http://www.dla.mil/TroopSupport/ClothingandTextiles/SpecRequest.aspx. Complete the request form and then submit form. Requests to use equivalent materials and/or components or to make changes to the pattern should be sent to the contracting officer for approval by the military services.

6.4 GFM. The Source for the Graphite Motor Oil and Evaluation Replicas is Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, 10 General Greene Avenue, Natick MA 01760.

6.5 Replica Set. The SDL Atlas Slub/Knot Replica Set is not available from their website at this time. Recommend calling customer service, 1-803-329-2110.

6.6 Subject term (key word) listing.

Cloth, dress clothing Cloth, washable clothing Fabric, washable

Custodian: Preparing activity:

Navy - NU Navy - NU

DLA - CT

http://www.dla.mil/TroopSupport/ClothingandTextiles/SpecRequest.aspx