Revised_Womens_Overblouse_Purchase_Specification.pdf

PURCHASE SPECIFICATION: OVERBLOUSE,

WOMEN'S

Document Control Number: UQC S-02-06A | GL-PD-11-07

Revision Date: October 2024 (Supersedes edition dated 14 April 2008)

Preparing Activity: Army - GL • GL-Army • S-02-06A-OVERBLOUSE ASU • INCH-POUND

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope

This purchase description covers the requirements for a long and short sleeve women's overblouse to be worn as part of the Army Service Uniform (ASU).

1.2 Classification

The overblouse shall be one type in the following classes and sizes:

Class 1: Short Sleeve

Class 2: Long Sleeve

Schedule of Sizes

Short Torso (S): 4S, 6S, 8S, 10S, 12S, 14S, 16S, 18S, 20S, 22S

Regular Torso (R): 4R, 6R, 8R, 10R, 12R, 14R, 16R, 18R, 20R, 22R

Long Torso (L): 4L, 6L, 8L, 10L, 12L, 14L, 16L, 18L, 20L, 22L

Extra Large (XL): 8XL, 10XL, 12XL, 14XL

Note: The Class 2 (long sleeve) overblouse is available in five sleeve lengths: Short, Regular, Long, X-Long, and XX-Long.

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General

The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3, 4, and 5 of this specification.

This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements cited in sections 3, 4, and 5 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government Documents

2.2.1 Specifications, Standards, and Handbooks

The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL SPECIFICATIONS

V-B-871 – Button, Sewing Hole and Button, Staple

FEDERAL STANDARDS

FED-STD-4 – Glossary of Fabric Imperfections

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50199 – Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton- or Polyester-Covered

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-32231B – Cloth, Polyester/Cotton (Active Standard - Supersedes GL/PD 08-

01)

MIL-DTL-32075 – Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use)

MIL-T-43624 – Thread, Polyester, Spun

MIL-C-44296 – Cloth, Fusibles

FEDERAL ACQUISITION REGULATIONS (FAR)

52.209-4 – First Article Approval - Government Testing

2.3 Non-Government Publications

The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Test Method 88B – Smoothness of Seams in Fabrics after Repeated Home

Launderings

AATCC Test Method 143 – Appearance of Apparel and Other Textile End Products after Repeated Home Launderings

AATCC Three Dimensional Smoothness Appearance Replicas

AATCC Photographic Seam Smoothness Replicas

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D 6193 – Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 – Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

2.4 Order of Precedence

In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First Article

When specified, a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Recycled, Recovered, or Environmentally Preferable Materials

Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life-cycle costs.

3.3 Design

The overblouse is a long-sleeve or short-sleeve, semi-fitted, hip-length style with front princess seams and a three-piece back. The overblouse has shoulder loops, a convertible collar, and a six-button front. The collar and shoulder loops have fusible interlinings, and the collar has stays.

3.4 Materials

3.4.1 Basic Material

The basic material for the overblouse shall be a polyester/cotton herringbone cloth conforming to MIL-DTL-32231B, Type I, Class 1. The finished cloth shall have a nominal weight of and shall feature a durable press and soil release finish. The color shall match Army Shade White 521.

3.4.2 Button Stay

The button stay material shall be the basic material of the overblouse, or as an alternate, a commercial button stay material may be used.

3.4.3 Fusible Interlining

The fusible interlining material for the shoulder loops, collar, front facings, and cuffs (Class 2) shall conform to Type V, Style B, Class 2 of MIL-C-44296.

3.5 Components

3.5.1 Buttons

The buttons shall conform to Type II, Class K, Style 25, 19 line of V-B-871. The color of the buttons shall match Army Shade White 521.

3.5.2 Thread

The thread used for stitching and seaming shall be cotton- or polyester-covered polyester core, Tex 31-35, 2-ply and Tex 25-30, 2-ply conforming to A-A-50199. The thread for the buttonholes and button sewing shall be Tex 31-35, 2-ply only. As an alternate, the thread may be Tex 30, 2-ply and Tex 25, 2-ply conforming to MIL-T-43624. Colorfastness requirements shall apply. The color of the dyed thread shall match Army Shade White 521.

3.5.3 Collar Stays

The collar stays shall be made from a polyethylene terephthalate plastic sheet and shall measure in thickness, in width, and in length. The color shall be natural (clear or opaque).

5.0 ±

0.25 ounces per square yard

0.010 ± 0.001 inches 3/8 inches 2-1/4 ± 1/16 inches

3.6 Labels

Each overblouse shall have a size and combination identification-instruction label conforming to

MIL-DTL-32075.

3.6.1 Size Label

The size label shall conform to Type V, Class 2 of MIL-DTL-32075 and be positioned on the center of the top collarstand.

3.6.2 Combination Label

The combination identification-instruction label shall conform to Type V, Class 15 of MIL-DTL-

32075. The label shall be positioned on the left front facing (as worn) with the bottom of the label from the bottom of the finished overblouse.

The label shall contain the following information:

OVERBLOUSE, WOMAN'S, [SHORT SLEEVE / LONG SLEEVE]

65/35 Polyester/Cotton (Conforming to MIL-DTL-32231B, Type I, Class 1)

Washing Instructions:

1. Wash with moderately hot water (115°F) using soap or mild detergent.

For machine washing: Use permanent press cycle.

For hand washing: Do not wring or twist.

2. DO NOT STARCH OR BLEACH.

3. Dry in tumble dryer on warm or delicate setting. Remove immediately at end of drying.

Shape and hang.

4. To drip dry, remove from water before last spin cycle. Shape and hang.

5. Touch up if required. Iron at a moderate or synthetic material heat setting.

3.10 Construction

3.10.1 Stitches, Seams, and Stitching

All stitching, seams, and stitchings shall conform to ASTM D 6193. Seam allowances shall be maintained so that no raw edges, runoffs, pleats, or open seams occur. The width of overedging shall be to . Edge and top stitching shall be uniformly gauged.

Type 301 Stitching: Ends of all stitchings shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than .

3-1/4 ± 1/4 inches

3/16 1/4 inch

1/4 inch

Thread Ends: All thread ends shall be trimmed to maximum length.

3.10.2 Buttonholes

Buttonholes shall be straight-cut, purl, or whip type. The finished inside cut length shall be to long.

3.10.3 Shoulder Loops

Shoulder loops shall finish smooth, flat, and uniform in construction and placement. They shall measure at the narrow end and at the wide end.

3.10.4 Sleeve Hem (Class 1)

The bottom edge of the sleeve shall be turned under with a finished straight-stitched hem width of .

3.10.5 Cuffs (Class 2)

Cuffs shall finish smooth and flat with rounded lower corners. Finished width shall be

3.10.6 Collar

The collar shall join the overblouse with notches matching. Front points shall measure in length. The collar shall be edge-stitched with a to gauge.

3.10.7 Bottom Hem

Turn under the bottom raw edge of the hem and stitch to from the folded edge. The finished hem shall be blind-stitched to a width of .

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of Inspection

The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2)

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3)

1/4 inch

1/2 9/16 inches

1-1/2 ± 1/8 inches 1-7/8 ± 1/8 inches

1/4 inch 1 inch

2-1/4 ± 1/8 inches

2-7/8 ± 1/8 inches 3/16 1/4 inch

1/4 inch 1/16 1/8 inch 1-1/2 inches

4.2 First Article Inspection

The first article shall be inspected for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship, and dimensional requirements.

4.3 Conformance Inspection

Conformance inspection shall include shade and appearance of all components, finished measurements (Table III), and examination for defects. Sampling shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4.

4.4 Finished Measurements (Table III Extract)

The finished overblouse measurements shall conform to the following key dimensions:

Size 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 Tol.

Collar 14-

1/4

14-

1/2

14-

3/4

15-

1/4

15-

1/2

15-

3/4

16-

1/4

16-

1/2

1/4

1/2 Bust 18-

1/2

19-

1/2

20-

1/4

21-

3/4

22-

3/4

23-

3/4

24-

3/4

25-

3/4

3/8

Back

Length

(Reg.)

22-

7/8

23-

1/8

23-

1/4

23-

3/8

23-

1/2

23-

5/8

23-

3/4

23-

7/8

1/4

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging and Packing

Packaging and packing of the overblouse shall be in accordance with good commercial practice or as directed/required by the procurement activity.