overblouse_specification.pdf

PURCHASE SPECIFICATIONS

OVERBLOUSE, WOMEN'S

UQC S-02-06A | GL-PD-11-07 | 14 April 2008

Army - GL • GL-Army • S-02-06A-OVERBLOUSE ASU • INCH-POUND

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope.

This purchase description covers the requirements for a long and short sleeve women's overblouse.

1.2 Classification.

The overblouse shall be one type in the following classes and sizes as follows:

• Class 1 - Short Sleeve

• Class 2 - Long Sleeve

Schedule of Sizes

• Short Torso (S): 4S, 6S, 8S, 10S, 12S, 14S, 16S, 18S, 20S, 22S

• Regular Torso (R): 4R, 6R, 8R, 10R, 12R, 14R, 16R, 18R, 20R, 22R

• Long Torso (L): 4L, 6L, 8L, 10L, 12L, 14L, 16L, 18L, 20L, 22L

• Extra Large (XL): 8XL, 10XL, 12XL, 14XL

Note: The Class 2 overblouse is available in 5 sleeve lengths: Short, Regular, Long, X-Long and XX-Long.

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General.

The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3, 4 and 5 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements cited in sections 3, 4 and 5 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks.

The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein.

Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

FEDERAL SPECIFICATIONS

• V-B-871 - Button, Sewing Hole and Button, Staple

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FEDERAL STANDARDS

• FED-STD-4 - Glossary of Fabric Imperfections

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

• A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton- or Polyester-Covered

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

• MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use)

• MIL-T-43624 - Thread, Polyester, Spun

• MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusibles

PURCHASE DESCRIPTIONS

• GL/PD 08-01 - Cloth, Polyester/Cotton

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings and publications.

The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL ACQUISITION REGULATIONS (FAR)

• 52.209-4 - First Article Approval - Government Testing

2.3 Non-Government publications.

The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

• Technical Manual of the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

• AATCC Test Method 88B - Smoothness of Seams in Fabrics after Repeated Home Launderings

• AATCC Test Method 143 - Appearance of Apparel and Other Textile End Products after Repeated Home Launderings

• AATCC Three Dimensional Smoothness Appearance Replicas

• AATCC Photographic Seam Smoothness Replicas for Evaluating Single- and Double-Needle Seams

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

• ASTM D 6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

• ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

• Repeat Insult Patch Test - Modified Draize Procedure - Principles and Methods of Toxicology, (4th edition) A Wallace Hayes (editor), pp 1057-1060, 2001

2.4 Order of precedence.

In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION: OVERBLOUSE, WOMEN'S (GL-PD-11-07)

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3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article.

When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Recycled, recovered or environmentally preferable materials.

Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design.

The overblouse is a long sleeve or short sleeve, semi-fitted hip length style with front princess seams and three piece back. The overblouse has shoulder loops, convertible collar, and a six button front. The collar and shoulder loops have fusible interlinings, and the collar has stays.

3.4 Materials.

3.4.1 Basic material.

The basic material for the overblouse shall be a 5.0 ± 0.25 ounce polyester/cotton, herringbone cloth conforming to GL/PD 08-01. The color shall match Army Shade White 521.

3.4.2 Button stay.

The button stay material shall be the basic material of the overblouse, or as an alternate, a commercial button stay material may be used.

3.4.3 Fusible interlining.

3.4.3.1 Shoulder loops, collar, front facings and cuffs.

The fusible interlining material for the shoulder loops, collar, front facings and cuffs (Class 2) shall conform to Type V, Style B, Class 2 of MIL-C-44296.

3.5 Components.

3.5.1 Buttons.

The buttons shall conform to Type II, Class K, Style 25, 19 line of V-B-871. The color of the buttons shall match Army Shade White 521.

3.5.2 Thread.

The thread used for stitching and seaming shall be cotton or polyester covered polyester core, Tex 31-35, 2 ply and Tex 25-30, 2 ply conforming to A-A-50199. The thread for the buttonholes and button sewing shall be Tex 31-35, 2 ply only. As an alternate the thread may be Tex 30, 2 ply and Tex 25, 2 ply conforming to MIL-T-43624. Colorfastness requirements shall apply. The color of the dyed thread shall match Army Shade White 521.

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3.5.3 Collar stays.

The collar stays shall be made from a polyethylene terephthalate plastic sheet and shall measure 0.010 ± 0.001 inch in thickness, 3/8 inch in width and 2-1/4 ± 1/16 inches in length. The color shall be natural (clear or opaque). Either both ends shall be rounded or pointed with the points rounded, or one end shall be rounded and one end tapered with the point rounded.

3.5.3.1 Collar stay configuration

3.5.3.1.1 Unslotted stays.

The unslotted stays shall measure 3/8 ± 1/16 inch wide and 2-1/4 ± 1/16 inches long.

3.5.3.1.2 Slotted stays.

The slotted stays shall measure 3/8 ± 1/16 inch wide and 2-1/4 ± 1/16 inches long. The stay shall have two slots 3/4 ± 1/16 inch long centered along the length of the stay. Each slot shall be 1/32 inch wide and spaced approximately equidistant across the width of the stay.

3.6 Labels.

Each overblouse shall have a size and combination identification-instruction label conforming to MIL-DTL-32075. The fastness to laundering requirements of MIL-DTL-32075 shall apply.

3.6.1 Size Label.

The size label for the overblouse shall conform to type V, class 2 of MIL-DTL-32075. Colorfastness requirements shall apply. The size label shall be positioned on the center of the top collarstand, and shall contain actual body dimensions for bust and long sleeve length as specified in table II. Example:

12R Long Sleeve Bust - 37-1/2 Sleeve 18

3.6.2 Combination label.

The combination identification-instruction label shall conform to type V, class 15 of MIL-DTL-32075. The combination label shall be positioned on the left front facing (as worn) with bottom of label 3-1/4 ± 1/4 inches from bottom of finished overblouse and stitched on all four sides. Stitching shall not be through printing. The label shall contain the following information:

OVERBLOUSE, WOMAN'S, SHORT SLEEVE

65/35 Polyester/Cotton or

OVERBLOUSE, WOMAN'S, LONG SLEEVE

65/35 Polyester/Cotton

Washing instructions

1. Wash with moderately hot water (115°F) using soap or mild detergent.

a. For machine washing. Use permanent press cycle.

b. For hand washing. Do not wring or twist.

2. DO NOT STARCH OR BLEACH.

3. Dry in tumble dryer on warm or delicate setting. Remove immediately at end of drying. Shape and hang.

4. To drip dry, remove from water before last spin cycle. Shape and hang.

5. Touch up if required. Iron at a moderate or synthetic material heat setting.

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DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

3.6.3 Certification label.

Each overblouse shall have a label attached stating certification information as described in 4.9. The certification label shall be positioned on the left front facing (as worn) with bottom of label 1/2 inch above the combination label and stitched on all four sides. Stitching shall not be through printing. As an alternate, the certification label may be combined with the combination label.

3.6.3.1 Age code labeling.

Each certification label shall have an age code placed at the bottom of the certification label stating the quarter and year of manufacturer as described in 4.9. The age code may be accomplished by direct printing, stamping or stenciling.

3.7 Figures.

Figures are furnished for information purposes only. If there are any inconsistencies between the written specification and the figures, the written specification shall control.

3.8 Patterns.

A size 12 pattern is available for use as a guide for processing the manufacturer's working patterns and unless otherwise indicated provide an allowance of 3/8 inch for all seams. The supplier may adjust the patterns to suit their method of manufacturing, but shall maintain the finished dimensions and basic design in all details. Patterns are available by written request to U.S. Army Natick Soldier Center, ATTN: AMSRD-NSC-WP-WA, Kansas Street, Natick, MA 01760-5019.

3.8.1 List of pattern parts.

The component parts of the overblouse shall be cut from materials specified in accordance with the number of parts indicated in table I.

Table I. List of pattern parts

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Material Nomenclature Cut Parts

Basic material Center Front 2

Side Front 2

Center Back 1

Side Back 2

Sleeve (Class 1) 2

Sleeve (Class 2) 2

Sleeve Binding (Class 2) 2

Collar 2

Collarstand 2

Stay Holder 2

Shoulder Loop 4

Cuff (Class 2) 2

Fusible interlining Top Shoulder Loop 2

Front Facing Interlining 2

Top Collar 1

Collarstand 1

Cuff (Class 2) 2

3.9 End item seam and fabric appearance, bonding strength of fusible and adhesion of ultrasonically fused collar stays.

3.9.1 Seam and fabric appearance rating.

After the finished overblouse has been laundered five (5) times in accordance with 4.10.2, the appearance rating of the seams and stitching (see 6.6) and fabric shall be as specified in Table II (see 4.10.3):

Table II. Appearance ratings

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Part Minimum Average of 3 Observations 1/

Fused collar edges 3.7

Fused shoulder loops 3.7

Fabric overall 3.7

Cuff (Class 2) 3.3

Armholes 3.3

Bust 3.3

Sleeve hems 3.3

Underarm seams 3.3

Front and back seams 3.3

Bottom hem 3.3

1/ No individual observation shall be lower than a rating of "3".

3.9.2 Bonding strength and appearance of fusible.

After the overblouse has been laundered five (5) times in accordance with 4.10.2, it shall show no bubbling or delamination of the fused plies of material. There shall be no "strike-through" of adhesive after fusing.

3.9.3 Ultrasonically fused collar stay resistance to laundering (where applicable).

After the overblouse has been laundered five (5) times in accordance with 4.10.2, the overblouse shall show no delamination or curling of the ultrasonically fused collar stays. There shall be no delamination of any fused points.

See 6.7 for recommended ultrasonic welding conditions.

3.10 Construction.

3.10.1 Stitches, seams and stitching.

All stitching, seams and stitchings shall conform to ASTM D 6193. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, pleats, or open seams occur. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The width of overedging shall be 3/16 to 1/4 inch. The guide and knives for the overedge machines shall be set to trim only the raveled edges of the fabric. All seams shall start and finish evenly. The trimming shall not exceed 1/16 inch. The edge and top stitching shall be uniformly gauged.

3.10.1.1 Type 301 stitching.

Ends of all stitchings shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/4 inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitchings. Ends of a continuous line of stitching shall overlap not less than 1/2 inch. The lock shall be imbedded in the materials sewn.

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3.10.1.2 Repairs of type 301 stitching.

Repairs of type 301 stitching shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks, skipped stitches, run-offs, or bobbin runouts occur during sewing, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2 inch back of the end of the stitching. 1/

b. Thread breaks or two or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of 1/2 inch in back of the defective areas, continue over the defective area and continue a minimum of 1/2 inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials and restitching in the required manner. 1/

1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched.

3.10.1.3 Types 401, 502, 503, 515, 516, and 519 stitching.

Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.10.1.2a and 3.10.1.2b. Type 301 stitching may be used in repairing type 401 stitching.

3.10.1.4 Thread ends.

All thread ends shall be trimmed to 1/4 inch maximum length.

3.10.2 Buttonholes.

The buttonhole shall be straight-cut, purl or whip type and finished inside cut length shall be 1/2 to 9/16 inches long.

When purl-type buttonhole is used, the purling shall be on the outside of the overblouse, except for the neck closure buttonhole which shall have the purling on the inside of the overblouse. The stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric and the ends shall be securely tacked. All loose thread ends shall be trimmed or fused to within 1/8 inch of the tack.

3.10.3 Marking.

The parts of the overblouse shall be marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of marking may be used except:

1. Metal fastening devices

2. Sew-on type tickets.

3. Adhesive type tickets which leave traces of adhesive on the material after removal of the tickets.

3.10.4 Use of automated apparel equipment.

Automated apparel equipment may be used provided that the finished component conforms to the required size, dimensions and configurations. Patterns may be altered to accommodate the use of automated equipment as specified in 3.8.

3.10.5 Manufacturing requirements.

The overblouse shall be cut in accordance with the pattern. Component parts shall be cut from the same piece (dye lot) of fabric. The use of drill holes on visible parts of the shirt is prohibited.

3.10.6 Fusing.

A single layer of fusible interlining shall be fused to a single layer of basic material, on an electric dry heated conveyor or flathead type fusing press which has the capability of controlling and retaining pressure, dwell time, and temperature within an 8 hour period. For optimum results with a particular fusible style and press used, setting should be obtained from the manufacturer of the fusible interlining.

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3.10.7 Shoulder loops.

The shoulder loops shall finish smooth and flat and uniform in construction and placement. The buttonholes shall be clean cut and correctly positioned, sew one button on each shoulder through facing to correspond with the buttonhole in the shoulder loop. The shoulder loops shall measure 1-1/2 ± 1/8 inches at the narrow end and 1-7/8 ± 1/8 inches at the wide end. A horizontal buttonhole shall be made in the center of each loop 1/8 inch off-center tolerance with the inside cut end of the buttonhole 3/8 to 7/16 inch from point of loop (see 3.10.2). Position shoulder loop so point of loop is 1/4 to 3/8 inch forward of shoulder seam, 3/8 ± 1/16 inch from collar joining finished seam with front edge of loop at armhole opening 1 ± 1/16 inch forward of shoulder seam. Stitch 1/8 to 3/16 inch from raw edge of armhole opening.

3.10.8 Sleeve hem (Class 1).

The sleeve shall be hemmed last, after the sleeve is finished/formed. The bottom edge of sleeves shall be turned under according to notches on pattern with the raw edges turned in 1/4 inch. The finished hem shall be 1 inch wide and shall be straight-stitched. As an alternate, the sleeve may be hemmed prior to sleeve being finished/formed in which case the sleeve seams shall be bartacked with the seam turned over to one side. The bartack shall be approximately 3/16 inch in length and shall be placed 1/8 inch from bottom of hem across both sides of the seam.

3.10.9 Cuffs (Class 2).

The cuffs shall finish smooth and flat without distortion and shall be uniform in shape and size. The edge stitching shall be of uniform gauged. The cuffs shall finish 2-1/4 ± 1/8 inches wide and shall have rounded lower corners. The buttonholes shall be clean cut, well made and correctly positioned, and the stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric with the purling on the outside and no loose stitching. Make a horizontal buttonhole 5/8 ± 1/16 inch long, straight-cut, purl or whip type buttonhole in the center of each cuff (1/4 inch off center tolerance) with the end of the buttonhole 1/2 ± 1/8 inch from the edge. The purl side, if applicable, of the buttonhole shall face toward the outside of the cuff. Each cuff shall have two (2) buttons with the first button sewn 1/2 to 5/8 inch on center from cuff edge and the second button 7/8 to 1 inch, on center from the first button center.

3.10.10 Collar.

The collar shall be carefully joined to the overblouse with notches matching without twists, puckers or distorting the collar or overblouse. Collar ends shall be centered equidistant from center of overblouse front and shall open not less than 5/8 or more than 7/8 inch when collar is buttoned. The collar front run/points shall measure 2-7/8 ± 1/8 inches in length. The collar ends shall not be uneven in length by more than 1/8 inch. The collar shall be edge stitched with a 3/16 to 1/4 inch gauge.

3.10.11 Bottom hem.

Turn under bottom raw edge of hem, 1/4 inch and stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from folded edge. Turn up hem according to notches on pattern and tack back edge of facing to hem not less than 1/2 inch along overedge of facing. Blind stitch hem partially penetrating the body fabric. The stitching shall extend across the front facings, 3/4 to 1 inch from overedge stitching edge. The finished hem shall be 1-1/2 inches wide.

3.10.12 Front buttonholes.

Make five (5) vertical buttonholes on right front of overblouse through the facing centered over marks on pattern positioned 3/4 ± 1/16 inch from front edge (see 3.10.2). (NOTE: Buttonhole marks on pattern differ for long and short sleeve overblouse.) Make one (1) horizontal buttonhole at top on right front of overblouse through the facing with front inner cut edge of buttonhole 3/8 ± 1/16 inch from front edge and 1/4 ± 1/16 inch from top of facing. The buttonhole shall be parallel to the facing top.

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3.10.13 Front buttons.

The buttons shall be aligned and securely sewn in the center of the buttonholes ± 1/16 inch on front of overblouse and shoulder loops. Position the top button 1/2 ± 1/16 inch from front edge and for the class 1, short sleeve shall be sewn through the button stay only. The stitching shall not penetrate the front facing. For the class 2, long sleeve the button may be sewn through the button stay only or through the front facing. Sew remaining five buttons on the left front 3/4 ± 1/16 inch from the front edge through the front facing. Two (2) replacement buttons shall be furnished in a small plastic bag swift tacked to the left underarm seam.

3.10.14 Pressing and closing overblouse.

When required, touch-up fronts, backs, sleeve and bottom hems and collars before folding for packaging. Button overblouse fully.

3.11 Measurements.

The finished measurements of the overblouse shall conform to all the requirements shown in the following table.

Table III. Finished measurements (inches)

Sizes 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 Tol.

Collar 1/ 14-1/4 14-1/2 14-3/4 15 15-1/4 15-1/2 15-3/4 16 16-1/4 16-1/2 ± 1/4

1/2 Bust 2/ 18-1/2 19 19-1/2 20-1/4 21 21-3/4 22-3/4 23-3/4 24-3/4 25-3/4 ± 3/8

(label) 32-1/2 33-1/2 34-1/2 36 37-1/2 39 41 43 45 47

1/2 Sweep 3/ 18-7/8 19-3/8 19-7/8 20-5/8 21-3/8 22-1/8 23-1/8 24-1/8 25-1/8 26-1/8 ± 1/2

Sleeve Length, Class 1 4/ 3-3/4 3-3/4 3-3/4 3-3/4 3-3/4 3-3/4 3-3/4 3-3/4 3-3/4 3-3/4 ± 1/8

Sleeve Length, Class 2 5/

Short 16-1/2 16-1/2 16-1/2 16-1/2 16-1/2 16-1/2 16-1/2 16-1/2 16-1/2 16-1/2 ± 1/4

Regular 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 ± 1/4

Long 19-1/2 19-1/2 19-1/2 19-1/2 19-1/2 19-1/2 19-1/2 19-1/2 19-1/2 19-1/2 ± 1/4

X-Long 21 21 21 21 21 21 21 21 21 21 ± 1/4

XX-Long -- -- -- 22-1/2 22-1/2 22-1/2 22-1/2 22-1/2 22-1/2 22-1/2 ± 1/4

Back Length 6/

Short 21-5/8 21-3/4 21-7/8 22 22-1/8 22-1/4 22-3/8 22-1/2 22-5/8 22-3/4 ± 1/4

Regular 22-7/8 23 23-1/8 23-1/4 23-3/8 23-1/2 23-5/8 23-3/4 23-7/8 24 ± 1/4

Long 24-1/8 24-1/4 24-3/8 24-1/2 24-5/8 24-3/4 24-7/8 25 25-1/8 25-1/4 ± 1/4

X-Long -- -- 25-5/8 25-3/4 25-7/8 26 -- -- -- -- ± 1/4

Collar opening 7/ 5/8-7/8 5/8-7/8 5/8-7/8 5/8-7/8 5/8-7/8 5/8-7/8 5/8-7/8 5/8-7/8 5/8-7/8 5/8-7/8 ----

1/ Collar measurement shall be taken from center of button to front cut end of buttonhole along base of collar with collar in a flat position.

2/ Measure across front at armhole seam with overblouse buttoned and laid flat.

3/ Measure along bottom edge from folded edge to folded edge with overblouse buttoned.

4/ Measure from underarm seam, where the overblouse and sleeve join, along seam to bottom of sleeve.

5/ Measure from underarm seam, where the overblouse and sleeve join, along seam to bottom of cuff.

6/ Back length measurements taken along center back from collarstand/body seam to bottom of overblouse.

7/ Collar opening measurement taken with the overblouse buttoned, placed on a flat surface and without distorting collar, measure across collar from ends of collar at joining seam.

3.12 Workmanship.

The finished overblouse shall conform to the quality of product established by this specification. The overblouse shall be free from all defects which would affect its serviceability, appearance and uniformity.

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3.13 Toxicity.

The finished overblouse shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.7.1. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspection.

The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article inspection.

The first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1, shall be inspected for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship and dimensional requirements. The presence of excessive defects, as defined in the contract (see 6.2) or failure to pass any test shall be cause for rejection of the first article. The sample size will be specified in the procurement document (see 6.2). The sample unit shall be one overblouse and the lot size shall be expressed in units of overblouses.

4.3 Conformance inspection.

Conformance inspection shall include shade and appearance of all components, finished measurements in Table III and examination for defects in table IV. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4, as defined in the contract (see 6.2), except where otherwise indicated. The sample unit shall be one overblouse and the lot size shall be expressed in units of overblouses.

4.4 Inspection conditions.

In accordance with 4.1, components and end items shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this document or applicable procurement documents (see 6.2). The government reserves the right to inspect all components and end items to determine conformance to requirements.

4.5 End item visual examination.

Each overblouse shall be examined for the defects listed in table IV. The lot shall be expressed in units of overblouses. All fabric and garment defects shall be scored in accordance with Table IV which are clearly noticeable at normal viewing and affect serviceability and appearance of the finished overblouse. Material defects are defined in Section I of FED-STD-4. If needed, closer inspection will be performed to verify compliance to specification requirements. Shade shall be evaluated at a distance of 3 feet.

Table IV. End item visual defects

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Examine Defect Description

Material Hole, cut, tear, smash, misweave, missing, broken, or loose yarn, shade bar Color streaked, barred, mottled or not as specified; area of poor dye penetration extending more than 1/4 inch in any direction on outside part Knots greater than Sears Scale Level C (see 6.8) Slubs greater than Sears Scale Level D (see 6.8)

Stitches and seams Any seams open, puckered, distorted, pleated, wavy, twisted or irregular, not as specified, needle chew or irregular stitching Irregular stitching or stitching not as specified, loose tension resulting in loose seams Skipped or runoff stitches, ends of stitching not secured Visible mend, pleat or crease Needle perforations clearly visible on outside Any part of overblouse caught in an unrelated operation or stitching

Buttonholes Any omitted, misplaced, ragged edges, caught in other stitching or component, not secured through proper layers of fabric, not serving intended purpose, broken stitches Not specified size

Component parts Any component misplaced, omitted, broken or defective, or not attached as specified Button not aligned with corresponding buttonhole causing gap, puckers, or tightness Any component part not cut in accordance with specified pattern part

Interlining Bubbling, delamination, bleed through, wrinkling, puckering Any resin transfer Misplaced, omitted or added where not specified

Shade Shaded parts on the outside, any part noticeably shaded from the other parts or variation in shade within a part Component color not as specified

Cleanliness Any spot or stain clearly noticeable, five or more thread ends on outside not trimmed to 3/8 inch or less or not removed; odor affecting serviceability

Pressing Pressing omitted, wrinkles, creases, or pressing impressions not removed, scorched area

Workmanship Distorted parts or poor workmanship

Buttons Any button misplaced, omitted, broken or defective, not attached as specified, button not aligned with corresponding buttonhole causing gap, puckers, or tightness

Labels Omitted, incorrect, illegible, not attached where specified

Packaging Any overblouse not packaged in accordance with the contract or purchase order

4.6 End item dimensional examination.

The overblouses shall be examined for conformance to the dimensions specified in table III. Any dimension not within the specified tolerance shall be classified as a defect. The lot size shall be expressed in units of overblouses. The inspection and the AQL, expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

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4.7 Methods of inspection.

4.7.1 Toxicity test.

When required (see 6.2), an acute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted on laboratory animals. When the results of these studies indicate the (item) is not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in accordance with the Modified Draize Procedure (see 2.3). If the toxicity requirement (see 3.13) can be demonstrated with historical use data, toxicity testing may not be required (see 6.2).

4.8 Certificates of compliance.

When certificates of compliance for components and materials are submitted the Government reserves the right to inspect such items to determine the validity of the certificate.

4.9 Certification.

When overblouses are purchased individually or in lots, the supplier shall certify to the purchaser that the overblouses have been made in accordance with the quality of material and components established by this purchase description and shall include a label as follows:

"This garment is warranted to meet or exceed the standards of Purchase Description UQC S-02-06 and was produced under Certificate Number __________ from basic material warranted by the manufacturer to have been reproduced in accordance with the sample under current certificate."

"Q3 2007, 03/2007 or 03/07" (Examples for 3rd quarter 2007 age code)

4.10 Seam and fabric appearance evaluation.

The overblouse shall be evaluated for seam and fabric appearance in accordance with 4.10.1 through 4.10.3.

4.10.1 Apparatus.

The following apparatus is required for evaluating samples for seam and fabric appearance:

• AATCC Three Dimensional Smoothness appearance replicas.

• AATCC photographic seam smoothness replicas for evaluating single- and double- needle seams.

4.10.2 Laundering and conditioning procedure.

The sample overblouse shall be laundered five (5) complete cycles in accordance with AATCC Test Method 143. The laundering parameters are:

• Wash time: 10 minutes

• Machine Cycle: Permanent Press

• Water Temperature: 120 ± 5°F

• Rinse: Cold

• Tumble Dry: Permanent Press

(NOTE: During any interruptions between cycles and during conditioning and evaluation, the test overblouse shall be hung on wooden or plastic hangers and shall be buttoned at the front.)

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4.10.3 Evaluation of the appearance of fabric and seams.

After the test overblouse has been laundered and conditioned as specified in 4.10.2, the overblouse shall be evaluated for the characteristics listed in 3.9.1 in accordance with AATCC Test Method 88B for seam appearance and in accordance with AATCC 143 for fabric appearance. Each characteristic shall be assigned an average numerical value and the values recorded. A test failure shall be reported if any appearance rating falls below the minimum average of 3 ratings or any one observation rating falls below a rating of "3".

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging and packing.

Packaging and packing of the overblouse shall be in accordance with good commercial practice or as directed/required by the procurement activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use.

The overblouse is an optional purchase item and is procured by the Army and Air Force Exchange Service (AAFES).

The overblouse is intended for wear by female personnel of the Army as part of the Army Service Uniform (ASU).

6.2 Acquisition requirements.

Acquisition documents should specify the following:

• a. Title, number and date of this document.

• b. Class and sizes required (see 1.2).

• c. The specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2).

• d. When first article is required (see 3.1 and 4.2).

• e. Number of first article samples (see 4.2).

• f. Conformance inspection and acceptance quality limits (see 4.3).

• g. Inspection conditions (see 4.4).

• h. Toxicity requirement (see 4.7.1).

• i. Packaging (see 5.1).

6.3 First article.

When a first article is required (see 3.1), it will be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisions of FAR 52.209-4. The first article should be a pre-production sample. The contracting officer should specify the appropriate type of first article and the number of units to be furnished. The contracting officer should include specific instructions in all acquisitions documents regarding arrangements for selection, inspection and approval of the first article.

6.4 Standard samples.

For access to overblouse samples and patterns, address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal.

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6.5 Shade samples, purchase descriptions and patterns.

Request for shade samples, purchase descriptions, and patterns should be addressed to:

• U.S. Army Natick Soldier Center, RDECOM

• ATTN: AMSRD-NSC-WP-WA

• Kansas Street, Natick, MA 01760.

6.6 Seam appearance.

In order to avoid puckering and to produce the flattest seams possible, consideration must be given to the following:

• a. The needles used for all seams should be as fine as possible consistent with the size or diameter of the thread used.

• b. The throat plate hole should be no larger than necessary to permit free entry of the needle and to prevent flagging.

• c. The finest feed (approximately 18 teeth) possible should be used with a pressure foot to exactly match the shape and size of the feed. The face of the pressure foot (underside next to the feed on the machine) should be highly polished to eliminate roughness and reduce drag. Diamond shaped feed teeth have been used quite successfully.

• d. The lightest foot pressure should be used to prevent stretching of the top ply of material.

• e. In the safety stitch machine (515, 516, 519) the upper and lower trimming knives should be kept at peak sharpness to prevent "dragging" of the edge of the fabric.

• f. In stitch type 301 sewing, the bobbin tension should be adjusted so that when a full bobbin is placed in the bobbin case and threaded through the tension spring, the bobbin and case shall ride slowly down the thread when the free end of the thread is held in the vertical position. Needle tension should be adjusted after the bobbin tension to provide slightly more needle thread than bobbin thread in the stitch.

• g. When sewing with stitch type 401 (including the seaming row of the safety stitches), the thread ratio (needle and looper) should be adjusted to produce a stitch with 60 to 70 percent needle thread, and both needle and looper thread tension shall be held to the minimum.

• h. Thread take-up mechanism should be set on all machines to relieve as much tension as possible when forming the stitch. All thread contacts should be well polished and free of burrs, cuts, and rough spots.

6.7 Ultrasonic welding conditions.

The following ultrasonic welding conditions have been found to provide welds meeting the requirements of this document. These limits are furnished for guidance only. For optimum results with a particular ultrasonic machine used, specific machine settings should be obtained from the manufacturer of the ultrasonic equipment.

Parameter Minimum Maximum

Pressure, psi 35.0 40.0

Weld time, seconds 0.2 0.3

Down speed, inches/minute 10.0 12.0

Trigger pressure, pounds 8.0 10.0

Hold time, seconds 0.0 0.05

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6.8 Fabric defect scales.

Fabric Defect Replica Kits are available from Sears Roebuck and Company, 3333 Beverly Road, Dept 871HG, FC568B, Hoffman Estates, IL 60179. For information call (847) 286-8952.

Prepared by:

• U.S. Army Natick Soldier Center

• AMSRD-NSC-WP-WA

• Natick, MA 01760

Page 16 of 18GL-PD-11-07 | UQC S-02-06A

DEVIATION FOR PURCHASE DESCRIPTION(S)

GL/PD 11-06 Shirt, Man's GL/PD 11-07 Shirt, Women's UQC/S-02-06 Overblouse, Women's

Purpose: To identify changes, deletions and additions to the purchase descriptions for the Cadet Dress Shirts and Over Blouses affecting GL/PD 11-06, GL/PD 11-07, UQC/S-02-06.

GL/PD 11-06

A. The affected lines shall be struck over in the specification and are listed below.

• 1.2. Class 2 - Athletic fit.

• 1.3. Schedule of sizes - Type I, Class 2

• 1.4. Schedule of sizes - Type II, Class 2

• 3.5.1 Buttons. Shall conform to Type II; Class K, style 25, 19 line of V-B-871. The color of the button shall match the Army Shade White 521.

• 3.5.2 Thread. The thread used for stitching and seaming shall be cotton or polyester covered polyester core, Tex 31-35, 2 ply and Tex 25-30, 2 ply conforming to A-A-50199. The thread for the buttonholes and button sewing shall be Tex 31-35, 2 ply only. As an alternate the thread may be Tex 30, 2 ply and Tex 25, 2 ply conforming to MIL-T-43624. The colorfastness requirements shall apply. The color of the dyed thread shall match Army Shade White 521.

• 3.4.1 Basic material. The basic material for the shirt shall be a 4.5 (± 0.25) ounces per square yard polyester/cotton, herringbone cloth conforming to GL/PD 11-05. The color shall match Army Shade White 521.

• 3.6 Labels. The label shall be a white, nonwoven, spun-bonded polyester cloth or nonwoven mildew-resistant printed, acrylic coated, impregnated, 80/20 polyester/cellulose cloth, located on the outside right front bottom (as worn), 2 inches up from the finished bottom and 2-1/2 inches in from the folded edge and contain the item name, shade number, contractor's name, contract number, fiber content, NSN and the following laundering instructions:

Laundering instructions

1. Wash with moderately hot water (115°F) using soap or mild detergent.

a. For machine washing. Use permanent press cycle.

b. For hand washing. Do not wring or twist.

2. DO NOT STARCH, BLEACH OR USE FABRIC SOFTENER.

3. Dry in tumble dryer on warm or delicate setting. Remove immediately at end of drying. Shape and hang.

4. To drip dry, remove from water before last spin cycle. Shape and hang.

5. Touch up if required. Iron at a moderate or synthetic material heat setting.

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

B. The affected lines shall be changed to read as below:

• 3.5.1 Buttons. Shall conform to Type II; Class K, style 25, 19 line of V-B-871. The color of the button shall be the shade of BT, Cable 62001.

• 3.5.2 Thread. The thread for seaming, stitching, buttonholes and button sewing shall be cotton-covered polyester thread, ticket Nos. 70, conforming to MIL-T-43548 or spun polyester 70, 2 or 3-ply, conforming to class 1 or 2 of

MIL-T-43624.

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• 3.4.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be Burlington Industries Uniform Fabric Company, style 094607502506 US 02A. Color 12506 (USMA Cadet Gray).

• Weave: Plain

• Weight: 4.4 to 4.8 ounces per square yard

• Fiber Content: 80% Polyester, 20% Wool

• Ply of Yarn: 2 ply warp and filling

• Breaking Strength: 100 pounds in Warp and 80 pounds in filling (weft)

• Construction: minimum 65 ends per inch, 59 picks per inch.

• 3.6 Contents and Laundry Instruction label TYPE I and TYPE II. 80% Polyester/20% Wool. Machine wash in warm water with like colors. Non-Chlorine Bleach when needed. Tumble dry warm, arm iron when needed. Shirts may also be Dry Cleaned.

• 4. Labels. The contractor shall furnish identification labels on each shirt. The Identification Label is to be approximately 2-1/2" x 1-1/4" with the following format:

USMA, Cadet Services Div.

West Point, NY Name: ____________________ Date: ____________________

The Identification Label shall be positioned on the bottom left facing for Type I and Type II.

GL-PD-11-06 & GL/PD 11-07

• C. All effected lines, paragraphs or references shall be deleted when there is a reference to permanent creases.

• D. These deviations, additions and deletions are effective immediately.

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