Technical and Quality Requirements for ACU Trouser 06.30.2026.docx

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Technical and Quality Requirements for the Unisex ACU Trouser contracts DLA Troop Support

This document contains contract requirements applicable to all types and classes of Unisex ACU Trousers. This information supplements other contract requirements which may exist to cover similar topics.

This document is subject to revision via contract modification. Each section is marked with a date showing when that section was last updated. The entire document will be periodically reissued in full with all updates incorporated.

DLA TROOP SUPPORT C&T AQAR is also part of this contract and is referenced throughout this document.

END ITEM TECHNICAL REQUIREMENTS

ACU Trouser, GL/PD 14-05C This section last updated: 06.30.2026

Trouser, Army Combat Uniform, Permethrin Treated, Operational Camouflage Pattern (OCP) (PGC03977) shall be made in accordance with Type I, Class 2, Style A of GL/PD 14-05C.

Trouser, Army Combat Uniform, Flame Resistant, Permethrin Treated, Operational Camouflage Pattern (OCP) (PGC03819) shall be made in accordance with Type III, Class 2, Style A of GL/PD 14-05C.

Sewing pattern

The Contractor is responsible for adjusting patterns as necessary to anticipate dimensional changes and ensure that the finished garment meets the required finished measurements in Table VIII. (See paragraph 3.4.1.2 and 3.10)

Request pattern by style name and date to ensure that the correct pattern is provided by the government.

Trouser, Unisex Army Combat Uniform, PD14_05A Pattern Date: 9 June 2015

Interim changes to GL/PD 14-05C, February 14 2024:

Significant note: The permethrin treatment shall be applied to finished Class 2 trousers by a treatment facility approved by the Army for each item being treated.

The permethrin treatment shall be applied at the fabric level by a treatment facility approved by the Army for each item being treated.

Paragraph 3.6.1.1 Hem tape (drawstring).

Line 3: Delete “32 (± 1)” and substitute with “28 (± 1)”.

Delete Table II (Thread requirements, Type I trousers only), in its entirety and replace with the following:

“TABLE II. Thread requirements, Type I trousers only.

Thread (Tex size) 1/ Bobbin/ Looper Thread (Tex size) 1/

All seaming, stitching and bar tacking

Overedge stitching (raw edges)

1/ Needle and Bobbin/Looper shall use same Tex size thread”

Paragraph 3.8.2 Identification and care label (all types, styles and classes).

Line 3 and 7: Delete “right” and substitute with “left”.

Paragraph 3.8.3 Insect repellent label (Class 2 and 3 only, all types and styles).

Line 2 and line 9: Delete “left” and substitute with “right”.

Paragraph 3.8.3 Insect repellent label., Delete the insect repellent label text below this paragraph in its entirety and substitute with the following:

INSECT REPELLENT APPAREL

Refer to hangtag for more information Treater Name: XXXXXX 1/

EPA REG. NO.:

EPA EST. NO.:

THIS SECTION SHALL BE AS SPECIFIED IN MIL-PRF-32659

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

1/ Fill in appropriate vendor that has treated this garment

Paragraph 3.8.4 Hang tag, mosquito bite protection., Delete the insect repellent label text below this paragraph in its entirety and substitute with the following:

Insect Repellent Brand Name: INSECT REPELLENT APPAREL Contractor Name:

Contractor Address:

EPA REG. NO.:

EPA EST. NO.:

THIS SECTION SHALL BE AS SPECIFIED IN MIL-PRF-32659

THIS TAG NOT TO BE REMOVED EXCEPT BY CUSTOMER

TABLE VI. Seam and stitching types.

Row 9, Column 2, Line 1. Delete “Sba-2” and replace with “LSba-2”

Additional notes for GL/PD 14-05C:

1. Regarding paragraph 3.8.3 Insect protection/identification/care label (Class 2 only, all types and styles) and paragraph 3.8.4 Hang tag, insect protection (Class 2 only, all types and styles:

Where label description calls for "Insect Repellent Brand Name", the brand name shall be printed in standard text (to match the rest of the label) rather than the company's proprietary logo.

2. Wherever seam stitching or topstitching is meant to end at a bartack (such as at the side hanging pocket opening) stitching shall stop at the bartack within 1/8" tolerance. Side hanging pocket opening shall be measured as actual opening size rather than between bartacks. The opening shall not be made smaller due to stitching past the bartack.

3. All garment pieces shall be cut and assembled with the warp in line with the directional line markings (often labeled “Cut on warp”) as marked on the government-furnished pattern, including pockets and small pieces (see paragraph 3.10).

4. GL/PD 14-05C paragraph 3.10 states "The Government patterns provide a seam allowance of 1/2 inch for outseams, seat seams, and crotch seams, 1/4 inch allowance for hip pocket flaps and 3/8 inch allowance for all other seams", but “Minor modifications to the pattern are permitted where necessary to accommodate manufacture’s processes to include garment treatments and use of automatic equipment." Ensure that all finished dimensional requirements are met.

5. Reference GL/PD 14-05C Table VI, Waistband attachment: regardless of attachment method used, stitching shall continue across fly to edge of trouser front.

6. Stamps may be used in the interior of the garment for vendor tracking or processing purposes.

When stamps are used, they shall be positioned so that they are not visible from the outside of the garment when worn. Any bleed-through or positioning of the stamp that makes it visible from the outside of the garment when worn is considered a major defect #154. The underside of flaps and the space between the pocket top and pocket flap are considered visible when worn because they will be visible when opened.

7. For garments manufactured by a subcontractor, the Identification and Care label (see paragraph 3.8.2,3.8.2.1 and 3.8.2.2), “Contractor Name” section shall read: "Manufactured by (subcontractor name) for (prime contractor name)". Identification and Care label shall state whether the uniform is Style A (unisex) or Style B (female).

8. All specifications outlined in GL/PD 14-05C shall be the most current specification listed on Assist unless outlined in this document.

Interim changes to reference documents This section last updated: 05.08.2025

DLA Troop Support C&T AQAR Revision 1, dated August 2021

**Special note: Contractors shall ensure that blocks 2 and 15 of the form DD1222 are updated to reflect the correct information. Historically, both blocks contained the information of the DCMA QAR and their stamp/signature. When contractor's representative samples, these blocks shall include the contractor's representative's information. Block 23 shall still include the DCMA QAR to receive the results of the report even though they may not be sampling the material to be tested.

DELETE WITH NO REPLACEMENT

2.1.3.2. Combining Manufacturing Lots in Treated Lot. Multiple completed Manufacturing Lots may be combined into a single Treated Lot as long as the garments being treated have the same print, type of fabric and garment style. Each Manufacturing Lot shall be independently counted for Government Source Sampling Testing purposes.

DELETE Para 2.1.3.3 in its entirety and replace with:

2.1.3.1. Multiple Treated Lots from a Manufacturing Lot. A “Treated Lot” size may differ from the “Manufacturing Lot” size. A single Manufacturing Lot may be treated in different Treated Lots. While the splitting of Manufacturing Lots should be minimized as much as possible, when a single Manufacturing Lot is too large to be treated as one Treated Lot, it may be treated in more than one Treated Lot. In this event, each Treated Lot is sampled individually for Government Source Sampling Testing purposes. Test results and full traceability must be maintained in association with each lot.

Samples for all Government Source Sampling Testing or inspection shall be pulled by the Government QAS from the completed Manufacturing Lot (or a partial quantity of the completed Manufacturing Lot, as described below) which has been assembled for final presentation to the Government.

MIL-PRF-32659

Dated 30 Jul 2020 Vector Protection Treatment

V-B-871F - Button, Sewing, Hole and Button Staple (plastic) CHANGES TO V-B-871F, BUTTON, SEWING HOLE, AND BUTTON STAPLE (PLASTIC), APPLICABLE TO THIS CONTRACT ONLY:

Paragraph 2.2 Other publications.

Delete American Society for Testing and Material (ASTM) and change to ASTM INTERNATIONAL.

Delete ASTM’s contact address in its entirety and change to the following:

(Copies of documents are available online at www.astm.org or from the ASTM INTERNATIONAL, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959.)

Paragraph 2.3 Order of Precedence. Add “Unless otherwise stated herein or in the contract,” to the beginning of the paragraph.

FED-STD-4 - Glossary of Fabric Imperfections

ADDITIONAL INFO FOR FED-STD-4 GLOSSARY OF FABRIC IMPERFECTIONS:

REVISION B: 7/29/64; AMENDMENT 2: 9/12/75

NOTICE 1, DATED 10/1/87.

DEV. TO FED. STD. 4B & AM. 2, PAGE 2, SEC.I. PARA. 2.1. IN IMPERFECTION COMMERCIAL TERMINOLOGY AND GLOSSARY NO. COLUMNS, AFTER SHADE BAR - 14 INSERT: "SHADED CLOTH-61B".

PAGE 8 PARA. 3.4, GLOSSARY NO. "61A- OFF SHADE", IN "DEFINITION" COLUMN, DELETE ": SHADED SIDE TO SIDE, SIDE TO CENTER OR END TO END".

ADD NEW GLOSSARY NO. "SHADED CLOTH "61B-SHADED CLOTH (SHADED SIDE TO SIDE, SIDE TO CENTER OR END TO END) WITH THE FOLLOWING DEFINITION: "COLOR DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE RESPECTIVE CLOTH AREAS".

PAGE 22, SECTION III, PARAGRAPH 2.1, IN "IMPERFECTION COMMERCIAL TERMINOLOGY" AND GLOSSARY NO." COLUMNS, AFTER "SHADE BAR-15" INSERT: "SHADED CLOTH - 62A"

PAGE 27, PARAGRAPH 3.4, GLOSSARY NO. "62-OFF SHADE" IN "DEFINITION" COLUMN DELETE: "SHADED SIDE TO SIDE, SIDE TO CENTER OR END TO END".

ADD NEW GLOSSARY NO, "62A-SHADED CLOTH (SHADED SIDE TO SIDE, SIDE TO CENTER OR END TO END)" WITH THE FOLLOWING DEFINITION: "COLOR DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE RESPECTIVE CLOTH AREAS."

DEVIATION FROM FED. STD. 4B, AND AMEND 2:

PG 2, SECTION 1, PARA.2.1, IN "IMPERFECTION COMMERCIAL TERMINOLOGY" AND "GLOSSARY NUMBER" COLUMNS, AFTER "SHADE BAR-14", INSERT: "SHADED CLOTH 61B".

PG 8, PARA.3.4, GLOSSARY NUMBER "61A-OFF SHADE" IN "DEFINITION" COLUMN, DELETE, "SHADED SIDE TO SIDE, SIDE TO CENTER OR END TO END".

ADD NEW GLOSSARY NO."61B SHADED CLOTH "SHADED SIDE TO SIDE, SIDE TO CENTER OR END TO END" WITH THE FOLLOWING DEFINITION; "COLOR DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE RESPECTIVE CLOTH AREAS."

PAGE 22, SECTION III, PARAGRAPH 2.1, IN "IMPERFECTION COMMERCIAL TERMINOLOGY" AN GLOSSARY NO." COLUMNS, AFTER "SHADE BAR-15" INSERT: "SHADED CLOTH - 62A"

PAGE 27, PARAGRAPH 3.4, GLOSSARY NO "62-OFF SHADE" IN "DEFINITION" COLUMN DELETE: "SHADED SIDE TO SIDE, SIDE TO CENTER OR END TO END".

ADD NEW GLOSSARY NO, "62A-SHADED CLOTH (SHADED SIDE TO SIDE, SIDE TO CENTER OR END TO END)" WITH THE FOLLOWING DEFINITION: "COLOR DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE RESPECTIVE CLOTH AREAS."

A-A-50198A - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION FOR A-A-50198A

NO ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

A-A-50199C - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-Covered Note new revision A-A-50199 Rev C Dated 28 Apr 25

NO ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

A-A-55195 - Thread, Para-Aramid, Spun, Intermediate Modulus

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION FOR A-A-55195:

NO ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

A-A-55217- Thread, Aramid, Spun Staple

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION FOR A-A-55217:

NO ADDITIONAL INFO

A-A-59826 - Thread, Nylon

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION FOR THREAD, NYLON, A-A-59826 DATED 03 MARCH 2009:

Thread, Nylon, A-A-59826, dated 03 March 2009, has replaced Specification V-T-295E dated 1 August 1985.

MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use)

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION FOR MIL-DTL-32075:

MIL-DTL-32075, LABEL FOR CLOTHING, EQUIPAGE, AND TENTAGE, GENERAL USE REPLACES DDD-L-20

INTERIM SPECIFICATION CHANGES TO MIL-DTL-32075:

Page 4, para. 3.3.5, after "Type III or IV, Class 4 of" delete "DDD-L-20" and replace "MIL-DTL 32075,".

Page 6, TABLE I, "Physical requirements of the Type VI finished label" Under "Tearing strength" delete: "(lb.) minimum" and substitute: "(gms) minimum"

Page 12, Para 3.3.2.17, after "NSN" add "and the Universal Product Code (UPC) supplied by the Government, for all NSN"s."

MIL-DTL-5038 - Tape, Textile and Webbing, Textile, Reinforcing Nylon

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION FOR MIL-DTL-5038:

NO ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

CHANGES TO MIL-DTL-5038J, TAPE, TEXTILE AND WEBBING, TEXTILE, REINFORCING, NYLON, (NOVEMBER 5, 1996), APPLICABLE TO THIS CONTRACT ONLY:

PARAGRAPH 2.3 NON-GOVERNMENT PUBLICATIONS. DELETE TINES 1-4 AND CHANGE TO THE FOLLOWING:

2.3 NON-GOVERNMENT STANDARDS AND OTHER PUBLICATIONS. THE FOLLOWING DOCUMENTS FORM A PART OF THIS DOCUMENT TO THE EXTENT SPECIFIED HEREIN. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, THE ISSUES OF THE DOCUMENTS ARE THOSE CITED IN THE SOLICITATION OR CONTRACT.

DELETE AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIAL (ASTM) AND CHANGE TO ASTM INTERNATIONAL.

DELETE ALL TEST METHODS (61, 16, 11 IA) UNDER AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC) AND CHANGE TO THE FOLLOWING:

AATCC TEST METHOD 16 - COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT

AATCC TEST METHOD 61 - COLORFASTNESS TO LAUNDERING: ACCELERATED

AATCC TEST METHOD ILL -WEATHER RESISTANCE OF TEXTILES: EXPOSURE TO DAYLIGHT AND WEATHER

AATCC EVALUATION PROCEDURE 1, GRAY SCALE FOR COLOR CHANGE

AATCC EVALUATION PROCEDURE 2, GRAY SCALE FOR STAINING

AATCC EVALUATION PROCEDURE 8, AATCC 9-STEP CHROMATIC TRANSFERENCE SCALE

AATCC EVALUATION PROCEDURE 9, VISUAL ASSESSMENT OF COLOR DIFFERENCES OF TEXTILES

PARAGRAPH 2.4 ORDER OF PRECEDENCE.

ADD TO THE BEGINNING OF THE FIRST SENTENCE: "UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED HEREIN OR IN THE CONTRACT,".

PARAGRAPH 3.1 SAMPLES. DELETE LAST SENTENCE IN ITS ENTIRETY WITHOUT REPLACEMENT.

PARAGRAPH 3.4.3 MATCHING. DELETE IN IT'S ENTIRETY AND CHANGE TO THE FOLLOWING:

3.4.3 MATCHING. THE TAPE AND WEBBING SHALL BE A GOOD MATCH TO THE COLOR STANDARD SAMPLE WHEN TESTED AS SPECIFIED IN 4.3.3.1.

PARAGRAPH 3.4.4, LINE 3 COLORFASTNESS. DELETE "THE END ITEM TESTING TABLE" AND CHANGE TO "TABLE II".

PARAGRAPH 3.5.1, LINE 2 RESISTANCE TO LIGHT AND HEAT. DELETE "OPTION A" AND CHANGE TO "OPTION 1 OR 3".

4.3.3 TABLE II, THIRD ROW:

LAUNDERING, COLUMN 3, ADD "7/" BESIDE "2/"

LIGHT, COLUMN 1, ADD (20hrs OR 85kJ)

LIGHT, COLUMN 3, DELETE "OPTION A" AND CHANGE TO "OPTION 1 OR 3" 8/

ADD OR DELETE THE FOLLOWING FOOTNOTES TO THE END OF TABLE II AS NOTED.

4.3.3 TABLE II, FOOTNOTE 5/ LINES 2 AND 6. DELETE THE "A" AFTER "111" WITHOUT REPLACEMENT.

ADD FOOTNOTE 7/ RATED USING THE AATCC EVALUATION PROCEDURE 1, GRAY SCALE FOR COLOR CHANGE AND AATCC EVALUATION PROCEDURE 2, GRAY SCALE FOR STAINING.

ADD FOOTNOTE 8/ RATED USING THE AATCC EVALUATION PROCEDURE 1, GRAY SCALE FOR COLOR CHANGE.

ADD PARAGRAPH, 4.3.3.1 AFTER THE FOOTNOTES

4.3.3.1 VISUAL SHADE MATCHING EVALUATION. THE COLOR AND APPEARANCE OF THE TAPES AND WEBBING SHALL MATCH THE STANDARD SAMPLE WHEN VIEWED USING THE AATCC EVALUATION PROCEDURE 9, OPTION A OR C, WITH SOURCES SIMULATING ARTIFICIAL DAYLIGHT D75 ILLUMINANT WITH A COLOR TEMPERATURE OF 7500 (+200)degrees K ILLUMINATION OF 100 (± 20) FOOT CANDLES, AND SHALL BE A GOOD MATCH TO THE STANDARD SAMPLE UNDER INCANDESCENT LAMPLIGHT AT 2856 (+200)degrees K.

MIL-W-5664 - Webbing, Textile Elastic (Style B)

NO ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

MIL-PRF-32635A- Cloth, Flame Resistant Note new revision MIL-PRF-32635 Rev A 20 Nov 2023

NO ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

MIL-DTL-44436 - Cloth, Camouflage Pattern, Wind Resistant Poplin, Nylon/Cotton Blend Note new revision MIL-DTL-44436 Rev D Dated 10 Mar 20

NO ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.

GL/PD-10-08B - Patch Kit, Integrated, Flame Resistant (IPK) Note new revision dated 14 October 2014

ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 - American National Standard Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION FOR ANSI/ASQC Z1.4:

Updated version: ANSI/ASQ Z1.4-2008.

SAE-AMS-STD-595 - Colors Used in Government Procurement

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION FOR SAE-AMS-STD-595:

COPIES OF SAE-AMS-STD-595 CAN BE OBTAINED FROM:

GENERAL SERVICES ADMINISTRATION - FEDERAL SUPPLY SERVICE BUREAU

SPECIFICATION SECTION, SUITE 8100

470 EAST L'ENFANT PLAZA, SW

WASHINGTON, DC 20407

PHONE (202) 619-8925.

Commercial sources are also available

GOVERNMENT LABORATORY TESTING OF CLOTH AND END ITEMS

The use of electronic submission of DD form 1222 is authorized.

NOTE: AQAR Section 3.2 Government Acceptance Testing states that “Unless otherwise stated in the contract, testing performed at the DLA PTC for acceptance purposes will be completed in forty five (45) calendar days” – CURRENT contracts state 30 days and will remain applicable for all current and future BDU items.

Physical testing of materials

Refer to DLA TROOP SUPPORT C&T AQAR for more information on the Source Sampling program (also see updates to this in the “Lot formation and testing for components” section of this document).

For physical (non-shade) testing, in accordance with DLA TROOP SUPPORT C&T AQAR , Part I, the contractor's approved qualified laboratory will be required to forward a completed test report for each lot of cloth to the address below. The QAR will forward the completed DD form 1222. Samples for physical testing will only be forwarded upon request to:

DLA Product Testing Center Analytical 700 Robbins Avenue Philadelphia, PA 19111 Attn: Bldg 5D Email: paactlab@dla.mil

End item testing

In accordance with DLA TROOP SUPPORT C&T AQAR , Part 1, section 6. (7), all end item test reports shall be provided to the Government for review under the source sampling program.

For ACU Trouser end item testing requirements, GL/PD 14-05C, Table XI and terms of contract.

For ACU Coat end item testing requirements, see GL/PD 14-04B, Table IX and terms of contract.

All contractor test reports for permethrin testing shall be sent electronically to:

katherine.a.barton.civ@army.mil bdu_gcreports@dla.mil

All contractor test reports for other end item tests shall be sent electronically to:

paactlab@dla.mil

SHADE EVALUATION REQUIREMENTS

Shade standards applicable to ACU items

The color and appearance of the [item] shall match the standard sample when viewed using the AATCC EP 9, Option C, (see 6.X) with a primary light source simulating the spectral quality of average daylight, CIE illuminant D65, with a color temperature of 6500 (±200) Kelvin (K) illumination of 100 (±20) foot candles. Alternatively, the color and appearance of the [item] shall match the standard sample with a primary light source simulating artificial daylight, CIE Illuminant D75, with a color temperature of 7500K (±200) illumination of 100 (±20) foot candles in lieu of D65. (See 6.X.X). The [item] shall also be a good match to the standard sample with a secondary source simulating the spectral quality of incandescent lamplight, CIE Illuminant A, with a color temperature of 2856K (±200).

NOTES:

A. All prime contractors of current and pending contracts must verify that DD1222s from suppliers indicate whether D65 or D75 light source was used for shade verification. If the light source is not indicated on the DD1222, D65 will be assumed by the Government Shade Laboratory.

B. Visual shade evaluation failures viewed under D65 shall not be reevaluated under a D75 primary light source.

C. All other terms and conditions remain unchanged.

Operational Camouflage Pattern (OCP) Garments

Standard sample for Cloth, Operational Camouflage Pattern, wind resistant poplin, nylon/cotton blend, conforming to class 14 (wrinkle free) of MIL-DTL-44436 is available on roll no. 3963 and is applicable for Shade, Appearance, and IR Spectral Reflectance. This standard shall apply before and after permethrin treatment, when applicable.

Standard sample for Cloth, Flame Resistant, conforming to MIL-PRF-32635, Type III, Class 3, Operational Camouflage Pattern (OCP) shall be Standard Roll # 3936 and is applicable Shade, Appearance, Colorfastness and IR Spectral Reflectance. This standard shall apply before and after permethrin treatment, when applicable.

In order to properly assess shade on OCP material , the government will need 24” lengthwise x 30” widthwise shade swatches. This may deviate from current practices for other camouflage printed materials. Samples smaller than the required measurement of 24” x 30” will not be accepted for evaluation.

For fabrics printed with OCP, all color evaluations to include visual, spectral reflectance and colorfastness are to be performed on the solid color area and not the tonal area.

Standard sample for Fastener Tapes, Hook and Loop, Synthetic, Tan 499, conforming to Type 2 of A-A-55126, is available on roll #3822 and is applicable for shade, appearance, colorfastness and spectral reflectance. Loop color in standard is applicable for both hook and loop.

Unless otherwise indicated, shade for visible components on OCP garments shall conform to Tan 499. The standard for this shade is color chip #20180 from SAE-AMS-STD-595.

Shade evaluation of cloth

General

(a) SAMPLING: Not withstanding any current provisions of the fabric specification, the following shade evaluation shall apply to this solicitation. Swatches will be cut by the Contractor from those pieces or rolls selected by the Government representative in accordance with the table below. Swatches shall be 4 by 24 inches for single color cloth, 12 inches by full width for most multi-colored camouflage cloth, and 24 inches by full width for Operational Camouflage Pattern cloth.

The Government representative (QAR) shall ensure that each piece is cut in half and identify each half with the piece number from which it was cut. One set of swatches (one side of the roll from each of the full-width sampled rolls) and the tally list of piece numbers for each roll from the lot shall be forwarded to the DLA Product Testing Center for evaluation. The remaining swatches shall be retained at the plant for use by the Quality Assurance Representative (QAR).

If one or more of the shade swatches submitted are found unacceptable, the entire lot shall be rejected. A lot that was rejected for shade shall be screened and all pieces in the lot defective for shade shall be removed before such a lot is resubmitted. Resubmitted lots shall again be subjected to the sampling and shade evaluation prescribed herein. This requirement does not negate the Contractor's responsibility to perform shade evaluation prior to submittal of a lot to the Government. Each roll of fabric acceptable for shade from which a shade piece has been removed shall be cut by the Contractor from selvage to selvage so that there will be no evidence of the shade piece cut-out. The portion removed shall not be included in the yardage indicated on the piece ticket. If the Contractor reworks and resubmits rolls originally rejected for shade or finish, it shall not combine the rejected rolls with other lots or with lots rejected for other causes. Such rejected rolls shall be combined to form one resubmitted lot. Each piece shall retain its original piece number, suffixed with an "X". The lot number shall also be suffixed with an "X".

(b) When Section 3 of the fabric specification contains a specific requirement for uniformity of shade and when the standard sample is referenced for uniformity of shade, the swatches submitted in accordance with (a) above shall also be evaluated for uniformity of shade.

(c) The Contractor shall transmit the swatches to:

For OCP NYCO (MIL-DTL-44436D) and FRACU (MIL-PRF-32635A):

DLA Product Testing Center Analytical 700 Robbins Avenue Philadelphia, PA 19111

Email: ptc_a.shade@dla.mil

When sending shade swatches to DLA do the following:

· Send a hard copy of the DD1222 with the swatches in the mail

The letter shall indicate "FOR GOVERNMENT SHADE APPROVAL" and contain the following information:

(1) Name of prime Contractor.

(2) Contract number.

(3) Nomenclature.

(4) Government inspection lot number.

(5) Number of swatches being submitted.

(6) QAR's name.

(7) Name and address of the QAR's base plant.

(8) Piece number of standard sample cited in contract.

(9) Tally list with piece numbers (not applicable to case swatching).

(d) If any swatches are rejected by the DLA Product Testing Center--Analytical for shade, those pieces from which the rejected swatches were cut will be removed from the lot. Each piece acceptable for shade from which a shade swatch has been removed shall be cut by the Contractor from selvage to selvage so that there will be no evidence of the shade swatch cut-out. The portion removed shall not be included in the yardage indicated on the piece ticket.

(e) If the Contractor reworks and resubmits pieces originally rejected for shade or finish, it shall not combine the rejected pieces with normal production or with lots rejected for other causes. Such pieces shall be combined to form one resubmitted lot. Each piece shall retain its original piece number, suffixed with an "X". The lot number shall also be suffixed with an "X".

2-Stage Shade Evaluation program for Permethrin treated ACU material

Applicable for Class 2 ACU Coats and Trousers only

The following describes the staged process for shade evaluation of cloth to be permethrin treated after garment manufacture.

Samples and DD1222s shall be sent to DLA Product Testing Center at the address in section “C” above.

Stage I - OPTIONAL.

When the Contractor opts for Stage I shade evaluation is, the QAR at the Mill is responsible for ensuring that a 24 inch by full width for Operational Camouflage Pattern (OCP) header is cut from the appropriate number of rolls in accordance with the above sampling plan.

The QAR shall ensure that the header is cut in half and identify each half with the piece number from which it was cut. One set of swatches (one half header from each of the sampled rolls) and the tally list of piece numbers for each roll from the lot shall be forwarded to the DLA Product Testing Center for evaluation. The remaining swatches shall be retained at the plant for use by the Quality Assurance Representative (QAR). The QAR at the Mill shall complete a DD1222 in accordance with traditional procedures. If the given lot passes or fails Stage I, the fabric lot may move onto Stage II Evaluation at the Prime Contractor’s risk.

If Stage I evaluation pass or fails, the lot may proceed to Stage II. No DD3440 will be issued for a failing Stage I.

Stage II.

Prime Contractor shall notify the Mill which Permethrin Treatment Facility will perform final permethrin treatment. This is where the samples must be treated for Stage II.

The QAR at the Mill is responsible for ensuring that a 24 inch by full width (for OCP) header is cut from each of the appropriate number of rolls in accordance with the above sampling plan. This is in addition to the header cut for the optional Stage I, if Stage I applies. The QAR at the Mill shall arrange for a set of identifying tags for each roll to be forwarded to the applicable Permethrin Treatment Facility along with each header. Each header shall be cut in half and each piece shall be identified with the piece number from which it was cut.

After permethrin treatment, one set of swatches (one half header from each of the sampled rolls) and the tally list of piece numbers for each roll from the lot shall be forwarded to the DLA Product Testing Center for evaluation. The remaining swatches shall be retained at the plant for use by the Quality Assurance Representative (QAR). The QAR at the Mill shall complete a DD1222 in accordance with traditional procedures.

Pieces sent to the DLA Product Testing Center for evaluation shall be no smaller 24 x 30 for OCP and shall have the identifier tags securely attached.

The QAR at the treatment facility shall complete a DD1222 using the same lot and sample numbers as originally used to represent the lot in Stage I; Blocks 2 and 4 shall be updated to reflect the contact information for the treatment facility and their QAR, Block 8 shall state “Stage II Shade,” and Block 13 shall contain the name of the Mill. If Stage I evaluation was done, the lab report number assigned by DLA Product Testing Center for the Stage I DD1222 must be clearly placed in block 16.

The Prime Contractor shall not cut the fabric until the Stage II has been approved via a DD 1222, or failed and accepted under a waiver via a DD 3440.

Before Contractor is permitted to cut cloth, passing/waived DD1222/DD3440 from Stage II evaluation is required.

Shade evaluation of components *Shade evaluation of components, for Tan 499, is hereby waived indefinitely. The contracting officer is able to require government shade evaluation at any point in time going forward on subject contract.

Initial purchase of the components below shall be submitted to DLA Product Testing Center for evaluation of shade. A "component" in this case means a specific size or type of material from a particular supplier; different sizes or types constitute different components and each size or type from each supplier should be separately sampled and evaluated, except as described in "Swatching for fastener tape" below. Upon receipt of a passing result for each component, there shall be no further requirement for government shade evaluation of that component for the duration of the contract, unless specifically requested by the contracting officer. In the case of failing results with waiver granted, additional testing shall be as directed by the contracting officer. Shade evaluation requirement for these listed components applies for all types and classes of ACU; material that is passed or waived may be used on any type or class of ACU under that contract, as permitted by specification. The Government reserves the right to require testing of individual components at any time. Shade evaluation of every lot of basic material is required for the life of the contract.

Trousers (GL/PD 14-05C):

Tape for FR Identification marker (Type III only) – paragraph 3.5.1.2 Buttons - paragraph 3.5.4

Coats (GL/PD 14-04B):

Slide fasteners – paragraphs 3.5.1.1 (any one length), 3.5.1.2, and 3.7.4.2 Tape for IFF tab cover and FR Identification marker (Type III only) – paragraph 3.5.2 Buttons - paragraph 3.5.8 Loop fastener tape for sleeve pocket – paragraph 3.5.3

Components are subject to 1-stage shade evaluation only.

Component materials packaged as rolls (6 inch pieces cut from rolls) shall be sampled as follows:

Component materials packaged as each shall be sampled as follows:

Swatching for fastener tape:

Preference is for fastener tape to be sampled and submitted through the Supplier rather than the Prime Contractor. Any lot of fastener tape submitted for shade evaluation under a DD1222 must represent only one Prime Contractor. However, fastener tape may be sampled from the original master roll (before slitting) as long as traceability is maintained. Narrower widths of fastener tape cut from the master roll need not be re-submitted for shade testing, but a secondary DD1222 shall be prepared and attached to such cuts reflecting the original DD1222 information.

Insect Repellent Treatment Verification Program requirement for garments and textiles for the Department of Defense

This program of government verification applies to contract production of garments and textiles treated with insect repellent for use by the Department of Defense.

Definitions:

Garment or Fabric Type: Item description as designated in PD or military specification including designations of Type, Style, Class and/or Cloth Classification. Garments or fabric of different Types require separate verification testing, to include FAT, Initial Verification Testing and Follow-up Verification Testing for each contract.

Qualified Testing Facility: Laboratory which has been qualified by the government to perform insect repellent content testing in accordance with MIL-PRF-32659 and listed in section 52.246-9032 of the contract.

Manufacturing Lot: A completed homogenous production run of a fixed quantity of manufactured garments or yardage of fabric assembled into an identifiable lot. Manufacturing Lots shall be numbered consecutively over the course of a contract and Manufacturing Lot numbers shall not be repeated within a contract.

Treatment Lot: A homogenous treatment production run of a fixed quantity of garments or fabric yardage treated with insect repellent under identical conditions in a continuous manner without change of process conditions or interruption for treatment of other Treatment Lot(s). Treatment Lots shall be numbered consecutively over the course of a contract and Treatment Lot numbers shall not be repeated within a contract (such as when dividing Manufacturing Lots into multiple Treatment Lots). The Treatment Lot Number is entered as the “Lot/Batch Number” in Box 18 of the DD1222 when samples are submitted to the government laboratory for testing. The size of a treatment lot shall meet the requirements specified in MIL-PRF-32659. Treatment lots shall contain no more than one unique Manufacturing Lot.

FAT Verification Testing: Testing of first Treatment Lot of a garment or fabric type treated for a contract. Required when specified in acquisition documents. Testing is performed in accordance with MIL-PRF-32659.

Initial Verification Testing: Testing performed on treated garments or fabric to verify insect repellent content in the textile by qualified government laboratory on the first Five (5) Treatment Lots of a garment or fabric type produced for a contract. Testing is performed in accordance with requirements specified in MIL-PRF-32659.

Follow-up Verification Testing:

Insect repellent content testing of all Treatment Lots of a garment or fabric type for a contract in accordance with MIL-PRF-32659 by a Qualified Testing Facility and Insect repellent content testing of one Treatment Lot per every Ten (10) Treatment Lots of a garment or fabric type for a contract in accordance with MIL-PRF-32659 at a qualified government laboratory.

Government Laboratory: Shipping address for samples to be tested by government laboratory:

Combat Capabilities Development Command – Soldier Center 15 General Greene Ave, Building 5, Whittlesey Bldg ATTN: Textile Materials Evaluation Branch, Room S127B Natick, MA 01760-5019

First Article Testing (FAT)

Reference paragraph 4.2 in MIL-PRF-32659 for detailed requirements for FAT.

Testing shall be conducted concurrently by the Qualified Test Facility and by the Qualified Government Laboratory. The Contractor’s Qualified Testing Facility shall send results to the Government laboratory for correlation. Government results shall determine final acceptability of the test. In the event of disagreement between Contractor testing and Government test results, the Government shall investigate the cause of the disparity.

Testing for the FAT shall consist of the following (paragraphs referenced from MIL-PRF-32659):

1) AI Content (Gas Chromatography/Mass Spectrometry test)

a) Requirement as stated in the item specification

b) Method as stated in MIL-PRF-32659, 4.7.1

c) Samples will be tested initially (treated unlaundered sample) and after 1, 20 and 50 launderings.

2) %Bite Protection Test

a) Requirement as stated in the item specification.

b) Method as stated in MIL-PRF-32659, 4.7.2

c) Samples will be tested after 1, 20 and 50 launderings.

d) Shade conformance

e) Shade to match selected standard after treatment

3) Within 45 days after the Government laboratory receives the first article samples, the laundered swatches (pre-treated fabric or garment samples) will be sent to the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) for % Bite protection testing. Within 180 calendar days of the USDA receiving the laundered swatches (pre-treated fabric or garment samples) the testing will be completed, and results will be compiled into a final report by the government laboratory. The Contracting Officer shall notify the Contractor, in writing, of the conditional approval, approval, or disapproval of the first article. The notice of conditional approval or approval shall not relieve the Contractor from complying with all requirements of the specifications and all other terms and conditions of this contract. A notice of conditional approval shall state any further action required of the Contractor. A notice of disapproval shall cite reasons for the disapproval. If for some reason the % Bite Protection testing cannot be completed in 180 days, the contractor will be notified of a delay in test result.

4) If the first article is disapproved, the Contractor, upon Government request, shall submit an additional first article for testing. After each request, the Contractor shall make any necessary changes, modifications, or repairs to the first article or produce and treat another lot for FAT. All costs related to these re-tests are to be borne by the Contractor, including all costs for additional tests following disapproval. The Contractor shall furnish any additional first article to the Government under the terms and conditions and within the time specified by the Government. The Government shall act on this first article within the time limit specified in paragraph 3) of this clause. The Government reserves the right to require an equitable adjustment of the contract price for any extension of the delivery schedule or for any additional costs to the Government related to these tests.

5) If the Contractor fails to deliver any first article on time, or the Contracting Officer disapproves any first article, the Contractor shall be deemed to have failed to make delivery within the meaning of the Default clause of this contract.

6) Unless otherwise provided in the contract, the Contractor:

i) May deliver the approved first article as a part of the contract quantity, provided it meets all contract requirements for acceptance and was not consumed or destroyed in testing; and

ii) Shall remove and dispose of any first article from the Government test facility at the Contractor’s expense.

7) If the Government does not act within the time specified in paragraph 3) or 4) of this clause, the Contracting Officer shall, upon timely written request from the Contractor, equitably adjust under the Changes clause of this contract the delivery or performance dates and/or the contract price, and any other contractual term affected by the delay.

8) The Contractor is responsible for providing operating and maintenance instructions, spare parts support, and repair of the first article during any first article test.

9) Before first article approval, the acquisition of materials or components for, or the commencement of production of, the balance of the contract quantity is at the sole risk of the Contractor. Before first article approval, the costs thereof shall not be allocable to this contract for:

(1) progress payments, or

(2) termination settlements if the contract is terminated for the convenience of the Government.

(i) The Government may waive the requirement for first article approval test where supplies identical or similar to those called for in the schedule have been previously furnished by the Offeror/Contractor and have been accepted by the Government. The Offeror/Contractor may request a waiver.

(End of Clause)

Alternate I (Jan 1997). As prescribed in 9.308-2(a)(2) and (b)(2), add the following paragraph (j) to the basic clause:

(j) The Contractor shall produce both the first article and the production quantity at the same facility.

Laboratory Qualification Process

Contractor testing for Active Ingredient (AI) content shall be conducted at a laboratory which has been qualified by the Government and listed in section 52.246-9032 of the contract.

Government determination of the proposed laboratory’s ability to perform the testing must be completed and the proposed laboratory granted conditional qualification before First Article Test may proceed.

The Combat Capabilities Development Command - Soldier Center (DECCOM SC) Textile Materials Evaluation Branch (TMEB) will send (5) 3-inch diameter pre-cut samples of cloth with known properties to Contractor to be tested for AI content. Results from testing this material shall be submitted to DEVCOM SC TMEB along with end item results in order to establish correlation of testing methods.

The laboratory may be considered a Qualified Testing Facility once DEVCOM SC TMEB determines through correlation testing that the laboratory is acceptable.

If at any time over the course of the contract the Government determines that correlation testing no longer supports Qualification of the laboratory, Qualification may be revoked. When necessary, DLA Troop Support contracting personnel will advise.

· AI Content (Gas Chromatography/Mass Spectrometry test)

· Requirement as stated in paragraph the item specification

· Method as stated in MIL-PRF-32659, 4.7.1

· Samples will be tested initially (treated unlaundered sample) and after 1, 20 and 50 launderings.

· %Bite Protection Test

· Requirement as stated in the item specification.

· Method as stated in MIL-PRF-32659, 4.7.2

· Samples will be tested after 1, 20 and 50 launderings.

· Shade conformance

· Shade to match selected standard after treatment

(b) Within 45 days after the Government receives the first article the laundered swatches (pre-treated fabric or garment samples) will be sent to USDA for % Bite protection testing. Within 180 calendar days of the USDA receiving the laundered swatches (pre-treated fabric or garment samples) the testing will be completed, and results will be compiled into a final report, the Contracting Officer shall notify the Contractor, in writing, of the conditional approval, approval, or disapproval of the first article. The notice of conditional approval or approval shall not relieve the Contractor from complying with all requirements of the specifications and all other terms and conditions of this contract. A notice of conditional approval shall state any further action required of the Contractor. A notice of disapproval shall cite reasons for the disapproval. If for some reason the % Bite Protection testing cannot be completed in 180 days, the contractor will be notified of a delay in test result.

(c) If the first article is disapproved, the Contractor, upon Government request, shall submit an additional first article for testing. After each request, the Contractor shall make any necessary changes, modifications, or repairs to the first article or produce and treat another lot for FAT. All costs related to these re-tests are to be borne by the Contractor, including all costs for additional tests following disapproval. The Contractor shall furnish any additional first article to the Government under the terms and conditions and within the time specified by the Government. The Government shall act on this first article within the time limit specified in paragraph (b) of this clause. The Government reserves the right to require an equitable adjustment of the contract price for any extension of the delivery schedule or for any additional costs to the Government related to these tests.

(d) If the Contractor fails to deliver any first article on time, or the Contracting Officer disapproves any first article, the Contractor shall be deemed to have failed to make delivery within the meaning of the Default clause of this contract.

(e) Unless otherwise provided in the contract, the Contractor:

(1) May deliver the approved first article as a part of the contract quantity, provided it meets all contract requirements for acceptance and was not consumed or destroyed in testing; and

(2) Shall remove and dispose of any first article from the Government test facility at the Contractor’s expense.

(f) If the Government does not act within the time specified in paragraph (b) or (c) of this clause, the Contracting Officer shall, upon timely written request from the Contractor, equitably adjust under the Changes clause of this contract the delivery or performance dates and/or the contract price, and any other contractual term affected by the delay.

(g) The Contractor is responsible for providing operating and maintenance instructions, spare parts support, and repair of the first article during any first article test.

(h) Before first article approval, the acquisition of materials or components for, or the commencement of production of, the balance of the contract quantity is at the sole risk of the Contractor. Before first article approval, the costs thereof shall not be allocable to this contract for:

(1) progress payments, or

(2) termination settlements if the contract is terminated for the convenience of the Government.

(i) The Government may waive the requirement for first article approval test where supplies identical or similar to those called for in the schedule have been previously furnished by the Offeror/Contractor and have been accepted by the Government. The Offeror/Contractor may request a waiver.

(End of Clause)

Initial Verification Testing

The first Five (5) Treatment Lots shall be tested by both DEVCOM SC TMEB and Contractor’s Qualified Testing Facility for AI Content only at 0X launderings. The Government shall test the first Five (5) Treatment Lots of pre-treated fabric or post-treated garments. This requirement shall be considered satisfied when passing Government results for Five (5) consecutive Treatment Lots are received from DEVCOM SC TMEB. The Contractor is not free to ship subsequent Treatment Lots under "Follow-up verification" until passing results for Five (5) consecutive Treatment Lots have been confirmed by DLA and communicated to Contractor.

Treatment Lots for all verification (initial or follow-up) testing of pre-treated fabric shall be a minimum of 1000yds and a maximum of 12,500 yards.

Treatment Lots for all verification (initial or follow-up) verification testing of post-treated garments shall be a minimum of 300 garments and a maximum of 5000 garments.

Follow-up Verification Testing

Once Initial Verification Testing is completed and Five (5) consecutive Treatments have been passed by Government testing, Follow up Verification Testing will be required. Treatment Lots to be sampled for Follow-up Verification Testing shall be selected at random by the Government QAR such that out of each set of 10 Treatment Lots, the QAR shall randomly select one Treatment Lot to be sampled for Follow up Verification testing (i.e., 1 random Treatment Lot out of Treatment Lots 1-10, 1 random Treatment Lot out of Treatment Lots 11-20, etc.). Samples shall be tested by Government for insect repellent Application only at 0X launderings. The Contractor is not required to wait for Government results before shipping or continuing production while under Follow-up Verification except for the Treatment Lot that requires testing. (For example, if Treatment Lot 10 is submitted for Government verification testing, then Treatment Lot 10 may not ship until positive test results are received, while other Treatment Lots do not need to be held if applicable Contractor testing results are passing and reviewed by Government.)

In the event that the requirement for first Five (5) Treatment Lot verification is waived via contract modification, Follow-up Verification Testing of 1 in 10 Treatment Lots begins at the start of production.

Percent Bite Protection testing, and multiple wash insect repellent Content testing are not necessary once the First Article has passed. However, the Government may elect to test treated items at random at any time.

When required, random samples from the Treatment Lots shall be pulled by the Government QAR and sent with completed form DD 1222 to Combat Capabilities Development Command – Soldier Center (DEVCOM SC TMEB) at:

Combat Capabilities Development Command – Soldier Center 15 General Greene Ave, Building 5, Whittlesey Bldg ATTN: Textile Material Evaluation Branch, Room S127 Natick, MA 01760-5019

LOT FORMATION AND TESTING FOR END ITEMS AND COMPONENTS

The following definitions and/or instructions derived from DLA TROOP SUPPORT C&T AQAR Quality Systems Requirements are applicable for production and presentation of garments and fabric treated with insect repellent for the Department of Defense.

Sampling of Lots for Testing

A. Samples shall be randomly selected from Manufacturing Lots by the Government Quality Assurance Representative (DCMA QAS) in accordance with contract ANSI AQL requirements for the purpose of Government inspection and acceptance.

i. In the case of garments to be chemically treated after manufacture, samples shall be randomly selected by a Government QAR in accordance with contract ANSI AQL requirements for inspection of acceptable manufacturing quality before being forwarded to the treatment facility. After treatment, samples shall again be randomly selected by a Government QAR in accordance with contract ANSI AQL requirements for the purpose of final Government inspection and acceptance.

ii. In the case of pre-treated fabric prior to being garment manufacturing, samples shall be randomly selected by a Government QAR in accordance with contract ANSI AQL requirements for inspection of acceptable quality before being forwarded to the cut and sew facility. After treatment and manufacturing, samples shall again be randomly selected by a Government QAR in accordance with contract ANSI AQL requirements for the purpose of final Government inspection and acceptance. Garments made with pretreated fabric do not need to be sampled for FAT, Initial or Follow-up Verification Testing, as this will be done on the pre-treated fabric level.

Samples for all Government verification testing or inspection shall be pulled by the Government QAR from the completed Treatment Lot which has been assembled for final presentation to the Government.

Except as…