GL-PD 14-05C Trouser ACU 01.25.2024.pdf

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

INCH-POUND

GL/PD 14-05C

25 January 2024

SUPERSEDING

GL/PD 14-05B

7 March 2023

DETAIL SPECIFICATION

TROUSERS, ADVANCED COMBAT UNIFORM

This specification is approved for use by DLA Troop Support and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense (DoD).

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for unisex and female advanced combat trousers to be worn by Military personnel.

1.2 Classification. The trousers will be of the following types, styles, classes and sizes as specified.

1.2.1 Types.

Type I - 50/50 Nylon/Cotton Ripstop Type II - DELETED Type III - Flame Resistant (FR) Cloth Ripstop

1.2.2 Styles.

Style A - Unisex Style B - Female

1.2.3 Classes.

Class 1 - Untreated Class 2 - Permethrin Treated Class 3 - Insect Repellent Treated (Etofenprox)

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Department of the U.S. Army, DEVCOM – Soldier Center, ATTN: FCDD-SCD-PEI, 10 General Greene Avenue, Natick, MA 01760-5019.

AMSC N/A FSC 8415

GL-PD-14-05C

1.2.4 Sizes. The trousers sizes will be as follows:

STYLE A. UNISEX SCHEDULE OF SIZES

X-Small (XS) Small (S) Medium (M) Large (L) X-Large (XL) XX-Large (XXL) X-Short (X-S) X-Short X-Short X-Short X-Short X-Short Short (S) Short Short Short Short Short Regular (R) Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular Long (L) Long Long Long Long Long X-Long( X-L) X-Long X-Long X-Long X-Long X-Long XX-Long (XX-L) XX-Long XX-Long XX-Long XX-Long XX-Long

STYLE B. FEMALE SCHEDULE OF SIZES

25 28 31 35

X-Short X-Short X-Short ---- Short Short Short Short

Regular Regular Regular Regular ---- Long Long Long ---- ---- X-Long X-Long

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester Covered A-A-55195 - Thread, Para-Aramid, Spun, Intermediate Modulus A-A-55217 - Thread, Aramid, Spun, Staple A-A-59826 - Thread, Nylon A-A-59994 - Button, Sewing, Hole and Button Staple (Plastic)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-5038 - Tape, Textile and Webbing, Textile, Reinforcing Nylon MIL-W-5664 - Webbing, Textile Elastic MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use) MIL-PRF-32635 - Cloth, Flame Resistant MIL-PRF-32659 - Textiles: Vector Protection Treatment of MIL-DTL-44436 - Cloth, Camouflage Pattern, Wind Resistant Poplin, Nylon/Cotton Blend

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

OTHER GOVERNMENT DOCUMENTS AND PUBLICATIONS

PURCHASE DESCRIPTIONS

GL-PD-10-08 - Patch Kit, Integrated, Flame Resistant (IPK)

(Copies of this document are available through the contracting activity.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC EP1 - Evaluation Procedure for Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC EP2 - Evaluation Procedure for Gray Scale for Staining AATCC EP8 - Evaluation Procedure for AATCC 9 Step Chromatic Transference Scale AATCC TM8 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method AATCC TM15 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC TM61 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated AATCC TM81 - Test Method for pH of the Water-Extract from Wet Processed Textiles AATCC TM96 - Test Method for Dimensional Changes in Commercial Laundering of Woven and Knitted Fabrics Except Wool AATCC TM135 - Test Method for Dimensional Changes of Fabrics After Home Laundering

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://aatcc.org.)

https://quicksearch.dla.mil/ https://aatcc.org/

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes

(Copies of this document are available online at https://asq.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D76/D76M - Standard Specification of Tensile Testing Machines for Textiles ASTM D1424 - Standard Test Methods for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling- Pendulum Type (Elmendorf) Apparatus ASTM D1776/D1776M - Standard Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles ASTM F1930 - Standard Test Method for Evaluation of Flame Resistant Clothing for Protection Against Flash Fire Simulations Using an Instrumented Manikin

ASTM D3776/D3776M - Standard Test Method for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric ASTM D3990 - Standard Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects ASTM D5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test) ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams ASTM D6413/D6413M - Standard Test Method for Flame Resistance of Textiles (Vertical Test)

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.astm.org.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

SDL ATLAS

Part Number 402985 – Slub/Knot Replica Set (Fabric Defect Replica Scales)

(Replica set is available for purchase from SDL Atlas Customer Service, 1-803-329-2110)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Inspections.

3.1.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.1.2 Conformance inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to conformance inspection in accordance with 4.3.

https://asq.org/ https://www.astm.org/

3.2 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design. The trousers design for Style A-Unisex shall have a waistband with clean finished ends and button/buttonhole closure (see 3.7.1). Style B female trousers shall have two (2) elasticized portions and button/buttonhole closure (see 3.7.2). Both style trousers shall have seven (7) belt loops along with a covered fly with three (3) buttons and buttonhole closure (see 3.7.4). Both style trousers shall have two (2) side hanging pockets, two (2) back single welt hip pockets with two (2) button closure flaps, two (2) front side pleated cargo pockets with three (3) buttons/two (2) buttonholes closure flaps and two (2) lower leg pockets with one (1) button/ buttonhole closure flaps. Both styles shall have side cargo pockets and lower leg pockets that have sewn-in eyelets at the bottom of each of the bellows. Both styles shall have a double needle seat patch and shall have knee reinforcement patches. Each style shall have a drawstring at each leg bottom.

3.4 Materials.

3.4.1 Basic material (Type I only). The basic material for the Type I trousers shall be a 50/50 nylon/cotton blend, wind resistant poplin ripstop cloth in Operational Camouflage Pattern (OCP) conforming to Class 14, of MIL-DTL-44436 as specified (see 6.2).

3.4.2 DELETED (see 6.9.1).

3.4.3 Basic material (Type III only). The basic material for the Type III trousers shall be an FR ripstop cloth conforming to MIL-PRF-32635 Type III, Class 1 in OCP, Class 3 in Digital Print Desert Camouflage Navy Working Uniform (NWU) II and Class 4 in Digital Print Woodland Camouflage NWU III, as specified (see 6.2).

3.4.3.1 The finished Type III trousers for all styles and classes shall meet the requirement in Table I when tested as specified in 4.4.3.

TABLE I. Basic material requirement (Type III only) 1/

Characteristic Requirement Flash fire (Predicted Burn Injury), percent

(max.) 1/, 2/ With head

Without head

1/ First Article Testing only 2/ 4 second exposure

3.4.4 Insect bite protection (all types). Materials may be treated as an option to obtain bite protection performance. Insect repellent treatment processes shall be in accordance with MIL-PRF-32659. The treated fabric and/or items shall be labeled in accordance with MIL-PRF-32659. The insect repellent finish shall be uniformly applied across the treated fabric and/or items at an initial target level as specified in the EPA registered label. The treatment level shall provide the percent (%) bite protection specified in 3.5.1. The finished insect repellent treatment shall not degrade any performance characteristics or present any latent defects to the treated fabric and/or items.

3.4.5 Cloth, side and hip hanging pockets, and waistband lining (all types, styles and classes).

The cloth for waistband lining, side and hip pockets, shall be basic printed material or basic printed material seconds. Seconds shall be basic material which has been rejected only for defects pertaining to shade, infrared reflectance, or camouflage printed pattern as outlined in the appropriate material specification.

3.4.5.1 Alternate cloth, side and hip hanging pockets (all types, styles and classes). As an alternate for the Type I trousers only, a 5.0 oz/sq. yd. minimum, plain weave, 75 percent (%) polyester 25 percent (%) cotton material or equal may be used for side and hip hanging pockets only. The color for the alternate material shall be Tan 499 for OCP uniforms. All other alternate materials shall meet the requirements outlined in Table I.A when tested as specified in 4.4.2.

TABLE I.A. Alternate side and hip hanging pockets material (all types, styles and classes).

Type I Type III Weight, oz./sq.yd.

minimum maximum

6.0 7.0

5.5 8.5

Breaking strength, pounds (min.)

Warp Filling

Tearing strength, pounds, Dry (min.)

Warp Filling

7.0 5.0

4.0

Dimensional stability, percent (After 5 laundering cycles)(max.)

Warp and Filling:

Individual Sample Lot Average

3.5 3.0

3.5

Laundering (4 Cycles) All colors (Color change and Staining) (min.)

Crocking (wet and dry) All colors (min.) 3.5 3.5 Perspiration All colors (Color change and Staining) (min.)

3-4

TABLE I.A. Alternate side and hip hanging pockets material (all types, styles and classes). – Continued

Type I Type III Flame resistance: Initial – After Flame, seconds (max.)

After Glow, seconds (max.)

Char Length, inches (max.)

N/A

2.0

25.0 4.5

Flame resistance:

After 25 launderings – After Flame, seconds (max.)

After Glow, seconds (max.)

Char Length, inches (max.)

N/A

2.0 25.0 4.5

3.5 Insect bite protection (Classes 2 and 3 only, all styles). The finished garments with insect repellent treatment shall provide the minimum mosquito bite protection specified in 3.5.1 and the treatment shall be strictly limited to the levels specified in the contract and is active ingredient dependent.

NOTE: Unless otherwise specified in the contract or solicitation the following dosage rates apply:

Type I, Class 2 (Permethrin): 0.095-0.135 mg/cm2 Type I, Class 3 (Etofenprox): 0.165-0.242 mg/cm2 Type III, Class 2 (Permethrin): 0.095-0.140 mg/cm2 Type III, Class 3 (Etofenprox): 0.181-0.266 mg/cm2

3.5.1 Percent (%) bite protection. Finished insect repellent treated garments shall provide the minimum bite protection specified below when assessed by the biting protection testing specified in 4.4.3. Government approval shall be required initially, and any time there is a change in the insect repellent treatment formulation or processing conditions.

Type I, Class 2 and 3 Type III, Class 2 and 3 Condition % Bite Protection % Bite Protection Initial (1 Wash) >/= 90% >/= 85% After 20 launderings >/= 90% >/= 80% After 50 launderings >/= 90% >/= 80%

3.5.1.1 Insect repellent garment treatment of camouflage patterns (Classes 2 and 3 only, all styles). The mixing of camouflage patterns in the same insect repellent treatment garment application is not allowed. Patterns shall be treated separately.

3.5.1.2 Insect repellent garment application finished measurements (Classes 2 and 3 only, all styles). Manufacturers shall comply with the finished measurement requirements in 3.12.1 and compensate for actual fabric shrinkage or growth after the application of garment treatment in accordance with the requirements in MIL-PRF-32659.

3.5.2 Insect repellent treatment (Class 2 and 3 only, all styles). Insect repellent treatment process shall be in accordance with MIL-PRF-32659. The treated items shall be labeled in accordance with 3.8.3 and 3.8.4. The insect repellent finish shall be uniformly applied across the treated item at an initial target level as specified in the EPA registered label. The treatment level shall provide the percent (%) bite protection specified in 3.5.1. The finished insect repellent treatment shall not degrade any performance characteristics or present any latent defects to the treated item.

3.5.3 pH (Class 2 and 3 only). The pH value of the water extract of all the finished cloth and garments shall be no lower than 5.0 or higher than 8.5 when tested as specified in 4.4.3.

3.6 Components materials and shade (all types, styles, and classes). The component materials for the trousers shall be made in accordance with 3.4 -3.6.5. Component materials for the trousers are for all types, classes and styles unless otherwise noted. All component shade shall be Tan 499 for OCP, NWU II and NWU III uniforms with the exception of 3.6.5, Integrated Patch Kit (IPK) for Class 3 of GL-PD-10-08C only and some NWU III components. IPK shade shall be the camouflage print of the uniform, and NWU III sewing thread and gimp shall match Green 383.

3.6.1 Tape.

3.6.1.1 Hem tape (drawstring). The tape for the leg bottom hem shall conform to MIL-DTL-5038, Type III, 3/8-inch wide. The drawstring tape for the leg bottom hem shall be cut 32 (± 1) inches in length for all sizes. The tape ends shall be heat cut to prevent raveling.

3.6.1.2 Tape, FR identification marker (Type III only, all styles and classes). The tape for the FR identification marker shall be 1-inch wide conforming to Type III of MIL-DTL-5038. The tape ends shall be heat cut to prevent raveling.

3.6.2 Elastic webbing (Style B). The elastic webbing for the female trousers waistband shall be natural in color and be 1-1/2-inch wide and conform to, or have performance characteristics equal to or better than, Type II, Class 1 of MIL-W-5664. The elastic for the waistband shall be cut to the length needed to achieve both the trousers 1/2 waist finished relaxed and finished stretched measurements (for each size) as specified in 3.12.1 and Table VIIIB (see 3.7.2) and the elongation force specified below. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.

Elongation (inches) Force (lbs.)

(±1/16) Minimum Maximum

Waistband 1-1/2 1.5 4.0

3.6.3 Thread (Type I only, all styles and classes). The thread for all seaming and stitching for the Type I trousers shall conform to Table II. All thread shall be non-staining and the requirements in each Commercial Item Description (CID) shall apply.

TABLE II. Thread requirements, Type I trousers only.

Component area

Thread specification

Needle thread

(Tex size) 1/

Bobbin/ Looper thread

(Tex size) 1/ All seaming, stitching and bar-tacking A-A-50199, Type I 46-60 46-60 Button attachment A-A-50199, Type I 71-105 71-105 Seat patch A-A-50199, Type I 46-60 46-60 Overedge stitching (raw edges) A-A-50199, Type I 21-24 21-24 Crotch A-A-59826, Type I 45-46 45-46

1/ Needle & Bobbin/Looper shall use same Tex size thread.

3.6.3.1 Thread (Type III only, all styles and classes). The thread for all seaming and stitching shall be as specified in Table III. All thread shall be non-staining and the requirements in each respective Commercial Item Description (CID) shall apply.

TABLE III. Thread requirements, Type III trousers only.

Component area

Thread specification

Needle thread

(Tex size) 1/

Bobbin/ Looper thread

(Tex size) 1/ All seaming except small parts A-A-55195, Type II

A-A-55217, Type I

50-60

50-60 Small parts, pockets, flaps, top stitching, tabs, hems and eyelets, identification marker and labels

A-A-55195, Type I A-A-55195, Type II A-A-55217, Type I

50-60

50-60 Overedge/Serge for raw edge cover A-A-55195, Type I

A-A-55195, Type II A-A-55217, Type I

24-27

24-27 Crotch seam and seat patch A-A-55195, Type I

A-A-55195, Type II A-A-55217, Type I

70-80

70-80 Button attachment A-A-55195, Type I

A-A-55195, Type II A-A-55217, Type I

50-60

50-60 1/ Needle & Bobbin/Looper shall use same Tex size thread.

3.6.3.2 Gimp. The cotton gimp for reinforcing buttonholes shall conform to A-A-50198, soft or glazed finish, Tex Size 180 or 210.

3.6.4 Buttons. Buttons shall be dull finish, four (4) holes, 30 ligne conforming to A-A-59994, Type I, Class 1, Style 26. When attached to the trousers, the button and thread shall withstand 40 pounds (minimum) when tested as specified in 4.4.3.

3.6.5 Integrated Patch Kit (IPK) (Type III only, all styles and classes). The IPK shall conform to the requirements of GL/PD 10-08. OCP uniforms shall use Class 3, Size R. (See 6.9)

3.7 Construction (all types, styles and classes). The construction for the trousers shall be made in accordance with 3.7.1 - 3.7.12. Construction is for all types, styles and classes unless otherwise noted. All material edges shall be clean finished: turned-in, turned-under, or serged, unless otherwise indicated. All components with a grain line shall follow the grain line of the basic garment material or as indicated on pattern.

3.7.1 Unisex waistband (Style A only, all types and classes). The finished waistband shall measure 1-3/4 (± 1/8) inches wide with clean finished ends and a button/buttonhole closure. The width of the waistband shall be consistent so that the right and left sides match each other in width at the front within 3/16-inch. The waistband shall have a button and horizontal buttonhole closure that shall align vertically with the fly button and buttonhole closure (see figures 6A and 6B).

3.7.2 Stretch waistband (Style B only, all types and classes). The finished waistband shall measure 1-3/4 (± 1/8) inches wide with clean finished ends and a button/buttonhole closure that shall align vertically with the fly button/buttonhole closure (see figures 6A and 6B). The width of the waistband shall be consistent so that the right and left sides match each other in width at the front within 3/16-inch. The waistband shall have an elasticized portion at each side of the waist that starts at the front of the pocket bearer and extends past the outseam and belt loop into the back of the trousers to achieve the finished waist stretch circumference for each size (see figure 1). For sizes 25 and 28, the elastics shall be approximately 7-inches long and be bar-tacked approximately 1/2-inch from each end. For sizes 31 and 35 the elastics shall be approximately 8-inches long and be bar-tacked approximately 1/2-inch from each end. The waistband elastic shall be stitched and bar-tacked as outlined in Tables VI and VII. For alternate waistband construction see Table VI, Footnote 2/.

3.7.3 Belt loops. The trousers shall have seven (7) belt loops measuring 5/8 (± 1/16) inch in width and finish 2-1/8 (± 1/8) inches between bar-tacks in the length. Bar-tacks shall be set 1/8-inch from the top and bottom edge. The belt loop’s underside folded raw edge shall not extend past the belt loop finished edge more than 3/8-inch. The belt loop placement shall be as follows: one (1) loop on each side seam, one (1) on back seam, and one (1) on each front centered between side seam and waistband end, and one (1) on each back side centered between side seam and back seam. Belt loops may be positioned immediately adjacent to felled seams to reduce bulk in sewing. When positioning belt loops adjacent to side seam, the belt loop shall be placed toward the front.

3.7.4 Fly. The fly shall be a covered fly with three (3) buttons and buttonhole closure. The buttonholes shall be horizontal and placed as indicated on the pattern. The fly shall have “J” stitching 2 (± 1/8) inches from fly edge. The top fly shall be edge stitched 1/16 to 1/8-inch (see figure 6B).

3.7.5 Seat patch. The trousers shall have a double-needle seat patch (see pattern for placement) (see figure 2).

3.7.6 Knee reinforcement. The trousers shall have a knee reinforcement patch on each leg, stitched down around all four (4) sides (see pattern for placement).

3.7.7 Pockets and flaps.

3.7.7.1 Front side pockets. The trousers shall have two (2) front side hanging pockets with pocket openings measuring 6-3/4 (± 1/2) inches between bar-tacks. Pocket openings shall match each other within 1/4-inch. Any raw edge shall be overedge stitched.

3.7.7.2 Hip pockets. The trousers shall have back left and right single welt hip pockets with a two (2) button/buttonhole closure per pocket. The finished welt shall measure 1/4 (± 1/16) inch.

The buttons shall be sewn onto the outside of the pocket and the buttonholes shall be vertical and sewn into the underside of the flap as indicated on patterns (see figure 4).

3.7.7.3 Cargo pockets and flaps. The trousers shall have two (2) pleated bellows cargo pockets with flaps (see pattern for placement). The pockets shall have a sewn-in eyelet at the bottom side edge of bellow, as indicated on the pattern (see 3.7.10). The top of the folded finished pocket flaps shall finish 3/4-inch from the folded edge of pocket top (see pattern for placement). The pleated bellows shall be edge stitched to secure pleat stability. The cargo pockets and flaps shall close with a three (3) button (2) buttonhole closure per pocket. The buttons shall be sewn onto the outside of the pocket and the buttonholes shall be vertical and sewn onto the underside of the flap as indicated on patterns (see figure 3). The cargo pocket top edge may be constructed with automated equipment.

3.7.7.4 Lower leg pockets and flaps. The trousers shall have two (2) lower leg bellows pockets with flaps (see pattern for placement). The pockets shall have a sewn-in eyelet at the bottom of the bellow (see 3.7.10), as indicated on pattern (see figure 5). The top of the folded finished pocket flaps shall finish 1/2-inch from the folded edge of pocket top (see pattern for placement). The pockets shall close with one (1) button sewn onto the outside of the pocket as indicated on the pattern. The buttonhole shall be vertical and sewn into the underside of the flap as indicated on the pattern. See pattern for button and buttonhole placement.

3.7.8 Leg bottom hem and drawstring. The leg bottoms shall be hemmed and shall have a drawstring inserted through two (2) sewn-in eyelets or two (2) 1/2-inch horizontal straight cut buttonholes with reinforcement piece as indicated on patterns (see 3.7.9 and 3.11.1). The drawstring tape (see 3.6.1.1) shall overlap (cross) between holes when threaded through the hem casing. The drawstring shall be heat sealed at each end before packaging. The finished hem shall measure 7/8 (±1/8) inch wide.

3.7.9 Buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be eyelet-end tapered bar type worked over gimp for the fly, back hip welt pocket flaps, cargo pocket flaps and lower leg pocket flaps with not less than four (4) tacking stitches at bar end catching the gimp ends (not counting the crossover stitch).

The purling shall be on the outside surface. The cut lengths shall be 3/4-inch to 7/8-inch. The buttonholes shall be clean cut with the stitching securely caught in fabric. When buttonholes are used in lieu of sewn-in eyelets for the waistband and leg bottom hem drawstrings they shall be 1/2-inch vertical straight cut for the waistband and 1/2-inch horizontal straight cut for the leg bottom hem.

3.7.10 Eyelets. The sewn-in eyelets for the cargo pocket and lower leg pocket bellows shall have a 1/4 (± 1/16) inch diameter finished opening. When sewn-in eyelets are used for the leg bottom they shall measure 3/8 (± 1/8) inch in diameter. See pattern for placement.

3.7.11 Identification FR marker (Type III only, all styles and classes). The Type III trousers shall have a tape marker as specified in 3.6.1.2 centered (vertically and horizontally) on the left cargo pocket flap as worn and shall be visible from the outside when worn (see pattern for placement). The tape marker shall be clean finished, or heat sealed and finish 1 (± 1/8) inch in length. The finished tape identification marker shall be box stitched as specified in Table VI. The thread shall be in accordance with the requirements for the Type III trousers (see 3.6.3.1).

(See figures 1 and 2).

3.7.12 Integrated Patch Kit (IPK) placement (Type III only, all styles and classes). The Type III trousers shall have an IPK placed into the finished left hip pocket, as worn. The IPK shall be placed into the pocket after insect repellent treatment with the shortest dimension vertical and shall lie flat after placement in pocket. The pocket shall be secured with at least one (1) button to prevent IPK from falling out.

3.8 Labels (all types, styles and classes). Unless otherwise noted, labels are for all types, styles and classes. All garments shall have a size label and a combination identification/care label sewn or stamped into the trousers. All garments shall have a barcode hang tag. Class 2 and Class 3 trousers shall have an additional insect protection/identification/care label sewn or stamped into the trousers and a hang tag. The printing for all labels shall be black. The font size for the inscription of the size label shall be 10 points. The inscription shall have a minimum font size of 8 points for identification/care label and insect protection/identification/care label only. Inscription shall be legible. Sewn in labels and printing and/or stamping shall last the expected life of the trousers.

3.8.1 Size label. The size label shall conform to Type VI, Class 2 of MIL-DTL-32075 and shall be sewn and caught in the bottom of the inside waistband seam. The stitching shall not cover the printing. The color of the size label for the Type I trousers shall be white or approximate the ground shade of the basic fabric and for the Type III trousers the color of the size label shall be Urban Gray 501. As an alternate, may use a stamp at the bottom of the inside waistband seam. The color base of stamping for the Types I and II trousers shall be white, and Urban Gray base for Type III with black letters. The size label shall include the information in Table IV.A and Table IV.B for the applicable size:

TABLE IV.A. Style A. Unisex size label.

X-Small – X-Short Inseam: 23-1/2 to 26-1/2 in.

Waist: 23 to 27 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6067/5869

X-Small – Short Inseam: 26-1/2 to 29-1/2 in.

Waist: 23 to 27 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6775/5869

X-Small – Regular Inseam: 29-1/2 to 32-1/2 in.

Waist: 23 to 27 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 7583/5869

X-Small – Long Inseam: 32-1/2 to 35-1/2 in.

Waist: 23 to 27 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 8390/5869

X-Small – X-Long Inseam: 35-1/2 to 38-1/2 in.

Waist: 23 to 27 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9098/5869

X-Small – XX-Long Inseam: Over 38-1/2 in.

Waist: 23 to 27 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9805/5869

Small – X-Short Inseam: 23-1/2 to 26-1/2 in.

Waist: 27 to 31 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6067/6979

Small – Short Inseam: 26-1/2 to 29-1/2 in.

Waist: 27 to 31 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6775/6979

Small – Regular Inseam: 29-1/2 to 32-1/2 in.

Waist: 27 to 31 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 7583/6979

Small – Long Inseam: 32-1/2 to 35-1/2 in.

Waist: 27 to 31 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 8390/6979

Small – X-Long Inseam: 35-1/2 to 38-1/2 in.

Waist: 27 to 31 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9098/6979

Small – XX-Long Inseam: Over 38-1/2 in.

Waist: 27 to 31 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9805/6979

Medium – X-Short Inseam: 23-1/2 to 26-1/2 in.

Waist: 31 to 35 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6067/7989

Medium – Short Inseam: 26-1/2 to 29-1/2 in.

Waist: 31 to 35 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6775/7989

Medium – Regular Inseam: 29-1/2 to 32-1/2 in.

Waist: 31 to 35 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 7583/7989

Medium – Long Inseam: 32-1/2 to 35-1/2 in.

Waist: 31 to 35 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:8390/7989

Medium - X-Long Inseam: 35-1/2 to 38-1/2 in.

Waist: 31 to 35 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9098/7989

Medium - XX-Long Inseam: 38-1/2 to 41-1/2 in.

Waist: 31 to 35 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9805/7989

Large - X-Short Inseam: 23-1/2 to 26-1/2 in.

Waist: 35 to 39 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6067/8999

Large – Short Inseam: 26-1/2 to 29-1/2 in.

Waist: 35 to 39 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6775/8999

Large - Regular Inseam: 29-1/2 to 32-1/2 in.

Waist: 35 to 39 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 7583/8999

Large – Long Inseam: 32-1/2 to 35-1/2 in.

Waist: 35 to 39 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 8390/8999

Large - X-Long Inseam: 35-1/2 to 38-1/2 in.

Waist: 35 to 39 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9098/8999

Large - XX-Long Inseam: Over 38-1/2 in.

Waist: 35 to 39 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9805/8999

TABLE IV.A. Style A. Unisex size label. - Continued

X-Large - X-Short Inseam: 23-1/2 to 26-1/2 in.

Waist: 39 to 43 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6067/9909

X-Large - Short Inseam: 26-1/2 to 29-1/2 in.

Waist: 39 to 43 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6775/9909

X-Large - Regular Inseam: 29-1/2 to 32-1/2 in.

Waist: 39 to 43 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 7583/9909

X-Large - Long Inseam: 32-1/2 to 35-1/2 in.

Waist: 39 to 43 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 8390/9909

X-Large - X-Long Inseam: 35-1/2 to 38-1/2 in.

Waist: 39 to 43 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9098/9909

X-Large - XX-Long Inseam: 38-1/2 to 41-1/2 in.

Waist: 39 to 43 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9805/9909

XX-Large - X-Short Inseam: 23-1/2 to 26-1/2 in.

Waist: 43 to 47 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6067/0919

XX-Large – Short Inseam: 26-1/2 to 29-1/2 in.

Waist: 43 to 47 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6775/0919

XX-Large – Regular Inseam: 29-1/2 to 32-1/2 in.

Waist: 43 to 47 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 7583/0919

XX-Large – Long Inseam: 32-1/2 to 35-1/2 in.

Waist: 43 to 47 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 8390/0919

XX-Large - X- Long Inseam: 35-1/2 to 38-1/2 in.

Waist: 43 to 47 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9098/0919

XX-Large - XX-Long Inseam: 38-1/2 to 41-1/2 in.

Waist: 43 to 47 in.

NATO Size: 9805/0919

TABLE IV.B. Style B. Female size label.

25 – X Short Waist: 25 to 28 in.

Inseam: 24 to 26 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6067/5869

28 – X Short Waist: 28 to 31 in.

Inseam: 24 to 26 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6067/6979

31 – X Short Waist: 31 to 35 in.

Inseam: 24 to 26 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6067/7989

35 – X Short Waist: 35 to 39 in.

Inseam: 24 to 26 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6067/8999

25 – Short Waist: 25 to 28 in.

Inseam: 26 to 28 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6775/5869

28 – Short Waist: 28 to 31 in.

Inseam: 26 to 28 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6775/6979

31 – Short Waist: 31to 35 in.

Inseam: 26 to 28 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6775/7989

35 – Short Waist: 35 to 39 in.

Inseam: 26 to 28 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6775/8999

25 – Regular Waist: 25 to 28 in.

Inseam: 28 to 30 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 7583/5869

28 – Regular Waist: 28 to 31 in.

Inseam: 28 to 30 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 7583/6979

31 – Regular Waist: 31 to 35 in.

Inseam: 28 to 30 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 7583/7989

35 – Regular Waist: 35 to 39 in.

Inseam: 28 to 30 in.

NATO Size: 7583/8999

28 – Long Waist: 28 to 31 in.

Inseam: 30 to 32 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 8390/6979

31 – Long Waist: 31 to 35 in.

Inseam: 30 to 32 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 8390/7989

35 – Long Waist: 35 to 39 in.

Inseam: 30 to 32 in.

NATO Size: 8390/8999

TABLE IV.B. Style B. Female size label. - Continued

31 – X Long Waist: 31 to 35 in.

Inseam: 32 to 34 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9098/7989

35 – X Long Waist: 35 to 39 in.

Inseam: 32 to 34 in.

NATO Size: 9098/8999

3.8.2 Identification and care label (all types, styles and classes). The combination identification/ care label shall conform to Type VI, Class 15 of MIL-DTL-32075 and shall be placed on the inside of the right hip pocket (as worn), so that on the finished trousers the label shall face the wearer. The label shall be stitched on all four (4) sides. The stitching shall not cover the printing and shall not be visible on trousers front. The color of the combination identification and care label shall be white or approximate the ground shade of the basic fabric,

3.4.1 and 3.4.3. As an alternate, may use a stamp on the inside of hip pocket facing out. The color base of stamping shall be white with black letters.

3.8.2.1 Identification and care label, (Type I Trousers only, all styles and classes). The Type I label shall include the following information:

Trousers, Advanced Combat Uniform - Unisex or Trousers, Advanced Combat Uniform – Female Fiber Content:

Contractor Name:

Contract Number:

Lot Number 1/

USE AND CARE

PRIOR TO LAUNDERING: Empty pockets. Turn inside out. Pre-treat stains with commercially available pre-treatments.

HOME LAUNDERING: Use cold water detergent. Wash in cold water using permanent press cycle. Rinse in cold water. Tumble dry low.

WASHING BY HAND: Use cold water detergent. Wash in cold water. Rinse completely. Never twist or wring dry. Hang dry on a rust-proof hanger. Do not hang dry in direct sunlight.

NOTE: Wash garment separate from other garments. In military field operations, garment may be washed with other garments.

CAUTION:

DO NOT USE BLEACH, BLEACH ALTERNATIVES, FABRIC SOFTENER, OR STARCH.

DO NOT DRY CLEAN OR COMMERCIALLY HOT PRESS.

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

2/

1/ Lot number shall be stamped with indelible black ink prior to shipment.

2/ NWU II and III uniforms shall not have the Army Team Soldier Seal (see 3.4.3)

3.8.2.2 Identification and care label, flame resistant (Type III Trousers only, all styles and classes). The label for Type III shall include the following information:

Trousers, Advanced Combat Uniform - Unisex or Trousers, Advanced Combat Uniform – Female

FLAME RESISTANT

Fiber Content:

Contractor Name:

Contract Number:

Lot Number 1/

This product meets the manufacturing and performance testing requirements as specified by the Program Executive Office – Soldier

USE AND CARE

PRIOR TO LAUNDERING: Empty pockets. Turn inside out. Pre-treat stains with commercially available pre-treatments.

HOME LAUNDERING: Use cold water detergent. Wash in cold water using permanent press cycle. Rinse in cold water. Tumble dry low.

WASHING BY HAND: Use cold water detergent. Wash in cold water. Rinse completely.

Never twist or wring dry. Hang dry on a rust-proof hanger. Do not hang dry in direct sunlight.

NOTE: Wash garment separate from other garments. In military field operations, garment may be washed with other garments.

CAUTION:

DO NOT USE BLEACH, BLEACH ALTERNATIVES, FABRIC SOFTENER, OR STARCH.

DO NOT DRY CLEAN OR COMMERCIALLY HOT PRESS.

THIS GARMENT IS FLAME RESISTANT

1/ Lot number shall be stamped with indelible black ink prior to shipment.

2/ NWU II and III uniforms shall not have the Army Team Soldier Seal (see 3.4.3)

2/

3.8.3 Insect repellent label (Class 2 and 3 only, all types and styles). The insect repellent label shall conform to MIL-PRF-32659 and shall be placed in the inside of the left hip pocket as worn, so that on the finished trousers label shall face the wearer. The label shall include both permanent insect repellent and brand labeling information; and shall comply with the approved EPA registration as specified in MIL-PRF-32659. The label shall be stitched on all four (4) sides. The stitching shall not cover the printing and shall not be visible on the trousers front. The color for the insect repellent label for Classes 2 and 3 and identification/care label shall be white or approximate the ground shade of the basic fabric, 3.4.1 and 3.4.3. As an alternate, may use a stamp on the inside of hip pocket facing out. The color base of stamping shall be white with black letters. The Class 2 and 3 insect repellent label shall be the approved EPA label (see example).

Insect Repellent Brand Name:

INSECT REPELLENT APPAREL

Refer to hangtag for more information

Trousers, Advanced Combat Uniform Contractor Name:

EPA REG. NO.:

EPA EST. NO.:

- Do Not Dry Clean

- Dry Cleaning removes active ingredient

- Wash separate from other clothing

- In military field operations, garment may be washed with other garments.

- Do Not Re-treat

- Dispose of garment in trash in accordance with DoD regulations

Repels mosquitoes Repellency remains effective for 50 washings

ACTIVE INGREDIENT %W/W

(Insert chemistry name)….…...…………..(Insert percentage)% OTHER INGREDIENTS: (Garment)…….(Insert percentage)%

TOTAL…………………………………...100.00%

It is a violation of Federal Law to use this product in a manner inconsistent with its labeling

Insect repellent label (example) for Classes 2 and 3.

3.8.4 Hang tag, Mosquito bite protection (Class 2 and 3 only, all types and styles). Each Class 2 and Class 3 trousers shall have an individual paper tag attached to the garment conforming to MIL-PRF-32659. The color for the hang tag shall be white. The paper tag shall be Swift tacked in the side seam approximately 2-inches below the belt loop. The tag shall provide additional Mosquito bite protection information in accordance with and as required by EPA registration and labeling. The hang tag shall be the approved EPA hang tag (see example):

Insect Repellent Brand Name:

INSECT REPELLENT APPAREL

Contractor Name:

Contractor Address:

EPA REG. NO.:

EPA EST. NO.:

- Do Not Dry Clean

- Dry Cleaning removes active ingredient

- Wash separate from other clothing

- In military field operations, garment may be washed with other garments.

- Do Not Re-treat

- Dispose of garment in trash in accordance with DoD regulations

- For protection of exposed skin, use in conjunction with a repellent registered for direct application to the skin.

Repels mosquitoes Repellency remains effective for 50 washings

ACTIVE INGREDIENT %W/W

(Insert chemistry name) .…..………… .(Insert percentage)% OTHER INGREDIENTS: (Garment)……. (Insert percentage)%

TOTAL………………………………… 100.00%

It is a violation of Federal Law to use this product in a manner inconsistent with its labeling.

Retain hangtag for future reference on proper handling of this garment.

THIS TAG NOT TO BE REMOVED EXCEPT BY CUSTOMER

Insect repellent hang tag (example) for Classes 2 and 3.

3.8.5 Barcode hang tag (all types, styles and classes). Each pair of trousers shall have a white paper barcode hang tag conforming to Type VIII, Class 17 of MIL-DTL-32075. The hang tag shall be Swift tacked in the side seam approximately 2-inches below the belt loop and shall be completely visible on the trousers when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and so it causes no damage to the trousers. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit National Stock Number (NSN). There shall be a 12 digit Universal Product Code (UPC) number assigned for all NSNs by the contracting activity. The initials “UPC” must appear beneath the code.

NOTE: The hang tag for insect protection and barcode may be applied jointly with the use of one (1) Swift tack.

3.9 Figures. Figures are furnished for informational purposes only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written document and the figure, the written document shall govern.

3.10 List of pattern parts. The Government shall furnish patterns, which show directional line markings for proper cutting and assembly and are to be used as a guide for cutting contractor’s working patterns. The Government patterns provide a seam allowance of 1/2-inch for outseams, seat seams, and crotch seams, 1/4-inch allowance for hip pocket flaps and 3/8-inch allowance for all other seams, except where otherwise specified. Pockets, pocket flaps, knee patches, buttons, buttonholes, and bar-tacks shall be located in accordance with marks on patterns and table references. Minor modifications to the pattern are permitted where necessary to accommodate manufacture’s processes to include garment treatments and use of automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the final design, serviceability, appearance, or final finished measurements. Table V.A and Table V.B pattern list is provided to ensure that the pattern set is complete for all types and styles of trousers (see 6.2).

TABLE V.A. Style A. Unisex list of pattern parts.

Material Nomenclature Pattern Abbreviation Cut

Number Basic Material

Back PD1405A-BACK 2 Left Front PD1405A-FRONT_LFT 1 Right Front PD1405A-FRONT_RT 1 Left Fly PD1405A-LEFT_FLY 3 Right Fly Lining PD1405A-RGT_FLY_LIN 1 Knee Patch PD1405A-KNEE_PATCH 2 Seat Patch PD1405A-SEAT_PATCH 2 Side Hanging Pocket Bearer PD1405A-SD_HG_PK_BR 2 Side Hanging Pocket Facing PD1405A-SD_HG_PK_FC 2 Side Hanging Pocket PD1405A-SD_HANG_PKT 2 Cargo Pocket PD1405A-CARGO_PKT 2 Cargo Pocket Facing PD1405A-CRG_PKT_FAC 2 Cargo Pocket Flap PD1405A-CG_PKT_FLP 2

TABLE V.A. Style A. Unisex list of pattern parts. – Continued

Number

Basic Material

Cargo Pocket Flap Tab PD1405A-CG_PK_FLP_TB 2 Waistband Lining PD1405A-WAISTBAND_LN 1 Lower Leg Pocket PD1405A-LOLEG_PKT 2 Lower Leg Pocket Flap PD1405A-LOW_LEG_FLP 2 Hip Pocket PD1405A-HIP_POCKET 2 Hip Pocket Bearer PD1405A-HIP_PCKT_BR 2 Hip Pocket Facing PD1405A-HIP_PKT_FAC 2 Hip Pocket Flap PD1405A-HIP_PKT_FLP 2

Alternates Hip Pocket Flap Tab PD1405A-HP_PK_FL_TB 2 Leg Eyelet PD1405A-LEG_EYELET 2 Back Alternate PD1405A-BACK_ALT 2 Left Front Alternate PD1405A-FRT_LFT_ALT 1 Right Front Alternate PD1405A-FRNT_RT_ALT 1 Left Fly Alternate PD1405A-LFT_FLY_ALT 3 Right Fly Lining Alternate PD1405A-RT_FL_LNALT 1 Waistband Alternate PD1405A-WSTBAND_ALT 2 Cargo Pocket Flap and Tab Alternate PD1405A-C_P_F_T_ALT 2 Hip Pocket Alternate PD1405A-HIP_PKT_ALT 2 Hip Pocket Flap and Tab Alternate PD1405A-HPPKFLTB_AL 2 Side Pocket Hanging Bearer Alternate PD1405A-S_H_P_B_ALT 2 Side Hanging Pocket Facing Alternate PD1405A-S_H_P_F_ALT 2 Side Hanging Pocket Alternate PD1405A-SD_HGPK_ALT 2

TABLE V.B. Style B. Female list of pattern parts.

Number

Basic Material

Back PD1405B-BACK 2 Left Front PD1405B-FRONT_LFT 1 Right Front PD1405B-FRONT_RT 1 Left Fly PD1405B-LEFT_FLY 3 Right Fly Lining PD1405B-RGT_FLY_LIN 1 Knee Patch PD1405B-KNEE_PATCH 2 Seat Patch PD1405B-SEAT_PATCH 2 Side Hanging Pocket Bearer PD1405B-SD_HG_PK_BR 2 Side Hanging Pocket Facing PD1405B-SD_HG_PK_FC 2

TABLE V.B. Style B. Female list of pattern parts. - Continued

Material

Nomenclature

Pattern Abbreviation

Cut Number

Basic Material

Side Hanging Pocket PD1405B-SD_HANG_PKT 2 Cargo Pocket PD1405B-CARGO_PKT 2 Cargo Pocket Facing PD1405B-CRG_PKT_FAC 2 Cargo Pocket Flap PD1405B-CG_PKT_FLP 2 Cargo Pocket Flap Tab PD1405B-CG_PK_FLP_TB 2 Waistband Lining 1/ PD1405B-WAISTBAND_LN 2 Lower Leg Pocket PD1405B-LOLEG_PKT 2 Lower Leg Pocket Flap PD1405B-LOW_LEG_FLP 2 Hip Pocket PD1405B-HIP_POCKET 2 Hip Pocket Bearer PD1405B-HIP_PCKT_BR 2 Hip Pocket Facing PD1405B-HIP_PKT_FAC 2 Hip Pocket Flap PD1405B-HIP_PKT_FLP 2 Hip Pocket Flap Tab PD1405B-HP_PK_FL_TB 2 Leg Eyelet PD1405B-LEG_EYELET 2

Alternates Back Alternate PD1405B-BACK_ALT 2 Left Front Alternate PD1405B-FRT_LFT_ALT 1 Right Front Alternate PD1405B-FRNT_RT_ALT 1 Left Fly Alternate PD1405B-LFT_FLY_ALT 3 Right Fly Lining Alternate PD1405B-RT_FL_LNALT 1 Waistband Alternate 2/ PD1405B-WSTBAND_ALT-

Cargo Pocket Flap and Tab Alternate PD1405B-C_P_F_T_ALT 2 Hip Pocket Alternate PD1405B-HIP_PKT_ALT 2 Hip Pocket Flap and Tab Alternate PD1405B-HPPKFLTB_AL 2 Side Pocket Hanging Bearer Alternate PD1405B-S_H_P_B_ALT 2 Side Hanging Pocket Facing Alternate PD1405B-S_H_P_F_ALT 2 Side Hanging Pocket Alternate PD1405B-SD_HGPK_ALT 2

1/ Waistband pattern will be prepared by contractor in accordance with requirements indicated in section 3.7.2.

2/ Waistband and lining are cut from same pattern. If waistband and lining are strip cut and put on rolls, disregard these pattern parts.

3.11 Configuration. Each pair of trousers shall conform to design, appearance (see figures 1-6), the finished measurements in Tables VIII.A and VIII.B and the construction methods specified in 3.11.1 through 3.11.3 and Tables VI and VII in order to maintain configuration compliance.

3.11.1 Seams and stitching. All seams shall be consistent and exhibit a uniform appearance and conform to the ASTM D6193 seam and stitch types listed in Table VI. The backside of seams (inside garment) shall be flat with no protruding seam allowance to create irritation or discomfort. All material edges shall be clean finished: turned-in, turned-under, or serged, unless otherwise indicated. The garment shall have no raw edges including inside pockets. Needle and bobbin thread tension shall be balanced such that neither is too tight nor too loose relative to each other. The seams for all outside visible stitching shall be sewn with 11 (± 1) stitches per inch.

Overedge or pre-hemming shall be 10 (± 2) stitches per inch. Buttons shall be attached with 16 (± 1) stitches per button. Buttonholes shall be 54 (± 2) stitches per inch including tack. The sewn eyelets for the bellows pockets shall have a minimum of 16 stitches. The width of the bight of stitching shall not be less than 1/16-inch. The eyelet stitching shall have at least four (4) overlapping stitches with the purling on the outside. All stitches per inch and gauges shall be met prior to any applicable garment treatments.

3.11.1.1 Repair of stitch.

3.11.1.2 Repairs of stitching. Repairs of stitching shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks or bobbin run-outs occur during stitching, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2-inch in back of the end of the stitching.

b. Thread breaks or two (2) or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during end item inspection shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start at a minimum of 1/2-inch in back of the defective area and continue a minimum of 1/2-inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching, without damaging the materials, and restitching in the required manner.

NOTE. When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched. The loose ends shall be trimmed with scissors. Caution: Pulling or breaking the loose ends is not allowed.

3.11.1.3 Repairs of type 401 stitching only. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.11.1.1 and 3.11.1.2, except substitute 3/4-inch for 1/2-inch wherever 1/2-inch appears. Repairs to stitch Type 401 may be accomplished by use of stitching Type 301.

3.11.2 Fly seaming and stitching. The fly construction stitching of front center crotch seam shall end at J-stitch. There shall be a horizontal bar-tack superimposed on the bottom point of the J-stitch (see figures 6A and 6B).

TABLE VI. Seam and stitching types.

Seam placement Seam type Gauge Stitch type Side seams, back seam and inseam

LSc-2 or Ssa2-2 and LSq-3

3/16 to 9/32-inch gauge (double lap seam)

301 or 401

Top stitching of side pockets OSf-1 3/16 to 1/4-inch from edge 301 Attachment of pockets LSd-1 1/16 to 1/8-inch from edge and

1/4-inch gauge

Raw edges of pocket flaps, pocket bagging, bearer or facings

SSa-2 1/4 to 3/8-inch gauge 516, 519

FR identification marker to left cargo pocket flap (Type III only)

LSbj-1 Box stitch 7/8-inch by 7/8-inch 301

Setting of cargo and lower leg pocket flaps:

Ssa-1

3/16 to 5/16-inches from edge

502,503 or

Top stitching of cargo and lower leg pocket flaps

OSF-1 3/16 to 1/4-inch from folded edge

Top stitch

OR

Top stitch

Sba-2

LSb1-2

Two (2) rows 3/16 to 1/4-inch apart

3/16 to 1/4-inch from serged edge, then turn flap burying raw edge and top stitch one (1) row 1/4 to 5/16-inches from turned edge

Cargo and lower leg pocket bellows, pleats edge stitch all

OSf-1 1/16 to 1/8-inch from edge 301

Cargo Pocket Facing LSk-2 1/16 to 1/8-inch from top and bottom edge of cargo pocket facing

Attachment of knee reinforcements

LSd-2 Two (2) rows 3/16 to 1/4-inch apart

Bottom hemming Efb-1 3/4 to 1-inch wide hem 301 Belt loops Efh-1 1/4-inch gauge between needle 402 or 406 Waistband attachment options (Style A, Unisex): Grown-on lining attachment

Top stitch

OR

Sewn-on 1-piece

LSct-2

LSct-3

BSo-2

1/16 to 1/8-inch from top and bottom edge of waistband lining

Along top edge bottom edge of waistband

301 or 401

TABLE VI. Seam and stitching types. - Continued

Seam placement Seam type Gauge Stitch type Waistband attachment options (Style A, Unisex): - Continued

Top stitch

OR

Sewn-on 2-piece

BSo-3

LSbc-2

Along top edge bottom edge of waistband

Elastic Waistband (Style B, Female only):

Metered elastic 1/, 2/

LSbc-4

Two (2) rows 3/16 to 1/4-inch apart 1/8-inch from edge

Seat patch LSd-2 Two (2) rows 3/16 to 1/4-inch apart. First row of stitching shall be 1/16 to 1/8-inch from folded edge

Buttonhole fly – join pieces along front edge; turned in edge

SSe-2 or SSc-1

1/16 to 1/8-inch from turned in edge

Join left front and left fly lining along front edge; turned in edge

SSe-2 or SSc-1

1/16 to 1/8-inch from turned in edge

Overedge back edges of left fly lining and buttonhole fly

EFd-1 3/16 to 1/4-inch gauge 502, 503 or 504

J-stitch LSbj-1 2 (± 1/8)-inch from edge 301 Join right front and right fly lining along front edge

SSe-2 or SSc-1

1/16 to 1/8-inch from turned in edge

Overedge right fly raw edges EFd-1 3/16 to 1/4-inch gauge 502, 503 or 504

Crotch seam LSb-2 Two rows 3/16 to 1/4-inch apart.

Stitching shall penetrate both crotch pattern pieces.

Stitching shall end 2-3/4 to 3-inches from inseam.

Hip pocket welt SSbe-2 Hip pocket welt width 1/4 - 3/8 inch

Labels LSbj-1 1/8 to 3/16-inch from edge 301 1/ Style B elastic: Elastic strips shall be sewn and be caught within interior of seam via all four (4) topstitching’s. Inserted elastic shall be capable of meeting the finished measurements in 3.12.1 and Table VIIIB.