NCTRF PD 14-06A Jersey _Mock_.pdf

NCTRF-PD 14-06A

08 February 2007

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

JERSEY, MOCK TURTLENECK

This specification is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Department of the Navy.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for a long sleeve, pullover type jersey (mock turtleneck). The jersey is intended for wear by U.S. Navy personnel for wear as an insulating layer with the Navy’s Men’s Service Dress Blue Jumper and the Navy Working Uniform.

1.2 Schedule of sizes. The jersey will be of one type and is available in the following sizes as specified (see 6.2):

X-Small, Small, Medium, Large, X-Large, XX-Large, XXX-Large

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 or 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 or 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton- or Polyester-Covered

NCTRF CAGE CODE: 32263

NCTRF PD 14-06A

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-32075 - Label; for Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General Use)

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://assist.daps.dla.mil or from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.)

2.3 Non-government publications. The following documents form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILES CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC 8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method AATCC 15 - Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC 16 - Colorfastness to Light AATCC 20A - Fiber Analysis: Quantitative AATCC 61 - Colorfastness to Laundering, Home and Commercial:

Accelerated AATCC 79 - Absorbency of Bleached Textiles AATCC 100 - Antibacterial Finishes on Textile Materials: Assessment of AATCC 135 - Dimensional Changes of Fabrics After Home Laundering

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://www.aatcc.org or AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies of this document are available online at http://www.asq.org/ or from American Society for Quality, P.O. Box 3005, Milwaukee, WI 53201-3005

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D 2594 - Standard Test Method for Stretch Properties of Knitted Fabrics Having Low Power ASTM D 3512 – Standard Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Related Surface

Changes of Textile Fabrics: Random Tumble Pilling Tester ASTM D 3776 - Standard Test Method for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric ASTM D 3787 - Standard Test Method for Bursting Strength of Knitted Goods –

Constant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test ASTM D 3887 - Standard Specification for Tolerances for Knitted Fabrics ASTM D 6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of these documents are available on line at http://www.astm.org or from ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959.)

2.4 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this specification and the references cited herein, the text of this specification shall take precedence. Nothing in this specification, however, shall supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Design and construction. The jersey shall be long sleeve, pullover style and with a self-fabric one-piece collarette. The body shall be two piece with side seams and bottom hem with self fabric cuffs. The back collarette and the shoulder seams shall be reinforced by one continuous length of self-fabric binding approximately 5/8 inch wide.

3.3 Materials and components.

3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be made from a circular knit, flat face with terry looped back (jersey face/terry back). The fabric shall be treated with a durable moisture wicking and topical silver ion anti-microbial finish (see 6.5). The color of the jersey shall be Blue 3346.

The fabric shall conform to the requirements stated in Table I:

Table I – Basic material

CHARACTERISTICS REQUIREMENTS TEST METHOD

Weight, oz/yd.sq. 6.2 to 7.1 ASTM D 3776, Opt. C Wales and courses, (minimum) ASTM D 3887 wales 40 courses 64

Shrinkage, % (maximum) (3 cycles)

AATCC 135 (2)IIAii wales 6.0 courses 7.0

Stretch, % (minimum) wales 40 ASTM D 2594 courses 90 Recovery/Growth, % (maximum) Wale direction after 60 seconds Course direction after 60 seconds Wale direction after 1 hour Course direction after 1 hour

ASTM D 2594

Bursting Strength, psi (minimum)

70 ASTM D 3787

Pilling, scale rating Not less than 4.0 ASTM 3512

Absorption/Drop Wick Test <20 Seconds AATCC 79 Fiber Content 66 % Nylon, 19 % Polyester, 15% Spandex

AATCC 20A

Colorfastness to:

Crocking Not less than grade 4 AATCC 8 Perspiration Specimen: Not less than grade 4

Color transfer: Not less than grade 3

AATCC 15 1/

Light (170 kilojoules) Not less than grade 4 AATCC 16, Opt 3 Laundering (5 cycles) Specimen: Not less than grade 4

Color transfer: Not less than grade 3

AATCC 61, Test 2A 1/

Wicking /Drying:

Initial

After launderings (3 cycles)

2" apparent wet area and a minimum of 0.13% weight differential minimum of 3" apparent wet area with minimum of 0.15% weight differential

2/

2/ and AATCC 135 (2)IIAii

Antimicrobial properties > Log 1 AATCC Method 100

1/ All the stripes on the multifiber test cloth shall be rated.

2/ Wicking/Drying- Test Procedure as follows:

Specimen Preparation- Specimen samples are prepared from original and after 3 laundering in accordance with AATCC-135 (2)(IIAii). Cut specimen 6” X 1” in the wale and course directions. The long dimension is considered the test direction. All specimens must be conditioned in a controlled atmosphere (70 F +/- 2 F, 65% humidity +/- 2%) for a minimum of 4 hours prior to testing.

Sampling- For each test lot, 12 specimens in total shall be required and defined as follows:

Initial set of 3 warp and 3 filling specimens representing side-center-side and final set of 3 warp and 3 filling specimens representing side-center-side after 3 launderings.

Procedure

1) Fill a 250 ml flask with approximately 25 ml of distilled water. Weigh the flask containing the water (= initial flask weight). All weights to be recorded to at least three decimal places out, 1/10,000th.

2) Cut conditioned specimens to 6” X 1” size. Measure and mark approximately1” from the top and ¼” from the bottom.

3) Place pin across the 1” mark so that each end of the pin is exposed and able to be hung over the top of the flask. Utilize the 1” area to mark specimen appropriately (for example: left side after laundering or center initial…).

4) Place specimen in flask containing water by allowing the pin to hang over the edges of the flask. The specimen should not be submerged into the water level higher than the ¼” mark at the bottom of the specimen.

5) Set timer for 30 minutes.

6) After 30 minutes, hold specimen by the 1” area, slightly raise specimen, and gently shake five times while still in flask in order to remove any drops of water that may be sticking to the bottom of the specimen. Remove specimen from flask.

7) Measure the length of the apparent “wet” area of the specimen.

8) Weigh the flask containing the balance of remaining water (= final flask weight).

Report- Measure the distance of the “wet” area measured post subjection to the water to the nearest 1/16th. “.

Calculate the differential mass calculation as follows:

Initial Flask Weight – Final Flask Weight X 100 = % Weight differential Initial Flask Weight

3.4 Visual matching. The color and appearance of the finished basic cloth shall match the standard sample when viewed using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option A, with sources simulating artificial daylight D75 illuminant with a color temperature of 7500 + 200 K illumination of 100 + 20 foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2856+ 200K.

3.5 Thread. Thread shall be 2 or 3 ply conforming to Type I of A-A-50199. The thread color shall be black and a good match the basic material.

3.6 Labels.

3.6.1 Personal/identification/instruction label. Each jersey shall have a combination personal/identification/instruction label conforming to type VI, classes 10 and 15 of MIL-DTL- 32075. The label shall be placed on the inside lower left side seam 2 inches from the finished bottom hem. The label shall bear the following inscription:

NAME:

SERVICE NO:

JERSEY, MOCK TURTLENECK

66% Nylon, 19% Polyester, 15% Spandex (Elastane)

SPO100-00-C-0000 (EXAMPLE)

NAME OF CONTRACTOR:

NAME OF MANUFACTURER: (IF OTHER THAN CONTRACTOR)

LAUNDERING INSTRUCTIONS:

WASH SEPARATELY BEFORE WEARING

Machine Wash, Warm Water (120oF Max), Permanent Press Cycle or

Hand Wash Using Mild Detergent, Rinse Completely.

DO NOT BLEACH

DO NOT WRING OR TWIST

DO NOT DRY CLEAN

Tumble Dry Low Heat

DO NOT USE FABRIC SOFTENERS OR DRIER SHEETS

DO NOT IRON

or

FOLLOW SHIPBOARD FORMULA III

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

3.6.2 Size label. Each jersey shall have a size label conforming to type VI, class 2 of MIL-DTL- 32075. All printing shall be legible for the life of the garment and shall be stitched into the inside of the center back collar seam. There shall be no abbreviations for size and length except for “X” and “XX” in lieu of extra and extra, extra. The size label shall contain the following information for length and size as applicable:

Size: Medium (Example)

NSN: 8415-00-000-0000 (Example)

3.6.3 Bar code label. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The paper used for the tags shall be a standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 100 pounds with a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a hole and be attached to each item by a fastener, clearly legible and readable by scanner. The bar code element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN). There shall be a twelve digit Universal Product Code (UPC) assigned for all NSNs by the Government. The initials “UPC” shall appear beneath code. The bar codes for NSN and UPC shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so that they are completely visible on the item when it is folded and or packaged as specified. The label’s location shall cause no damage to the item.

3.6.4 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible provided that the materials meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.7 Patterns. The Government will furnish a complete set of patterns, which show directional line markings for proper assembly. The Government patterns shall be used as contractor's working patterns. Minor modifications are permitted to accommodate automatic equipment however, the design and finished measurements shall be maintained. These modifications shall not alter the serviceability or appearance requirements.

3.7.1 Pattern List.

CAD NAME SPEC NAME CUT #

FRONT FRONT 1

BACK BACK 1

SLEEVE SLEEVE 2

COLLARETTE COLLAR 1

WRISTLET CUFF 2

3.8 Stitches, seams and stitching. Stitch, seam and stitching types shall conform to the requirements of ASTM D6193 using 301 stitch type unless otherwise specified. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers or open seams result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there is no tight or loose stitching. The guides and knives on the safety stitch machine shall be set to trim only the raveled ends of the fabric. All material edges shall not ravel; edges may be either turned-in, turned-under, serged or seared to prevent raveling. All thread ends shall be trimmed to 1/8 inch minimum and all loose thread shall be removed from the jersey. Raw edges are not acceptable anywhere on the garment. Loose threads shall be removed from the jersey. Stitch gauge for stitching and binding tape shall be 1/4 inch. All 301 and 406 stitching shall have a minimum of 12- 14 stitches per inch. For overedge stitching (stitch type 504 and 514), the stitches per inch shall be a minimum of 20-22.

Table II – Seam and stitches

Seaming Areas Seam type Gauge Stitch Type

Collar, collar joining, cuff attachment, cuff joining

SSa-1 1/4 inch 504

Binding tape Ssag-3 1/4 inch 301

Attach size label to collar

EFf-1 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edges 301

Joining seams, i.e. side seams, sleeve seams, sleeve setting, shoulder seams

SSa-1 1/2 inch

Bottom hem Efa-2 1/4 inch

3.8.1 Thread breaks and ends of seams. Thread breaks and ends of stitching not caught in another line of stitching shall be backstitched at least 1/2 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching (except label) shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of break not less than 1/2 inch.

3.9 Sizes and measurements. Sizes and measurements of the finished jersey shall be as shown in Table III and Table IV. All measurements and tolerances are expressed in inches.

Table III – Sizes and finished dimensions

Measure garment flat in relaxed position, not stretched for measurements (A) through (E) should be taken as follows.

A. ½ chest: Measure across the chest starting at a point 1-inch below the armhole.

B. ½ bottom opening: Measure from folded edge to folded edge at bottom opening.

C. Center back length: Measure from collar joining seam at center back to bottom of shirt.

D. Sleeve length: Measure at top of sleeve at shoulder seam to the end of sleeve including the cuff.

E. ½ collarette circumference: Measure collar from folded edge to folded edge from shoulder seam to shoulder seam.

Table IV – Finished Jersey Part Dimensions

Finished Part 1/ Tolerance Dimension+ Cuff length + 1/8 2 1/4

Collarette height + 1/8 2 Bottom hem + 1/8 3/4

1/ The dimension shall apply to all jersey sizes unless otherwise specified

A B C D E

Size 1/2 Chest

1/2 Bottom Opening

Center Back

Length Sleeve Length

1/2 Collarette Circumference

XS 17 16 1/2 25 1/2 25 1/2 7 1/4

S 19 18 1/2 26 25 3/4 7 1/2 M 21 20 1/2 26 1/2 26 7 3/4 L 23 22 1/2 27 26 1/2 8

XL 25 24 1/2 27 1/2 27 8 1/4

XXL 27 26 1/2 28 27 1/2 8 1/2

XXXL 29 28 1/2 28 1/2 28 8 3/4

Tol. + 1/2 + 1/2 + 1/2 + 1/4 + 1/4

Measure garment flat in relaxed position, not stretched for measurements (F) through (H) should be taken as follows.

F. Cuff length: Measure from sleeve cuff seam to the end of the cuff.

G. Collarette height: Measure from collar seam to the top of the collarette.

H. Bottom hem: Measure from folded edge of garment to the top edge hem, with garment turned inside out.

3.10 Workmanship. The finished jersey shall be uniform in quality and free from defects that adversely affect form, fit, or function and those specified in Table VII.

4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4.1 Classification of Inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

1. First article inspection (see 4.2).

2. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article inspection. First article inspection shall consist of the examinations and tests specified in Table V. The first article inspection shall be unacceptable if the any of requirements in Table III or IV are not met.

4.2.1 First article samples. Unless otherwise specified in the procurement document, first article samples shall be provided. The sample size will be specified in the procurement document. The sample unit shall be one jersey and the lot shall be expressed in units of jerseys.

Table V - First article inspection

Inspection Requirement

Paragraph

Verification Materials and components examinations 3.3.1, 3.5, 3.6 4.4.1 and

Table VI In process inspection Visual and dimensional examinations

3.2, 3.8, 3.8.1, 3.9, 3.10

4.4.2, 4.4.3, 4.4.4

End item inspections:

Visual examination

Dimensional examination

3.2, 3.8, 3.8.1, 3.10

3.9

4.4.2, 4.4.3

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall consist of the examinations and tests specified in Table VI. The presence of any nonconformance to Table V shall be cause to reject any production lot.

Table VI - Conformance inspection

Inspection

Requirement Paragraph

Verification

In process inspection Visual and dimensional examinations

3.2, 3.8, 3.8.1, 3.9

4.4.2, 4.4.3, End item inspection:

Visual examination

Dimensional examination

3.2, 3.8, 3.8.1, 3.10

3.9

4.4.3

4.3.1 Conformance inspection samples. Sampling for conformance inspection shall be performed in accordance with ASQ Z1.4. The sample shall be one jersey and the lot shall be expressed in units of jerseys.

4.4 Methods of inspection.

4.4.1 Material and component verification. Materials and components shall be verified (see 4.3) in accordance with the requirements of Table VII.

Table VII- Material and component verification

Component Requirement paragraph Verification 1/ Basic material 3.3.1 3.3.1 Thread 3.5 A-A-50199 Labels 3.6 MIL-DTL-32075

1/ The material or component shall be evaluated according to the test methods and requirements in its respective document.

4.4.2 In process inspection. Visual and dimensional examinations shall be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to determine whether construction details which cannot be examined in the finished product are in accordance with requirements specified in Section 3. Materials and components, which can be classified as having defects in accordance with Table VII, shall be removed from production.

4.4.3 Visual examination. The end item shall be visually examined for compliance to 3.2 and

3.9. The jersey shall be examined for defects in shade, design, material, construction, and workmanship. The defects shall be classified in accordance with Table VIII.

Table VIII – Additional Defects

EXAMINATION DEFECT

Component part omitted, distorted, full, tight, or twisted; any part of jersey caught in any unrelated stitching, the edge of any component part required to be forced out having folds of more than 1/8 inch, missing or twisted or not as specified. Evidence of needle chew.

Hole, cut, tear, smash, burn, drill hole, run, thin place, dye streak, color not as specified, any part shaded affecting appearance.

serviceability.

Seam: puckered, distorted, pleated, wavy, twisted, irregular or open, loose or tight stitch tension, broken or missing thread or stitch, needle chew, visible mend, edge or raised stitching sewn too close to edge, resulting in damage to cloth, seam allowance not as specified, raw edge affecting appearance or serviceability, stitch tension too tight or loose, open seam ½ inch or more

Length of fronts and back uneven by more than 1/4 inch at top or bottom causing twist when closed.

Collarette not double thickness, improperly attached, uneven in length by 1/8 inch or more, collarette curls, puckers.

Cuff not double thickness, improperly attached, width of each cuff not within 1/8 inch of each other, curls, puckers

Material and workmanship

Sleeves puckered or pleated; uneven in length more than 1/2 inch, poorly shaped.

Hem width not with specified tolerance.

Shade Shade variation within a part or between parts.

Thread color not as specified.

Cleanness Spot, stain, excessive thread ends not trimmed or removed, odor, affecting appearance or serviceability.

Bar Code Labels Omitted, incorrect, illegible, not attached where specified; bar-codes omitted, not readable by scanner; human-readable interpretation (HRI) omitted or illegible; bar code not visible on folded, packaged item; bar code attachment causes damage to the item.

4.4.4 Dimensional examination. The finished jersey shall be examined for conformance to the dimensions specified in 3.9. Any dimension not within the specified tolerance shall be classified as a defect. Sampling is provided in 4.2.1 and 4.3.1.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of materiel is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

6.1 Intended use. This item is intended for wear as an insulating layer with the Navy’s Men’s Service Dress Blue Jumper and the Navy Working Uniform.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Procurement documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this specification.

b. Sizes required (see 1.2).

c. National stock number

d. Applicable Government patterns. (see 3.7.1)

e. When first article inspection is required (see 3.1)

f. Number of first article inspection samples (see 4.2)

g. Name and address of the first inspection facility; and the name and address of the Government activity responsible for conducting the first article inspection program

h. Packaging required (see 5.1)

6.3 First article. When first article inspection (see 3.1) is required, the contracting officer should provide specific guidance to offerors whether the item(s) should be first article sample, a first production item, or a standard production item from the contractor’s current inventory, and the number of items to be tested as specified in 4.2. Invitations for bids should provide that the Government reserves the right to waive the requirement for samples for first article inspection to those bidders offering a product which has been previously acquired or tested by the Government and that bidders offering such products, who wish to rely on such production or tests, must furnish evidence with the bid that prior Government approval is presently appropriate for pending contract. Bidders should not alternate submit bids unless specifically requested to do so in the solicitation.

6.4 Under Armour Cold Gear Style 5580M has been found to meet or exceed the salient characteristics of this purchase description and is available from Under Armour from Under Armour, 1020 Hull Street, Baltimore, MD 21230, telephone (410) 454-6480.

6.5 Milliken Dryline® with Visa Endurance® has been found to meet or exceed the salient characteristics of this purchase description and is available from Milliken and Company, P.O. Box 1926 (M-147), Spartanburg, SC 29304-1926.

6.6 Information requests. For access to information such as patterns, drawings, standard samples, etc. visit DSCP’s Warfighter website, http://warfighter.dla.mil. Choose Vendor Info > Specification/Pattern Request. Complete the request form, and then submit form.

6.7 Subject term (key word) listing.

turtleneck mock Insulation layer

Custodian: Preparing Activity:

Navy-NU Navy-NU

FRONT

NCTRF PD 12-06

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