NCTRF-PD-07-06A.pdf

NCTRF PD 07-06A

12 Dec 2006

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

SLACKS, WOMAN’S, SERVICE, UNBELTED

1. SCOPE

1. Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for the women’s blue 75% polyester/25% wool tropical service uniform slack.

1.2 Classification. The slacks are of one type available in the following sizes and lengths.

Sizes Length

Misses (Even Sizes) 4-26 Petite 4-26 Regular 4-26 Tall

Womens (Even Sizes) 4-26 Petite 4-26 Regular 4-26 Tall

Juniors (Even Sizes) 4-26 Petite 4-26 Regular 4-26 Tall

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General.

The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 or 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 or 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

NCTRF CAGE CODE: 32263

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks.

The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton- or Polyester-Covered A-A-52106 - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend A-A-55634 - Zippers (Fasteners, Slide Interlocking)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

V-B-871 - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple, (Plastic) MIL-DTL-32075 - Label; for Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General Use)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS

MIL-STD-656 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Slacks MIL-STD-984 -Size Labeling for Women’s Uniform Clothing, Provisions for

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://assist.daps.dla.mil or from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those specified in the solicitation or contract.

NAVY CLOTHING AND TEXTILE RESEARCH FACILITY

NCTRF PD 04-06 - Cloth, Tropical: Polyester and Wool

- Navy Button Shades Reference Card

(Copies of this document is available at Defense Supply Center Philadelphia, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia PA 19111 or the procuring activity, see 6.4.)

2.3 Non-government publications. The following documents form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILES CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Test Method 20A Fiber Analysis: Quantitative AATCC Test Method 117 Colorfastness to Heat: Dry (Excluding Pressing) AATCC Test Method 124 Appearance of Fabrics after Repeated Home Launderings AATCC Test Method 132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://www.aatcc.org or AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies of this document are available online at http://www.asq.org/ or from American Society for Quality, P.O. Box 3005, Milwaukee, WI 53201-3005

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D1388 - Standard Test Method for Stiffness of Fabrics ASTM D2724 - Standard for Bonded, Fused, and Laminated Apparel Fabrics ASTM D3776 - Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric ASTM D5034 - Breaking Force and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test) ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of these documents are available on line at http://www.astm.org or from ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959.)

2.4 Order of precedence.

In the event of a conflict between the text of this specification and the references cited herein, the text of this specification would take precedence. Nothing in this specification, however, shall supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Design. The slacks shall contain the following design elements:

- Two-section waistband with seat seam outlet

- Center front closure

- Hook and eye closure with outside button tab

- Slide fastener (nylon)

- 2-quarter top side pockets

- No back pockets

- Straight leg design

- 2 front and 4 back waist darts

- Unhemmed

- Tummy Tamer inside front

- Inseam outlet

- Double needle seat seam

- Permanent creases on front and back legs

3.2.1 Design details.

3.2.1.1 Slide fastener. The slide fastener shall be positioned so the edge of the chain shall be 5/8 inch from front edge at top, tapering to approximately 3/8 inch at bottom. The top of the slide fastener stop shall be no more than ¼ inch below the finished waistband. The bottom stop shall be at a maximum of ¼ inch above fly notch.

3.2.1.2 Darts. The slacks shall have two front and four back waist darts, stitched as indicated on the patterns and folded towards the center front and back, respectively.

3.2.1.3 Quarter top side pockets. The slacks shall have quarter top side pockets. The openings shall be aligned, uniform in length, shall not be distorted and shall measure 6 (+ 1/8) inches between bartacks. There shall be a row of topstitching from bottom bartack to waistband. There shall be a row of edgestitching from the top bartack into the waistband-joining seam. There shall be no notching of the pocket underside beyond the width of the side seam allowance. The ends of the pocket openings shall be bartacked, with the bartack perpendicular to the opening and the bottom bartack shall be across the outseam.

3.2.1.4 Tummy tamer. The tummy tamer shall be constructed from the pocketing material and is single needle set to the pockets and waistband and extends to the slide fastener. The pocket openings shall not be distorted. The bottom edge of the tummy tamer shall be overedged.

3.2.1.5 Waistband. The finished waistband shall measure 1 ¼ (± 1/8) inches wide and shall be edgestitched from end to end on top and bottom of waistband. When attaching the waistband, a differential feed machine shall be used for easing the body panels onto the waistband evenly. This cannot be achieved by flat sewing the waistband onto the slacks.

3.2.1.6 Hook and eye. The hook portion shall be positioned on the inside center of the right waistband with the rolled edge of the hook aligned with the slide fastener scoops. The eye portion shall be positioned on the inside center of the left waistband, aligned with the slide fastener scoops, to correspond with the hook portion. The waistband shall have a reinforcement piece at the end of the waistband for the hook and eye attachment. When the hook and eye are engaged on the finished slacks, the waistband closure shall not bulge, pucker, twist, or be distorted.

3.2.1.7 Front fly. The front fly shall have “J” stitching shall be 1¼ inch from front edge of fly, extending from top of waistband, and curving to fly notch. The edgestitching of the right fly shall be uniformly spaced from edge of fly. The seam joining the front to the right fly shall not be visible on the outside of slacks when closed. The left fly lining shall not be visible on the outside.

The flies shall be smooth, without twists, puckers or excessive fullness. The slacks shall be bartacked at the base of the fly at the junction of the crotch seam and fly, superimposed on the end of the “J” stitching. The slacks shall be bartacked on the inside of the slacks through the left and right fly assembly. The bartack shall be positioned to relieve the tension placed upon the bottom stop, approximately ¾ inch from the base of the fly bartack at a 45º angle from the horizontal.

3.2.1.8 Seat seam. The seat seam shall be joined with a double needle seat seamer with the rows of stitching 1/64 to 1/32 inch apart. The seam from the waistband-joining seam to the top end of the waistband shall be perpendicular (90º angle) to the waistband-joining seam. The inseams shall not be staggered more than 3/8 inches at crotch.

3.2.1.9 Permanent creases. The slacks shall be pressed in accordance with 3.5.1. Each slack shall have a single continuous 1/16 inch (nominal) silicone adhesive non-staining bead applied to the inside the pre-pressed leg creases to form permanent creases. Each bead shall be applied evenly and equally from the top of the crotch to within 2 inches of the open (unfinished) slack bottom.

The top end of the creases shall not be more than 1 inch higher or 2 inches lower than the junction of the inseams at crotch. The creases shall start at the same point on both the front and back of each leg. The length of the creases shall not vary by more than 1-1/2 inches. There shall be no variation in the sharpness of the crease at the front and back parts of the legs.

3.3 Materials.

3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be a tropical, polyester and wool blend, 10.0 (± 0.5) ounces per linear yard, shade Blue 3346 conforming to NCTRF PD 04-06, Class 1.

3.3.2 Pocketing material. The pocketing material for pocketing, tummy tamer and left fly lining shall be twill cloth conforming to class 1 of A-A-52106, except there shall be a minimum of 35% cotton with the remainder polyester. The color for all pocketing shall be black or shall be a good match to the basic material color and be consistent throughout the slacks.

3.3.3 Fusible interlining. The right waistband, left waistband and right fly shall be interlined with a quality nonwoven fusible interlining. Any fused part shall retain its original appearance/properties for the life of the garment. The fusible shall not be visible through the fabric. The fusible shall be nonwoven, polyester/nylon web with a minimum of 50 percent polyester which has been thermally bonded with a resin applied to the substrate. The weight of the fusible cloth including the adhesive shall be 1.7 to 2.4 ounces per square yard cloth and its breaking strength shall be a minimum of 3.0 pounds in the machine direction and 2.0 pounds in the cross machine direction.

3.3.3.1 Fused components. A fused sample consisting of the fusible and the basic material shall meet the requirements specified under Table I when tested as specified in Table VII.

Table I - Component fusing requirements

Characteristic Requirement Stiffness Initial Machine: 13.0 to 38.0 cm

Cross Machine: 6.0 to 22 cm

After 25 launderings Machine: 10.4 to 30.4 cm Cross Machine: 4.8 to 17.6 cm

Peel Strength Initial 20 oz (min.)

After 25 launderings 16 oz (min.)

Appearance Initial No bubbling, delaminating, change, bleed through, or detrimental affect in the shade of the basic material After 25 launderings DP 4.0 rating and no bubbling, delaminating, change, bleed through, or detrimental affect in the shade of the basic material

3.3.4 Thread. The thread shall be cotton-covered polyester core, Ticket no. 50 or 70, conforming to Type I of A-A-50199. The color of the thread shall match Black AA, Cable No. 66043, DOD Standard Shades for Sewing Threads.

3.3.5 Slide fastener. The slide fastener shall be, Type I, style 4 or 5 (continuous) or 3 (pre-assembled), short tab pull, size 1-2, in accordance with A-A-55634. The slide fastener shall be continuous nylon coil. The component parts of the slide fastener shall approximate the color of the basic material, or the color of the coil may be clear. The color of the slide fastener tape shall be black.

3.3.6 Hook and eye. The hook and eye for the waistband closure shall be North and Judd (Hook Flex H-49E50) or YKK (Elite #3, #7, and #8 hook with #8 eye or #85 eye), Akim Co. (Junior Series – type JB, Slim-Slak with MB eye and Slik-Slak) or Stimpson (P-536, D-4086, D4457, D4228) or equal. The finish of both hook and eye shall be nickel plate (see 6.5).

3.3.7 Button. The waistband button shall match the Navy Button Shades Reference Card, Black 400, and shall be 22-ligne melamine, conforming to Type II, Class D, Style 4 of V-B-871.

3.3.8 Permanent crease. The permanent creases in the slacks shall show no evidence of flaking, decomposition, failure to retain crease, cracking, staining or strike back onto the face of the material when tested for resistance to dry heat and perchloroethylene solvent when tested in accordance with 4.4.1.1. The slack samples shall have a minimum rating of “good”.

3.3.9 Labels.

3.3.9.1 Combination label. Each slack shall have a combination identification, instruction, and personal label conforming to Type VI, Classes 10 and 15 of MIL-DTL-32075. The label shall be 1/2 inch from the bottom right edge of the right side pocketing. The label shall face the wearer on the finished slacks. The label shall be lock stitched on all sides. Stitching shall not go through the inscription. All of the printing shall be legible throughout the life of the garment.

The label shall contain the following information:

NAME:

SERVICE NO:

SLACKS, WOMAN’S, SERVICE, UNBELTED

75% POLYESTER/25% WOOL

CONTRACT NO: SPO100-00-0-0000 (EXAMPLE)

NAME OF CONTRACTOR:

NAME OF MANUFACTURER (IF DIFFERENT THAN CONTRACTOR):

LAUNDERING INSTRUCTIONS:

MACHINE WASH – PERMANENT PRESS CYCLE

WARM WATER (120°F MAX), DO NOT BLEACH

TUMBLE DRY MEDIUM HEAT – REMOVE IMMEDIATELY

DO NOT MIX COLORS

DO NOT USE CHLORINE BLEACH

MAY ALSO BE DRY CLEANED

OR

FOLLOW Shipboard Wash Formula III

3.3.9.2 Size label. Each slack shall have a size label sewn into the lower edge of the inside of the waistband in the back of slack conforming to Type VI, Class 2 of MIL-DTL-32075 and body dimension labeling requirements conforming to MIL-STD-984. The label shall indicate size, body dimensions and stock number as shown below.

SIZE CODE: 12 MP (EXAMPLE)

HIP CIRC: 38” (EXAMPLE)

WAIST CIRC: 29-1/2” (EXAMPLE)

HEIGHT: Less than 63-1/2” (P) (EXAMPLE)

STOCK NO: 8410-00-000-0000 (EXAMPLE)

NOTE: Abbreviations for the applicable body types shall be and “W” for Women’s, “M” for Misses, and “J” for Juniors. Abbreviations for the applicable lengths shall be “P” for Petite, “R” for Regular, and “T” for Tall.

All of the printing shall be legible throughout the life of the garment.

3.3.9.3 Removable size and Universal Product Code (UPC) ticket. Each slack shall have a removable size and UPC ticket folded over the outside of the waistband over the left rear darts.

The ticket shall be 3 inches wide and 3-3/8 inches long before folded. The ticket shall be folded over the top of the waistband. The face of the ticket shall measure 3 inches wide by 2 ½ long, the top of the fold shall measure 3 inches by 1/8 inch and the back of the ticket shall measure 3 inches by 1 ¼ inch, made of a suitable plain white cardboard. The ticket shall be printed or stamped in blue or black ink and shall include information on size including body dimensions, as stated on the size label above. The lettering for the size on the front shall be 1/4 inch and the lettering for fold over shall be 1/8 inch. There shall be a twelve digit Universal Product Code (UPC) assigned for all NSNs by the Government. The initials “UPC” shall appear beneath code. The bar codes for UPC shall be a medium to high density.

3.3.10 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible provided that the materials meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.4 Patterns. Standard patterns, to be used to cut working patterns, will be furnished by the Government (see 6.2). The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns. Neither the Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way, except that additional notches for use during construction are permitted on the working patterns. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability or appearance requirements cited in the purchase description. Government patterns provide 3/8-inch seam allowance for all seams, except 1/4-inch for attachment of right fly lining and closing pockets. Seat seam allowance shall be 1-1/4 (+ 1/8) inches at top of waistband tapering to 3/8-inch at notch. The back part of the inseam has an additional ¾ inch added for a total 1-1/8-inch at top to allow for tapering the inseam outlet of back part.

3.4.1 List of pattern parts. The component parts of the slacks shall be cut from the materials as specified and in accordance with the number of parts required for the manufacturing process as specified.

Table II – Pattern Parts List

PIECE NAME SPEC NAME CUT # FABRIC

FRONT_MS Front - Misses 2 Basic material FRONT_JR Front - Juniors 2 Basic material FRONT_WO Front - Women 2 Basic material BACK_MS Back - Misses 2 Basic material BACK_JR Back - Juniors 2 Basic material BACK_WO Back - Women 2 Basic material RIGHTFLY Right Fly 1 Basic material LEFTFLY Left Fly 1 Basic material SDPKBEAR Side Pocket Bearer 2 Basic material SDPKTFACING Side Pocket Facing 2 Basic material RIGHTWBAND Right Waistband 1 Basic material LEFTWBAND Left Waistband 1 Shell RTFLYINT Right Fly Interlining 1 Interlining RTWBANDINT Right Waistband Interlining 1 Interlining LTWBANDINT Left Waistband Interlining 1 Interlining LTFLYLININ Left Fly Lining 1 Pocketing TMMYMR_MS Tummy Tamer - Misses 2 Pocketing TMMYMR_JR Tummy Tamer - Juniors 2 Pocketing TMMYMR_WO Tummy Tamer - Women 2 Pocketing SIDEPOCKET Side Pocket 2 Pocketing

3.4.2 Stitches, seams and stitching. Stitch, seam and stitching types shall conform to the requirements of ASTM D6193. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers or open seams result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. All stitching shall be uniformly gauged throughout the slacks. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there is no tight or loose stitching. The guides and knives on the safety stitch machine shall be set to trim only the raveled ends of the fabric. All thread ends shall be trimmed to a maximum of 1/8 inch and all loose thread shall be removed from the slacks. The bottom of the slacks shall be overedged or pinked. Inseam and outseams shall be busted and overedged.

Topstitching shall be 1/4 inch and edgestitching shall be 1/16 inch from edge. . The 301-stitch type edgestitching and topstitching shall be 12-14 stitches per inch. All other 301 or 401stitch types shall have 10-12 stitches per inch. For overedge stitching, the stitches per inch shall have 8- 12 stitches per inch. All bartacks shall be 3/8 inch.

3.4.2.1 Thread breaks and ends of seams. Thread breaks and ends of stitching not caught in another line of stitching shall be backstitched at least 1/2 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching (except label) shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. The ends of the label stitching shall be overlapped not less than 3 stitches. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitches or thread breaks (401 stitch type) may be repaired using 301-stitch type. The bartacks shall have 42-46 stitches per bartack. The seat seam cannot be repaired it must be completely resewn.

3.5 Pressing. The slacks shall be fully pressed and the legs creased with the inseams and outseams matching at the bottoms and knees. The crotch and seat seam shall be pressed open.

3.6 Shade and size marking. The component parts of the slacks shall be marked or ticketed to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the item. Any method may be used except those listed below. The use of ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp or pencil is allowed, provided the numbering does not show on the outside of the item and wherever possible, is covered by the seam allowance.

(1) Corrosive metal fastening devices

(2) Sew-on shade tickets

(3) Adhesive type tickets, which discolor or adhere to the material upon removal of tickets.

3.7 Sizes and measurements. The finished measurements shall be as follows: (all measurements and tolerances are expressed in inches).

Table III – Table of Finished Measurements

Size (A) Waist (B) Hip (C) Bottom Juniors Misses Women’s

4 24 ½ 35 ¼ 37 39 19 1/8 6 25 ½ 36 ¼ 38 40 19 3/8 8 26 ½ 37 ¼ 39 41 19 5/8 10 28 38 ¾ 40 ½ 42 ½ 19 7/8 12 29 ½ 40 ¼ 42 44 20 1/8 14 31 41 ¾ 43 ½ 45 ½ 20 3/8 16 33 43 ¾ 45 ½ 47 ½ 20 5/8 18 35 45 ¾ 47 ½ 49 ½ 20 7/8 20 37 47 ¾ 49 ½ 51 ½ 21 1/8 22 39 49 ¾ 51 ½ 53 ½ 21 3/8 24 41 51 ¾ 53 ½ 55 ½ 21 5/8 26 43 53 ¾ 55 ½ 57 ½ 21 7/8

Tolerance ± ½ ± ½ ± ½ ± ½ ± ½

Inseam Length (D) All Petites (P) - 32 All Regulars (R) - 33 All Talls (T) - 35 Tolerance - ± ½

All measurements shall be taken with slacks smooth and flat.

(A) WAIST - Twice the measurement taken in center of waistband, with hook and eye, and slide fastener closed, from folded edge to folded edge.

(B) HIP - Twice the measurement taken from folded edge to folded edge at fly bartack, with hook and eye, and slide fastener closed. The measurement shall be taken with slacks smooth and flat.

(C) BOTTOM - Twice the measurement taken from folded edge to folded edge across bottom of leg.

(D) INSEAM - Length measurement taken along inseam from crotch seam to bottom edge.

3.8 Workmanship. The finished slacks shall be uniform in quality and free from defects that adversely affect form, fit, or function and those specified in MIL-STD-656 for dress slacks and Table VIII.

4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4.1 Classification of inspection.

The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

1. First article inspection (see 4.2).

2. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article inspection. First article inspection shall consist of the examinations and tests specified in Table IV. The first article inspection shall be unacceptable if the requirements in Table IV are not met.

4.2.1 First article samples. Unless otherwise specified in the procurement document, first article samples shall be provided. The sample size will be specified in the procurement document. The sample unit shall be one slack and the lot shall be expressed in units of slacks.

Table IV - First article inspection

Inspection

Requirement Paragraph

Verification

Materials and components examinations 3.3.1, 3.3.2, 3.3.3, 3.3.4, 3.3.5, 3.3.6, 3.3.7, 3.3.8, 3.3.9

Table VI

In process inspection Visual and dimensional examinations Fused components

3.2, 3.6, 3.7 3.3.3

4.4.4, 4.4.5 4.4.2

End item inspections:

Visual examination Dimensional examination

3.2, 3.7 3.6

4.4.4 4.4.5

4.3 Conformance inspection.

Conformance inspection shall consist of the examinations and tests specified in Table V. The presence of any nonconformance to Table V shall be cause to reject any production lot.

Table V - Conformance inspection

Inspection Requirement

Paragraph

Verification In process inspection Visual and dimensional examinations

Fused components

3.2, 3.6, 3.7

3.3.3

4.4.4, 4.4.5, 4.4.6 4.4.2

End item inspection:

Visual examination Dimensional examination

3.2, 3.7 3.6

4.4.4 4.4.5

4.3.1 Conformance inspection samples.

Sampling for conformance inspection shall be performed in accordance with ASQ Z1.4. The sample shall be one slack and the lot shall be expressed in units of slacks.

4.4 Methods of inspection.

4.4.1 Material and component verification.

Materials and components shall be verified (see 4.2) in accordance with the requirements of Table

VI.

Table VI - Material and component verification

Component Requirement paragraph Verification 1/ Basic material 3.3.1 NCTRF PD 04-06 Pocketing 3.3.2 A-A-52106 Interlining 3.3.3 4.4.2 Thread 3.3.4 A-A-50199 Slide Fastener 3.3.5 A-A-55634 Hook and eye 3.3.6 2/ Buttons 3.3.7 V-B-871 Permanent creases 3.3.8 4.4.1.1 Labels 3.3.9 MIL-DTL-32075

1/ The material or component shall be evaluated according to the test methods and requirements in its respective document.

2/ Certificate of compliance accepted.

4.4.1.1 Permanent crease testing. Slacks lots shall be tested as specified in paragraph 4.4.1.1.1 and 4.4.1.1.2 prior to the presentation of each lot. The sample unit for each specified test shall be one slack selected at random from the end item lot. The test specimens shall be cut for testing from each slacks. A single result of failure in any of the specified tests shall be recorded as a lot failure.

4.4.1.1.1 Permanent crease resistance tests. Permanent creases shall be tested for resistance to dry heat (3 exposures) in accordance with AATCC 117 at a minimum of 400 degree F and perchloroethylene solvent (3 exposures) in accordance with AATCC 132.

4.4.1.1.2 Permanency of crease test. The permanent crease test specimen shall be soaked for 30 minutes in water containing a minimum amount of suitable wetting agent to thoroughly wet out the cloth. The temperature of the water shall be 165 (+ 5) degrees F. The wet out specimen shall be removed without squeezing and shall be air dried or dried at a temperature not exceeding 180 degrees F, while laying flat on an absorbent surface such as paper hand toweling or kitchen type tissue. The wet out and dried out specimen shall be compared with the untreated sample prepared in the same manner. The sharpness of the crease on the test specimen shall not be less than that of the untreated sample. Results shall be reported as “pass” or “fail”.

4.4.2 Fused component verification.

Each fused sample selected for verification shall be verified in accordance with the test methods stated of Table VII.

Table VII - Fusible component verification testing

Characteristic Verification Weight ASTM D3776, Option C Fiber Content AATCC 20A Breaking Strength ASTM D5034 Stiffness Initial ASTM D1388, Option A After 25 launderings ASTM D1388, Option A, AATCC 124 1/ Peel strength 2/ Initial ASTM D2724 3/ After 25 launderings ASTM D2724 3/ Appearance 2/ Initial Visual After 25 launderings Visual, AATCC 124 1/ 4/

1/ One fused 15 x 15 inch sample per 1000 fused pieces shall be laundered. Wash temperature shall be 140 (± 5) degrees F, 60 (± 3) degrees C. Drying shall be performed only after the 25th washing. The evaluation portion of the AATCC test method shall not apply. Pressing of the sample prior to evaluation shall be prohibited.

2/ A fused sample shall be tested in accordance with Table VII for peel strength and appearance at the beginning of a contract, anytime the press is down, after 1000 cut pieces have been fused, and at the end of the contract. The fused sample shall be a 15 X 15 inch swatch.

3/ The fused sample shall be accepted if the fusible either splits from itself rather than separate from the outer shell material or if it begins to separate from the outer shell material higher than the minimum peel strength and then splits from itself.

4/ Sample size shall be governed by AATCC 124. The samples shall be visually examined for conformance. The results shall be reported as pass or fail.

4.4.2.1 Adhesion testing of fusible. Prior to fusing each 1,000 parts, a sample of equivalent area to a part shall be fused for visual and adhesion testing. The sample shall be allowed to cool completely before testing. After visual examination for bubbling, delaminating, and bleed through, the sample shall be cut to a 1 inch width and peeled in the warp direction using a spring scale or suitable device capable of measuring the peel strength requirement specified in 3.3.3.1 or showing any bubbling, delaminating, or bleed through shall be cause for rejection of the previous 1,000 fused parts. No fusing shall be performed after the rejection of a 1,000-part lot until the machine has been properly adjusted to produce a passing sample. The rejected lot shall then be replaced with a shade matched lot, which has been fused correctly. Rejection of the previously fused parts shall not apply to the first sample tested after machine warm up.

4.4.3 In process inspection. Visual and dimensional examinations shall be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to determine whether construction details which cannot be examined in the finished product are in accordance with requirements specified in Section 3. Materials and components, which can be classified as having defects in accordance with MIL-STD-656, shall be removed from production.

4.4.4 Visual examination. The end item shall be visually examined for compliance to 3.2 and 3.7.

The slacks shall be examined for defects in shade, design, material, construction, and workmanship. The defects shall be classified in accordance with MIL-STD-656 for dress slacks and in accordance with Table VIII.

Table VIII - Additional defects

Defect Point

Value

a. Production and shade tickets not removed. 1

b. Permanent Creases.

1. Omitted, not as specified or not in alignment, misaligned, crooked, silicone not in crease line, wavy, angled, or not positioned vertically straight.

Number of creases not as specified, creases do not create the appearance of a single continuous line, silicone crease not 1/16 inch (nominal).

2. Application of permanent creases:

(a) Any staining, strikethrough or bleed through onto face of basic fabric

(b) Evidence of flaking, decomposition, failure to retain crease, cracking, missing silicone, voids, not uniform application, excessive silicone, cracking.

c. Barcode label.

1. Barcode label omitted or not readable by scanner, human readable interpretation (HRI) omitted or illegible, not visible on folded, packaged item,

2. Causes damage to the item.

4.4.5 Dimensional examination. The finished slacks shall be examined for conformance to the dimensions specified in 3.7 and in Table III. Any dimension not within the specified tolerance shall be classified as a defect. The lot size shall be expressed in units of slacks. The sample unit shall be one slack.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of materiel is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

6.1 Intended use. Female Navy personnel intend the slacks for wear as part of the service uniform.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Procurement documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this document.

b. Sizes required (see 1.2).

c. National stock number

d. Applicable Government patterns. (see 3.4.1)

e. When first article inspection is required (see 3.1)

f. Number of first article inspection samples (see 4.2)

g. Name and address of the first inspection facility; and the name and address of the Government activity responsible for conducting the first article inspection program

h. Packaging required (see 5.1)

6.3 First article. When first article inspection (see 3.1) is required, the contracting officer should provide specific guidance to offerors whether the item(s) should be first article sample, a first production item, or a standard production item from the contractor’s current inventory, and the number of items to be tested as specified in 4.2. Invitations for bids should provide that the Government reserves the right to waive the requirement for samples for first article inspection to those bidders offering a product which has been previously acquired or tested by the Government and that bidders offering such products, who wish to rely on such production or tests, must furnish evidence with the bid that prior Government approval is presently appropriate for pending contract. Bidders should not alternate submit bids unless specifically requested to do so in the solicitation.

6.4 Information requests. For access to information such as patterns, drawings, standard samples, etc. visit DSCP’s Warfighter website, http://warfighter.dla.mil. Choose Vendor Info > Specification/Pattern Request. Complete the request form, and then submit form.

6.5 Hook and eye suggested source of supply. The suggested sources of supply for the waistband hook and eye are as follows:

North & Judd YKK Snap Fasteners, America 699 Middle Street P.O. Box 240 Middletown CT 06457 Lawrenceburg KY 40342

Akim Engineering Company Stimpson Fasteners 131 Ash Street 900 Sylvan Avenue Willimantic CT 06280 Bayport NY 11705

6.6 Subject term (key word) listing:

Material, polyester/wool blend Tropical Pants Bottoms Tummy tamer

Custodian: Preparing activity:

Navy-NU Navy-NU

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS

MACHINE WASH – PERMANENT PRESS CYCLE

FOLLOW Shipboard Wash Formula III

Table II – Pattern Parts List

PIECE NAME SPEC NAME CUT # FABRIC

Table III – Table of Finished Measurements

ASTM D1388, Option A

Table VIII - Additional defects