NCTRF-PD 06-06B.pdf

1. SCOPE

NCTRF-PD 06-06B

19 June 2007

SUPERSEDING

NCTRF-PD 06-06A

25 April 2007

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

BLOUSE, WOMAN'S, SERVICE, KHAKI

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for a woman's short sleeve blouse with open notch collar.

1.2 Classification. The blouse is of one type and available in following sizes and lengths (see 6.2).

Sizes: 4 through 26 (even sizes only) Body Lengths: Petite, Regular, Tall, X-Tall and XX-Tall

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 or 4 of this purchase description. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this purchase description or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 or 4 of this purchase description, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

- Cloth, Interlining, Polyester

- Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton- or Polyester-Covered

NCTRF CAGE CODE: 32263

NCTRF PD 06-06B

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

- Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple, (Plastic)

- Label; for Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General Use)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARD

- Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Men's Shirts

- Department of Defense Standard Shades for Sewing Thread

(Copies of these documents are available online at htt~://assist.da~s.dla.mil or from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19 1 1 1-5094.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those specified in the solicitation or contract.

NAVY CLOTHING AND TEXTILE RESEARCH FACILITY

NCTRF PD 04-06 - Cloth, Tropical: Polyester and Wool

- Navy Button Shades Reference Card

(Copies of this document is available at Defense Supply Center Philadelphia, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia PA 191 11 or the procuring activity, see 6.4.)

2.3 Non-government publications. The following documents form a part of this purchase description to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ASQ 21.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies of this document are available online at http://~vww.asq.orrr/ or from American Society for Quality, P.O. Box 3005, Milwaukee, WI 53201-3005

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of these documents are available on line at htt~://www.astm.or~ or from ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959.)

2.4 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this purchase description and the references cited herein, the text of this purchase description shall take precedence.

Nothing in this purchase description, however, shall supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Design. The blouse shall be semi fitted hip length with two-piece split front with tapered waistline on side seams and a three piece back matching split front at shoulders. The blouse shall have an open notch (sport type) collar and !h collarstand and set in short sleeves with 1" hem.

The blouse shall have a button front closure with vertical buttonholes. The front facings shall be backed with interlining. The collar and '/z collarstand shall be edgestitched and the bottom hem shall be overedged and blindstitched 1-112 inches. The collar, !h collarstand and front facings shall be interlined. The blouse shall have one replacement button.

3.2.1 Design details.

3.2.1.1 Buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be double barred, straight style. The finished cut length of the buttonhole shall be 9/16 inch. The stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric, and the ends shall be securely tacked. The buttonholes shall have both ends securely barred.

The buttonholes shall be cut clean and all loose threads shall be trimmed to within 118 inch of the tack. Loose threads (floats) in the buttonholes shall be prohibited.

3.2.1.1.1 Buttonhole placement. All front buttonholes shall be placed on the blouse in accordance with the marks on the finished buttonhole template. The front closure buttonholes shall be placed on the right side of the blouse as worn. The buttonholes shall be vertically aligned on right center front 314 inch (i 1/16) inch from cut of buttonhole and parallel to the blouse's front folded edge. There shall be five (5) vertical buttonholes for lengths Petite through Tall and six (6) vertical buttonholes for lengths X-Tall and XX-Tall.

3.2.1.2 Buttons. The buttons shall be securely sewn by machine to the blouse by lockstitch and attached by x-stitch. The buttons shall be properly aligned and centered to correspond with its corresponding buttonhole. Loose threads from the button stitching shall be trimmed to 118 inch.

The center of the buttons shall be 314 (2 118) inch from the folded edge.

One replacement button shall be placed at the side seam of the blouse.

3.2.1.3 Collar. The underside of the collar shall not be visible on the finished side of the blouse.

The collar shall be edgestitched. The pointed ends of the collar shall be uniform in shape and the ends equal distance from the blouse front edges. The collar shall be pressed smooth and flat.

The blouse shall not have collar stays. The collar shall be sandwiched between the plies of the !4 collarstand.

3.2.1.4 Collarstand. The 112 collarstand shall be edgestitched. When the collar is in the finished position, the neckline seam shall not be visible.

3.2.1.5 Front facing. The center front turned back facing shall be attached at the shoulder seam by positioning the ends of the facing even with the edges of the shoulder seam allowance and stitching to seam allowance or the ends of the facings may be secured to the shoulder seam with a tack. The tack shall not be exposed on the outside of the blouse. Distance from end of collar to finished front edge shall measure 518 (* 118) inch.

3.2.1.6 Blouse bottom hem. The bottom raw edge of the blouse shall be overedged and then clean finished to form the center front V-shaped opening. The blind stitched hem shall partially penetrate the body fabric. The hem shall extend under the facing. The stitching shall extend across the front facings, 314 to 1 inch from overedge stitching edge. V-overlap points shall match template both in dimension and distance. The length of the V shall be 3-% (k 118) inches. The distance between v-points shall be 3-318 (* 118) inches. The pointed ends of the V-overlap shall be uniform in shape and of equal length.

3.2.1.7 Sleeve hem. The underarm sleeve shall be joined first and then the sleeve hemmed. The raw edge of the sleeve shall be turned under and stitched, no raw edges or overedging is allowed.

3.2.1.8 Figures. Figures are furnished for information purposes only. When inconsistencies exist between the written purchase description and the figures, the written purchase description shall govern.

3.3 Materials and components.

3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for the blouse shall be a tropical, polyester and wool blend, 10.0 (* 0.5) ounces per linear yard, shade Khaki 3729 conforming to NCTRF PD 04-06, Class 2.

3.3.2 Interlinings. The collar and collarstand shall conform to A-A-50135 (250 denier polyester) and the interlining shall be cut on the bias. The front facings shall conform to A-A-501 35 (150 denier polyester). The interlinings shall be to the top ply of all components and shall be natural or approximate the color of the basic material.

3.3.3 Thread. The thread shall be cotton covered polyester-core thread, conforming to A-A- 50 199, Type 1, Ticket No. 70,2 ply. The thread color shall be Khaki P-1 , Cable No. 660 19 in accordance with DOD Standard Shades for Sewing Threads.

3.3.4 Buttons. The buttons used on the blouse's front closure and pocket flaps shall conform to the Navy Button Shades Reference Card, Khaki 300, and shall be 20-ligne melamine, Type 11, Class D, Style 24 of V-B-87 1.

3.3.5 Labels.

3.3.5.1 Personal/identification/instruction label. Each blouse shall have a combination persona11identification~instruction label conforming to VI, classes 10 and 15 of MIL-DTL-

32075. The label shall be placed on the left front facing on the inside of the blouse (as worn) with the bottom of the label 3-114 (& %) inches from the bottom of the finished blouse. The label shall be stitched on all four sides 118 to 3/16 inch from its edge and shall not go through the printing. All of the printing shall be legible throughout the expected life of the blouse. The color of the label shall be white. The label shall bear the following inscription:

NAME:

SERVICE NO:

BLOUSE, WOMAN'S, SERVICE, KHAKI

FIBER CONTENT: POLYESTER (75%) - WOOL (25%)

CONTRACT NO: SP0 100-00-0-0000 (example)

NAME OF CONTRACTOR

NAME OF MANUFACTURER (If other than contractor):

LAUNDERING INSTRUCTIONS:

MACHINE WASH, WARM WATER (120°F MAX), PERMANENT PRESS CYCLE

DO NOT MIX COLORS

DO NOT USE CHLORINE BLEACH

TUMBLE DRY, MEDIUM HEAT- REMOVE IMMEDIATELY

TOUCH UP WITH WARM IRON, IF NEEDED

MAY ALSO BE DRY CLEANED

or

FOLLOW SHIPBOARD WASH FORMULA I11

3.3.5.2 Size label. Each blouse shall have a size label conforming to VI, class 2 of MIL-DTL- 32075. The size label shall be stitched in collar joining seam at center back. All printing shall be legible for the life of the garment. The label shall also reflect the body length designation adjacent to the size designation. The inscription shall be as stated below.

8 Regular (example) 84 10-00-000-0000 (example)

Note: The body length designation shall not be abbreviated.

3.3.5.3 Bar code label. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The paper used for the tags shall be a standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 100 pounds with a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a hole and be attached to each item by a fastener, clearly legible and readable by scanner. The bar code element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN). There shall be a twelve digit Universal Product Code (UPC) assigned for all NSNs by the Government. The initials "UPC" shall appear beneath code. The bar codes for NSN and UPC shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so that they are completely visible on the item when it is folded and or packaged as specified. The label's location shall cause no damage to the item.

3.3.6 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally referable materials. Recycled, recovered, or

NCTFW PD 06-06B

environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible provided that the materials meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.4 Patterns. Standard patterns, to be used to cut working patterns, will be furnished by the Government (see 6.2). The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns.

Neither the Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way, except that additional notches for use during construction are permitted on the working patterns. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability or appearance requirements cited in the purchase description. The Government patterns provides for a 114 inch seam allowance for all seams without trimming, unless otherwise specified.

3.4.1 List of pattern parts. The component parts of the blouse shall be cut from the materials as specified and in accordance with the number of parts required for the manufacturing process as specified.

PIECE NAME

Table I - List of pattern parts.

CUT# SPEC NAME COMMENTS

Basic Material: I CENTR FRNT Center front 2 I SIDE FRONT Side front 2 I CENTR-BACK Center back 1 SIDE-BACK Side back 2 I SLEEVE Sleeve 2 COLLAR Collar 2 COLLAR-STD Collarstand 2 Templates:

BHLMKR-A Buttonhole marker - A TEMPLATE Petite to Tall only BHLMKR-B Buttonhole marker - B TEMPLATE XTall to XXTall only V-FINTEMPL V-Finished opening TEMPLATE To use at hemline

Interlining:

FRTFACINT Front facing interlining 2 COLLARINT Collar interlining 1 COLSTDINT Collarstand interlining 1

Note: For templates provided with pattern pieces, the template shall be used to verify size, uniformity andlor dimensions of finished garments.

3.4.2 Stitches, seams and stitching. Stitch, seam and stitching types shall conform to the requirements of ASTM D6193. The blouse's front facings shall be overedged. Sleeves shall have an edgestitched hem after side seaming. The underarm seams, side seams, split-front seams, and sleeve setting seams shall be safety stitched. All seam allowances are 114 inch without trimming. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckered or open seams result. All seams shall start and finish evenly.

Thread tension shall be maintained so that there is no tight or loose stitching. Where stitch type 401 is used, the looper (under thread) shall be on the inside of the blouse. Edgestitching shall be 1/16 inch. The guides and knives on the safety stitch machine shall be set to trim only the raveled ends of the fabric. All thread ends shall be trimmed to 118 inch and all loose thread shall be removed from the blouse. Raw edges shall not be permitted anywhere on the garment. Loose threads shall be removed from the blouse. All other 30 1 or 401 stitch types shall have 12- 14 stitches per inch. For overedge and safety stitching, the stitches per inch shall have 8-12 stitches per inch. For blindstitching, the stitches per inch shall have 4 to 6 stitches per inch. Backtacking and backstitching shall be '/4 inch minimum.

3.4.2.1 Thread breaks and ends of seams. Thread breaks and ends of stitching not caught in another line of stitching shall be backstitched at least 112 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching (except label) shall be overlapped not less than 112 inch. The ends of the label stitching shall be overlapped not less than 3 stitches. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of break not less than 112 inch. Skipped stitches or thread breaks (401 stitch type) may be repaired by using 301 stitch type.

3.4.2.2 Pressing. The blouse shall be fully pressed. The split front seams shall be pressed towards the side seams and the blouse back seams pressed towards the center back. The lapels shall be roll pressed to the top button and shall not be hard pressed.

3.5 Shade and size marking;. The component parts of the blouse shall be marked or ticketed to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method may be used except those listed below. The use of ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp or pencil is allowed, provided the numbering does not show on the outside of the garment and wherever possible, is covered by the seam allowance.

(1) Corrosive metal fastening devices

(2) Sew-on shade tickets

(3) Adhesive type tickets, which discolor or adhere to the material upon removal of tickets.

3.6 Sizes and measurements. Sizes and measurements of the finished blouse shall be as shown in Tables I1 and I11 when measured as in 4.4.4. All measurements and tolerances are expressed in inches.

Table I1 - Finished dimensions for blouse

11 The dimension shall apply to all body sizes within the same length designation. -

E Center Back Length

XX-

TALL

E Center Back Length

TALL

Center Back Length

REGULAR

E Center Back Length X-

TALL

E Center Back Length

PETITE

D Waist

C Sweep

B % Bust

Size

A Collar

Measuring Instructions for Table I1 refer to Figures 1 - 3. B, C, D and E measurements shall be taken with the finished blouse buttoned, laid flat and smooth.

A. Collar - Measurement shall be taken straight across from collar edge to collar edge along base of collar.

B. ?4 Bust - Measurement shall be taken across front at armhole seam from folded edge to folded edge.

C. ?4 Sweep - Measurement shall be taken straight across at the bottom edge of the hem from folded edge to folded edge with blouse buttoned.

D. ?4 Waist - For Petite, Regular and Tall lengths - Measurement shall be taken at waist level from folded edge to folded edge approximately M inch below the 4th button.

For X-Tall and XX-Tall lengths - Measurement shall be taken at waist level from folded edge to folded edge approximately one inch above the 5th button.

E. Center back length (all lengths) - Center back length shall be taken along the center of the back from undercollar seam to bottom edge of blouse.

F. Sleeve Length - Measurement shall be taken from armhole seam along underseam to bottom edge of sleeve.

Table I11 - Finished blouse part dimensions

11 The dimension shall apply to all blouse sizes unless otherwise specified. -

Finished blouse part 11 Collar height (G) '/Z collarstand height (H) Collar point length (I) Sleeve hem width (J) Bottom hem width (K)

Measuring Instructions for Table 111 refer to Figures 1 and 3. There are no figures for the J and K measurements.

Finished Dimensions (inches) 1-718 to 2- 118 718 to 1-118 2-314 to 3 718 to 1-118 1-318 to 1-518

G. Collar Height - Measure collar height at center back from collarstand seam to top collar edge at center back.

H. !4 Collarstand Height - Measure '/z collarstand height from neckline seam to top of stand at center back.

I. Collar Point Length - Measure collar point length from end of point to neckline seam.

J. Sleeve Hem Width - Measure from bottom edge of sleeve to hem stitching line.

K Bottom Hem Width - Measure from bottom of blouse to stitching line.

3.7 Workmanship. The finished blouses shall be uniform in quality and free from defects that affect form, fit, or function and appearance, and those specified in MIL-STD-1492 for dress shirts and Table VII, except reverse right and left locations as applicable for women's blouses.

4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4.1 Classification of Inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

1 . First article inspection (see 4.2).

2. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article inspection. First article inspection shall consist of the examinations and tested specified in Table IV.

4.2.1 First article samples. Unless otherwise specified in the procurement document, first article samples shall be provided. The sample size will be specified in the procurement document. The sample unit shall be one blouse and the lot shall be expressed in units of blouses.

Table IV - First article inspection.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall consist of the examinations and tests specified in Table V.

Table V - Conformance inspection.

Inspection Materials and components examinations

In process inspection Visual and dimensional examinations

End item inspections:

Visual examination

Dimensional examination

Requirement Paragraph

3.3.1, 3.3.2, 3.3.3, 3.3.4, 3.3.5

3.2, 3.4.2, 3.4.2.1, 3.4.2.2, 3.5, 3.6, 3.7

3.2, 3.7

3.6

Inspection In process inspection

Visual and dimensional examinations

Dimensional examination 1 3.6 1 4.4.4

Verification Table VI

4.4.2,4.4.3, 4.4.4, Table

VII

4.4.3, Table

VII

4.4.4

End item inspection:

Visual examination

Requirement Paragraph

3.2, 3.4.2, 3.4.2.1, 3.4.2.2, 3.5, 3.6, 3.7

Verification

4.4.2,4.4.3, 4.4.4, Table VII

3.2, 3.4.2, 3.4.2.1, 3.4.2.2, 3.5, 3.6, 3.7

4.4.3, Table VII

4.3.1 Conformance inspection samples. Sampling for conformance inspection shall be performed in accordance with ASQ 21.4. The sample shall be one blouse and the lot shall be expressed in units of blouses.

4.4 Methods of inspection.

4.4.1 Material and component verification. Materials and components shall be verified (see 4.2) in accordance with the requirements of Table VI.

Table VI - Material and component verification

11 The material or component shall be evaluated according to the test methods and requirements -in its respective document.

4.4.2 In process inspection. Visual and dimensional examinations shall be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to determine whether construction details which cannot be examined in the finished product are in accordance with requirements specified in Section 3. Materials and components, which can be classified as having defects in accordance with MIL-STD-1492 for dress shirts, except reverse right and left locations as applicable for women's blouses, shall be removed from production.

Verification 11

NCTRF PD 04-06

A-A-50135 A-A-50 1 99 V-B-871

MIL-DTL-32075

Component Basic material Sew-in interlining Thread Buttons Labels

4.4.3 Visual examination. The end item shall be visually examined for compliance to 3.2. 3.4.2, 3.4.2.1, 3.4.2.2 and 3.7. The blouse shall be examined for defects in shade, design, material, construction, and workrnanship. The defects shall be classified in accordance with MIL-STD- 1492 for dress shirts except reverse right and left locations as applicable for women's blouses, and Table VII.

Requirement paragraph 3.3.1 3.3.2 3.3.3 3.3.4 3.3.5

Table VII - Additional defects

Defect

a. Buttonhole. Uncut, or partially cut, poorly cut; ragged edges, i.e., yarns or thread ends on inside of buttonholes not trimmed to less than 114 inch, or basic fabric not caught by buttonhole stitching

1. One or more but less than 3

2. Three or more

b. Button.

1. Stitching not caught through all plies

Point Value

4.4.4 Dimensional examination. The finished blouse shall be examined for conformance to the dimensions specified in 3.6 and in Table I1 and Table 111. Any dimension not within the specified tolerance shall be classified as a defect. The lot size shall be expressed in units of blouses. The sample unit shall be one blouse.

c. Barcode.

1. Barcode label omitted or not readable by scanner, human readable interpretation

(HRI) omitted or illegible, not visible on folded, packaged item,

2. Causes damage to the item.

d. Appearance I. Front and back split seams at shoulder staggered more than 1/16 inch

2. Edgestitch not located in accordance with design details

3. Thread shank on button

4. Bottom hem -

a. Bottom hem stitching - Blindstitch bight too deep and threads visible on outside of blouse, at distance of three feet.

b. Bottom hem appearance - Facing exposed on outside of V overlap, twisted or tight.

5. V-overlap length or distance not in accordance with template and finished dimensions.

6. V -overlap points not properly forced out.

7. Buttonhole placement not in accordance with template.

8. Lapel not rolled pressed as specified.

9. Pointed ends of the V-overlap not uniform in shape or not of equal length.

10. Distance from end of collar to finished front edge greater than % inches or less than !h inch.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (gee 6.2). When packaging of materiel is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point's packaging activities within the Military Service or Defense Agency, or within the military service's system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department's or Defense Agency's automated packaging files, CD-ROM products or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES.

6.1 Intended use. The blouses are intended for wear by female Navy personnel as part of the service uniform.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Procurement documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this purchase description.

b. Sizes and lengths required (see 1.2).

c. National stock number

d. Applicable Government patterns. (see 3.4.1)

e. When first article inspection is required (see 3.1)

f. Number of first article inspection samples (see 4.2)

g. Name and address of the first inspection facility; and the name and address of the Government activity responsible for conducting the first article inspection program

h. Packaging required (see 5.1)

6.3 First article. When first article inspection (see 3.1) is required, the contracting officer should provide specific guidance to offerors whether the item(s) should be first article sample, a first production item, or a standard production item from the contractor's current inventory, and the number of items to be tested as specified in 4.2. Invitations for bids should provide that the Government reserves the right to waive the requirement for samples for first article inspection to those bidders offering a product which has been previously acquired or tested by the Government and that bidders offering such products, who wish to rely on such production or tests, must hrnish evidence with the bid that prior Government approval is presently appropriate for pending contract. Bidders should not alternate submit bids unless specifically requested to do so in the solicitation.

6.4 Information requests. For access to information such as patterns, drawings, standard samples, etc. visit DSCP's Warfighter website, htt~:l/~varfiahter.dla.mil. Choose Vendor Info > SpecificationPattern Request. Complete the request form, and then submit form.

6.5 Subiect term (key word) listing.

Material, polyesterlwool blend Tropical Interlining

Preparing activity:

Navy-NU

Custodian:

Navy-NU

Figures

Figure 1 a and 1 b - Finished Blouse (front view)

Figure 2 - Finished Blouse (back view) Figure 3 - Finished Collar (collar view)

Figure 1- Finished Blouse (front view)

Figure la - Front Vie\;r. Blouse for sizes Petite. Resulnr and Tall l e n d s

Figure lb - Front View, Blouse for sizes X-Tall and XX-Tall lengths

Figure 2- Finished Blouse (back view)