MIL-DTL-87052C CNT - 29MAR24 .pdf

NOTE: This draft, dated 23 March 2024 prepared by PM-IW (C&E), as agent for Navy Clothing and Textile research Facility, has not been approved and is subject to modification. DO NOT

USE PRIOR TO APPROVAL. (Project 8305-2023-XXX)

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

MIL-DTL-87052C

29 March 2024

SUPERSEDING

NCTRF PD 87052B

10 February 2021 and

MIL-C-87052B

14 May 1990

DETAIL SPECIFICATION

CLOTH, TWILL, POLYESTER

This specification is approved for use by all Departments and the Logistics Agency.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for a twill cloth made from 100% texturized polyester.

1.2 Classification. The cloth is available in the following classes.

` Class 1 – White 3006

Class 2 – Khaki 3729

Class 3 – Black 3245

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to procuring activity, see 6.2.

AMSC N/A FSC 8305

INCH POUND

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the solicitation or contract.

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-STD-3064 - Department of Defense Standard Practice Evaluation of Quality of Textile

Materials

(Document is available online at https://assist.dla.mil.)

2.2.2 Other government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other

Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

CODE OF FEDERAL REGULATIONS (CFR)

16 CFR 303 - Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification

Act

(Documents are available online at www.ecfr.gov.)

DEFENSE LOGISTICS AGENCY

DLA Troop Support Clothing & Textiles Additional Quality Assurance Requirements

(Document is available online at https://assist.dla.mil.)

2.3 Non-government publications. The following documents form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILES CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC EP1 - Gray Scale for Color Change

AATCC EP2 - Gray Scale for Staining

AATCC EP8 - AATCC 9 Step Chromatic Transference Scale

AATCC EP9 - Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles

AATCC TM8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method

AATCC TM15 - Colorfastness to Perspiration

AATCC TM16.2 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Light: Carbon Arc

AATCC TM16.3 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Light: Xenon-Arc

AATCC TM20A - Test Method for Fiber Analysis: Quantitative

AATCC TM61 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated http://www.ecfr.gov/

AATCC TM81 - pH of the Water-Extract from Wet Processed Textiles

AATCC TM130 - Soil Release: Oily Stain Release Method

AATCC TM132 - Colorfastness to Drycleaning

AATCC TM135 - Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering

(Documents are available for purchase online at http://www.aatcc.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D1423 - Standard Test Method for Twist in Yarns by Direct Counting

ASTM D1424 - Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by

Falling Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) Apparatus

ASTM D1776/D1776M - Standard Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles

ASTM D3774 - Standard Test Method for Width of Textile Fabric

ASTM D3775 - Standard Test Method for Warp (End) and Filling (Pick)

Count of Woven Fabric

ASTM D3776/D3776M - Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of

Fabric

ASTM D5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)

ASTM D5430 - Standard Test Methods for Visually Inspecting and Grading

Fabrics

(Documents are available for purchase online at http://www.astm.org.)

2.4 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this specification and the references cited herein, the text of this specification shall take precedence. Nothing in this specification, however, shall supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Inspections.

3.1.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2) a sample shall be subject to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.1.2 Conformance. When specified (see Error! Reference source not found.) a sample shall be subjected to a conformance inspection in accordance with Error! Reference source not found..

3.2 Standard sample. The Class 1 finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade, presence of optical brightener, appearance, discoloration, and finish. The Class 2 and 3 dyed and finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade, appearance, colorfastness, and finish.

Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the finished cloth shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced.

http://www.astm.org/

3.3 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.4 Materials.

3.4.1 Fiber Content. The fiber shall be polyester, semi dull (see.4.5).

3.4.2 Yarn. The yarn used in both the warp and filling shall be constructed by plying two ends of

150 denier octalobal cross section, 33 (± 3) filaments per end polyester and shall be texturized by the false twist process. All yarns shall contain the same number of filaments (see 4.5).

3.4.3 Cloth description. The finished cloth shall be a right-hand twill.

3.5 Finish. The cloth shall be scoured and heat set and treated with a soil release finish. The soil release finish shall meet the requirements specified in Table I. For the Class 1 only, cloth shall be fully bleached and supplemented with a blue violet fluorescing optical brightener. Any change in processing for whiteness shall be approved by the contracting agency (see 6.2) prior to use in production, and may require repeat of first article inspection testing.

3.6 Color. The color of the finished cloth shall be White 3006 for Class 1, Khaki 3729 for Class

2, and Black 3245 for Class 3.

3.6.1. Visual shade matching. Each roll in the finished lot shall be examined visually for shade match. When viewed as specified in 4.5.1, the fabric is to match to its respective standard sample.

3.6.2 Discoloration/colorfastness. The finished Class 1 cloth shall be tested for discoloration.

The finished Class 2 cloth shall show “gray scale ratings” for colorfastness to laundering, perspiration, light as well as “chromatic transference scale ratings” for crocking equal to or better than those specified in Table I.

3.7 Physical Requirements. The finished cloth shall conform to the requirements listed in Table

I.

TABLE I. Physical requirements (all classes)

Characteristics Requirement

Class 1 Class 2

Characteristic Requirement

Fiber content, percent 100% polyester

Yarn size 150 denier

Weave 2/1 right hand twill

Yarn ply

Warp and Filling See 3.4.2

Yarns per inch (minimum)

Warp 67

Filling 57

Weight, ounces per square yard 6.2 – 7.2

Breaking strength, pounds (minimum)

Warp 200

Filling 150

Tear strength, pounds (minimum)

Warp 12

Filling 12 pH 5.5 to 8.5

Dimensional change, percent (maximum)

Warp 3.0

Filling 2.0

Soil Release, rating (minimum)

Initial 3

After 1 laundering 3

Color 1/ 2/

Laundering

Color Change 4 4

Staining 4 4

Perspiration

Acid

Color Change 4 4

Staining 4 4

Alkaline

Color Change 4 4

Staining 4 4

Light 4 4

Crocking

Dry 4.0 4.0

Wet 4.0 3.0

1/ Discoloration

2/ Colorfastness

3.7.1 Width. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2) the width of the cloth shall be 60 inches minimum, exclusive of selvages.

3.7.2 Length and put-up. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the cloth shall be furnished in continuous lengths, each not less than 50 yards. The cloth shall be put-up on full width rolls as specified in 3.7.1.

3.8 Labeling.

3.8.1 Fiber identification. Each roll shall be labeled or ticketed for fiber content in accordance with 16 CFR 303 when examined in accordance with Error! Reference source not found..

3.8.2 Face Identification. The face side of the cloth shall be identified by stamping on that side with the word “Face” at each end of the roll.

3.9 Workmanship. The finished cloth shall conform to the quality of the product established in this document. The cloth shall be free from defects which would affect its serviceability, appearance, uniformity, and quality assurance standards defined by the technical data in the procurement documents.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2)

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3)

4.2 First article inspection. When a first article inspection for the cloth is required, the cloth shall be examined for its appearance, shade, discoloration (class 1) or colorfastness (class 2 and class

3), finish and defects. The cloth shall be tested for the characteristics as specified in 4.4 and 4.5.

For the Class 1 cloth, it shall be examined for the presence of optical brighteners.

4.2.1 First article samples. Unless otherwise specified in the contract (see 6.2), the sample unit shall be one continuous five-yard length of full width (see 3.7.1) finished cloth.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance testing shall consist of all examinations and tests specified in 4.4 and 4.5, except the shade evaluation cited under 4.6.1 shall not apply.

4.3.1 Inspection conditions. Unless otherwise specified, excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this specification or applicable procurement documents (see 6.2), all inspections shall be performed in accordance with all the requirements of the referenced documents.

4.4 Visual examinations. Each roll in the sample shall be examined yard-by-yard on the face side for defects in accordance with ASTM D5430 and MIL-STD-3064, Type I for all classes.

Additionally, to determine the presence of unacceptable selvage conditions, the following procedure shall be followed: During the visual examination, the perch shall be stopped a minimum of three (3) times for each roll in the sample, tension removed, and the finished cloth examined for selvage conditions. A waviness in the selvage or significant ripples diagonally across the width of the fabric is an indication of slack or tight selvage.

4.4.1 Roll identification and marking (face or back) examination. During the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the sample shall be examined for shade variation as specified in MIL-

STD-3064.

4.4.2 Examination for length. For Government procurements only, during the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the sample shall be examined for length as specified in MIL-STD-3064.

4.4.3 Shade variation examination. During the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the sample shall be examined for shade as specified in MIL-STD-3064.

4.4.4 Length examination. For Government procurements only, during the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the sample shall be examined for length as specified in MIL-STD-3064.

4.5 Finished cloth tests. The finished cloth shall be tested for the applicable characteristics listed in Table III. All the test samples shall be conditioned as directed in ASTM D1776/D1776M. All test reports should contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final result. The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more sample units fail to meet any verification requirement specified.

Lot size (yards) Sample size (of sample units)

800 or less 2

801 up to and including 22,000 3

22,001 and over 5

TABLE III. Finished cloth tests.

Characteristics Requirement Test Methods

Fiber content Table I AATCC TM20A

Yarn size Table I AATCC TM20A

Weave Table I Visual

Yarn ply Table I Visual

Yarns per inch Table I ASTM D3775

Weight Table I ASTM D3776/D3776M, Option C

Breaking strength Table I ASTM D5034

Tear strength Table I ASTM D1424 pH Table I AATCC TM81

Dimensional change (5 cycles) Table I AATCC TM135 (1) V Ai, 1/

Soil Release Table I

Initial

After 1 laundering

AATCC TM130

AATCC TM130 and

TM135 (1) V Ai

TABLE III. Finished cloth tests. Continued

Characteristics Requirement Test Methods

Visual shade matching 3.6.1 4.6.1

Discoloration and colorfastness to:

3.6.2 and

Table II

Laundering (3 cycles) AATCC TM61, Test 3A, 2/

Wet-dry cleaning AATCC TM132, 3/

Light (170 kJ at 420nm or 40 AFU) AATCC TM16.2 or 16.3, 4/

Perspiration (alkaline and acid) AATCC TM15, 3/

Crocking (dry and wet) AATCC TM8, 5

Width 3.7.1 ASTM D3774 1/ The test specimens shall be subjected to five washing and drying cycles before the shrinkage and/or elongation values are calculated.

2/ The specimen shall be laundered and dried three (3) complete cycles. The specimen shall be dried after each of the three (3) laundering cycles. Rated using the AATCC EP1, Gray Scale for Color Change and AATCC EP 2, Gray Scale for Staining. Only the stain on the polyester fibers of the multifiber transfer swatch shall be evaluated.

3/ Rated using the AATCC EP 1, Gray Scale for Color Change and AATCC EP 2, Gray Scale for Staining. Only the stain on the polyester fibers of the multifiber transfer swatch shall be evaluated.

4/ Rated using the AATCC EP 1, Gray Scale for Color Change 5/ Rated using the AATCC EP 8, AATCC EP 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale. For

Class 1, the black crock cloth shall be used.

4.6 Methods of Inspection.

4.6.1 Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the finished Class 1 cloth shall match the standard sample for shade match, appearance, and the presence of optical brightener under ultraviolet source and the Class 2 and 3 cloth shall be evaluated for color and appearance of the fabric when viewed using the AATCC EP 9, Option C (see 6.4), with a primary light source simulating the spectral quality of average daylight, CIE illuminant D65, with a color temperature of 6500 (±200) Kelvin (K) illumination of 100 (±20) foot candles. The cloth shall also be a good match to the standard sample with a secondary source simulating the spectral quality of incandescent lamplight, CIE Illuminant A, with a color temperature of 2856K (±200).

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order (see 6.2). When packaging of materiel is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel shall contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory

Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing

Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The cloth covered by this specification is intended for use in the manufacture of uniform items.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Procurement documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this specification.

b. Class of cloth required (see 1.2).

c. Shade standard sample and allowable deviations (see 3.2 and 3.6).

d. Minimum acceptable width, exclusive of selvage (see 3.7.1).

e. Length and put-up required (how many yards of cloth per roll) if other than specified (see

3.6.3).

f. When first article inspection is required (see 3.1 and 4.2).

g. Packaging required (see 5.1).

6.3 Informational requests. For access to information such as purchase descriptions, patterns, drawings, standard shade samples of cloth and/or Navy buttons, etc. go to DLA Troop Support’s

Clothing and Textile website:

http://www.dla.mil/TroopSupport/ClothingandTextiles/SpecRequest.aspx.

Complete the request form and then submit form. Requests to use equivalent materials and/or components or to make changes to the pattern should be sent to the contracting officer for approval by the military services.

6.4 Visual shade matching. In 2017, option A of AATCC EP9 was changed to option C. NOTE:

In case of confusion, the viewing geometry should be “The specimen plane and illumination source will be parallel to each other and aligned so that the light flux is incident at the center of the specimen plane, which is set at a 35° (± 5°) angle relative to the horizontal. The observer will view the specimens at a 90° angle, relative to the plane of the specimens.

6.4.1 Use of D75 light source. Alternatively, a primary light source simulating artificial daylight, CIE Illuminant D75, with a color temperature of 7500K (±200) illumination of 100 (±20) foot candles may be used in lieu of D65. If D75 light source is used, that should be noted in the test report.

http://www.dla.mil/TroopSupport/ClothingandTextiles/SpecRequest.aspx

6.6 Subject term (key word) listing.

CNT

Dress clothing

Fabric

Khaki

Washable

White

Custodian: Preparing activity:

Navy - NU Navy - NU

DLA - CT

Review Activities

Navy - MC

NOTE: The activities listed above were interested in this document as of the date of this document. Since organizations and responsibilities can change, you should verify the currency of the information above using the ASSIST Online database at https://assist.dla.mil.

https://assist.dla.mil/ https://assist.dla.mil/