DRAFT MIL-DTL-82161D 09.22.23.pdf

NOTE: This draft, dated 22 September 2023, prepared by United States Marine Corps, has not been approved and is subject to modification. DO NOT USE PRIOR TO APPROVAL. (Project 8405-2023-002)

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to Marine Corps Systems Command, 2200 Lester Street, Quantico, VA 22134 ATTN: SEAL-SE-STDS or emailed to USMC_STDZ@usmc.mil. Since contact information can change, you may want to verify the currency of this address information using the ASSIST

Online database at https://assist.dla.mil.

AMSC N/A FSC 8405

Distribution Statement A. Approved for public release: distribution is unlimited.

MIL-DTL-82161D(MC)

DRAFT

SUPERSEDING

MIL-DTL-82161C(MC)

28 July 1997

DETAIL SPECIFICATION

TROUSERS, MEN’S – EVENING DRESS (OFFICER’S)

This specification is approved for use by the United States Marine Corps and is available for use by all

Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This specification covers men’s evening dress trousers for wear by officers.

1.2 Classification. The trousers are available in one type in the sizes specified (see 6.2).

1.2.1 Schedule of sizes. The trousers are available in the waist size and inseam length combinations of table I, as specified (see 6.2).

TABLE I. Schedule of sizes.

Waist 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44

Inseam 29 29 29 29 29 29 29

31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31

33 33 33 33 33 33 33

35 35 35 35 35 35 35

1.2.2 Individual orders. When trousers are produced to an individual order, this specification will govern, except the dimensional requirements of section 3 may be modified to the extent necessary for good custom tailoring practices.

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

INCH-POUND

mailto:USMC_STDZ@usmc.mil

MIL-DTL-82161D

DRAFT DATED 22 SEP 2023

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-Covered

A-A-52071 - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose

A-A-52094 - Thread, Cotton

A-A-52106 - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend

A-A-55634 - Zippers (Fasteners, Slide Interlocking)

A-A-59826 - Thread, Nylon

A-A-59992 - Cloth, Interfacings: Woven, Cotton and Synthetic

A-A-59994 - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple, (Plastic)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-20271 - Lace, Gold – Ornamental

MIL-DTL-29405 - Cloth, Broadcloth: Wool and Wool/Nylon

MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS

MIL-STD-1488 - Provisions for Evaluating of Quality of Trousers

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of this document are available online at www.astm.org.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Inspections.

3.1.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.1.2 Conformance. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to conformance inspection in accordance with 4.3.

3.2 Standard sample. Standard samples, when provided, are furnished solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variations from the specification may appear in the sample, in which case the specification shall govern.

3.3 Design. The trousers have a two-piece, lined waistband with a hook and eye closure (see 3.5.7), an outlet at the seat seam, two watch pockets, a French-type fly (see 3.3.1) with a slide fastener, hip darts, and finished leg bottoms. The trousers have ornamental gold lace (see 3.5.11) attached at the outseams.

3.3.1 French-type fly. The front closure on the trousers has fabric behind the slide fastener secured inside the waistband with a button (see 3.5.9). The French fly is formed by using a flap-style right fly with an integrated buttonhole.

https://quicksearch.dla.mil/ https://www.astm.org/

3.4 Figures. Figure 1 through figure 9 are provided for information only. When inconsistencies exist between the written specification and the figures, the written specification shall govern.

3.5 Materials and components.

3.5.1 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.5.2 Basic material. The basic material and reinforcement patches for the leg bottoms shall be a wool broadcloth that is dark blue shade 2307 conforming to type I of MIL-DTL-29405.

3.5.3 Lining, interfacing, pocket stays, and pocketing. The material for lining the pockets, waistband, right fly, crotch, left fly interlining, and pocket stay shall be a polyester or polyester/cotton twill or a plain weave cloth conforming to A-A-52106, class 1 when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The color shall be black.

3.5.4 Buckram. The material interfacing the waistband shall be bleached or unbleached cotton buckram conforming to A-A-59992, type III, class 5 or 6 when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.5.5 Waistband stabilizer. The material for the waistband stabilizer shall be a cotton or synthetic and nylon interfacing cloth conforming to A-A-59992, type I, class 1 or 2 or type III, class 5 or 6 when tested as specified in

4.4.1. Alternatively, a commercial-type ban roll waistband may be used. The stabilizer shall not be visible on the outside of the trousers when worn.

3.5.6 Slide fastener. The slide fastener shall be a cam or semi-automatic locking, size 4 to 5, short tab pull conforming to A-A-55634, type I, style 1 or 2 (continuous) or style 4 or 5 (preassembled) when tested as specified in

4.4.1. All metal components of the slide fastener shall be brass, except for the cover and spring on a semi-automatic pin lock, which shall be stainless steel. All component parts shall be from the same supplier. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the color of the slide fastener tape shall approximate the shade of the basic material (see 3.5.2).

If dyed, the slide fastener tape shall show a colorfastness rating of 3.5 or higher to dry cleaning.

3.5.7 Hook and eye. The hook and eye for the waistband closure shall be a nickel-plated hook with a width of

0.3±0.01 inch and an applicable nickel-plated eye with associated backing plates when tested as specified in 4.4.1

(see 6.4). The hook and eye, and any associated attachment pieces, shall not be visible on the outside of the trousers when worn.

3.5.8 Thread. The threads used in the construction of the trousers shall conform to the requirements of the thread documents cited in table II when tested as specified in 4.4.1. When more than one option is presented, either may be used. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the thread shade for all stitching except for the attachment of the ornamentation shall be a good match to the shade of the basic material (see 3.5.2). The thread used for stitching the ornamentation to the trousers shall be yellow (goldenlite), shade AJ, cable no. 66051 for the gold lace.

TABLE II. Thread requirements.

Use (stitch type) Description Document Tex Ply

Seaming (stitch type 301 and 401), raise, edge, and topstitching

Cotton-covered polyester core A-A-50199, type I

36–45 for needle

36–45 or 31–35 for bobbin

Overedging

(stitch type 504)

Cotton-covered polyester core A-A-50199, type I

31–35 for needle and looper

Cotton, soft A-A-52094, type I 30 for needle and looper 3

Bartacks Cotton-covered polyester core A-A-50199, type I

36–45 for needle and bobbin

Buttonholes Cotton, soft A-A-52094, type I 40 for needle and bobbin 2

Buttons Cotton, glazed A-A-52094, type II 105 or 90 4

Buttons (automatic sew and wrap in one operation) Nylon, waxed A-A-59826, type III Special no. 5 Monocord

Buttonhole reinforcement Cotton gimp A-A-50198, type I or type II

3.5.9 Buttons. The buttons for the fly tab and for the inside of the waistband shall be composed of melamine formaldehyde conforming to type I, class 1, style 4, 22-ligne of A-A-59994, black, and in a glossy finish when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.5.10 Labels. The trousers shall have labels in accordance with 3.5.10.1 and 3.5.10.2. The labels shall show fastness to dry cleaning.

3.5.10.1 Identification-size instruction label. The combination identification-size instruction label shall measure not less than 5-1/2 by 2-1/2 inches and shall conform to MIL-DTL-32075, type VI, classes 1, 2, and 3

(combined) when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The format of the label shall be as follows, and the specific content will be as applicable to the trousers being labeled:

TROUSERS, MEN’S, EVENING DRESS

FIBER CONTENT: WOOL BROADCLOTH (EXAMPLE)

SIZE: 36/30 (EXAMPLE)

NSN: 8405-01-XXX-XXXX (EXAMPLE)

NAME OF CONTRACTOR:

CONTRACT NO. SPO-100-00-0-0000 (EXAMPLE)

DRY CLEAN ONLY

DO NOT USE HOT IRON FOR PRESSING

3.5.10.2 Barcode label. Each pair of trousers shall be individually barcoded with a paper label/tag conforming to MIL-DTL-32075, type VIII, class 17 when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The tag shall be attached to the item by a fastener. The barcoding element shall be a 13-digit National Stock Number (NSN) and the appropriate 12-digit

Universal Product Code (UPC) assigned to the NSN by the Government. The initials “UPC” shall appear beneath the code. The barcodes for NSN and UPC shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so they are completely visible on the item when the item is folded or packaged as specified herein. The label’s location shall cause no damage to the item.

3.5.11 Striping. Materials for striping at the side seams of the trousers shall be ornamental gold lace conforming to MIL-DTL-20271, class 3.

3.6 Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished by the Government (see 6.2). Standard patterns show size and directional lines for cutting and are marked or notched for proper placement and assembly of component parts. The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall be used for cutting the contractor’s working patterns. The working patterns shall be identical to the standard patterns, except that additional notches for use during construction are permitted on the working patterns. When using automatic equipment, minor modifications are also permitted on the working patterns provided the modifications do not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in this document or those governed by the standard pattern. The standard patterns provide a

1/2- to 5/8-inch seam allowance for the crotch seam and a 3/8-inch seam allowance for all other seams except the seat seams and the inseam of the back part. For the seat seam, the standard patterns provide 7/8 inch (a total of 1-1/4 inches at the top) to allow for tapering the seat outlet. For the inseam, the standard patterns provide 3/4 inch to the back part (total 1-1/8 inches at the top) to allow for tapering the inseam outlet of the back parts. The legs have an allowance of 3 inches for the turnup of the legs in tailoring.

3.6.1 Pattern parts. Component parts shall be cut from the materials specified and in accordance with the number of parts specified in table III. Requirements for cutting component parts that are not included in table III are included in 3.8.

TABLE III. List of pattern parts.

Material Nomenclature Cut Parts

Basic material

Front 2

Back 2

Left Fly 1

Reinforcement Patch 4

Waistband 2

Watch Pocket Facing 2

Buttonhole Tab 1

Twill

Right Fly Lining 1

Crotch Lining 2

Waistband Lining 2

Watch Pocket 4

Interlining Right Fly Interlining 1

Left Fly Interlining 1

Buckram, cotton Waistband Interlining 2

Marker Bottom Turnup Marker 0

3.7 Construction. Construction of the trousers shall conform to the requirements specified in table IV and manufactured in accordance with 3.8.

TABLE IV. Construction requirements.

Construction Feature Requirement

Stitch and seam types ASTM D6193 and 3.8.

Stitches per inch See 3.8.

Thread type and size Table II.

Thread tension Maintained so that there is no tight, loose, or unbalanced stitching.

Thread shade on outside of trousers

Consistent thread shade on the outside of the trousers. Multiple shades of thread on the outside of the trousers are not allowed.

401 or 101 stitch type The loops of the chain shall finish on the inside of the trousers.

Seams and seam allowances Maintained with seam uniformly sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers, gathers, other distortions, or open seams result.

Beginning and ending of seams Start and finish evenly.

Joined components Lie smooth and flat, unless otherwise specified.

Ends of seams and stitching –

301 stitch type

If not caught in another line of stitching: backstitched not less than

1/4 inch.

If the end of a continuous line of stitching (except label): overlapped not less than 1/2 inch.

If label stitching: overlapped not less than 3 stitches.

Thread breaks (all stitch types) Secured by stitching the back of the break not less than 1/2 inch.

If 401 stitch type, repaired using 301 stitch type.

Buttonholes Eyelet end, taper-bar type, 5/8 inch cut length, clean cut.

Well worked over gimp with the end securely tacked.

The bar at the end has a minimum of four tacks, not including the first cross-overstitch.

3.8 Manufacturing operations requirements. The trousers shall be made in accordance with the operation requirements specified in table V. Following the exact sequence of operations as specified is not required provided the finished trousers meet the finished form, fit, and function requirements as those produced by following the sequence of operations as specified in table V. Any additional under pressing to facilitate manufacturing is permissible. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), seam allowances shall be as cited in 3.6. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), all types and styles shall be in accordance with table V. Some operations are not applicable to specific types or styles that do not have the associated components or features.

TABLE V. Table of operations

No.

Operation Stitch type Seam type

Stitches per inch

1. Cut and shade mark.

a. Cut the component parts (see 3.6.1) as indicated on the patterns provided and in the material specified. Additional cutting requirements are provided below for those components not controlled by a furnished pattern piece.

b. Cut the material in the direction indicated by directional lines on the patterns. Lay fronts and back so that the directional lines are in the warp direction.

c. Cut all component parts for the trousers from the same piece of basic material to ensure a uniform shade throughout the trousers. Pocket bearers and facings may be cut from ends. When cut from ends, the parts shall be a good match to the shade of the trousers.

d. Cut the pockets in accordance with patterns.

e. Cut the ornamentation in the warp direction in the appropriate length to the outseam length of the trousers being produced.

f. Cut the crotch lining parts so that, when folded, the fold will be on the bias, and one of the inseam sides is in the warp direction.

g. Cut the waistband linings and interfacings on the bias and wide enough to comply with operation 9.

h. Cut waistband stabilizer of sufficient length (see operation 9).

i. Mark or ticket the component parts to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Ensure the numbering does not show on the outside of the garment and, wherever possible, is covered by the seam allowance. An ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp, or pencil may be used if the markings do not show in the finished item. Ensure the following methods are not used: corrosive metal fastening devices, sew-on shade tickets, and adhesive-type tickets that discolor or adhere to the material upon removal of tickets.

TABLE V. Table of operations – Continued

No.

Operation Stitch type Seam type

Stitches per inch

2. Replace defective or damaged parts.

a. During cutting, replace all parts found to contain defects such as a hole, cut, tear, smash, mend, burn, scorched area, open place, loose yarn, snagged thread, area of poor dye penetration, dye streak, missing yarn, broken yarn, thin place, shade bar, or woven in waste.

b. Replace any part(s) damaged during the manufacturing process, by needle chews, scissor or knife cuts, tears, holes, mends, burns, or large exposed drill holes.

3. Overedge trousers.

a. Overedge stitch the inseam of the front and the fly edge of the right front. The overedge stitching of the inseam of the front extends from the bottom to the fly notch.

The overedge stitching of the outseam of the front extends from the bottom notch of the side pocket to the bottom of the leg.

502, 503, or

EFd-1 6–10

b. Overedge stitch the inseam and outseam of back part of the trousers. The side pocket stay piece with the bottom edge turned up may be attached to the outseam in the overedge operation.

502, 503, or

EFd-1 6–10

c. Overedge stitch the crotch seam, seat seam, and raw edge at the left end of the waistband.

502, 503, or

EFd-1 6–10

d. The folded crotch lining may be stitched to the foreparts in a separate operation

(see operation 10).

301 SSa-1 6–10

NOTE: When a knife is used on a serging (overedge stitching) machine, the gauge is set so that the raveled ends are trimmed but the edge of the fabric is not cut off.

4. Make the left fly.

Finished appearance: The left fly finishes smooth and flat without twists, puckering, or distortion. The overedge stitching is securely caught in the fabric.

a. Position the slide fastener on the left fly and left fly interfacing with the bottom end of the chain 1/4 to 1/2 inch above the fly notch. The front edge of the chain is 1/2 to 5/8 inch from the front edge of the finished fly at the top, tapering from 1/4 to 3/8 inch at the bottom. Stitch the slide fastener tape to the fly through the interfacing with a double row of stitches of 3/16 to 1/4 inch gauge.

301 or 401 LSbj-2 12–16

b. Overedge stitch the back edge of the left fly and left fly interfacing together. 503 or 504 SSa-1 6–10

TABLE V. Table of operations – Continued

No.

Operation Stitch type Seam type

Stitches per inch

5. Make the right fly.

Finished appearance: The right fly shall finish without bulkiness, twists, puckers, or pleats.

a. The fly consists of one ply of basic material and lining.

b. Alternate: Position the fly tab on the outside of the fly, with raw edges even and the upper finished edge of the tab 1/2 inch below the top edge of the fly.

301 SSa-1 10–16

c. Center the bottom edge of the right fly on the right fly lining in line with the fly lining notch; center the upper front edges of the fly and fly lining even and stitch the right fly and right fly lining together 3/16 to 1/4 inch from the front edge, following the contour of the right fly. The seam extends from the bottom end of the fly to the upper edge of the fly. Any excess lining may be trimmed.

301 or 401 SSe-2(a) 10–16

d. In the finished trousers, the upper end of the lining extends to the top of the waistband and over the waistband lining. The lining extension piece at the lower end extends not less than 1/2 inch beyond the inseam. When the option to use a separate fly tab is exercised, the waistband lining may extend to the right end of the waistband over the right fly lining.

6. Assemble the right and left flies.

Finished appearance: The flies are of even length where they join at the crotch seam. The fastener parts are set so there is not twisting or puckering when the fly is closed.

Position the flies with notches at the lower end, matching the seam slide fastener tape to the back edge of the right fly, stitching 1/4 inch from edge. When 301 stitch is used, the edge of the right fly is serged.

301 or 503 or

SSa-1 12–16

7. Make ornamentation.

Finished appearance: The stripes shall be basted without distortions, and the finished stripe shall be uniformly 1-1/4 inches wide.

TABLE V. Table of operations – Continued

No.

Operation Stitch type Seam type

Stitches per inch

8. Make ID pockets.

Finished appearance: The ID pocket bearers and identification pockets halves shall be properly positioned and securely sewn without pleats, puckers, or other distortions.

a. The ID pocket shall be made of two pieces of pocketing material and a facing consisting of one ply of basic material.

b. Position the bearer over one ply of pocket material with the upper edges even.

Turn under the lower edge of the bearer and seam to the pocket 1/8 inch from the folded edge. A selvage edge need not be turned.

301 LSd-1 12–16

c. Properly position the front and back pieces of the pocket with edges even and join together at the side and bottom edges with a 1/4-inch seam. The stitching shall extend from notch to notch at the upper side edges.

301 SSe-2 (a) 12–16

d. Turn the pocket, forcing out the seamed edges. Topstitch the pocket uniformly 1/4 inch from the seamed edges.

301 SSe-2 (b) 12–16

9. Make and join the waistband lining.

Finished appearance: The waistband lining measures not less than 2 inches wide in the finished trousers. The waistband linings may be pieced provided the seam finishes flat and there is not more than one piecing on each pair of trousers. The waistband stabilizer may be 1 inch shorter than the waistband lining at the seat seam. In the finished trousers, the waistband lining is not exposed beyond the top edge of the waistband.

a. The waistband lining-interfacing assembly consists of any one of the lining materials specified in 3.5.3 and one ply of interfacing cotton buckram cloth specified in 3.5.4.

b. Overlap the lining on the buckram interfacing 1 inch (see operation 1.h) and stitch

1/8 to 3/16 inch from the edge of the lining.

301, 401, or

LSa-1 6-10

c. Position the stabilizer on the waistband interfacing assembly with one edge of the stabilizer and the free edge of the interfacing even. Stitch the stabilizer to the waistband interfacing assembly 1/2 inch from the edge.

301 --- 6-10

NOTE: A commercial waistband lining/interfacing conforming to specified requirements may be used.

NOTE: The waistband interfacing may be fused if all requirements of the waistband are maintained.

TABLE V. Table of operations – Continued

No.

Operation Stitch type Seam type

Stitches per inch

10. Seam the crotch lining to the fronts (see operation 3.d).

Fold the crotch lining lengthwise to form a double thickness and attach to fronts. 301 or SSa-1 6–10

503 or 504 EFd-1

11. Seam darts in back.

Finished appearance: The darts are properly positioned and finished without pleats, puckers, gathers, or other distortions. In the finished trousers, the darts shall be well tapered to a flat point and end where indicated on the patterns.

a. Fold the backs, matching the cut edge of the waist darts. Stitch lengthwise along the entire length of the darts, starting 3/8 inch from the cut edges at the top end and tapering to a point at the lower end as indicated by the marks on the pattern.

301 SSa-1 12–16

b. Spread open and press the darts smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine.

12. Attach the label.

Finished appearance: The stitching shall be uniform and secure and shall be legible after attachment.

Catch the top edge of the combination identification, instruction, and size label on the waistband so that on the finished trousers it will face the wearer. No part of the label printing is covered by the waistband interfacing curtain. Stitch the label on all four sides 1/16 to 3/32 inch from the edges. Stitching is not through the printing.

301 LSbj-2 10–16

13. Join the fly assembly to the fronts.

Finished appearance: The seam joining the fly assembly to the fronts shall be without pleats, puckers, twists, or other distortions.

a. Position the left fly assembly on the outside of the left front with the edges even and notches matching. Join the left fly to the front with a 1/4-inch seam.

301 SSe-2(a) 12–16

b. Raise stitch the joining seam on the left fly assembly 1/16 inch from the seam, catching all plies of the seam.

301 LSq-2(b) 12–16

c. Position the right fly assembly on the right front with edges even and notches matching. Join the right fly to the front with a 1/4-inch seam.

301 LSq-2(b) 12–16

TABLE V. Table of operations – Continued

No.

Operation Stitch type Seam type

Stitches per inch

14. Join the outseams.

Finished appearance: Outseams are carefully joined with notches matching and are without twists, puckers, or pleats. The seams start and finish evenly and lie smooth and flat.

a. Join the outseam with a 3/8-inch seam, matching the notches as indicated by marks on the patterns, joining the back pocket bearer to the front at the side seam and catching the side pocket stay with its bottom end turned (if not previously caught in the overedge stitching of operation 3.b.)

301 or 401 SSa-1 12–16

b. Spread open the outseams from the top edge of the trousers to the bottom and press smooth and flat with a heated pressing machine with the pocket stay folded and pressed flat over the open seam.

15. Attach ornamentation.

Finished appearance: Ornamentation shall be set on the trousers from the top edge of the fronts to the bottom edge of the legs with the top end to finish in the waistband seam. The stripes shall be securely and uniformly stitched, properly positioned, and finish without distortion.

Position the stripes on the fronts, with the back edge of the stripes aligned with the outseam. Seam to the trousers from the top of the fronts to the finished hem, gradually working stripes toward the back to center over the outseams.

301 SSas-4 (b) 12–16

16. Attach the waistband.

Finished appearance: The finished waistband measures 1-3/4±1/8 inches wide.

a. The waistband shall be made of one ply of basic material. Stitch the right and left waistbands to trousers with a 3/8-inch seam.

301 SSa-1 12–16

c. Spread open the waistband seam and press smooth and flat with a heated iron or pressing machine.

NOTE: The waistband lining may be attached to ID pockets (see operation 9) prior to setting the trousers.

TABLE V. Table of operations – Continued

No.

Operation Stitch type Seam type

Stitches per inch

17. Join the lining to the waistband.

a. Turn back the right fly lining and stitch the top end to the front and top edges of the waistband.

SSe-2(a) each edge 12–16

b. Turn back the end of the left waistband in line with the joining seam of the left fly front and stitch across the top edge of the waistband for the width of the fly.

301 SSa-1 12–16

c. Insert the top edge of the waistband between the lining and buckram waistband interfacing with the edge of the lining turned in, and join all plies with a row of imitation hand felled stitches.

d. The left end of the waistband lining shall finish at the front edge of the trousers, with the end of the waistband lining trimmed slightly back from the front edge at an angle. The right end of the waistband lining shall extend approximately 1 inch under the fly lining in the finished trousers.

18. Press the waistband.

Turn out the front end of the left and right waistband, forcing out the corners. Turn the waistband lining to the inside and press along the top edge of the waistband. The trousers’ waistband lining is not exposed beyond the top edge of the waistband.

19. Attach hooks and eyes.

Finished appearance: In the finished trousers, the closure does not bulge, pucker, or twist when the hook and eye is engaged.

a. Position the hook at the center (1/4 inch off center tolerance) of the left waistband with the rolled edge of the hook aligned with the slide fastener scoops. Attach the hook to the left waistband through a reinforcement made of self-fabric or pocketing fabric.

b. Position the eye at the center of the right waistband aligned with the slide fastener scoops and corresponding with the hook and left waistband. Attach the eye to the right waistband through a reinforcement made of self-fabric or pocketing fabric.

20. Stitch the pocket to the lower edge of the waistband.

Stitch the top end of all pockets to the waistband seam allowance with pockets properly positioned and smoothed out.

301 or 101 SSa-1 12–16

TABLE V. Table of operations – Continued

No.

Operation Stitch type Seam type

Stitches per inch

21. Finish the right and left fly.

Finished appearance: The top corners of the right and left flies are completely forced out and not bulky. The stitching of the left fly is uniformly stitched from the edge of the fly. The seam joining the left fly to the front is not exposed on the outside. The flies are smooth and flat without twists, puckers, or excessive fullness.

a. Stitch down the left fly with the waistband lining smoothly inserted between the fly and trouser. The stitching is 1-3/8±1/8 inches from the front edge of the fly, extending from the top of the waistband and curving to fly notch.

301 SSa-1 12–16

b. Continue the stitching of the right fly lining to the top of the waistband. 301 or 401 SSe-2(a) 12–16

c. Turn the right fly lining to the inside and stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the front edge. Continue the stitching along the front end of the waistband, across the top of the waistband, and down to meet the back of the right fly.

SSc-2(b) (shows finished seam) 12–16

d. Turn under the raw edge of the fly lining and raise stitch the fly joining seam, catching the turned-under portion of the lining and slide fastener tape in the stitching.

301 LSq-2(b) 12–16

e. Alternate extended waistband lining: Turn the right fly lining to the inside and stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the front edge. Continue to stitch down the front end of the waistband, across the top of the waistband, and down to meet the back of the right fly. Turn in the raw edge of the fly lining and raise stitch the fly joining seam, catching the fly lining in the stitching.

22. Join the inseam.

Finished appearance: Inseams are carefully joined with notches matching and are without twists or puckers. The seams start and finish evenly and are smooth and flat.

a. Join the inseam from the bottom edge of the legs to the crotch with the notches matching as indicated by marks on the pattern, forming an outlet, tapering the seam allowance of the back from 7/8 inch at the crotch to 3/8 inch at the knee notch.

301 or 401

SSbd-1 (above knee notch) and

SSa-1 (below knee notch)

12–16

b. Spread open the inseam and press smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing matching.

TABLE V. Table of operations – Continued

No.

Operation Stitch type Seam type

Stitches per inch

23. Join the crotch and seat seam.

Finished appearance: The crotch and seat seams are joined with a stitch tension of sufficient elasticity to meet the strain of sitting and stooping.

The waist is measured before joining the crotch and seat seam to ensure correct waist size. In the finished trousers, the inseams meet, and the right and left waistband joining seams are aligned. The base of the right fly covers the left fly on the outside. The inseam at the crotch shall not stagger more than 3/8 inch.

a. Join the crotch and seat seams from the base of the fly through the curve in the crotch with a 1/4-inch seam, then taper to the end of the waistband lining with a double needle seat seamer with the rows of stitching 1/64 to 1/32 inch apart. The seams from the waistband joining seam to the end of the waistband lining shall be perpendicular to the waistband joining seam.

401 SSe-2 or SSc-2 8–10 each needle

b. Spread open the crotch and seat seams and press smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or machine.

24. Finish the waistband.

Topstitch the spread open waistband seam 1/16 inch below the joining seam, catching the waistband lining (with the ends of the center back folded in) and the top pockets in the stitching. The stitching shall not extend across the fly.

LSbd-2 (shows finished seam) 12–16

25. Assemble the fasteners (if preassembled slide fasteners are not used).

Attach the slider and, with the ends of the slide fastener chain even, securely staple the bottom end of the chain together.

26. Press seams.

Finished appearance: The seams shall finish smooth and flat without pleats, puckers, or twists.

Spread the seat and crotch seams open from the top of the waistband to the fly notch and press smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine.

27. Stitch the right fly extension.

Finished appearance: In the finished trousers, the right fly lining extension shall finish not less than 1/2 inch beyond the juncture point of the right and left inseam.

Turn the raw edges and end of the right fly lining extension and machine stitch or hand fell to each side of the open crotch seat seam, catching the turned under end in the stitching.

301 or hand SSac-3(b), SSac-

3I, and SSac-3(d)

12–16

6–8

TABLE V. Table of operations – Continued

No.

Operation Stitch type Seam type

Stitches per inch

28. Bartack the trousers.

Finished appearance: The trousers are not distorted by the bartacks. The pockets lie smooth and flat. The bartacks are properly positioned and correctly placed to reinforce the points of strain as specified. Bartacks shall be 3/8 to 1/2 inch long and stitched through all plies of the material at the point of the bartacking.

a. Bartack the bottom end of the fly horizontally through all plies above the juncture of the crotch seam and fly. The bartack shall not extend beyond the crotch seam.

Bartack ---

21–28 per bartack

b. Bartack the inside front edge of the right fly to the back of the left fly with a vertical bartack with the lower end of the bartack approximately 1/2 inch above the horizontal bartack at the base of the fly.

Bartack --- 21–28 per bartack

29. Mark and sew buttons.

Finished appearance: The buttons are securely sewn and properly aligned with the buttonholes. Hand-sewn buttons are shank wrapped three times, and the thread is securely tacked with not less than two stitches. Machine sewn buttons, which are automatically shanked, have a minimum of ten wraps with three locking stitches. Shank wrapping is optional on machine-sewn buttons.

Sew six 24-ligne buttons on the inside of the waistband lining only. One button shall be positioned over each of the side seams, one on each front, 4-1/2 to 4-3/4 inches from the side seam, and one on each back, 2-1/4 to 2-3/8 inches from the back seam. The center of the buttons shall be positioned 1/2 to 5/8 inch below the top of the waistband.

301, 101, or hand

20–22 per button

14–16 per button

4 per button

(double thread)

30. Press the trousers.

Finished appearance: All pressing is done with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine to obtain the desired appearance in accordance with good manufacturing practice.

a. Press the top, fly, and pockets smooth and flat.

b. Press smooth and crease the legs in the center with the seams matching at the bottom and in the crotch, or the inseam in the crotch may be slightly back of the outseam.

c. Close flies, waistband, and pockets.

31. Clean trousers.

Trim all ends of stitching and remove all loose threads, spots, stains, and shade tickets or markings without injury to the material.

NOTE: The barcode label/tag shall be located so that it is completely visible on the item.

3.9 Finished dimensions. The finished trousers shall conform to the measurements in table VI as defined in table VII. Hemmed inseam measurements shall be as marked on the label ±1/2 inch.

TABLE VI. Finished dimensions.

Size Waist (A) Hip (B) Knee (C) Bottom (D)

26 26 35 18-1/2 17-3/4

28 28 37 19 18

30 30 39 19-1/2 18-1/4

32 32 41 20 18-1/2

34 34 43 20-1/2 18-3/4

36 36 45 21 19

38 38 47 21-1/2 19-1/4

40 40 49 22 19-1/2

42 42 51 22-1/2 19-3/4

44 44 53 23 20

Tolerance ±1/4 +3/4, -1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2

TABLE VII. Methods of measure.

Letter Measurement Method Guidance

A Waist Twice the measurement taken across the top edge of the waistband from folded edge to folded edge.

B Hip Measurement taken across the widest point of the trousers when laid flat on a table.

C Knee Measurements taken across the trouser leg at the following measurements below the crotch seam:

12-1/2 inches for inseam length 29

13-1/2 inches for inseam length 31

14-1/2 inches for inseam length 33

15-1/2 inches for inseam length 35

TABLE VII. Methods of measure – Continued

Letter Measurement Method Guidance

D Bottom Measurements taken along (unhemmed) the bottom edge of the leg from folded edge to folded edge

E Inseam Taken along the inseam from the crotch seam to the unhemmed bottom edge

3.10 Workmanship. Each finished pair of trousers shall conform to the quality of product established by this document. Defects shall not exceed the established maximum Acceptance Quality Limits (AQL), as specified

(see 6.2), and shall not adversely affect the serviceability, appearance, and uniformity of the product.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article inspection. First article inspection shall be performed on the trousers when a first article sample is required (see 3.1.1). This inspection shall include the examinations and tests of 4.4.1 through 4.4.4 for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship, dimensional requirements, and testing as specified in this document.

4.2.1 First article samples and acceptance criteria. The first article sample size shall be as specified (see 6.2).

The sample unit shall be one pair of finished trousers. The lot size shall be expressed in units of trousers. The presence of defects exceeding specified AQLs (see 3.10 and 6.2) or failure of any testing (see 6.2) shall be cause for rejection of the first article.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the contract (see 6.2), conformance inspection, in accordance with 3.1.2, shall consist of the examinations and tests of 4.4.1 through 4.4.4.

4.3.1 Component and material sampling and acceptance criteria. Unless otherwise specified in referenced documents or procurement documents (see 6.2), sampling shall be in accordance with table VIII. The component lot shall be unacceptable if one or more sample units fail to meet any examination or test requirements specified in this document (see 6.2).

TABLE VIII. Material sampling.

Lot size Sample size (sample units)

800 or fewer 2

801 through 22,000 3

22,001 and over 5

4.3.2 End item sampling and acceptance criteria. Unless otherwise specified in the contract (see 6.2), sampling for inspection shall be performed for dress/semi-dress (D/S) trousers in accordance with the provisions of

MIL-STD-1488. The sample shall be one pair of finished trousers. The lot size shall be expressed in units of trousers. The presence of excessive defects or failure of any testing as specified (see 6.2) shall be cause for rejection of the lot.

4.4 Inspection methods.

4.4.1 Component and material examinations and tests. In accordance with 4.1, components and materials shall be examined and tested as specified in table IX unless otherwise excluded, amended, or modified in this document or as specified (see 6.2).

TABLE IX. Component and material verification.

Material/Component Requirement Verification

Basic material 3.5.2 MIL-DTL-29405

Lining, interfacing, pocket stays, and pocketing

3.5.3 A-A-52106

Buckram 3.5.4 A-A-59992

Waistband stabilizer 3.5.5 A-A-59992

Slide fastener 3.5.6 A-A-55634

Hook and eye 3.5.7 Visual (see 6.6)

Threads 3.5.8

Per specific thread specification listed in table II

Thread, shade 3.5.8 Visual 1/

Buttons 3.5.9 A-A-59994

Button, shade 3.5.9 Visual 1/

Label 3.5.10.1 and 3.5.10.2 MIL-DTL-32075

Striping 3.5.11 Per specific striping specification listed in 3.5.11

FOOTNOTE:

1/ Results recorded as pass or fail.

4.4.2 In-process examination. Visual and dimensional examinations shall be made at any point during the manufacturing process to determine whether construction details, which cannot be examined in the finished product, are in accordance with the requirements specified in section 3. Materials and components that contain defects and damages, as defined in the visual examination of 4.4.3, shall be removed from production. Any in-process nonconformance remaining in the finished trousers shall be classified as a defect in accordance with the visual examination of 4.4.3.

4.4.3 Visual examination. Sampling and visual examination of the end item for defects in color, design, materials, construction, workmanship, and marking shall be performed in accordance with the provisions for D/S trousers of MIL-STD-1488.

4.4.3.1 Additional defects. The end items shall be examined for the following labeling defects, which are not listed in MIL-STD-1488. These defects shall be scored as minor.

a. Barcode omitted or not readable by scanner.

b. Human readable interpretation omitted or illegible.

4.4.4 Dimensional examination. The trousers shall be examined for conformance to the dimensions specified in table VI, when measured in accordance with table VII, in accordance with the provisions of MIL-STD-1488.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of materiel is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or

Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The trousers are intended to be worn by male personnel of the United States Marine Corps.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number, and date of this specification.

b. NSNs.

c. Sizes and lengths required (see 1.2).

d. When first article inspection is required (see 3.1.1).

e. When conformance inspection is required (see 3.1.2 and 4.3).

f. The color of the slide fastener tape, if other than specified (see 3.5.6).

g. Thread shade, if other than specified (see 3.5.8).

h. Button color, if other than specified (see 3.5.9).

i. Applicable Government pattern references, with pattern date (see 3.6).

j. Seam allowances, if other than as specified in 3.6 (see 3.8).

k. The operations, if other than as specified in table V (see 3.8).

l. AQLs (see 3.10).

m. First article sampling and acceptance criteria (see 4.2.1).

n. Component and material sampling and acceptance criteria (see 4.3.1).

o. End item sampling and acceptance criteria (see 4.3.2).

p. Component and material examination and tests (see 4.4.1).

q. Packaging requirements (see 5.1).

6.3 Information requests. Requests for information such as purchase descriptions, patterns, drawings, and standard shade samples of cloth can be made by completing and submitting the Defense Logistics Agency Troop

Support’s Clothing and Textile Specification/Drawing/Pattern Request Form online at https://www.dla.mil/TroopSupport/ClothingandTextiles/SpecRequest.aspx. Requests to use equivalent materials or components or to make changes to the pattern should be sent to the contracting officer for approval by the military services.

https://www.dla.mil/TroopSupport/ClothingandTextiles/SpecRequest.aspx

6.4 Hook and eye suggested sources of supply. A known source for hook and eye fasteners and associated attaching pieces that meet the requirements of this specification is listed below:

Snapco Manufacturing Corporation

140 Central Avenue

Hillside, NJ 07205

Phone: 973-282-0500

Fax: 973-282-7627 http://snapcofasteners.com/hookandeye.html

Reference: No. 8 hook and no. 85 eye with associated reinforcement pieces

6.5 Hem allowance. An allowance of 3 inches for hemming is included in the inseam length (see 3.9 and table VI).

6.6 Certificates of compliance. Certificates of compliance may be accepted in lieu of testing at the discretion of the contracting agency. Manufacturers are advised to confirm acceptability of certificates of compliance prior to submitting them to address any requirement.

6.7 Changes from previous issue. Marginal notations are not used in this revision to identify changes with respect to the previous issue due to the extent of the changes.

6.8 Subject term (key word) listing.

Marine Corps

Uniform http://snapcofasteners.com/hookandeye.html

FIGURE 1. Male officer’s evening dress trousers –front.

FIGURE 2. Male officer’s evening dress trousers –back.

FIGURE 3. Male officer’s evening dress trousers –side.

FIGURE 4. Male officer’s evening dress trousers –watch pocket.

FIGURE 5. Male officer’s evening dress trousers –gold braid.

FIGURE 6. Male officer’s evening dress trousers –inside front.

FIGURE 7. Male officer’s evening dress trousers – fly and inside front features.

FIGURE 8. Male officer’s evening dress trousers – inside back.

FIGURE 9. Male officer’s evening dress trousers – reinforcement patch.

CONCLUDING MATERIAL

Custodian(s): Preparing activity:

Navy – MC Navy – MC

DLA – CT (Project 8405-2023-002)

Review activity:

Navy – NU

NOTE: The activities listed above were interested in this document as of the date of this document. Since organizations and responsibilities can change, you should verify the currency of the information above using the

ASSIST Online database at https://assist.dla.mil.

https://assist.dla.mil/