DRAFT MIL-DTL-82161D 2024.06.13.pdf

NOTE: This draft, dated 13 June 2024, prepared by United States Marine Corps, has not been approved and is subject to modification. DO NOT USE PRIOR TO APPROVAL. (Project 8405-2023-002)

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to Marine Corps Systems Command, 2200 Lester Street, Quantico, VA 22134 ATTN: SEAL-SE-STDS or emailed to USMC_STDZ@usmc.mil. Since contact information can change, you may want to verify the currency of this address information using the ASSIST

Online database at https://assist.dla.mil.

AMSC N/A FSC 8405

Distribution Statement A. Approved for public release: distribution is unlimited.

MIL-DTL-82161D(MC)

DRAFT

SUPERSEDING

MIL-DTL-82161C(MC)

28 July 1997

DETAIL SPECIFICATION

TROUSERS, MEN’S – EVENING DRESS (OFFICER’S)

This specification is approved for use by the United States Marine Corps and is available for use by all

Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for men’s evening dress trousers for wear by officers.

1.2 Classification. The trousers are available in one type in the sizes specified (see 6.2).

1.2.1 Schedule of sizes. The trousers are available in the waist size and inseam length combinations of table I, as specified (see 6.2).

TABLE I. Schedule of sizes.

Waist 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44

Inseam 29 29 29 29 29 29 29

31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31

33 33 33 33 33 33 33

35 35 35 35 35 35 35

1.2.2 Individual orders. When trousers are produced to an individual order, this specification will govern, except the dimensional requirements of section 3 may be modified to the extent necessary for good custom tailoring practices.

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

INCH-POUND

mailto:USMC_STDZ@usmc.mil

DRAFT DATED 13 JUNE 2024

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-Covered

A-A-52071 - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose

A-A-52094 - Thread, Cotton

A-A-52106 - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend

A-A-55634 - Zippers (Fasteners, Slide Interlocking)

A-A-59826 - Thread, Nylon

A-A-59992 - Cloth, Interfacings: Woven, Cotton and Synthetic

A-A-59994 - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple, (Plastic)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-20271 - Lace, Gold – Ornamental

MIL-DTL-29405 - Cloth, Broadcloth: Wool and Wool/Nylon

MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS

MIL-STD-1488 - Provisions for Evaluating of Quality of Trousers

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of this document are available online at www.astm.org.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Inspections.

3.1.1 First article inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.1.2 Conformance inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to conformance inspection in accordance with 4.3.

3.2 Standard sample. Standard samples, when provided, are furnished solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variations from the specification may appear in the sample, in which case the specification shall govern.

https://quicksearch.dla.mil/ https://www.astm.org/

3.3 Design. The trousers have a two-piece, lined waistband with a hook and eye closure (see 3.5.7), an outlet at the seat seam, two watch pockets, a French-type fly (see 3.3.1) with a slide fastener, hip darts, and finished leg bottoms. The trousers have ornamental gold lace (see 3.5.11) attached at the outseams.

3.3.1 French-type fly. The front closure on the trousers has fabric behind the slide fastener secured inside the waistband with a button (see 3.5.9). The French fly is formed by using a flap-style right fly with an integrated buttonhole.

3.4 Figures. Figure 1 through figure 9 are provided for information only. When inconsistencies exist between the written specification and the figures, the written specification shall govern.

3.5 Materials and components.

3.5.1 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.5.2 Basic material. The basic material and reinforcement patches for the leg bottoms shall be a wool broadcloth that is dark blue shade 2307 conforming to type I of MIL-DTL-29405.

3.5.3 Lining, interfacing, pocket stays, and pocketing. The material for lining the pockets, waistband, right fly, crotch, left fly interlining, and pocket stay shall be a polyester or polyester/cotton twill or a plain weave cloth conforming to A-A-52106, class 1 when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The color shall be black.

3.5.4 Buckram. The material interfacing the waistband shall be bleached or unbleached cotton buckram conforming to A-A-59992, type III, class 5 or 6 when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.5.5 Waistband stabilizer. The material for the waistband stabilizer shall be a cotton or synthetic and nylon interfacing cloth conforming to A-A-59992, type I, class 1 or 2 or type III, class 5 or 6 when tested as specified in

4.4.1. Alternatively, a commercial-type ban roll waistband may be used. The stabilizer shall not be visible on the outside of the trousers when worn.

3.5.6 Slide fastener. The slide fastener shall be a cam or semi-automatic locking, size 4 to 5, short tab pull conforming to A-A-55634, type I, style 1 or 2 (continuous) or style 4 or 5 (preassembled) when tested as specified in

4.4.1. All metal components of the slide fastener shall be brass, except for the cover and spring on a semi-automatic pin lock, which shall be stainless steel. All component parts shall be from the same supplier. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the color of the slide fastener tape shall approximate the shade of the basic material (see 3.5.2).

If dyed, the slide fastener tape shall show a colorfastness rating of 3.5 or higher to dry cleaning.

3.5.7 Hook and eye. The hook and eye for the waistband closure shall be a nickel-plated hook with a width of

0.3±0.01 inch and an applicable nickel-plated eye with associated backing plates when tested as specified in 4.4.1

(see 6.4). The hook and eye, and any associated attachment pieces, shall not be visible on the outside of the trousers when worn.

3.5.8 Thread. The threads used in the construction of the trousers shall conform to the requirements of the thread documents cited in table II when tested as specified in 4.4.1. When more than one option is presented, either may be used. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the thread shade for all stitching except for the attachment of the ornamentation shall be a good match to the shade of the basic material (see 3.5.2). The thread used for stitching the ornamentation to the trousers shall be yellow (goldenlite), shade AJ, cable no. 66051 for the gold lace.

TABLE II. Thread requirements.

Use (stitch type) Description Document Tex Ply

Seaming (stitch type 301 and 401), raise, edge, and topstitching

Cotton-covered polyester core A-A-50199, type I

36–45 for needle

36–45 or 31–35 for bobbin

Overedging

(stitch type 504)

Cotton-covered polyester core A-A-50199, type I

31–35 for needle and looper

Cotton, soft A-A-52094, type I 30 for needle and looper 3

Bartacks Cotton-covered polyester core A-A-50199, type I

36–45 for needle and bobbin

Buttonholes Cotton, soft A-A-52094, type I 40 for needle and bobbin 2

Buttons Cotton, glazed A-A-52094, type II 105 or 90 4

Buttons (automatic sew and wrap in one operation) Nylon, waxed A-A-59826, type III Special no. 5 Monocord

Buttonhole reinforcement Cotton gimp A-A-50198, type I or type II

3.5.9 Buttons. The buttons for the fly tab and for the inside of the waistband shall be composed of melamine formaldehyde conforming to type I, class 1, style 4, 22-ligne of A-A-59994, black, and in a glossy finish when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.5.10 Labels. The trousers shall have labels in accordance with 3.5.10.1 and 3.5.10.2. The labels shall show fastness to dry cleaning.

3.5.10.1 Identification-size instruction label. The combination identification-size instruction label shall measure not less than 5-1/2 by 2-1/2 inches and shall conform to MIL-DTL-32075, type VI, classes 1, 2, and 3

(combined) when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The format of the label shall be as follows, and the specific content will be as applicable to the trousers being labeled:

TROUSERS, MEN’S, EVENING DRESS

FIBER CONTENT: WOOL BROADCLOTH (EXAMPLE)

SIZE: 36/30 (EXAMPLE)

NSN: 8405-01-XXX-XXXX (EXAMPLE)

NAME OF CONTRACTOR:

CONTRACT NO. SPO-100-00-0-0000 (EXAMPLE)

DRY CLEAN ONLY

DO NOT USE HOT IRON FOR PRESSING

3.5.10.2 Barcode label. Each pair of trousers shall be individually barcoded with a paper label/tag conforming to MIL-DTL-32075, type VIII, class 17 when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The tag shall be attached to the item by a fastener. The barcoding element shall be a 13-digit National Stock Number (NSN) and the appropriate 12-digit

Universal Product Code (UPC) assigned to the NSN by the Government. The initials “UPC” shall appear beneath the code. The barcodes for NSN and UPC shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so they are completely visible on the item when the item is folded or packaged as specified herein. The label’s location shall cause no damage to the item.

3.5.11 Striping. Materials for striping at the side seams of the trousers shall be ornamental gold lace conforming to MIL-DTL-20271, class 3.

3.6 Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished by the Government (see 6.2). Standard patterns show size and directional lines for cutting and are marked or notched for proper placement and assembly of component parts. The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall be used for cutting the contractor’s working patterns. The working patterns shall be identical to the standard patterns, except that additional notches for use during construction are permitted on the working patterns. When using automatic equipment, minor modifications are also permitted on the working patterns provided the modifications do not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in this document or those governed by the standard pattern. The standard patterns provide a

1/2- to 5/8-inch seam allowance for the crotch seam and a 3/8-inch seam allowance for all other seams except the seat seams and the inseam of the back part. For the seat seam, the standard patterns provide 7/8 inch (a total of 1-

1/4 inches at the top) to allow for tapering the seat outlet. For the inseam, the standard patterns provide 3/4 inch to the back part (total 1-1/8 inches at the top) to allow for tapering the inseam outlet of the back parts. The legs have an allowance of 3 inches for the turnup of the legs in tailoring.

3.6.1 Pattern parts. Component parts shall be cut from the materials specified and in accordance with the number of parts specified in table III. Requirements for cutting component parts that are not included in table III are included in 3.9.

TABLE III. List of pattern parts.

Material Nomenclature Cut Parts

Basic material

Front 2

Back 2

Right Fly 1

Left Fly 1

Waistband 2

Watch Pocket Facing 2

Buttonhole Tab 1

Twill

Right Fly Lining 1

Crotch Lining 2

Waistband Lining 2

Watch Pocket 4

Interlining Right Fly Interlining 1

Left Fly Interlining 1

Buckram, cotton Waistband Interlining 2

Marker Bottom Turnup Marker 0

3.6.2 Cutting. The component parts shall be cut according to directional lines as indicated on the patterns provided and in the material specified. Front and back pieces shall be laid flat so that the directional lines are in the warp direction. The additional cutting requirements below shall be followed for those components not controlled by a furnished pattern piece. For all parts visible on the outside during wear, parts should be cut from the same fabric lot to ensure that there are no differences in shade between parts.

a. Pocket facings may be cut from ends. When cut from ends, the parts shall be a good match to the shade of the trousers.

b. Cut the ornamentation in the warp direction in the appropriate length to the outseam length of the trousers being produced.

c. Cut the crotch lining parts so that, when folded, the fold will be on the bias and one of the inseam sides is in the warp direction.

d. Cut the waistband linings and interfacings on the bias.

NOTE: A commercial waistband lining/interfacing conforming to specified requirements may be used. The waistband interfacing may be fused if all requirements of the waistband are maintained.

e. Mark or ticket the component parts to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Ensure the numbering does not show on the outside of the garment and, wherever possible, is covered by the seam allowance.

An ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp, or pencil may be used if the markings do not show in the finished item. Ensure the following methods are not used: corrosive metal fastening devices, sew-on shade tickets, and adhesive-type tickets that discolor or adhere to the material upon removal of tickets.

3.7 Finished dimensions. The finished trousers shall conform to the measurements in table IV as defined in table V. As the trousers are delivered unhemmed, inseam measurements (E) shall be the length as marked on the label plus 3 inches (minimum).

TABLE IV. Finished dimensions.

Size Waist (A) Seat (B) Knee (C) Bottom (D)

26 26 35 18-1/2 17-3/4

28 28 37 19 18

30 30 39 19-1/2 18-1/4

32 32 41 20 18-1/2

34 34 43 20-1/2 18-3/4

36 36 45 21 19

38 38 47 21-1/2 19-1/4

40 40 49 22 19-1/2

42 42 51 22-1/2 19-3/4

44 44 53 23 20

Tolerance ±1/4 +3/4, -1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2

TABLE V. Methods of measure.

Letter Measurement Method Guidance

A Waist Twice the measurement taken across the top edge of the waistband from folded edge to folded edge.

B Seat Measurement taken across the widest point of the trousers when laid flat on a table.

C Knee Measurements taken across the trouser leg at the following measurements below the crotch seam:

12-1/2 inches for inseam length 29

13-1/2 inches for inseam length 31

14-1/2 inches for inseam length 33

15-1/2 inches for inseam length 35

D Bottom Measurements taken along (unhemmed) the bottom edge of the leg from folded edge to folded edge

E Inseam Taken along the inseam from the crotch seam to the unhemmed bottom edge

3.8 Construction. Construction of the trousers shall conform to the requirements specified in table VI and manufactured in accordance with 3.9. A suggested table of operations is provided in table IX.

TABLE VI. Construction requirements.

Construction Feature Requirement

Stitch and seam types ASTM D6193 (see table IX for additional guidance).

Stitches

Overedge and hand-felling: 6–10 stitches per inch.

Joining: 12–16 stitches per inch.

Buttonholes: 48 stitches minimum per buttonhole.

Bartacks: 28–30 stitches per bartack.

Buttons: 14–16 stitches per button (double thread).

Thread type and size Table II.

Thread tension Maintained so that there is no tight, loose, or unbalanced stitching.

Thread shade on outside of trousers

Consistent thread shade on the outside of the trousers. Multiple shades of thread on the outside of the trousers are not allowed.

401 or 101 stitch type The loops of the chain shall finish on the inside of the trousers.

Seams and seam allowances Maintained with seam uniformly sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers, gathers, other distortions, or open seams result.

Beginning and ending of seams Start and finish evenly.

Joined components Lie smooth and flat, unless otherwise specified.

Ends of seams and stitching –

301 stitch type

If not caught in another line of stitching: backstitched not less than

1/4 inch.

If the end of a continuous line of stitching (except label): overlapped not less than 1/2 inch.

If label stitching: overlapped not less than 3 stitches.

Thread breaks (all stitch types) Secured by stitching the back of the break not less than 1/2 inch.

If 401 stitch type, repaired using 301 stitch type.

Buttonholes Eyelet end, taper-bar type, 5/8 inch cut length, clean cut.

Well worked over gimp with the end securely tacked.

The bar at the end has a minimum of four tacks, not including the first cross-overstitch.

3.9 Manufacturing operations requirements. Although a suggested table of operations is provided in table IX, an exact sequence of operations is not specified in order to allow for manufacturers to utilize their own best practices and quality plans. The finished trousers shall be required to meet all construction requirements cited in table VI, as well as finished measurement requirements. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), seam allowances shall be as cited in 3.6. Finished appearance shall be as specified in paragraphs 3.9.1 through 3.9.14. All parts of the trousers shall finish without pleats, puckers, gathers, excessive fullness, or other distortions.

3.9.1 Flies. The finished flies shall be as specified below:

a. The finished flies are smooth and flat.

b. The left fly overedge stitching is securely caught in the fabric.

c. The flies are of even length where they join at the crotch seam.

d. The fastener parts are set so there is no twisting or puckering when the fly is closed.

e. The top corners of the right and left flies are completely forced out and not bulky.

f. The stitching of the left fly is uniformly stitched from the edge of the fly.

g. The seam joining the left fly to the front is not exposed on the outside.

h. In the finished trousers, the right fly lining extension shall finish not less than 1/2 inch beyond the juncture point of the right and left inseam.

3.9.2 ID pockets. The ID pocket facings and identification pockets halves shall be properly positioned and securely sewn.

3.9.3 Waistband lining. The waistband lining shall measure not less than 2 inches wide in the finished trousers.

The waistband linings may be pieced provided the seam finishes flat and there is not more than one piecing on each pair of trousers. The waistband stabilizer may be 1 inch shorter than the waistband lining at the seat seam. In the finished trousers, the waistband lining shall not be exposed beyond the top edge of the waistband.

3.9.4 Darts in back. The darts shall be properly positioned and finished. In the finished trousers, the darts shall be well tapered to a flat point and end where indicated on the patterns.

3.9.5 Label attachment. The stitching shall be uniform and secure, and the label shall be legible after attachment. The barcode label/tag shall be located so that it is completely visible on the item when folded/packaged.

3.9.6 Outseams. Outseams shall be carefully joined with notches matching. The seams shall start and finish evenly and lie smooth and flat.

3.9.7 Ornamentation. Ornamentation shall be set on the trousers from the top edge of the fronts to the bottom edge of the legs with the top end to finish in the waistband seam. The stripes shall be securely and uniformly stitched, properly positioned, and finish without distortion.

3.9.8 Waistband. The finished waistband shall measure 1-3/4±1/8 inches wide.

3.9.9 Hook and eye closure. In the finished trousers, the closure shall not bulge, pucker, or twist when the hook and eye is engaged.

3.9.10 Inseam. Inseams shall be carefully joined with notches matching and without twists or puckers. The seams shall start and finish evenly and lie smooth and flat.

3.9.11 Crotch and seat seam. The crotch and seat seams shall be joined with a stitch tension of sufficient elasticity to meet the strain of sitting and stooping. The waist shall be measured before joining the crotch and seat seam to ensure correct waist size. In the finished trousers, the inseams shall meet, and the right and left waistband joining seams shall be aligned. The base of the right fly shall cover the left fly on the outside. The inseam at the crotch shall not stagger more than 3/8 inch.

3.9.12 Bartacks. The trousers shall be not distorted by the bartacks. The pockets shall lie smooth and flat. The bartacks shall be properly positioned and correctly placed to reinforce the points of strain as specified. Bartacks shall be 3/8 to 1/2 inch long and stitched through all plies of the material at the point of the bartacking.

3.9.13 Buttons (inside waistband). The buttons shall be securely sewn and properly aligned with the buttonholes. Hand-sewn buttons shall be shank wrapped three times, and the thread shall be securely tacked with not less than two stitches. Machine sewn buttons, which are automatically shanked, shall have a minimum of ten wraps with three locking stitches. Shank wrapping is optional on machine-sewn buttons.

3.9.14 Pressing and cleanliness. All pressing shall be done with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine to obtain the desired appearance in accordance with good manufacturing practice. All ends of stitching shall be trimmed, and all loose threads, spots, stains, and shade tickets or markings shall be removed without injury to the material.

3.10 Workmanship. Each finished pair of trousers shall conform to the quality of product established by this document. Defects shall not exceed the established maximum Acceptance Quality Limits (AQL), as specified

(see 6.2), and shall not adversely affect the serviceability, appearance, and uniformity of the product.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article inspection. First article inspection shall be performed on the trousers when a first article sample is required (see 3.1.1). This inspection shall include the examinations and tests of 4.4.1 through 4.4.4 for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship, dimensional requirements, and testing as specified in this document.

4.2.1 First article samples and acceptance criteria. The first article sample size shall be as specified (see 6.2).

The sample unit shall be one pair of finished trousers. The lot size shall be expressed in units of trousers. The presence of defects exceeding specified AQLs (see 3.10 and 6.2) or failure of any testing (see 6.2) shall be cause for rejection of the first article.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the contract (see 6.2), conformance inspection, in accordance with 3.1.2, shall consist of the examinations and tests of 4.4.1 through 4.4.4.

4.3.1 Component and material sampling and acceptance criteria. Unless otherwise specified in referenced documents or procurement documents (see 6.2), sampling shall be in accordance with table VII. The component lot shall be unacceptable if one or more sample units fail to meet any examination or test requirements specified in this document (see 6.2).

TABLE VII. Material sampling.

Lot size Sample size (sample units)

800 or fewer 2

801 through 22,000 3

22,001 and over 5

4.3.2 End item sampling and acceptance criteria. Unless otherwise specified in the contract (see 6.2), sampling for inspection shall be performed for dress/semi-dress (D/S) trousers in accordance with the provisions of

MIL-STD-1488. The sample shall be one pair of finished trousers. The lot size shall be expressed in units of trousers. The presence of excessive defects or failure of any testing as specified (see 6.2) shall be cause for rejection of the lot.

4.4 Inspection methods.

4.4.1 Component and material examinations and tests. In accordance with 4.1, components and materials shall be examined and tested as specified in table VIII unless otherwise excluded, amended, or modified in this document or as specified (see 6.2).

TABLE VIII. Component and material verification.

Material/Component Requirement Verification

Basic material 3.5.2 MIL-DTL-29405

Lining, interfacing, pocket stays, and pocketing

3.5.3 A-A-52106

Buckram 3.5.4 A-A-59992

Waistband stabilizer 3.5.5 A-A-59992

Slide fastener 3.5.6 A-A-55634

Hook and eye 3.5.7 Visual (see 6.6)

Threads 3.5.8

Per specific thread specification listed in table II

Thread, shade 3.5.8 Visual 1/

Buttons 3.5.9 A-A-59994

Button, shade 3.5.9 Visual 1/

Label 3.5.10.1 and 3.5.10.2 MIL-DTL-32075

Striping 3.5.11 Per specific striping specification listed in 3.5.11

FOOTNOTE:

1/ Results recorded as pass or fail.

4.4.2 In-process examination. Visual and dimensional examinations shall be made at any point during the manufacturing process to determine whether construction details, which cannot be examined in the finished product, are in accordance with the requirements specified in section 3. Materials and components that contain defects and damages, as defined in the visual examination of 4.4.3, shall be removed from production. Any in-process nonconformance remaining in the finished trousers shall be classified as a defect in accordance with the visual examination of 4.4.3.

4.4.3 Visual examination. Sampling and visual examination of the end item for defects in color, design, materials, construction, workmanship, and marking shall be performed in accordance with the provisions for D/S trousers of MIL-STD-1488.

4.4.3.1 Additional defects. The end items shall be examined for the following labeling defects, which are not listed in MIL-STD-1488. These defects shall be scored as minor.

a. Barcode omitted or not readable by scanner.

b. Human readable interpretation omitted or illegible.

4.4.4 Dimensional examination. The trousers shall be examined for conformance to the dimensions specified in table IV, when measured in accordance with table V, in accordance with the provisions of MIL-STD-1488.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of materiel is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or

Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The trousers are intended to be worn by male personnel of the United States Marine Corps.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number, and date of this specification.

b. NSNs.

c. Sizes and lengths required (see 1.2).

d. When first article inspection is required (see 3.1.1).

e. When conformance inspection is required (see 3.1.2 and 4.3).

f. The color of the slide fastener tape, if other than specified (see 3.5.6).

g. Thread shade, if other than specified (see 3.5.8).

h. Button color, if other than specified (see 3.5.9).

i. Applicable Government pattern references, with pattern date (see 3.6).

j. Seam allowances, if other than as specified in 3.6 (see 3.9).

k. Any operations deemed necessary to be specified (see 3.9).

l. AQLs (see 3.10).

m. First article sampling and acceptance criteria (see 4.2.1).

n. Component and material sampling and acceptance criteria (see 4.3.1).

o. End item sampling and acceptance criteria (see 4.3.2).

p. Component and material examination and tests (see 4.4.1).

q. Packaging requirements (see 5.1).

6.3 Information requests. Requests for information such as purchase descriptions, patterns, drawings, and standard shade samples of cloth can be made by completing and submitting the Defense Logistics Agency Troop

Support’s Clothing and Textile Specification/Drawing/Pattern Request Form online at https://www.dla.mil/TroopSupport/ClothingandTextiles/SpecRequest.aspx. Requests to use equivalent materials or components or to make changes to the pattern should be sent to the contracting officer for approval by the military services.

6.4 Hook and eye suggested sources of supply. A known source for hook and eye fasteners and associated attaching pieces that meet the requirements of this specification is listed below:

Snapco Manufacturing Corporation

140 Central Avenue

Hillside, NJ 07205

Phone: 973-282-0500

Fax: 973-282-7627 http://snapcofasteners.com/hookandeye.html

Reference: No. 8 hook and no. 85 eye with associated reinforcement pieces https://www.dla.mil/TroopSupport/ClothingandTextiles/SpecRequest.aspx http://snapcofasteners.com/hookandeye.html

6.5 Hem allowance. An allowance of 3 inches for hemming is included in the inseam length (see 3.7).

6.6 Certificates of compliance. Certificates of compliance may be accepted in lieu of testing at the discretion of the contracting agency. Manufacturers are advised to confirm acceptability of certificates of compliance prior to submitting them to address any requirement.

6.7 Changes from previous issue. Marginal notations are not used in this revision to identify changes with respect to the previous issue due to the extent of the changes.

6.8 Subject term (key word) listing.

Marine Corps

Uniform

TABLE IX. Manufacturing operations.

No. Operation Stich

Type

Seam

Type

Stiches per Inch Needle BOB/

LPR 1/

1. Cutting.

a. Cut the trousers in accordance with the patterns furnished by the Government.

b. Cut the material in the direction indicated by the directional lines on the patterns.

Lay fronts and backs so that the directional lines are in the warp direction. The directional lines may deviate from the warp direction by not more than 1 inch on both fronts and backs. Measurements should be taken from the top and bottom of the directional line on the patterns to the selvage edge of the fabric, and the difference between the two measurements should not exceed the tolerance specified.

c. Cut the component parts for the trousers from one piece of the basic material, except the following parts may be cut from ends: left and right flies and fly buttonhole tab.

When so cut, the parts should harmonize with the shade of the trousers.

d. Cut the ornamental stripes to the required length.

2. Replacement of damaged parts.

a. Replace any part containing damages at time of cutting, such as holes or serious weakening defects such as smashes, multiple floats, and slubs likely to develop into holes.

b. Replace any part damaged during the manufacturing process by needle chews (such that the damage may be expected to develop into a hole), scissors or knife cuts, tears, holes, mends or burns, and large exposed drill holes.

3. Shade marking.

a. Mark or ticket the component parts to ensure a uniform shade and proper assembly throughout the trousers, except those parts specified in operation 1.c, which may be cut from ends and need not match each other. Ticket should conform to 3.6.2.

4. Overedge stitch trousers.

Finished appearance. The overedge stitching is securely caught in the fabric. The raw edge of the overedged material is properly trimmed.

a. Overedge stitch the inseam a0nd outseam of the front of the trouser and the fly edge of right front. The overedge stitching of the inseam of the left front should extend from the bottom of the trouser to the fly notch. The overedge stitching of the outseam of the fronts should extend from the top of the waist to the bottom of the trouser leg.

503 or 504 EFd-1 6-10 70/2 70/2

TABLE IX. Manufacturing operations – Continued.

No. Operation Stich

Type

Seam

Type

Stiches per Inch Needle BOB/

LPR 1/

4. Overedge stitch trousers (continued).

b. Overedge stitch the inseam and outseam of the back part of the trousers. The side pocket stay piece, with the bottom edge turned up, may be attached to the outseam in the overedge operation.

503 or 504 EFd-1 6-10 70/2 70/2

c. Overedge stitch the crotch seam, seat seam, and raw edge at the left end of waistband. 503 or

EFd-1 6-10 70/2 70/2

5. Make left fly.

Finished appearance. The left fly finishes smooth without twists, puckering, or distortion. The overedge stitching is securely caught in the fabric.

a. Position the slide fastener on the fly and interlining material with the bottom end of the chain 1/4 to 1/2 inch above the fly notch. The front edge of the chain should be

5/8 to 3/4 inch from the front edge of the finished fly at the top, tapering from

3/8 to 1/2 inch at the bottom. Seam the fastener tape to the fly through the interlining with a double row of stitches of 3/16- to 1/4-inch gage.

301 or

LSbj-2 12-16 A A

b. Overedge the back edge of the left fly and fly interlining together. 503 or

SSa-1 6-10 70/2 70/2

6. Make buttonhole tab for right fly.

Finished appearance. The buttonhole tab finishes without distortion, with the buttonhole stitching securely caught in the fabric, and with the seams finished at the edge of the tab.

a. The tab should be made of two plies of basic material.

b. Seam the plies together at the top, front, and bottom edges with a 3/16- to 1/4-inch seam and turn, forming out all edges.

301 SSe-2 (a) 12-16 A A

c. Topstitch the tab 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the seamed edges. 301 SSe-2 (b) 12-16 A A

d. Make a 5/8-inch, horizontal, eyelet-end, taper-bar type buttonhole through the center of the tab with the edge of the eyelet 1/2±1/8 inch from the finished end of the tab. The buttonhole should be well worked over gimp to fit a 22-line button and with the purling on the inner side of tab.

Buttonhole

48 min per buttonhole

(incl.

tack)

A A

(silk)

TABLE IX. Manufacturing operations – Continued.

No. Operation Stich

Type

Seam

Type

Stiches per Inch Needle BOB/

LPR 1/

7. Make right fly.

Finished appearance. The right fly finishes without bulkiness, twists, puckers, or pleats.

a. The fly consists of one ply of basic material, a buttonhole tab, and the lining.

b. Position the buttonhole tab on the outside of the fly, with raw edges even and the upper finished edge of tab in line with the notch in the upper front edge of the fly.

c. Seam the fly and lining together 3/16 inch from the front edge. The seam should extend from the bottom edge of the fly up to the upper edge of the buttonhole tab, catching the tab in the stitching.

301 SSe-2 (a) 12-16 40/3 or A 40/3 or A

In the finished trousers, the upper end of the lining should extend to the top of the waistband over the waistband lining, and the lining extension piece at the lower end should extend not less than 1/2 inch beyond the inseam.

8.

Assemble right and left flies.

Finished appearance. The flies are of even length where they join the crotch seam. The fastener parts are set so that there is no twisting or puckering when fly is closed.

a. Position the flies with the notches at the lower end matching, and seam the fastener tape to the back edge of the right fly, stitching 1/4 inch from edge.

301 Ssa-1 12-16 A A

9. Make watch pockets and attach label.

Finished appearance. The watch pocket facing and watch pocket halves are properly positioned and securely sewn without pleats, puckers, or other distortions.

a. The watch pocket should be made of two pieces of pocketing material and a facing consisting of one ply of basic material.

b. Position the facing over one ply of pocket material with the upper edges even. Turn under the lower edge of the facing and seam to the pocket 1/8 inch from the folded edge.

A selvage edge need not be turned.

301 LSd-1 12-16 A A

c. Stitch the label to the outside of the front half of one watch pocket on all four sides.

The position of the label on the finished trousers is centered, 1/2 inch below the finished pocket opening.

301 Ssa-1 12-16 40/3 40/3

TABLE IX. Manufacturing operations – Continued.

No. Operation Stich

Type

Seam

Type

Stiches per Inch Needle BOB/

LPR 1/

9. Make watch pockets and attach label (continued).

d. Properly position the front and back pieces of the pocket with the edges even and join together at the side and bottom edges with a 1/4-inch seam. The stitching should extend from notch to notch at the upper side edges.

301 Sse-2 (a) 12-16 40/3 40/3

e. Turn the pocket, forcing out the seamed edges. Topstitch the pocket uniformly

1/4 inch from the seamed edges.

301 Sse-2 (b) 12-16 40/3 40/3

10. Seam crotch lining to fronts.

The crotch lining consists of lining material and extends not less than 1 inch above fly notch.

a. Fold crotch lining lengthwise to form a double thickness and seam to the fronts or attach to the fronts in the overedge operation.

301 or

503 or 504

SSa-1

EFd-1

12-16

6-10 A 70/2 A 70/2

11. Seam darts in back.

Finished appearance. The darts are properly positioned and finished without pleats, puckers, or gathers. In the finished trousers, the darts are well tapered to a flat point at the lower end and extend to the pocket opening.

a. Fold the backs, matching the cut edges of the waist darts. Seam lengthwise along the entire length of the dart, starting 3/8 inch from the cut edges at the top end and tapering to a point at the lower end as indicated by the marks on patterns.

301 SSa-1 12-16 A A

b. Spread open and press darts smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine.

TABLE IX. Manufacturing operations – Continued.

No. Operation Stich

Type

Seam

Type

Stiches per Inch Needle BOB/

LPR 1/

12. Attach watch pockets.

Finished appearance. The completed watch pocket openings are not stretched, and the material is not exposed on the outside.

a. Position the pockets on the outside of the fronts at the pocket notches for the pocket openings. Seam the front part of the pocket only to the front of the trousers 3/8 inch from the top edge, from notch to notch.

301 SSe-2 (a) 12-16 40/3 A

b. Extend the depth of the notches to the seam. Turn the pocket to the inside of the front of the trousers and edgestitch the pocket opening 1/8 inch below the top edge.

301 SSe-2 (b) 12-16 40/3 A

c. Securely tack the ends of the pocket opening through the front of the trousers and the front and back of the pocket.

301 SSa-1 12-16 A A

In the finished trousers, the notches for the pocket opening should not be exposed, and the edge of the opening should meet the lower edge of the waistband. The pocket opening (after bartacking) should be 2-7/8±1/8 inches, and the depth of the pocket should be 3-3/4±1/4 inches.

13. Join fly assembly to fronts.

Finished appearance. The seam joining the fly assembly to the front is without pleats, puckers, twists, or other distortions.

a. Sew on the left fly with a 3/8-inch seam with notches matching. 301 SSa-1 12-16 A A

b. Turn the left fly to the inside with the joining seam 1/8 inch back from the folded edge and press the front edge without damage to the fastener.

c. Sew on the right fly with a 3/8-inch seam with notches matching. 301 LSq-2 (a) 12-16 A A

d. Press the right fly seam open and flat with a heated pressing iron with the fastener tape facing towards the side seam.

14. Join outseams.

Finished appearance. Outseams are carefully joined, with notches matching, and without twists, puckers, or pleats. The seams start and finish evenly and lie smooth and flat.

a. Join the outseam with a 3/8-inch seam, matching the notches as indicated by the marks on the patterns.

301 or

SSa-1 (b) 12-16 A A

b. Spread open the outseams from the top edge of the trousers to the bottom and press smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine.

TABLE IX. Manufacturing operations – Continued.

No. Operation Stich

Type

Seam

Type

Stiches per Inch Needle BOB/

LPR 1/

15. Attach ornamentation.

Finished appearance. Ornamentation is be centered over the outseam on the trousers from the top edge of the trousers to the bottom edge of the legs with the top end to finish in the waistband seam. The ornamentation is securely and uniformly stitched, properly positioned, and without distortion.

a. Stitch the ornamentation to the trousers from top to bottom 1/16 to 1/8 inch from each edge of the braid.

301 SSas-4 (b) 12-16 A (silk) A (silk)

16. Sew waistband to trousers.

Finished appearance. The waistband is seamed to the trousers smoothly and neatly without fullness, gathers, or pleats.

a. The waistband should be made of one ply of basic material.

b. Seam the waistband to the trousers 3/8 inch from edge. 301 SSa-1 12-16 A A

The raw right front ends of the waistband extend 1/4 to 3/8 inch beyond the front edge of the right fly. The left front ends of the waistband finish even with the back edge of the left fly. The raw right and left back ends of the waistband finish even with the edges of the back.

17. Press waistband seam.

a. Press the waistband seam open and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine.

18. Attach hooks and eyes.

Finished appearance. In the finished trousers, when the hook and eye is engaged, the closure does not bulge, pucker, or twist.

a. Position the hook at the center 1/4 inch of the left waistband with the rolled edge of the hook aligned with the slide fastener scoops. Attach the hook to the left waistband through a suitable reinforcement.

b. Position the eye at the center of the right waistband aligned with the slide fastener scoops and corresponding the with hook and left waistband. Attach the eye to the right waistband through a suitable reinforcement.

TABLE IX. Manufacturing operations – Continued.

No. Operation Stich

Type

Seam

Type

Stiches per Inch Needle BOB/

LPR 1/

19. Seam front ends of waistband.

a. Turn back the right fly lining and stitch the top end to the front and top edges of the waistband down to the buttonhole tab, rounding off the corner slightly. Trim the corner. 301

SSe-2 (a)

(each edge)

12-16 A A

b. Turn back the end of the left waistband in line with the joining seam of the left fly to the front and stitch across the top edge of the waistband the width of the fly.

301 SSa-1 12-16 A A

20. Join lining to waistband.

a. Insert the top edge of the waistband between the lining and the buckram of waistband lining, with the edge of lining turned in, and join all plies with a row of imitation hand-felled stitches, or the trouser waistband lining may be felled by hand.

304 or

404 or

Hand

12-16

12-16

7-10

40/3 40/3

The left end of the waistband lining finishes at the front edge of the trousers with the end of the waistband lining trimmed slightly back from the front edge on an angle. The right end of the waistband lining should extend approximately 1 inch under the fly lining in the finished trouser.

21. Press waistband.

a. Turn out the front end of the left and right waistband, forcing out the corners. Turn the waistband lining to the inside and press along the top edge of the waistband. The trouser waistband lining is not exposed beyond the top edge of the waistband.

The finished width of the waistband is 1-3/4±1/8 inches.

22. Finish left fly.

Finished appearance. The base of the fly should be finished so as to avoid twisting, pleating, or puckering. The joining seam of the left fly to the front is not exposed on the outside of the trouser.

a. Seam the back edge of the left fly to the front from the notch to the top of the waistband uniformly 1-1/2±1/8 inches from the front edge to the fly.

301 SSa-1 12-16

A

A

TABLE IX. Manufacturing operations – Continued.

No. Operation Stich

Type

Seam

Type

Stiches per Inch Needle BOB/

LPR 1/

23. Finish right fly.

a. Turn to the inside and edgestitch the right fly lining to the front and top edges of the right fly and through the buttonhole tab 1/8 inch from edge. 301

SSe-2 (b)

(show finished seams)

12-16 40/3 A

The lining is not exposed on the outside of the trousers.

b. Turn under the raw edge of the fly lining and raise stitch the fly joining seam, catching the turned under portion of the lining and slide fastener tape in the stitching.

301 LSg-2 (b) 12-16

A

(silk) 40/3

24. Join inseam.

Finished appearance. Inseams are carefully joined with the notches matching and without twists or puckers. The seams start and finish evenly and are smooth and flat.

a. Join the inseam from the bottom edge of the legs to the crotch with the notches matching as indicated by the marks on the patterns, forming an outlet tapering the seam allowance of the back from 1-1/8 inches at the crotch to 3/8 inch at the knee notch.

401 SSa-1 12-16 A A

b. Press the inseam open.

25. Join crotch and seat seam.

Finished appearance. The crotch and seat seams are joined with proper tension, resulting in sufficient elasticity of the seam to counteract strain encountered in sitting or stooping.

In the joining of the seat seam, the inseams meet.

a. Measure the waist to the proper size before joining the crotch, seat, and waist seam.

b. Place the left and right assemblies together with the edges of the crotch seam aligned with the waistband on the left assembly, aligned with the waistband on the right assembly at the fly opening, and with the notches at the lower end of the flies matching.

c. Join the left and right assemblies at the crotch and seat seam from the fly notch to a point 1/2 to 3/4 inch from the top of the finished waistband with two rows of stitches not more than 1/32 inch apart, forming a 1/2-inch V-shaped opening at the back. The left and right assemblies should be joined at the crotch with a 1/2-inch seam.

401 SSa-2 10-14 A A

d. Fold back the waistband lining over the joining seat seam and single stitch each end of the outlet 1/4 inch from the seat seam, with the lower corner diagonally folded and caught in the stitching. Turn and force out upper corners.

SSa-1

(each end) 12-16 A A

TABLE IX. Manufacturing operations – Continued.

No. Operation Stich

Type

Seam

Type

Stiches per Inch Needle BOB/

LPR 1/

26. Assemble slide fastener.

a. Attach the slider and securely staple the bottom of fastener together with the ends of the chain even and the head of the staple towards the outside.

27. Press seams (with heated pressing iron or pressing machine).

Finished appearance. The seams finish smooth and flat without pleats, puckers, or twists.

a. Spread open the seat and crotch seams from the top of the waistband to the fly notch and press smooth and flat.

28. Stitch right fly lining extension to crotch seams.

a. Turn under raw edge of the right fly lining extension and stitch by machine or hand fell to each side of the crotch seam.

301 or

Hand

SSa-1

(each edge)

12-16

6-8

40/3

0 (silk) A

The right fly lining extends not less than 1/2 inch beyond the inseam in the finished trousers.

29. Finish waistband.

Finished appearance. The waistband finishes smooth, even, and flat without gathers, puckers, pleats, or other distortions either in the waistband or the trousers at the waistband joining. On the finished trousers, the waistband is uniformly 1-3/4±1/8 inches wide, and the waistband lining finishes 2-1/2±1/8 inches wide.

a. Topstitch the waistband seam 1/16 inch from the joining seam on the trousers side

(not through the waistband), catching the waistband lining. The stitching extends to the stitching on the left (not across) the fly and to the back edge of the right fly.

LSd-2

(show finished seam)

12-16 A

40/3

TABLE IX. Manufacturing operations – Continued.

No. Operation Stich

Type

Seam

Type

Stiches per Inch Needle BOB/

LPR 1/

30. Bartack trousers.

Finished appearance. The trousers are not distorted by the bartacks. The watch pockets lie smooth and flat. The bartacks are properly positioned and correctly placed to reinforce the points of strain as specified.

a. Bartack both ends of all watch pocket openings. Bartacks for the watch pockets should be vertical.

Bartack

28 per bartack

A

(silk) 40/3

b. Bartack the bottom end of the fly horizontally through all plies at the juncture of the crotch seam and fly.

Bartack

28 per bartack

A

(silk) 40/3

c. Bartack the front edge of the right fly to the back of the left fly with a vertical bartack, with the lower end of the bartack approximately 3/4 inch above the horizontal bartacks at the base of the fly.

Bartack 28 per bartack 0 40/3

d. Bartacks should be made 3/8 to 1/2 inch long and be stitched through all plies of material at the point of bartacking.

31. Sew buttons to trousers.

Finished appearance. The buttons are securely sewn with the ends of the stitchings securely tacked. The buttons are properly aligned with the buttonholes to secure a smooth and complete closure without bulging or misalignment.

a. Sew a 22-line button through the waistband lining only in line with the buttonhole in the right tab.

or

20-22 per button

14-16 per button

4 per button

(double thread)

24/4 24/4

b. Sew six 27-line buttons on the inside of the waistband lining only. One button is positioned over each of the side seams, one button on each front 4-1/2 to 4-3/4 inches from the side seam, and one on each of the backs 2-1/4 to 2-3/8 inches from the back seam. The center of the buttons is positioned 1/2 to 5/8 inch below the top of the waistband.

101 or

301 or

Hand

20-22 per button

14-16 per button

4 per button

(double thread)

24/4 24/4

TABLE IX. Manufacturing operations – Continued.

No. Operation…