MarineCorpsSkirtsMIL-DTL-29429C.pdf

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AMSC N/A FSC 8410

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

INCH-POUND

MIL-DTL-29429C(MC)

w/AMENDMENT 1

23 May 2022

SUPERSEDING

17 October 2019

DETAIL SPECIFICATION

SKIRTS, WOMEN’S

This specification is approved for use by the United States Marine Corps and is available for use by all

Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This specification covers women’s polyester and polyester blend skirts, comprised of a shell and a lining (see 6.1).

1.2 Classification. The skirts are of the following types, classes, sizes, and lengths (see 6.2 and 6.5).

1.2.1 Types.

a. Type I - Short length

b. Type II - Long length

1.2.2 Classes.

a. Class 1 - Polyester/wool gabardine; Green 2212

b. Class 2 - Polyester/wool gabardine; Dark Blue 2312

c. Class 3 - Polyester twill; White 2415

d. Class 4 - Polyester/wool tropical; Black 2607

1.2.3 Schedule of sizes.

a. Sizes - X0, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18

b. Lengths - Short, Regular, Long

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

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2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-Covered

A-A-52106 - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend

A-A-55634 - Zippers (Fasteners, Slide Interlocking)

A-A-59826 - Thread, Nylon

A-A-59994 - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple, (Plastic)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-371 - Braid, Textile, Tubular

MIL-T-5237 - Tape, Textile; Webbing, Textile; Rayon

MIL-DTL-10176 - Cloth, Gabardine: Wool, Polyester and Wool

MIL-DTL-21115 - Cloth, Tropical: Wool, Polyester/Wool

MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use)

MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusibles

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS

MIL-STD-984 - Provisions for Size Labeling for Women’s Uniform Clothing

MIL-STD-1609 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Women’s Skirts

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

MARINE CORPS SYSTEMS COMMAND – PRODUCT MANAGER, INFANTRY COMBAT EQUIPMENT

(PdM – ICE)

MC/PD 07-12 SYSCOM - Cloth, Twill, Polyester and Cotton Blend

MC/PD 08-12 SYSCOM - Cloth, Twill, Polyester

(Copies of these documents are available by emailing USMC_STDZ@usmc.mil.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC TM8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method

AATCC TM15 - Colorfastness to Perspiration

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AATCC TM20A - Test Method for Fiber Analysis: Quantitative

AATCC TM132 - Colorfastness to Drycleaning

AATCC TM158 - Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning in Perchloroethylene: Machine Method

(Copies of these documents are available online at www.aatcc.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D3775 - Standard Test Method for End (Warp) and Pick (Filling) Count of Woven

Fabrics

ASTM D3776/D3776M - Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric

ASTM D5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile

Fabrics (Grab Test)

ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of these documents are available online at www.astm.org.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Inspections.

3.1.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.1.2 Conformance. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to a conformance inspection in accordance with 4.3.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Materials and components.

3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for the shell, waistband, zipper placket, and ID pocket of each class of skirt shall conform to the requirements of table I, when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

TABLE I. Basic material requirements.

Class Requirement Shade Description

1 MIL-DTL-10176, type II, class 12 Green 2212 Polyester/wool gabardine

2 MIL-DTL-10176, type II, class 12 Dark Blue 2312 Polyester/wool gabardine

3 MC/PD 08-12 SYSCOM, type I, class 1 White 2415 Polyester twill

Alternate MC/PD 07-12 SYSCOM, type I, class 1 White 2415 Polyester/cotton twill

4 MIL-DTL-21115, type III, class 1 Black 2607 Polyester/wool tropical file://///alexva-filesvr/ALX_Projects/systech/Specs%20&%20Stds%20Processing%20-%20Elaine/Marine%20Corps%20Specs%20&%20Stds/29429%20(Skirts,%20Women’s)%20-%20SL/www.aatcc.org http://www.astm.org/

3.3.2 Lining. The material for lining the skirts shall be an acetate lining material, twill or satin (alternate) weave, conforming to the requirements of table II below, when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

TABLE II. Lining requirements.

Characteristic Twill requirement Satin requirement

Shade: classes 1 – 4 Good match to the shade of the basic material

Alternate shade: classes 2 and 4 Black

Fiber identification Acetate

Yarns per inch (minimum)

Warp 120 288

Filling 68 68

Weight (minimum) 3.8 ounces per square yard 4.9 ounces per square yard

Breaking strength (minimum)

Dry: warp 74 pounds 83 pounds

Dry: filling 49 pounds 117 pounds

Wet: warp 54 pounds 54 pounds

Wet: filling 34 pounds 77 pounds

Colorfastness to perspiration (minimum) (see 6.6)

Color change 5 5

Staining on cotton 3.5 5

Staining on wool 4.5 5

Colorfastness to drycleaning (minimum) (see 6.6)

Color change 4.5 5

Staining on cotton 4.5 5

Staining on wool 4.5 5

Colorfastness to crocking (minimum) (see 6.6) 4.5 4.5

Dimensional stability to drycleaning (maximum)

Individual sample unit ±3.5% ±3.5%

Lot average ±3.0% ±3.0%

3.3.3 Interfacing. The material for the waistband interfacing shall be polyester or polyester/cotton twill or plain weave cloth conforming to A-A-52106, class 1, when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The color shall be black for the class 1, 2, and 4 skirts and white for the class 3 skirts.

3.3.3.1 Alternate fusible waistband interfacing. As an alternate for all classes of skirts, a fusible waistband interfacing may be used. The fusible interfacing shall conform to MIL-C-44296, type V, class 1, style B, when tested as specified in 4.4.1. Any fused part shall retain its original appearance and properties for the life of the garment. The fusible shall not be visible through the fabric. The fusible shall be a nonwoven, polyester/nylon web

(with a minimum of 50 percent polyester) that has been thermally bonded with an adhesive resin applied to the substrate. The color shall be grey or black for the class 1, 2, and 4 skirts and white for the class 3 skirts.

3.3.4 Hanger braid. The braid for the skirt hangers shall be a tubular braid conforming to MIL-DTL-371, type IX, class 1, when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The shade shall be a good match to the shade of the basic material. As an alternate, the shade may be black for the class 1, 2, and 4 skirts and white for the class 3 skirts.

3.3.5 Kick pleat binding (alternate). As an alternate to overedging the kick pleat of the shell, the edge of the kick pleat may be bound using rayon tape conforming to MIL-T-5237, type I, when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The shade shall be a good match to the shade of the basic material.

3.3.6 Thread. The threads used in the construction of the skirts shall conform to the requirements of the thread documents as cited in table III and shall match the shade requirement. Unless otherwise specified in the referenced thread documents, all threads shall show colorfastness to light and drycleaning equal to or better than “3 - 4”.

Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.1.

TABLE III. Thread requirements.

Use

(seam type) Description Document Ticket no. (tex) Ply Shade

Seaming

(301)

Cotton-covered polyester core

A-A-50199, type I

50 (36-45) for needle

Good match to the shade of the basic material

(see 3.3.1 and 6.7) 50 (36-45) or 70 (31-35) for bobbin

Seaming

(401)

Cotton-covered polyester core

A-A-50199, type I

50 (36-45) for needle

Good match to the shade of the basic material

(see 3.3.1 and 6.7) 70 (31-35) for looper

Overedging

(504 and 505)

Cotton-covered polyester core

A-A-50199, type I

70 (31-35) for needle and looper

Good match to the shade of the basic material

(see 3.3.1 and 6.7)

Raise, edge, & topstitching

Cotton-covered polyester core

A-A-50199, type I

50 (36-45) for needle

Good match to the shade of the basic material

(see 3.3.1 and 6.7) 50 (36-45) or 70 (31-35) for bobbin

Bartacks Cotton-covered polyester core

A-A-50199, type I

50 (36-45) for needle and bobbin

Good match to the shade of the basic material

(see 3.3.1 and 6.7)

Buttonholes Cotton-covered polyester core

A-A-50199, type I

50 (36-45) for needle and bobbin

Good match to the shade of the basic material

(see 3.3.1 and 6.7)

Buttons Cotton-covered polyester core

A-A-50199, type I

50 (36-45) for needle and bobbin

Good match to the shade of the basic material

(see 3.3.1 and 6.7)

Buttons

(automatic that sews and wraps in one operation)

Nylon, waxed A-A-59826, type III 1/ Special no.5

Mono-cord

Good match to the shade of the basic material

(see 3.3.1 and 6.7)

Buttonhole reinforcement Cotton gimp

A-A-50198, soft or glazed finish

8 (210)

Good match to the shade of the basic material

(see 3.3.1 and 6.7)

FOOTNOTE:

1/ Except a minimum breaking strength of 16 pounds and a minimum length per pound of 2,150 yards.

3.3.7 Buttons. The button for the waistband shall be 27-line conforming to A-A-59994, type I, class 1, style 4, when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The shade of the buttons shall be a good match to the shade of the basic material

(see 3.3.1).

3.3.8 Zipper. The zipper shall conform to A-A-55634, type I (non-separating and non-reversible), style 4

(automatic lock, open top stop, closed bottom stop, single slider), size 2, when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The salt spray test is not required. As an alternate, a cam lock may be used. The single slider shall have a short tab pull.

The chain may be an individual element or continuous element chain, and may be made from brass or a plastic polymer (polyester or nylon). For metal zippers, all metal components of the zipper shall be brass and from the same manufacturer. The shade of all components of the plastic zipper shall be a good match to the shade of the basic material (see 3.3.1). The tape for a metal zipper shall be cotton or synthetic or a combination, and the tape for a plastic zipper shall be polyester or a blend of nylon and cotton or polyester and cotton. The shade of the tape shall be a good match to the shade of the basic material (see 3.3.1), and only the colorfastness to drycleaning shall apply.

The length of the zipper shall be 7 inches long for all sizes.

3.3.9 Labels.

3.3.9.1 Identification/instruction label. Each skirt shall have a combination identification and instruction label conforming to MIL-DTL-32075, type VI, class 15 when tested as specified in 4.4.1. For colorfastness, only colorfastness to drycleaning requirements apply. The label shall bear the following inscription and be in the following configuration:

SKIRT, WOMEN’S

STOCK NO.: 8410-00-000-0000 (Example)

FIBER CONTENT: 55% Polyester/45% Wool (Example)

CONTRACT NO.: DLA-100-00-000 (Example)

NAME OF CONTRACTOR:

DRY CLEAN ONLY

3.3.9.2 Size label. Each skirt shall have a size label conforming to MIL-DTL-32075, type VI, class 2 when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The stock number is not required. Size labeling for body dimensions shall conform to

MIL-STD-984, and the size label shall bear the following inscription:

EXAMPLE Hip Circ. 37-1/2"

Waist Circ. 27"

Height Less than 63-1/2" (S)

Size 8S

EXAMPLE Hip Circ. 39"

Waist Circ. 28-1/2"

Height More than 67" (L)

Size 10L

NOTES:

1. Use the following abbreviations for heights and lengths: “S” for short, “R” for regular, and “L” for long.

2. The Marine Corps body measurements (hip and waist circumference) for each size label are contained in

MIL-STD-984 and are not to be confused with finished dimensions of the skirt contained in this specification.

3.3.9.3 Barcode label. Each item shall be individually barcoded with a paper label/tag conforming to

MIL-DTL-32075, type VIII, class 17 when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The tag shall be attached to the item by a fastener. The label’s location and attachment method shall cause no damage to the item. The barcoding element shall be a 13-digit National Stock Number (NSN) and the appropriate 12-digit Universal Product Code (UPC) assigned to the NSN by the Government. The initials “UPC” shall appear beneath the code. The barcodes for the

NSN and UPC shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so that they are completely visible on the item when the item is folded or packaged as specified herein.

3.4 Design. The skirts shall be the United States Marine Corps design shown in figures 1 through 4. Type I is a shorter length skirt, and type II is a longer length skirt. The skirt is comprised of a shell and a full free-hanging inner lining attached to the waistband. The skirt shall be a gore style with three front panels and two back panels, a center back zipper closure, and a one-piece set-on waistband with a button closure at each end at the center back opening. An ID pocket shall be positioned at the waistband between the right front and lining. The skirt shall have a center back pleat. The bottom edge of the skirt shall be overedged. As an alternate, the bottom edge may be pinked.

3.5 Figures. When inconsistencies exist between the written specification and figures 1 through 4, the written specification shall govern. The formation of the zipper closure shall conform to the requirements as specified in figure 3. The formation of the kick pleat and the ID pocket shall conform to the requirements as specified in figure 4.

3.6 Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished by the Government (see 6.2). Government patterns show size and directional lines for cutting and are marked or notched for the proper placement and assembly of component parts. The directional lines indicate the warp direction of the cloth unless otherwise indicated on the patterns. The list of pattern parts and computer nomenclature in 3.6.1 is provided to ensure that the pattern set provided is complete. The Government patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall only be used for cutting the contractor’s working patterns. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns, except that additional notching, if needed to facilitate manufacture, is permitted on the contractor’s working patterns. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary to accommodate the manufacturer’s processes and the use of automated equipment, provided the modifications do not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in the document or those governed by the Government pattern.

3.6.1 Pattern parts. Component parts shall be cut from the materials specified in accordance with the number of parts specified in table IV and table V.

TABLE IV. Pattern parts – type I skirt.

Material Nomenclature Pattern abbreviation Cut parts

Basic material

(3.3.1)

Back shell 29429-BACK_SHELL_I 2

Side front shell 29429-SIDE_FRONT_S_I 2

Center front shell 29429-CNTR_FRNT_S_I 1

Waistband shell 29429-WAISTBAND_SH 1

Zipper placket shell 29429-ZPPR_PLCKT_S 1

ID pocket shell 29429-ID_POCKET_SH 1

Lining

(3.3.2)

Back lining 29429-BACK_LINING I 2

Front lining 29429-FRONT_LINING I 1

Interfacing

(3.3.3) Waistband interfacing 1/ 29429-WAISTBAND_INT 1

1/ As an alternate, the waistband interfacing may be cut from a fusible interfacing (3.3.3.1).

TABLE V. Pattern parts – type II skirt.

Material Nomenclature Pattern abbreviation Cut parts

Basic material

(3.3.1)

Back shell 29429-BACK_SHELL_II 2

Side front shell 29429-SDE_FRNT_SH_II 2

Center front shell 29429-CNTR_FRNT_S_II 1

Waistband shell 29429-WAISTBAND_SH 1

Zipper placket shell 29429-ZPPR_PLCKT_S 1

ID pocket shell 29429-ID_POCKET_SH 1

Lining

(3.3.2)

Back lining 29429-BACK_LINING II 2

Front lining 29429-FRONT_LINING II 1

Interfacing

(3.3.3) Waistband interfacing 1/ 29429-WAISTBAND_INT 1

1/ As an alternate, the waistband interfacing may be cut from a fusible interfacing (3.3.3.1).

3.7 Construction. Construction of the skirt shall conform to the requirements specified in table VI and shall be manufactured in accordance with 3.8.

TABLE VI. Construction requirements.

Construction feature Requirement

1. Thread

a. Thread type and size (1) Table III.

b. Thread tension (1) Maintained so that there is no tight, loose, or unbalanced stitching.

c. Thread shade on outside of skirt

(1) Consistent thread shade on the outside of the skirt. Multiple shades of thread on the outside of the skirt are not allowed.

d. Thread breaks

(all stitch types)

(1) Secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch.

(2) If 401 stitch type, repaired using 301 stitch type.

2. Stitches and Seams

a. Stitch and seam types (1) ASTM D6193.

b. Stitches per inch (1) See 3.8.

c. 401 or 101 stitch type (1) Loops of the chain finish on the inside of the skirt.

d. Overedging (1) Knife set to trim the loose threads and raveled edge without cutting the material.

e. Seams and seam allowances (1) Maintained with seam uniformly sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers, gathers, other distortions, or open seams result.

f. Beginning and ending of seams

(1) Start and finish evenly.

g. Joined components (1) Lie smooth and flat.

h. Ends of seams and stitching

– 301 stitch type

(1) If not caught in another line of stitching: backstitched not less than 1/4 inch.

(2) If the end of a continuous line of stitching (except label): overlapped not less than 1/2 inch.

(3) If label stitching: overlapped not less than 3 stitches.

i. Skipped stitches

(301 or 401)

(1) Repaired by using 301 stitch type.

j. Edge, raise, or topstitching (1) Positioned 1/16 inch from the edge.

k. Additional bastings (1) Acceptable provided the basting thread does not show on the outside of the finished item.

l. Pinking (1) Minimum of 5 teeth per inch, minimum 1/8-inch depth. Maximum

1/16-inch reduction of any seam allowance or bottom edge due to pinking.

3.8 Manufacturing operations requirements. The skirt shall be made in accordance with table VII. Following the exact sequence of operations is not required, provided the finished skirts meet the finished form, fit, and function requirements as those produced by following the sequence of operations specified in table VII. Any additional underpressing to facilitate manufacture is permissible.

TABLE VII. Manufacturing operations.

Operation Requirements Seam allowance

Stitch type

Seam type

Stitches per inch

1. CUTTING AND MARKING

a. Cutting

(1) Components cut as indicated by Government patterns from the material specified in table IV or table V.

(2) All components of the shell cut from one piece of basic material. The placket may be cut from ends.

(3) All components of the lining cut from one piece of lining material.

Note: The back lining may be cut on the selvage edge.

b. Replacing defective parts

(1) Defective or damaged components replaced.

c. Shade marking

(1) All components cut from one piece of basic material marked, ticketed, or bundled to ensure uniform shade and size throughout.

- - - - (2) Any method of shade marking may be used except: (a) corrosive metal fastening devices,

(b) sewn-on shade tickets, or (c) adhesive type tickets that leave traces of paper or adhesive on material after the removal of the tickets.

2. SHELL CONSTRUCTION

a. Shell:

edge finishing

(1) Center front panel overedged.

501, 503, or 504 EFd-1 8-10 (2) Side front panels overedged.

(3) Back panels overedged.

(4) Alternate for bottom edge only: Pinked. - - - -

b. Shell:

joining seams

(1) Side front joined to center front. 3/4 inch

301 SSa-1 12-14

(2) Side seams joined and back seam joined, starting below zipper notch and finishing at pleat.

1 inch

(3) Waistband and ID pocket attached. 3/8 inch

c. Shell:

darts

(1) Tapered to a point at the lower end, without gathers, pleats, or puckers.

- 301 OSf-1 12–14

TABLE VII. Manufacturing operations – Continued.

Operation Requirements Seam allowance

Stitch type

Seam type

Stitches per inch

2. SHELL CONSTRUCTION – CONTINUED

d. Shell:

kick pleat

(1) See figure 4.

(2) Finishes left over right, as worn.

(3) Overedge finished, or, as an alternate, the edge may be taped from the top of the curve to the bottom of the kick pleat.

501 or

503; 301

(alternate)

EFd-1;

Bsa-1 (alternate)

8-10;

12-14 (alternate)

(4) Formed with a diagonal row of stitching as indicated on pattern, 2-3/4±1/8 inches long, positioned from the center back seam at the top of the kick pleat to the edge of the width of the kick pleat, slanted downward 1/2 inch over the total length. Backtacked along existing stitching for 1/2 to 1 inch.

- 301 Ssa-1 12-14

(5) With the kick pleat turned to the finished position, row of stitching superimposed on the previous kick pleat stitch line through all plies.

- 301 Ssa-1 12-14

e. Shell:

ID pocket

(1) See figure 4. - - - -

(2) ID pocket constructed of one piece of basic material.

3/8 inch 516 Ssa-1 8-10

(3) Pocket positioned with the notch of the pocket on the right portion of the center front panel (as worn), 1 inch in from the center front and side front joining seam. Stitched, notched, turned, and raise stitched 1/16 inch from the folded edge though the seam allowance and pocket. Pocket hangs between the shell and lining.

- 301 LSq-2(a) and (b) 12-14

(4) Vertical 3/8- to 1/2-inch long and

1/8±1/32-inch wide bartack placed across each end of the pocket opening, perpendicular to the pocket opening, with the bottom edge of the bartack finishing at the raise stitching.

21-28 stitches per bartack

(5) Finished opening: 4 to 4-1/8 inches wide between bartacks.

(6) Finished depth: 4 to 4 1/8 inches from fold to waistband.

Operation Requirements Seam allowance

Stitch type

Seam type

Stitches per inch

2. SHELL CONSTRUCTION – CONTINUED

f. Shell:

Placket and zipper

(1) See figure 3.

- - - - (2) Placket and zipper lie smooth and flat, and the stitching does not interfere with the operation of the zipper.

(3) Placket folded in half lengthwise and overedged.

503 or

EFd-1 8-10

(4) Edge of right and left back of shell folded under 1 inch according to notch on pattern.

(5) Right side of zipper tape positioned on the placket 5/8 to 3/4 inch from the folded edge, with the top of the chain 1/2 inch below the top raw edge, and secured with a single row of stitching 3/16 to 1/4 inch from the chain edge through the tape and both plies of the placket.

- 301 SSak-1 12-14

(6) Left half of the zipper tape positioned on the inside left side of the shell at the back opening, with the top of the chain 1/2 inch below the top raw edge and the chain positioned even with the creased front edge of the back opening. Row of stitching extends from the top raw edge of the back panel to 1/4 to 1/8 inch below the chain, 5/16 inch from the center edge of the back opening.

(7) Right back of the placket assembly joined with a 5/16- to 3/8-inch seam from the folded edge of the right back opening through the zipper tape and placket.

- 301 LSah-1 12-14

(8) Bottom end of the opening topstitched through the placket and zipper tape. The stitching does not extend past the finished stitching of each side opening.

- 301 SSv-1 12-14

(9) Finished appearance: Folds of the skirt placket shall cover the zipper when closed and measure 5/16 to 3/8 inch from the folded edge to the stitch line.

Operation Requirements Seam allowance

Stitch type

Seam type

Stitches per inch

3. LINING CONSTRUCTION

a. Lining:

edge finishing

(1) Seam allowances and bottom edge of the front and back panels overedged. - 501, 503, or 504 EFd-1 8-10

b. Lining:

edge finishing

(alternate)

(1) Seam allowances and bottom edge of the front and back panels pinked.

c. Lining:

darts

(1) Tapered to a point at the lower end, without gathers, pleats, or puckers.

- 301 OSf-1 12–14

d. Lining:

joining seams

(1) Center back seam joined from the bottom zipper mark to the top of the kick pleat. 1 inch 301 SSa-1 12-14

(2) Side seams joined.

(3) Seam allowances face the inside of the shell in the finished skirt.

e. Lining:

kick pleat

(1) See figure 4.

- - - - (2) Finishes left over right.

(3) Overedge finished.

(4) Formed with a diagonal row of stitching

2-3/4±1/8 inches long, positioned from the center back seam at the top of the kick pleat to the folded edge of the kick pleat, slanted downward 1/2 inch over the total length.

Backtacked along existing stitching for 1/2 to 1 inch. - 301 SSa-1 12-14

(5) Additional row of stitching superimposed on previous kickpleat stitchline through all plies, with kickpleat turned to the finished position.

(6) Alternate: The back edge of the kick pleat may be stitched together to form a modesty pleat.

f. Lining:

back opening

(1) See figure 3.

- - - - (2) Edge of right and left back lining folded under 1 inch to the inside, according to notch on the pattern.

(3) Back opening formed by stitching 3/4 inch from the folded edge from the top edge of the lining to 1/4 inch below the center back seam, across the seam allowances, and back up to the top of the lining, 3/4 inch from the folded edge.

- 301 EFa-1 12-14

Operation Requirements Seam allowance

Stitch type

Seam type

Stitches per inch

4. LINING AND WAISTBAND ATTACHMENT TO SHELL

a. Join lining to shell

(1) Joined at the waist, matching at the side seams.

1/4 inch 301 SSa-1 12-14

(2) Back opening does not overlap the zipper.

(3) Right back lining finishes 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the folded edge of the placket.

(4) Left back lining finishes 3/8 to 1/2 inch from the folded edge of the back opening.

b. Waistband

(1) See figure 1 (type I) and figure 2 (type II).

- - - - (2) Underside interfaced with sewn-in interfacing or fusible alternate.

(3) Inside raw edge overedged. - 501 or

EFd-1 8-10

(4) Finishes 1-1/4±1/8 inches wide. - - - -

(5) Seamed ends and upper and lower edges of the waistband topstitched.

1/16 inch from edge

SSe-2

(a&b) &

OSf-1

12-14

(6) Pointed end (the left side as worn) extends

1-1/2±1/8 inches past the center back (zipper teeth).

(7) Squared end (the right side as worn) extends

2±1/8 inches beyond the back opening (zipper teeth).

(8) When buttoned, the button engages with the eyelet end of the buttonhole, with the waistband smooth and flat without gathers, puckers, pleats, or other distortion.

c. Hanger loops

(1) Braid caught in the waistband stitching on the inside, forming a 1-1/4- to 1-1/2-inch long loop at each side seam, measured from the bottom edge of the waistband to the folded end of the loop.

- 301 SSa-1 12-14

d. Labels

(1) Upper edge of each label caught in the waistband seam on the inside. Inscription is visible inside the skirt. Stitch line does not go through the printing.

(2) The combination identification and instruction label and the size label are centered inside on the right back panel (as worn) and caught in waistband. The labels face the wearer.

- 301 SSa-1 12-14

Operation Requirements Seam allowance

Stitch type Seam type

Stitches per inch

5. FINISHING

a. Button-holes

(1) One horizontal, eyelet-end, taper-bar buttonhole, finished cut length 3/4 inch long, positioned through the center of the pointed end of the waistband.

- Buttonhole -

52-54 per buttonhole including tack

(2) One horizontal, eyelet-end, taper-bar buttonhole, finished cut length 3/4 inch long, positioned through the center of the squared end of the waistband.

(3) Inside purled edge of the eyelet finishes 1/2 to

5/8 inch from the finished ends of the waistband.

(4) Clean cut, well worked over gimp, with the stitching securely caught in the material and the gimp pulled to the underside.

(5) Purling finishes on the outside of the waistband for the buttonhole at the pointed end of the waistband and on the inside of the waistband for the buttonhole at the square end of the waistband.

b. Buttons

(1) One 27-line button securely sewn on the outside of the waistband through all plies to engage the buttonhole at the pointed end.

Hand or 101 or

4-6 per buttonhole

(double thread) or 14-16

(2) One 27-line button securely sewn on the inside of the waistband to engage the buttonhole at the squared end. Stitching is not to be visible on the outside.

(3) Thread ends of hand-sewn buttons securely tacked.

c. Cleaning

(1) All thread ends trimmed and loose threads removed.

- - - - (2) Basting threads pulled and removed.

(3) Any spots, stains, shade tickets, or markings removed without injury to the material.

d. Pressing

(1) Shell and lining joining seams pressed open and flat.

(2) Shell and lining center back seams pressed to the right.

(3) Darts pressed smooth and flat with the inside folded edge pressed towards the center of the lining.

(4) Entire skirt (shell and lining) pressed smooth, removing press marks and any gloss marks.

3.9 Finished dimensions. The finished skirts shall conform to the measurements shown in table VIII and table IX, as defined in table X, when measured as specified in 4.4.4. Dimensions and tolerances are expressed in inches.

TABLE VIII. Type I skirt – finished measurements.

Size Waist

(A)

Seat

(B)

Shell length (C) Lining length (D)

Short Regular Long Short Regular Long

X0 22-1/2 34-1/2 26 27-1/2 29 23-3/4 25-1/4 26-3/4

2 23-1/2 35-1/2 26-1/8 27-5/8 29-1/8 23-7/8 25-3/8 26-7/8

4 24-1/2 36-1/2 26-1/4 27-3/4 29-1/4 24 25-1/2 27

6 25-1/2 37-1/2 26-3/8 27-7/8 29-3/8 24-1/8 25-5/8 27-1/8

8 27 39 26-1/2 28 29-1/2 24-1/4 25-3/4 27-1/4

10 28-1/2 40-1/2 26-5/8 28-1/8 29-5/8 24-3/8 25-7/8 27-3/8

12 30 42 26-3/4 28-1/4 29-3/4 24-1/2 26 27-1/2

14 32 44 26-7/8 28-3/8 29-7/8 24-5/8 26-1/8 27-5/8

16 34 46 27 28-1/2 30 24-3/4 26-1/4 27-3/4

18 36 48 27-1/8 28-5/8 30-1/8 24-7/8 26-3/8 27-7/8

Tolerance ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2

TABLE IX. Type II skirt – finished measurements.

Size Waist

(A)

Seat

(B)

Shell length (C) Lining length (D)

Short Regular Long Short Regular Long

X0 22-1/2 34-1/2 42-1/4 43-3/4 45-1/4 38-1/4 39-3/4 41-1/4

2 23-1/2 35-1/2 42-3/8 43-7/8 45-3/8 38-3/8 39-7/8 41-3/8

4 24-1/2 36-1/2 42-1/2 44 45-1/2 38-1/2 40 41-1/2

6 25-1/2 37-1/2 42-5/8 44-1/8 45-5/8 38-5/8 40-1/8 41-5/8

8 27 39 42-3/4 44-1/4 45-3/4 38-3/4 40-1/4 41-3/4

10 28-1/2 40-1/2 42-7/8 44-3/8 45-7/8 38-7/8 40-3/8 41-7/8

12 30 42 43 44-1/2 46 39 40-1/2 42

14 32 44 43-1/8 44-5/8 46-1/8 39-1/8 40-5/8 42-1/8

16 34 46 43-1/4 44-3/4 46-1/4 39-1/4 40-3/4 42-1/4

18 36 48 43-3/8 44-7/8 46-3/8 39-3/8 40-7/8 42-3/8

Tolerance ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2

TABLE X. Methods of measure.

Letter Measurement Method 1/

A Waist Twice the measurement straight across from folded edge to folded edge at the center of the waistband.

B Seat Twice the measurement straight across from folded edge to folded edge of the skirt, 7 inches down from the lower edge of the waistband at the center back.

C Shell length At the center front from the lower edge of the waistband to the bottom edge of the unhemmed shell.

D Lining length At the center front from the lower edge of the waistband to the bottom edge of the unhemmed lining with the skirt turned inside out.

1/ Skirt laid flat with the zipper closed and the waistband buttoned.

3.10 Workmanship. Each finished skirt shall conform to the quality of product established by this document.

Defects shall not exceed the established maximum acceptable point values (see 6.2) and shall not adversely affect the serviceability, appearance, and uniformity of the product.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article inspection. The first article inspection, in accordance with 3.1.1, shall be examined in accordance with 4.4.1 through 4.4.4 for compliance with the design, configuration, workmanship, dimensional requirements, and testing as specified in this document.

4.2.1 First article samples and acceptance criteria. Unless otherwise specified in the contract (see 6.2), first article samples shall be provided. The sample size shall be as specified (see 6.2). The sample unit shall be one finished skirt. The lot size shall be expressed in units of skirts. The presence of excessive defects or failure of any testing (see 6.2) shall be cause for rejection of the first article.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the contract (see 6.2), conformance inspection, in accordance with 3.1.2, shall consist of the examinations and tests as specified in 4.4.1 through 4.4.4.

4.3.1 Component and material sampling and acceptance criteria. Unless otherwise specified in referenced documents or procurement documents (see 6.2), component and material sampling shall be in accordance with table XI. The component lot shall be unacceptable if one or more sample units fail to meet any test requirements specified in this document (see 6.2).

TABLE XI. Component and material sampling.

Lot size Sample size (sample unit)

800 or less 2

801 through 22,000 3

22,001 and over 5

The unit for expressing lot size and sample unit shall be in accordance with the applicable referenced documents.

For the lining, the lot size shall be expressed as yards, and the sample unit for testing shall be 3 yards, full width.

4.3.2 End item sampling and acceptance criteria. Unless otherwise specified in the contract (see 6.2), sampling for inspection shall be performed for dress (D) skirts in accordance with the provisions of MIL-STD-1609. The sample shall be one finished skirt. The lot size shall be expressed in units of skirts. The presence of excessive defects or failure of any testing as specified (see 6.2) shall be cause for rejection of the lot.

4.4 Inspection methods.

4.4.1 Component and material examinations and tests. In accordance with 4.1, components and materials shall be examined and tested in accordance with the specified examinations and tests referenced in table XII and table XIII, unless otherwise excluded, amended, or modified in this document or applicable procurement documents

(see 6.2).

TABLE XII. Component and material verification.

Material Requirement Verification

Basic material – class 1 and 2 skirts 3.3.1 MIL-DTL-10176

Basic material – class 3 skirts 3.3.1 MC/PD 08-12 SYSCOM

Basic material – class 3 skirts

(alternate)

3.3.1 MC/PD 07-12 SYSCOM

Basic material – class 4 skirts 3.3.1 MIL-DTL-21115

Lining 3.3.2 As listed in table XIII

Interfacing 3.3.3 A-A-52106

Alternate fusible interfacing 3.3.3.1 MIL-C-44296

Hanger braid 3.3.4 MIL-DTL-371

Kick pleat binding (alternate) 3.3.5 MIL-T-5237

Threads 3.3.6 Per specific thread specification listed in table III

Thread, shade 3.3.6 Visual 1/

Buttons 3.3.7 A-A-59994

Buttons, shade 3.3.7 Visual 1/

Zipper 3.3.8 A-A-55634

Zipper tape, shade 3.3.8 Visual 1/

Labels 3.3.9.1, 3.3.9.2, 3.3.9.3

MIL-DTL-32075

1/ Results recorded as pass or fail.

TABLE XIII. Lining verification.

Characteristic Requirement Verification

Shade 3.3.2 Visual 1/

Fiber identification 3.3.2 AATCC TM20A

Yarns per inch: warp and filling 3.3.2 ASTM D3775

Weight 3.3.2 ASTM D3776/D3776M

Breaking strength

3.3.2 ASTM D5034 Dry: warp and filling

Wet: warp and filling

Colorfastness to perspiration

3.3.2 AATCC TM15

Color change

Staining on cotton

Staining on wool

Colorfastness to drycleaning

3.3.2 AATCC TM132

Color change

Staining on cotton

Staining on wool

Colorfastness to crocking 3.3.2 AATCC TM8

Dimensional stability to drycleaning 3.3.2 AATCC TM158

1/ Results recorded as pass or fail.

4.4.2 In-process examination. Visual and dimensional examinations shall be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to determine whether construction details, which cannot be examined in the finished product, are in accordance with the requirements specified in section 3. Materials and components which contain defects and damages, as defined in the visual examination of 4.4.3, shall be removed from production. Any in-process nonconformance remaining in the finished skirt shall be classified as a defect in accordance with the visual examination of 4.4.3.

4.4.3 Visual examination. Sampling and visual examination of the end item for defects in color, design, materials, construction, workmanship, and marking shall be performed in accordance with the provisions for dress (D) skirts of MIL-STD-1609 (see 6.2).

4.4.4 Dimensional examination. The skirts shall be examined for conformance to the dimensions specified in table VIII and table IX, when measured in accordance with table X, in accordance with the provisions of

MIL-STD-1609 (see 6.2).

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of materiel is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or

Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The skirts are intended for wear by female personnel of the United States Marine Corps.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number, and date of this specification.

b. NSNs.

c. Types, classes, sizes and lengths required (see 1.2).

d. When first article inspection is required (see 3.1.1).

e. When conformance inspection is required (see 3.1.2).

f. Applicable Government patterns (see 3.6).

g. Maximum acceptable point values and visual inspection conditions (see 3.10 and 4.4.3).

h. Maximum acceptable point value and dimensional examination (see 3.10 and 4.4.4).

i. First article sampling and acceptance criteria (see 4.2.1).

j. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

k. Component and material sampling and acceptance criteria (see 4.3.1).

l. End item sampling and acceptance criteria (see 4.3.2).

m. Component and material examination and tests (see 4.4.1).

n. Packaging requirements (see 5.1).

6.3 Information requests. For access to information such as specifications, patterns, drawings, and standard shade samples of cloth, go to http://www.dla.mil/TroopSupport/ClothingandTextiles/SpecRequest.aspx for the

Defense Logistics Agency Troop Support’s Clothing and Textile Specification/Pattern/Drawing Request form.

Complete the request form and then submit the form. Requests to use equivalent materials or components or to make changes to the pattern should be sent to the contracting officer for approval by the military service.

6.4 Supersession data. This specification supersedes MIL-S-29429B, dated 1 June 1994, MIL-DTL-32021(MC), dated 13 February 1998, and MIL-DTL-82126D(MC), dated 8 October 1998.

6.5 Classification correlation data. Table XIV shows the correlation between the skirt classifications in the superseded documents and the skirt classification in this document.

TABLE XIV. Classification correlation.

Classification in accordance with superseded document

New classification per

MIL-DTL-29429C

Document Item Type Class Type Class

MIL-S-29429B Short Length, Green - 1 I 1

MIL-S-29429B Short Length, Blue - 2 I 2

MIL-DTL-32021(MC) Short Length, White - - I 3

MIL-DTL-82126D(MC) Short Length, Black, Evening Dress, Staff and Non-Commissioned Officers

I - I 4

MIL-DTL-82126D(MC) Long Length, Black, Evening Dress, Officers

II - II 4

http://www.dla.mil/TroopSupport/ClothingandTextiles/SpecRequest.aspx

6.6 Solution-dyed acetate lining material. A solution-dyed acetate lining material is recommended to meet the specified colorfastness requirements (see 3.3.2).

6.7 Thread shade. The cable numbers from the obsolete DoD Standard Color Card for Sewing Threads listed in table XV are recommended to meet the shade match requirements (see 3.3.5).

TABLE XV. Cable numbers.

Fabric shade Recommended thread shade

Green 2212 Olive drab T-1, Cable No. 66023

Dark Blue 2312 Black AA, Cable No. 66023

White 2415 White AD, Cable No. 66049

Black 2607 Black AA, Cable No. 66023

6.8 NSNs. For informational purposes only, NSNs that correspond to type I, class 1 and 2 of this specification are listed in table XVI. Table XVI is not intended to be a comprehensive list of all NSNs associated with this specification.

TABLE XVI. NSNs.

Type Class Size Length NSN

I 1 12 R 8410-01-413-4918

I 2 12 R 8410-01-413-2795

6.9 Subject term (key word) listing.

Dress

Enlisted

Evening

Female

Marine Corps

Officer

Service

Uniform

6.10 Amendment notations. The margins of this specification are marked with vertical lines to indicate modifications generated by this amendment. This was done as a convenience only and the Government assumes no liability whatsoever for any inaccuracies in these notations. Bidders and contractors are cautioned to evaluate the requirements of this document based on the entire content irrespective of the marginal notations.

Front Back

Inside front

FIGURE 1. Front, back, and inside front views, type I.

Front Back

Inside front

FIGURE 2. Front, back, and inside front views, type II.

Inside back view

Zipper closure

FIGURE 3. Inside back view and zipper closure, type I and II.

ID pocket

FIGURE 4. Inside kick pleat and ID pocket, type I and II.

CONCLUDING MATERIAL

Custodian: Preparing activity:

Navy – MC Navy – MC

(Project 8410-2020-002)

Review activity:

DLA – CT

NOTE: The activities listed above were interested in this document as of the date of this document. Since organizations and responsibilities can change, you should verify the currency of the information above using the

ASSIST Online database at https://assist.dla.mil.

https://assist.dla.mil/