Attachment_4_-_CG_PD_11-05C_Hat_Combination_Woman's_4-18-16.pdf

INCH-POUND

CG/PD 11-05C

18 April 2016

SUPERCEDING

CG/PD 11-05B

27 July 2015

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

HAT, COMBINATION, WOMAN’S (COAST GUARD)

This document is approved for use by all departments and agencies of the Department of Homeland

Security.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for a hat frame ensemble, consisting of a hat frame;

a band with mount; and a detachable cover.

1.2 Classification. The hat frame, hat cover, and hat band procured as an ensemble or hat covers separately, shall be in the following types and sizes as specified (see 6.2).

Type I Enlisted personnel

Type II Officer personnel (LCDR and below)

Type III Officer personnel (CDR and above)

Type IV Hat cover

Class 1 Cloth, Polyester, White

Schedule of sizes

20; 20 1/2; 21; 21 1/2; 22; 22 1/2; 23; 23 1/2; and 24

Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: U.S. Coast Guard, Clothing Design and Technical

Office, 10 General Greene Ave, Natick, MA 01760.

AMSC N/A FSC 8410

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT. Approved for distribution release, distribution is unlimited.

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 Government documents.

2.1.1 Specification, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards and handbooks from a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and

Standards.

SPECIFICATIONS

FEDERAL

A-A-52094 Thread, Cotton

A-A-50186 Cloth, Buckram, Woven and Non-Woven

MILITARY

MIL-C-368 Cloth, Satin Rayon, and Cloth Twill Rayon

MIL-DTL-823 Cloth, Serge, Wool, Wool and Nylon, Polyester and Wool

MIL-DTL-32075 Label, Clothing, Equipage, Tentage

MIL-B-3461 Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform Cap

MIL-E-17568 Embroidery Materials, Metallic and Synthetic Metallic

MIL-C-87052 Cloth, Twill, Polyester, White

MIL-C-87074 Cloth, Twill, Acetate

FEDERAL

FED-STD-595 Colors Used in Government Procurement

MILITARY

A-A-50199 Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester Covered

A-A-55621 Fasteners, Snap, Style 3 Pronged Ring Head Type (16 Ligne)

A-A-52108 Cloth, Interlining, Cotton and Synthetic, or Synthetic

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

CDTO-PD-208-10 Strap, Chin

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch/ or from the

Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Street, Philadelphia, PA 19111-9054.)

2.1.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation.

2.2 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted shall be those listed in the issues of the DODISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2).

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ASQ Z1.4 Sample Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies of this document are available online at http://www.asq.org or from American Society for Quality, P.O. Box 3005, Milwaukee, WI 53201-3005.)

THE COLOR ASSOCIATION OF THE UNITED STATES

Department of Defense Standard Shades for Sewing Threads

(Applications for copies are available online at http://www.colorassociation.com or from The Color

Association of the United States, 33 Whitehall Street, Suite M3. New York, NY 10004.)

THE AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS

AATCC 8 Colorfastness to Crocking

AATCC 15 Colorfastness to Perspiration

AATCC 20 Fiber Analysis of Textiles

AATCC 81 PH of the Water-extracted from Bleached Textiles

AATCC 107 Colorfastness to Water

AATCC111 Weather Resistance: Sunshine Arc Lam Exposure with Wetting

AATCC 132 Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://www.aatcc.org/ or from American Association of

Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS

ASTM-D256 Standard Test Methods for Determining the Izod Pendulum Impact Resistance of

Plastics

ASTM-D542 Standard Test Method for Index of Refraction of Transparent Organic Plastics

ASTM-D570 Standard Test Method for Water Absorption of Plastics

ASTM-D638 Standard Test Method for Tensile Properties of Plastic

ASTM-D646 Pater and Paperboard (Mass Weight per Unit Area) Grammage

ASTM-D648 Standard Test Method for Deflection Temperature of Plastics Under Flexural Load in the Edgewise Position

ASTM-D747 Plastic Test Standard – Apparent Bending Modulus

ASTM-D751 Standard Test Methods for Coated Fabrics

ASTM-D792 Standard Test Methods for Density and Specific Gravity (Relative Density) of

Plastics by Displacement

ASTM-D1003 Standard Test Method for Haze and Luminous Transmittance of Transparent Plastics

ASTM-D1117 Fabrics, Evaluating Nonwoven

ASTM-D1424 Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabric by Falling-Pendulum Type

(Elmendorf) Apparatus

ASTM-D1777 Standard Test Method for Thickness of Textile Materials

ASTM-D2288 Standard Test Methods for Weigh Loss of Plasticizers on Heating

ASTM-D3775 Standard Test Method for Fabric Count of Woven Fabric

ASTM-D3776 Standard Test Methods for Mass per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric

ASTM-D3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textiles-Constant-Rate-of-Transverse (CRT)

Ball Burst Test

ASTM-D5034 Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics

(GRAB Test)

ASTM-D6193 Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

ASTM-D2240 Standard Test Method for Rubber Property-Durometer Hardness

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://www.astm.org/ or from American Society for

Testing and Materials, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959.)

2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Guide sample. Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see

6.3). Variations from this specification may appear in the sample in which case this specification shall govern.

3.2 First article. When specified the contractor shall furnish sample unit(s) for first article inspection and approval (see 4.3 and 6.2).

3.3 Material.

3.3.1 Hat frames.

3.3.1.1 Cloth, polyester/wool serge. The polyester/wool serge cloth used for the brim, band, mount and band streamer pieces shall conform to the Type III, Class 3, of MIL-DTL-823. The material shall be dyed to match CG Blue 3362.

3.3.1.2 Cloth, interlining. The interlining cloth used for the crown pieces and brim reinforcement pieces shall conform to Type II or MIL-C-43920.

3.3.1.3 Cloth, rayon. The rayon cloth used for the crown lining piece shall conform to Class 1 of MIL-C-

368. Acetate twill conforming to MIL-C-87074 may be used as an alternate material. When the alternate lining is used, the yarn size may be 100 denier warp X 150 denier filling, 100 percent acetate twill polyester and polyester blend, twill or plain weave material. The color shall be black.

3.3.1.4 Felt. The felt material used for the brim interlining piece shall be composed of not less than 30 percent wool and the remaining percentage viscose rayon. The felt material shall be dyed a suitable black shade, and shall conform to the following requirements when tests as specified in 4.4.1.

Characteristic Requirement

Minimum Maximum

Weight, ounces per square yard 7.0 9.0

Thickness, inches 0.040 0.065

Ball bursting strength, pounds 40 -

Stiffness, load pounds:

Initial, lengthwise 0.18 -

Initial, widthwise 0.17 -

After soaking, lengthwise 0.12 -

After soaking, widthwise 0.11 -

3.3.1.4.1 Non-fibrous materials. The starch and protein content, including chloroform-soluble and water-soluble material of the finished felt, shall not be less than 10 percent or more than 20 percent when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.3.1.5 Cloth, buckram, cotton. The cotton buckram used for the brim interlining piece shall be white, bleached, or unbleached, plain weave, woven with 2-ply cotton yarns and conforming to A-A-50186, and treated with a water repellent resin finish. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.1.

Minimum Maximum

Weight, ounces per square yard (before water repellent finish)

6.4 6.8

Yarns per inch:

Warp 20 -

Filling 16 -

Characteristic - CONTINUED Requirement

Minimum Maximum

Stiffness, bending moment, inch-pound:

Warp 0.103 0.118

Filling 0.095 0.110

3.3.1.6 Sweatband. The sweatband shall be made of a plain rib weave grosgrain ribbon consisting of a rayon warp and cotton filling with a woven edge. No loading agents shall be used. The sweatband ribbon shall be dyed blue, approximation the shade of the brim material. The finished sweatband shall conform to the following requirements when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

Minimum Maximum

Weight, ounces per linear yard 0.17 0.21

Width, inches 13/16 15/16

Thread count:

Full width 122 -

Filling 30 -

PH 5.5 8.5

Colorfastness to:

Crocking Good -

Wet-dry cleaning Good -

Perspiration Good -

3.3.1.7 Thread. The thread for seaming and stitching the hat frame shall be either cotton conforming to

Types IC1 and IC2, applicable, Ticket Numbers 0 and 00, 3-ply of A-A-52094; or a cotton or rayon covered polyester thread conforming to Sixe Number 50 of A-A-50199. The thread used for the hat frame and hat band operations shall be dyed to match Navy Blue AT; Cable No. 66060. For all other stitching operations, excluding basting operations, the thread shall be of a white or natural shade (White AH, Cable

No. 66050 or Natural White AG, Cable No. 66049). The thread used for basting shall be at the option of the contractor. All cable numbers shall conform to the Department of Defense Color Card or Official

Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads.

3.3.1.7.1 Colorfastness. The dyed thread shall show fastness to light, wet-dry cleaning, and perspiration equal to or better than the standard sample. As a limit of acceptability or who no standard sample is available, the dyed thread shall show a minimum of “good” fastness to light, wet-dry cleaning, and perspiration, when tested as specified in A-A-52094 or A-A-50199, as applicable.

3.3.1.8 Stay material. The stay material used in the construction of the insignia mounts for the hat band, shall be of a flexible paperboard which has been impregnated with a minimum of 15 percent inert mineral filler. The paperboard shall be made of a cellulosic fiber, and shall finish with a thickness of 0.025 (=/-

0.0001) inch and weight 110.0 (+/- 5 percent) pounds per 1,000 square feet. The color shall be black.

Testing shall be performed as specified in 4.4.1.

3.3.1.9 Leatherette. The leatherette used to back hat band insignia mounts shall be made of either a fabric or paper base conforming to the requirements specified in 3.3.1.9.1 and 3.3.1.9.2.

3.3.1.9.1 Fabric base. The leatherette shall be made of any suitable woven or knitted cotton material, vinyl coated, black in color and embossed with a simulated leather effect on one side only. The fabric shall have a finished weight of not less than 14 ounces per square yard, and shall show a minimum of “good” fastness to crocking and water. Testing shall be performed as specified in 4.4.1.

3.3.1.9.2 Paper base. The leatherette shall consist of a polyvinyl chloride film bonded or laminated to a latex impregnated (30-35 percent by weight) cellulose pulp board sheet with a suitable adhesive. The polyvinyl chloride film shall be black in color, embossed on one side only, with a finished thickness of

0.009 (+/- 0.0005) inches. In addition, the polyvinyl chloride film shall show a minimum of “good” fastness to crocking and water. The latex impregnated pulp board sheet shall have a finished thickness of

0.030 (+/- 0.0015) inches. Testing shall be performed as specified in 4.4.1.

3.3.1.10 Plastic lining. The clear plastic sheeting used for the top crown lining piece shall be cellulose acetate processed from virgin cellulose acetate polymer, appropriately plasticized, without the addition of dyes or pigments, with a high polish finish with surface smoothness that is mirror-like. Clean cellulose acetate scrap from the manufacturing process may be reworked provided it is blended with the same type of material. The use of cellulose diacetate or triacetate is acceptable, but they shall not be blended together.

The sheeting shall have a nominal thickness of 0.0075 inches and be crack resistant at minus 20°F. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.1. The material shall be free from warpage, cracks, scratches, and other defects that affect the appearance or that might affect the serviceability. In general, the cellulose acetate polymer will degrade (decompose) in the presence of fairly concentrated acids and bases. Softening, swelling or dissolution will occur when cellulose acetate is exposed to polar solvents suck as ketones and esters. As a result, it is not recommended to use cellulose acetate where contact with these types of materials may occur.

3.3.1.10.1 Plastic lining material thickness. The nominal dimensions and tolerances for the material thickness shall be as specified in the following table:

Nominal Thickness Inch (cm) Minimum Inch (cm) Maximum Inch (cm)

.0075 (.019) .0065 (.0165) .0085 (.0216)

3.3.1.10.2 Plastic lining physical and mechanical properties. The physical and mechanical properties of the cellulose acetate material shall be as specified in the following table:

Property Material Test Method

Refractive index, 23°C:

Minimum

Maximum

1.485

1.495

1/

Specific gravity, 23°/23°C (73.4°/ 73.4°F):

Minimum

Maximum

1.27

1.34

2/

Haze, maximum % 5.0 3/

Water absorption:

Weight gain plus soluble matter loss, maximum %

Soluble matter loss, maximum %

5.5

1.0

4/

Flammability, maximum:

Over .050 in. thick, in. per minute

(Over .1270 cm. thick, cm. per minute)

3.0

(7.6)

5/

Deflection temperature at 264 psi (1.82 MPa) fiber stress:

Minimum:

°C

°F

6/

Property Material Test Method

Tensile strength, minimum psi (MPa) 5000 (34.5) 7/

Elongation at rupture, minimum percent 25 7/

Impact strength, Izod minimum ft-lbf per inch (Joules per meter)

At 23°C (73.4°F)

At -40°C (-40°F)

1.4 (74.2)

.25 (13.3)

8/

1/ Refractive index. Three specimens shall be tested in accordance with the refractomtric procedure of

ASTM D542. The requirements for this test are applicable only to clear (as manufactured) materials see

3.3.1.10 Results shall be reported numerically to the nearest .001.

2/ Specific gravity. Three specimens shall be tested in accordance with ASTM D792, with results recorded numerically to the nearest .01.

3/ Light transmission and haze. Three specimens shall be tested as specified in ASTM D1003, Procedure

A or B, for light transmission and haze, the results shall be recorded numerically to the nearest .01 percent.

The same specimens shall then be subjected to the accelerated weathering of this, they shall be immersed in distilled water, maintained at a temperature of 23° ± 1.1°C (73.4° ± 2°F) for not more than ten seconds.

The surface moisture shall then be removed by carefully blotting the specimen prior to the determination of parallel light transmission and haze. Rubbing the specimen to remove surface moisture shall not be permitted. The requirements for this test are applicable only to clear (as manufactured) materials with a high polish finish see 3.3.1.10.

4/ Water absortpiton. Three test specimens shall be conditioned 4 hours at 50° ± 3°C (122° ± 5.4°F). The material shall be tested in accordance with the 24 hour immersion procedures of ASTM D570, the results shall be recorded numerically to the nearest .01 percent.

5/ Flammability. Three specimens shall be tested as specified in ASTM D635, results shall be reported numerically to the nearest number 0.1 in./min. (.25 cm/min.).

6/ Deflection temperature. Three specimens shall be tested in accordance with ASTM D648, with the results recorded numerically to the nearest degree.

7/ Tensile strength and elongation. Three specimens shall be tensile tested in accordance with ASTM

D638, with results recorded in psi (MPa). In either case five specimens shall be used and percent elongation shall be determined at break, with results recorded numerically to the nearest percentage.

8/ Impact strength, izod. The impact tests shall be conducted in accordance with Method A or C of ASTM

D256. Five specimens shall be conditioned and tested at 23° ± 1.1°C (73.4° ±2°F), and five additional specimens shall be conditioned for at least 24 hours at -40° ± 2°C (-40° ± 3.6°F) prior to testing at this temperature, with results recorded as follows: .01 ft. lb/in. notch (.53J/m notch).

3.3.1.11 Snap fasteners. The snap fasteners used to secure the band to the frame shall conform to MS-

27982, Finish b, except for the following stud and eyelet dimensions:

a. The overall height of the stud shall be 0.234 (+/- 0.0002) inch and the flange diameter shall be

0.335 (+/- 0.002) inch.

b. The diameter of the stud shall be 0.156 (+/- 0.002) inch.

c. The overall height of the eyelet post shall be 0.335 (+/- 0.002) inch and the flange diameter shall be 0.375 (+/- 0.002) inch.

3.3.1.12 Label. Each hat frame shall have a cloth combination identification and size label conforming to

MIL-DTL-32075, except that the inscription shall be as shown below. The size of the label shall be not more than 1 3/4 inches in height and 2 3/4 inches in length. When Types I and III hat frame are applicable, the inscription shall not include the “Contract No.” and “Stock No.”. The printing on the label shall show a minimum of ”good” fastness to accelerated dry cleaning, and shall bear the following inscription:

NAME:

SERVICE:

HAT, COMBINATION, WOMAN’S

CONTRACT NO:

STOCK NO: 8410-00-000-0000 (example)

SIZE: 20 (example)

NAME OF CONTRACTOR:

NAME OF MANUFACTURER: (if other than contractor)

3.3.2 Hat cover.

3.3.2.1 Basic material. The basic material for the top and side pieces of the hat cover shall conform to the requirements of 3.3.2.1.1 or 3.3.2.1.2.

3.3.2.1.1 Cloth cover. The material for the Class I cover shall be 100 percent textured polyester twill cloth conforming to MIL-C-87052, White Shade 3006 and the pieces number for the standard and 89233.

3.3.2.1.2 Fusible interlining. The Class 1 hat cover material shall be fused to 100 percent nylon tricot.

The weight of the fusible interlining shall be 2.5 to 3.0 ounces per linear yard based on 60 inch width and conform to the following requirements when tested as specified in 4.4.1. As an alternate for the streamer and band, a foam fusible interlining (0.080 charcoal foam burned down to 0.025 and topped with a black nylon tricot) may be used.

Minimum Maximum

Weight, ounces per square yard:

Knit cloth 3.5 4.0

Combined 15.5 -

Breaking strength, pounds:

Wales 80.0 -

Courses 70.0 -

Tearing strength, grams:

Wales 3700 -

Courses 3700 -

Adhesion of coating, pounds per 2 inch width 8.0 -

Blocking scale rating - No. 3

Resistance to weathering, 200 hours 1/ -

Resistance to cracking, - F 2/ -

Plasticizer loss, percent - 8.0

1/ No appreciable signs of discoloration, exudation, tackiness, cracking, or stiffness of coating when tested specimen is compared with original.

2/ Coating shall not crack through the base cloth

3.3.2.2 Sweatband. The sweatband for the hat cover shall be 100 percent polyester plain rib weave grosgrain ribbon of a suitable white shade approximating the basic material and shall conform to the following requirements when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

Minimum Maximum

Width, inches 9/16 11/16

Weight, ounces per linear yard 0.35 0.45

Thread count:

Full width 70 -

Filling 30 -

3.3.2.3 Thread. The thread for seaming and stitching the hat cover shall be either cotton conforming to

Type IC1, Ticket No. 00, or 3-ply, of V-T-276, or a cotton or rayon covered polyester thread conforming to

Size No. 50 or MIL-T-43548. The color of the thread shall be white, approximating the shade of the basic material.

3.3.2.4 Label. Each finished hat cover shall have a cloth label conforming to MIL-DTL-32075, with the size to be expressed numerically. The printing on the label shall show fastness to laundering only. When the hat covers are procured separately, the applicable contract number shall also be indicated. The label shall bear the following inscription:

HAT COVER, COMBINATION WOMAN’S

FIBER CONTENT: 100% POLYESTER (example)

CONTRACT NO:

STOCK NO: 8410-00-000-0000 (example)

SIZE: 20 (example)

NAME OF MANUFACTURER: (if other than contractor)

3.4 Design.

3.4.1 Hat frame ensemble. The hat frame ensemble shall consist of the frame with a detachable hat cover and a detachable hat band. The frame shall have a stiffened oval shaped crown, a stiffened brim turned up at the sides and flat front and back, and a hat band with mount and streamers attached to the crown with four (4) snap fasteners. Each hat frame shall be furnished with two (2) hat covers as part of the ensemble.

The hat covers shall be of corresponding hat frame size, so as to fit snugly without any evidence of distortion on either of the components (see Figure 1).

3.4.1.1 Type I, Enlisted personnel. The hat frame, crown cover, hat band with streamers, and insignia shall be as described herein (see Figures 1, 4, and 6).

3.4.1.2 Type II, Officer personnel, LCDR and below, and Public Health Services. The hat frame, crown cover, hat band with streamers, and insignia mount shall be described herein. In addition, a 1/2 inch wide nonfunctional gold lace chin strap shall be secured to the hat band with two (2) size 22 1/2 ligne gilded buttons, tubes and washers. The chin strap shall conform to Type I, Class 3, of MIL-S-17615 and metal buttons shall conform to Waterbury Style No. 1000909-2402-10435. A hole centered on each side of hat shall be punched through for insertion of the button tube and washers. Secure the chin strap and hat band to the crown with the buttons (see Figures 2, 4, 5, and 6). The hat device (eagle and anchor) will be metal.

3.4.1.3 Type III, Officer personnel, CDR and above, and Public Health Services. The hat frame, crown cover, hat band with steamers, and insignia mount shall be as described herein. In addition, the body of the hat band shall be embroidered in gold with oak leaves and acorns, and the top edge of bend trimmed with gold braid piping approximately 1/4 inch wide (see Figures 3, 4, 5 and 6). The hat device (eagle and anchor) will be metal. The ornamentation shall be embroidered with gold synthetic metallic yarn conforming to Type III or MIL-E-17568.

3.4.2 Hat cover. The hat cover shall consist of a one piece top, a one piece side, a grosgrain ribbon sweatband, and four (4) horizontal buttonholes positioned to accept the four (4) snap fastener studs attached to the crown (see Figure 6).

3.4.3 Figures. Figures 1 through 8 are furnished for informational purpose only. When inconsistencies exist between the written specifications and the figures, the written document shall govern.

3.5 Patterns.

3.5.1 Hat frame. Standard patterns to be used in cutting the contractor’s working patterns will be furnished by the Government (see 6.3). The Government patterns, and the contractor’s working patterns shall not be altered in any way. Unless otherwise specified herein, the seam allowance shall be specified on the pattern parts.

3.5.2 Hat cover. A set of guide patterns in Size only shall be used in making the contractor’s working patterns and will be furnished by the Government (see 6.3). The contractor shall grade or modify all pattern parts to assure that the hat covers fit properly for the corresponding frame size without distortion to the frame or covers and provide alignment of buttonholes with the snap fasteners on the frame. When the hat cover is procured separately, the hat frames used for fitting the covers will be furnished by the

Government to the contractor.

3.5.3 Pattern parts. The component parts of the hat frames and hat covers shall be cut from materials as specified, and in accordance with the following pattern parts.

Material Nomenclature of pattern parts Cut parts

Cloth, polyester/wool, serge Brim 2

Band 1

Band streamer 1

Cloth, interlining, cotton or synthetic, and rayon Crown top (1 warp - 1 filling) 2

Crown side (2 warp - 2 filling) 4

Front visor reinforcement 2

Back visor reinforcement 1

Felt Brim interlining 2

Cloth, buckram, cotton Brim interlining 1

Plastic lining Crown top (inside) 1

Cloth, rayon or acetate, twill lining Crown top (inside) 1

Crown side 1

Fusible Band 1

Streamers 1

Cover top piece 1

Cover side piece 1

Templates Brim marker -

Band shaper -

Finished Mount (Enlisted) -

Finished Mount (Officer) -

Hat Cover

Cloth, polyester Top piece 1

Cloth, polyester Side piece 1

3.6 Construction.

3.6.1 Stitches, seams, and stitching. Stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Tables I and II shall conform to ASTM-D6193. Whenever two or more methods for seam or stitch types are given for the same part of the operation any one of them may be used. Where stitch types 101 and 401 are used, the looper

(underthread) shall be on the inside of the hat frame or hat cover. Seam allowances shall be maintained with the seams properly sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, pleats, or open seams will result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there is no tight or loose stitching.

Buttonholes shall be cut clean and the stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric.

3.6.2 Thread breaks and ends of seams. Ends of all seams and stitching, when not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. Thread breaks shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitches or thread breaks on 401 or 101 seaming, may be repaired using a 301 stitch type. Where stitch types 401 or 101 is permitted as an option, it shall not be used unless the ends are caught in other seams or stitching.

3.6.3 Stitches per inch. The minimum and maximum number of stitches per inch shall be specified in

Tables I and II.

3.7 Manufacturing operations. The hat frames and hat covers shall be manufactured in accordance with operation requirements specified in Tables I and II. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations listed, except for the following precaution:

Care shall be exercised by the contractor throughout the brim operation of the hat frame (see Table

I, Operation 4), in order to assure consistent stability and retainment of its blocked shape under adverse weather conditions.

3.7.1 Shade and size marking. The polyester/wool serge component parts of the hat frame only and all component parts of the hat covers, shall be marked, ticketed, or bundled to assure a uniform shade and size throughout the item. Any methods of shade and size marking may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.

b. Sew-on shade tickets or metal fastening devices.

c. Adhesive-type tickets which show discoloration, or the adhesive mass adheres to the material upon removal of the tickets.

NOTE: The use of ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp, or pencil is allowed, provided the numbering does not show on the outside of the hat and wherever possible, is covered by the seam allowance.

3.7.2 Abbreviations in table of operations. The abbreviations used in Tables I and II are as follows:

Stch Stitch

In Inch

Ndl Needle

Bob Bobbin

Lpr Looper

Mchne Machine

Brtck Bartack

Comrcl Commercial

Smlr Similar

Btnhl Buttonhole

Incl Including

Dbl Double

Chnstch Chainstitch

TABLE I – CONSTRUCTION OF HAT FRAMES

NO.

OPERATION

STCH

TYPE

SEAM/

IN

THREAD

NDL

BOB/LPR

1. Cutting.

a. The component parts of the hat frames shall be cut in strict accordance with the patterns furnished, which show size, shape, directional lines for cutting, and notches for proper assembly of all component parts.

b. All component parts cut from the polyester/wool serge shall be from one piece of material. The remaining component parts for the hat frame may be cut from ends.

c. Cut the two separate crown assemblies from the interlining material, with each assembly consisting of a top crown piece and two side crown pieces. One assembly shall have the parts cut in the warp direction of the fabric and the other assembly in the filling direction of the fabric.

2. Replacement of defective components.

During the spreading, cutting, and manufacturing process, components having material defects or damages that are classified as defects in Section 4, shall be removed from production and replaced with non-defective and properly matched components.

3. Make insignia mount.

a. Cut the paperboard stay and leatherette materials to shape using the finished mount template as a guide.

The finished mount template shall be used as a guide by the contractor to make a pattern for the serge cloth mount covering to meet requirements of operations 3b and 3c. The height of the mount shall be cut in the warp direction.

b. Cement the impregnated paperboard stay to the serge cloth used for making the brim. Turn the edge of the cloth approximately 1/4 inch over the edge of the curved portion of the stay and cement the cloth edges down, forming a finished folded edge.

c. The serge cloth shall not be folded over the straight cut edges of the stay piece. As an alternate, felt material may be used.

d. Cement the leatherette piece to the back side of the cloth covered stay piece with a suitable adhesive.

e. Top stitch all outer edges of the cloth covered mount approximately 1/16 inch from the folded edge

(see Figure 4). Overstitch the ends of the stitch line.

301 12-14 00/3 00/3

f. The holes for attaching the metallic insignia shall be centered on the mount as specified in the finished mount template. Maximum off center tolerance shall be 1/32 inch from true position.

TABLE I – CONSTRUCTION OF HAT FRAMES - CONTINUED

SEAM/

THREAD

NDL

4. Make brim.

a. The component parts shall be superimposed and finish in the following sequence to form the brim:

1. One ply of serge cloth (top of brim).

2. One ply of visor reinforcement cloth at front.

3. One ply of visor reinforcement cloth at back.

4. One ply of felt abutted at center back.

5. One ply of buckram cloth overlapped at center back.

6. One ply of felt abutted at center back.

7. One ply of visor reinforcement cloth at front.

8. One ply of serge cloth (bottom of brim).

b. Superimpose the two felt pieces over the buckram piece with their respective notches aligned. The buckram piece shall be sandwiched in between the two felt pieces.

c. Position the two front reinforcement pieces on the felt pieces, one on top of brim and one on bottom of brim, with their respective notches aligned. Stay stitch all five layers of brim materials together.

101 or

301 or

6-8

d. Overlap the ends of the buckram piece, about the ends of the two felt pieces, and stay stitch around the outer circumference of brim approximately 1 inch in from raw edge simultaneously positioning and catching the back reinforcement piece on upper side of brim. Align notch in reinforcement piece with abutted ends of felt.

101 or

301 or

6-8

e. Continue stay stitching across width of brim and around entire inner circumference of brim approximately 1 inch in from raw edge simultaneously catching the reinforcement pieces. As an alternate, operations 4b, 4c, 4d, and 4e may be performed in one simultaneous operation.

101 or

301 or

6-8

f. Stitch the ends of each ply of the serge cloth outer shell 1/4 (+ 1/16) inch from raw edge.

301 or

SSa-1 12-14 0/3 0/3

0/3 00/3

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THREAD

g. Press seams open.

h. Superimpose one ply of the serge cloth outer shell face up, over the felt interlining and base stitch around circumference of brim to secure plies.

Baste 6-8

i. Superimpose the second ply of the serge cloth outer shell, face to face, over the first ply of serge cloth outer shell and stitch around circumference of brim 3/16 to 1/4 inch from felt edge. A second row of stitching shall be positioned 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the felt edge. Trim edges evenly, when necessary.

301 or

SSa-1 12-14 0/3 0/3

0/3 00/3

j. Turn the second ply of serge cloth to the underside, so that the interlining assembly is encased.

Smoothing out the excess outer shell material, baste stitch the brim with two or three rows of equidistant stitching to secure all plies.

Baste 6-8

k. Stitch the entire brim with 19 or more continuous and equally spaced rows of circular stitching. Rows shall be visually counted at widest portion of brim.

Remove baste stitching performed in Operation 4.i.

301 SSv-19 or more

12-14 0/3 0/3

l. Turn the assembled brim to its finished position.

Using the brim marker template chalk a line or baste stitch along inner edge of brim as a guide for attaching and centering the crown.

m. Block brim into proper shape by using contractor supplied blocks that have been formed and size graded based on data obtained from the government furnished sample block. The brim shall be thoroughly steamed using saturated steam at 1 F until pliable and then fitted and hand shaped to the block. Insert the block plug to insure proper size and comfortable fit. Additional steaming may be necessary to obtain the desired shape of brim. Cover the brim with a pressing cloth and fasten cloth to the block with some form of cord to hold the brim in shape. lace the brim and block in a drying oven with a temperature of appro imately F until thoroughly dry. Remove cord, pressing cloth, plug, and brim from block.

n. The finished width of the brim in all hat frame sizes shall be in accordance with the dimensions specified in 3.8.1.

5. Make crown.

a. Overedge stitch the two (2) top crown pieces together with a 3/16 inch bite. Cut one piece in the warp direction and the other in the filling direction.

503 or

504 or

EFd-1 8-10 0/3 0/3

SEAM/

THREAD

b. Superimpose two (2) side crown pieces, one piece cut in the warp direction and one piece cut in the filling direction.

c. Overlap approximately 1/2 inch, the ends of the doubled side crown pieces over the ends of the other doubled side crown pieces and join together with a

3/16 to 1/4 inch gauge double needle stitch. The outer row of the double needle stitching shall be 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the raw edge.

301 or

LSa-2 8-10 0/3 0/3

0/3 00/3

d. Overlap 1/4 to 3/8 inch the doubled top crown pieces over the top of the doubled side crown assembly and join together 1/8 to 3/16 inch from the edge of top crown piece. The side crown seams shall finish at the center front and center back of top crown piece.

301 or

LSa-1 8-10 0/3 0/3

0/3 003

e. Block the crown as follows:

1. Position the crown snugly over a corresponding size block.

2. Fasten a tie cord securely around the base of the block, so as to hold the crown taut, or trim the bottom edges of crown side pieces.

3. Steam press blocked crowns thoroughly using a heated oven. Guide marks shall be made for positioning the four (4) snap fastener studs just prior to removing the crown from the block (see operation

9).

4. Upon removal of the crowns from the blocks, the crowns shall be sufficiently air dried.

6. Make crown lining assembly.

a. The crown lining shall consist of a two ply top, consisting of an upper layer of rayon or acetate cloth and an underside of plastic sheeting; and a one-piece bias-cut side crown lining piece.

SEAM/

THREAD

b. With the circular piece of clear plastic sheeting sandwiched in between the top rayon or acetate crown piece and the side rayon or acetate crown piece, stitch the three pieces together around the circumference of the plastic film, 3/8 to 1/2 inch from the raw edges, simultaneously taking up the fullness of the side crown piece by pleating. The width of each pleat shall be approximately 5/8 inch. The ends of the side crown piece shall overlap at the back of the crown and they shall be folded under and caught in the stitching when forming the last few pleats. As an alternate, the side crown lining may be pre-pleated before joining to top crown lining.

301 or

SSa-1 10-14 0/3 0/3

0/3 00/3

7. Attach lining to crown.

a. In the finished position, insert the lining assembly within the crown assembly distributing equally the fullness of lining around the entire circumference of crown.

b. Stitch the lining to crown side pieces around the bottom edge, approximately 5/8 inch from the raw edge.

101 or

301 or

SSa-1 10-12 0/3

0/3 0/3

0/3 00/3

c. Trim off even, the bottom edge of crown and crown lining pieces, to conform to the crown heights specified in 3.8.1.

d. Overedge stitch the lining and crown side pieces together around the bottom edge.

503 or

504 or

SSa-1 8-10 0/3 0/3

0/3 00/3

0/3 00/3

8. Attach crown to brim.

a. Position and center crown over brim using the chalk or stitch guide marks inserted in operation 4.1 and stitch all around its circumference simultaneously inserting and catching the identification label in the line of stitching at back of brim. The label shall finish with the top edge “(Name---)” segment facing towards the front of the hat frame, with all of the printing clearly visible when the sweatband is turned down.

As an alternate, the label may be stitched to the brim before joining brim to the crown.

or

LSb-1 or

LSa-1

12-14 0/3 0/3

0/3 00/3

NOTE: To ensure proper appearance of finished hat, it is critical that the crown and brim be centered (front and back) before stitching them together.

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THREAD

b. Press to shape. Care shall be taken not to form sharp lines along the brim upturn area. The brim shall be turned up on both sides of the hat so that it meets the top edge of the band (+ 1/8).

c. The finished crown shall conform to the measurements specified in 3.8.1.

9. Attach snap fastener studs.

Attach and secure the four (4) snap fastener studs to the face side of the side crown pieces on guide marks indicated in 5.e. The lower edge of each stud shall finish 1/4 to 3/8 inch from the bottom finished edge of the crown. The snap fastener studs shall be positioned as follows:

1. One stud at center front.

2. One stud centered on each side.

3. One stud positioned 1 (+ 1/16) inch to left of back center.

10. Attach sweatband.

a. Position and stitch the bottom woven edge of the sweatband to the inside of brim, 3/8 to 5/8 inch from the inner raw edge, simultaneously overlapping and folding under the overlapping end of sweatband approximately 1/2 inch. The ends of sweatband shall commence approximately 1-1/2 inches from either side of center back.

301 or

SSa-1 12-14 0/3 0/3

0/3 00/3

b. Wet sponge and hot press sweatband to shape.

11. Make hat band.

a. Fuse band and fold under one side of bias-cut band in the length direction approximately 3/8 inch, and stitch approximately 1/16 inch from the folded edge.

301 or

EFa-1 12-14 0/3 0/3

0/3 00/3

b. Fold band approximately in half lengthwise, with the raw edge positioned approximately 1/16 inch in from the folded edge formed in sequence (a). Edge stitch on the face side, the unstitched top folded edge of band with a double row of 1/8 to 3/16 inch gauge stitching. The outer row of double stitching shall be

1/16 inch from the folded edge.

301 or

OSf-2 12-14 0/3 0/3

0/3 00/3

c. Steam and hot press band using the curved band shaper template.

NOTE: Guide marks shall be made for positioning the four (4) snap fastener sockets on the band to correspond with snap fastener studs on the crown of the hat frame.

SEAM/

THREAD

d. Secure snap fastener sockets according to guide marks. The sockets shall be inserted through the inner ply only.

e. Trim raw edge of band, when necessary, and stitch a single row of stitching 1/8 to 3/16 inch from the single row of edge stitching formed in sequence (a).

301 or

- 12-14 0/3 0/3

0/3 00/3

f. Stitch ends of band together 3/16 to 1/4 inch from the raw edges. Press seam open and flat.

301 or

SSa-1 12-14 0/3 0/3

0/3 00/3

g. Center and align top straight edge of insignia mount evenly with top straight edge of band on back side and stitch with two (2) rows of stitching aligned with the two (2) rows of stitching on the band. The stitching shall extend beyond the side edges of mount by a minimum of 1/2 inch.

301 - 12-14 0/3 0/3

h. The finished band shall measure 1-1/4 to 1-3/8 inches in width.

12. Make band streamer.

a. Fuse band streamer and fold under one side of bias-cut band streamer in the length direction approximately 3/8 inch and stitch approximately 1/16 inch from the folded edge.

301 EFa-1 12-14 0/3 0/3

b. Fold band approximately in half lengthwise, with the raw edge positioned approximately 1/16 inch from the folded edge formed in sequence (a). Edge stitch on the face side, the unstitched folded edge of band with a double row of 1/8 to 3/16 inch gauge stitching. The outer row of double stitching shall be 1/16 inch from the folded edge.

301 OSf-1 12-14 0/3 0/3

c. Trim raw edge of band streamer, when necessary, and stitch a single row of stitching 1/8 to 3/16 inch from the single row of edge stitching formed in sequence (a).

301 - 12-14 0/3 0/3

d. Press band streamer.

e. The finished band streamer shall measure 6 to 6-

1/2 inches in length and 1-1/4 to 1-3/8 inches in width.

13. Attach streamer to band.

a. The finished streamer shall be doubled over the band at back center with the overlapping half of streamer angled diagonally towards the right side of hat as worn. Invisibly stitch the properly positioned streamer to the band. As an alternate, the streamer can be top stitched to the band using a single row of stitches.

Hand fell

SEAM/

THREAD

b. The ends of the streamer shall be cut square and pinked and shall not protrude beyond the outer edge of brim when attached to crown.

14. Finishing.

a. Trim ends of stitching and remove all loose thread.

b. Remove all spots, stains, and shade tickets.

c. Prepare applicable type hat frame with hat covers for packaging and packing (see Section 5).

TABLE II – CONSTRUCTION OF HAT COVERS

SEAM/

THREAD

NDL

BOB/LPR

1. Cutting.

a. The component parts of the hat cover shall be cut in strict accordance with the contractor’s patterns utilizing the government’s guide patterns furnished which show size, shape, direction lines for cutting, and notches for proper assembly of the component parts.

b. All component parts shall be cut from one piece of material.

c. Cut the grosgrain ribbon 1/2 (+ 1/16) inch longer than the applicable head size.

2. Replacement of defective components.

During the spreading, cutting, and manufacturing process, components having material defects or damages that are classified as defects in Section 4, shall be removed from production and replaced with non-defective and properly matched components.

3. Shade and size marking.

All component parts shall be marked, ticketed, or bundled in accordance with 3.7.1.

4. Make hat cover.

a. Fuse top and side pieces.

b. Join ends of side piece, face to face, and stitch

3/16 to 1/4 inch from the raw edge. Spread seam open and press flat.

301 or

SSz-3(a) 10-12 0/3 0/3

03/ 00/3

c. Double stitch 1/8 to 3/16 inch gauge, with the seam centered between the two rows of stitching.

301 or

SSz-3(b) 10-12 0/3 0/3

0/3 00/3

d. Join side piece to top piece, face to face, and stitch

3/16 to 1/4 inch from the raw edges. Spread seam open and press flat, with the side piece seam centered at center back length of top piece.

301 or

SSz-3(a) 10-12 0/3 0/3

TABLE II – CONSTRUCTION OF HAT COVERS - CONTINUED

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THREAD

e. Double stitch 1/8 to 3/16 inch gauge, with the seam centered between the two rows of stitching.

301 or

SSz-3(b) 10-12 0/3 0/3

0/3 00/3

f. Join ends of sweatband approximately 1/4 inch from raw edges.

301 or

SSa-1 10-12 0/3 0/3

0/3 00/3

g. The joined ends of the sweatband may be spread open or turned to one side when the sweatband is attached to bottom open edge of side piece.

h. Fold under the bottom open edge of side piece

3/16 to 5/16 inch, and stitch one edge of sweatband to side piece around its entire inner circumference not less than 1/16 inch from the folded edge.

301 SSt-2 10-12 0/3 00/3

i. Stitch other edge of the sweatband to the side piece, simultaneously inserting and catching the length of one side of label in the closing seam (see

3.3.2.4). The label shall finish 1 (+ 1/2) inch from either side of center back seam of side piece, face side up with the printing clearly visible.

301 - 10-14 0/3 0/3

5. Make buttonholes.

Make four horizontal buttonholes in each sweatband, straight style 7/8 (+ 1/16) inch from the bottom edge of sweatband to the center of the buttonhole. All buttonholes shall be barred at each end and positioned as follows:

1. One at the center front.

2. One centered on each side.

3. One positioned 1 (+ 1/8) inch to left of center back seam.

Button-hole

- 45 per

Button

-hole

00/3 00/3

6. Finishing and blocking.

a. Turn the hat cover to its finished position, with the seams and label on the inside.

b. Trim ends of stitching and remove all loose thread.

c. Remove all spots, stains, and shade tickets.

d. Each hat cover shall be fitted over the correct size wooden blocks furnished by the contractor.

e. Insert each blocked hat cover into a heated steam oven for approximately one minute, with the temperature of the oven properly controlled.

f. Upon removal of the hat covers from the blocks, the hat covers shall be thoroughly air dried and free from wrinkles.

3.8 Finished measurements.

3.8.1 Hat frames. The size and measurements of the finished hat frames shall be in strict accordance with

Table III. All measurements and tolerance are expressed in inches.

TABLE III – FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

MEASUREMENT

SIZE

20 20 ½ 21 21 ½ 22 22 ½ 23 23 ½ 24 TOL.

Width of brim:

Center front 2 ½ 2 ½ 2 ½ 2 ½ 2 ½ 2 ½ 2 ½ 2 ½ 2 ½ + 1/8

Center sides 1/ 2 ¾ 2 ¾ 2 ¾ 2 ¾ 2 ¾ 2 ¾ 2 ¾ 2 ¾ 2 ¾ + 1/8

Center back 1 ¾ 1 ¾ 1 ¾ 1 ¾ 1 ¾ 1 ¾ 1 ¾ 1 ¾ 1 ¾ + 1/8

Center length of crown top 5 5/8 5 ¾ 5 7/8 6 6 1/8 6 ¼ 6 3/8 6 ½ 6 5/8 + 1/8

Center width of crown top 5 5 1/8 5 ¼ 5 3/8 5 ½ 5 5/8 5 ¾ 5 7/8 6 + 1/8

Height of crown:

Center front 2 3/8 2 3/8 2 3/8 2 7/16 2 ½ 2 9/16 2 5/8 2 11/16 2 ¾ + 1/8

Center sides 2/ 2 ½ 2 ½ 2 ½ 2 9/16 2 5/8 2 11/16 2 ¾ 2 13/16 2 7/8 + 1/8

Center back 2 5/8 2 5/8 2 5/8 2 11/16 2 ¾ 2 13/16 2 7/8 2 15/16 3 + 1/8

1/ Measurement shall be taken at the center sides as indicated by the snap fastener studs, from the bottom edge of crown to the edge of brim. The difference between the two center side brim measurements shall not be more than 1/8 inch.

2/ Measurement shall be taken at the center sides as indicated by snap fastener studs, from bottom edge of crown to adjoining seam at top of crown. The difference between the two center side crown measurements shall not be more than 1/8 inch.

3.8.2 Hat covers. The size and measurements of the finished hat covers shall be as determined by the contractor.

3.9 Workmanship. The finished hat frames and hat covers shall conform to the quality of product established by this specification. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable quality levels specified in 4.4.3.

4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4.1 Responsibility for inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the contractor is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements (examination and tests) as specified herein. Except as otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the contractor may use there own or any other facilities suitable for performance of the inspection requirements specified herein, unless disapproved by the Government. The Government reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in the specification where such inspection are deemed necessary to ensure supplies and services conform to prescribed requirements.

4.1.1 Responsibility for compliance. All items meet all requirements of section 3 and 5. The inspection set forth in this specification shall become a part of the contractor’s overall inspection system or quality program. The absence of any inspection requirements in the specification shall not relieve the contractor of the responsibility of ensuring that all products or supplies submitted to the Government for acceptance comply with all requirements of the contract. Sampling inspection, as part of manufacturing operations, is an acceptable practice to ascertain conformance to requirements, however, this does not authorize submission of known defective material, either indicated or actual, nor does it commit the Government to acceptance of defective material.

4.2 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.4)

b. Quality conformance inspection (see 4.4)

4.3 First article inspection. When required, the first article submitted in accordance with 3.2, shall be inspected as specified in 4.4.2 and 4.4.3 for compliance with design, construction, workmanship, appearance and dimensional requirements.

4.4 Quality conformance inspection. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ASQ

Z1.4, except where otherwise indicated.

4.4.1 Component and material inspection. In accordance with 4.1, components and material shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced specifications, drawings, and standards unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this specification or applicable purchase document.

In addition, testing shall be performed on components and materials listed in Table IV, wherever applicable, and as specified. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final result. The lot size and sample size shall be as shown below, and the lot shall be unacceptable if one or more units fail to meet any of the requirements specified.

Lot size Sample size

800 or less 2

801 through 22,000 3

22,000 and over 5

TABLE IV – COMPONENT TESTING

Component and lot size unit

Characteristic Requirement paragraph

Test method Sample unit for testing

Felt (yds.) Material identification

(fiber content and color)

1/ 1 ½ yards

Weight 3.3.1.4 ASTM-D3776

Thickness 3.3.1.4 ASTM-D1777

Ball burst strength 3.3.1.4 ASTM-D3787

Stiffness: 3.3.1.4

Initial 3.3.1.4 ASTM-D747

After soaking 3.3.1.4 ASTM-D747 2/

Non-fibrous material 3.3.1.4.1…