Attachment_3_-_CG_PD_11-06C_Cap_Combination_Man's_USCG_7-11-16.pdf

CG/PD 11-06C

11 July 2016

SUPERSEDING

CG/PD 11-06B

17 June 2014

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

CAP, COMBINATION, MAN’S (UNITED STATES COAST GUARD)

This document is approved for use by all departments and agencies of the Department of

Homeland Security.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for cap frames, covers, mounts and bands to be worn by male personnel of the United States Coast Guard.

1.2 Classification.

1.2.1 Cap frame. The cap frame shall be procured with a black poromeric chin strap

(enlisted) or a woven gold lace chin strap (officers). Each frame shall have a front stand with removable crown support wire in the following classes, and sizes as specified (see

6.2).

Class 1 – Flag Rank Officers with 2 gold buttons and high gloss black poromeric visor

Class 2 – Captains and Commanders with 2 gold buttons and a cloth visor

Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to the U.S. Coast

Guard Clothing Design and Technical Office, 10 General Greene Ave, Building 86, Natick, MA 01760.

AMSC N/A FSC 8405

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT. Approved for distribution release, distribution is unlimited.

Schedule of sizes

6 1/2 7 1/4

6 5/8 7 3/8

6 3/4 7 1/2

6 7/8 7 5/8

7 7 3/4

7 1/8 7 7/8

1.2.2 Cap cover. The cap cover shall be one of the following types:

Type I – Cap cover when procured as assembled combination cap

Type II – Cap cover when procured separately

The sizes shall correspond to the cap frame sizes as follows:

S 6 1/2, 6 5/8, 6 3/4, 6 7/8

M 7, 7 1/8, 7 1/4

L 7 3/8, 7 1/2, 7 5/8

XL 7 3/4, 7 7/8, 8

1.2.3 Mount and band. The mount shall be one of the following types:

Type I – Commissioned Officers and Chief Warrant Officers

Type II – Chief Petty Officers and Enlisted Men

The band shall be one type and sized to fit over frame and cover.

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 Government documents.

2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks from a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the

Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards.

SPECIFICATIONS

FEDERAL

A-A-50199 Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-covered

A-A-52094 Thread, Cotton

A-A-59517 Cloth, Coated, or Laminated, Polyvinylchloride (Artificial Leather)

A-A-52067 Binding, Textile, Cotton, Bias-cut

A-A-55198 Cloth, Melton, Wool (Moth Proof)

MILITARY

MIL-DTL-823 Cloth, Serge; Wool, Wool and Nylon, Polyester and Wool

MIL-B-3461 Buttons, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap

MIL-E-17568 Embroidery Materials, Metallic and Synthetic Metallic

MIL-C-87052 Cloth, Twill, Polyester, White

MIL-C-82252 Cloth, Broadcloth, Wool, and Wool-Synthetic (Moth Proofed)

MIL-DTL-32075 Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use)

STANDARDS

FEDERAL

FED-STD-311 Leather, Methods of Sampling and Treating

FED-STD-191 Textile Test Methods

FED-STD-595 Colors Used in Government Procurement

MILITARY

MIL-STD-129 Military Marking for Shipment and Storage

MIL-STD-2073-1 Standard Practice for Military Packaging

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch/ or from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Street, Philadelphia, PA

19111-9054.)

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

CDTO-PD-208-10 Strap, Chin

(Copies of these documents are available from the U.S. Coast Guard Clothing Design and

Technical Office, Kansas Street, Building 86, Natick, MA 01570.)

2.1.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other

Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation.

RULES AND REGULATIONS UNDER THE TEXTILE FIBER PRODUCTS

IDENTIFICATION ACT

(Copies may be obtained, without charge, from the Federal Trade Commission, Washington, DC 20580-0001.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ASQ Z1.4 Sample Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies of this document are available online at http://www.asq.org or from American

Society for Quality, P.O. Box 3005, Milwaukee, WI 53201-3005.)

THE COLOR ASSOCIATION OF THE UNITED STATES

Department of Defense Standard Shades for Sewing Threads

(Applications for copies are available online at http://www.colorassociation.com or from

The Color Association of the United States, 33 Whitehall Street, Suite M3. New York, NY 10004.)

THE AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS

AATCC 8 Colorfastness to Crocking

AATCC 15 Colorfastness to Perspiration

AATCC 16 Colorfastness to Light

AATCC 61 Test 1A, Colorfastness to Laundering, Home and Commercial

Accelerated

AATCC 107 Colorfastness to Water

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://www.aatcc.org/ or from

American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists P.O. Box 12215, Research

Triangle Park, NC 27709.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS

ASTM-D3776 Standard Test Methods for Mass per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric

ASTM-D1777 Standard Test Method for Thickness of Textile Materials

ASTM-D638 Standard Test Method for Tensile Properties of Plastics

ASTM-D751 Standard Test Methods for Coated Fabrics

ASTM-D2288 Standard Test Method for Weight Loss of Plasticizers on Heating

ASTM-D6193 Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

ASTM-D1424 Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabric by Falling-

Pendulum Type (Elmendorf) Apparatus

ASTM-D2209 Standard Test Method for Tensile Strength of Leather

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://www.astm.org/ or from

American Society for Testing and Materials, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West

Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959.)

TAPPI

T410 OM-02 Grammage of Paper and Paperboard (Weight per unit area)

T411 OM-05 Thickness (Caliper) of Paper, Paperboard, and Combined Board

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://tappi.org/ or from TAPPI, 15

Technology Parkway South, Suite 115, Peachtree Corners, GA 30092.)

2.3 Order of precedence. In event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Samples. Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variations from this document may appear in the sample in which case this document shall govern.

3.2 First article. When specified, the contractor shall furnish sample unit(s) for first article inspection and approval (see 4.3).

3.3 Material.

3.3.1 Cap frame.

3.3.1.1 Visor.

3.3.1.1.1 Cloth, wool or wool/synthetic. The cloth used for Class 1 cap frame visor top shall conform to Class 1 of A-A-55198 or Type I, Class 3, or Type II, Class 3, of MIL-C-

82252.

3.3.1.1.2 Plastic. The plastic used for the Class 2 cap frame visor top and chin strap shall be smooth, high-gloss, 100 percent polyurethane, unsupported “Poromeric Material”,

0.060 (+/- 0.005) inch thick, 17.0 (+/- 1) ounces per square yard, pigmented black approximating Shade Number 17038 of FED-STD-595, as specified in 4.4.1. As an alternate, the chin strap shall be an extruded vinyl matching the color and gloss of the visor.

3.3.1.1.3 Cloth, cotton twill. The cloth, unbleached, shall be suitable for laminating to the wool broadcloth or Melton, as specified in 3.3.1.1.1, and shall be used on the Class 1 cloth visor top. The cloth shall have a minimum of 72 ends and 60 picks per inch, weight

6 to 8 ounces per square yard, and shall have a maximum of 15 percent starch and protein content including chloroform and water-soluble material, when tested as specified in

4.4.1.

3.3.1.1.4 Plumper paper. A suitable commercial plumper paper shall be used for laminating to the poromeric material in the fabrication of Class 2 poromeric visor top.

The plumper paper shall be 0.020 (+/- 0.002) inch thick and properly treated so that it retains its original shape after being subjected to the immersion test specified in 4.4.1.

3.3.1.1.5 Leather. The leather used in fabricating the visor bottom of Class 1 and 2 cap frame visors shall be constructed or reconstituted leather (commercially referred to as

PARLON), in a black pebbled gloss finish, and shall be 6.0 to 6.5 ounces thick. The leather shall be tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.3.1.1.6 Binding. The binding for Type I and Type II visor edge shall be made from a plastic film, weighting not less than 12 ounces per square yard, and having a thickness of not less than 0.0013 inch. The plastic film shall have a smooth high finish, and the color shall match the Type II visor top as specified in 3.3.1.1.2. The binding shall not crack and shall show no evidence of tackiness. The binding shall be tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.3.1.1.7 Adhesive. The adhesive used for bonding the component parts of the visor shall be water resistant and made from either natural or synthetic rubber. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.1.

3.3.1.1.8 Embroidered visors (Type I frame). When cloth top visors are to be embroidered, the embroidery materials shall conform to Type III, Class 8, of MIL-E-

17568 (see Figure 2).

3.3.1.2 Front stand.

3.3.1.2.1 Stay. The stay for front stand consists of a twin wire tape stiffener, a molded clear vinyl or polyvinyl chloride stand, and a paper board support piece. The stay components shall meet the following requirements when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.3.1.2.1.1 Twin wire tape stiffener. The twin wire tape shall be muslin covered measuring 1 inch wide. The steel wire used in the tape shall be hard rolled, cold finished carbon steel, galvanized, flat wire, and shall be 0.016 (+/- 0.002) inch thick by 0.090 (+/-

0.004) inch wide.

3.3.1.2.1.2 Vinyl or polyvinyl chloride stiffener. The molded clear vinyl or polyvinyl chloride stiffener shall be heat sealed, 3-ply, 0.020 inch clear virgin vinyl or polyvinyl chloride as shown by the standard sample.

3.3.1.2.1.3 Support piece. The support piece shall be made of a semi-flexible black paperboard material approximately 1 1/2 inches wide by approximately 6 inches long with a minimum thickness of 0.030 inch.

3.3.1.2.2 Alternative stays. The fist alternative stay, the front stand may be made of a high density (linear) polyethylene plastic material, white or natural in color, conforming to Type I, II, or III, Class H, Grades 1 or 2 of L-P-390, except that the low temperature brittleness, dielectric constant, dissipation factor, and thermal stress cracking requirements shall not be applicable. The front stand may be a one piece molded stay with support piece and front stay as one unit. The minimum thickness of the plastic material shall be 0.050 inch.

The second alternate stay is a one-piece molded clear vinyl or polyvinyl chloride stand, which shall consist of a channeled opening for the grommet wire insert and paperboard support piece. The components for both alternate stays shall be tested as specified in

3.3.1.2.3 Front stay binding. This binding is used for the stay in 3.3.1.2.1 and for the first alternate stay only in 3.3.1.2.2. Binding to cover the front stay or first alternate front stay shall be a vinyl coated cloth, untreated white shade conforming to Class 7 of A-A-

59517, with the following exceptions:

a. Width of base and coated cloths are not required.

b. Commercial designation of base cloth shall be 3.70 ounces per square yard.

c. Weight of coated cloth shall be 15.0 ounces per square yard (minimum).

d. Coated weight shall be 12 ounces per square yard (minimum).

e. Grain shall be simulated twill weave embossing or smooth.

3.3.1.3 Inner band. The inner band shall be made from a high density (linear) polyethylene in flat stock or molded from conforming to the requirements specified in

3.3.1.3.1 and 3.3.1.3.2.

3.3.1.3.1 Stand inner band. The high density (linear) polyethylene plastic material shall be black in color conforming to Types I, II, or III, Class H, Grades 1 or 2 of L-P-390, except that the low temperature brittleness, dielectric constant, dissipation factor, and thermal stress cracking resistance requirements shall not be applicable. The standard inner band shall be made from flat stock that has been extruded, stripped, split, or cut 2

(+/- 1/8) inches in width, 0.050 to 0.070 inch in thickness, and shall be perforated. A margin of 1/4 inch at top and bottom edges of the band material shall not be perforated.

Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.1.

3.3.1.3.1.1 Stiffness. The standard inner band material shall have stiffness (scale reading) between 22-38 inclusive when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.3.1.3.1.2 Bending. The standard inner band material shall show no evidence of cracking after the bending test specified in 4.4.1.

3.3.1.3.2 Alternate inner band. The alternate inner band shall be made from the material specified in 3.3.1.3.1, meet the requirements of 3.3.1.3.1.1 and 3.3.1.3.1.2, and shall be molded in a cane interlaced chair seat design on one or both sides. The top and bottom margins shall finish 3/16 to 1/4 inch in width and shall be 0.060 to 0.075 inch in thickness. The thickness of the material in the chair seat design area shall be approximately 0.010 inch less than that in the margins. The finished width of the inner band shall be 2 (+/- 1/8) inches. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.1.

3.3.1.3.3 Cloth, polyester/wool serge. The cloth used for covering the bottom edge of the inner band on Type I and II cap frames shall conform to Type III, Class 3 of MIL-C-

823. The color shall be CG Blue 3362. The piece number for the standard sample is

80353.

3.3.1.4 Sweatband. The sweatband shall be made from either sheepskin leather conforming or from artificial leather. The sweatband shall finish 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 inches in width and shall be black or brown in color. The finished sweatband shall contain perforations that are evenly spaced.

3.3.1.4.1 Sweatband, sheepskin leather. The leather shall be full grain, vegetable tanned sheepskin that has been re-tanned with glutaraldehyde so as to have perspiration resistance (see 6.7). Leather with correct grain or embossed grain is not acceptable. The flesh side of the leather shall be free of loose flesh. The thickness of the leather shall be as such that the finished sweatband shall be 2 1/2 ounces +/- 1/2 ounce when measured as specified in Table VI. The color and finish of the leather shall be as specified. The grain side of the leather shall have a smooth dull finish. The finish shall contain no lead salts see 6.6). The leather shall be such that the finished sweatband shall be embossed with an imitation turned line 1/8 inch from the top edge. When blocked the finish of the leather shall not be tacky when tested as specified and according to FED-STD-311, and at least

80 percent of the tested specimens shall separate with ease and shall show no grain damage or peeling of the finish (see 4.4.1). The leather shall have a shrinkage temperature of not less than 85°C when tested as specified and according to FED-STD-

311 (see 4.4.1). The leather shall be tested for resistance to dry and wet crocking in accordance with FED-STD-311, where in the staining of the dry and wet crock cloths shall not lower numerically than AATCC value 4 (see 4.4.1). The leather shall be tested for area stability to perspiration in accordance with FED-STD-311, where in at least 80 percent of the tested specimens shall have an area loss no greater than 15 percent (see

6.7). At least 80 percent of the specimens shall not crack when tested as specified in

FED-STD-311 (see 4.4.1). For chemical requirements the leather shall conform to the requirements of the table listed below:

Chemical requirements for Sheepskin Leather

Characteristic Minimum Maximum

Ash, percent 1/ - 5.0

Lead (qualitative) 2/ 2/ pH 3.3 -

Chromic oxide, percent 1/ - 0.5

1/ Calculated on the moisture free basis.

2/ The presence of lead is prohibited.

3.3.1.4.2 Sweatband, artificial leather. The material for the sweatbands shall be composed of a non-woven synthetic substrate impregnated with an elastomeric binder.

The top surface of the substrate shall be coated with an abrasive resistant finish.

3.3.1.5 Sweatband welt. The material used for the sweatband welt shall be unsupported flexible vinyl film, 0.010 inch minimum thickness and crack resistant at 0°F. The color of the film shall approximate the shade of the sweatband or be black. The sweatband welt shall be sewn beneath the sweatband. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.1.

3.3.1.6 Crown protector. The material used for the crown protector shall be unsupported flexible vinyl sheeting, clear, 0.010 inch minimum thickness, crack resistant at minus

20°F. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.1.

3.3.1.7 Card holder. The material used for the card holder affixed to the face side of the crown protector shall be a semi-ridged, clear vinyl or cellulose acetate sheeting 0.004 to

0.008 inch thickness. Testing shall be specified in 4.4.1.

3.3.1.8 Metal fittings.

3.3.1.8.1 Grommet wire. The grommet wire used to support the cap crown shall be made of first quality spring steel completely coated with white ethyl cellulose, cellulose propionate, or cellulose acetate propionate coating. The steel wire shall be cut to the required length (see Table I, Operation 13a) and shall finish 5/16 (+/- 1/32) inch in width and 0.020 (+/- 0.005) inch in thickness. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.1.

3.3.1.8.2 Clamp. The adjustment clamp clinched to the one end of the steel grommet wire shall be made of the following material:

Base and clamp Carbon steel AISI 1020, hardness Rockwell B scale 66, thickness

0.031 (+/- 0.002) inch

Slug Carbon steel AISI 1015/1020, hardness Rockwell B scale 90, thickness 0.015 (+/- 0.002) inch

Assembled clamp Electroplated with zinc 0.00005 inch minimum thickness, chrome plated finish

The clamp assembled shall be approximately 1 inch long and its design shall conform in principal to Figure 3. The width of the base component shall be sufficient to accommodate the width of the grommet wire. Testing shall be performed as specified in

3.3.1.8.3 Staples. The staples shall be stamped from a heavy duty corrosion resistant flat steel wire, 0.0250 (+/- 0.0005) inch in thickness, and shall be a sufficient length to thoroughly secure the applicable component parts and leave a smooth flat clinch without any distortion of the materials. The staples shall have a corrosion resistant finish, and shall show no evidence of corrosion when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.3.1.9 Buttons. The buttons used for the cap frame shall be 22 1/2 ligne conforming to

Type II, Style 5, Class A of MIL-B-3461, except that the length of the screw tube shall be

3/8 (+/- 1/64) inch.

3.3.1.10 Chin strap. The chin strap for enlisted personnel cap frame shall conform to the style of Type III, Class 1 of CDTO-PD-208-10, except it shall be a strip of single ply plumper material as specified in 3.3.1.1.2 and be heat set with rolled edges 1/16 inch from each side. The chin strap for the Officers cap frame shall conform to Type I, Class

3 of CDTO-PD-208-10.

3.3.1.11 Foam tape. The material used to cushion the wearer’s forehead shall be a strip of black or gray vinyl foam tape 1/2 inch wide. The density of the tape shall be 8.0 pounds per cubic foot. The tape shall have an acrylic adhesive backing with minimum peel strength of 2 pounds per square inch. Compression (set at 25 percent loss from original height) shall be 4. The cushioning tape shall have excellent resistance to fungi, oxidation, and weathering. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.1.

3.3.2 Cap cover.

3.3.2.1 Basic material. The basic material for the crown and flare pieces of the cap cover shall conform to the requirements of 3.3.2.1.1 or 3.3.2.1.2.

3.3.2.1.1 Cloth cover. The material for the cover shall be 100 percent textured polyester twill cloth conforming to MIL-C-87052, White Shade 3006.

3.3.2.1.2 Fusible interlining. The cap cover material specified in 3.3.2.1.1 shall be laminated to a 100% polyester fusible tricot knit. The fusible shall weigh 1.7 ounces per square yard when tested as specified in ASTM D 3776. It shall have a maximum stretch of 60% in the width direction and 16% in the length direction. Stretch recovery shall be

97% in the width direction and 99% in the length direction. Fabric stretch and stretch recovery shall be tested as specified in BS 4294 1968 - 3kg weight."

3.3.2.2 Webbing for cap cover. The webbing for the band on the cap cover shall be a polyester knit type with a horizontal weave, a finished width of 1 3/4 (+/- 1/16) inches, a weight of 0.72 to 0.97 ounces per linear yard with a 0.047 to 0.057 inch of thickness, and elongation of 83 to 100 percent. The color shall be CG Blue 3362. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.1.

3.3.2.2.1 Colorfastness. The webbing shall show a minimum of “good” fastness to light

(20 hours), laundering and perspiration. Crocking shall show a minimum of 4.

3.3.2.3 Stay. The stay for the cap cover shall be made from polyethylene terephthalate plastic sheet conforming to MIL-P-55010, except the thickness shall be 0.009 (+/-

0.0015) inch, the color shall be natural (clear or opaque) and the transparency and optical properties shall not apply. The stay shall measure 1/2 inch wide and 4 inches in length when tested as specified in 4.4.1. Both ends shall be round.

3.3.2.4 Tape. The reinforcement tape for the cap cover shall conform to Type II, III, or

IV, Class 1 or 2 of A-A-52067. The color of the tape shall be white to approximate the shade of the outer fabrics, and shall be cut to finish 1/2 inch in width.

3.3.3 Mount and band.

3.3.3.1 Band, webbing. The webbing for the mount band shall measure 1 5/8 inches in width and conform to the webbing as specified in 3.3.2.2 and shall be sufficiently sized to fit snugly over cap and according to Table III.

3.3.3.2 Mount. The mount which is placed over the cap cover, shall be constructed of the materials specified below and in accordance with Table III. The finished design and dimensions of the metal insignia mounts shall be as shown in Figure 6.

3.3.3.2.1 Cloth, polyester/wool serge. The cloth used for the background on the metal insignia mounts shall conform to Type III, Class 3 of MIL-DTL-823. The color shall be

CG Blue 3362. The piece number for the standard sample is 80353.

3.3.3.2.2 Stay material. The stay material used in the construction of metal insignia mounts shall be of a flexible paperboard which has been impregnated with a minimum of

15 percent inert mineral filler. The paperboard shall be made of a cellulosic fiber, and shall finish with a thickness of 0.025 (+/- 0.001) inch and weight of 110.0 (+/- 5 percent) pounds per 1,000 square feet. The color shall be black. Testing shall be performed as specified in 4.4.1.

3.3.3.2.3 Leatherette. The leatherette used to back the metal insignia mounts shall be wither of fabric or paper base conforming to the requirements specified in 3.3.3.2.3.1 and

3.3.3.2.3.2.

3.3.3.2.3.1 Fabric base. The leatherette shall be made of any suitable woven of knitted cotton material, vinyl coated, and embossed with a simulated leather effect on one side only. The fabric shall have a finished weight of not less than 14 ounces per square yard, and shall show a minimum of “good” fastness to crocking and water. Testing shall be performed as specified in 4.4.1.

3.3.3.2.3.2 Paper base. The leatherette shall consist of a polyvinyl chloride film bonded or laminated to a latex impregnated (30-35 percent by weight) cellulose pulpboard sheet with a suitable adhesive. The polyvinyl chloride film shall be black in color, embossed on one side only, with a finished thickness of 0.009 (+/- 0.0005) inch. In addition, the polyvinyl chloride film shall show a minimum of “good” fastness to crocking and water.

The latex impregnated pulpboard sheet shall have a finished thickness of 0.030 (+/-

0.0015) inch. Testing shall be performed as specified in 4.4.1.

3.3.4 Thread.

3.3.4.1 Thread, nylon. The nylon thread for seaming and stitching the sweatband assembly to the cap frame shall conform to Class A, Type I, II, or III, Size E or Type IV, Size C of A-A-59826. The thread shall be dyed black or brown to approximate the shade of the sweatband and show “good” colorfastness to wet-dry cleaning and perspiration.

The nylon thread for seaming and stitching the band assembly to the flare of the cap cover and the reinforcement tape used for the crown piece of the cap cover shall conform to Type I, Class A, Size B, or Type OO, Class A, Size B of A-A-59826. The thread shall be white or neutral in color.

3.3.4.2 Thread cotton. The cotton thread used for seaming and stitching all parts of the cap frame and cap cover, except as specified in 3.3.4.1, shall conform to A-A-52094 in the following sizes:

Part Type Ticket Number Ply

Cap frame

I 30 3

II 24 4

III A, 00 3

Cap cover III 00, 000 3

Mount and band III 00 3

3.3.4.3 Thread, polyester core. As an alternate to the cotton thread, a polyester core thread conforming to Ticket No. 50, 2-ply of A-A-50199 may be substituted.

3.3.4.4 Color. The color of the thread used for the cap frame shall be dyed black, brown, or blue AT, Cable No. 66060 to match the material to which it is sewn. The color of the thread used for the crown and flare pieces of the cap cover shall be bleached white. The color of the thread used for the mount and band shall be Blue AT, Cable No. 66060.

3.3.4.5 Colorfastness. The dyed thread shall show fastness to light, laundering, perspiration, and wet-dry cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample when tested as specified in A-A-52094 or A-A-50199 as applicable. When a standard sample is not available, the dyed thread shall show a minimum of “good” fastness to light, laundering, perspiration, and wet-dry cleaning when tested as specified in A-A-52094 or A-A-50199, as applicable.

3.3.5 Labels.

3.3.5.1 Size label, stamped or paper. The stamped size label for the cap frame shall conform to Type IV, Class 2 of MIL-DTL-32075, except that only the size shall be designated and shall be of a pressure-sensitive adhesive type with the size number printed in black. The numerals shall not be less than 5/16 inch in height.

3.3.5.1.1 Special instruction label. A special instruction label shall be packaged with the cap frame as specified in 5.6.1. The label shall measure not less than 2 inches by 3 inches. The text shall be printed on one side only, in letters not less than 3/32 inch in height. Inscription shall be as follows:

IF THE CIRCUMFERENCE OF THE FRAME WIRE REQUIRES ADJUSTMENT TO

FIT THE CAP COVER, THE CLAMP SHALL BE LOOSENED AND RESECURED

TO THE PROPER SIZE.

3.3.5.2 Cap cover. Each cap cover shall have a cloth label woven or non-woven conforming to Type IV, Class 2, or Type VI or MIL-DTL-32075

3.3.5.3 Box. Each box shall have an identification label conforming to Type VII, Class 4 of MIL-DTL-32075, except the label shall bear the following inscription:

NAME:

SERVICE:

CAP, COMBINATION, MAN’S (CG)

CONTRACT NO:

STOCK NO: 8410-00-000-0000 (example)

SIZE: 20 (example)

NAME OF CONTRACTOR:

NAME OF MANUFACTURER: (If other than the contractor)

3.4 Design.

3.4.1 Cap frame. The cap frame shall have a circular inner headband, with crescent shaped embroidered cloth or porameric top visor centered at the front of the frame and a molded plastic front stand. A circular adjustable steel wire with attached vinyl crown protector is to be used to support the cap cover. Each cap frame shall have a chin strap attached to the cap with two insignia buttons inserted through lower sides of the headband into their respective screw tubes. Each screw tube shall be securely attached with a staple. The cap frame shall be so constructed that a removable cap cover of corresponding size may fit snugly over it.

3.4.2 Cap cover. The cap cover shall consist of a circular top piece, flared sides, and a band made of elastic webbing. One horizontal buttonhole shall be placed on each side of the band to correspond to the screw tubes on the cap frame (see Figure 5).

3.4.3 Mount and band. The mount shall consist of an impregnated paperboard stay inserted between an applicable background cloth and leatherette material. The background cloth shall cover the entire face and curved edge of the mount. The leatherette shall cover the entire back of the mount. The mount shall have perforations to correspond with the screw posts of the applicable metal insignia. The band shall consist of a 1 5/8 inch wide webbing, with one horizontal buttonhole on each side to correspond to the screw tubes on the cap frame and be sufficiently sized to fit over the cap cover.

3.5 Figures. Figures 1 thru 6 are furnished for informational purposes only. When inconsistencies exist between the written document and the figures, the written document shall govern.

3.6 Patterns. The patterns for cutting all parts of the cap frame, neither the Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way except that additional notches for use during construction are permitted on the working patterns. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the appearance, serviceability, or dimensional requirements as cited in the specification. They shall be of the proper proportions to provide good fitting cap frames conforming to the finished dimensions in Table I. Standard patterns for the cap cover will be furnished by the Government to the contractor for use in cutting his work patterns. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns.

The Government patterns allow 1/4 inch for seam allowances, except where otherwise specified in Table II.

3.6.1 Pattern parts. The component parts of the cap cover shall be cut from materials as specified and in accordance with the following pattern parts:

Material Nomenclature of Pattern Parts Cut Parts

Cloth, polyester twill

Crown 1

Half flare (front) 1

Quarter flare (back) 2

Fusible

Crown 1

Half flare (front) 1

Quarter flare (back) 2

3.7 Construction.

3.7.1 Stitches, seams, and stitching. Stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table

I, II, and III shall conform to FED-STD-751. Whenever two or more methods for seams or stitches are given for the same operation, any one of them may be used. Where Stitch

Type 101 or 401 is used, the chain or looper (underthread) shall be on the inside of the cap frame or cap cover. Unless otherwise specified, topstitching and edge stitching on cap cover shall be 1/16 inch from edge.

3.7.2 Stitches per inch. The maximum number of stitches per inch shall be as specified in Tables I, II, and III.

3.7.3 Thread breaks and ends of seams. Unless otherwise specified in Tables I, II, and

III, ends of all seams and stitching, when not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by starting the repair stitch not less than 1/2 inch in front of break. Stitch lines used on the circular sections of the cap frame must overlap 3/8 to 5/8 inch beyond the starting point or, if necessary, backstitched to prevent raveling. Skipped stitches or 401 stitch type thread breaks may be repaired by using 301 stitch type. Where Stitch Type 401 or 101 is permitted as an option, it shall not be used unless the ends are caught in other seams or stitching.

3.8 Manufacturing operations requirements. The cap frame, cap cover, mount, and band shall be manufactured in accordance with operation requirements specified in Tables I, II, and III. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence as shown. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the appearance, serviceability, or dimensional requirements cited in the document.

3.8.1 Pressing. All pressing operations referenced in Table II shall be performed by using a heated pressing iron or steam pressing machine.

3.8.2 Shade and size marking. The component parts of the cap covers shall be marked to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the cap cover. Any method may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices

b. Sew-on shade tickets

c. Adhesive type tickets which discolor or adhere to the material upon removal of tickets

3.9 Abbreviations in table of operations. The abbreviations used in Tables I, II, and III are as follows:

Stch Stitch

In Inch

Ndl Needle

Bob Bobbin

Lpr Looper

Mchne Machine

Brtck Bartack

Comrcl Commercial

Smlr Similar

Btnhl Buttonhole

Incl Including

Dbl Double

Chnstch Chainstitch

Emb Embroidered

TABLE I – CONSTRUCTION OF CAP FRAMES

NO.

OPERATION

STCH

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

INCH

THREAD

NDL

BOB LPR

1. Cutting.

a. Cut the component parts of the cap frame in strict accordance with the contractor’s patterns.

b. Cut the polyester/wool serge for the welt strip around the bottom of the inner band 2

(+ 1/8) inches in width (see 3.3.1.3.3).

c. Cut the material for the crown protector piece approximately 4 1/2 inches in width at the center, then tapering the sides down to approximately 1 1/2 inches wide at each end.

These crown protectors will vary in length, depending on cap size, so that they will not sag excessively in the finished cap (see

3.3.1.6 and Figure 1).

TABLE I – CONSTRUCTION OF CAP FRAMES - CONTINUED

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

INCH

THREAD

NDL

BOB LPR

d. Cut the vinyl film for the sweat-band welt 3/4 (+ 1/16) inch in width (see 3.3.1.5).

e. Cut the plastic sheeting (cellulose acetate or vinyl) for the card holder into strips approximately 2 inches in length by 3 inches in width (see 3.3.1.7).

f. Cut the grommet wire to the lengths specified in operation 13a (see 3.3.1.8.1).

g. Cut a piece of white vinyl coated fabric

(see 3.3.1.2.3) for binding the top edge of front stand 1 1/2 to 2 inches wide by 6 1/2 to

7 1/2 inches long.

2. Replacement of defective components.

During the spreading, cutting, and manufacturing process, components having material defects or damages that are classified as defects in Section 4, shall be removed from production and replaced with non-defective and properly matched components.

3. Make visor.

The finished visor shall be as shown in

Figure 2.

a. The type I visor shall be constructed as follows:

Emb

1) Top piece. Laminate the wool broadcloth or melton (see 3.3.1.1.1) to the reinforcement piece of the cloth, cotton twill (see 3.3.1.1.3) face side up with the adhesive specified in

3.3.3.1.1.7. To the wool broadcloth or

melton, stitch a gold metallic appliqué

(see 3.3.1.1.8 and Figure 2).

2) Laminate the embroidered top piece to the leather bottom piece with the adhesive specified in 3.3.1.1.7. Skive the assembled components 1/4 (+

1/16) inch along the inside end from tip to tip.

b. The type II visor shall be constructed as follows:

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

INCH

THREAD

NDL

BOB LPR

1) Top piece. Laminate the plastic porameric material (see 3.3.1.1.2) to the plumper paper (see 3.3.1.1.4) with the adhesive specified in 3.3.1.1.7.

2) Assembly. Laminate the top piece to the leather bottom piece with the adhesive specified in 3.3.1.1.7. Skive the assembled components 1/4 (+

1/16) inch along the inside end from tip to tip, from top side of visor.

c. For types I and II visors, stitch the visor binding (see 3.3.1.1.6) using black thread, around the outside edge 1/16 inch from the turned edge of binding on top of visor, and catching the other edge in the stitching on the bottom of the visor. The binding shall finish on the top of the visor 3/16 to 1/4 inch.

301 BSb-1 7-8 A/3 A/3

d. The finished visors for types I and II cap frames shall be properly molded with heat into a uniform crescent shape, and shall be of one size only with dimensions as follows:

1) Overall width of visor, before assembly, at center, 2 5/8 (+ 1/8) inches.

2) Depth of arc, at center of back edge, 2

7/8 (+ 1/8) inches.

3) Width of visor, after assembly, at center from front edge to lower edge of band, 2 1/4 (+ 1/4) inches.

4) Distance from left tip to right tip of visor before assembly, when spread flat shall be 8 (+ 1/8) inches.

5) Distance from left tip to right tip after assembly, at lower edge of headband, shall be 10 (+ 1/4) inches.

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

INCH

THREAD

NDL

BOB LPR

4. Inner band.

a. Overlap both ends of the high density polyethylene or the imitation (molded) polyethylene inner band, whichever is applicable, 1(+ 1/8) inch and with the top and bottom edges even, stitch overlapped ends of inner band from top to bottom catching the inside end of inner band 1/8 (+

1/16) inch from the edge.

As an alternate, overlap both ends of the applicable inner band 1 (+ 1/8) inch and secure with two staples. The first one approximately 3/8 inch from top edge and the second one approximately 3/4 inch down from top edge, each catching both plies of the inner band.

The two staples shall be horizontally positioned and secured through the solid non-perforated area of the overlapped inner band. The flat head side of staple shall be on the outside of inner band.

b. The overlapped ends of the inner band shall be positioned to the read portion avoiding the back seam.

c. The imitation (molded) inner band, when applicable and patterned on one side only, shall finish with the pattern side on the outside.

5. Crown protector.

a. Fold one end of the crown protector on itself, back to back and stitch or heat seal 5/8 to 3/4 inch from the folded edge forming a loop. Each end of stitch line shall be backtacked. A double row of stitching may be used in place of backstitching.

101 or

301 or

EFa-1 8-10 A/3

A/3 A/3

A/3 A/3

b. Position and center a 2 inch by 3 inch plastic card holder piece on the face side of the crown protector. Stitch or heat seal across the width and one side of the card holder forming a pocket approximately 1 3/4 inches on one side. The pocket opening may face towards either side of the cap frame.

101 or

301 or

A/3 A/3

A/3 A/3

A/3

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

INCH

THREAD

NDL

BOB LPR

6. Prepare and attach front stand.

a. Using a 1 1/2 to 2 inch wide by 6 1/2 to 7

1/2 inch long piece of white vinyl coated fabric cut in operation 1.g., bind the entire top edge of the molded front stand forming a

3/8 to 5/8 inch wide tunnel for inserting the grommet wire. The front free end of the crown protector piece shall be simultaneously folded over and caught in the stitching during this operation. As an alternate, the front free end of the crown protector piece may be folded over and stapled to the front stand.

301 or

BSc-1 8-10

24/4

A/3 or

30/3

24/4

A/3 or

30/3

b. Center the prepared molded front stand on the face side of the inner band, with the top center edge of the front stand positioned

2 1/4 to 2 1/2 inches above top edge of inner band. Secure bottom portion of the front stand to the inner band with 6 1/2 inch wide staples properly positioned for maximum holding power. If alternate one piece molded stay is used, secure front stand to the inner band with 4 1/2 inch wide staples properly positioned for maximum holding power.

Staples of sufficient length shall be clinched horizontal to the inner band margins and shall finish smooth and flat in the backside of the inner band. Staple a support piece (see

3.3.1.2.3) over the bottom portion of the front stand (see Figure 1).

or

As an alternate, a combination of stapling and stitching may be used to attach lower portion of front-stand to inner band.

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

INCH

THREAD

NDL

BOB LPR

c. The molded plastic front stand, before attachment to the frame, shall measure 6 1/2

(+ 1/4) inches in width along top edge, 3 3/4 to 4 1/2 inches in width along bottom edge, and 3 3/8 to 3 1/2 inches in height at center front.

or

If alternate one piece molded stay is used, it may measure 6 1/2 (+ 1/4) inches in width along top edge, 7 1/2 (+ 1/4) inches in width along bottom edge, and 3 3/4 to 4 inches in height at center front.

7. Make welt strip.

a. Overedge stitch the entire top of the 2 inch wide polyester/wool welt strip.

503 or

504 or

EFd-1 7-10 00/3 00/3

b. Join ends of welt strip 1/4 to 3/8 inch from welt edge, backtacking the ends of stitching. As an alternate to backtacking, two rows of superimposed stitching may be used.

101 or

301 or

SSa-1 12-14 A/3

A/3 A/3

A/3 A/3

c. Press seam open.

d. With the welt strip laid flat and seam face up, place a mark to indicate the center front.

e. Turn the welt strip so that the seam is on the inside.

f. Fold the welt strip lengthwise with the raw edge extending 1/2 (+ 1/16) inch beyond the overedged edge. The width of the overedge portion shall be 3/4 (+ 1/8) inch.

g. Form a permanent welt edge (sharp fold or tuck) in the lengthwise direction of the welt strip by stitching 1/16 inch from the foldline. The raised welt edge shall start on one side of the cap frame, approximately 5 inches back from front center of frame, continuing around the back of frame to the same position on the opposite side of frame.

101 or

301 or

OSe-1 12-14 A/3

A/3 A/3

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

INCH

THREAD

NDL

BOB LPR

8. Attach welt strip to inner band.

a. Position the prepared welt strip over the entire bottom edge of inner band with the welt strip joining seam at center back of inner band, and the raised welt edge of the strip positioned 1/4 to 5/16 inch above the bottom edge of the band on the outside.

b. Stitch the welt strip to the entire circumference of the inner band adjacent to the stitchline used to form the raised welt edge. The height of this stitchline shall remain the same when stitching across the front of the frame, where a welt edge is not required.

101 or

301 or

BSa-1 8-10 A/3

24/4 A/3 or

30/3

24/A A/3 or

30/3 c Stitch the top edge of the welt strip to the entire circumference of the inner band at the base of the overedge stitching.

101 or

301 or

LSa-1 8-10

(back-tacking not required)

A/3

24/4 A/3 or

30/3

24/A A/3 or

30/3

9. Attach button screw tube.

a. Punch a hole of proper diameter in each side of inner band and welt strip, with the center of hole 1/2 to 5/8 inch from bottom on inner band and 5 3/4 (+ 1/4) inches from center of cap frame to center of each hole.

b. Insert a button screw tube (see 3.3.1.9) through the button tube hole and secure to the inner headband with one heavy duty staple.

10. Attach visor.

a. Position the visor to the outside of inner band at center front and stitch 1/4 (+ 1/16) inch from the skived edge of visor and 1/4 (+

1/16) inch from the bottom edge of the inner band.

301 or

LSa-1 5-6 24/4 A/3 or

30/3

24/4 A/3 or

30/3

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

INCH

THREAD

NDL

BOB LPR

b. Attach foam insert. Position a 10-inch long piece of adhesive foam tape specified in

3.3.1.11 on the inside of the inner band directly above skived edge of visor from button screw tube to button screw tube.

11. Make sweatband.

a. The flesh or backside of the sheepskin or artificial leather sweatband shall have a combination identification and size label sewn (see 3.3.5.1.1) approximately 1 inch to the right or left of the center back seam. The top of lettering shall face towards the top edge of sweatband. The inscription shall not be obscured by the welting.

b. Fold the 3/4 inch wide strip of plastic welting in half length-wise. Position the bottom edge of sweatband 1/16 to 3/32 inch from the folded edge of welting. Position the combination label between the back-side of the sweatband and the folded edge of the welting as stated above. Stitch thru all plies.

304 - 7-10 A/3 A/3 or

30/3 30/3

c. Abut the ends of sweatband assembly and join with the seam reinforced with a 5/8 inch wide strip of lightweight coated or uncoated fabric.

304 FSe-1 7-10 A/3 A/3 or

30/3 30/3

12. Attach sweatband.

a. The back edge of visor shall be flanged upwards and set so as not to rub against the forehead when cap is worn.

b. Place the sweatband assembly on the inside of hat frame with folded edge of plastic welting positioned 1/8 to 3/16 inch above the bottom bound edge of inner band.

The joining seam of sweatband shall be positioned at center back of frame.

c. Stitch sweatband assembly to the inner band with stitching going thru the plastic welting adjacent to the bottom edge of sweatband.

301 - 7-10 A/3 A/3 or

30/3 30/3

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

INCH

THREAD

NDL

BOB LPR

d. Secure a size label (see 3.3.5.1.2) on the grain side of the sweatband positioned approximately 1 inch to the left or right of center back seam.

13. Attach grommet wire and crown protector.

a. Cut grommet wire (see 3.3.1.8.1) to the following lengths:

Size Length (inches)

6 1/2 thru 6 7/8 34 1/8

7 thru 7 1/4 35 1/4

7 3/8 thru 7 5/8 36 3/8

7 3/4 thru 8 37 1/2

Tolerance + 1/8 inch

b. Clinch the adjustable steel clamp (see

3.3.1.8.2) to one end of the cut size (length) of grommet wire.

c. Center and attach the properly sized length of grommet wire to top center of molded plastic front stand by threading free end of wire thru binding, crown protector loop, and adjustment clamp at other end of wire. Overlap the wire ends a minimum of one inch and clinch the clamp.

14. Assemble chin strap.

a. The finished length of the top and bottom slide shall be 9 1/2 (+ 1/4) inches. The width of the loops shall be the same as the width of the chin strap.

b. For bottom slide, position and staple closed one loop (2 staples) to the bottom slide at the edge.

c. For top slide, position and staple closed one loop (2 staples) to the top slide at the edge.

d. Insert the top slide thru the bottom slide loop and the bottom slide thru the top slide loop.

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

INCH

THREAD

NDL

BOB LPR

15. Cleaning.

a. Trim ends of stitching and remove all loose threads.

b. Remove all spots and stains.

TABLE II – CONSTRUCTION OF CAP COVERS

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER IN

THREAD

NDL

BOB LPR

1. Cutting.

a. The component parts of the cap cover shall be cut in strict accordance with the

Government furnished patterns which show size, shape, direction lines for cutting, and notches for proper assembly of the component parts.

b. All component parts shall be cut from one piece of the applicable basic cloth (see

3.3.2.1).

c. Cut fusible interlining material for each assembly consisting of 1 crown, 1 half flare

(front), and 2 quarter flares (back)

d. Cut webbing (see 3.3.2.2) in the

6 1/2, 6 5/8, 6 3/4, 6 7/8 22

7, 7 1/8, 7 1/4 23 1/2

7 3/8, 7 1/2, 7 5/8 24 1/2

7 3/4, 7 7/8, 8 25 1/2

Tolerance + 1/8 manufacturing process, components having material defects or damages that are classified as defects in Section 4, shall be removed from production and replaced with

TABLE II – CONSTRUCTION OF CAP COVERS – CONTINUED

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER IN

THREAD

NDL

BOB LPR

3. Shade and size marking (see 3.8.2).

a. All component parts shall be marked or ticketed to insure uniform shade and size throughout the cap cover.

b. The use of a rubber stamp or pencil is acceptable, provided the numbers are legible and do not show through on the outside of the cap cover.

4. Make band.

a. Join ends of webbing face to face, and stitch 1/4 (+ 1/16) inch from the raw edge.

301 LSq-2

(a)

8-10 00 00

b. Fold seams to one side and stitch 1/8 (+

1/16) inch from seam

301 LSq-2

(b)

10-14 00 00

c. Make a horizontal buttonhole in webbing on each side of cap crown, positioned 5-1/2

(+ 1/8) inches from the center front to center of buttonhole. The buttonhole shall be straight style 3/4 (+ 1/16) inch in length, and positioned 3/8 to 1/4 inch from the bottom edge of webbing to center of buttonhole.

The ends of each buttonhole shall be securely tacked.

Button

-hole

33-35 per button-hole

00 00 or none

1. Cutting.

a. The component parts of the cap cover shall be cut in strict accordance with the

Government furnished patterns which show size, shape, direction lines for cutting, and notches for proper assembly of the component parts.

b. All component parts shall be cut from one piece of the applicable basic cloth (see

3.3.2.1).

c. Cut fusible interlining material for each assembly consisting of 1 crown, 1 half flare

(front), and 2 quarter flares (back)

TABLE II – CONSTRUCTION OF CAP COVERS - CONTINUED

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER IN

THREAD

NDL

BOB LPR

d. Cut webbing (see 3.3.2.2) in the

6 1/2, 6 5/8, 6 3/4, 6 7/8 22

7, 7 1/8, 7 1/4 23 1/2

7 3/8, 7 1/2, 7 5/8 24 1/2

7 3/4, 7 7/8, 8 25 1/2

Tolerance + 1/8 manufacturing process, components having material defects or damages that are classified as defects in Section 4, shall be removed from production and replaced with

3. Shade and size marking (see 3.8.2).

a. All component parts shall be marked or ticketed to insure uniform shade and size throughout the cap cover.

b. The use of a rubber stamp or pencil is acceptable, provided the numbers are legible and do not show through on the outside of the cap cover.

4. Make band.

a. Join ends of webbing face to face, and stitch 1/4 (+ 1/16) inch from the raw edge.

301 LSq-2

(a)

8-10 00 00

b. Fold seams to one side and stitch 1/8 (+

1/16) inch from seam

301 LSq-2

(b)

10-14 00 00

c. Make a horizontal buttonhole in webbing on each side of cap crown, positioned 5-1/2

(+ 1/8) inches from the center front to center of buttonhole. The buttonhole shall be straight style 3/4 (+ 1/16) inch in length, and positioned 3/8 to 1/4 inch from the bottom edge of webbing to center of buttonhole.

The ends of each buttonhole shall be securely tacked.

Button

-hole

33-35 per button-hole

00 00 none

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER IN

THREAD

NDL

BOB LPR

5. Make flare.

a. Fuse crown and flare pieces

b. Join the ends of the three pieces of flare basic material, face to face, and stitch 1/4 (+

1/16) inch from the raw edge. Spread each seam open and press flat.

301 or

SSz-3

(a)

10-14 00 00

00 000

c. Double stitch each seam 3/16 to 1/4 inch gauge with the seam centered between the two rows of stitching

301 or

SSz-3

(b)

10-14 00 00

00 000

6. Join flare to crown piece.

a. Join flare assembly to crown piece, face to face, and stitch 1/4 (+ 1/16) inch from the raw edge. Spread seam open and press flat, with the flare seams centered at each side and at center back.

301 or

SSa-1 10-14 00 00

00 000

b. Position and center the bias cut reinforcement tape (see 3.3.2.4) over the entire length of the flare/crown piece joining seam. The raw edges of the tape may be turned under. Turn under the end of tape 1/4 to 1/2 inch and double stitch 3/16 to 1/4 inch gauge with the seam centered between the two rows of stitching, thru all plies finishing at center back, overlapping the tape not less than 1 1/2 inches.

301 or

SSa…