GL PD-13-04D Unisex Jacket 19 Oct 2017.pdf

INCH-POUND

GL-PD-13-04D

19 October 2017

SUPERSEDING

GL-PD-13-04C

13 December 2016

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

JACKET, UNISEX, ARMY PHYSICAL FITNESS UNIFORM

This Purchase Description is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense (DoD).

1. SCOPE.

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for one (1) type of jacket, physical fitness uniform that is intended for wear by personnel of the Army.

1.2 Sizes. The Unisex Jacket sizes will be as follows:

Schedule of Sizes

X-Short Short Regular Long X-long X-Small X-Small X-Small X-Small --- Small Small Small Small --- Medium Medium Medium Medium Medium --- Large Large Large Large --- X-large X-Large X-Large X-Large --- XX-Large XX-Large XX-Large XX-Large --- XXX-Large XXX-Large XXX-Large ---

Note: the above sizes may be abbreviated as XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: US Army Natick Solider Research, Development and Engineering Center, 10 General Greene Ave., Natick, MA

01760-5019 ATTN: RDNS-SEW-EWC.

FSC 8415

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 or 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements cited in sections 3 or 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government Documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL STANDARDS

FED-STD-4 - Glossary of Fabric Imperfections

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester Covered A-A-55126 - Fastener Tape, Hook and Loop, Synthetic A-A-55634 - Zippers (Fasteners, Slide Interlocking) A-A-59826 - Thread, Nylon

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusibles MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General Use) MIL-PRF-5038 - Tape, Textile and Webbing, Textile, Reinforcing Nylon

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://quicksearch.dla.mil )

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION (FTC)

Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act

(Copies are available online at http://www.ftc.gov) http://quicksearch.dla.mil/

PURCHASE DESCRIPTIONS

UQC S-15-02 - Cloth, Woven, Nylon, Coated

(Copies of this document are available through the contracting activity.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Test Method 8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method AATCC Test Method 16.3 - Colorfastness to Light: Xenon-Arc AATCC Test Method 22 - Water Repellency – Spray Test AATCC Test Method 61 - Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated AATCC Test Method 118 - Oil Repellency: Hydrocarbon Resistance Test AATCC Test Method 135 - Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Launderings AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale Rating AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles

(Copies of documents are available online at http://www.aatcc.org)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies are available online at http://www.asq.org)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D3774 - Standard Test Method for Width of Textile Fabric ASTM D3775 - Standard Test Method for Warp (End) and Filling (Pick) Count of Woven Fabrics ASTM D3776/D3776M - Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric ASTM D3787 - Standard Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textiles-

Constant Rate-of Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test ASTM D5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of

Textile Fabrics (Grab Test) ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams ASTM E96/E96M - Standard Test Methods for Water Vapor Transmission of

Materials

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://www.astm.org.)

http://www.aatcc.org/ http://www.asq.org/ http://www.astm.org/

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

Repeat Insult Patch Test – Modified Draize Procedure – Principles and Methods of Toxicology, A Wallace Hayes (editor), (Copies are available online at https://www.crcpress.com.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted here or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Inspections.

3.1.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.1.2 Conformance inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to conformance inspection in accordance with 4.3.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Standard sample. The finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance, and shall, unless otherwise indicated, be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced. (See 6.4)

3.3.1 Basic material. The finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance, and unless otherwise indicated, shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced. Standard sample may be obtained from the contracting activity.

3.3.2 Embroidered logo. The finished embroidery on left front shall match the embroidery file for size, stitch count, and finished appearance. Embroidery file may be obtained from the contracting activity. The gold color of the embroidery thread shall be a close match to Pantone 123C and the white shall be bright white.

3.4 Materials.

3.4.1 Basic material. The basic material for the jacket shall be a plain weave, 100 percent (%) nylon 6.6, 70 denier. The basic material shall be the color Army black 557. The material shall be treated with a Schoeller Nanosphere® technology (or equivalent) (see 6.6) for resistance https://www.crcpress.com/ to water and organic liquids, shall have quick drying moisture management capability, and shall conform to the requirements in Table I. Shade and finished seconds of the same basic material may be used for the elbow reinforcement patches only. Seconds shall be cloth which has been rejected for shade and finishing failures only, and shall meet all physical requirements specified for basic material when tested as specified in 4.4.2.1.

3.4.2 V-Stripe material. The basic material for the V-stripe trim material shall be a plain weave, 100 percent (%) nylon 6.6, 70 denier cloth with a polyurethane white pigment coating in accordance with UQC-S-15-02. The V-stripe material shall be cut in the bias direction and the color shall be Army gold 558.

TABLE I. Physical requirements for basic material.

Characteristic Requirement Weight, (oz./sq. yd.) 3.5 (± 0.3) Yarns per inch (minimum) Warp Filling

Breaking strength (pounds) (minimum)

Dimensional stability (percent) (maximum)

4.0

Colorfastness (minimum) Laundering (3 cycles) Color Change Staining Light (after 40 AFU or 170 kJ/m2nm@420 nm) 1/ Crocking Dry Wet

3.0

Water repellency, Spray test (minimum) Initial After 10 launderings After 100 launderings

Moisture vapor transmission rate (initial) (minimum) Inverted (g/sq.m2/2 hour) Upright (g/sq.m2/24 hour)

Oil Repellency-Hydrocarbon Resistance (minimum) Initial After 10 launderings After 100 launderings

1/ AFU: AATCC Fading Units

3.4.3 Lining. The lining for the jackets shall be nylon (mini-mesh). The color shall be black.

The material shall conform to the requirements in Table II when tested as specified in 4.4.2.2.

TABLE II. Physical requirements for lining.

Weight (oz./sq. yd.) 2.9 (± 0.2) Meshes per inch (minimum) Width Length

Bursting strength (pounds) (minimum) 120 Dimensional stability (percent) (maximum) Wales Courses

Colorfastness to laundering (3 cycles) (minimum) 4.0

The basic material and lining shall be tested for characteristics listed in Tables I and II. Sample unit shall be three (3) continuous yards full width. The lot shall be unacceptable if one (1) or more units or the lot average fail to meet any test requirement specified. The sample size shall be in accordance with the following:

LOT SIZE (Yards) SAMPLE SIZE (Sample Units) 800 or less 2 801 up to including 22,000 3 22,001 and over 5

3.4.4 Pocketing. The material for the front slash pockets shall be medium weight brushed fabric, machine washable and dryable, and suitable for the intended purpose. The color shall be black.

3.4.5 Interlining. The material for interlining the collar shall be nonwoven fusible, 2.0 (± 0.2) ounces per square yard and conform to Type V, VI, or VII, Class 1, 2, 3, or 4, style B in accordance with MIL-C-44296. The material for interlining the pocket welts and sleeve hems shall be 3.0 (± 0.2) ounces per square yard and conform to Type VIII, Class 2 or 4, style A in accordance with MIL-C-44296, except that it shall not have the fusible backing.

3.4.6 Cord, elastic (draw cord). The elastic draw cord shall be 1/8-inch (+ 1/32, -0) diameter.

The elastic cord properties shall be as follows: weight 0.20 oz/linear yard, elongation 120 (± 10) percent, 55 picks/inch minimum, 16 carriers; 12 elastic strands minimum and polyester cover yarn. The color shall be black. The ends shall be heat cut to prevent raveling. The draw cord shall be of sufficient length to allow for a 1-inch (± 1/4) loop to extend from each barrel lock and shall not cause jacket hem to gather/pucker when relaxed. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.3.

3.4.7 Fastener tape, hook and loop. The hook and loop fastener tape shall conform to Type II, Class 1 of A-A-55126. As an alternate Type II, Class 3 may be used. The width of the hook and loop tape shall be 3/4-inch. The length of the hook tape shall be 1-1/2-inches (± 1/8). The length of the loop tape shall be 4-inches (± 1/8). The color shall be black.

3.4.8 Tape, webbing. The webbing tape for barrel locks keeper and slash pocket pull tab thongs shall be nylon in accordance with MIL-PRF-5038, Type III, Class 2, except that the width shall be 1/4 (± 1/16) inch. As an alternate the tape may be polyester, 1/4 (± 1/16) inch wide. The color shall be black.

3.4.9 Slide fasteners/zippers. The slide fasteners/ zippers shall conform to A-A-55634, and the color of the chain, tape, slider and pull of all slide fasteners shall be black. The slide fasteners for the jacket front closure shall conform to Type III, size 5-7, Style 8. The separating unit shall be left hand, plastic, individual element chain with a 100 pound (average) crosswise breaking strength, single locking slider, with a short tab pull. The pull tab shall be approximately 7/8- inches in length and a minimum of 1/2-inch in width with a hole opening of no less than 3/8-inch to accommodate a zipper thong. The front slash pocket slide fasteners shall conform to Type I, size 5-7, style 3, plastic, individual element chain, with a short tab pull.

3.4.10 Slide fastener/zipper thongs.

3.4.10.1 Front closure. The zipper for the front opening shall be furnished with a one (1) piece injection molded pull tab, ITW Nexus GT Alpha Zipline style 864-0200A (or equivalent).

The pull tab shall be capable of 80 pound tensile loads. The color shall be black. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.3.

3.4.10.2 Slash pockets. The slash pocket zipper thong for the pull tab shall be a 1/4-inch wide webbing tape as specified in 3.4.8. The tape shall be heat cut to prevent raveling. The thong shall be placed through the pull tab, folded in half and tacked with a 1/2-inch vertical bartack. The thong shall finish 1-1/2 (± 1/8) inches in length.

3.4.11 Barrel lock. The barrel locks for the waist draw cord shall maintain a 3-pound minimum holding strength on elastic cord (see 3.4.6) when tested in accordance with 4.4.2.3.

The barrel lock shall be 1/2-inch x 3/8-inch elliptical push button type to easily operate with gloves. The barrel lock shall also provide/possess a separate fixed location for attachment of the keeper. The color shall be black. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.3.

3.4.12 Barrel lock keeper. The keeper for attaching the barrel lock shall be 1/4-inch width webbing tape as specified in 3.4.8 sewn to the inside of the jacket, at the hem, within the side seams. The keeper shall be of sufficient length to measure 1/2-inch (± 1/8) when threaded through the barrel lock.

3.4.13 Cannon clip. The waist adjustment assembly shall have a ITW Nexus Cannon Clip part #743-0125 (or equivalent) attached to the loop of draw cord that passes through the barrel lock to prevent the draw cord from coming free of the barrel lock.

3.4.14 Thread. The thread for all seaming and stitching shall be polyester core, cotton or polyester-covered in accordance with A-A-50199, Type I or II, Tex Size 30-35. As an alternate, nylon thread in accordance with A-A-59826, Type I or II, Tex Size 30-32, (Government Size AA), Class B non-wicking. The color of the thread shall be a good match to the basic material except for the top stitching of the V-stripe, which shall be a good match to the gold material. All thread shall be non-staining and the requirements in each Commercial Item Description (CID) shall apply.

3.4.15 Seams and stitching. Stitch, seam and stitching types shall conform to the requirements of ASTM D6193. All stitching shall be 10-12 stitches per inch. Armhole seams, collar, shoulder darts and pocket openings shall be topstitched. There shall be no visible splice/joining seams of the V-stripe material. The mitered seams of the V-striping shall match (±1/8) inch. The pocket openings shall be topstitched and bartacked at the top and bottom. All seams that junction shall meet within 1/4-inch. The stitching for the jacket hem shall finish 1-inch (±1/8) from the bottom of the jacket. The stitching for the sleeve hem shall finish 1-inch (±1/8) from the bottom edge of sleeve. The two (2) front slash pockets shall each have two (2) welts measuring 7-1/4-inches (±1/8) long by 1/4-inch (±1/8) wide, with a horizontal bartack at the top and bottom of each welted opening. The slide fastener shall not be exposed when closed.

The distance from the top edge of collar to top of slide fastener shall not be more than 1/4-inch.

Top edges of collar shall be even (± 1/8-inch). To hold the lining in place, the lining and shell seam allowances shall be secured at the underarms with a back stitch. Repairs such as mends, darns, patches or splices are not permitted on jacket. All topstitching shall finish 1/16-inch from folded edge. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Seams required to be forced out, and having a depth between the fold of 1/8-inch or more shall be considered a defect.

3.4.16 Sewn eyelets. There shall be four (4) sewn eyelets at each underarm, two (2) on the sleeve below the armhole seam; one (1) on each side of sleeve seam and two (2) on the body below the armhole seam; one (1) on each side of side seam. There shall also be four (4) eyelets on the inner part of hem; two (2) at each side seam, to accommodate draw-cord. The sewn eyelets shall be 3/8-inch with a 1/8-inch opening.

3.4.17 Bartacks. Horizontal bartacks shall be located at the bottom, on each side of the center front zipper superimposed over the stitching line of the hem, and at the top and bottom of the slash pocket welts superimposed over the top stitching. There shall be one (1) vertical bartack on each zipper thong positioned in the center of the thong. The bartacks shall measure 1/2-inch (± 1/16) in length, 1/16-inch (± 1/32) wide. Each bartack shall consist of not less than 28 stitches and be free from thread breaks and loose stitching.

3.5 Labels. Each jacket shall contain a size label, identification label and care instruction label. The size and identification label may be combined or the identification and care instruction label may be combined. A 2-inch by 2-1/2-inch label shall be sewn on all four (4) sides onto the lining positioned at the center back 1-5/8-inches (±1/4) below the lining/collar joining seam and the stitching shall not penetrate the printing. The label shall show no signs of fading or delamination through 50 laundering cycles when laundered in accordance with AATCC 135, Table I, method 3, III, A, iii. A 2-inch by 3-inch white, blank rectangular label shall be sewn on all four (4) sides into the right front pocket.

3.5.1 Size label. The size label shall conform to Type VI, Class 2 of MIL-DTL-32075 and shall be applied to the lining in the center back 1-5/8 (± 1/4) inches below the lining/collar joining seam.

3.5.2 Combination size/identification label. The combination label shall conform to Type VI, Class 14 of MIL-DTL-32075 and shall be sewn on all four (4) sides onto the lining positioned at the center back 1-5/8-inches (±1/4) below the lining/collar joining seam. The label shall contain the following information:

SIZE

NSN

CONTRACT NUMBER

JACKET, UNISEX, ARMY PHYSICAL FITNESS UNIFORM (APFU)

100% NYLON

CONTRACTOR’S NAME

3.5.3 Combination identification/care instruction label. The combination label shall conform to Type VI, Class 15, of MIL-DTL-32075 and shall be sewn to the lining in the center back 1-5/8 (± 1/4) inches below the lining/collar joining seam. The label shall be stitched on all four (4) sides and the stitching shall not penetrate the printing. The label shall contain the following information:

JACKET, UNISEX, ARMY PHYSICAL FITNESS UNIFORM (APFU)

100% NYLON

CONTRACTOR’S NAME

CARE INSTRUCTIONS:

Machine Wash Cold with like colors in mild detergent; Permanent Press cycle; Cold Rinse;

Tumble Dry Low

DO NOT USE BLEACH, FABRIC SOFTENER, OR DRYER SHEETS, DO NOT IRON, DO

NOT DRY CLEAN

3.5.4 Bar code label/hang tag. Each jacket shall be individually bar coded with a paper label/ hangtag for personal clothing items. The paper tag shall be standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 100-pounds. The paper used for the tags shall have a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a hole and shall be attached to each item by a fastener. The tags shall be clearly legible and readable by a scanner. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit National Stock Number (NSN). There shall be a 12 digit Universal Product Code (UPC) number assigned for all NSNs by the contracting activity. The initials “UPC” must appear beneath the code. The bar code for NSN and UPC type shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so that it is completely visible on the jacket when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and shall cause no damage to the jacket. This UPC code must also be placed on all shipping cartons on which the NSN appears.

3.6 Design. The jacket shall be black in color, fully lined, with long raglan style sleeves, and a stand-up interlined collar. The jacket shall have a draw cord hem with two (2) barrel locks for adjustability. The sleeves shall have internal elbow patches and a tab with hook and loop wrist closure (see figures 3 and 4). The jacket shall have a full front opening slide fastener furnished with an easy grip plastic thong, front double welted slash pockets with slide fasteners, slide fastener thongs and underarm venting. The jacket shall be trimmed with gold material, 2 (±1/8) inches wide, forming a V-stripe from armhole to armhole across the front, across the width of both sleeves, and forming a V-stripe across the back, similar in size to the front V-stripe. The upper left front shall have the U.S. ARMY Star (logo) embroidered above the V-stripe.

3.6.1 Placement of embroidery. The embroidered U.S. Army Star logo shall be placed on the upper left front as worn (see figures 2 and 3). Placement instructions are for cut pieces. For correct placement the logo shall be embroidered on cut pieces prior to sewing operations as follows: for the vertical placement, the bottom of the embroidery shall be 1/2 the distance between the neck edge and the top notch of the V-stripe and the horizontal placement shall be 3- 1/4 (± 1/8) inches from the center front. The bottom corner of the outside border stitching shall be no closer than 1/4-inch from the top of the V-stripe (see figure 2). All thread ends that are visible on the item shall be trimmed to a length of not more than 1/4-inch.

3.7 Figures. Figures 1 through 4 are furnished for information purposes only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written purchase description and the figures, the written purchase description shall govern.

3.8 Patterns. The Government shall furnish a complete set of patterns which provide for an allowance of 1/2-inch for all seams except for the collar joining seam which is 3/8-inch. The Government patterns may be used to create the contractor’s working patterns. Minor modifications are permitted to accommodate automatic equipment; however the design and all finished measurements must be maintained as specified by the Government.

3.8.1 List of pattern parts. The components of the jacket shall be cut from materials specified in accordance with the number of parts listed in Table III.

THIS SECTION IS INTENTIONALLY LEFT BLANK

TABLE III. List of pattern parts.

Pattern Nomenclature Computer Nomenclature Cut parts

Basic Material Back PD13_04-BK 1 Front Right PD13_04-FRONT_RIGHT

Front Left PD13_04-FRONT_LEFT

Elbow Patch PD13_04-ELBOW_PATCH

Collar PD13_04-COLLAR

Sleeve PD13_04-SLEEVE

Sleeve Tab PD13_04-SLEEVE_TAB

Welt PD13_04-WELT

Back Hem Facing PD13_04-BACK_FACING

Front Hem Facing PD13_04-FRONT_FACING

V-Stripe Material Back V PD13_04-BACK_V

Front V PD13_04-FRONT_V

Sleeve V PD13_04-SLEEVE_V

Lining Material Back Lining PD13_04-BACK_LINING

Front Lining PD13_04-FRONT_LINING

Sleeve Lining PD13_04-SLEEVE_LIN

Pocketing Material Back Pocket Bag PD13_04-BACK_POCKET

Top Pocket Bag PD13_04-TOP_POCKET

Interlining Material - Fusible Collar PD13_04-COLLAR_INT

Interlining Material – Non-Fusible Embroidery patch

PD13_04-EMB_PATCH

Welt PD13_04-WELT_INT

Sleeve hem No pattern piece

3.8.2 Finished measurements. The finished jackets shall conform to the finished measurements in Table IV when measured as specified in Table V.

TABLE IV. Finished measurements (inches).

Sizes 1/2

Chest (A)

Armhole seam (B)

1/2 Sleeve Opening

(C)

Sweep (Relaxed)

(D)

Center Front Collar Height (E)

Center Back Collar

Height (F) X-Small 23-1/2 12-5/8 5-1/2 20 2 2-1/2 Small 25-1/2 13-1/2 5-1/2 22 2 2-1/2 Medium 27-1/2 14-3/8 5-3/4 24 2 2-1/2 Large 29-1/2 15-1/4 5-3/4 26 2 2-1/2 X-Large 31-1/2 16-1/8 6 28 2 2-1/2 XX-Large 33-1/2 17 6 30 2 2-1/2 XXX-Large 35-1/2 17-7/8 6-1/4 32 2 2-1/2 Tolerance ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/4 ± 1/2 ± 1/4 ± 1/4

TABLE IV. Finished measurements (inches). – Continued

Back Length (G) Under Sleeve (H)

Size X-Short Short Regular Long X-Long X-Short Short Regular Long X-Long X-Small 25 26 27 28 --- 18-1/8 19-5/8 21-1/8 22-5/8 --- Small 26 27 28 29 --- 18-7/8 20-3/8 21-7/8 23-3/8 --- Medium 27 28 29 30 31 19-5/8 21-1/8 22-5/8 24-1/8 25-5/8 Large --- 29 30 31 32 --- 21-1/4 22-3/4 24-1/4 25-3/4 X-Large --- 30 31 32 33 --- 21-3/8 22-7/8 24-3/8 25-7/8 XX-Large --- 31 32 33 34 --- 21-1/2 23 24-1/2 26 XXX-Large --- 31 32 33 --- --- 21-5/8 23-1/8 24-5/8 --- Tolerance ±1/2 ±1/2

TABLE V. Method of measuring (with jacket lying flat).

Location Method

A 1/2 Chest With jacket fully zipped measure at base of armhole, flat across the chest from folded edge to folded edge.

B Armhole seam Measure front armhole seam from neck seam to base of armhole.

C 1/2 Sleeve opening

With sleeve opening relaxed measure from folded edge to folded edge across bottom of sleeve.

D Sweep Measure across bottom of jacket with elastic waist lying flat, relaxed, from folded edge to folded edge.

E Center Front Collar Height

Measure from base of collar to top of collar at center front.

F Center Back Collar Height

Measure from base of collar to top of collar at center back

G Back length Measure from collar joining seam to jacket bottom H Under sleeve Measure from base of armhole to end of sleeve

3.9 Toxicity. The finished jacket and components shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.6.

Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

3.10 Workmanship. After completion of the final assembly, the jacket shall be thoroughly cleaned and all thread scraps, lint and foreign matter shall be removed and all closures engaged prior to packaging. The jacket shall be uniform in quality and shall be free from irregularities or defects which could adversely affect fit, performance, reliability or durability. The jacket shall conform to the quality established by this purchase description.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

c. Component and end item inspections (see 4.4.1)

4.2 First article inspection. A first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1.1, shall be inspected for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship and dimensional requirements in Table IV. The presence of excessive defects, as defined by contract (see 6.2) or failure to pass any test shall be cause for rejection of the first article. The sample size will be specified in the procurement document (see 6.2). The sample unit shall be one (1) jacket and the lot size shall be expressed in units of jackets.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection (see 3.1.2) shall include the examination of 4.4 and the tests of 4.4 through 4.6 as applicable. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 and with acceptance quality limits (AQL) as specified in the contract and/or order, except where otherwise indicated (see 6.2).

4.4 Inspection conditions. Unless otherwise specified, all inspections shall be performed in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents, unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this specification or applicable procurement documents (see 6.2).

4.4.1 Component and end item inspections. In accordance with 4.3, components and end items shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this document or applicable procurement documents. The Government reserves the right to inspect and test all components and end items to determine conformance to requirements.

4.4.2 Component testing.

4.4.2.1 Basic material. The basic material physical requirements shall be verified by the test methods specified in Table VI.

TABLE VI. Physical requirements for basic material.

Paragraph Test Method

Weight, (oz./sq. yd.) 3.4.1, 3.4.2 & Table I

ASTM D3776/D3776M

Option C

Yarns per inch Warp Filling

3.4.1, 3.4.2 & Table I

ASTM D3775

Breaking strength (pounds) Warp Filling

3.4.1, 3.4.2 & Table I

ASTM D5034

Dimensional stability (percent) Warp Filling

AATCC 135 1/

Colorfastness to Laundering, after three (3) cycles Color change & staining Light (after 40 AFU or 170 kJ/m2nm@420 nm) Crocking (Dry/wet)

AATCC 61 Test 1A 2/

AATCC 16.3 3/ & 4/

AATCC 8 5/

Water repellency (minimum) Initial After 10 launderings After 100 launderings 6/

AATCC 22

TABLE VI. Physical requirements for basic material. – Continued

Paragraph

Test Method

Moisture vapor transmission rate 7/ Inverted (g/sq.m2/2 hour, initial) Upright (g/sq.m2/24 hour, initial)

3.4.1 & Table I ASTM E96/E96M Test “BW” 8/ Test “B” 9/

Oil Repellency-Hydrocarbon Resistance Initial After 10 launderings After 100 launderings 6/

AATCC 118

1/ Laundering and drying conditions using AATCC 135, Table I, method 3, III, A, iii.

2/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change and AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining.

3/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change 4/ AFU AATCC Fading Units 5/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale 6/ Testing shall be conducted initially and post 100 laundering cycles to be performed once per contract. Testing shall be conducted initially and post 10 laundering cycles for every lot.

7/ Temperature and humidity conditions of 73.5°F (±1ºF) and 50 (±2) percent relative humidity. The linear air flow velocity in the wind tunnel shall be set to yield an upright, ‘open cup’ evaporation rate at all test specimen positions of 15,000 (±1000) g/m2/24hours. The evaporation rate shall be determined by conducting an upright cup, Procedure B test, without a test specimen for a period of exactly two (2) hours. For specimen testing using Procedure BW, the ‘open cup’ evaporation rate shall be determined in the air stream at a level not more than three (3) inches below the position of the inverted cup test specimen.

8/ Procedure BW. The back side of the basic material shall face the water. The test specimen shall be set-up in the test cup with water level of 3/4-inch (±1/16) below the specimen surface.

The cup shall be inverted bringing the water in contact with the back side of the test specimen;

the test specimen shall be conditioned in this manner for five (5) minutes. At the end of the conditioning period, the cup and test specimen shall be examined for evidence of water leakage at cup edges or through holes/pinholes in the test specimen; if a leak occurs, the test specimen shall be discarded and the test cup shall be set up with a new test specimen. The cup shall be immediately weighed and placed in the wind tunnel to start the test and removed and weighed again after exactly two (2) hours to complete the test. Five (5) specimens shall be tested.

9/ Procedure B. The back side of the basic material shall face the water. The test specimen shall be conditioned, after set-up in the test cup with water level of 3/4-inch (±1/16) below the specimen surface, in the wind tunnel for a period of not less than four (4) hours and not more than 16 hours (Conditioning time of less than four (4) hours may be used provided that equilibrium conditions have be demonstrated to exist within the test sample/sample cup/wind tunnel. In cases of dispute, the conditioning time shall be four (4) hours). After conditioning, the cup shall be immediately weighed to start the test and again after exactly 24 hours to complete the test. Five (5) specimens shall be tested.

4.4.2.2 Lining material. The lining material physical requirements shall be verified by the test methods specified in Table VII.

TABLE VII. Physical requirements for lining.

Weight (oz./sq. yd.) 3.4.3 Table II ASTM D3776/D3776M Option C

Meshes per inch Width Length

3.4.3 Table II

Visual 1/

Bursting strength (pounds) 3.4.3 Table II ASTM D3787 Dimensional stability (percent) Wales Courses

AATCC 135 2/

Colorfastness to laundering, after three (3) cycles Color change and staining

AATCC 61 Test 1A 3/

Color 3.4.3 Visual 1/ Three (3) specimen in each direction per sample unit.

2/ Laundering and drying conditions using AATCC 135, Table I, method 3, III, A, iii 3/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change and AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2,Gray Scale for Staining.

4.4.2.3 Component testing. The components as referenced below in Table VIII physical requirements shall be verified by the test methods specified in Table VIII.

TABLE VIII. Physical requirements of components.

Cord, elastic (Drawcord) Width/diameter Weight (oz/lin. yd.)

Elongation Picks/inch # of carriers Ends/per carrier # of strands Color

3.4.6 Visual/micrometer

ASTM D3776/D3776M

1/

ASTM D3775

Visual Visual Visual Visual

Barrel Lock Holding Strength Color

3.4.11 2/ Visual

1/ Elastic cord elongation test. Cut a 14-inch specimen from a representative sample cord and make two (2) marks on the cord so that a distance of 10-inches is between the gauge marks. Suspend the cord from a clamp in such a manner as to allow a 2-pound weight to be hung on the lower end of the cord. Gradually lower the weight until the entire load is carried by the cord. After two (2) minutes, take a measurement between the two (2) marks and calculate the increase in length as follows:

Elongation (%) = B-A x 100 A

Where: A = Initial measurement B = Measurement of elongation at 2 pounds

2/ At 2-inches per minute, either pull-up cord on stationary engaged cord-lock or vice-versa.

4.5 Examination.

4.5.1 End item examination. The finished examination sample size, acceptance quality limits (AQL) and acceptance criteria shall be specified in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

4.5.2 End item visual examination. Each jacket shall be subjected to visual examination. All defects shall be scored in accordance with Table IX which are clearly noticeable at normal viewing and affect serviceability and appearance of the jacket. Material defects are defined in Section 1 of FED-STD-4. If needed, closer inspection will be performed to verify compliance to specification requirements.

4.5.2.1 Visual examination defects. The jacket shall be examined for the defects as listed below in Table IX.

THIS SECTION IS INTENTIONALLY LEFT BLANK

TABLE IX. Defects.

Examination

Defect

Classification

Major Minor Material Defects and damages

Any smash, multiple float or loose slub Cut, tear, mend, burn, needle chew, or hole Misweave, area of poor dye penetration, dyestreak, broken or missing yarn, visible mend, thin place or shade bar 1/

Cleanliness

Any spot, streak, or stain of a permanent nature on any portion of garment which would be visible when the garment is worn.

Removable spot, streak, or stain on outside of garment Thread ends not trimmed throughout garment Any holding or basting threads visible on outside of the finished garment, when applicable

Component and assembly

Any defective component 1/ Any component part omitted Any required operation omitted or improperly performed 1/

Drawcord Any drawcord caught in hem or tunnel stitching restricting use of drawcord Any drawcord omitted Any barrel lock omitted

Drawcord -continued

Any drawcord insufficient in length causing jacket to not lie smooth and flat when relaxed, or having excess length.

Embroidery Design

Any design incorrect or missing, poorly defined, distorted or misshaped.

Unrelated colors of yarn visible on face, surface yarns loose, tight or shifted, bunched, kinked or tangled yarns on face.

Finished height or width of design not as specified.

Any component part not securely attached or stitched.

Position not as specified Distance from top edge to fold and bottom edge to fold differs by more than 1/8 inch

Slide fasteners Any part of slide fastener bent, broken, otherwise defective

Not closing as specified Length not as specified Color not as specified Thong not as specified Position not as specified

TABLE IX. Defects. - Continued

Major Minor

Wrist tabs Missing Improperly located 1/

Labels

Missing, illegible, or incorrect Incorrectly placed or attached

Accuracy of seaming

Seam twisted, pleated, seaming or puckered 1/ Part of garment caught in any unrelated operation or stitching 1/ Thread break secured by stitching back of the break less than 1/2-inch Ends of all seams and stitchings when not caught in other seams or stitching, uneven or backtacked less than 1/2-inch Thread color not as specified Gage of stitching uneven or not as specified V-stripe miters misaligned by more than 1/8 inch

Open seams More than 1/8-inch up to 1/4-inch

More than 1/4-inch

NOTE: One (1) or more broken or two (2) or more continuous skipped or run-off stitches constitute an open seam. On double stitched seams, a seam is considered open when one (1) or both sides of the seam are open. Raw edge not securely caught in stitching shall be classified as an open seam

Seams and stitching

Not specified seam or stitch type Missing, broken or skipped stitches 1/

Stitch Tension Loose tension in any area:

- more than 1-inch but not more than 2-inches

- more than 2-inches Tight tension (stitches break when normal strain is applied to the seam or stitching) Missing, broken, or skipped stitches 1/

Major Minor Stitches per inch (to be scored only when the condition exists on major portion of the seam)

Less than minimum specified:

- one (1) stitch

- two (2) or more stitches More than maximum specified

Pocket welts Welts attached crookedly, uneven i.e. zipper visible when closed Welts poorly shaped or not covering zipper Welts uneven in width by more than 1/8-inch

Repairs More than five (5) repairs on any one (1) item 130 231 Shaded Part Variation in shade within an outside part 1/

Any part required to be cut from one piece on material shaded 1/

NOTE: Parts suspected as being shaded shall be examined at a distance of three (3) feet against the background of the other parts and colors of the garment.

When the shade difference is readily discernible under these examining conditions, it shall be scored as a shaded part.

Lengths of front

Collar height uneven by 1/4-inch or more at neck when fastened Hem uneven by 1/4-inch or more at bottom when fastened

Bartacks Bartack omitted Any bartack not in specified location, insecure, or not serving intended purpose:

- more than two (2)

- two (2) or less Any loose stitching, incomplete or broken Length or width not as specified

Major Minor Label/tag Barcode omitted or not readable by scanner

Human-readable-interpretation (HRI) omitted or illegible Not attached to location specified Causes damage to the garment

Fastener tape hook & loop

Not properly placed Not specified length

Packaging Any items not packaged in accordance with the contract or purchase order. 1/

1/ This defect shall be scored as major when seriously affecting serviceability and as minor when affecting serviceability but not seriously.

4.5.3 Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the cloths shall match the standard sample when viewed using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option A, with sources simulating artificial daylight D75 illuminant with a color temperature of 7500K (± 200) illumination of 100 (±20) foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent A illuminant with a color temperature of 2856K (± 200).

4.5.4 Finished measurements. The finished measurements as specified in 3.8.2 shall be verified by measuring the garment according to the method in Table V.

4.6 Toxicity test. When required, (see 6.2), an acute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted on laboratory animals. When the results of these studies indicate the slacks are not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in accordance with the Modified Draize Procedure (see 2.3). If the toxicity requirement (see 3.9) can be demonstrated with historical use data, toxicity testing may not be required (see 6.2).

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When actual packaging of material is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain requisite packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Department or Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD- ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The Unisex Jacket is for wear by military personnel in the United States Army as part of a physical fitness uniform.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number, and date of this Purchase Description.

b. Size required (see 1.2)

c. The specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2).

d. When first article is required (see 3.1.1, 4.2 and 6.3).

e. Conformance inspection acceptance quality limits (AQL) (see 3.1.2 and 4.3)

f. Inspection conditions (see 4.4)

g. When toxicity testing is required (see 3.9 and 4.6)

h. Packaging (see 5.1).

6.3 First article. When a first article inspection is required (see 3.1.1), it will be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisions of FAR 52.209-4. The first article should be a preproduction sample. The contracting officer should specify the appropriate type of first article and the number of units to be furnished. The contracting officer should include specific instructions in acquisition documents regarding arrangements for selection, inspection, and approval of the first article.

6.4 Standard sample. For access to samples and pattern drawings, address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal.

6.5 Subject term (key word) listing.

Athletic wear Clothing Coat Windbreaker

6.6 Equivalent item. Equivalent is defined as matching performance, aesthetics, weight and appearance. Prior to use of “or equivalent” item, the contractor shall submit the item with supporting data to the contracting office for subsequent approval or disapproval by the responsible military agency.

Dimensions: 2-inches wide X 2-1/2-inches high (± 1/16)

FIGURE 1. U.S. ARMY Star Embroidered logo.

Note: logo is shown in black for illustration purposes only

FIGURE 2. Placement of embroidery for Jacket, Unisex, Army Physical Fitness Uniform.

1/2 distance from A to B (± 1/2)

3-1/4 (± 1/4)

Note: On the finished garment the embroidery shall be positioned 2-3/4 (± 1/4) inches from folded edge.

Distance from top of embroidery to front edge and distance from bottom of embroidery to front edge shall not differ by more than 1/8-inch.

A

B

C D

Illustrations depict placement of embroidery on cut pieces prior to assembly.

FIGURE 3. Front view, Jacket, Unisex, Army Physical Fitness Uniform.

FIGURE 4. Back view, Jacket, Unisex, Army Physical Fitness Uniform.

CUSTODIAN: PREPARING ACTIVITY:

Army – GL DLA – GL