GENERAL_JUMPSUIT_SPECS3.pdf

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JUMPSUIT/BIBBER SPECIFICATIONS

1. GENERAL

Jumpsuits/bibbers are special marching band construction and design, and shall not employ fashion tailoring techniques, materials or patterns that will not withstand the rigorous end use of band uniforms. Fashion pocketing, waistband material and construction, lightweight snaps and hooks are not acceptable.

2. PATTERNS

A. The patterns and style must be in keeping with the end use of marching, with maximum capability to be adjusted for fitting a variety of wearers from year-to-year.

B. They must have ample room for movement and be nonrestrictive for marching, in the seat, thigh and ankle area. The dimensions of a jumpsuit/bibber for a 38 regular male, shall not be less than 20 1/2” circumference at cuff and 26” at thigh.

C. There are both male and female patterns.

D. There are two (2) rear waist darts to reduce fullness from the seat to the waist. Seat shaping is accomplished by the pattern, not extended waist darts.

Front darts are optional.

3. FRONT CLOSURE

A. There are two stainless snaps at the top of the fly. Jumpsuits/bibbers with merely one

(1) snap at closure are unacceptable.

B. The fly zipper is brass “Y.K.K." with a double locking slide. There is a metal stop at the base of the fly zipper. The fly teeth will extend completely up under the waistband to prevent the slide from coming off the top of the zipper. Short zippers with teeth not extending under waistband are not acceptable.

C. The outside fly consists of the outer shell fabric, an inner layer of shell fabric, and a middle reinforcing layer of non-woven fabric. The lateral edge of shell fabric on the inside of this fly assembly is completely bound with a polyester bias tape.

D. The inside fly is constructed with a layer of outer shell fabric having two layers of

“four way” fabric sewn to the inside. The “four way” material is 80/20 polycotton, 100% poly fill, 3.5 yards per pound, with a pre-cured finish. This inside fly extends down into the four-way crotch and finishes approximately 1 ¼” beyond the four-way.

This fly lining is stitched down on both edges, to prevent “rolling”.

NOTE: Both the outside fly and the inside fly have three layer construction.

E. There are two vertical bar tacks on the inside fly lining and one vertical bar tack on the outside of the base of the fly ¾” up from the bottom of the fly. The purpose of the

J-2 outside bar tack is to eliminate stress on the zipper track and to prevent tearing when the trousers are being put on. This bar tack is vertical to insure maximum number of stitches on the seam, and positioned to be not noticeable.

F. The outside, three layered front fly measures 1 ¾” in width. The inside, three layered front fly measures 2” in width.

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4. CROTCH REINFORCEMENT

A. There is a “four-way” crotch reinforcement consisting of 80/20 poly cotton, 100% poly fill, 3.5 yard per pound, pre-cured finish fabric.

B. There are four, two ply sections, one on each side of the intersection of the fly, seat seam and inseams.

C. Crotch area is clean finished with no pieces extending from top of inseams.

5. POCKETS

A. Pants pocketing is high grade; acceptable for use by government agencies, 80/20 poly/cotton, 100% textured poly fill, pre-cured finish, 3.5 yards per pound.

B. Pockets are “bag” construction, consisting of one piece of pocketing turned and stitched. There are no seams at the bottom of the pocket and no exposed serging stitches.

C. If standard exposed hip pockets are used, they shall be double welt construction and reinforced with interlining.

6. CUFF HEM – “EASY ALTER”

The bottom of the trouser leg has a 3” turnback on the inside, including a binding of flat polyester bias hem tape. This tape is a total width of 1 ½” before being applied to the trouser cut edge. It is folded over the cut edge and sewn down leaving a finished width of ¾”. This hem is now blindstitched back to the inside of the trouser leg.

7. SEAMS

A. The center back, seat seam is sewn with two rows of locked chain stitching. There is a

3” Browne outlet along this center back seam.

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B. Inseams are sewn with a highly durable expansion stitch, allowing flexibility in this stress area. These seams are constructed with 5/8” seam allowances, and are of the

“flat” style. Outseams are double folded over with the edges sewn together.

NOTE: Jumpsuits/bibbers with the expandable gusset option are constructed with the inseam having the “flat” style seam with 5/8” allowance.

8. TRIM

A. All jumpsuit/bibber stripes shall continue the full length of the leg through the turn-up and are covered with tape at the raw edge of cuff.

B. Stripes are set no more than 1/8” from side edge of adjustable “V” to minimize stripe distortion.

C. All straight fabric stripes are double thickness to prevent shadowing and pressing marks.

D. Trim shall be centered on and will cover the side seam for aesthetics and seam reinforcement.

9. PERMANENT SUSPENDERS

A. Suspenders are made of whipcord fabric. Color shall match jumpsuits/bibbers. Nylon webbing shall not be used because the adjusting slide will not remain in set position under tension from movement.

B. Suspenders are two-ply, topstitched, and have interlining for body. This will insure the adjustable slide remaining in set position; suspenders will dry clean as well as jumpsuit.

C. All hardware is unbreakable nylon as used in parachutes and life vests; unbreakable, unbendable and not subject to tarnishing or rusting. It will not cause undue abrasion on jumpsuit during dry clean tumbling.

D. Suspenders are self faced and interlined with pellon.

10. PERIMETER SERGING

A. All exposed “raw” edges not covered with tape are serged with a “serging stitch of no less than 10 per inch, tight to edge, to prevent fraying.

B. Serging thread is polyester.

11. UNDERARM GUSSETS

When an underarm gusset is specified for adjustability features, a heavy duty two-layer color matched lycra wedge is sewn into the upper portion of the pant outseam. This gusset is cut into an elongated diamond shaped pattern 19 ½” long and 3 ½” at its widest point. The two

J-5 elongated points are matched together, allowing the double layer of lycra to be sewn into a proportionate V shaped notch. This results in a gusset, double layers, 2 ½” wide at the top of the jumpsuit in the “underarm” area, and extending downward to a finished length of 7 ½”.

This adjustable feature will allow up to 3” larger fit around the torso. The manufacturers warranty includes this lycra feature.

12. UPPER FACINGS

Inside upper facings are essential in providing body and dimensional stability to the curved cut all around the upper edge of the jumpsuit/bibber trouser, extending upwards to accommodate the shoulder strap. The following dimensions are standard:

Center Back Seam 7 ½” Deep

Underarm 5” Deep

Back Shoulder Strap Extension 11” Deep

Front Shoulder Strap Extension 9” Deep