Final GL-PD-19022B - Shoe Oxford Mens - March 1 2023 .pdf

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

GL-PD-19022B

March 1, 2023

SUPERSEDING

GL-PD-19022A

February 6, 2020

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

SHOES, DRESS, OXFORD, MEN’S

The General Services Administration has authorized the use of this purchase description (PD) by all federal agencies.

1. SCOPE. This purchase description covers the requirements for a commercial plain-toe, brown leather, men’s oxford dress shoes to be worn by male military personnel of the Department of Defense.

2. CLASSIFICATION. The shoes will be available in one (1) type in the following sizes and widths, as specified.

2.1 Schedule of sizes and widths:

2.1.1 Size:

2.1.2 Widths: N (C), R (D), W (E), EW (3E)

AMSC N/A FSC 8430

INCH-POUND

5 8-1/2 12 5-1/2 9 12-1/2 6 9-1/2 13 6-1/2 10 13-1/2 7 10-1/2 14 7-1/2 11 15 8 11-1/2 16

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be address to: Department of the U.S. Army, DEVCOM-Soldier Center, ATTN: FCDD-SCD-PEI, 10 General Greene Avenue, Natick, MA 01760-5019.

3. SALIENT CHARACTERISTICS.

3.1 Description. The shoes shall be brown leather and have a plain-toe dress oxford design.

The upper shall be made with corrected or full-grain cattle hide dress shoe leather. Lining for the vamp, quarter, and tongue areas shall be as specified in Table II. The shoes shall have a commercial energy absorbing, slip-in removable formed insole and a thermoplastic box-toe counter. The closure shall be a lace and invisible (blind) eyelet system. The shoes shall have a rubber or polyurethane outsole with a matching traction design and heel constructed using a cemented or welted construction method. These shoes shall be produced on contractor furnished men’s dress shoe lasts in accordance with manufacturer’s standard patterns, dies and markers (see 7.7).

3.1.1 Welted description. The shoes shall have a Goodyear plastic storm welt that goes completely around the heel of the shoe.

3.1.2 Cemented description. The shoes shall have a faux welt that goes completely around the heel of the shoe and utilize a one-piece outsole cemented to the upper as defined in 3.3.2.

3.1.3 Figure. Figure 1 is furnished for informational purposes only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written document and the figure, the written document shall govern.

3.2 Materials.

3.2.1 Upper leather. The uppers shall be cut from 4 to 4-1/2-ounce corrected or full grain, chrome tanned cattlehide dress shoe leather. The color shall be Heritage Walnut 567 (see 7.8).

The temper (softness) and skiving of the various cut parts shall be in accordance with good commercial practice. Tannery and shoe factory dyes/finishes applied to the leather shall be compatible with each other and shall not adversely change the uniformity of color, appearance, durability or shine ability of the shoes. The finished shoe shall be capable of being polished to a high luster with a commercial paste wax before and after normal use.

3.2.2 Welted outsole and heels. The outsole for the shoe shall be black non-marking rubber or polyurethane molded with the manufacturer’s commercial traction design having a total thickness of 16 (± 8) irons with a maximum DIN abrasion index of 300 as shown in Table I. The heels shall be black non-marking rubber or polyurethane, matching the outsole, with a traction design and shall be 1-1/6 (± 1/6)-inch in height, measured from the base of the heel to the outsole, with a maximum DIN abrasion index of 300. The total height of the combined heel and outsole, measured from the base of the heel to top of the outsole, shall be 1-1/4 (± 1/4)-inch in height.

The manufacturer's name or trademark may appear on any of the outsole/heels.

3.2.3 Cemented outsole and heels. The outsole for the shoe shall be a one-piece outsole and heel black polyurethane or rubber molded with the manufacturer’s commercial traction design having a total forefoot thickness between 16 (± 8) irons with a maximum DIN abrasion index of 300 as shown in Table I. The heels shall be black non-marking polyurethane or rubber, matching the outsole, with a traction design and shall be 1-1/4 (± 1/4)-inch in total height, measured from base of heel to top of the outsole, with a maximum DIN abrasion index of 300.

The manufacturer's name or trademark may appear on any of the outsole/heels.

TABLE I. Rubber outsole component requirements.

Characteristic Requirements ASTM Test Method DIN abrasion resistance (max.) 300 ASTM D5963

3.2.4 Slip-in comfort insole. Each shoe shall have a correctly sized slip-in/removable cushioned insole designed to provide enhanced foot comfort. The resilient insole should effectively absorb the impact energy that is produced when the foot comes into repeated contact with the ground during walking and running.

3.3 Construction.

3.3.1 Welted (welted only). The shoes shall have a black, commercial grade Goodyear plastic storm welt which in the finished shoe shall continue completely around the perimeter of the heel.

The welting shall be uniform in appearance and texture and free of blemishes, cracks, blisters, voids, or overlaps.

3.3.2 Cemented (cemented only). The shoes shall have a faux welt that goes completely around the heel of the shoe and utilize a one-piece, traction design polyurethane outsole cemented to the upper with an integrated heel.

3.3.3 Insole. A high-quality commercial fiberboard insole with a minimum thickness of 3 irons shall be used to produce these dress shoes. The insole shall be strong enough to provide a stable, durable, and comfortable shoe. It shall have a good abrasion resistance and flex endurance properties, absorb moisture produced by perspiration and resist the deteriorating action of perspiration.

3.3.3.1 Insole (welted only). The shoes shall use a commercial grade stuck-on rib.

3.3.4 Bottom filler (welted only). Bottom filling may be accomplished using cork or a resilient foam to impart cushioning and improve comfort.

3.3.5 Box-toe/counter. A commercial thermoplastic box-toe and counter shall be used. It shall be properly molded, symmetrically fit the toe area and counter pocket, and provide structural support to the toe and heel areas of the shoe after extended wear.

3.3.6 Lining. The lining for the vamp, quarters and tongue areas shall be brown, gray, or black colored fabric that shall conform to the requirements specified in Table II, when tested as specified. The fabric lining material shall then be flame-combined on the back side of the fabric to a 0.098 (± 0.005)-inch thick open cell polyester foam with a spun lace backer.

TABLE II. Lining requirements.

Characteristics Requirements Test Method Martindale abrasion

Fabric only (Dry)

153,600 revs/ 9,600 cycles (min.)

ASTM D4966 1/

Bursting Strength Fabric Only

125 (min.)

ASTM D3786/D3786M

or ASTM D3787

1/ As described in the test method; Martindale Tester; Pressure applied: 12 KPa; Visually examine specimens after each 3200 cycles; Abradant changed after each 3200 cycles. Use Option 1 for evaluation; no hole appears.

3.3.7 Eyelets. The eyelets shall be invisible, plain type made of nickel-plated brass or anodized aluminum. The shoes shall have five (5) pairs of eyelets. The eyelets shall be evenly spaced on each quarter. They shall be securely and uniformly clinched.

3.3.8 Laces. The laces shall be a good match to Heritage Walnut 567, round, nylon braid that is commercially used for this application. The lace tips shall have sufficient rigidity to perform their intended function. The laces shall be as specified in Table III for the applicable sizes:

TABLE III. Shoelace requirements.

Shoe Size Lace Length 5 through 12 30 - 36-inches 12-1/2 through 15 33 - 39-inches

3.3.9 Thread. The various commercial sewing threads used in the fitting operation shall be brown for the upper and black for the Goodyear welt outsole stitching. The color of the bobbin or looper thread may be a natural or brown. The upper fitting bobbin thread may match the color of the shoe lining. The physical properties of each thread (size, ply, twist, breaking strength, elongation) shall be selected to provide reliable shoe performance during the entire period of wear.

3.4 Labeling.

3.4.1 Marking, permanent identification. The Contractor shall permanently mark the correct American sizes and widths, the contract number (Example: 04-D-1234) and the company or brand name on the inside of the shoe on the interior of the tongue or quarter lining. The marking may be in the form of a label and shall be done in accordance with acceptable commercial practices, and it shall not reduce footwear functionality. The shoe shall contain a manufacturing tracking lot number and/or a born date. Unit packs will include Management Control Number (MCN), or National Stock Number (NSN) and Universal Product Code (UPC) bar codes as specified in the contract. Each symbol must be human and scanner readable. All marking information shall be legible.

3.5 Toxicity. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or procurement documents, the finished materials in the shoes shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested as specified in 3.5.1.

3.5.1 Toxicity test. When the toxicity requirement (see 3.5) can be demonstrated with historical use data, on the finishing treatments used, toxicity testing may not be required.

(See 7.1.4 and 7.5).

3.6 Workmanship. The shoes shall conform to the quality of the product established in this document. The shoes shall be free from defects which would affect its serviceability, appearance, and uniformity and shall not exceed the applicable acceptable quality limits. (See 7.6).

3.7 Equal item. Prior to use of an "or equal" item, the contractor shall submit the item with supporting data to the contracting officer for subsequent approval or disapproval by the responsible military agency. If deemed necessary, the Government reserves the right to test the shoe in the field with the “or equal” component or end item at the contractor’s expense prior to approval.

4. REGULATORY REQUIREMENTS. Unless otherwise specified, the offeror/contractor is encouraged to use recovered, recycled, bio based, and environmentally preferable materials to the maximum extent practicable, in accordance with paragraph 23.403, 23.404(b) of the Federal Acquisition Regulation FAR, or the sustainable acquisition of EO 13693; as applicable.

(See 7.1.2).

5. PRODUCT CONFORMANCE PROVISIONS

5.1 Product conformance. Each pair of shoes shall meet the salient characteristics of this PD, conform to the producer’s own drawings, specifications, standards, and quality assurance practices, and be the same product offered for sale in the commercial marketplace. The Government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance.

5.2 Market acceptance. The shoes must have been sold to the commercial market or the Government.

5.3 End item inspection procedures. Sampling for inspection shall be conducted in accordance with ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes. (See 7.2.1).

5.4 Visual examination. Each pair of shoes shall be examined for the defects that are listed in Table IV. The lot size shall be expressed in units of pair of shoes. The sample unit is one (1) pair of shoes. The inspection level and AQL shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order. Unless otherwise specified, scoring shall be performed on defects visible from a normal inspection distance of 3-feet.

TABLE IV. Visual defects.

Examine Defect Classification Major Minor

Pairing Not properly mated, i.e. not right and left of same size, variation in color or appearance

Color Not as specified 102 Color not uniform, affecting appearance 201 Any raw edges not stained to match upper leather 202 Variation in color or gloss 203

Finish Finish streaky, runs, chipped or flaky on upper 1/ 103 204 Any spots stains or foreign matter 104

Design and Size Not as specified 105

Upper Leather

Scratches, slaughter cuts, cuts on grain surface, brands or light flesh cuts that show through on grain surface; and/or flaky, pipey, loose, cracked; and/or fatty matter, pits, 1/

106 205

Break of vamp or quarter greater than No.3 on SATRA break scale 9.

Grain surface embossed or printed 108 Rough or coarse grain surface in the vamp or quarters in front of the breast of the heel

Insect damage in vamp or outside quarter. 110 Not full or corrected grain 111

Workmanship Any component/material defect or assembly omitted or misplaced

Poor workmanship 206 Seams and Stitching

Open seam not repaired or not as specified 207 Repair of open seam not as specified

NOTE: A seam shall be classified as open when one or more stitches joining a seam are broken or when two (2) or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches occur.

Loose tension resulting in unsecured seams 209 Thread ends not trimmed throughout shoe 210 Wrong seam or stitch type 113

Seams and Stitching (Upper)

Any row of stitching with two (2) or more stitches per inch less than minimum

Any barring missing 115 Needle holes or needle chew visible on outside of shoe 211 Needle holes or needle chew on inside of shoe 212 Stitching overrun resulting in stitching where not intended

Outsole Not properly secured 116

TABLE IV. Visual defects. - Continued

Examine Defect Classification Major Minor

Counter Missing Counter 117 Counter rolled, curled, not filling counter pocket area, or not properly positioned 1/

118 214

Edge-making Edge not trimmed square or trimming is irregular affecting appearance

Sole extension more than maximum specified 1/ 119 216 Edge not trimmed 217 Edge trimmed into sole stitching 218

Construction, Welted

Overlapped or open space exceeding 1/16-inch between ends of welting

Skipped or broken stitch on welting 220 Construction, Cemented

Leakage of cementing adhesive 1/ 120 221 Delamination of outsole 121

Heel Attaching Heel not properly trimmed, i.e. is pronounced, flared or tapered

Improper Scouring leaving marks greater than 1/4-inch

Improper Scouring without marking the shoe over 1/4-inch

Heel not finished smoothly, including heel breast 225 Separation between heel and heel base or between heel base and outsole

Crooked or wrong size heel 123 Eyelets Number of eyelets not as specified 124

Material of eyelet not as specified 226 Not the same number of eyelets in each row 125 Edge of any eyelet less than 1/4 inch or more than 3/8-inch from the edge of quarter

Any eyelet not securely clinched 126 Insole Any protruding point of tack on insole forward of heel breast line

Slip-in cushion insert

Missing Insert 128 Not correct size or configuration 129

Lining Quarter or vamp lining wrinkled, lose or with excessive fullness 1/

130 228

Quarter or vamp lining torn 131 Marking Missing, incomplete, incorrect, not applied in the specified manner, misplaced, illegible, or not specified size 1/

132 229

Packaging Not in accordance with the contract or purchase order 1/

133 230

1/ This defect shall be scored as major when seriously affecting serviceability or appearance and as minor when not seriously affecting serviceability.

5.5 Acceptance criteria. Acceptance criteria shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order (see 7.6).

6. PACKAGING.

6.1 Packaging. The preservation, packing, and marking shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order (see 7.6).

7. NOTES.

7.1 Sources of Government documents.

7.1.1 Copies of Government documents are available on-line at https://quicksearch.dla.mil.

7.1.2 EO 13693 information is available online at https://www.epa.gov.

7.1.3 Federal Acquisition Regulations (FAR) are available online at https://acquisition.gov.

7.1.4 Toxicity testing. If dermal toxicity testing is required, it will be conducted in accordance with Title 40, Protection of Environment, Code of Federal Regulations current edition and applicable sections, which are also consistent with the following OECD tests:

Skin Sensitization 406 and Dermal Irritation 404 (https://www.oecd-ilibrary.org/environment/oecd-guidelines-for-the-testing-of-chemicals-section-4-health-effects_20745788?page=1).

Dermal Sensitization (https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/40/798.4100).

Dermal Toxicity (https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/40/798.2250).

7.2 Sources of non-Government documents.

7.2.1 ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 – Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes is available online at https://asq.org.

7.2.2 ASTM Standards are available online at https://www.astm.org.

7.2.3 SATRA Test methods are available online at https://www.satra.com.

7.3 Standard samples. For access to standard samples address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal.

7.4 Intended use. The shoes are intended for wear by male personnel of the Army as part of the Army Green Service Uniform (AGSU).

https://quicksearch.dla.mil/ https://www.epa.gov/ https://acquisition.gov/ https://www.oecd-ilibrary.org/environment/oecd-guidelines-for-the-testing-of-chemicals-section-4-health-effects_20745788?page=1 https://www.oecd-ilibrary.org/environment/oecd-guidelines-for-the-testing-of-chemicals-section-4-health-effects_20745788?page=1 https://www.oecd-ilibrary.org/environment/oecd-guidelines-for-the-testing-of-chemicals-section-4-health-effects_20745788?page=1 https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/40/798.4100 https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/40/798.2250 https://asq.org/ https://www.astm.org./ https://www.satra.com./

7.5 Certificate of compliance. The contracting activity may select to accept a certificate of compliance for stated requirement.

7.6 Ordering data. The contract or purchase order should specify the following:

a. Title, number, and date of this purchase description.

b. Size and width required (see 2.1 and 2.2).

c. Labeling information (see 3.4).

d. When toxicity testing is required (see 3.5 and 3.5.1).

e. Regulatory requirements (see 4).

f. Product conformance provisions (see 5.1).

g. Acceptance criteria (see 5.5).

h. Packaging requirements (see 6.1).

7.7 Known sources.

7.7.1 Capps Shoe 90259A has been found to meet the requirements for the shoes.

7.7.2 Original Footwear Co. Email: sbryson@originalfootwear.com (Attention: Stephanie Bryson).

7.8 Color (leather). AMS STD 595 color chip 10059 is an acceptable match for Heritage Walnut 567.

7.9 Summary of changes since last revision.

a. Eliminated Type II for the cement construction with polyurethane outsole and heel requirements throughout document.

b. Updated information for known sources.

c. Updated format and typographical errors where required.

7.10 Subject term (key word) listing.

Army Green Service Uniform (AGSU) Footwear Heritage Walnut 567

THIS SPACE LEFT INTENTIONALLY BLANK

mailto:sbryson@originalfootwear.com

FIGURE 1. Shoes, Dress, Oxford, Men’s.

Custodian: Preparing Activity:

Army-GL Army-GL