FINAL GL-PD 19019A.pdf

GL-PD-19019A

1 May 2020

SUPERSEDING

GL-PD 19019

17 July 2019

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

COAT, WOMAN’S, BELTED WITH BI-SWING

This purchase description is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense (DoD).

1. SCOPE.

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for a belted coat with bi-swing to be worn by female military personnel of the Department of the Army.

1.2 Classification. The coat will be in the following types and sizes:

1.2.1 Types.

Type I - Officer (with sleeve braid) Type II - Enlisted (without sleeve braid)

1.2.2 Sizes.

Schedule of sizes

Junior Misses Women Size Petite

(P) Regular

(R) Tall

(T) X-Tall

(XT)

Petite

(P) Regular

(R) Tall

(T) X-Tall

(XT)

Petite (P)

Regular (R)

Tall (T)

X-Tall

(XT)

4 X -- -- -- X X -- -- X -- -- -- 6 X -- -- -- X X X -- X X X -- 8 X X -- -- X X X -- X X X --

10 X X X -- X X X -- X X X -- 12 X X X X X X X -- X X X X

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Department of the Army, Combat Capabilities Development Command (CCDC) Soldier Center, 10 General Greene Avenue, Natick MA 01760, ATTN: FCDD-SCP-WC.

AMSC N/A FSC 8410

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

INCH POUND

Schedule of sizes. - Continued

Junior Misses Women Size Petite

(P) Regular (R)

Tall (T)

X-Tall

(XT)

Petite (P)

Regular (R)

Tall (T)

X-Tall

(XT)

Petite (P)

Regular (R)

Tall (T)

X-Tall

(XT)

14 X X X X X X X -- X X X X 16 X X X X X X X X X X X X 18 X X X -- -- X X X -- X X X 20 X X X -- -- X X X -- X X -- 22 X X X -- -- X X -- -- X X -- 24 -- X -- -- -- X X -- -- -- X -- 26 -- X -- -- -- X X -- -- -- X --

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 or 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all the specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 or 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50067 - Cloth, Flannel, Wool A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-Covered A-A-52071 - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose A-A-59826 - Thread, Nylon A-A-59994 - Button, Sewing Hole and Button, Staple (Plastic)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-B-371 - Cotton Tubular Braid, Flat MIL-B-3461 - Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap MIL-W-5664 - Webbing, Textile, Elastic MIL-P-15064 - Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head MIL-C-15065 - Coat Fronts MIL-C-29137 - Cloth, Felt Fabric Composite, Undercollar MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use)

MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusibles

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS

MIL-STD-1608 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Coats, Women’s, Dress

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION (FTC)

Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act

(Copies of this document are available online at https://www.ftc.gov.)

PURCHASE DESCRIPTIONS

GL-PD-19007 - Cloth, Elastique, Polyester and Wool GL-PD-19011 - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend GL-PD-19013 - Braid, Textile (Flat) GL-PD 19030 - Buckle, Coat

(Copies of these documents are available through the contracting activity).

THE INSTITUTE OF HERALDRY (TIOH)

TIOH Standard Metal Finish Chip Number 4

(Copies of this document are available online at https://www.tioh.hqda.pentagon.mil.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC EP1 - Evaluation Procedure for Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC EP2 - Evaluation Procedure for Gray Scale for Staining AATCC EP8 - Evaluation Procedures for AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale AATCC TM8 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter AATCC TM15 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC TM132 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Drycleaning https://quicksearch.dla.mil/ https://www.ftc.gov/ https://www.tioh.hqda.pentagon.mil./

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY CONTROL (ASQ)

ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies of this document are available online at https://asq.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation Of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test) ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of these documents are available online from https://www.astm.org.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

SDL ATLAS

Part Number 402985 – Slub/Knot Replica Set

(Replica set is available for purchase from SDL Atlas Customer Service, 1-803-329-2110.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or bio-based materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or bio-based materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design. The coat shall be a single-breasted coat, with peak lapels, front princess seams, bi-swing back with center back vent, and a detachable waist belt with a removable buckle. The coat front closure shall have three (3) metal buttons and one (1) melamine button at the waist. The coat shall have two (2) scalloped chest pocket flaps with small metal buttons, two (2) lower double welt pockets with rectangular pocket flaps with lower rounded corners and small metal buttons, and shall have functional button down shoulder loops with https://www.aatcc.org/ https://asq.org/ https://www.astm.org/ decorative box stitching and small metal buttons. The coat is fully lined and shall have one

(1) inside vertical welt pocket and two (2) inside lower welt pockets. Type I coats shall have a piece of braid included in the inside vertical welt pocket (See Figures 1 and 2).

3.4 Materials.

3.4.1 Basic material. The basic material for coat shall conform to GL-PD-19007. The color shall match Heritage Green 564.

3.4.2 Lining. The material for the lining shall be a polyester twill cloth conforming to Class 3 of GL-PD-19011. The color of the lining material shall be black.

3.4.3 Fusible interlinings.

3.4.3.1 Fronts fusible interlining. The fusible interlining for the center front, front princess, front side and front facing shall conform to Type III, Class 1, Style C of MIL-C-44296 and the color shall be black or charcoal. Any coat shall incorporate the same front fusible material.

3.4.3.2 Small parts fusible interlining. The fusible interlining for the chest and outer pocket flaps, top collar, back hem, side back hem, right and left back vent, top sleeve, under sleeve, belt, shoulder loops, lapel point reinforcement and collar stand shall conform to either Type V or VI, Class 1, Style A or B; or Type VIII, Class 1, Style A of MIL-C-44296.

Each coat shall incorporate the same small parts fusible material. The color shall be black or charcoal.

3.4.3.3 Fused state bonding strength. The small parts and fronts fusible material for pre-production and in-process testing shall meet an initial minimum bonding strength requirement in the warp (machine) direction of 32-ounces per inch or splits prior to dry cleaning when tested as specified in 4.3.2.3, and a minimum of 24-ounces per inch or splits in the warp (machine) direction after three (3) dry cleanings and pressings when tested as specified in 4.3.3.3. As an option, the bonding strength may be conducted up to two hours after the initial fusing takes place.

3.4.3.4 Colorfastness. All dyed finished fusible interlining materials shall show colorfastness to dry-cleaning as specified in MIL-C-44296.

3.4.3.5 Shrinkage. The interlining, after fusing to the basic cloth as specified in 3.4.3.6, shall not exceed 1.5 percent differential shrinkage when tested as specified in 4.3.3.5.

Additionally, the interlining, after fusing to the basic cloth as specified in 3.4.3.6 shall not exceed 2.0 percent shrinkage after dry-cleaning when tested as specified in 4.3.3.6.

All dry-cleaned materials shall not exhibit any sign of bubbling, puckering, or delamination.

3.4.3.6 Fusing press operating procedure and conditions. A single layer of fusible interlining shall be fused to a single layer of basic material on a dry electrically heated conveyor type fusing press, which has the capacity of controlling and retaining pressure, dwell time, and temperature for a minimum of 8 hours. Pair or sandwich fusing which can create differential shrinkage, stitching, and uneven bonding shall not be permitted.

A steam sourced fusing press shall not be allowed for any initial fusing operations.

For optimum results, the fusible material manufacturer’s recommendations for fusing dwell time, pressure, and temperature, based upon the fusing equipment used and basic material being fused, shall be utilized. Under no circumstances shall the dry heat temperature of the fusing press exceed 315oF. Common fusing press settings shall be established in order to fuse both the small parts and fronts fusibles together. Basic preproduction and production maintenance procedures, including a fusing press information chart, shall be required to assure proper fusing press performance relative to temperature control, evenness in pressure head or roller contact, dwell time and cleanliness. Results of the production maintenance procedures shall be recorded on Figure 7.

3.4.4 Pocketing. The material for the inside pocket bag1, inside pocket bag2, chest flap lining, pocket inner lower bag and pocket outer bag shall be polyester and cotton conforming to Class 1 of GL-PD-19011, except that the non-fibrous material content and colorfastness requirements for perspiration and crocking shall not apply. The color shall be a good match to the basic material or dyed black.

3.4.5 Stay tapes.

3.4.5.1 Bias stay tapes. The bias tape for staying the armhole and front shoulder shall be made from natural, or dyed black polyester and cotton cloth conforming to Class 3 of GL-PD-19011, except that the non-fibrous material content shall not apply. The stay tape shall be cut on the 45 degree bias, 1/2-inch wide.

3.4.5.2 Woven stay tapes. The woven stay tape for the coat front and lapel, armhole, back neckline, and bi-swing pleat shall be preshrunk cotton conforming to Type I, Class 1 of A-A-52071, except that the requirement for non-fibrous material shall not apply.

The tapes for the coat front and lapel, armhole and back neckline shall be 1/4-inch wide and the tapes for the bi-swing pleat shall be 3/4-inch wide. The stay tapes may be dyed black and shall have colorfastness to dry cleaning and perspiration equal to or better than a rating of “3-4” and it shall have colorfastness to crocking equal to or better than a rating of “3.5” when tested as specified in 4.7.4. As an alternate the stay tape for the armhole and bi-swing pleat may be made from natural, or dyed black polyester and cotton cloth conforming to Class 1 of GL-PD-19011, except that the non-fibrous material content shall not apply. The stay tape shall be cross-cut, 1/2-inch wide, and the raw edges of the tape shall be treated with a synthetic resin to prevent raveling. As an alternate the stay tape for the coat front and lapel shall be a bias stay tape (see 3.4.5.1).

3.4.5.3 Bridle stay tapes. The stay tapes for the bridle at the breakline of the coat shall be preshrunk cotton conforming to Type I, Class 3 of A-A-52071, except that the requirement for nonfibrous material shall not apply. The stay tapes shall be 1-inch wide for bridle at breakline of coat. The stay tapes may be dyed black and shall have colorfastness to dry cleaning and perspiration equal to or better than a rating of “3-4” and it shall have color-fastness to crocking equal to or better than a rating of “3.5” when tested as specified in 4.7.4.

3.4.6 Undercollar material. The material for the undercollar shall be a wool flannel cloth conforming to A-A-50067. The color shall be a good match to the basic material.

3.5 Components.

3.5.1 Floating chest piece. The chest piece shall conform to Type XIII of MIL-C-15065.

3.5.2 Elastic. The elastic for the bi-swing shall conform to Type II, Class 1 of

MIL-W-5664. The width shall be 2-1/2-inches and the color shall black.

3.5.3 Braid (Type I only). The braid shall be 1/2-inch wide and conform to Type I of GL-PD-19013. The color shall be Olive Drab 568. The length of the braid shall be 36 (±1/2)-inches. The braid shall be left unattached and placed in the inside vertical welt pocket.

3.5.4 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to Type I, Class 1 of MIL-P-15064.

3.5.5 Sleeve-head pads. The sleeve-head pads shall conform to Type IV of

MIL-P-15064, except that the length shall be 8 to 9-inches for sizes 4 through 8; 10 to 11-inches for sizes 10 through 16; and 12 to 13-inches for sizes 18 through 26. As an alternate, a continuous (on a roll) cut to require length sleeve-head may be used.

3.5.6 Thread. The thread for seaming and stitching shall conform to Table I. Alternate thread requirements shall conform to Table II. All thread shall be non-staining and shall conform to the requirements in A-A-50199 or A-A-59826. The thread color for all visible stitching shall be a good match to the basic material.

TABLE I. Thread requirements.

Component Area Thread Specification Tex Size Seaming and stitching A-A 50199, Type I or Type II 40 Belt loops; bartacking ends of belt loops

A-A-50199, Type I or Type II

36-45

Blindstitching, overedge stitching and machine felling

31-35

Button sewing, hand and machine (except automatic sewing and shank type)

61-70

Tacking armhole and attaching sleeve-heads

TABLE II. Alternate thread requirements.

Component Area Thread Specification Tex Size Hand or machine felling A-A-59826, Type IV 35 or 45 Buttonholes and bartacks A-A-59826, Type V 135 Seaming and stitching A-A-59826, Type VI 30, 90 or 24 Button sewing, machine (except automatic button sewing and shank wrapping)

A-A-59826, Type I, II, or III

350 or 400

3.5.6.1 Thread, basting. The thread for basting shall be a good commercial grade, bleached or unbleached cotton thread. As an alternate, the cotton-covered, polyester core thread (A-A-50199) used for seaming and stitching or the nylon thread (A-A-59826) used in hand or machine felling may be used for those operations.

3.5.6.2 Thread for automatic button sewing. The thread for the automatic machine, which sews and shanks (wraps) the buttons in one operation simulating hand sewing is utilized, shall be nylon in accordance with Type III, Class A, Tex 135 of A-A-59826.

3.5.6.3 Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing the buttonholes shall be cotton, soft finish or glazed finish, Tex 210 conforming to Types I or II of A-A-50198. The color of the gimp shall be a good match to the basic material.

3.5.7 Buttons.

3.5.7.1 Uniform buttons. Uniform buttons shall conform to Type I, Style 2, Classes A or B of MIL-B-3461, except that the buttons shall be brass, oxidized, non-buffed relieved and shall match TIOH Standard Metal Finish Chip Number 4. The three (3) buttons for the coat front shall be 30-ligne, hopper back and the buttons for the pocket flaps and shoulder loops shall be a 25-ligne, hopper back.

3.5.7.2 Sewing hole button. The button for waist front closure shall be of a melamine formaldehyde composition, glossy finish conforming to Type I, Class 1, Style 20, 34-ligne of A-A-59994. The color of the button shall be good match to the basic material.

3.5.7.3 Belt button. The belt button shall be a melamine formaldehyde composition, glossy finish conforming to Type I, Class 1, Style 20 or 21, 24-ligne of A-A-59994. The color of the button shall be good match to the basic material.

3.5.8 Rings. Rings shall be used to fasten buttons to the chest pocket flaps and lower pocket flaps and shall conform to MIL-B-3461.

3.5.9 Belt buckle. The buckle for the belt shall conform to GL-PD-19030.

3.5.10 Hanger loop. The hanger loop shall be a cotton tubular flat braid, 1/8 to 3/16-inch wide conforming to Type III, Class 1 of MIL-B-371. The color shall be black.

3.6 Labels. Each coat shall have a combination identification and care instruction label, a size label and a barcode label conforming to MIL-DTL-32075. The inscription shall have a minimum font size of 8 points for the identification/care label only. The font for the size label shall be 10 points. The color of the labels shall be white and the printing shall be black.

3.6.1 Combination identification and care instructions label. The combination identification and care instruction label shall conform to Type VI, Class 15, of MIL-DTL-32075. The label shall be sewn down on all four (4) sides and shall be positioned on the inside of the inner pocket. The stitching shall not cover the printing.

The printed label shall be facing the body when worn. The label shall contain the item name, shade number, lot number, contractor’s name, contract number, fiber content and the following laundering instructions:

3.6.2 Size label. Each coat shall have a separate size label conforming to Type VI, Class 2, of MIL-DTL-32075, which shall be stitched to the inside center back at the collar seam. After the size designation, add the fit designation indicated by J for Junior, M for Misses and W for Women’s and then the length designation indicated by P, R, T, or XT. The end of the stitching need not be tacked providing the stitching extends at least 1/2-inch beyond each end of the label. The stitching shall not be through the printing. The color of the label shall be white and the label shall indicate size, and National Stock Number (NSN) as follows:

12 WR

8410-01-000-0000

3.6.3 Bar code label. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, each coat shall have a bar code label in accordance with Type VIII, Class 17 of MIL-DTL-32075. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit National Stock Number (NSN). There shall be a 12 digit Universal Product Code (UPC) assigned for all NSN’s by the Government. The initial “UPC” must appear beneath the code. The bar codes for NSN and UPC shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so that it is completely visible on the coat when it is folded and/or packaged as specified. The barcodes shall be clearly legible and readable by a scanner. The label’s location shall cause no damage to the coat.

Laundering instructions

1. DRY CLEAN ONLY

2. Use damp cloth for outside pressing

3. Remove wrinkles or gloss marks at edges and seams with a steam iron or an iron and damp press cloth. Press/iron temperature with steam shall be 325 (± 5)oF on wool setting with steam.

4. Roll press (without creasing) sleeves and lapels.

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

3.6.4 Certification label. Each coat, produced for the Army & Air Force Exchange Services (AAFES) or commercial sales, shall have a label attached stating certification information as described in 4.8 (see 6.9). The certification label shall be sewn down on all four (4) sides and shall be positioned on the inside of the inner chest pocket top of label 1/2-inch below the combination label and stitched on all four (4) sides. Stitching shall not be through printing. As an alternate, the certification label may be combined with the combination label.

3.6.4.1 Age code labeling. Each certification label shall have an age code for quarter and year certification was issued placed at the bottom of the certification label. The age code may be accomplished by direct printing, stamping or stenciling.

3.7 Figures. Figures are furnished for information purposes only. If there are any inconsistencies between the written specification and the figures, the written specification shall control.

3.8 Patterns. Standard patterns, to be used for cutting the contractor’s working patterns will be furnished by the Government. Minor pattern modifications are permitted to accommodate automation; however, the design and finished measurements must be maintained. Component parts shall be cut from the same piece (dye lot) of fabric. The use of drill holes is prohibited. The patterns provide a 3/8-inch seam allowance for all seams unless otherwise indicated, important seam allowances include:

1/4-inch - Joining of collar stand to top collar 3/16-inch - Joining of shoulder loops

3/4-inch - Joining of sleeve out seams, center back lining seam and inside pocket bags

1 inch - Joining of center back, side back and side seams 1-1/4 inches - Coat bottom hem turn up

3.8.1 Pattern version. PD19_019 dated 1 May 2020.

3.8.2 List of pattern parts. The components of the coat shall be cut from materials specified in accordance with the pattern parts indicated in Table III:

TABLE III. List of pattern parts.

Material Nomenclature Pattern Abbreviation Cut Parts

Basic material (see 3.4.1)

Center front Front princess Front side Back side

PD19_019-CENTER-FRONT

PD19_019-FR-PRNCSS

PD19_019-FR-SIDE

PD19_019-BK-SIDE

Back right PD19_019-BK-RIGHT 1 Back left PD19_019-BK-LEFT 1

TABLE III. List of pattern parts. – Continued

Material Nomenclature Pattern Abbreviation Cut Parts

Basic material (see 3.4.1) (cont’d)

Front facing Collar stand Top collar Top sleeve Under sleeve Shoulder loop Chest flap Pocket outer flap Pocket outer welt Belt Belt loop

PD19_019-FR-FAC

PD19_019-CLLR-STND

PD19_019-TOP-CLLR

PD19_019-TOP-SLV

PD19_019-UNDR-SLV

PD19_019-SHLDRLOOP

PD19_019-CHEST-FLAP

PD19_019-PKT-OUT-FLAP

PD19_019-PKT-OUT-WELT

PD19_019-BELT

PD19_019-BELT-LOOP

Lining (see 3.4.2)

Front lining Back side lining Back right lining Back left lining Top sleeve lining Under sleeve lining Pocket outer flap facing Pocket inner lower welt Pocket inner upper welt

PD19_019-FR-LIN

PD19_019-BK-SIDE-LIN

PD19_019-BK-RGT-LIN

PD19_019-BK-LFT-LIN

PD19_019-TOP-SLV-LIN

PD19_019-UNDR-SLV-LIN

PD19_019-PKT-OUT-FLAP-FAC

PD19_019-PKT-IN-LWR-WELT

PD19_019-PKT-IN-UP-WELT

Front fusible (see

3.4.3.1)

Center front interlining Front princess interlining Front side interlining Front facing interlining

PD19_019-CENTER-FRT-INT

PD19_019-FR-PRNCSS-INT

PD19_019-FR-SIDE-INT

PD19_019-FR-FAC-INT

Small parts fusible (see

3.4.3.2)

Top collar interlining Collar stand interlining Chest flap interlining Pocket outer flap interlining Shoulder loop interlining Back side hem interlining Back right hem interlining Back left hem interlining Back vent interlining Top sleeve interlining Under sleeve interlining Belt interlining Lapel point reinforcement

PD19_019-TOP-CLLR-INT

PD19_019-CLLR-STND-INT

PD19_019-CHEST-FLAP-INT

PD19_019-PKT-OUT-FLAP-INT

PD19_019-SHLDRLOOP-INT

PD19_019-BK-SIDE-M-INT

PD19_019-BK-RGT-HEM-INT

PD19_019-BK-LFT-HEM-INT

PD19_019-BK-VENT-INT

PD19_019-TOP-SLV-INT

PD19_019-UNDR-SLV-INT

PD19_019-BELT-INT

PD19_019-LPL-POINT-REIN

TABLE III. List of pattern parts. – Continued

3.9 End item dimensional stability and bonding strength of fusible interlinings.

3.9.1 Fusing press operation conditions. The fusing press settings for time, temperature and pressure shall be in accordance with manufacturer’s recommendations (see 4.7.3.1).

3.9.2 Dimensional stability to drycleaning and steam pressing. The interlining, after fusing to the basic material as specified in 4.7.3.2, shall not exceed 2.0 percent shrinkage after dry-cleaning when tested as specified in 4.7.3.3. All dry-cleaned materials shall not exhibit any sign of bubbling, puckering, or delamination.

3.9.3 Fused state bonding strength. The interlining, after fusing to the basic material as specified in 4.7.3.2 for small parts and fronts fusible material shall meet an initial minimum bonding strength (prior to dry cleaning) of 32-ounces per inch or splits in the warp (machine) direction when tested as specified in 4.7.3.4, and a minimum bonding strength of 24 ounces per inch or splits in the warp (machine) direction after three (3) dry cleanings and pressings when tested as specified in 4.7.3.4.

3.10 Construction.

3.10.1 Stitches, seams, and stitching types. All stitches, seams, and stitching specified in Table V shall conform to ASTM D6193. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn, so that no raw edges, run-offs, pleats, puckers, or open seams occur. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so there is no tight or loose

Material Nomenclature Pattern Abbreviation Cut Parts

Pocketing (see 3.4.4)

Chest flap lining Inside pocket bag1 Inside pocket bag2 Pocket inner lower bag Pocket outer bag

PD19_019-CHEST-FLAP-LIN

PD19_019-INSIDEPKTBAG 1

PD19_019-INSIDEPKTBAG 2

PD19_010-PKT-IN-LWR-BAG

PD19_019-PKT-OUT-BAG

Undercollar (see 3.4.6)

Under collar PD19_019-UND-CLLR 1

Placement template

Chest flap placement template Pocket outer placement template

PD19_019-CHEST-FLAP-PLACE-

TEMP

PD19_019-PKT-OUT-PLACE-TEMP

Finish template

Chest flap template Pocket outer flap template

Shoulder loop template

PD19_019-CHEST-FLAP-TEMP

PD19_019-PKT-OUT-FLAP-TEMP

PD19_019-SHLDRLOOP-TEMP

Shaper Lapel shaper PD19_019-LAPELSHAPER --

Marker Right buttonhole marker PD19_019-RT-BH-PLACEMENT-

MARKER

stitching. Seams required to be worked out having a depth between the fold of 1/16-inch or more shall be considered a defect.

3.10.1.1 Stitches per inch. The minimum and maximum number of stitches per inch as specified Table IV.

3.10.1.2 Type 301 and 306 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/4-inch except label, shall be overlapped not less than 1/2-inch.

The ends of the label and hand stitching shall be overlapped not less than three stitches.

Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or needle thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lock shall be embedded in the materials sewn.

3.10.1.3 Repairs of Type 301 and 306 stitching. Repairs of type 301 and 306 stitching shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks or bobbin run-outs occur during stitching, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2-inch in back of the end of the stitching.

b. Thread breaks or two or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during end item inspection shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start at a minimum of 1/2- inch in back of the defective area and continue a minimum of 1/2-inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching, without damaging the materials, and restitched. 1/

1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched.

The loose ends shall be trimmed with scissors. Caution: Pulling or breaking the loose ends is not allowed.

3.10.1.4 Repairs of Type 101 and 103 stitching. Repairs shall be accomplished by superimposing new tack or blindstitching in the same location after removing threads of first broken tack or blindstitching. When repairing blindstitching, superimpose stitching 1/2-inch over loose ends of broken stitching.

3.10.1.5 Repairs of Type 401, 502, 503, and 504 stitching. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.10.1.3.a. and 3.10.1.3.b, except substitute 3/4-inch for 1/2-inch wherever 1/2-inch appears. Repairs to stitch Type 401 may be accomplished by use of stitching type 301.

3.10.1.6 Thread breaks and ends of seams. End of all seams and stitchings (except darts), when not caught in other seams or stitchings, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4-inch. The ends of the continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2-inch except on labels, where the overlap shall be not less than three stitches. The ends of the hand felling shall be tacked with not less than three (3) stitches. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2-inch. The thread ends of darts shall not be trimmed closer than 1/2-inch.

3.10.1.7 Bartacks. Bartacks shall measure 1/4 to 3/8-inch long, and be free from thread breaks and loose stitching.

3.10.2 Marking. The component parts of the coat shall be marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of marking may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.

b. Sew on type tickets.

c. Adhesive-type tickets which discolor the material or leave traces of paper or adhesive on the material upon removal of the tickets.

NOTE: The use of ink pad numbering or machine rubber stamp, or pencil is allowed, provided that the numbering does not show on the outside of the garment, and wherever possible is covered by the seam allowance.

3.10.3 Use of automated apparel equipment. Automated apparel equipment may be used provided that the finished component and end item conforms to the required size, dimensions and configurations. Patterns may be altered to accommodate the use of automated equipment as specified in 3.8.

3.11 Manufacturing operations requirements. The coat shall be manufactured in accordance with operation requirements specified in Table IV. Unless otherwise specified in Table IV, the contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations provided the finished coat is identical to that produced by following the sequence as listed in Table IV. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in this specification or governed by the pattern. Any additional basting or holding stitching, to facilitate manufacture, is permissible provided the thread is removed or does not show on the finished coat.

3.11.1 Pressing. All pressing operations shall be performed by using a heated pressing iron or machine as commercially used for those coats. Any additional under-pressing to facilitate manufacture is permissible. The coat shall be pressed smooth and flat, without any gloss or pressing impressions. The collar shall be pressed on collar machine stretching outer edge of collar over shoulder area when required. The lapel and collar seam placement shall be checked with the finished lapel shaper for the proper width.

The top of sleeves shall be blocked and pressed having a rolled effect at front and back.

The assembled coat front shall be pressed from the waist to the top edge, on a suitable type heated pressing machine, to shrink and shape the fronts to eliminate the excess fullness of the chest.

3.11.2 Cleaning. All basting threads shall be removed and all ends of stitching shall be trimmed and loose threads removed from the coat. All spots, stains, and shade or size markings shall be removed without damage to the material.

3.11.3 Abbreviations in table of operations. The abbreviations used in Table IV are as follows:

Brtck - Bartack Btn - Button Btnhl - Buttonhole Comrcl - Commercial Dbl - Double Mchne - Machine Smlr - Similar

TABLE IV. Manufacturing operations requirements.

No. Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching

Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/ Looper

1. Cut basic material.

a. Spread the material without tension in a suitable number of plies for the applicable fabric. The cut parts from the top and bottom ply shall match and correspond to the pattern.

b. Lay the material in uniform lengths and widths in accordance with marker. The plies shall be spread flat and smooth, selvage to selvage. The fabric shall not be stretched, pulled or twisted, and one side of the lay shall be even.

c. Cut the coat in strict accordance with patterns furnished, which show directional lines, size, shape, placement of pockets and flaps, and notches for proper assembly of parts. The use of drill holes is prohibited.

d. Cut all basic material parts of each coat out of the same piece of material, except lower pocket welt pieces that may be cut from ends.

NOTE: When lower pocket welt pieces are cut from ends, they shall be cut in the warp direction and match each other.

2. Cut lining.

a. Cut lining for the body of the coat, sleeves, pocket outer flap facing and pocket welts in the direction of the warp, and in strict accordance with the patterns furnished. The sleeve linings may be

TABLE IV. Manufacturing operations requirements. - Continued

Seam and Stitching

Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/ Looper

2.

Cut lining. (cont’d) cut from the ends. When sleeve linings are cut from the ends, the parts shall approximately match the shade of the body lining and the sleeves shall match each other.

3. Cut trimmings.

a. Cut front fusible interlinings in the same direction as the parts to be fused.

b. Cut small part fusible interlinings in the same direction as the parts to be fused.

c. Cut lining cloth for armhole and front shoulder stays on the 45 degree bias, 1/2-inch wide.

d. As an alternate, the coat front and lapel woven stay tapes (see 3.4.6.2) may be cut from lining cloth on the 45 degree bias, 1/2-inch wide.

e. Cut pocketing for chest flap lining, inside pocket bags, and outer pocket bags in the warp direction.

f. As an alternate, if not using woven stay tape (see 3.4.6.2) for armhole and bi-swing pleat stays, cut pocketing cloth on the cross grain 1/2-inch wide.

g Cut undercollar cloth in accordance with directional lines on the patterns.

Seam and Stitching

Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/ Looper

4. Replacement of damaged parts.

Care shall be exercised during the spreading, cutting, and manufacturing operations to ensure that material defects and damages, as classified in MIL-STD-1608, are excluded and replaced with non-defective and properly matched material.

5. Shade markings.

a. All component parts of the basic material and linings, including sleeve linings, shall be marked or ticketed to ensure a uniform shade throughout the coat. Other parts cut from the ends need not be shade marked. Any method may be used except as indicated in 3.10.2.

b. Identify the test swatches of basic material and fusible interlining that represent every 1000 coat units of production.

6.

Fusing (Fuse small parts and fronts).

a. Superimpose the small parts fusible lapel point reinforcement piece on the center front interlinings and fuse all pieces to the center front as indicated in Figure 5.

b. Fuse front fusible to front princess, front side, and front facing 1/8-inch in from edge as indicated in Figure 5.

c. Fuse small parts fusible to back vent, back side, and back hem interlining to backs at hem and vent as indicated in Figure 5.

Seam and Stitching

Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/

6.

Fusing (Fuse small parts and fronts).

d. Fuse small parts fusible to the top sleeve and under sleeve with bottom edge of the fusible interlining 1/8-inch from the bottom edge and sides.

e. Fuse small parts fusible to the top collar. Position top collar interlining centered on the top collar with the top edge positioned 1/8-inch from the top collar edge and side.

f. Fuse small parts fusible to the chest pocket flaps and pocket outer flaps even with the top edge, with the other remaining edges set back 1/8-inch.

g. Fuse small parts fusible to the top plies of the shoulder loops with the sides and pointed end of interlining set back 1/8-inch from edges and not to be caught in the seam when stitched.

h. Fuse small parts fusible to belt loops and belt. Position belt interlining 1/8-inch from sides.

i. Fuse small parts and fronts fusible test swatches.

NOTE: Fused lots and test swatches shall be allowed to cool to the touch prior to bundle tying or testing.

7.

Make belt loops.

Finished appearance. The belt loops shall be uniformly stitched, uniform in width and shall finish smooth and flat with no pleats, gathers, puckers or other distortion.

Seam and Stitching

Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/ Looper

7. Make belt loops. (cont’d)

a. The belt loops shall be made from basic material and interlining.

b. Fold the sides of the strip lengthwise towards the center, abutting the raw edges and join the raw edges together with a 3/8-inch wide covering stitch, to finish 5/8-inch wide. The stitching shall be uniformly 1/8 inch from finished edges of the belt loops.

c. Cut the three belt loops 3-inches long.

EFh-2

9-11

A

A

8.

Make belt.

Finished appearance. The belt shall be uniformly stitched and shall finish smooth and flat without twists, pleats, gathers, puckers or raw edges. The pointed end of the belt shall be turned out and well formed.

a. The belt shall be made of basic material and interlining.

b. Fold belt in half lengthwise with right sides together. Stitch along the entire length of belt 1/4-inch in from raw side edges. Press seam open and flat.

c. Off-set the seam to align pointed end of belt and stitch pointed end from side to side. Turn belt and position seam on the underside, working out pointed end and edges.

d. Press the belt flat and topstitch 1/4-inch along lengthwise edges and pointed end.

SSa-1

OSf-1

Seam and Stitching

Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/

8.

Make belt. (cont’d)

e. Close the straight end of the belt with overedge stitching.

f. Finished width of the belt shall be 1-3/4 (+1/16, -1/8)-inches.

The finished length of the belt for each size coat shall be as shown in Table VII.

503 or

EFd-1 Efd-1

10-14

9. Make buttonhole in belt.

Finished appearance. The buttonhole shall be clean cut, well made and correctly positioned. The buttonhole shall be an eyelet end taper bar type and shall be made to fit a 24-ligne sewing hole button. The purling of the buttonhole shall be on the outside of the belt and the ends of the buttonhole shall be securely tacked.

a. Make a horizontal, eyelet end taper bar type buttonhole, cut 5/8-inch long, midway between upper and lower finished edges of the belt, with the front inside edge of the buttonhole 1/2 (±1/8)-inch from the overedge stitched end and with the ends of buttonhole securely tacked.

Btnhl

50 per btnhl (min.)

incl.tack

10.

Sew on belt button and secure belt buckle.

Finished appearance. The button shall be positioned and securely sewn to the belt with the ends of the stitching securely tacked.

a. Mark the underside of the belt for the location of the 24-ligne sewing hole button. The center of the button for the buckle end of

Seam and Stitching

Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/

10.

Sew on belt button and secure belt buckle. (cont’d) belt shall be 3-5/8 (±1/8)-inches from the overedged stitched end of the belt.

b. Securely sew button. The button shall properly engage buttonhole in buckle end of belt. Secure belt buckle by buttoning the end of the belt through the buckle.

301 or 101 or Hand

14-16 p/btn 14-16 p/btn

4-6 (dbl thread)

5 nylon

11. Clean and press belt.

Finished appearance. The belt shall be clean and well pressed.

a. Trim all ends of stitching and remove all loose ends of thread from the belt. Remove all spots and stains from the belt without injury to the material.

12.

Make fronts. (Join center fronts, front princess, and front side).

Finished appearance. The princess and side front seam shall be shall finish without gathers, puckers or pleats, with fullness placed in accordance with the notches on pattern. The seams shall be pressed opened and flat.

a. The fronts shall consist of a center front, front princess, and front side.

b. Position each center front with it corresponding front princess along the princess seam, with raw edges even and matching notches to ease fullness. Join with a 3/8-inch seam.

8-10

Seam and Stitching

Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/

12.

Make fronts. (Join center fronts, front princess, and front side).

c. Position each front princess with its corresponding front side along the side front seam, with raw edges even and matching notches to ease fullness. Join with a 3/8-inch seam.

d. Spread open the princess and side front seam, and press flat with a heated pressing iron.

e. Press and shape the fronts, from the waist to the top edge, on a suitable type heated pressing machine, shrinking the fronts to eliminate the excess fullness of the chest.

13.

Make shoulder loops.

Finished appearance. The shoulder loops shall be uniformly stitched and shall finish smooth and flat, without twists, gathers, puckers, pleats, or raw edges and shall be uniform in shape and size in accordance with the shoulder loop template. The shoulder loop shall finish 2-1/4 (±1/8)-inches wide at the armhole seam and tapering to 1-1/2 (±1/8)-inches at the base of point. The eyelet end taper bar buttonholes shall be clean cut, well made, properly positioned according to the markings on the template, and the stitching shall be securely caught in the basic material. The purling of the buttonholes shall be on the outside of the shoulder loops.

a. The shoulder loops shall be made of two plies of basic material and fusible interlining. The fusible interlining shall be on the top ply.

Seam and Stitching

Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/

13.

Make shoulder loops. (cont’d)

b. Place top and bottom ply right sides together and stitch 3/16-inch in from raw edge along sides and pointed end leaving straight end open. Turn shoulder loop, work out point and edges. Press shoulder loop smooth and flat.

c. Topstitch around the sides and pointed end 1/4-inch from the edge.

d. A decorative box-x stitch shall be topstitched on shoulder loop in accordance with markings on the pattern. .

e. Make a eyelet end taper bar buttonhole centered on the pointed end of each shoulder loop, according to the markings on the pattern, with cut opening not less than 5/8-inch nor more than 3/4-inch

SSe-1

Box-x

90-95 per

14.

Make chest flaps and pocket outer flaps.

Finished appearance. The pocket flaps shall be uniformly stitched and shall finish smooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers, pleats, or raw edges. The pocket flaps shall be uniform in shape and size in accordance with the finished pocket flap template. The seamed edges, the corners and points of the pocket flaps shall be well worked out and the linings or facing shall not be visible on the outside of the pocket flaps. The buttonholes shall be clean cut, well made, properly positioned, and the stitching shall be securely caught in the material.

Seam and Stitching

Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/

Make chest pocket flaps and lower pocket flaps. (cont’d)

a. With right sides together, seam chest pocket flap facing to chest pocket flaps and pocket outer flap facing to outer pocket flaps, notch seam allowance on the bottom edge between corners and trim corners. When pocket flaps are trimmed during the sewing operation to 3/16-inch or less, it will not be necessary to notch.

b. Turn and work out edges, points, and corners. Edge baste along the raw edges of pocket flaps. With lining and pocketing sides up, press pocket flaps flat. The lining and pocketing shall not be visible on the outside of pocket flaps.

c. Topstitch 1/4-inch along finished edges.

d. Make a vertical eyelet end taper bar buttonhole in each pocket flap centered between the side edges and with the inside edge of the eyelet 5/8 to 3/4-inch from the bottom edge or point of pocket flap.

Only the eyelet portion of the buttonhole shall be cut. The finished buttonhole shall measure 5/8 to 3/4-inch.

e. Align chest pocket flaps to chest pocket flap template and lower pocket outer flap to pocket outer flap template, trim flaps, then overedge stitch the top raw edges of the pocket flap together 1/8 to 3/16-inch gage.

NOTE: Care shall be exercised so that the material does not stretch when overedging. Overedge stitching has a tendency to or

SSe-2(a)

SSe-2(a)

SSe-1

90-95 per

6-8

6-8

36-45 or

0 nylon

Comrcl

36-45 or

Seam and Stitching

Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/

Make chest pocket flaps and lower pocket flaps. (cont’d) stretch the raw edges to the point where the ends may protrude beyond the side of the pocket flaps when stitched to the coat. Distortion from overedging is not acceptable in finished pocket flap.

15.

Make collar.

Finished appearance. The collar shall be uniform in appearance, and the edges shall be smooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers, pleats or raw edges at the top and sides.

a. With right sides together, stitch top edge of collar stand to bottom edge of top collar at 1/4-inch. Press seam open and flat.

b. Position the top edge of finished undercollar along seamline of straight top edge of top collar matching the notches and distributing fullness of top collar between the notches on the outer edge of the undercollar and top collar. Baste and zigzag stitch the under collar to the top collar beginning at center back with 3/8-inch lapped seam.

c. With right sides together, stitch top collar to the undercollar along the side edges, distributing the proper fullness.

d. Trim and turn the top collar.

NOTE: When simulated hand stitching is used, the operation shall precede collar basting and the fullness of the top collar shall be distributed between the matched notches on the outer edge of the undercollar and top collar.

zig-zag width 3/16

Seam and Stitching

Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/ Looper

15. Make collar. (cont’d)

e. Position and sew size label and hanger loop to be centered on collar neckline. Label shall be plainly visible. Hanger loop shall measure finished 2 (±1/2)-inches long.

f. Baste collar edge and press.

g. Collar shaping: Press and crease the roll line of the top collar and the undercollar together in one operation to shape, holding the creaseline short spreading top collar over undercollar to prevent undercollar showing.

Hand or

4-8

16.

Make sleeves and sleeve linings.

Finished appearance. The sleeves and sleeve lining shall be uniform in width and length. The outseams of the sleeves and sleeve lining shall have the fullness smoothly distributed according to the notches on the pattern. The seams shall be pressed smooth and flat and shall be without gathers, puckers, pleats, or raw edges. Sleeve and sleeve lining shall be left unattached at hem.

a. Join sleeve outseam, align raw edges, match and distribute fullness between notches, and stitch at 3/4-inch. Join inseam, aligning raw edges, matching at armhole and hem, and stitch flat at 3/8-inch.

b. Join sleeve lining outseam, align raw edges, match and distribute fullness between notches, and stitch at 3/4-inch. Join

10-12

Seam and Stitching

Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/

16.

Make sleeves and sleeve linings.

inseam, aligning raw edges, matching at armhole and hem, and stitch flat at 3/8-inch.

c. As an alternate, when using a sleeve lining felling machine, join the outseam and inseam of sleeve lining with the distance between the notches on the inseam left open.

d. Sleeve may be rolled pressed prior to hanging to facilitate check on balance of sleeve during sleeve setting operation.

17.

Make front linings.

Finished appearance. The lining shall finish without pleats or puckers.

a. Stitch shoulder dart and press dart towards front.

b. With right sides together, match all notches and raw edges of the coat front facing with its corresponding coat front lining. Stitch at 3/8-inch

c. Press seam allowance toward lining.

Seam and Stitching

Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/

18.

Make front inside vertical double welt pocket and attach combination size-identification and instruction label.

Finished appearance. The inside vertical double welt pocket shall have an opening of 5-1/2 (±3/16).

a. Mark position for a 3/16 to 1/4-inch double welt pocket on right front facing according to the pattern.

b. With right side up, place the pocket inner upper welt lining pieces on the correct side of the right front facing, with the raw edges along the pocket position line. Baste the welt pieces in place.

c. Stitch inside vertical welt pocket according to the markings.

d. Cut through the welt and facing along the pocket position line to 1/2-inch from the ends and diagonally to the corners.

e. Turn the welt pieces through the slit to the wrong side of the facing, and fold the seam away from the opening.

f. Make and stitch the top and bottom piping, and tack corners through tongue notch.

or

g. Pocket opening may be accomplished with a double-piped pocket machine that stitches, cuts, and turns stitched piped edges in one operation. When machine is used, the lining for the piping may

SSbf-3 or SSbg-3

SSk-1

4-6

Comcrl

Seam and Stitching

Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/

18.

Make front inside vertical double welt pocket and attach combination size-identification and instruction label. (cont’d) be trimmed to permit insertion into the machine. The joining seam of the top and bottom piped edges shall be raised-stitched through the facing prior to the pocket closing, and top edge stitched through all plies. Tack the ends of the pocket opening.

NOTE: When this machine is used, the contractor may utilize the machine manufacturer’s recommended piping reinforce-ment material.

h. Position the combination-size-identification label and the certification label to the inside pocket bag 2.