Atch_7_-_Cadet_Service_and_Parade_Cap_Specifications.pdf

UNITED STATES AIR FORCE ACADEMY

SPECIFICATION 490

CAP, SERVICE, BLUE, ELASTIQUE, USAFA CADET

AND

CAP, PARADE, WHITE, USAFA CADET

1 NOVEMBER 2017

CHANGES FROM PRIOR SPECIFICATION:

1. This is the first edition of USAFA CU 490, combining formerly four specifications into one specification in an effort to simplify production. The changes highlighted on this list are changes from the formerly separate specifications.

2. Date change, reformatting.

3. Alternate materials allowed for the visor trim, under visor and crown protector.

4. Schedule of sizes expanded

FA7000-18-R-0008

Attachment #7

USAFA CU 490

1 NOV 2017

CAP, SERVICE, BLUE, ELASTIQUE

AND

CAP, PARADE, WHITE

1. SCOPE.

1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for two types of caps: service, blue, elastique; and parade, dress, white for the male cadets at the United States Air Force Academy, Colorado Springs CO.

1.2 Classification. The caps will be of two types and classes in the following sizes.

Type I Cap - Service, Blue Elastique Type II Cap - Parade, White Naugahyde

Class 1 - Men’s Class 2 - Women’s

1.2.1 Schedule of Sizes. The hats shall be furnished in the following lengths and sizes:

TABLE I

Men's Hat Size Women's Hat Size

6 19

6 1/8 19 1/2

6 1/4 20

6 3/8 20 1/2

6 1/2 20 1/2

6 5/8 21

6 3/4 21 1/2

6 7/8 22

7 22

7 1/8 22 1/2

7 1/4 23

7 3/8 23 1/2

7 1/2 23 1/2

7 5/8 24

7 3/4 24 1/2

7 7/8 25

8 25 1/2

8 1/8 25 1/2

8 1/4 26

8 3/8 26 1/2

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS.

2.1. Applicable Documents. The following documents, of the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal, form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50199 Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester Covered A-A-52094 Thread, Cotton

A-A-52106 Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend A-A-55187 Braid, Textile (Flat) A-A-59517 Cloth, Coated, Vinyl Coated (Artificial Leather) A-A-59826 Thread, Nylon

SPECIFICATIONS

-FEDERAL

MIL-DTL-32075 Label for Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use)

-MILITARY

MIL-B-3461 Button, insignia, metal, uniform and cap MIL-C-3738K Cloth, Elastique, Wool, Type II, 18 ounce, Class 1 MIL-S-3577 Sweatband, headwear (leather) (Available from USAFA) MIL-S-43993 Sweatband, Headwear, Artificial Leather (Available from USAFA) ASTM-D-2475 Standard Specification for Felt ASTM-D-5118 Boxes, Fiberboard Shipping, Fabrication Of

STANDARDS

FED-STD-191 Textile Test Methods FED-STD-311 Leather, Methods Of Sampling And Testing ASTM-D-6193 Stitches, Seams And Stitching ANSI/ASQC-Z1.4 Sampling Procedures And Tables For Inspection By Attributes

(Copies of specifications, standards, drawings, and publications required by contractors in connection with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the Contracting Officer.)

2.1.2. Government Publications. Copies of Specifications, Commercial Item Descriptions, Standards, drawings and other publications required by suppliers in connection with specific procurement functions may be obtained by contacting the ASSIST Online Database, https://assist.dla.mil or by contacting:

Document Automation and Production Service, Building 4/D

700 Robbins Avenue

Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.

2.2. Non-Government Publications. The following documents form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise indicated, the issues of the documents, which are DOD adopted, are those listed in the issue of the DODISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS are the issues of documents cited in the solicitation ().

2.2.1. American Society For Testing and Material

Contact:

ASTM 100 Barr Harbor Dr, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, Phone (610) 832-9585

2.2.2. The Color Association of the United States

Contact:

Color Association of the United States, Inc.

343 Lexington Avenue New York, NY 10016-0927

2.2.3. For American National Standard Institute such as the following

Contact:

ASTM

1819 L Street NW 6th floor Washington, DC, 20036 Phone: 212-642-4900 (customer Service)

2.3. Order of Precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

2.3.1. Regarding Documents. The documents form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise indicated, the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids shall apply.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1. Samples. Samples are furnished only for guidance and information to the contractor. Variations from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case this specification shall govern.

3.2. First Article. A first article is a prototype made by the successful contractor in the solicitation. It must be made from components that meet this specification’s requirements and Federal Acquisition Requirements. Manufacturer shall supply a step-by-step description of his operating procedure when requested in lieu of a site survey. One finished cap of each type and class shall be furnished. The men’s shall be size 7-1/8 and the women’s shall be size 21-½.

3.2.1. First Article Requirements. When required and before each production is commenced, the contractor shall submit to the contracting officer, for approval, one finished jacket of each gender in the master pattern size, conforming to the requirements of this specification and Component Certificates of Compliance from component suppliers, guaranteeing compliance with all Federal laws and regulations.

Contractors are notified that, where articles have been previously furnished and been accepted (within the last 5 years), the requirement for first article approval may be waived. Contractors must have the ability to develop and grade working patterns from first article or prototype caps submitted.

3.2.2. Fabrication and Assembly of the First Article. The first article shall be made by the contractor and shall meet all requirements outlined in this specification. The first article shall use parts and materials, and be assembled in a manner identical to that to be used in production.

3.3. Materials

3.3.1. Basic Fabric.

Type I - The basic material for Type I Blue Elastique Service Cap and the hat band of the Type II Parade Cap shall be cloth, elastique, wool, and 18.0 ounces, in accordance with Specification MIL-C-3738K, dated 31 March 1987. The material to be fused to the basic fabric shall be a polyester/cotton drill fabric weighting 4.0 ounces per yard + 10 percent. Water-base latex adhesive shall be used to permanently bond fabric to prevent separation or peeling of the various layers during normal use. In addition, the fusible interlining shall have separation strength of 20 ounces per inch when tested as specified in FED-STD-191, as listed in Table V, Test Method 5951. The basic material for Type I Blue Elastique Service Cap and the hat band of the Type II Parade Cap is Government Furnished Material (GFM). To obtain the basic material for Type I and Type II caps, contact the Contracting Administrator at 8110 Industrial Drive, Suite 200, U.S.

Air Force Academy, Colorado Springs, CO 80840-2315.

Type II - The basic material shall be vinyl-coated cloth (artificial leather) conforming to Class 7, untreated white of Federal Specification A-A-59517, with the following exceptions:

a. The width of the base and coated cloths is not required.

b. The commercial designation of the base cloth shall be 3.70 ounces per square yard.

c. The weight of the coated cloth shall be 15.0 ounces per square yard (minimum).

d. The grain shall be a simulated twill-weave embossing.

e. The coating weight shall be 12.0 ounces per square yard on the outside (face) as a minimum.

f. There shall be a flash coating of vinyl on the inside of the cover; the weight shall not exceed 0.5 ounces per square yard and shall be exclusive of the minimum-weight requirement of the coating on the face (outside) side.

3.3.2. Lining. The material for lining the caps shall be Cloth, Twill Or Plain Weave, Polyester And Polyester (lining), 4.3 ounce, of Commercial Item Description A-A-52106. The material for lining the Type I cap shall be gray and shall be used for inner body band, crown, side quarters, and cover of the front stayer. The material for the Type II cap shall be white.

3.3.2.1. Crown Seam Binding. The bias binding for the crown seam shall be of the rayon lining material, bias cut, with raw edges folded under to finish 3/8” wide.

3.3.3 Buttons, Hardware & Fasteners.

3.3.3.1. Buttons. The buttons for the cap shall be metal, 25 line, and conform to the requirements for Type I, Style I, Class B, Screw Post of Specification MIL-B-3461G.

3.3.3.2. Eyelets. The eyelets for the sides and front shall be brass, black enameled for Type I caps, white enameled for Type II caps, and conform to the dimensions as shown in Figure 9. Prior to coating, Th.

eyelets will be thoroughly cleaned, degreased, and prepared for enameling using a phosphoric acid detergent-type solution, followed by thorough rinsing and drying. The eyelets shall be given a coat of enamel. The front insignia eyelet, in cover, shall be clinched over a brass washer.

3.3.3.3. Staples. The staples for the loops on the chinstrap, attaching-the bow to the sweatband, and the button posts shall be commercial flat-head staples, stamped from steel wire, .025 inch thick. The staples shall have a non-corrosive finish.

3.3.3.4. Steel Twin Wire. The steel twin wire, 1 inch, 3/8 inch an 1/4 inch widths for the inner body band grommet and the front stayer, shall be a standard commercial twin wire-cloth tape. The steel wire used therein shall be hard-rolled, cold-finished, carbon steel, cadmium or zinc-plated, flat wire having a No.4 edge, and shall be 0.016 inch thick by 0.090 inch wide.

3.3.3.5. “J” Hook. The brass “J” hook for attaching to blue braid shall be brass, black enameled. 5/8” overall length, a 1/8” diameter eyelet, 1/16” throat of hook, and the hook portion 1/4” long. One brass “J” hook shall be attached to the lower part of the center-back seam of the frame even with the bottom edge of the braid. Punch a hole and press one 5/16” eyelet through “J” hook, braid, and frame from the outside of the cap, and clinch over a brass washer. Eyelet shall be securely clinched with brass washer. Eyelets and “J” hook shall be black.

3.3.3.6. Brass Washer. Brass washers of appropriate size shall be used to back/clinch the eyelets, the eyelet fastening the J-hook to the cap and the button posts. See operation 17b.

3.3.4. Interlining, General. The interlining/stiffeners used for these caps shall be as specified or equal.

3.3.4.1. Haircloth, Synthetic. The haircloth used for the front and side quarters shall be laminated onto the basic fabric. The minimum standards for the haircloth for the front stayer and quarters are listed in the following chart:

CHARACTERISTIC SYNTHETIC

MINIMUM MAXIMUM

Weight, ounces per square yard

7.5 8.5

Yarns per inch:

Warp 49 - Filling 28 - Thickness, inch 0.024 -

Stiffness, Inch-lib Warp - - Filling 0.09 -

Shrinkage in dry cleaning:

Percent:

Warp - 1.0 Filling - 0.5

3.3.4.2. Inner Body Band. The inner body band shall be of high density (linear) polyethylene plastic material meeting the requirements of ASTM D4976, except that the low-temperature brittleness, dielectric constant, dissipation factor, and thermal-stress cracking resistance properties shall not apply (see 6.5). A suitable grade or a blend of Class C materials shall be used to give the required properties. The bands shall be extruded, stripped, split, or cut 2 1/8” + 1/16” wide, with a thickness of 0.050” + 0.002”. At least one side of the material shall have a dull finish.

3.3.4.2.1. Punching or Perforating. The plastic band shall be perforate by punching holes in a repetitive pattern, for ventilation. To keep the stability of the band, a 3/8" margin at the top and bottom shall remain free of holes.

3.3.4.2.2. Stiffness and Bending. The plastic band shall be tested for stiffness at room temperature according to Method 4211 of Federal Standard 311, using a span length of 1.0 inch, a moment weight of

1.0 inch/pound and measuring the load at 20 degrees on the angular deflection scale. The bands shall have a stiffness (scale reading) between 11 and 27 inclusive. The band material shall show no cracks after the bending test.

3.3.4.3. Grommet. The grommet shall consist of a braided nylon tubing, 3/8” steel twin wire and adhesive tape.

3.3.4.3.1. Nylon Tubing. The nylon tubing shall be a commercial product as manufactured by the A. H.

Rice Company, Pittsfield MA, Style No. 8602, 7/8”, OR EQUAL

3.3.4.3.2. Steel Wire. The steel wire shall be spring steel 5/16” + 1/16” wide and 0.020” + 0.005” thick, cut to required size. The wire shall be completely covered with white pyroxylin coating. The coupling shall be 1” + 1/8” long and zinc or cadmium coated to withstand 25 hours of the salt spray when tested as specified in 4.2.1.

3.3.4.3.3. Grommet Measurements. The grommet lengths, sizes of caps and head measurements shall be as specified below.

LENGTH OF GROMMETS (INCHES)

Size of Cap

Head Measurement Length of Steel Wire

(Also Outside Circumference of Grommet) Men Women

Men’s Women’s 6 19 18 7/8 31 1/4 31 6 1/8 19 1/2 19 3/8 31 1/2 31 6 1/4 20 19 5/8 31 3/4 31 ½ 6 3/8 20 1/2 20 1/8 32 31 ½ 6 1/2 20 1/2 20 1/2 32 1/4 6 5/8 21 20 7/8 32 1/2 32 6 3/4 21 1/2 21 1/4 32 3/4 32 6 7/8 22 21 5/8 33 7 22 22 33 1/4 32 ½ 7 1/8 22 1/2 22 3/8 33 1/2 32 ½ 7 1/4 23 22 3/4 33 3/4 33 7 3/8 23 1/2 23 1/8 34 33 7 1/2 23 1/2 23 1/2 34 1/4 7 5/8 24 23 7/8 34 1/2 33 ½ 7 3/4 24 1/2 24 1/4 34 3/4 33 ½ 7 7/8 25 24 5/8 35 34 8 25 1/2 24 3/4 35 1/4 34

Tolerance Size of Cap measurements +1/8”.

Tolerance – Grommet measurements + 1/8”.

3.3.4.3.4. Tape. The tape for closing wire and grommet shall be tape, adhesive, and white, 1” wide commercial.

3.3.5. Sweatband. The leather for the sweatband shall be leather, sheepskin, full grained, 2.5 oz + .5 oz (minimum weight) hatter’s leather, calf finish, dyed black. The sweatband shall be 1 1/2” + 1/8” wide, finished with a turned edge, perforated throughout with a 4-hole design; otherwise to be accordance with the following requirements. As an alternate the sweatband may be constructed of black artificial leather conforming to MIL-S-43993, and it shall be 1-1/2+ 1/8 inches in width.

LEATHER SWEATBAND REQUIREMENTS

Type The leather shall be sheepskin. Tanned with glutaraldehyde or similar substance to create a perspiration resistant product.

Thickness The thickness shall be 2.5 oz + .5oz when inspected as follows. The lot size shall be expressed in units of sweatbands. The sample unit shall be one finished sweatband. The inspection level shall be S-3 and the AQL, expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be 4.0 Thickness shall be determined in accordance with the procedure specified for fabricated leather articles in method 1011 of FED-STD-311.

LEATHER SWEATBAND REQUIREMENTS

Color The color of the sweatband shall be black. The grain side of the leather shall have a smooth dull finish. The finish shall contain no lead chromate, lead pigments or other lead salts. Allowance has been made for small amounts of chrome that may be introduced during the tanning or dyeing operations. Unless otherwise specified, the leather shall be such that the finished sweatband shall be embossed with an imitation turned line 1/8” from the top edge.

Blocking The finish of the leather shall not become tacky when tested via test method 3121 of FED-STD-311. At least 80 percent of the tested specimens shall separate with ease and shall show no grain damage or peeling of the finish.

Shrinkage Temperature

The leather shall have a shrinkage temperature of not less than 85oC when tested via test method 7011 of FED-STD-311.

Colorfastness The leather shall be tested for resistance to dry and wet crocking via test method 3031 of FED-STD-311. Staining of the dry and wet crock cloths shall be not lower numerically than AATCC value 4.

Staining The leather shall be tested for resistance to staining via test method 3021 of FED-STD-311. Staining of the test pad shall be not lower numerically than AATCC value 4.

Area Stability to Perspiration

The leather shall be tested for area stability to perspiration via test method 3211 of FED-STD-311. At least 80 percent of the tested specimens shall have an area loss no greater than 15 percent.

Cracking At least 80 percent of the specimens shall not crack when tested via test method 6421 of FED-STD-311.

Chemical Requirements

The leather shall have an ash characteristic of no more than 5.0, a lead characteristic of zero, a pH characteristic not less than 3.3 and a chromic oxide percent of not more than 0.5, when tested via test methods 6421, 6551, 6621, 6515 respectively of FED-STD-311.

Workmanship The finished leather sweatbands shall conform to the quality of product established by this table and the occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable acceptable quality levels.

3.3.6. Labels. Each cap shall be identified by means of a size label or marking, a contractor’s label or marking, identification and barcode label.

3.3.6.1. Contractor’s Label. The material for the contractors label shall be cloth, label, conforming to Type VI, Class 4, of Specification DDD-L-20, and it shall not be treated for mildew resistance. The label shall be stitched on the underside of the sweatband at the side. The contractor’s label shall be 2 7/8” x 1 1/2” with the nomenclature letters 1/4” in height and remaining items in letters 1/8” in height, and shall carry the following information:

Cap, Service, Blue, Elastique

OR

Cap, Parade, White

Contractor’s Name Contractor’s Address Contract Date and Number

OR

The contractor’s label may be indelibly stamped with indelible ink on the underside of the sweatband.

3.3.6.2. Size Label. The size label may be of the same material as the contractor’s label, legibly stamped or embossed. The whole numbers shall be not less than 1/4” in height and the fractions not less than 1/8” in height. The size label or marking shall be positioned on the outside of the sweatband. 3/8” to 1/2” from the top edge and to the right or left of the back seam, or label can be caught in sweatband stitching.

3.3.6.3. Identification Label. The linen name label or card size approximately 1 1/2” x 3”, shall be furnished with each cap and contain the following information:

Name________________________________

SSN_________________________________

Squadron_____________________________

3.3.6.4. Size/Barcode Label. The ticket shall be approximately 2” x 3’. The numbers for the size shall be at least 1/4” in height. Label will also be barcode using type code 39 barcode. Barcode will consist of the USAFA Cadet Issue stock number for each size. Label will be attached to the outside of each box for convenience of wand reading.

3.3.6.5. Content Label. Each of the caps shall be labeled in accordance with the Tool Products Labeling Act of 1939. The legend may be incorporated into contractor’s label.

3.3.7. Polyester/Plastic Film (Crown Protector). The material for the crown protector shall be transparent polyester film no more than 20 gauge in thickness. The crown protector shall have a business card pocket of self-material.

3.3.8. Tie Bow. The tie bow on the sweatband shall be a commercial product of ribbon, polyester, braided, flat, 1/4” wide, and dyed a light-brown shade to match the sweatband. Material shall show good fastness to perspiration.

3.3.9 Braid.

3.3.9.1. Braid. The braid for the cap shall be mohair flat, 1 3/4” wide, conforming to Type I, Class 3, of Specification A-A-55187 except that it shall show “fair” to color fastness to light, dry cleaning, crocking, and perspiration when tested and specified. The color of braid shall be blue USAF Color Shade No.

1095.

3.3.9.2. Braid. The decorative braid for the cap shall be Braid, A.H. Rice Company, Style 8584, Color 493, Silver Grey, Nylon, President, 3/16” special finish, OR EQUAL.

3.3.10. Thread.

3.3.10.1. Cotton Thread. The cotton thread for seaming and stitching shall be thread, cotton, machine, mercerized, Size A, conforming to Specification A-A-52094. The thread shall be vet dyed and shall be black. For crown, front piece, and side quarters on Type II cap, the thread shall be white.

3.3.10.2. Nylon Thread. The nylon thread for attaching sweatband shall be brown, size C, conforming to Federal Specification V-T-295. The thread for tacking front stayer to band and joining visor to cap shall be thread, black, size E.

3.3.11. Visor for Type I Service Hat. The visor consists of three component parts. The top part is made of slick polyurethane porvair; the bottom part is made of leather ply, artificial leather or luggage plastic;

and binding is metallized polyester film/flexible vinyl or metalized ¼” metalized molding/binding extrusion.

3.3.11.1. Slick Polyurethane Porvair. (Top): The polyurethane porvair is a shiny black 0.60 + .003 inches thick artificial leather.

3.3.11.2. Leather/Artificial Leather. (Bottom): The material for the visor bottom piece is split cowhide vegetable-tanned leather, 2- or 3-ply thick, laminated together to make a total thickness of 6 to 7 ounces.

The leather is finished pearl gray with a priming coat of an acrylate-base lacquer and one or more coats pyroxylin lacquer or vinyl resin finish to give a water-repellent surface. (There shall be no spotting, discoloration, or blistering of the leather.) The face side of the leather has a finely embossed skiver finish. The leather bottom is bevel-skived on the inside and outside edges, approximately 3/8” wide.

3.3.11.3. Synthetic. (Bottom): As an alternate the finely embossed skiver finish leather bottom, a similar, finished in appearance, high quality synthetic material may be used. The material shall be similar to the leather in color, thickness, and show no spotting, discoloration or blistering. In addition the material shall not crack or warp under normal use. Samples of the synthetic material must be presented to USAFA upon request and inspected by the Cadet Uniforms Section for suitability.

3.3.11.4. Visor Binding. The binding shall be .0092 metallized polyester film/0035 flexible vinyl and shall be sewn on with a matching thread of appropriate strength and fiber for the intended purpose. Alternately horseshoe shaped door edge molding or equal may be used. The molding is a metalized vinyl molding, chrome in appearance with glue inside along the crease opposite the mouth. The molding/trim shall be bartacked/anchored at each end in addition to being embedded in the sweatband/hatband seam. The anchoring system shall not be visible. The molding/trim shall not be stitched beyond the anchoring system.

3.3.11.5. Visor Cushion. The material for the visor cushion shall conform to Type I, classification 9R4 of ASTM-D-2475 except that the material shall be ¼” thick and shall have fair colorfastness to wet dry cleaning. The visor cushion shall be cut ¾ + 1/8 inch wide and shall be the length of the visor. In lieu of the felt pad, a 3/8” wide and ¼” thick expanded form polyvinyl chloride pad may be used. It shall be attached with self-adhesive (see 4.4.1).

3.3.12. Chin Strap and Decorative Strap.

3.3.12.1. Polyurethane for Chin Strap and Front Decorative Strap. The Polyurethane shall be a dull black .060 + .003 inches thick and 5/8 inch wide. The edge of the strap shall be stained and the face finished with a definite embossed line 1/16 inch from the top and bottom edges. The face surface of straps shall be flexible and free of scars, scratches and other defects that would affect appearance of serviceability.

3.3.12.2. Decorative/Front Strap. All caps shall be fitted with a deco front strap made in two sections.

One end of each section shall be provided with a 3/16” aperture, the center of which shall be equidistant from the sides and 5/16” from end of strap. The opposite end of each section shall be provided with a loop having a rounded end, which shall be cut in one piece. The loop for the top strap shall be stitched 1/16” from each edge, catching the top strap in both rows of stitching. The ends of the loop shall be folded over the sides of the top strap and closed with two non-corrosive stapes, forming a loop for the bottom strap shall be caught by the two staples instead of the stitching. Each section shall be made the same length, so that, when the strap is assembled, the front edge of the loops shall be the same distance from the center of the buttons on each side. (See Figures 3, 4, and 5.)

3.3.12.3. Chin-Strap Construction. Each frame/cap shall be fitted with a back strap made in two sections going around the back of the cap, one fitted to a 5/8” wide strap. The size o the buckle shall be 5/16”.

There shall be a 1/2” wide loop on the left section for the adjusting (right-side section to go through). The ends of the loop shall be folded over the sides of the left section and closed with two non-corrosive staples forming a loop for the right side to pass through. The right side of the chin strap, starting 3-1/4” from the edge of the right side, shall have 12 perforated eyelets 1/8” in diameter that are 3/8” apart measured center-to center for adjustment. There shall be an eyelet at each end of the chinstrap to fit the side buttons of the cap.

3.4 Design. The cap shall be as shown in Figures 1 through 10 of this specification. The cap shall consist of one front piece, two side quarters, and a top crown piece. The cap shall be fully lined. The top crown piece shall also have a plastic crown protector. The cap shall be provided with a removable grommet, a plastic visor, adjustable chinstrap, front decorative strap, metal “J” hook, a perforated sweatband and a permanently attached front stayer. The front of the cap shall be vertical. The band shall be covered with a 1 3/4” wide mohair braid, with a 3/16” wide silver-gray braid on the top edge only.

The visors for the Type I, and Type II service cap shall be metallized polyester film/flexible vinyl binding on a black vinyl plastic top.

3.5. Patterns. All patterns shall be made by the contractor to provide a finished cap conforming to the requirements of this specification. The USAF Academy shall furnish one master pattern in size 7 1/8.

3.6. Construction. The hats shall be constructed in approximate accordance with Table of Operations herein. The manufacturer is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed therein.

Additional pressing, basting, or holding stitching to facilitate manufacture may be used, provided the thread is removed or does not show on the finished caps.

3.6.1. Stitches and Seams. Stitch, seam and stitching types specified in Table IV shall conform to the requirements of ASTM-D6193. When two or more methods, seams or stitches are given for the same operations, either one may be used.

3.6.1.1. Stitches per Inch. The number of stitches per inch as specified in Table IV shall be interpreted to mean the minimum and maximum permitted.

3.6.1.2. Tacking and Backstitching. Thread breaks and ends of all seams and stitching, when not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be securely tacked or backstitched.

3.6.2. Adhesive Shade Tickets. Adhesive shade tickets, when used for shade marking, shall be of paper with a thermo-activated adhesive applied on one side that will withstand moderate steam-blocking operations. The adhesive shall not discolor the material, and the adhesive mass shall not adhere to the material upon removal of the ticket.

3.7. Workmanship. The finished cap shall conform to the quality of product established by this specification. Caps must conform to samples submitted to contracting officer prior to production of entire contract.

3.8. Manufacturing Operations. The caps shall be manufactured by and with the use of all operations listed in Table IV. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed.

TABLE II - MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

No DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION Stitch Type

Seams & Stitching

Type

Stitche s

Per Inch

Thread

Top Bottom

1. CUT CAPS.

a. The crown piece shall be cut with the length in the direction of the warp.

b. The quarters shall be cut across the warp.

c. The body band shall be cut in the direction of the warp.

d. The crown lining shall be cut with the length in the direction of the warp.

e. The quarters lining shall be cut on the bias.

f. The inside buckram band lining shall be cut on the bias.

g. The stayer lining shall be cut either in the direction of the warp or courses.

h. The lining material for taping the inside crown seam shall be cut on the bias, one inch wide.

i. The haircloth for the front stayer and front side bodies shall be cut so that the horsehair shall be vertical in the finished stiffener

j. The inside buckram band shall be cut in the direction of the warp.

k. The buckram for reinforcing tapes on the top of the side bodies shall be one inch wide, cut on the bias.

l. The visor top, liner, and bottom shall be die-cut for accuracy.

2. REPLACEMENT OF DAMAGED

PARTS.

TABLE II - MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

No DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION Stitch Type

Seams & Stitching

Type

Stitche s

Per Inch

Thread

Top Bottom

a. Any part of the cap or lining materials containing holes or weakening defects, such as smashes, multiple floats, loose or weakening slubs, and dye streaks, shade bars or unsightly slubs affecting appearance or serviceability, shall be replace at the time of cutting.

b. Replace any part damaged during the manufacturing process that may affect the appearance or serviceability.

3. SHADE MARKING.

a. All parts shall be marked or ticketed to insure a uniform shade and proper assembly throughout the cap.

b. The use of metal fastening devices is permitted on wool, but prohibited or rayon linings. When metal staples are used on wool, the wire shall be aluminum.

c. When adhesive type shade tickets are used, they shall conform to the requirements of para 3.3.12.

4. MAKE INNER BODY BAND. Finished Appearance: The biased lining strip shall be attached to the inside of the inner body band, covering the twin wire, so that in the finished band the lining is flat and smooth without distortion.

a. The inner body band shall be 2 1/8” + 1/16” in width and cut to proper length for each size cap.

b. Overlap the ends of the inner body band 1” and seam together with a row of stitching 3-5 inches in length on each edge of band. Place two additional rows of stitching 1/2” to 3/4” apart across width of the inner body band catching both ends of the overlap in the stitching.

101, 301 or

SSa-1 6-8 A A

TABLE II - MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

No DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION Stitch Type

Seams & Stitching

Type

Stitche s

Per Inch

Thread

Top Bottom

c. Stitch a 1/4” twin wire to the inside of the band approximately 1” down from top edge. The twin wire ends shall be overlapped 1 1/2”.

301 or

SSa-1 6-8 A A

d. Position the bias cut lining on top edge of band with lining edges extending 5/8” to 3/4” on outside of band and seam1/4” gauge from top of band. Stitching shall not show through on inside of lining. The edges of the lining shall be overlapped1” with the end of lining that will show on inside to be turned under a minimum of 1”.

101 or

SSa-1 6-8 A A

e. Fold the lining over the inside of the band covering the twin wire and seam 1/4” gauge from bottom edge.

101 or

SSa-1 6-8 A A

f. The front welt piece shall be of the basic material, 1 5/16” wide extending across visor area and 1 1/2” beyond buttons on each side.

g. Overcast on edge of the front welt strip.

501 SSa-1 6-8 A A

h. Fold welt piece lengthwise and place over bottom edge of inner body band, with overcast edge on inside and 9/16” to 5/8” up from bottom of band.

301 or

SSa-1 6-9 A A

5. MAKE THE FRONT STAYER.

a. The front stayer shall be made of two pieces of haircloth; one strip of 1” wide, twin wire and be completely covered with rayon lining material. The front stayer shall measure 3 5/8” + 1/8” wide at the top, 2 1/4” + 1/8” high at the sides and 3 7/8” + 1/8” high at the center. The top edge of the front stayer shall conform to the curvature of the crown and the bottom edge shall be straight.

b. Match the bottom, top and side edges of the two pieces of haircloth.

301 SSa-1 8-10 A A

TABLE II - MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

No DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION Stitch Type

Seams & Stitching

Type

Stitche s

Per Inch

Thread

Top Bottom

Stitch the two pieces of haircloth together along the top edge only, with a row of stitching placed 3/16” down from top edge. Insert 3 5/8” piece of one-inch wide twin wire between the two pieces of haircloth with edges lined up at bottom and centered on haircloth. Stitch twin wire to haircloth with one row of stitching through the haircloth and twin wire lengthwise. Cover haircloth with rayon lining. Stitch lining to stayer along sides across top edge and through center of stayer and twin wire. The lining shall extend 3/8” + 1/16” above top edge of stayer and be caught in the lower row of stitching where the crown seam is double stitched.

6. MAKE BAND. Finished Appearance:

The braid shall finish smooth and flat without puckering or twisting.

a. Band shall be made of a strip of Type I basic material for both the Type I and Type II caps, 3 1/4” wide, 1 3/4” wide mohair braid and one 3/16” wide silver-gray braid cut to fit the proper size cap.

b. Overcast stitch top and bottom edges of basic material.

501 SSa-1 6-8 A A

c. Position the mohair braid 1/4” below top edge of band and stitch to band 1/32” to1/16” gauge from each edge.

101 SSa-1 10-12 A A

d. Position silver-gray braid even with top edge of the mohair braid and double stitch to band with two rows of stitching 1/16” apart.

301 SSa-1 10-12 A A

e. Join back seam of band with 5/8” seam allowance, catching the ends of braid in the stitching.

301 SSa-1 10-12 A A

f. Press back seam open and flat.

g. Turn under edge and form a hem on 301 SSa-1 10-12 A A

TABLE II - MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

No DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION Stitch Type

Seams & Stitching

Type

Stitche s

Per Inch

Thread

Top Bottom the front edge, over the visor area only, to finish 3/16” below bottom of braid.

7. MAKE CROWN. Finished Appearance:

The crown and crown lining piece shall not be twisted. The basting stitches shall not be exposed on the outside of finished crown.

a. Center the crown protector piece on the crown lining and stitch around the circumference of the crown protector 1/8” from edge.

301 SSa-1 8-10 A A

b. Position the card holder on the crown protector piece with the long edge 2” down from the front at center and heat seal on 3 sides 1/16” to 1/8” from edge, leaving one of the short sides open for insertion of the 1 1/2” x 3” name card.

c. The finished crown lining shall be well worked into the crown piece and evenly basted. The basting stitch shall be close to the crown edge.

101 SSa-1 8-10 A A

8. MAKE VISOR.

a. The visor top, filler, center piece and bottom piece shall be laminated together. The components shall be pressed and molded to shape.

b. Both Type I & Type II Hat: The outer edge of the visor shall be bound with a strip of the aluminum-colored metalized polyester film to a depth of 3/16” on the top and 1/4” on the underside, with the upper edge turned under. Alternately door edge may be used.

301 Bsb-1 9 Min A A

9. JOIN QUARTERS. Finished Appearance: The quarters seams of the cap shall be care- fully joined to avoid twisting, puckering, and shall be flat without bulkiness.

a. Laminate haircloth stiffener to the two

TABLE II - MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

No DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION Stitch Type

Seams & Stitching

Type

Stitche s

Per Inch

Thread

Top Bottom front quarters.

b. Join the quarters of the cap with a 1/4” seam allowance.

301 SSa-1 10-12 A A

c. Press joining seams open and flat with a heated pressing iron.

10. JOIN QUARTER LININGS. Finished Appearance: The quarter linings shall be joined that the seams are flat without twisting or puckering.

Join quarter linings with a 1/4” seam allowance.

301 SSa-1 10-12 A A

11. JOIN BAND TO QUARTERS. Finished Appearance: The back seam of band shall be in alignment with back seam of quarters. The band and quarters shall not twist or pucker.

a. Join top edge of band to quarters with a 1/4” seam allowance; catching from stayer and bottom of quarters lining in the stitching.

301 SSa-1 10-12 A A

b. Overcast the edge of the joining seam.

505 SSa-1 7-9 A A

12. JOIN QUARTERS TO CROWN AND

TAPE CROWN SEAM. Finished Appearance: The quarters shall be joined to the crown with the front stayer so positioned that the seams are not twisted or puckered, with the edges even and without distortion of the crown or quarters.

a. Position quarters on crown with outer edges even and single stitch around edge of crown with 1/4: seam allowance catching top of front stayer in seam.

301 SSa-1 8-10 A A

b. The front stayer shall be centered on the quarters even with the top edge of haircloth even with top edge of quarters

301 SSa-1 8-10 A A

TABLE II - MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

No DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION Stitch Type

Seams & Stitching

Type

Stitche s

Per Inch

Thread

Top Bottom and single- stitched through wigan, quarters, and crown.

c. The quarters lining shall be seamed to the crown on the underside keeping the outer edges even. The stitching shall be through crown, and quarters.

301 SSa-1 8-10 A A

d. Press crown seam open and flat with a hand pressing iron.

12.1 Chin Strap Construction. Each cap shall

be fitted with a chin strap made in two sections going around the back of the cap. One section of the chin strap, the left side section, shall have a buckle fitted to a 5/8” wide strap. The size of the buckle shall be 5/16”. There shall be a 1/2” wide loop on the left section for the adjusting (right side section) section to go through. The ends of the loop shall be folded over the sides of the left section and closed with two non-corrosive staples forming a loop for the right side to pass through. The right side of the chin strap, starting 3-1/4” from the edge of the right side, shall have 22 perforated eyelets1/8” in diameter that are 3/8” apart measured center-to-center for adjustment. There shall be an eyelet at each end of the chin strap to fit the side buttons of the cap (See Figure 10).

13. MAKE GROMMET.

a. Grommet shall consist of a 7/8” diameter braided, nylon tubing and 5/16” wide white pyroxylin covered steel wire.

b. Mark and cut steel wire to correct length. Insert wire into nylon tubing, abut ends of wire and close with cadmium clamp.

c. Turn one end of nylon tubing to inside

TABLE II - MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

No DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION Stitch Type

Seams & Stitching

Type

Stitche s

Per Inch

Thread

Top Bottom for approximately 2”, forming a smooth edge. Insert smooth edge into the opposite end over- lapping approximately 2”. Cover ends with white adhesive tape, closing tube and finishing grommet. Raw ends of nylon tubing shall be covered with the white tape.

14. INSERT INNER BODY BAND AND

TACK FRONT STAYER. Finished Appearance: The outer body band shall be so attached to the cap that there will be no twisting or puckering of the braid.

a. Insert inner body band into cap with joining seam on right or left of center back seam near rear of cap. Pull lower edge of body band tight over the bottom edge for the inner body band and stitch with a 3/8” seam allowance, omitting the visor area.

301 OSf-1 7-9 A A

b. Stitch body band to inner band with a 1/2” seam allowance in visor area.

301 OSf-1 7-9 A A

c. The bottom edge of braid shall finish a uniform 3/16” up from bottom edge of band

d. Securely tack front stayer to band through braid at lower edge of mohair braid with 6 to 8 stitches across stayer with the ends securely tacked off.

301 or Hand

Lockstitc h or

Hand

2-4

A3

E-Double Thread

15. SEW ON VISOR. Finished Appearance:

The visor shall be well laminated and molded to shape. The finished visor shall present a good appearance to be devoid of scratches or breaks on the vinyl top piece. The visor shall be accurately centered at front of cap.

a. The visor shall be so positioned on the out- side of cap band that the center of visor is in alignment with center front eyelet of cap and the angle formed

TABLE II - MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

No DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION Stitch Type

Seams & Stitching

Type

Stitche s

Per Inch

Thread

Top Bottom between the visor and front cap is 45 degrees.

b. Join visor to cap with bottom of visor to be1/8” up from bottom edge of band through welt, visor, front stayer and cap with the ends of stitching securely tacked off. Visor shall finish 2 1/8” at the center.

301 or Hand

Lockstitc h or

Hand

10-12 2-4

A3

E-Double Thread

c. The visor stitching shall be covered by the front hem, made in operation 6g (See Figure 8).

16. SET EYELETS. Finished Appearance:

The front eyelet shall be properly centered so that when the insignia is attached it will have the military appearance required. The eyelets in sides of cap shall be accurately spaced and securely clinched.

a. One eyelet shall be positioned in front of cap, centered on the front seam of quarters and be 1-3/16 + 1/16” above the band seam measured to through cap and front stayer and be backed with a brass washer.

b. Two eyelets shall be positioned on each side of cap midway between the crown and the band seam, with each eyelet 1” + 1/8” on each side of the side quarter seam and securely clinched through cap and lining.

17. ATTACHED CHIN STRAP, BUTTONS

AND “J” HOOK. Finished Appearance:

The punch holes for button posts shall be accurately spaced. The chin strap shall not be twisted or uneven.

a. A small hole shall be neatly punched in each side through the cap and inner-body band, on each side 5-1/2” + 1/8” back from the center front, measured from the center of cap to center of

TABLE II - MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

No DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION Stitch Type

Seams & Stitching

Type

Stitche s

Per Inch

Thread

Top Bottom punched hole, and 7/16” + 1/16” up from bottom edge of frame to center of hole. The punch holes for the button post shall be accurately spaced.

b. The button socket post shall be inserted and secured with a metal washer 3/8” diameter.

c. The straps shall be snugly fitted and the buttons shall be screwed into the post and turned so that the insignia is in an upright position.

d. One brass “J” hook shall be attached to the lower part of the center back seam on the frame, with the bottom of the hook even with the bottom edge of the braid. Punch a hole and press one 5/16” eyelet through the “J” hook, braid, and frame from the outside of the cap, and clinch over a brass washer of appropriate size. Eyelet shall be securely clinched. Eyelet and “J” hook shall be black.

e. Attach back strap to cap with the ends of the back strap to be underneath the ends of the decorative strap on the button post. The lower edges of the back strap and decorative strap shall be even with the lower edge of the blue mohair braid.

18. MAKE SWEATBAND AND SET INTO

CAP. Finished Appearance: The sweatband shall not be twisted. The bottom of the sweatband nor the felling stitches shall be exposed beyond the outside lower edge of cap.

a. The ends of the sweatband shall be butted together and joined with a row of zigzag stitching catching the tie bow at the upper edge and reinforced with a strip of 1” bias binding on the underside. If a cloth size label is used, 304 SSa-1 8-10 A A

TABLE II - MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

No DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION Stitch Type

Seams & Stitching

Type

Stitche s

Per Inch

Thread

Top Bottom one edge can be caught in the stitching.

b. The sweatband shall be neatly felled into the cap to give a cushioned effect, with not less than 8 stitches per inch, with a single thread. The sweatband shall not be exposed below the bottom edge of cap Sweatband may be machined through the inner band.

Hand or Machine

8 Min C

c. The sweatband shall finish 1 3/4” + 1/8” in width.

19. BLOCK CAPS. Finished Appearance:

The caps shall be uniformly blocked and shall not be distorted in the blocking.

a. The caps shall be hand blocked to proper shape on a block for each specified size.

b. The blocking shall be done on a five-piece block by thoroughly steaming on the block. The caps shall be thoroughly dried while still on the block in a heated oven.

20. INNER GROMMET.

a. Insert grommet into crown of cap.

b. Check cap for any distortion.

21. CLEAN CAPS. Thread ends shall be trimmed. Loose threads, spots and stains shall be removed. Shade tickets shall be removed without injury to the material.

22. FINAL INSPECTION. Each cap shall be 100 percent inspected for conformance to the requirements of this specification, prior to packaging for shipment to the USAF Academy.

4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4.1. Inspection Responsibility. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the supplier is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements as specified herein. Except as otherwise specified in the contract or order, the supplier may use his own or any commercial laboratory acceptable to the government. The Cadet Uniform Section (10LRS/LGRCU) reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in the specification where such inspections are deemed necessary to assure that the finished product conform to prescribed requirements.

4.1.1. Responsibility for Dimensional Requirements. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the contractor is responsible for ensuring that all specified dimensions have been met.

When the dimensions cannot be examined on the end item, inspection may be made at any point or at all points in the manufacturing process necessary to ensure compliance with all dimensional requirements.

4.1.2. Responsibility for Supplier Certificates of Compliance. Certificates of component compliance with the Federal Acquisition Regulations must be submitted to the Government. This shall be done in the first article process.

4.2. Classification of Inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

1. First Article Inspection

2. Quality Conformance/End Item Inspection

4.3. First Article Inspection. The first article shall be inspected as specified in this document for compliance with design, construction, workmanship, and dimensional requirements.

4.4. Component and Material Inspection. In accordance with 4.1, components and materials shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced specifications, drawings and standards unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this specification or applicable purchase document.

4.5. Inspection Quality Conformance/ End Item. Unless otherwise specified herein, inspection shall be in accordance with ANSI/ASQC Z1.4. The end item shall be examined for defects. Except for defects with an asterisk (*) in the classification column, all defects found during this examination shall be classified in accordance with Table V and Table VI. Defects with an asterisk in the classification column shall be classified as a major defect when affecting appearance or serviceability seriously, and as a minor defect A when affecting appearance or serviceability, but not seriously. The inspection levels shall be II of ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 for major and minor A combined, and S-3 of ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 for minor B. The acceptable quality level for major and minor A combined shall be 2.5 defects per 100 units for major defects, 15 defects per 100 units for major and minor A defects combined, and 40 defects per 100 units for totals (major and minor A and B combined).

GENERAL AND DETAILED DEFECTS AQL

AQL INSPECTION

LEVEL LEVEL

Major 2.5 II Major and Minor A 15.0 II Major, Minor A And 40.0 II Minor B (combined)

**One Class 4.0 S-3

*This table shows the Acceptable Quality Levels and Inspection Levels for defects listed in General and Detailed Defects Table.

**Used for Special Inspection Levels such as finished measurements

4.6. Finished Measurements: Any measurement deviating from the nominal dimensions and tolerances specified in Table III will be scored as a size-measurement defect. All caps shall be properly sized and marked

TABLE III - MEASUREMENT OF CAPS (INCHES)

Measurement and Measurement Description Men’s Women’s Height of cap at front (measured from bottom of band to center of crown seam)

4 ¼ + 1/8 4 1/8 + 1/8

Width of quarters at center front (measured from band seam to center of crown seam)

2 3/8 + 1/8 2 1/8 + 1/8

Width of quarters at side seams (measured from band seam to center of crown seam)

2 ¼ + 1/8 1 5/8 + 1/8

Width of quarters at back seam (measured form band seam to center of crown seam)

2 1/8 + 1/8 1 5/8 + 1/8

Length of visor (measured on upper side) 2 + 1/8 1 5/8 + 1/8 Angle of visor (between the vertical front of cap and visor) 45° + 5° 35° + 5°

TABLE III (Con’t) - CROWN MEASUREMENTS (INCHES)

Size of Cap Length of Crown (Seam to Seam)

Width of Crown (Seam to Seam)

Men’s 6 10 9 5/8 6 1/8 10 1/8 9 ¾ 6 ¼ 10 ¼ 9 7/8 6 3/8 10 3/8 10 6 ½ 10 ½ 10 1/8 6 5/8 10 5/8 10 ¼ 6 ¾ 10 ¾ 10 3/8 6 7/8 10 7/8 10 ½ 7 11 10 5/8 7 1/8 11 1/8 10 ¾ 7 ¼ 11 ¼ 10 7/8 7 3/8 11 3/8 11 7 ½ 11 ½ 11 1/8 7 5/8 11 5/8 11 ¼ 7 ¾ 11 ¾ 11 3/8 7 7/8 11 7/8 11 ½ 8 12 11 5/8

Women’s 19 9 ¾ 9 3/8 19 ½ 9 7/8 9 ½ 20 10 9 5/8 20 ½ 10 1/8 9 ¾ 21 10 ¼ 9 7/8 21 ½ 10 3/8 10

TABLE III (Con’t) - CROWN MEASUREMENTS (INCHES)

Size of Cap Length of Crown (Seam to Seam)

Width of Crown (Seam to Seam)

22 10 ½ 10 1/8 22 ½ 10 5/8 10 ¼ 23 10 ¾ 10 3/8 23 ½ 10 7/8 10 ½ 24 11 10 5/8 24 ½ 11 1/8 10 ¾ 25 11 ¼ 10 7/8 25 ½ 11 3/8 11

‘Tolerance for all crown measurements shall be + 3/16”.

4. 7 General Defects. General defects will be classified as follows:

TABLE V - GENERAL AND DETAILED DEFECTS TABLE

DESCRIPTION

CLASSIFICATION

MAJOR MINOR

A B

MATERIAL DEFECTS AND DAMAGES IN WORKMANSHIP:

A. BASIC FABRIC, LINING AND BRAID:

1. Holes or any weakening defect such as multiple floats, slubs, etc., which may develop into a hole.

X

2. Scissors or knife cuts, tears, mends or burns. X

3. Needle chews which may develop into a hole. X

4. Shade bars, unsightly slubs, etc., affecting appearance. X

5. Braid poorly constructed; i.e., not firmly woven; edges cut…