Attachment_2_-_SPEC_320-08_110103-PKA-MEN'S.pdf

FA7000-17-R-0010

Attachment 2

UNITED STATES AIR FORCE ACADEMY

SPECIFICATION USAFA CU 320-08

3 January 2011

PARKA, MEN, CADET

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1. SCOPE

1.1. Scope. This specification outlines the requirements for one type of parka for the United States Air Force Academy, CO.

1.2. Classification. The parkas shall be of one type in the following sizes:

SCHEDULE OF SIZES

SMALL MEDIUM LARGE X-LARGE

Extra Short Extra Short Extra Short Extra Short Short Short Short Short

Regular Regular Regular Regular Long Long Long Long

Extra Long Extra Long Extra Long Extra Long

LENGTH OF SLIDE FASTENERS

Front Opening (Length-Inches) Plus or Minus 1/2”

X-SHORT SHORT REGULAR LONG X-LONG

SMALL 19 20 22 23 24

MEDIUM 19 20 22 23 24

LARGE 19 21 23 24 25

X-LARGE 19 21 23 24 25

Slide fastener for the hood shall be 13” for all sizes.

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 Applicable Documents. The following specifications and standards of the issue in effect on date of the Invitation for Bid form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein:

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SPECIFICATIONS

Federal

A-A-55634 Zippers (Fastener, Slide, Interlocking) A-A-52094 Thread, cotton A-A-50196 Thread, silk A-A-50199A Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-Covered A-A-55198 Cloth, Melton, Wool (Moth-Proofed)

Military

MIL-B-371 Braid, Textile, Tubular MIL-F-495 Finish, Chemical, Black, for Copper Alloys MIL-C-3735 Cuffs, Knit, Wrist and Ankle, and Cloth, Knitted

STANDARDS

Commercial

ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 American National Standard, Sampling Procedures & tables for Inspection… ASTM-D6193 Stitches, Seams, and Stitching ASTM-D1974 Standard Practice for Methods of Closing, Sealing, and Reinforcing Fiberboard Boxes Military

MIL-STD-129 Marking for Shipment and Storage MIL-DTL-32075 Label; for Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General Use)

(Copies of specifications, standards, drawings, and publications required by suppliers in connection with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer.)

2.2 Textile colors.

2.2.1 For basic fabrics, the Contracting Office, 8110 Industrial Drive, Suite 200, USAFA Academy, Colorado Springs CO 80840-2315.

2.2.2 The Color Association of the United States, Inc., 315 West 39th Street, New York NY 10018, Tel:

212-947-7774 Fax: 212-594-6987.

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3. REQUIREMENTS.

3.1 Sample. Samples are furnished for guidance only. Variations from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case this specification shall govern (see 6.2).

3.2 First Article.

3.2.1 First Article. Before production is commenced, the contractor shall submit to the contracting officer, for approval, the following item:

3.2.2 One finished parka conforming to the requirements of this specification as to design, construction, color, appearance, and in accordance with USAFA standard pattern for a size Medium, Regular.

3.3 Materials.

3.3.1 Basic Fabric. The basic fabric shall be cloth, melton, wool (moth-proofed), 22-ounce, conforming to Type II, Blue 3346 of Specification A-A-55198.

3.3.2 Thread.

3.3.2.1 Thread for seaming, stitching, and sewing USAFA patch shall be machine-twist, silk-finish (glazed), black, conforming to the requirements for Ticket Nos. 30/3 and 40/3, Type 1B3, of Specification A-A-52094. As a contingency poly-core thread A-A50199A may be used for seaming, stitching, merrow stitch and embroidering USAFA patch.

3.3.3 Slide Fasteners. Slide fasteners for the front closures shall be brass, separating, Type III, automatic, Style 7, right-hand separating components, with long tab pull. Slide fasteners for the hood closures shall be brass non-separating, Type I, automatic, Style 4, with short tab pull, in accordance with Commercial Item Description A-A-55634. Brass components of the fasteners shall be finished with a black chemical finish conforming to MIL-F-495, and color shade of the tapes shall match the basic parka fabric.

Note: For the purposes of this specification the definition of right and left hand separating fasteners in paragraph 2.2.11 of A-A-55634 shall supersede the label in the same paragraph. It shall be assumed that the label in error and the fastener depicted is a right hand separating fastener according to the definition.

3.3.3.1 Colored tape shall show at least fair colorfastness to light and dry cleaning and shall show good colorfastness to weathering only.

3.3.3.2 Front Slide Fasteners. The length of the front slide fastener shall extend from the hood joining seam at the neck to within 9” (+ 1/2”) from the bottom hem of parka, as indicated by the pattern notches.

3.3.4 Cuffs. The cuffs shall be fabricated from knit wool conforming to Type I, Class 2, of Specification MIL-C-3735, with the following exceptions:

3.3.4.1 Yarns. The yarns for the cuffs shall be two ends of 26/2 worsted wool yarn (see 3.3.4).

3.3.4.2 The weight shall be a minimum of 11 ounces per square yard.

3.3.4.3 The wales per inch shall be a minimum of 12, and the courses per inch shall be a minimum of 14.

3.3.4.4 The cuffs shall measure 9 1/2” and, when doubled, shall measure 4 3/4”.

3.3.4.5 Size. The finished cuffs, doubled, shall measure 4” in length after being sewn into the sleeves.

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3.3.4.6 Color of Cuffs. The cuffs shall be black.

3.3.5 Cuffs Covering Yarn. The yarn for covering raw edges of cuffs shall be 26/2 worsted wool yarn, and the color shall be black.

3.3.6 Hanger. The hanger shall be black, 3 1/2” finished length (+/- 1/4”) long, conforming to Type III of Specification MIL-B-371.

3.3.7 Lettering. The letters USAFA, sewn on the left breast, shall be embroidered in white on a patch of the black basic fabric that has merrow edges. The letters shall be 1 1/2” high by 1” wide by 1/4” line width (see figures 1 and 2 for the lettering samples). Suggested source for embroidered patch is: The Leonard Corporation, 323 East Allegheny Avenue, Philadelphia PA 19134, phone (215) 426-6646, OR EQUAL.

3.3.8 Binding. The binding for the seams and raw edges shall be a commercial cotton cloth or tape, black, bias cut 1 1/2” (+/- 1/8”) wide and be folded to finish 3/4” wide.

3.3.9 Labels. Each jacket shall have a contractor’s label and a removable paper size ticket.

3.3.10 Contractor’s Label. Shall be cloth, cotton, permanent-coated, conforming to Type VI, Classes 1, 2, and 10, of Specification MIL-DTL-32075. The label shall finish not less than 2” wide by 3 1/2” long (the printing shall be along the 3 1/2” length) and show the following information:

ITEM DESCRIPTION_______________________________*_________________________

CONTRACT NUMBER_________*_______________CONTRACT DATE______*_______

SIZE___________________________________**__________________________________

CADET NAME______________________________________________________________

SSN________________________________SQUADRON_____________________________

SUPPLIER’S NAME _____________________________*___________________________

FABRIC CONTENT_____________________________*____________________________

CARE INSTRUCTIONS__________________________*____________________________

* Applicable data to be inserted by the contractor when labels are printed.

** Applicable data to be stamped or printed in by contractor using a permanent-type black ink.

The label shall be sewn on all four sides, not to cover the printing, 16” up from the hemline.

3.3.11 Removable Size/Bar Code Ticket. The removable paper size ticket shall be of a regular commercial paper construction. The letter and numbers shall not be less than 1/4” height. The code 39 bar code shall be 1/2 in height and shall reflect the stock number of the garment. The size ticket shall be tacked on the lower part of the left sleeve, above cuff, on the outside. The ticket shall show the size of the jacket, for example:

SM/REG MED/REG LG/REG XL/REG

3.4 Design. The design of the parka shall be as shown in Figure 1. The parka shall have two diagonal slash welts inside patch pockets. The hood shall be a double thickness of the basic material. The parka shall have two slide fasteners, one for the hood and one for the front closure. The end of the sleeves shall have cuffs. Sizes shall be as indicated in Table I.

3.5 Stitches, Seams, and Stitching. Stitch, seam and stitching types, as specified in Table II, shall conform to the requirements of ASTM D6193.

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3.5.1 Thread Break and Ends of all Seams. Ends of seams and stitching produced with Type 301 stitch, if not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be securely backstitched; thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be seamed by stitching back of break 1/2” to 1”.

3.6 Patterns. The contractor’s working patterns shall be identical with the patterns furnished by 34th TRW/SDCU at the time of the contract award. At the completion/termination of the contract, the contractor shall return the master pattern and approved changes, if any to 34th TRW/SDCU, 2348 Sijan Drive, Suite 2B1, USAF Academy CO, 80840-8210. The contractor must have the ability to grade patterns to the sizes submitted by the procuring activity.

3.7 Construction. The parka shall be constructed in accordance with the operations as shown in Table II.

The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed.

3.8 Workmanship. The quality of manufacture shall be controlled to guarantee conformity with the standard of workmanship established in this specification, or comparable construction. The finished parka shall be clean and free from defects.

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TABLE I

PARKA FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Size Back

Length (Inches)

1/2 Chest Sleeve Inseam Length

Small, X-short 31 22 1/2 15 1/2 Small, Short 32 22 1/2 16 1/2 Small, Regular 33 22 1/2 17 1/2 Small, Long 34 22 1/2 18 1/2 Small, X-long 35 22 1/2 19 1/2

Medium, X-short 31 1/2 24 1/2 15 1/2 Medium, Short 32 1/2 24 1/2 16 1/2 Medium, Regular 33 1/2 24 1/2 17 1/2 Medium, Long 34 1/2 24 1/2 18 1/2 Medium, X-long 35 1/2 24 1/2 19 1/2

Large, X-short 32 26 1/2 15 1/2 Large, Short 33 26 1/2 16 1/2 Large, Regular 34 26 1/2 17 1/2 Large, Long 35 26 1/2 18 1/2 Large, X-long 36 26 1/2 19 1/2

X-large, X-short 33 1/2 28 1/2 16 X-large, Short 34 1/2 28 1/2 17 X-large, Regular 35 1/2 28 1/2 18 X-large, Long 36 1/2 28 1/2 19 X-large, X-long 37 1/2 28 1/2 20

METHOD OF TAKING MEASUREMENTS SHOWN IN TABLE I:

a. Back length shall be measured from hood seam to bottom of parka in center back.

b. 1/2 chest shall be measured from outside edge to outside edge at base of armhole, with the slide fastener closed and the parka laid out smooth and flat.

c. Sleeve-inseam measurement shall be measured along the sleeve inseam from the armhole seam to the top of the knit cuff.

d. Tolerance shall be +/- ½” on the above requirements.

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TABLE II

MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

NO.

DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION

Seam and Stitch Type

Stitching Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread Top /Bottom

1. CUTTING OF THE PARKA

a. The fabric shall be laid on cutting table face-to-face with no tension.

b. All components shall be cut out of the same piece of material with the nap of the fabric running down.

c. Notches for the proper assembling of the garment shall be inserted.

d. The patterns shall be laid in the direction of the cutting lines on the patterns, which indicate the nap direction.

e. Drill marks may be used to indicate the location of the pockets.

f. The inside patch pockets may be cut from ends.

g. All damages and imperfections appearing in any of the components shall be replaced from the same piece of material before leaving the cutting table.

2. SHADE MARKING.

a. All component parts of the parka shall be shade marked to insure that the nap throughout the parka is running down.

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3. MAKE SLEEVES.

a. Bind sleeve underarm seams and top of sleeve and press open.

301 BSc-1-1 10-12 30/3 30/3

b. Join underarm seam 3/4”. 301 SSa-1-1 10-12 30/3 30/3

c. Overcast bottom edges of sleeve with knit cuff.

503 or

SSa-1 8-10 40/3 2/26

d. Sew on knit cuffs 1/2” gauge. The finished length of the cuffs shall be 4 inches.

301 LSq-2a 10-12 30/3 30/3

e. Raise stitch sleeve terminals above cuffs

3/8” gauge.

301 LSq-2b 6-8 30/3 30/3

4. MAKE HOOD.

a. Attach zipper onto the hood according to notches on pattern on right and left side of hood. The zipper tape shall expose 1/8” +/- 1/16” on finished hood. The zipper tape shall be attached without puckering at any point. Tape shall start 1/2” from front of the hood and finish to center of hood at back.

The left and right part of hood shall finish even at front when hood is closed. Raise stitch 3/8” gauge stitching. At the end of zipper, put a triangular stitch through and through top of hood.

301 SSa-1 10-12 30/3 30/3

b. Join inner and outer hood, leaving neckline open 1/2” gauge.

c. Trim and turn Hood.

d. Raise stitch hood 3/8” gauge 301 SSq-2 10-12 30/3 30/3

5. MAKE FACINGS.

a. Bind inner edge of facing. 301 or

BSc-1 10-12 30/3 30/3

b. Sew contractor’s label on left facing 16” up from bottom of parka.

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TABLE II - MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

6. MAKE DOUBLE WELT POCKETS.

a. Bind pockets 301or

b. Sew upper and lower welt to outside of parka 1/2” gauge. Edges of welt shall butt together evenly.

c. Cut between welt stitching notching into corners.

301 LSb-2 10-12 30/3 30/3

d. Turn lower welt under and raise stitch

1/2” gauge and 1/8” gauge from edge.

301 LSb-2 10-12 30/3 30/3

e. Turn upper welt under and sew 1/8” gauge. Stitching to go through patch pocket. Turn under cut corners and tack.

f. Stitch around patch pocket 3/16” gauge.

Pocket welts shall butt together evenly catching the ends of the butt welts securely front and back and catching the back part of welts in stitching of pocket patch.

g. After welts are abutted, they shall be top stitched through and through the pocket ends.

h. Stitch top welt through and through pocket.

i. Pocket opening shall finish 6 1/4” for small and medium, and 6 3/4” for large and X-large.

7. MAKE PARKA.

a. Bind underarm and shoulder seams of fronts.

301 or

b. Join fronts and back at underarm and shoulder. Fronts 3/4” gauge, backs 3/8” gauge.

c. Raise stitch underarm and shoulders, 3/8” gauge, stitching shall be on backs.

301 LSb-1 10-12 30/3 30/3

d. Front slide fastener. Attach the slide 301 SSa-1 10-12 30/3 30/3

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30 September 2008 fastener to the right and left fronts of the parka ¼” below the neckline. The slide fastener shall end 9” above bottom edge of finished parka, +/- ½”, on all sizes. The front edges covering the fastener shall not overlap, nor shall the fastener be exposed when closed. Slide fastener tape shall be caught in the stitching of the hood. The slide fastener tape shall be attached without puckering at any point. The finished bottom of the parka shall be even on the right and left fronts.

e. Sew facings to front 1/2” gauge. Trim bottom front corners and turn.

f. Sew outer hood to neckline of parka 1/2” gauge.

g. Sew facing and hood lining to neckline

1/2” gauge, hanger in seam center back.

h. Turn under hood lining at neckline and seam between ends of facing 1/8” gauge.

301 LSb-1 10-12 30/3 30/3

i. Bind bottom of parka. 301 or

j. Turn up bottom hem 1 1/4” and seam

1/8” gauge.

301 Efa1 10-12 30/3 30/3

k. Sew in sleeves, matching notches 3/4” gauge; armhole body 3/8” gauge.

301 LSq-2a 10-12 30/3 30/3

l. Raise armhole seam 3/8” gauge; stitching shall be on body.

301 LSq-2b 10-12 30/3 30/3

m. Raise stitch fronts of parka 3/8” gauge. 301 SSc-1 10-12 30/3 30/3

n. Blindstitch facings to parka body from top of facings to top of pockets. Stitching shall not be exposed onto fronts or be tight, causing puckering.

301 or

Blind Stitch

10-12 40/3 40/3

o. Tack bottom of facing at junction of pocket and facing securely. This is hand-felling silk.

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8. SEW ON USAFA PATCH. 301 SSa-1 10-12 40/3 40/3

a. Sew the USAFA patch in a straight line on upper left chest according to dimensions given in Figures 1 and 2.

9. EXAMINE PARKA.

a. Compare all shade marking tickets and direction of nap.

b. Examine all operations.

c. Examine parka for damages, spots, stains, and imperfections in fabric.

d. Trim all thread ends.

e. Inspect for nap going all one way

(down).

10. PRESS PARKA.

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4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS.

4.1 Contractor’s Responsibility. The supplier is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements as specified herein. Expect as otherwise specified, the supplier may utilize his own or any other inspection facilities and services acceptable to the Government. Inspection records of the examination and tests shall be kept complete and made available to the Government as specified in the contract or order.

The Government reserves the right to observe the manufacturer’s operations and perform any of the inspections set forth in the specification where such observations and inspections are deemed necessary to assure that supplies and services conform to prescribed requirements.

4.2 Inspection for Purposes other Than Acceptance.

4.2.1 Samples. The bid sample and first article (see 3.2) shall be inspected for compliance as to design, construction, workmanship, and in appearance in accordance with the requirements of this specification.

4.3 Inspection for Acceptance. Unless otherwise specified herein, inspection shall be in accordance with ANSI Z1.4, and it’s instructions.

4.3.1 In-Process Inspection. Inspection shall be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to determine whether operations or assemblies are performed as specified. The Government reserves the right to exclude from consideration for acceptance any material or service for which in-process inspection has indicated nonconformance.

4.3.2 Examination of End Item. Except for defects with an asterisk (*) in the classification column, all defects found during examination shall be classified in accordance with 4.3.2.1, 4.3.2.2 and 4.3.2.3. Defects with an asterisk in the classification column shall be classified as a Major defect when affecting appearance or serviceability seriously; as a Minor defect when affecting appearance or serviceability but not seriously.

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4.3.2.1 General Defects. General defects shall be classified as follows: CLASSIFICATION

MAJOR MINOR

A B

A. Material Defects and Workmanship Damages. When the weakening or non-weakening conditions of the material defects are inconspicuous and have a negligible effect on serviceability, they shall not be classified as defects.

Workmanship damages that are weakening or non-weakening but are inconspicuous and have a negligible effect on serviceability shall be classified as Minor B defects. Material defects and workmanship damages shall be classified as follows only when the condition is one that definitely weakens the fabric or when it is so conspicuously located as to be clearly noticeable:

1. Any weakening defect such as a smash, multiple float, loose slub, etc.

that may develop into a hole.

2. Hole - scissors or knife cut, tear, mend, or burn. *

3. Shade bar or unsightly slub.

a) On outside. *

b) On inside (except sleeve linings) X

4. One or more exposed drill holes. *

5. Nap not going proper direction. *

B. Cleanliness.

1. Any spot or stain on outside. *

2. Thread ends not trimmed. X

C. Component and Assembly.

1. Any component defective. *

2. Any component part omitted. *

3. Any required operation omitted or improperly performed, affecting appearance or serviceability.

D. Cutting. Any component part not cut in accordance with direction lines on patterns or specified requirements.

E. Seams and Stitching.

1. Accuracy of seaming.

a. Twisted, puckered, or pleated seam. *

b. Part of the garment caught in any unrelated operation or stitching, *

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4.3.2.1 General Defects. General defects shall be classified as follows: CLASSIFICATION

MAJOR MINOR

A B

c. Thread(s) used on the outside not the same shade or not satisfactorily matching the shade of the garment.

X

d. Thread breaks or end(s) of stitching (when not caught in other seams or stitching) not securely backstitched.

e. Ends of a continuous line of stitching not overlapped or overlapped less than 1/2 inch.

f. Looper thread of 401 stitch type exposed on outside of jacket. X

2. Gauge of stitching (edge, top or raised, stitching):

a. Irregular, i.e., unevenly gauged or corresponding stitching not uniformly gauged, affecting appearance.

b. Not within range of gauge specified or varied more than 1/16 inch when no range is specified.

3. Open Seam. (A break in a line of stitching or continuous skipped or runoff stitches, except on edge, top, or raised stitching, shall constitute an open seam.)

a. Over 1/8” to and including 1/4”. X

b. Over 1/4” X

4. Stitches skipped or broken (on edge, top, or raised stitching when seam is seamed, turned, and stitched).

a. Over 1/4” to and including 1/2”. X

b. Over 1/2” to and including 1”. X

c. Over 1”. X E. Seams and Stitching. (Cont.)

5. Raw Edges. (A raw edge shall be classified as such when it occurs along an edge required to be turned under but the edge is securely caught in the stitching. If the edge is not securely caught in the stitching, it shall be scored as an open seam).

a. Outside.

1) Over 1/8” to and including 1/4”.. X

2) Over 1/4” to and including 1/2”. X

3) Over 1/2”. X

b. Inside.

1) Over 1/2” to and including 1”.

2) Over 1”.

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4.3.2.1 General Defects. General defects shall be classified as follows: CLASSIFICATION

6. Runoffs.

a. On joining seams, when resulting in open seam, score as open seam.

b. On edge, top, or raised stitching when not resulting in open seam (outside only).

1) Over 1/2” to and including 1”. X

2) Over 1”. X

F. Binding Inside.

1. Binding not caught on fabric 1/8” but not more than 1/4”. X

2. Binding not caught on fabric 1/4” but not more than 3/4”.. X

3. Binding finished less than 3/4” but not less than 5/8”. X

4. Binding finished less than 1/2”. X

5. Binding omitted on garments. X

G. Shaded Parts.

1. Outside parts shaded (visible when garment is worn). *

2. Binding not proper shade. X

3. Nap wrong direction. X

H. Slide Fasteners - Front and Hood.

1. Not type or size specified. X

2. Garment part stitched too close to metal chain, not permitting slider to pass.

3. Top end of fastener tapes not caught under stitching of hood. X

4. Not proper shade of tape. X

5. Not proper shade of metal. X

6. Any part of assembly omitted, bent, broken, or otherwise defective, affecting function.

7. Tape set on too loose or too tight, causing bulge, twist, puckering, or fullness on closed front.

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4.3.2.1 General Defects. General defects shall be classified as follows: CLASSIFICATION

8. Top ends of tape not caught in at top of facing and hood seam, or not turned under when stitched.

9. Bottom end of tape not caught in joining seam. X

10. Ends of slide fastener chain uneven at bottom by more than 1/4” but not more than 1/2”.

11. Ends of slide fastener uneven at bottom by more than 1/8” but no more than 1/4”.

12. Hood, Front and Back.

a. End of slide fastener at front of hood uneven when closed.

(1) 1/8” or less. X

(2) By more than 1/8” but not more than 1/4”. X

(3) More than 1/4”. X

13. Top end of zipper on hood not triangularly stitched. X

I. Blindstitch Facing.

1. Exposed stitching on fronts affecting appearance. X

2. Stitching causing impressions. X

3. Twisted causing puckers affecting appearance. X

J. Pocket Opening.

1. Small and medium

a. More than 6 1/2” but not more than 6 3/4”. X

b. More than 6 3/4”. X

c. Less than 6 1/4” but not less than 6”. X

d. Less than 6” X

2. Large and extra large.

a. More than 7” but not more than 7 1/4”. X

b. More than 7 1/4”. X

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4.3.2.1 General Defects. General defects shall be classified as follows: CLASSIFICATION

MAJOR MINOR

A B

c. Less than 6 3/4” but not less than 6 1/2”. X

d. Less than 6 1/2” X

DETAILED DEFECTS

4.3.2.2 Detailed Defects. Detailed defects shall be classified as follows:

A. Fronts and Front Closure.

1. Length of closed fronts uneven at neck 1/4” or more or at bottom 1/2” or more.

2. Slide fastener

a) Tape exposed less than 1/16” or more than 1/8” beyond edge of metal chain.

b) Tapes set on too loosely or too tightly causing excessive bulging on opening, affecting appearance.

c) The zipper not ending 9” from the bottom edge of finished parka, +/- ½”.

d) Front edges overlapping. X

B. Bottom Hem.

1. Badly twisted, affecting appearance. *

2. Hem not even, affecting appearance. *

C. Welts.

1. Not in uniform appearance. *

2. Not in uniform width.

a. More than 1/2” wide but not more than 5/8”. X

b. More than 5/8”. X

c. Less than 1/2”. X

3. Not butting evenly. X

4. Nap not going down on both welts, causing shading appearance. X

D. Pockets.

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4.3.2.1 General Defects. General defects shall be classified as follows: CLASSIFICATION

1. Left and right not in corresponding horizontal position, affecting appearance.

2. Out of alignment.

a) By 1/2” or more but not more than 1”. X

b) More than 1”. *

3. Notch raw edge exposed at corners or corners puckered or pleated affecting appearance

4. Ends of abutted welts not caught in stitching when attaching patch pocket to parka. (See Figure 4)

a) Front abut welts. X

b) Back abut welts. *

5. Welts not stitched through and through at pocket ends. *

6. Top welt not stitched through and through to pocket. ` *

E. Sleeves.

1. Sagging, twisted, bulging, or short caused by shortness, tightness, or not positioning correctly in armhole.

2. Sleeve overlapping body parts at joining seam. X

3. Raised stitching around the armhole omitted. *

4. Sleeve fullness misplaced or concentrated in one area at armhole affecting appearance.

F. Knitted Cuff.

1. Knitted cuffs twisted in the attachment to sleeve bottom, affecting appearance.

2. Irregular in length.

F. Knitted Cuff. (Cont.)

a. Length not finishing 4” +/- 1/4”. X

b. Variation in length in one sleeve. X

3. Raised stitching on seam around sleeve between terminals omitted X

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4.3.2.1 General Defects. General defects shall be classified as follows: CLASSIFICATION

4. Overcast stitch edge of cuff and terminals of sleeve omitted. X

G. Back Part and Side Seams.

1. Fronts overlapping backs at side seams.

H. Lettering - USAFA.

1. Not attached in a straight line across front left chest. X

2. Not sewn on breast in accordance with Figure 1 and Figure 2. X

I. Inside of Jacket.

1. Hanger.

a. End(s) not securely stitched. X

b. Finishing less than 3” or more than 4” long X

c. Less than 3/8” wide. X

d. Off center with center of back by 1” or more. X

e. Stitched or bartacked through outer shall. X

2. Labels.

a. Identification label.

1) Missing or size marking omitted, incorrect, or illegible. X

2) Information (other than size ) missing, incorrect, or illegible. X

3) Not stitched on four sides to pocket lining. X

b. Wool-content label when information not incorporated in the identification label missing, incorrect, or illegible.

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4.3.2.3 Finished-Measurement Defects. Any finished measurement and tolerance deviating from the nominal measurements and tolerance specified in Table I shall be classified as a finished measurement defect. Sleeve lengths uneven by 1/2” or more shall be classified as a finished-measurement defect.

4.3.2.4 Inspection Levels and Acceptable-Quality Level. Inspection levels and acceptable-quality levels (AQL’s) expressed in defects per hundred units (DHU) shall be in accordance with ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 as follows:

For Defects Listed in 4.2.2.1 and 4.2.2.2. (General and Detailed Defects)

AQL INSPECTION LEVEL

Major 2.5 II Major and Minor A 15.0 II Major, Minor A, & Minor B (Combined)

40.0 II

For Defects Listed in

4.2.2.3 (Measurements)

One class 4.0 S-3

*S-3 of ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 shall be used for Table I.

4.3.2.5 Final Inspection. The passing as satisfactory of the bid sample or first article, or any detail or construction or material, shall not be construed as relieving the contractor of the responsibility for faulty workmanship or material which may be discovered at any time prior to final acceptance. The point of final inspection and acceptance of the finished articles shall be as specified by the procuring agency.

5. PREPARATION FOR DELIVERY

5.1 Packaging Each jacket slide fastener front shall be closed. The sleeves shall be folded to front.

5.2 Packing. Twenty parkas of one size only shall be packed flat in a box conforming to Type I or II, Class I, Style RCS of ASTM D1974. The minimum bursting strength of the fiberboard shall be 275 PSI. All flaps of the box shall be securely sealed with an adhesive commercially used for the specific product being packed by applying the adhesive throughout the entire area of contact between the flap and sealing the top flaps with adhesive.

5.3 Marking. Shipping containers shall be marked in accordance with MIL-STD-129. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), shipping containers shall be marked with the name of the commodity, type, and quantity contained therein, as defined in the contract or order under which the shipment is made, the name of the contractor, and the contract or order number. Shipping containers packed with parkas of the assorted sizes shall be marked to show the quantity of each size packed therein.

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5.4 Shipping Container. The shipping container’s dimensions shall be 23” L X 15” W X 15” H Container markings shall be on three sides, either printed or stenciled as shown in Figure 3. No more than 10 parkas shall be packed in each container.

6. NOTES.

6.1 Intended Use. The parkas covered by this specification are intended for wear by the male cadets of the United States Air Force Academy.

6.2 Ordering Data. Procurement documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number, and date of this specification.

b. Parka body sizes (see 1.2 and Table No. 1).

c. Availability of sample (see 3.1).

d. Requirements for bid sample (see 3.2).

e. Requirements for first article (see 3.2.2).

f. Requirements for pilot lot.

g. Point of final inspection and acceptance (see 4.3.2.5).

h. Packaging, packing, and marking requirements, if different from those specified herein (see 5.1, 5.2, and 5.3).

6.3 Design Data. The general design of the parka is shown in Figure 1 and is for information only.

6.4 Patent Notice. When government drawings, specifications, or other data are used for any purpose other than in connection with a definitely related government procurement operation, the United States Government thereby incurs no responsibility nor any obligation whatsoever; and the fact that the Government may have formulated, furnished, or in any way supplied the said drawings, specifications, or other data is not to be regarded by implication or otherwise as in any manner licensing the holder or any other person or corporation or conveying any rights or permission to manufacture, use, or sell any patented invention that may in any way be related thereto.

CUSTODIAN:

USAF Academy CO 80840-8210

PREPARING ACTIVITY:

Cadet Uniforms (34th TRW/SDCU)

REVIEWING ACTIVITY:

Director, Cadet Logistics (34th TRW/SD)

Questions on this specification : rosario.kinderknecht@usafa.af.mil

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Note:

1. Patch and lettering shown are approximately actual size.

2. The USAFA patch shall be placed not less than 2” and not more than 2 ¼” in from the front edge of the parka (see Figure1).

3. The top edge of the patch shall be placed 8” +¼”, down from the intersection point of the shoulder seam and hood seam (see Figure 1).

Figure 2

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SHIPPING CONTAINER

Figure 3

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Figure 4

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STANDARDIZATION DOCUMENT IMPROVEMENT PROPOSAL

INSTRUCTIONS: The purpose of this form is to solicit beneficial comments which shall help achieve procurement of suitable products at reasonable cost and minimum delay, or shall otherwise enhance use of the document. USAFA contractors, government activities, or manufacturers/vendors who are prospective suppliers of the product are invited to submit comments to the government. Comments submitted on this form do not constitute or imply authorization to waive any portion of the referenced document(s) or to amend contractual requirements. Attach any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document.

If there are additional papers, attach to form and place both in an envelope addressed to Cadet Uniform, 34TH TRW/SDCU, 2348 Sijan Dr., Suite 2B1, USAF Academy, CO 80840-8210.

DOCUMENT IDENTIFIER AND TITLE

NAME OF ORGANIATION AND ADDRESS CONTRACT NUMBER

MATERIAL PROCURED UNDER A

Direct Government Contract

Subcontract

1. HAS ANY PART OF THE DOCUMENT CREATED PROBLEMS OR REQUIRED

INTERPRETATION IN PROCUREMENT?

A. Give paragraph number and wording.

B. Recommendations for correcting deficiencies.

2. COMMENTS ON ANY DOCUMENT REQUIREMENT CONSIDERED TO RIGID

3. IS THE DOCUMENT RESTRICTIVE?

4. REMARKS

SUBMITTED BY(Printed or typed name and address - Optional)

TELEPHONE NO.

DATE