Attachment_1_-_SPEC_370-150128-AJKT-COMBINED_GENDER.pdf

USAFA CU 370 FA7000-17-R-0010

28 January 2015 Attachment 1

UNITED STATES AIR FORCE ACADEMY

SPECIFICATION USAFA CU 370

JACKET, ATHLETIC, CADET, MEN’S & WOMEN’S

28 JANUARY 2015

JACKET, ATHLETIC, CADET, MEN’S & WOMEN’S

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for the athletic jackets worn by the cadets at the United States Air Force Academy.

1.2 Finished Measurements. The finished measurements of the jackets shall conform to those dimensions as specified in Table II.

1.3 Sizes. These jackets shall be furnished in the following sizes as specified (See 6.2):

MEN’S SCHEDULE OF SIZES

SHORT sizes 30 through 46 REGULAR sizes 30 through 56 LONG sizes 36 through 64 EXTRA LONG sizes 36 through 64 EXTRA, EXTRA LONG sizes 42 through 64 EXTRA, EXTRA, EXTRA LONG sizes 42 through 64

WOMEN’S SCHEDULE OF SIZES

SHORT sizes 2 through 18 REGULAR sizes 6 through 22 LONG sizes 6 through 24 EXTRA LONG sizes 8 through 24

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 The following documents of the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein:

SPECIFICATIONS

FEDERAL

A-A-55634 Zipper (Fasteners, Slide Interlocking) A-A-52094 Thread, Cotton (A-A-50198) A-A-50129 Cloth, Flannel, Lightweight A-A-50186 Cloth, Buckram, woven and nonwoven A-A-52074 Cloth, Satin, Lining Material A-A-50155 Cloth, Muslin, Cotton

PP-B-636 Box, Fiberboard

MILITARY

MIL-P-15064G(1) Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-head MIL-B-371F Braid, Textile, Tubular MIL-DTL-21115L Cloth, Tropical: Wool, Polyester/Wool MIL-C-3735E Cuff, Knit, Wrist and Ankle, and Cloth, Knitted MIL-DTL-32075 Label, for Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General Use)

STANDARDS

Commercial

ASTM-D6193 Stitches, Seams, and Stitching

ANSI/ASQC Z1.4

ANSI Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

ASTM-D1974 Boxes Shipping Fiberboards

Federal

FED STD 191A(6) Textile Test Methods

Military

MIL-STD-129 Marking for Shipment and Storage

Copies of specifications, standards, drawings, and publications required by contractors in connection with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the Contracting Officer.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Presolicitation and Solicitation Samples. Samples are furnished only for rough order of magnitude information for the Contractor. Variations from this specification may appear in the sample in which case this specification shall govern. Except for such variations the design, appearance, quality, construction and workmanship in all respects not covered by this specification shall be equal to the sample (see 6.2).

3.2 Sample Approval.

3.2.1 Bid Samples. When required (see 6.2), the Contractor shall submit to the Contracting Officer, for evaluation, one finished jacket size 40 Regular and 12 Regular, conforming to the requirements of this specification.

3.2.2 First Article. When specified (see 6.2), and before each production is commenced, the Contractor shall submit to the Contracting Officer, for approval, the following item:

3.2.2.1 One finished jacket, Size 40 Regular, conforming to the requirements of this specification.

Note: This requirement may be waived if a prior contractor receives the contract for this item.

3.2.3 When contractor-furnished material is provided, the contractor is required to furnish supplier certification that the material meets this specification, or, test the material and furnish test reports to the Cadet Uniforms 10LRS/LGRCU, 2348 Sijan Dr., Bldg. 2348, Suite 2B1, USAF Academy, CO., 80840-8210 through the Contracting Officer.

3.2.4 Fabrication and Assembly of Samples. Samples shall be fabricated by the contractor and shall meet all requirements outlined in this specification. The samples shall use parts and materials and be assembled in a manner identical to that to be used in production.

3.2.5 Statement. Samples shall be accompanied by a statement comprising the following

3.2.5.1 Identity of the plant where the samples were fabricated and date when their assembly was completed.

3.2.5.2 Certification that the samples have been completely fabricated using parts, materials, processes and techniques in accordance with this specification and are identical to those to be used by the contractor in production.

3.3 Materials.

3.3.1 Basic Fabric. Shall conform to Type III, Class 3, of Mil-C-21115, and shall be USAF Academy blue, Shade No. 540, 10 oz. polyester/wool tropical cloth.

3.3.2 Cloth, Satin, Acetate, Lining. The lining shall be satin. The cloth shall be finished so as to provide a lustrous finished satin smooth face and a napped back. It shall have good colorfastness, a weight of 8 oz/sq2 + .5 oz/yd2 and a maximum shrinkage percentage of 4% in the warp and 2% in the filling. The Type I fabric described in Commercial Item Description A-A-52074 is known to meet these specifications. The color of the lining shall be black.

3.3.3 Shoulder Pads. The shoulder pads shall be made using the following materials and construction or use commercially purchased shoulder parts constructed according to MIL-F-15064. Type I, class 2 of MIL-F-15064 is known to comply with this requirement.

3.3.3.1 Batting. The batting shall be good quality cotton, resilient, thoroughly cleaned, fumigated and free of pills, neps, trash or other imperfections. The bating shall be shingled so as to produce a proper graduation of thickness in the finished shoulder pad.

3.3.3.2 Interlining. The interlining shall be buckram, bleached or unbleached, 3.8 ounces per square yard, conforming to Type II of Specification A-A-50186. The buckram shall be cut on the bias, having an outside circumference of 19” before the pad is cut, and shall be placed 3/8” down from the top of pad. The straight edge of buckram shall be 6” long (minimum).

3.3.3.3 Construction. The finished pads shall be curved; the outside circumference of the single pad, before cutting, shall measure 30”. Baste around curved edge of single pad with one row of 301-type stitch, 3-4 stitches per inch and 1/2” from outer edge.

Stitch and single pad with two (2) rows of zigzag stitching all around, spaced approximately 3/4” apart, 2-4 stitches per inch. The zigzag stitching shall be controlled to form a concave shape effect in the finished pad with the rows of stitching passing through all plies of materials. The finished pad shall weigh 1.0 ounce (minimum). Cut the single pad into two (2) equal pads. The individual pads shall measure 9 1/2” (+ 1/4”) along the straight edge and 14 3/4” (+ 1/4”) along the curved edge. The thickness of the pads shall measure 1/4” at center of straight edge and shall taper to a thickness of 1/8” at the curved edge. Notch top ply of print cloth along straight edge, approximately 4” back from front.

3.3.4 Knitted Cuffs, Waistbands, and Collar. The knitted wrist cuffs, waistband, and collar shall conform to Type III of MIL-C-3735 and shall be black in color. The knit cuffs shall measure 4 1/2” in length unfinished, and 4” to 4 ¼” in length after being sewn into finished sleeve. The knitted cloth for the collar shall measure 2 1/4” (+1/4”) in width at center back on the finished jacket. The waistband shall measure 3 1/4 (+1/4”) in width on the finished jacket. Cut the bottom knit band in lengths as follows:

Sizes 34 through 36 - 28 inches Sizes 50 through 54 - 31 inches Sizes 38 through 40 - 27 inches Sizes 54 through 59 - 32 inches Sizes 42 through 44 - 29 inches Sizes 60 through 64 - 33 inches Sizes 46 through 48 - 30 inches

3.4 Labels. Each jacket shall have a contractor’s label and a removable paper size ticket.

3.4.1 Contractor’s Label. Shall be cloth, cotton, permanent coated, conforming to Type I, Class I of Specification MIL-DTL-32075. The label shall finish not less than 2” wide by 3 1/2” long (the printing shall be along the 3 1/2” length) and show the following information:

3.4.1 Contractor’s Label. Shall be cloth, cotton, permanent coated and of good commercial quality for intended use. The label shall be able to accept pen as a permanent mark and be able to withstand dry cleaning. The label shall finish not less than 2” wide by 3 1/2” long (the printing shall be along the 3 1/2” length) and show the following information:

Item Description * Contract Number * Contract Date * Size ** Cadet Name SSN Squadron Supplier’s Name * Fabric Content * Care Instruction *

* Applicable data to be inserted by the contractor when labels are printed.

** Applicable data to be stamped in by contractor using permanent-type black ink after labels are printed.

3.4.2 Removable Size/Bar Code Ticket. The removable paper size ticket shall be approximately 2” X 3” and be of regular commercial paper construction. The letters and numbers for the size ticket shall be 1/4” high. Size 38 regular shall be expressed as 38R, etc. The code 39 bar code shall be 1/2” in height and shall reflect the stock number of the garment. For all coats, the label shall be tacked to the outside, lower part of the left sleeve. The ticket shall show the size of the jacket, for example:

38 38 38 38 Short Regular Long Extra Long

3.5 Slide Fastener. The teeth, tape, slider, stops, and pull of the slide fastener shall approximate the color of AF blue shade 1651 basic material. The slide fastener for the jacket front closure shall be a right hand separating, single-pull slide fastener and shall have synthetic individual-element teeth, size 7, with a 68-pound (average) crosswise breaking strength. The slide fastener shall have a single locking slider.

3.6 Thread. The thread for temporary basting shall be a good commercial grade of cotton thread. The thread for seaming and stitching shall conform to type IA3, ticket

No. 50 or No 60, 3 ply of A-A-52094. The thread shall be black and shall show good colorfastness to light, perspiration and dry cleaning. Alternately A-A-50199A, Type II, 50/2 is acceptable.

3.7 Hanger Braid. Braid for the jacket hanger shall be polyester or cotton, braided, flat, black, 3/16” to 1/4” WIDE, otherwise conforming to Type III of Specification MIL-B-371.

The hanger shall be 1 ¾” + ½”.

3.8 Interfacing. A medium-weight Pellon non-woven interfacing, cut 1” wide, is used along the center-front edge.

3.9 Design. The design of the athletic jacket shall be as shown in Figure 1 of this specification, with all components in accordance with USAF Academy master patterns.

It will be single breasted with set-in sleeves. The jacket shall have knit cuffs, collar and waistband. The front shall be closed by a slide fastener. The jacket will lined with a black satin lining with cotton-finish back.

NOTE: The athletic jacket is a dress jacket of high quality and is used as a distinctive uniform garment by USAFA cadets. (It is not an all-purpose utility jacket.)

3.10 Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished by the Government. The patterns provide for a 3/4” seam allowance for the fronts and a 3/8” seam allowance for all other seams unless otherwise specified here-in. The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way, and are to be used as a guide for cutting the contractor’s working patterns.

The working patterns shall be identical to the standard pattern. The contractor shall have the ability to develop and grade working patterns to all sizes required by the procuring activity.

3.11 Construction.

3.11.1 Stitches, Seams, and Stitching. All stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to ASTM-D6193. Whenever two or more methods of seam or stitch types are specified for the same operation, any one of them may be used.

3.11.2 Stitches per Inch. The number of stitches per inch specified in Table I shall be interpreted to be the minimum and the maximum number of stitches per inch permitted.

3.11.3 Thread Breaks and Ends of Seams. The ends of all seams and stitching produced with stitch type 301, when not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be backstitched not less than 1/4 inch. Thread breaks (all thread types) shall be secured by stitching back of break 1/2 to 1 inch.

3.12 Manufacturing Operation Requirements. The jacket shall be made in accordance with operation requirements specified in Table I. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations listed unless otherwise specified. An additional basting or holding stitching used to facilitate manufacture is permissible provided that the threads are removed or do not show on the finished jacket.

3.12.1 Shade and Size Marking. The component parts of the jacket and liner shall be marked, ticketed, or bundled to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the jacket.

Any method may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.

b. Sew-on shade tickets.

c. Adhesive type tickets whose adhesive causes discoloration or adheres to the material upon removal of the tickets.

NOTE: The use of any ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp, or pencil is allowed, provided the numbering does not show on the outside of the jacket.

3.12.2 Pressing. Unless specified, all pressing specified in Table I shall be accomplished by heated pressing iron or machine.

3.13 Workmanship. The finished jacket shall conform to the quality of product established by this document and the occurrence of defects shall not exceed the acceptable quality levels. Table I describes specifications and operational guidelines.

TABLE I - MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

NO. DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION

Seam and

Stitch Type

Stitching Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread Top

Bottom

1. CUTTING OF MATERIALS

a. The material shall be spread face to face, that is to say, the face of one ply of material shall be over and against the next ply below.

b. The material shall be carefully laid up in uniform widths and length and care shall be taken in spreading the material so that the plies are not stretched of full and so that one side of the lay is even. Each component part in the top ply of main lay shall be marked with the size of the garment.

c. The jackets shall be cut in strict

NO. DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION

Seam and

Stitch Type

Stitching Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread Top

Bottom accordance with patterns furnished which show size, shape, directional lines for cutting and also notches for placement of sleeve and proper assembling of all parts.

d. All component parts of the jacket shall be cut out of one piece of material.

2. CUT LINING

a. The cloth lining for the body of the jacket and sleeves shall be cut in the direction of the warp and in strict accordance with the patterns furnished.

Each section of the pattern may be placed with the directional line POINTING in opposite warpwise directions.

b. Each component part in the top ply of the main lay shall be marked with the size of the garment.

3. REPLACEMENT OF DAMAGED

PARTS

a. Replace at time of cutting any parts containing shade bars, holes or weakening defects such as smashes, multiple floats, slubs, snags or pulls.

b. Replace any parts damaged during manufacturing process by needle chews, holes, scissors or knife cuts, tears holes mends or burns.

4. SHADE MARKING

a. Mark or ticket all parts to insure a uniform shade throughout the jacket and the proper assembling of parts. If shade marking is used, the marking

NO. DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION

Seam and

Stitch Type

Stitching Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread Top

Bottom shall not show through or be visible on the outside of the jacket (see 3.12.1).

b. The numbering shall at all times start from the same position for all parts; for example, if the ply No. 1 is used for the top ply, the top and the next ply below facing the top ply must be No. 1 for all parts.

5. MAKE INNER SHELL (Lining)

a. Sew darts 301 SSa-1 10-14

b. Join shoulder seam 3/8” gauge. 301 SSa-1 10-14

c. Press shoulder seam open and flat.

d. Set in sleeves 3/8” gauge. 301 SSa-1 10-14

de. Join underarm sleeve seam and side seams 3/8” gauge.

301 SSa-1 10-14

f. Press underarm seams, side and armhole seam open and flat.

6. CONTRACTORS LABEL

a. Sew contractor’s label to inside lining (as worn) on right, 2” from front edge and 8” from bottom.

7. MAKE OUTER SHELL (Basic Fabric)

a. Join shoulder seam 3/8” gauge. 301 SSa-1 10-14

b. Press shoulder seams open and flat..

c. Set in sleeves 3/8” gauge. 301 SSa-1 10-14

d. Join underarm sleeve seams and side seams 3/8” gauge.

e. Press underarm seams, side

NO. DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION

Seam and

Stitch Type

Stitching Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread Top

Bottom seams, and armhole seams open and flat.

f. Sew in knit cuffs 1/4” gauge. The knit cuffs 1/4” gauge shall measure 3 1/2” (+ 1/4”) in length on the finished sleeve.

g. Sew in knit collar 1/4” gauge catching hanger braid stitching. The knit collar shall be cut 2 1/2” less than length of neck opening and be worked evenly into neck opening without puckers or gathers. The knit collar shall measure 2 1/4” (+ 1/4”) at center back in the finished jacket.

h. Sew in knit waistband 1/4” gauge.

The knit waistband shall be cut in length to measurements given per

3.3.4 and worked evenly into the waistband opening without puckers or gathers.

301 SSa-1 8-10

Note: Finished waistband shall measure 3 1/4” (+ 1/4”) wide.

i. A 1-inch strip of medium weight

Pellon non-woven interfacing is inserted along the front edge of the basic fabric and held in place with the slide-fastener stitching. Sew in slide fastener 1/4” gauge from back edge of slide fastener tape. Slide fastener chain is covered by basic fabric (outershell). Slide fastener shall extend from 1/4” (+1/2”) at bottom of jacket to within 1/4” of neck opening.

j. Sew straight edge of shoulder pad to edge of armhole seam allowance on top of armhole and in proper position

k. Tack the rounded edge of shoulder Hand 6-8

NO. DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION

Seam and

Stitch Type

Stitching Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread Top

Bottom pad securely to shoulder seam allowance without causing puckers and gathers or stitches showing on outside of jacket.

or machine

8. JOIN OUTER SHELL AND INNER

SHELL

(Alternatively sleeve-turning-hole construction may be substituted for the following construction operations)

a. Baste front edges prior to joining with front edges abutted on outside and the lining positioned 1/8” away from back edges of scoop on the inside.

Hand or

6-8

b. Join outer shell to inner shell all around except along the right front with all raw edges turned in. The edges of the fronts (basic fabric) shall meet when the slide fastener is closed and the edges of the lining shall finish 1/8” from back edge of scoops on the inside.

NOTE: The front edge shall not overlap when front is closed.

c. Gauge of raised stitching or edge stitching shall be 3/8” for out-side of fronts and across bottoms to knit waistband and 3/16” around neck opening. Hanger braid shall be caught in neck stitching. Knit collar shall be caught in the stitching around the neck opening.

d. Join bottoms of sleeve linings to outer shell 3/8” to 1/2” gauge, catching cuffs in the stitching.

e. Trim corners and turn jacket right side out.

f. Baste edge and join right front shell to lining 3/8” gauge closing jacket.

301 SSa-1 12-14

NO. DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION

Seam and

Stitch Type

Stitching Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread Top

Bottom

9. FINISH PRESS JACKETS

a. Press the entire jacket smooth and flat.

b. Press smooth and flat the edges being careful that the slide fastener is the is not damaged in the edge-pressing operation.

c. Remove any gloss, wrinkles, creases and impressions on the entire jacket.

10. ATTACH SIZE TICKET

Attach size ticket to outside of left sleeve above cuff. (see 3.4.2) Hand or

11. EXAMINE JACKETS

a. Measure jackets for conformance with finished dimensions (Table II)

b. Trim all ends of stitching and remove any remaining threads from jackets.

c. Close slide fastener

d. Examine all operations on jackets

e. Examine jackets for any damages of imperfections in fabric and lining.

f. Check all seams for skips, breaks, puckering, and pressing.

g. Check that all seams are properly pressed open.

h. Check that front edges meet and that lining is 1/8” away from back edge of scoops on inside and outside.

3.14 Finished Measurements. The finished measurements of the jackets shall conform to the measurements as specified herein and in Table II.

TABLE II - FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

(ALL DIMENSIONS ARE IN INCHES)

DIMENSIONS FOR MEN’S “REGULAR” LENGTH JACKETS

SIZES

(1)

1/2 CHEST

(2)

1/2 WAIST

(4)

SLEEVE

LENGTH

(5)

BACK

LENGTH

30 18 16 21 23-3/4 32 19 17 22 24-0 34 20 18 22 24-1/4 36 21 19 22 24-1/2 38 22 20 23 24-3/4 40 23 21 23 25-0 42 24 22 23 25-1/4 44 25 23 23 25-1/2 46 26 24 24 25-3/4 48 27 25 24 26-0 50 28 26 24 26-1/4 52 29 27 24 26-1/2 54 30 28 26 27 3/4 56 31 29 26 28 58 32 29 27 28 1/4 60 33 30 27 28 1/2 62 34 30 27 28 3/4 64 35 31 27 29

TABLE II - FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

(ALL DIMENSIONS ARE IN INCHES)

DIMENSIONS FOR WOMEN’S “REGULAR” LENGTH JACKETS

SIZES

(1)

1/2 CHEST

(2)

1/2 WAIST

(4)

SLEEVE

LENGTH

(5)

BACK

LENGTH

2 16 ½ 14 ½ 20 20 3/4 3 16 ¾ 14 ¾ 20 ½ 20 7/8 4 17 15 20 ½ 21 5 17 ¼ 15 ¼ 20 ½ 21 1/8 6 17 ½ 15 ½ 21 21 1/4 7 18 16 21 21 3/8 8 18 ½ 16 ½ 21 21 1/2

9 19 17 21 ½ 21 5/8 10 19 ½ 17 ½ 21 ½ 21 3/4 11 20 18 21 ½ 21 7/8 12 20 ½ 18 ½ 22 22 13 21 19 22 22 1/8 14 21 ½ 19 ½ 22 22 1/4 15 22 20 22 ½ 22 3/8 16 22 ½ 20 ½ 22 ½ 22 1/2 17 22 ¾ 20 ¾ 22 ½ 22 5/8 18 23 21 23 22 3/4 19 23 ¼ 21 ¼ 23 22 7/8 20 23 ½ 21 ½ 23 ½ 23 21 23 ¾ 21 ¾ 23 ½ 23 1/8 22 24 22 24 23 1/4 24 24 ½ 22 ½ 24 23 ½

1. Chest measurement shall be taken with slide fastener closed from folded edge to folded edge at base of armholes. (Tolerance + 1/2”)

2. Waist measurement shall be taken from folded edge to folded edge at top of knit waistband with the waistband extended, i.e., stretched out flat and the slide fastener closed. (Tolerance + 1/2”)

3. Sleeve length measurement shall be taken from the shoulder seam to the top edge of knit cuff. (Tolerance + 1/2”)

4. Back length measurement shall be taken from the base of the knit collar to the top edge of the knit waistband. (Tolerance + 1/4”)

6. Width of wristlets measurement shall be taken from top of seam to bottom edge of wristlets, finished 3 1/2”. (Tolerance + 1/4”)

7. Width of collar measurements shall be taken at center back from joining seam to top edge of collar, finished collar 2 1/4”. (Tolerance + 1/4”)

8. Width of waistband measurement shall be taken at joining seam to bottom edge of waistband, finished 3 1/4”. (Tolerance + 1/4”).

TABLE II - FINISHED MEASUREMENTS - (cont.)

DIMENSIONS FOR SHORT, LONG, EXTRA LONG AND EXTRA, EXTRA LONG JACKETS +

Size Modifier

a. Short Sleeve length - 1” shorter than regulars Back length - 1” shorter than regulars

b. Long Sleeve length - 2” longer than regulars Back length - 1” longer than regulars

c. X Long Sleeve length - 4” longer than regulars Back length - 2” longer than regulars

d. XX Long Sleeve length - 6” longer than regulars Back length - 3” longer than regulars

e. XXX Long Sleeve length - 8” longer than regulars Back length - 4” longer than regulars

4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4.1 Responsibility for Inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the supplier is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements as specified herein. Except as otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the contractor may use his own or any other facilities suitable for the performance of the inspection requirements specified herein, unless disapproved by the government. The Government reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in the specifications where such inspections are deemed necessary to ensure supplies and services conform to prescribed requirements.

4.2 First Article Inspection. When first article is required (see 6-2), it shall be examined for defects. The presence of any defect shall be cause for rejection of the first article.

4.3 Quality Conformance Inspection. Unless otherwise specified, inspection shall be in accordance with ANSI/ASQC Z1.4.

4.3.1 Component and Material Inspection. In accordance with ANSI/ASQC Z1.4, components and materials shall be inspected in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this document or applicable purchase document.

4.3.2 In-process Inspection. Inspection shall be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to determine whether construction details which cannot be examined in the finished product are in accordance with specified requirements.

This inspection shall include verification that the working patterns conform to the Government patterns in all respects. Whenever nonconformance is noted, corrections shall be made to the items affected and lot in process. Items which cannot be corrected shall be removed from production.

4.3.3 End Item Examination. Except for defects with an asterisk (*) in the classification column, all defects found during examination shall be classified in accordance with general and detailed in Table III. Defects with an asterisk (*) in the classification column shall be classified as a Major defect when affecting appearance or serviceability seriously or as a Minor A defect when affecting appearance or serviceability by not seriously.

4.3.3.1 Finished Measurement Defect. The finished jacket shall conform to the measurements specified in Table II. When measuring, the jacket shall be placed flat upon a table with slide fastener closed.

4.3.3.2 Inspection Levels and Acceptable Quality Level. The inspection levels shall be II of ANSI/ASQC Z1.4, for general and detailed defects combined and S-3 of ANSI/ASQC Z1.4, for measurement defects. The acceptable quality level for general and detailed defects combined shall be 2.5 for Major, 15.0 for Major and Minor A combined and 40.0 for totals (Major and Minor A and B combined). The acceptable quality level for finished measurement defects shall be 4.0.

4.3.4 Examination of Preparation for Delivery Requirements. An examination shall be made to determine if packaging, packing and marking requirements have been met.

4.4 General Defects. General defects shall be classified as follows:

Note: Defects with an asterisk (*) in the classification column shall be classified as a MAJOR defect when affecting appearance or serviceability seriously or as a MINOR A defect when affecting appearance or serviceability but not seriously.

TABLE III GENERAL AND DETAILED DEFECTS

DEFECT

CLASSIFICATION

MINOR

MAJOR A B

1. MATERIAL DEFECTS AND WORKMANSHIP DAMAGES

A non-weakening condition that is inconspicuous shall not be classified as a defect A material defect or workmanship damages shall be classified as follows only when the condition is one that definitely weakens the fabric or when it is conspicuously located so that it is clearly noticeable.

a. Any hole *

b. Any weakening defect such as smash, multiple float, or loose slub that may develop into a hole.

c. Shade bar or unsightly slub on outside on inside (except sleeve linings) X

d. Needle chews which may develop into a hole.

DEFECT

CLASSIFICATION

MINOR

MAJOR A B

e. Scissors or knife cut, tear, mend, pull, snag, loop, or burn.

f. One or more exposed drill holes. *

2. SHADED PARTS

a. Outside: Any shaded parts X

b. Inside: Any lining parts badly shaded, affecting appearance.

X

3. CLEANNESS

a. Any spot or stain clearly noticeable on the outside. X

b. Any spot or stain clearly noticeable on the inside. X

c. One or more basting not removed. X

d. Thread ends not trimmed throughout major portion of coat or two or more shade tickets not removed

4. COMPONENTS AND ASSEMBLY

a. Any defective component or defect of assembly X

b. Any component part or required operation omitted (not herein classified)

5. CUTTING

a. Any component not cut in accordance with direction lines on patterns or specified requirements.

b. Yarn line varying from warp direction on front by more than 1/2 inch.

c. Yarn line varying from warp direction on backs by more than 1/2 inch.

DEFECT

CLASSIFICATION

d. Warp yarn varying from sleeve inseam at bottom and top of sleeve.

6. PRESSING.

a. Burned or scorched. drill holes *

b. Armhole stretched. *

c. Sleeves pressed with a crease X

d. Pressing omitted or poorly pressed, affecting appearance (unless otherwise classified).

e. Armholes improperly pressed distorting hang of sleeves

f. Gloss not removed on one or more parts affecting

g. Pressing omitted or poorly pressed, affecting appearance (unless otherwise classified).

h. Linings not pressed smooth. X

i. Fronts either not pressed or poorly pressed. X

j. Armhole seams pressed with pucker and pleats. X

k. Front or lapel edges bulky, i.e., not pressed solid. X

7. SEAMS AND STITCHING

a. Any seam, twisted, puckered, or pleated, affecting

b. Part of garment caught in any unrelated operation or stitching exposed and visible on outside of coat, affecting

DEFECT

CLASSIFICATION

MINOR

MAJOR A B

c. Thread breaks

(1) not securely stitched back of break X

(2) stitching secured but stitched back of break for a distance less than 1/2 inch

d. End of seam or stitching when not caught in other seam or stitching not securely backstitched.

e. Wrong shade of thread or two shades of thread used on outside of same coat.

f. Gauge of stitching (edge or raised stitching).

(1) Irregular, i.e., unevenly gauged or various stitchings not uniform, affecting appearance.

(2) Beyond range of width specified or varies more than 1/16 inch when no range is specified.

(3) Any open seam on machine felling on inside --up to 1 inch inclusive X --more than 1 inch X

g. Open seams. One or more broken or two or more continuous skipped or run-off stitches constitutes an open seam.

(1) On outside --more than 1/2 inch X --1/4 inch or more but not more than 1/2 inch X

(2) On inside --Any open seam 1/4” or more but less than 1/2” X --Any open seam more than 1/2” X

h. Raw edges (raw edges not securely caught in stitching shall be classified as an open seam. Raw edges shall be classified as such only when they occur at places where the edge is required to be turned under).

DEFECT

CLASSIFICATION

MINOR

MAJOR A B

(1) Any raw edge on outside --up to 1/8 inch inclusive X --more than 1/8 inch up to 1/4 inch inclusive X --more than 1/4 inch X

(2) Any raw edge (except seams when binding is not used)

i. Run-offs on joining seams (Run-offs on joining seams resulting in an open seam shall be classified as an open seam).

j. Not specified seam type. X

k. Not specified stitch type X

l. Stitch Tension. (Puckering is evidence of tight tension.

When puckering is evident, the seam shall be tested by exerting pull in the lengthwise direction of seam.

(1) Loose tension, resulting in a loose seam X

(2) Loose tension on edge or raised stitching, resulting in loosely exposed bobbin (lower) thread or top thread

(3) Tight tension (stitches break when normal strain is applied to seam or

m. Stitches per inch

(1) Stitches per inch less than minimum specified (on all seams except labels) one or two stitches X three stitches X four or more stitches X

(2) On labels one or more stitches less than minimum X

8. SLIDE FASTENERS

a. Not type or size specified X

DEFECT

CLASSIFICATION

MINOR

MAJOR A B

b. Garment parts stitched too close to metal chain not permitting slider to pass.

c. Top end of fastener tapes not caught. X

d. Broken prongs affecting serviceability X

9. ALIGNMENT OF FRONTS

Not aligned causing a noticeable bulge or twist on fronts when closed.

10. LENGTH OF CLOSED FRONTS

a. Either front shorter or longer than other front at bottom by more than 3/8”.

b. Either front shorter or longer than other front at neck by more than 3/8”.

c. Slide fastener

(1) chain exposed when closed in front by more than 1/8” X

(2) tape set on too loose or too tight causing excessive bulging on opening affecting appearance

(3) length less than specified by more than 1/2” X

d. Front edges irregular, bulky or not properly forced out affecting appearance

e. Front or bottom edges badly stretched affecting appearance

f. End of waistbands not in horizontal alignment by 1/4” or more when fronts are closed.

g. Tape omitted on fronts of lining X

h. Front edge of basic fabric overlapping zipper X

DEFECT

CLASSIFICATION

MINOR

MAJOR A B

11. KNIT COLLAR

a. Tight at joining to front or back causing puckers or pleats at neck of jacket affecting appearance.

b. Collar ends overlapping when fastening X

c. Collar off-center by more than 3/8” X

d. Finished dimension of collar less than 2” or more than 2 1/2” at center back X

e. Collar irregular in width by 1/4” or more X

12. WAISTBAND

a. Badly twisted affecting appearance X

b. Waistband dimensions less than 3” or not more than 3 1/2” X

13. BODY LINING

Tight, short or twisted causing full or twists on outside of jacket. X

14. SHOULDER CONSTRUCTION

a. Improperly joined or set causing shoulder or back to twist

b. Shoulder pad not properly set on shoulder causing shoulder lining to twist or pucker or causing shoulder lining or pad to bulge excessively.

c. Shoulder pads not tacked to shoulder seams X

d. Shoulder pads misplaced, i.e., too far back or forward not serving intended purpose.

15. ARMHOLES

DEFECT

CLASSIFICATION

a. Stretched X

b. Crooked seam affecting appearance X

16. SLEEVES

a. Setting and hang

(1) Sleeve fullness misplaced X

(2) Sleeve too far forward or back X

(3) Hang of sleeves in opposite directions, i.e., one sleeve too far forward and one sleeve too far back

(4) Sleeves tight in armhole, i.e., causing puckers and twists around armhole

b. Sleeve lining

(1) Twisted, tight or short causing bulge, twist or puckering on outside of sleeves.

(2) Sleeve lining too long causing lining to sag at bottom more than 1/4” from bottom edge of lining.

(3) Sleeve lining seams out of alignment more than 1/2” with sleeve seam at armholes or at bottom of sleeves.

(4) Knit cuffs twisted when attached to sleeve bottoms affecting appearance or serviceability

c. Knit cuffs finished dimension not 3 1/2” (+ 1/4”) X

17. HANGER

a. Omitted or ends not securely stitched X

b. Outside of tolerance by ¼” X

DEFECT

CLASSIFICATION

MINOR

MAJOR A B

18. CONTRACTOR’S LABEL

a. Missing, incorrect, illegible or printing obscured after stitching

b. Not stitched on four sides in the correct location X

19. SIZE TICKET

a. Missing, incorrect or illegible X

b. Placed in the wrong location X

5. PREPARATION FOR DELIVERY

5.1 Packaging.

5.1.1 Level A. Each jacket slide fastener front shall be closed. The sleeves shall be folded to front (see figure 2).

5.1.2 Level C. The jackets shall be packaged in a manner that will afford adequate protection against deterioration and damage during shipment to the USAF Academy for immediate use.

5.2 Packing.

5.2.1 Level A. Fifteen jackets of one size only (see 5.2.1) shall be packed flat in a box conforming to style RSC, type CF or SF, class domestic, variety DW, and grade 275 of Specification ASTM-1974. The minimum bursting strength of the fiberboard shall be 275 psi. The outside dimensions of the container shall be approximately 27” long by 19” wide by 15” deep. (See Figure 2)

5.2.2 Level C. The jackets shall be packed in a commercial type of fiberboard container in a manner that will insure safe transportation at the lowest rate to the point of delivery. Each container shall meet Consolidated Freight Classification Rules or regulations of other carriers applicable to the mode of transportation selected.

5.3 Mixed Sizes. Each shipping container packed with mixed sizes shall have a white paper label 5” by 4” securely attached to the end and side. The words MIXED SIZES shall be printed on the label and under these words shall be legibly printed the correct quantity and size of each garment contained therein. Toward the end of the contract, or when there are less than the quantity or the same size required per container, mixed sizes of jackets may be packed in the same container.

6. NOTES

6.1 Intended Use. The jacket covered by this specification is intended for use as a component of the Dress Uniform worn by Cadets of the United States Air Force Academy.

6.2 Acquisition Requirements. Procurement documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this specification

b. Quantity required by size (see 1.3)

c. Availability of a sample (see 3.1)

d. Requirements for Bid Sample (see 3.2.1)

e. Requirement for First Article

f. Selection of applicable packaging, packing and marking requirements specified herein.

6.3 Figures. Figure 1 shows the general design and is for information only. Figure 2 concerns packing and packaging.

CUSTODIAN: PREPARING ACTIVITY

USAF Academy CO 80840-8210 Cadet Uniforms (10LRS/LGRCU) USAF Academy CO 80840-8210

REVIEWING ACTIVITY:

Chief, Cadet Logistics (10LRS/LGRC) USAF Academy CO 80840-8210

FRONT VIEW

JACKET, ATLETIC, MEN’S AND WOMEN’S

FIGURE 1

FIGURE 2

STANDARDIZATION DOCUMENT IMPROVEMENT PROPOSAL

INSTRUCTIONS: The purpose of this form is to solicit beneficial comments which will help achieve procurement of suitable products at reasonable cost and minimum delay, or will otherwise enhance use of the document. USAFA contractors, government activities, or manufacturers/vendors who are prospective suppliers of the product are invited to submit comments to the government. Comments submitted on this form do not constitute or imply authorization to waive any portion of the referenced document(s) or to amend contractual requirements. Attach any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document. If there are additional papers, attach to form and place both in an envelope addressed to Cadet Uniform Section, 10LRS/LGRCU, 2348 Sijan Dr., Suite 2B1, USAF Academy, CO 80840-8210.

DOCUMENT IDENTIFIER AND TITLE

NAME OF ORGANIATION AND ADDRESS CONTRACT NUMBER

MATERIAL PROCURED UNDER A

Direct Government Contract

Subcontract

1. HAS ANY PART OF THE DOCUMENT CREATED PROBLEMS OR REQUIRED

INTERPRETATION IN PROCUREMENT?

A. Give paragraph number and wording.

B. Recommendations for correcting deficiencies.

2. COMMENTS ON ANY DOCUMENT REQUIREMENT CONSIDERED TO RIGID

3. IS THE DOCUMENT RESTRICTIVE?

4. REMARKS

SUBMITTED BY(Printed or typed name and address - Optional)

TELEPHONE NO.

DATE