Atch_5_Spec_400-07-150923-Cap _Wheel _Men's.pdf

USAFA CU 400-07 FA7000-16-T-0001

23 SEP 2015 Attachment 5

UNITED STATES AIR FORCE ACADEMY

SPECIFICATION USAFA CU 400-07

23 SEPTEMBER 2015

CADET MEN’S

CAP, SERVICE, BLUE, ELASTIQUE

AND

CAP, PARADE, DRESS, WHITE

23 SEP 2015 Attachment 5

CADET MEN’S

CAP, SERVICE, BLUE, ELASTIQUE

AND

CAP, PARADE, DRESS, WHITE

1. SCOPE.

1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for two types of caps: service, blue, elastique; and parade, dress, white for the male cadets at the United States Air Force Academy, Colorado Springs CO.

1.2 Classification. The caps will be of two types in the following sizes, the tariff for which will appear in the invitation for bid.

Type I Cap, Service, Blue Elastique Type II Cap, Parade, Dress, White

SCHEDULE OF SIZES

6-3/8 6-7/8 7-3/8 6-1/2 7 7-1/2 6-5/8 7-1/8 7-5/8 6-3/4 7-1/4 7-3/4

7-7/8

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS.

2.1 Applicable Documents. The following documents, of the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal, form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50196 Thread, Silk A-A-52094 Thread, Cotton A-A-55187 Braid, Textile (Flat) A-A-59571 Cloth, Coated, Vinyl Coated (Artificial Leather)

SPECIFICATIONS

-FEDERAL

V-T-295 Thread, Nylon DDD-L-20 Label for Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use)

-MILITARY

MIL-B-3461 Button, insignia, metal, uniform and cap MIL-B-3577 Sweatband, headwear (leather) MIL-C-368 Cloth, satin, rayon; and cloth, twill rayon MIL-C-3738K Cloth, Elastique, Wool, Type II, 18 ounce, Class 1 MIL-S-43993 Sweatband, Headwear, Artificial Leather ASTM-D-1593 Standard Specification for Polyethylene Plastics Molding And Extrusion

Materials ASTM-D-2475 Standard Specification for Felt

23 SEP 2015 Attachment 5

ASTM-D-5118 Boxes, Fiberboard Shipping, Fabrication Of

STANDARDS

FED-STD-191 Textile Test Methods FED-STD-311 Leather, Methods Of Sampling And Testing ASTM-D-6193 Stitches, Seams And Stitching ANSI/ASQC-Z1.4 Sampling Procedures And Tables For Inspection By Attributes

(Copies of specifications, standards, drawings, and publications required by contractors in connection with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the Contracting Officer.)

2.2 Textile Colors.

2.2.1. For basic fabric, the Contracting Office, 8110 Industrial Drive, Suite 200, U.S. Air Force Academy, Colorado Springs, CO 80840-2315.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Samples. Samples are furnished as a guide only. Variations from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case this specification shall govern. Except for such variations, the design, appearance, quality, construction and workmanship in all respects not covered by this specification shall be equal to sample (see 6.2).

3.2. Sample Approval.

3.2.1. Bid Samples. When required (see 6.2.), the bidder, at the time of submission of the bid, shall submit to the contracting officer the following items for evaluation:

3.2.1.1. One finished cap, size 21 1/2, conforming to the requirements of this specification as to design, construction, workmanship, and appearance, except that the color of the basic material shall be waived for the bid samples only. The basic material used for the bid samples shall be of a similar weight.

NOTE: This requirement may be waived if a prior contractor received the contract for this item.

3. 2. 1. 2 Fabrication and Assembly. The bid samples shall be fabricated to meet all requirements outlined in this specification, using parts, materials (except basic fabric - see 3.2.1.1), processes, and be assembled in a manner identical to that which will be used in production.

3. 2. 2 First Article. When required (see 6.2), before production is commenced, the contractor shall submit to the contracting officer, for approval, the following item:

3. 2. 2. 1 One finished cap size 7 1/8, conforming to the exact requirements of this specification.

3. 3 Material.

3. 3. 1 Basic Material.

Type I - The basic material for Type I Blue Elastique Service Cap and the hat band of the Type II Parade Cap shall be cloth, elastique, wool, and 18.0 ounces, in accordance with Specification MIL-C-3738K, dated 31 March 1987. The material to be fused to the basic fabric shall be a polyester/cotton drill fabric weighting 4.0 ounces per yard + 10 percent. Water-base latex

23 SEP 2015 Attachment 5 adhesive shall be used to permanently bond fabric to prevent separation or peeling of the various layers during normal use. In addition, the fusible interlining shall have separation strength of 20 ounces per inch when tested as specified in FED-STD-191, as listed in Table V, Test Method 5951. The basic material for Type I Blue Elastique Service Cap and the hat band of the Type II Parade Cap is Government Furnished Material (GFM). To obtain the basic material for Type I and Type II caps, contact the Contracting Administrator at 8110 Industrial Drive, Suite 200, U.S. Air Force Academy, Colorado Springs, CO 80840-2315.

Type II - The basic material shall be vinyl-coated cloth (artificial leather) conforming to Class 7, untreated white of Federal Specification A-A-5971, with the following exceptions:

a. The width of the base and coated cloths is not required.

b. The commercial designation of the base cloth shall be 3.70 ounces per square yard.

c. The weight of the coated cloth shall be 15.0 ounces per square yard (minimum).

d. The grain shall be a simulated twill-weave embossing.

e. The coating weight shall be 12.0 ounces per square yard on the outside (face) as a minimum.

f. There shall be a flash coating of vinyl on the inside of the cover; the weight shall not exceed 0.5 ounces per square yard and shall be exclusive of the minimum-weight requirement of the coating on the face (outside) side.

3. 3. 2 Cloth, Rayon, Lining. Material for lining the caps shall be cloth, rayon, stain, 5.0 ounce, conforming to Type I, Class 3, of Specification MIL-C-368. Material for lining Type I Cap will be gray and will be used for inner body band, crown, side quarters, and cover of the front stayer.

3. 3. 3 Crown Seam Binding. The bias binding for the crown seam shall be of the rayon lining material, bias cut, with raw edges folded under to finish 3/8” wide.

3. 3. 4 Buttons. The buttons for the cap shall be metal, 25 line, and conform to the requirements for Type II, Style I, of Specification MIL-B-3461.

3. 3. 5 Inner Body Band. The inner body band shall be of high density (linear) polyethylene plastic material meeting the requirements of ASTM D4976, except that the low-temperature brittleness, dielectric constant, dissipation factor, and thermal-stress cracking resistance properties shall not apply (see 6.5). A suitable grade or a blend of Class C materials shall be used to give the required properties. The bands shall be extruded, stripped, split, or cut 2 1/8” + 1/16” wide, with a thickness of 0.050” + 0.002”. At least one side of the material shall have a dull finish.

3. 3. 5. 1 Punching or Perforating. The plastic band shall be perforate by punching holes in a repetitive pattern, for ventilation. To keep the stability of the band, a 3/8" margin at the top and bottom shall remain free of holes.

3. 3. 5. 2 Stiffness and Bending. The plastic band shall be tested for stiffness at room temperature according to Method 4211 of Federal Standard 311, using a span length of 1.0 inch, a moment weight of

1.0 inch/pound and measuring the load at 20 degrees on the angular deflection scale. The bands shall have a stiffness (scale reading) between 11 and 27 inclusive. The band material shall show no cracks after the bending test.

3.3.6 Sweatband. The leather for the sweatband shall be leather, sheepskin, full grained, 2.5 oz + .5 oz (minimum weight) hatter’s leather, calf finish, dyed black. The sweatband shall be 1 1/2” + 1/8” wide, finished with a turned edge, perforated throughout with a 4-hole design; otherwise to be accordance with the following requirements.

LEATHER SWEATBAND REQUIREMENTS

23 SEP 2015 Attachment 5

Type The leather shall be sheepskin. Tanned with glutaraldehyde or similar substance to create a perspiration resistant product.

Thickness The thickness shall be 2.5 oz + .5oz when inspected as follows. The lot size shall be expressed in units of sweatbands. The sample unit shall be one finished sweatband. The inspection level shall be S-3 and the AQL, expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be 4.0 Thickness shall be determined in accordance with the procedure specified for fabricated leather articles in method 1011 of FED-STD-311.

Color The color of the sweatband shall be black. The grain side of the leather shall have a smooth dull finish. The finish shall contain no lead chromate, lead pigments or other lead salts. Allowance has been made for small amounts of chrome that may be introduced during the tanning or dyeing operations. Unless otherwise specified, the leather shall be such that the finished sweatband shall be embossed with an imitation turned line 1/8” from the top edge.

Blocking The finish of the leather shall not become tacky when tested via test method 3121 of FED-STD-311. At least 80 percent of the tested specimens shall separate with ease and shall show no grain damage or peeling of the finish.

Shrinkage Temperature

The leather shall have a shrinkage temperature of not less than 85oC when tested via test method 7011 of FED-STD-311.

Colorfastnes s

The leather shall be tested for resistance to dry and wet crocking via test method 3031 of FED-STD-311. Staining of the dry and wet crock cloths shall be not lower numerically than AATCC value 4.

Staining The leather shall be tested for resistance to staining via test method 3021 of FED-STD-311. Staining of the test pad shall be not lower numerically than AATCC value 4.

Area Stability to Perspiration

The leather shall be tested for area stability to perspiration via test method 3211 of FED-STD-311. At least 80 percent of the tested specimens shall have an area loss no greater than 15 percent.

Cracking At least 80 percent of the specimens shall not crack when tested via test method 6421 of FED-STD-311.

Chemical Requirement s

The leather shall have an ash characteristic of no more than 5.0, a lead characteristic of zero, a pH characteristic not less than 3.3 and a chromic oxide percent of not more than 0.5, when tested via test methods 6421, 6551, 6621, 6515 respectively of FED-STD-311.

Workmanshi p

The finished leather sweatbands shall conform to the quality of product established by this table and the occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable acceptable quality levels.

As an alternate the sweatband may be constructed of black artificial leather conforming to MIL-S-43993, and it shall be 1-1/2+ 1/8 inches in width.

3. 3. 7 Thread.

3. 3. 7. 1 Cotton Thread. The cotton thread for seaming and stitching shall be thread, cotton, machine, mercerized, Size A, conforming to Specification A-A-52094. The thread shall be vet dyed and shall be black. For crown, front piece, and side quarters on Type II Cap, the thread shall be white.

3. 3. 7. 2 Nylon Thread. The nylon thread for attaching sweatband shall be brown, size C, conforming to Federal Specification V-T-295.

3. 3. 7. 3 Silk thread. The silk thread for tacking front stayer to band and joining visor to cap shall be thread, silk, waxed, black, size E, for hand sewing conforming to Specification A-A-50196.

23 SEP 2015 Attachment 5

3. 3. 8 Plastic Film. The material for the crown protector shall be vinyl plastic film conforming to Type II, Class 1, 0.0040 + 0.0005 inch thick of ASTM D1593.

3. 3. 9 Haircloth, Synthetic. The haircloth used for the front and side quarters shall be laminated onto the basic fabric. The haircloth for the front stayer and quarters shall meet the requirements as specified in the following chart:

CHARACTERISTIC SYNTHETIC

MINIMUM MAXIMUM

Weight, ounces per square yard

7.5 8.5

Yarns per inch:

Warp 49 - Filling 28 - Thickness, inch 0.024 -

Stiffness, Inch-lib Warp - - Filling 0.09 -

Shrinkage in dry cleaning:

Percent:

Warp - 1.0 Filling - 0.5

3. 3. 10 Tie Bow. The tie bow on the sweatband shall be a commercial product of ribbon, rayon, braided, flat, 1/4” wide, and dyed a light-brown shade to match the sweatband. Material shall show good fastness to perspiration.

3. 3. 11 Eyelets. The eyelets for the sides and front shall be brass, black enameled for Type I caps, white enameled for Type II caps, and conform to the dimensions as shown in Figure 9. Prior to coating, Th.

eyelets will be thoroughly cleaned, degreased, and prepared for enameling using a phosphoric acid detergent-type solution, followed by thorough rinsing and drying. The eyelets shall be given a coat of enamel. The front insignia eyelet, in cover, shall be clinched over a brass washer.

3. 3. 12 Adhesive Shade Tickets. Adhesive shade tickets, when used for shade marking, shall be of paper with a thermo-activated adhesive applied on one side that will withstand moderate steam-blocking operations. The adhesive shall not discolor the material, and the adhesive mass shall not adhere to the material upon removal o the ticket.

3. 3. 13 Staples. The staples for the loops on the chinstrap, attaching-the bow to the sweatband, and the button posts shall be commercial flat-head staples, stamped from steel wire, .025 inch thick. The staples shall have a non-corrosive finish.

3. 3. 14 Steel Twin Wire. The steel twin wire, 1 inch, 3/8 inch an 1/4 inch widths for the inner body band grommet and the front stayer, shall be a standard commercial twin wire-cloth tape. The steel wire used therein shall be hard-rolled, cold-finished, carbon steel, cadmium or zinc-plated, flat wire having a No.4 edge, and shall be 0.016 inch thick by 0.090 inch wide.

3. 3. 15 Chin Strap and Decorative Strap.

3. 3. 15. 1 Polyurethane for Chin Strap and Front Decorative Strap. The Polyurethane shall be a dull black .060 + .003 inches thick and 5/8 inch wide. The edge of the strap shall be stained and the face finished with a definite embossed line 1/16 inch from the top and bottom edges. The face surface of straps shall be flexible and free of scars, scratches and other defects that would affect appearance of serviceability.

23 SEP 2015 Attachment 5

3. 3. 15. 2 Decorative/Front Strap. All caps shall be fitted with a deco front strap made in two sections.

One end of each section shall be provided with a 3/16” aperture, the center of which shall be equidistant from the sides and 5/16” from end of strap. The opposite end of each section shall be provided with a loop having a rounded end, which shall be cut in one piece. The loop for the top strap shall be stitched 1/16” from each edge, catching the top strap in both rows of stitching. The ends of the loop shall be folded over the sides of the top strap and closed with two non-corrosive stapes, forming a loop for the bottom strap shall be caught by the two staples instead of the stitching. Each section shall be made the same length, so that, when the strap is assembled, the front edge of the loops shall be the same distance from the center of the buttons on each side. (See Figures 3, 4, and 5.)

3. 3. 15. 3 Chin-Strap Construction. Each frame/cap shall be fitted with a back strap made in two sections going around the back of the cap, one fitted to a 5/8” wide strap. The size o the buckle shall be 5/16”. There shall be a 1/2” wide loop on the left section for the adjusting (right-side section to go through). The ends of the loop shall be folded over the sides of the left section and closed with two non-corrosive staples forming a loop for the right side to pass through. The right side of the chin strap, starting 3-1/4” from the edge of the right side, shall have 12 perforated eyelets 1/8” in diameter that are 3/8” apart measured center-to center for adjustment. There shall be an eyelet at each end of the chinstrap to fit the side buttons of the cap.

3. 3. 16 Labels. Each cap shall be identified by means of a size label or marking, a contractor’s label or marking, identification and barcode label.

3.3.16.1 Contractor’s Label. The material for the contractors label shall be cloth, label, conforming to Type VI, Class 4, of Specification DDD-L-20, and it shall not be treated for mildew resistance. The label shall be stitched on the underside of the sweatband at the side. The contractor’s label shall be 2 7/8” x 1 1/2” with the nomenclature letters 1/4” in height and remaining items in letters 1/8” in height, and shall carry the following information:

Cap, Service, Blue, Elastique or

Cap, Parade, Dress, White

Contractor’s Name Contractor’s Address Contract Date and Number

OR

The contractor’s label may be indelibly stamped with indelible ink on the underside of the sweatband.

3. 3. 16. 2 Size Label. The size label may be of the same material as the contractor’s label, legibly stamped or embossed. The whole numbers shall be not less than 1/4” in height and the fractions not less than 1/8” in height. The size label or marking shall be positioned on the outside of the sweatband. 3/8” to 1/2” from the top edge an to the right or left of the back seam, or label can be caught in sweatband stitching.

3. 3. 16. 3 Identification Label. The linen name label or card size approximately 1 1/2” x 3”, shall be furnished with each cap and contain the following information:

Name________________________________

SSN_________________________________

23 SEP 2015 Attachment 5

Squadron_____________________________

3. 3. 16. 4 Size/Barcode Label. The ticket shall be approximately 2” x 3’. The numbers for the size shall be at least 1/4” in height. Label will also be barcode using type code 39 barcode. Barcode will consist of the (34th TRW/SDCU Cadet Issue Flight stock number for each size. Label will be attached to the outside of each box for convenience of wand reading.

3. 3. 17 Visor for Type I Service Hat. The visor consists of three component parts. The top part is made of slick polyurethane porvair; the bottom part is made of leather ply; and binding is metallized polyester film/flexible vinyl.

3. 3. 17. 1 Slick Ployurethane Porvair. (Top): The polyurethane porvair is s a shiny black 0.60 + .003 inches thick.

3.3.17.2 Slick Polyurethane Porvair. (Bottom): The material for the visor bottom piece is split cowhide vegetable-tanned leather, 2- or 3-ply thick, laminated together to make a total thickness of 6 to 7 ounces.

The leather is finished pearl gray with a priming coat of an acrylate-base lacquer and one or more coats pyroxylin lacquer or vinyl resin finish to give a water-repellent surface. (There shall be no spotting, discoloration, or blistering of the leather.) The face side of the leather has a finely embossed skiver finish.

The leather bottom is bevel-skived on the inside and outside edges, approximately 3/8” wide.

3. 3. 17. 2. 1 Alternate Visor Bottom. (Bottom): As an alternate the finely embossed skiver finish leather bottom, a similar, finished in appearance, high quality synthetic material may be used. The material shall be similar to the leather in color, thickness, and show no spotting, discoloration or blistering. In addition the material shall not crack or warp under normal use. Samples of the synthetic material shall be provided upon request and inspected by Cadet Uniform Section for suitability.

3.3.17.3 Binding for Visor. The binding shall be .0092-metallized polyester film/0035 flexible vinyl as manufactured by Eagle Buckman Company, 951 West Second Street, Hazelton, Pennsylvania 18201 OR

EQUAL.

3.3.18 Visor Cushion. The material for the visor cushion shall conform to Type I, classification 9R4 of ASTM-D-2475 except that the material shall be ¼” thick and shall have fair colorfastness to wet dry cleaning. The visor cushion shall be cut ¾ + 1/8 inch wide and shall be the length of the visor. In lieu of the felt pad, a 3/8” wide and ¼” thick expanded form polyvinyl chloride pad may be used. It shall be attached with self-adhesive (see 4.4.1).

3. 3. 19 Braid.

3. 3. 19. 1 Braid. The braid for the cap shall be mohair flat, 1 3/4” wide, conforming to Type I, Class 3, of Specification A-A-55187 except that it shall show “fair” to color fastness to light, dry cleaning, crocking, and perspiration when tested and specified. The color of braid shall be blue USAF Color Shade No. 1095.

3. 3. 19. 2 Braid. The decorative braid for the cap shall be Braid, A.H. Rice Company, Style 8584, Color 493, Silver Grey, Nylon, President, 3/16” special finish, OR EQUAL.

3. 3. 20 Grommet. The grommet shall consist of a braided nylon tubing, 3/8” steel twin wire and adhesive tape.

3. 3. 20. 1 Nylon Tubing. The nylon tubing shall be a commercial product as manufactured by the A. H.

Rice Company, Pittsfield MA, Style No. 8602, 7/8”, OR EQUAL

3. 3. 20. 2 Steel Wire. The steel wire shall be spring steel 5/16” + 1/16” wide and 0.020” + 0.005” thick, cut to required size. The wire shall be completely covered with white pyroxylin coating. The coupling shall

23 SEP 2015 Attachment 5 be 1” + 1/8” long and zinc or cadmium coated to withstand 25 hours of the salt spray when tested as specified in 4.2.1.

3. 3. 20. 3 Tape. The tape for closing wire and grommet shall be tape, adhesive, white, 1” wide, commercial.

3. 3. 21 “J” Hook. The brass “J” hook for attaching to blue braid shall be brass, black enameled. 5/8” overall length, a 1/8” diameter eyelet, 1/16” throat of hook, and the hook portion 1/4” long. One brass “J” hook shall be attached to the lower part of the center back seam of the frame even with the bottom edge of the braid. Punch a hole and press one 5/16” eyelet through “J” hook, braid, and frame from the outside of the cap, and clinch over a brass washer. Eyelet shall be securely clinched with brass washer. Eyelets and “J” hook shall be black.

3.3.21.1 Brass Washer. Brass washers of appropriate size shall be used to back/clinch the eyelets, the eyelet fastening the J-hook to the cap and the button posts. See operation 17b.

3. 4 Content Label. Each of the caps shall be labeled in accordance with the Tool Products Labeling Act of 1939. The legend may be incorporated into contractor’s label.

3. 5 Design. The cap shall be as shown in Figures 1 through 13 of this specification. The cap shall consist of one front piece, two side quarters, and a top crown piece. The cap shall be fully lined. The top crown piece shall also have a plastic crown protector. The cap shall be provided with a removable grommet, a plastic visor, adjustable chinstrap, front decorative strap, metal “J” hook, a perforated sweatband and a permanently attached front stayer. The front of the cap shall be vertical. The band shall be covered with a 1 3/4” wide mohair braid, with a 3/16” wide silver-gray braid on the top edge only. The visors for the Type I, and Type II service cap shall be metallized polyester film/flexible vinyl binding on a black vinyl plastic top.

3. 6 Measurement of Cap. The crown for a size 7-1/8 cap shall measure 11-1/8” in length and 10-3/4 inch in width, with grommet in position. All other sized measurements as shown in Table I.

TABLE I - MEASUREMENT OF CAPS (INCHES) TYPE I

Height of cap at front (measured from bottom of band to center of crown seam)

4 1/4 + 1/8

Width of quarters at center front (measured from band seam to center of crown seam)

2 3/8 + 1/8

Width of quarters at side seams (measured from band seam to center of crown seam)

2 1/4 + 1/8

Width of quarters at back seam (measured form band seam to center of crown seam)

2 1/8 + 1/8

Length of visor (measured on upper side) 2 + 1/8 Angle of visor (between the vertical front of cap and visor) 45 + 5

TABLE II - CROWN MEASUREMENTS (INCHES)

Length of Crown Width of Crown Size of Cap Seam to Seam Seam to Seam 6 3/8 10 3/8 10 6 1/2 10 1/2 10 1/8 6 5/8 10 5/8 10 1/4

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TABLE II - CROWN MEASUREMENTS (INCHES)

6 3/4 10 3/4 10 3/8 6 7/8 10 7/8 10 1/2 7 11 10 5/8 7 1/8 11 1/8 10 3/4 7 1/4 11 1/4 10 7/8 7 3/8 11 3/8 11 7 1/2 11 1/2 11 1/8 7 5/8 11 5/8 11 1/4 7 3/4 11 3/4 11 3/8 7 7/8 11 7/8 11 1/2 Tolerance for all crown measurements shall be + 3/16”.

3. 7 Sizes. All caps shall be properly sized and marked.

3. 8 Measurements. The grommet lengths, sizes of caps and head measurements shall be as specified in Table III.

TABLE III - LENGTH OF GROMMETS (INCHES)

Length of Steel Wire (Also Outside Circumference of

Size of Cap Head Measurement Length of Steel Wire (Also Outside Circumference of Grommet)

6 3/8 20 1/8 32 6 1/2 20 1/2 32 1/2 6 5/8 20 7/8 32 1/2 6 3/4 21 1/4 33 6 7/8 21 5/8 33 7 22 33 1/2 7 1/8 22 3/8 33 1/2 7 1/4 22 3/4 34 7 3/8 23 1/8 34 7 1/2 23 1/2 34 1/2 7 5/8 23 7/8 34 1/2 7 3/4 24 1/4 35 7 7/8 24 5/8 35

Tolerance Size of Cap measurements +1/8”.

Tolerance – Grommet measurements + 1/8”.

3. 9 Stitches, Seams and Stitching. Stitch, seam and stitching types specified in Table IV shall conform to the requirements of ASTM-D6193. When two or more methods, seams or stitches are given for the same operations, either one may be used.

3. 9. 1 Tacking and Backstitching. Thread breaks and ends of all seams and stitching, when not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be securely tacked or backstitched.

3. 10 Stitches Per Inch. The number of stitches per inch as specified in Table IV shall be interpreted to mean the minimum and maximum permitted.

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3. 11 Manufacturing Operations. The caps shall be manufactured by and with the use of all operations listed in Table IV. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed.

3. 12 Workmanship. The finished cap shall conform to the quality of product established by this specification. Caps must conform to samples submitted to contracting officer prior to production of entire contract.

3. 13 Patterns. All patterns shall be made by the contractor to provide a finished cap conforming to the requirements of this specification. The USAF Academy shall furnish one master pattern in size 7 1/8.

No

TABLE IV

Description of Operations

Stitch Type

Seams And

Stitching Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread

Top Bottom

1. CUT CAPS.

a. The crown piece shall be cut with the length in the direction of the warp.

b. The quarters shall be cut across the warp.

c. The body band shall be cut in the direction of the warp.

d. The crown lining shall be cut with the length in the direction of the warp.

e. The quarters lining shall be cut on the bias.

f. The inside buckram band lining shall be cut on the bias.

g. The stayer lining shall be cut either in the direction of the warp or courses.

h. The lining material for taping the inside crown seam shall be cut on the bias, one inch wide.

i. The haircloth for the front stayer and front side bodies shall be cut so that the horsehair shall be vertical in the finished stiffener

j. The inside buckram band shall be cut in the direction of the warp.

k. The buckram for reinforcing tapes on the top of the side bodies shall be one inch wide, cut on the bias.

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Type

Seams And

Stitching Type

Stitches Per Inch

l. The visor top, liner, and bottom shall be die-cut for accuracy.

2. REPLACEMENT OF DAMAGED

PARTS.

a. Any part of the cap or lining materials containing holes or weakening defects, such as smashes, multiple floats, loose or weakening slubs, and dye streaks, shade bars or unsightly slubs affecting appearance or serviceability, shall be replace at the time of cutting.

b. Replace any part damaged during the manufacturing process that may affect the appearance or serviceability.

3. SHADE MARKING.

a. All parts shall be marked or ticketed to insure a uniform shade and proper assembly throughout the cap.

b. The use of metal fastening devices is permitted on wool, but prohibited or rayon linings. When metal staples are used on wool, the wire shall be aluminum.

c. When adhesive type shade tickets are used, they shall conform to the requirements of para 3.3.12.

4. MAKE INNER BODY BAND. Finished

Appearance: The biased lining strip shall be attached to the inside of the inner body band, covering the twin wire, so that in the finished band the lining is flat and smooth without distortion.

a. The inner body band shall be 2 1/8”

+ 1/16” in width and cut to proper length for each size cap.

b. Overlap the ends of the inner body band 1” and seam together with a row of stitching 3-5 inches in length on each edge of band. Place two additional rows

101, 301 or 401 SSa-1 6-8 A A

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Type

Seams And

Stitching Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread

Top Bottom of stitching 1/2” to 3/4” apart across width of the inner body band catching both ends of the overlap in the stitching.

c. Stitch a 1/4” twin wire to the inside of the band approximately 1” down from top edge. The twin wire ends shall be overlapped 1 1/2”.

301 or 401 SSa-1 6-8 A A

d. Position the bias cut lining on top edge of band with lining edges extending 5/8” to 3/4” on outside of band and seam1/4” gauge from top of band. Stitching shall not show through on inside of lining. The edges of the lining shall be overlapped1” with the end of lining that will show on inside to be turned under a minimum of 1”.

101 or 301 SSa-1 6-8 A A

e. Fold the lining over the inside of the band covering the twin wire and seam 1/4” gauge from bottom edge.

101 or 301 SSa-1 6-8 A A

f. The front welt piece shall be of the basic material, 1 5/16” wide extending across visor area and 1 1/2” beyond buttons on each side.

g. Overcast on edge of the front welt strip. 501 SSa-1 6-8 A A

h. Fold welt piece lengthwise and place over bottom edge of inner body band, with overcast edge on inside and 9/16” to 5/8” up from bottom of band.

301 or 101 SSa-1 6-9 A A

5. MAKE THE FRONT STAYER.

a. The front stayer shall be made of two pieces of haircloth; one strip of 1” wide, twin wire and be completely covered with rayon lining material. The front stayer shall measure 3 5/8” + 1/8” wide at the top, 2 1/4” + 1/8” high at the sides and 3 7/8” + 1/8” high at the center.

The top edge of the front stayer shall conform to the curvature of the crown and the bottom edge shall be straight.

b. Match the bottom, top and side 301 SSa-1 8-10 A A

23 SEP 2015 Attachment 5

Type

Seams And

Stitching Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread

Top Bottom edges of the two pieces of haircloth.

Stitch the two pieces of haircloth together along the top edge only, with a row of stitching placed 3/16” down from top edge. Insert 3 5/8” piece of one-inch wide twin wire between the two pieces of haircloth with edges lined up at bottom and centered on haircloth.

Stitch twin wire to haircloth with one row of stitching through the haircloth and twin wire lengthwise. Cover haircloth with rayon lining. Stitch lining to stayer along sides across top edge and through center of stayer and twin wire.

The lining shall extend 3/8” + 1/16” above top edge of stayer and be caught in the lower row of stitching where the crown seam is double stitched.

6. MAKE BAND. Finished Appearance:

The braid shall finish smooth and flat without puckering or twisting.

a. Band shall be made of a strip of

Type I basic material for both the Type I and Type II caps, 3 1/4” wide, 1 3/4” wide mohair braid and one 3/16” wide silver-gray braid cut to fit the proper size cap.

b. Overcast stitch top and bottom edges of basic material. 501 SSa-1 6-8 A A

c. Position the mohair braid 1/4” below top edge of band and stitch to band 1/32” to1/16” gauge from each edge.

101 SSa-1 10-12 A A

d. Position silver-gray braid even with top edge of the mohair braid and double stitch to band with two rows of stitching 1/16” apart.

301 SSa-1 10-12 A A

e. Join back seam of band with 5/8” seam allowance, catching the ends of braid in the stitching.

f. Press back seam open and flat.

g. Turn under edge and form a hem on the front edge, over the visor area only, 301 SSa-1 10-12 A A

23 SEP 2015 Attachment 5

Type

Seams And

Stitching Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread to finish 3/16” below bottom of braid.

7. MAKE CROWN. Finished Appearance:

The crown and crown lining piece shall not be twisted. The basting stitches shall not be exposed on the outside of finished crown.

a. Center the crown protector piece on the crown lining and stitch around the circumference of the crown protector 1/8” from edge.

301 SSa-1 8-10 A A

b. Position the card holder on the crown protector piece with the long edge 2” down from the front at center and heat seal on 3 sides 1/16” to 1/8” from edge, leaving one of the short sides open for insertion of the 1 1/2” x 3” name card.

c. The finished crown lining shall be well worked into the crown piece and evenly basted. The basting stitch shall be close to the crown edge.

101 SSa-1 8-10 A A

8. MAKE VISOR.

a. The visor top, filler, center piece and bottom piece shall be laminated together. The components shall be pressed and molded to shape.

b. Both Type I & Type II Hat: The outer edge of the visor shall be bound with a strip of the aluminum-colored mylar to a depth of 3/16” on the top and 1/4” on the underside, with the upper edge turned under.

301 Bsb-1 9 Min A A

9. JOIN QUARTERS. Finished

Appearance: The quarters seams of the cap shall be care- fully joined to avoid twisting, puckering, and shall be flat without bulkiness.

a. Laminate haircloth stiffener to the two front quarters.

b. Join the quarters of the cap with a

1/4” seam allowance. 301 SSa-1 10-12 A A

23 SEP 2015 Attachment 5

Type

Seams And

Stitching Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread

Top Bottom

c. Press joining seams open and flat with a heated pressing iron.

10. JOIN QUARTER LININGS. Finished

Appearance: The quarter linings shall be joined that the seams are flat without twisting or puckering.

Join quarter linings with a 1/4” seam allowance. 301 SSa-1 10-12 A A

11. JOIN BAND TO QUARTERS. Finished

Appearance: The back seam of band shall be in alignment with back seam of quarters. The band and quarters shall not twist or pucker.

a. Join top edge of band to quarters with a 1/4” seam allowance; catching from stayer and bottom of quarters lining in the stitching.

b. Overcast the edge of the joining seam. 505 SSa-1 7-9 A A

12. JOIN QUARTERS TO CROWN AND

TAPE CROWN SEAM. Finished Appearance: The quarters shall be joined to the crown with the front stayer so positioned that the seams are not twisted or puckered, with the edges even and without distortion of the crown or quarters.

a. Position quarters on crown with outer edges even and single stitch around edge of crown with 1/4: seam allowance catching top of front stayer in seam.

b. The front stayer shall be centered on the quarters even with the top edge of haircloth even with top edge of quarters and single- stitched through wigan, quarters, and crown.

c. The quarters lining shall be seamed to the crown on the underside keeping the outer edges even. The stitching shall be through crown, and quarters.

23 SEP 2015 Attachment 5

Type

Seams And

Stitching Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread

Top Bottom

d. Press crown seam open and flat with a hand pressing iron.

12.1 Chin Strap Construction. Each cap

shall be fitted with a chin strap made in two sections going around the back of the cap. One section of the chin strap, the left side section, shall have a buckle fitted to a 5/8” wide strap. The size of the buckle shall be 5/16”. There shall be a 1/2” wide loop on the left section for the adjusting (right side section) section to go through. The ends of the loop shall be folded over the sides of the left section and closed with two non-corrosive staples forming a loop for the right side to pass through. The right side of the chin strap, starting 3-1/4” from the edge of the right side, shall have 22 perforated eyelets1/8” in diameter that are 3/8” apart measured center-to-center for adjustment. There shall be an eyelet at each end of the chin strap to fit the side buttons of the cap(See Figure 11).

13. MAKE GROMMET.

a. Grommet shall consist of a 7/8” diameter braided, nylon tubing and 5/16” wide white pyroxylin covered steel wire.

b. Mark and cut steel wire to correct length. Insert wire into nylon tubing, abut ends of wire and close with cadmium clamp.

c. Turn one end of nylon tubing to inside for approximately 2”, forming a smooth edge. Insert smooth edge into the opposite end over- lapping approximately 2”. Cover ends with white adhesive tape, closing tube and finishing grommet. Raw ends of nylon tubing shall be covered with the white tape.

14. INSERT INNER BODY BAND AND

TACK FRONT STAYER. Finished Appearance: The outer body band shall

23 SEP 2015 Attachment 5

Type

Seams And

Stitching Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread

Top Bottom be so attached to the cap that there will be no twisting or puckering of the braid.

a. Insert inner body band into cap with joining seam on right or left of center back seam near rear of cap. Pull lower edge of body band tight over the bottom edge for the inner body band and stitch with a 3/8” seam allowance, omitting the visor area.

301 OSf-1 7-9 A A

b. Stitch body band to inner band with a

1/2” seam allowance in visor area. 301 OSf-1 7-9 A A

c. The bottom edge of braid shall finish a uniform 3/16” up from bottom edge of band

d. Securely tack front stayer to band through braid at lower edge of mohair braid with 6 to 8 stitches across stayer with the ends securely tacked off.

301 or Hand

Lockstitc h or

Hand

2-4

A3

E-Double

15. SEW ON VISOR. Finished

Appearance: The visor shall be well laminated and molded to shape. The finished visor shall present a good appearance to be devoid of scratches or breaks on the vinyl top piece. The visor shall be accurately centered at front of cap.

a. The visor shall be so positioned on the out- side of cap band that the center of visor is in alignment with center front eyelet of cap and the angle formed between the visor and front cap is 45 degrees.

b. Join visor to cap with bottom of visor to be1/8” up from bottom edge of band through welt, visor, front stayer and cap with the ends of stitching securely tacked off. Visor shall finish 2 1/8” at the center.

301 or Hand

Lockstitc h or

Hand

10-12 2-4

A3

E-Double

c. The visor stitching shall be covered by the front hem, made in operation 6g (See Figure12).

23 SEP 2015 Attachment 5

Type

Seams And

Stitching Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread

Top Bottom

16. SET EYELETS. Finished Appearance:

The front eyelet shall be properly centered so that when the insignia is attached it will have the military appearance required. The eyelets in sides of cap shall be accurately spaced and securely clinched.

a. One eyelet shall be positioned in front of cap, centered on the front seam of quarters and be 1-3/16 + 1/16” above the band seam measured to through cap and front stayer and be backed with a brass washer.

b. Two eyelets shall be positioned on each side of cap midway between the crown and the band seam, with each eyelet 1” + 1/8” on each side of the side quarter seam and securely clinched through cap and lining.

17. ATTACHED CHIN STRAP, BUTTONS

AND “J” HOOK. Finished Appearance:

The punch holes for button posts shall be accurately spaced. The chin strap shall not be twisted or uneven.

a. A small hole shall be neatly punched in each side through the cap and innerbody band, on each side 5-1/2” + 1/8” back from the center front, measured from the center of cap to center of punched hole, and 7/16” + 1/16” up from bottom edge of frame to center of hole. The punch holes for the button post shall be accurately spaced.

b. The button socket post shall be inserted and secured with a metal washer 3/8” diameter.

c. The straps shall be snugly fitted and the buttons shall be screwed into the post and turned so that the insignia is in an upright position.

d. One brass “J” hook shall be attached to the lower part of the center back seam on the frame, with the bottom of

23 SEP 2015 Attachment 5

Type

Seams And

Stitching Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread

Top Bottom the hook even with the bottom edge of the braid. Punch a hole and press one 5/16” eyelet through the “J” hook, braid, and frame from the outside of the cap, and clinch over a brass washer of appropriate size. Eyelet shall be securely clinched. Eyelet and “J” hook shall be black.

e. Attach back strap to cap with the ends of the back strap to be underneath the ends of the decorative strap on the button post. The lower edges of the back strap and decorative strap shall be even with the lower edge of the blue mohair braid.

18. MAKE SWEATBAND AND SET INTO

CAP. Finished Appearance: The sweatband shall not be twisted. The bottom of the sweatband nor the felling stitches shall be exposed beyond the outside lower edge of cap.

a. The ends of the sweatband shall be butted together and joined with a row of zigzag stitching catching the tie bow at the upper edge and reinforced with a strip of 1” bias binding on the underside.

If a cloth size label is used, one edge can be caught in the stitching.

304 SSa-1 8-10 A A

b. The sweatband shall be neatly felled into the cap to give a cushioned effect, with not less than 8 stitches per inch, with a single thread. The sweatband shall not be exposed below the bottom edge of cap Sweatband may be machined through the inner band.

Hand or Machine 8 Min C

c. The sweatband shall finish 1 3/4” + 1/8” in width.

19. BLOCK CAPS. Finished Appearance:

The caps shall be uniformly blocked and shall not be distorted in the blocking.

a. The caps shall be hand blocked to proper shape on a block for each specified size.

23 SEP 2015 Attachment 5

Type

Seams And

Stitching Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread

Top Bottom

b. The blocking shall be done on a five-piece block by thoroughly steaming on the block. The caps shall be thoroughly dried while still on the block in a heated oven.

20. INNER GROMMET.

a. Insert grommet into crown of cap.

b. Check cap for any distortion.

21. CLEAN CAPS. Thread ends shall be trimmed. Loose threads, spots and stains shall be removed. Shade tickets shall be removed without injury to the material.

22. FINAL INSPECTION. Each cap shall be 100 percent inspected for conformance to the requirements of this specification, prior to packaging for shipment to the USAF Academy.

23 SEP 2015 Attachment 5

4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS.

4. 1 General. Sampling, inspection and testing of the end item covered by this specification, and components not covered by applicable specification shall be in accordance with ANSI/ASQC Z1.4.

4. 2 Sample Inspection.

4. 2. 1 Sample for Visual Inspection. Sampling for visual inspection shall be in accordance with

ANSI/ASQC Z1.4.

4. 3 Inspection. The contractor shall inspect the finished products 100% for compliance with this purchase description prior to submitting to the USAFA for final inspection by Cadet Uniform Section 10LGRCU Quality Control personnel. Visual inspection of the end product shall be in accordance with the classification of defects and acceptable quality levels set forth below.

4. 3. 1 Final Inspection: The point of final inspection and acceptance of the finished articles shall be at the USAF Academy, using ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 and this purchase description.

4. 3. 2 Inspection Levels And Acceptable Quality Level. Inspection levels and acceptable quality levels (AQL’s) expressed in defects per hundred units (DHU) shall be in accordance with ANSI/ASQC Z1.4. To get an accurate understanding of defects per hundred the inspector shall follow ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 Inspection Levels and it’s instructions. To obtain a copy of ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 call: American National Standard, at 1800-854-7179 or write to: American Society for Quality Control, 611 East Wisconsin Avenue, Milwaukee, WI 53202.

4. 3. 3. Classification of Defects.

4. 3. 3. 1 General and Detailed Defects.

GENERAL AND DETAILED DEFECTS TABLE

CLASSIFICATION

MAJOR MINOR

A B

MATERIAL DEFECTS AND DAMAGES IN WORKMANSHIP:

A. BASIC FABRIC, LINING AND BRAID:

1. Holes or any weakening defect such as multiple floats, slubs, etc., which may develop into a hole.

X

2. Scissors or knife cuts, tears, mends or burns. X

3. Needle chews which may develop into a hole. X

4. Shade bars, unsightly slubs, etc., affecting appearance. X

5. Braid poorly constructed; i.e., not firmly woven; edges cut or frayed. X

B. LEATHER:

1. Cracked, peeled or vein marks, torn or stitch holes. X

2. Soft, spongy, flaky or stretchy. X

23 SEP 2015 Attachment 5

MAJOR MINOR

A B

SHADED PARTS:

Any shaded part affecting appearance. X

CLEANNESS:

Thread ends, shade tickets and noticeable spots not removed throughout the cap.

POLYETHYLENE FILM

Cracked or scratched affecting serviceability X

BLOCKING:

a. Blocking omitted. X

b. Poorly blocked, affecting appearance X

COMPONENTS AND ASSEMBLY:

a. Any component part omitted. X

b. Any defects of component or assembly definitely affecting serviceability.

c. Any defect of component or assembly affecting appearance or limiting serviceability.

SEAMS AND STITCHING:

a. Any seam or stitch type operation omitted. X

b. Seam allowance not maintained, improper seams or stitching resulting in badly twisted, pleated or bulging seams on outside of cap.

c. Thread breaks or ends of joining seams or felling(when not caught in other seams) not securely back-stitched.

d. Multiple skipped stitches, loose or tight stitch tension resulting in an unsatisfactory seam, looper thread on outside of cap.

e. Stitches Per Inch (Applicable to Cloth)

1. Exceeding maximum number specified. X

2. Less than minimum number specified. X

23 SEP 2015 Attachment 5

CLASSIFICATION

f. Gauge of stitching beyond range specified, uneven, or irregular, affecting appearance.

g. Open Seams

1. On outside, any open seam. X

2. On inside, any open seam. X NOTE: One or more broken or 2 or more continuous skipped or run off stitches constitute any open seam.

h. Raw Edges.

1. On outside, any ray edge. X

2. On inside, any raw edge more than 1/4”. X

EYELETS (Applying to all Eyelets):

a. One or more not properly clinched, causing puckers in quarters on outside or raw edges exposed around eyelet on outside.

b. Raw edges of lining exposed around eyelet on inside. X

LABELS:

a. Not specified type. X

b. Size marking missing. X

c. Contract label missing or any label incorrect or illegible. X

GROMMETS:

a. Nylon Grommet.

1. Not specified type. X

2. Ends not overlapped, securely joined and taped. X

3. Diameter 5/8” or less, or 7/8” or more. X

b. Wire Grommet.

1. Not specified material or less than 1/4” wide. X

2. Rough or sharp edges. X

3. Ends not securely stapled and taped. X

23 SEP 2015 Attachment 5

VISOR:

a. Not of specified materials. X

b. Less than 4-ply construction and plies not securely laminated or molded to proper shape.

c. Any scratches, breaks or other surface imperfections on vinyl or binding affecting appearance.

d. Off center with center eyelet of cap by 1/8” or more. X

e. Set at an angle of more than 50 degrees or less than 45 degrees from vertical front of cap.

f. Not securely stitched to inside of band. X

FRONT EYELET:

a. Eyelet positioned on front of cap beyond specified tolerance. X

b. Eyelet or washer not securely clinched. X

BAND:

a. Braid puckered, wrinkled or twisted affecting appearance. X

b. Edge of braid caught in joining band to quarters. X

c. Band and braid positioned on cap beyond specified tolerance. X

QUARTERS:

a. Twisted, puckered or pleated at joining seams. X

b. Joining seams of quarters not pressed open. X

c. Not properly laminated. X

SIDE EYELETS:

a. Eyelets not properly and securely clinched through cap X

b. Eyelets positioned beyond specified tolerance. X

CHIN AND DECORATIVE STRAPS:

a. Finish not as specified and/or without definite embossed line. X

23 SEP 2015 Attachment 5

CLASSIFICATION

MAJOR MINOR

A B

b. Measurements of strap, loops, and holes less than the minimum or exceeding the maximum tolerance specified.

c. Holes positioned beyond specified tolerance. X

d. Embossed line along edges of strap omitted. X

e. Edges not stained or poorly stained. X

f. Loop not securely stitched to strap. X

g. Bottom of loop not securely stapled. X

h. Stitching on loop edges beyond specified tolerance. X

BUTTONS AND SOCKET POSTS:

a. Not specified type, size or finish. X

b. Center of post holes positioned less than 5 5/8 inches from center quarter seam.

c. Center of post holes positioned less than 3/8” or more than 1/2” from bottom edge of cap

X

d. Unevenly spaced from each end of the visor by 1/4” or more. X

e. Eagle not in upright position when buttons are secured tightly in sockets.

f. Posts not secured to inner body band. X

CROWN:

a. Unevenly joined to quarters, resulting in pleating or twisting of crown and quarters.

b. Poorly shaped, affecting appearance. X

c. Lining bating stitch exposed on outside, affecting appearance. X

d. Not properly laminated. X

SWEATBAND:

a. Not specified material, type or shade. X

b. Bottom edge or felling stitches exposed beyond edge of cap affecting X

23 SEP 2015 Attachment 5

MAJOR MINOR

A B appearance.

c. Short, puckered, or twisted. X

d. Any measurement exceeding the maximum or less than the minimum tolerance specified.

VISOR WELT:

a. Ends of welt not extending 1 1/2” beyond buttons on side or not securely tacked.

b. Not the proper width. X

FRONT STAYER:

a. Any measurement exceeding the maximum or less than the minimum

b. Row of stitching omitted at either side of twin wire. X

c. Stayer not securely tacked through band and braid. X

d. Top edge of stayer not securely stitched through haircloth, quarters and crown.

e. Any component part of stiffener omitted. X

“J” HOOK:

a. Not properly attached. X

b. Not securely clinched. X

c. Not properly positioned. X

d. “J” Hook omitted. X

CROWN PROTECTOR PIECE:

a. Not specified type. X

b. Any measurement exceeding the maximum or less than the minimum

c. Twisted, puckered or pleated. X

CARD HOLDER:

23 SEP 2015 Attachment 5

CLASSIFICATION

a. Not specified type. X

b. Any measurement exceeding the maximum or less than the minimum

c. Sealed on four sides. X

CROWN LINING:

a. Lining tight or short. X

b. Twisted or puckered. X

BIAS CUT BUCKRAM:

a. Not extending around entire circumference of crown. X

b. Badly puckered or twisted. X

BUTTON SOCKET POSTS:

a. One or both securely locked to innerbody band. X

b. Brass washers not used to secure the posts to the innerbody band.

INNERBODY BAND:

a. Not overlapped and properly stitched. X

b. Twin wire omitted or stitched to outside of inner- body band X

c. Lining omitted or improperly stitched, twisted or puckered. X

QUARTERS LINING:

a. Tight or twisted affecting smoothness of outside quarters. X

b. Any measurement exceeding the maximum or less than the minimum specified.

FRONT QUARTERS STIFFENER:

a. Haircloth stiffener omitted or top edge not vinyl taped. X

b. Buckram strip on top edge omitted or not caught in…