Draft MIL-DTL-82122E 2026.07.08.pdf

NOTE: This draft, dated 8 July 2026, prepared by United States Marine Corps, has not been approved and is subject to modification. DO NOT USE PRIOR TO APPROVAL. (Project 8410-2026-006)

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to Marine Corps Systems Command, 2200 Lester Street, Quantico, VA 22134 ATTN: SEAL-MA-STDS or emailed to USMC_STDZ@usmc.mil. Since contact information can change, you may want to verify the currency of this address information using ASSIST at https://assist.dla.mil.

AMSC N/A FSC 8410

Distribution Statement A. Approved for public release: distribution is unlimited.

MIL-DTL-82122E (MC)

DRAFT

SUPERSEDING

MIL-DTL-82122D (MC)

8 OCTOBER 1997

DETAIL SPECIFICATION

JACKET, WOMEN’S – EVENING DRESS (OFFICERS AND STAFF NONCOMMISSIONED OFFICERS)

This specification is approved for use by the United States Marine Corps and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This specification covers a USMC women’s evening dress jacket.

1.2 Classification. The jackets are of the following types, class, and sizes and lengths, as specified (see 6.2).

1.2.1 Types. The jackets are available in the following types:

Type I - Staff non-commissioned officer (SNCO) Type II - Officer

1.2.2 Class. The jackets are available in the following class:

Class 1 - Polyester/Wool, Tropical, Black 2607

1.2.3 Sizes and lengths. The jackets are available in the following sizes and lengths:

Short Regular Long 0X 0X 0X 2 2 2 4 4 4 6 6 6 8 8 8 10 10 10 12 12 12 14 14 14 16 16 16 18 18 18

1.3 Individual order. When jackets are custom tailored to an individual order, this specification will govern, except the cut pieces may be modified to the extent necessary for good custom tailoring practice and the finished dimensional requirements will be determined based on modifications to the patterns.

INCH-POUND

mailto:USMC_STDZ@usmc.mil https://assist.dla.mil/

DRAFT DATED 8 JULY 2026

2. APPLICABLE PUBLICATONS

2.1 General. The publications listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include publications cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, users of this document are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of publications cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government publications.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these publications are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50067 - Cloth, Flannel, Wool

A-A-52071 - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose

A-A-52105 - Cloth, Interfacing, Cotton, or Synthetic Warp, and Spun Hair-Wool, Rayon or Synthetic Filling

A-A-59992 - Cloth, Interfacings: Woven, Cotton and Synthetic

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-368 - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon

MIL-DTL-371 - Braid, Textile, Tubular

MIL-DTL-3461 - Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap

MIL-DTL-15064 - Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head

MIL-DTL-21115 - Cloth, Tropical: Wool, Polyester/Wool

MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: for Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use)

MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusibles

MIL-DTL-82112 - Ornamentation - for Uniform, Woman’s, Evening Dress, Officer’s

(Copies of these publications are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these publications are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC EP1 - Gray Scale for Color Change

AATCC EP2 - Gray Scale for Staining

AATCC TM15 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Perspiration

AATCC TM132 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Drycleaning

AATCC TM158 - Test Method for Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning, Perchloroethylene

(Copies of these publications are available online at www.aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies of this publication are available online at https://asq.org.)

https://quicksearch.dla.mil/ http://www.aatcc.org/ https://asq.org/

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of this publication are available online at www.astm.org.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Inspections.

3.1.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.1.2 Conformance inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to a conformance inspection in accordance with 4.3.

3.2 Standard sample. Standard samples are furnished solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from the specification may appear in the sample, in which case the specification shall govern.

3.3 Design. The jacket shall be the United States Marine Corps design described in table I and as shown on figures 1 through 10. Figures are for information only. In the event of conflict between these figures and the text of this specification, the text of this specification shall govern.

TABLE I. Jacket design.

Design Feature Detail

Body Semi-fitted Two-panel front and three-panel back Fully lined Notched lapels Darts in front side panels

Front Short waisted Four insignia buttons (two buttons on each front)

Collar Rolled collar Eyelet at each end of collar for branch of service insignia Plain top collar (type I only) Ornamental top collar (type II only)

Sleeves Long sleeves Two-piece sleeves Fully lined Pointed cuff (type I only)

Shoulder straps (type II only)

Shoulder straps that button with insignia buttons

Pocket Inside pocket https://www.astm.org/

3.4 Materials.

3.4.1 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.4.2 Basic material. The basic material shall be cloth, tropical, polyester/wool, black, shade 2607 (see 6.3), conforming to type III, class 3 of MIL-DTL-21115.

3.4.3 Top collar material. The basic material shall be cloth, tropical, wool, scarlet, shade 2502 (see 6.3), conforming to type I, class 2 of MIL-DTL-21115.

3.4.3.1 Bias binding. The binding for the armhole shields shall be bias cut out of the lining material specified in 3.4.3. The binding shall be 5/8 to 7/8 inch wide and shall have sized edges.

.3.4.3.2 Collar ornamentation (type II only). The collar ornamentation for the top ply of the collar shall be fabricated in accordance with MIL-DTL-82112.

3.4.4 Lining. The material for lining the jacket shall be cloth, twill, rayon, black, shade 2604 (see 6.3), conforming to class 1 of MIL-DTL-368.

3.4.5 Interfacing. The interlining shall be used for the jacket fronts. The interlining shall be cloth, cotton warp, spun hair wool filling, plain weave, conforming to type I of A-A-52105.

3.4.6 Fusible interlining. Fusible interlining shall be used for the facings, collar, and shoulder straps. The fusible interlining shall be non-woven fusible interlining, 20 percent nylon and 80 percent polyester, polyamide paste dot conforming to MIL-C-44296, type V or VI, class 1, style B when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The fusible interlinings shall be applied in accordance with the fusible manufacturer’s recommended time, temperature, and pressure settings.

3.4.7 Wigan (type II only). Optionally, the wigan may be used to reinforce the bottom edge of the sleeves. If used, the wigan shall be cloth, wigan, cotton, plain weave, conforming to type III, class 8 of A-A-59992.

3.4.8 Under-collar cloth. The under-collar cloth shall be wool flannel conforming to A-A-50067, except the acidity (pH) requirement and colorfastness to perspiration and crocking requirements shall not apply. As an alternate, material that meets the requirements of table II, when tested in accordance with 4.4.1, may be used. The color of the cloth shall be black of a shade to closely match the basic material.

TABLE II. Alternate flannel fabric properties.

Characteristic Requirement

Fiber content 100 percent polyester Construction Needle punched non-woven material Weight (ounces per square yard) 8.0 to 10.0 Thickness (inch at 0/6 pounds per square inch) 0.070 to 0.095

3.4.9 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to type III, class 1 of MIL-DTL-15064 when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.4.10 Sleeve head pads. The sleeve head pads shall conform to type IV of MIL-DTL-15064 when tested as specified in 4.4.1. As an alternative, the sleeve head may be provided on a continuous roll and cut to the required length as long as the finished jacket meets appearance requirements.

3.4.11 Stay tape. The stay tape used for the armholes, front edges, and bridle tape shall conform to type II, class 1 or 2 of A-A-52071. Tape shall be 3/8 inch wide for the front edges of jackets and 1/4 inch wide for the armholes and waist seam.

3.4.12 Hanger loop. The hanger loop shall be made from cotton, tubular, flat braid, conforming to MIL-DTL-371, type IX, class 1 when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The shade shall be black.

3.4.13 Thread. The thread shall conform to the publications cited in table III. The thread shall be black, cable No. 66043, except that used for basting, machine tacking the armholes, and eyelet thread. The thread for basting and for machine tacking armholes shall be white or clear. The thread for making the eyelets on the collar shall be scarlet, shade W, cable No. 66040.

TABLEIII. Thread.

Use (Seam Type) Description Publication Tex Number Ply

Seaming (301)

Cotton-covered polyester core A-A-50199, type I 36-45 for needle and bobbin 2

Seaming (401)

Cotton-covered polyester core A-A-50199, type I 36-45 for needle 2

31-35 for looper Overedging (504 and 505)

Cotton-covered polyester core A-A-50199, type I 31-35 for needle and looper 2

Raise, edge, and topstitching

Cotton-covered polyester core A-A-50199, type I 36-45 for needle and bobbin 2

Buttons Cotton-covered polyester core A-A-50199, type I 61-70 2 or 3 Eyelets Nylon, twisted, soft finish A-A-59826, type I, class A 45-46 2 or 3

Felling Nylon, tailoring, twisted multiple cord, soft finish

A-A-59826, type VI 24 2 or 3

Machine tacking armholes

Cotton-covered polyester core A-A-50199, type I 61-70 2 or 3

Tacking (103 or Hand)

Cotton-covered polyester core A-A-50199, type I 36-45 2 31-35

Basting Commercial grade cotton, cotton-covered polyester core, nylon, or monofilament synthetic (see 3.4.13.1)

3.4.13.1 Synthetic thread. A monofilament synthetic thread may be used for those basting operations where the thread is required to be removed, provided the garment is subsequently given a treatment of a dry-cleaning agent in which the synthetic thread is soluble. When this thread is used, any residue remaining on the garment after the dry-cleaning process shall be brushed off or removed.

3.4.14 Insignia buttons. The insignia buttons used for the jacket front and the shoulder straps shall be metal, gold plated, 27-ligne, conforming to type I, style 3, class A, sub-class 1 of MIL-DTL-3461.

3.4.15 Labels. Each jacket shall have a combination identification/instruction label, a size label, and a removable label/tag conforming to the requirements below. The order of information on the labels may be modified to facilitate production of the labels. The jacket is intended to be dry cleaned and the labels shall show fastness to dry cleaning.

3.4.15.1 Identification/instruction label. The identification/instruction label shall conform to type VI, class 15, of MIL-DTL-32075 including the colorfastness to dry cleaning requirements, when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The color of the label shall be white, and the label shall measure not less than 2-1/2 inches wide by 1-1/2 inches long.

The content shall be as follows, with information inserted in place of the descriptors, as applicable:

Nomenclature: (item description) Contract number:

Name of contractor:

Wool Products Act information:

DRY CLEAN ONLY

3.4.15.2 Size label. The size label shall be type VI, class 2 of MIL-DTL-32075 and shall measure not less than 1-1/2 inches by 1 inch. The label shall consist of the size and length designation specified in 1.2.3 followed using the letters XS, S, R, L, or XL (for Extra-Short, Short, Regular, Long, or Extra Long), and the stock number.

10R (stock number)

3.4.15.3 Certification label. When specified (see 6.2), the jacket will have a certification label. The certification label shall be approximately 1-1/2 inches by 3 inches. The proposed finished label’s design shall be submitted for approval as specified (see 6.2). The content shall be as follows, with information inserted in place of the descriptors, as applicable:

United States Marine Corps logo “Garment manufactured of U.S.M.C approved materials for style design and quality to like item approved by U.S.M.C” Certification Number:

3.4.15.4 Removeable tag. Each item shall have a removable tag in accordance with type VIII, class 17 of MIL-DTL-32075. The labels shall be positioned so that they are completely visible on the item when it is packaged as specified in the contract or procurement documents (see 6.2). The label’s attachment method and location shall cause no damage to the item.

3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished by the Government as specified (see 6.2). Government patterns show size, seam allowances, and directional lines for cutting and are marked or notched for proper placement and assembly of component parts. The directional lines indicate the warp direction of the cloth unless otherwise indicated on the patterns. The list of pattern parts in 3.5.1 is provided to ensure that the pattern set provided is complete. The Government patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall only be used for cutting the contractor’s working patterns. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns, except that additional notching, if needed to facilitate manufacture during construction, is permitted on the working patterns.

Minor modifications are permitted where necessary to accommodate the manufacturer’s processes and the use of automated equipment, provided the modifications do not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in this document or those governed by the Government pattern. The Government patterns provide 3/16-inch allowance for seams at the edges of lapels, front edges of jacket, and for shoulder straps; 3/4-inch allowance for side seams; and 3/8-inch for all other seams.

3.5.1 List of pattern parts. Jacket parts shall be cut from the materials specified in table IV in accordance with the number of pattern parts indicated.

TABLE IV. List of pattern parts.

Material Item Number of Cut Parts

Basic material (see 3.4.2) Front 2 Side front 2 Side back 2 Back 1 Front facing 2 Top sleeve 2 Under sleeve 2 Shoulder strap 4 Sleeve cuff 2 Underarm shield 2

Top collar material (see 3.4.3) Top collar 1 Lining (see 3.4.4) Front lining 2

Back lining 1 Side back lining 2 Top sleeve lining 2 Under sleeve lining 2 Inside pocket 2

Interfacing (see 3.4.5) Front interfacing 2 Fusible interlining (see 3.4.6) Side front interlining 2

Front facing interlining 2 Under collar interlining 1 Shoulder strap interlining 2 Sleeve cuff interlining 2

Wigan (see 3.4.7) Wigan sleeve reinforcement 2 Cloth, wool, flannel (see 3.4.8) Under collar 1 Shapers Under collar shaper 0

Top collar shaper 0 Finished lapel shaper 0 Working lapel shaper 0

Markers Collar stand marker 0 Sleeve cuff marker 0 Sleeve patch marker 0

Canvas Chest piece 2 Chest piece wedge 2

Haircloth Chest piece haircloth 2

3.6 Finished dimensions. The finished jacket shall conform to the measurements shown in table V, as defined in table VI. Small parts and components shall conform to the measurements in table VII. All measurements and tolerances are expressed in inches.

TABLE V. Jacket measurements (inches).

Tol. X0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18

A: Front Chest All Lengths ±3/4 8-1/4 8-1/2 8-3/4 9 9-3/8 9-3/4 10-1/8 10-5/8 11-1/8 11-5/8 B: Back Chest All Lengths ±3/4 16-3/8 16-7/8 17-3/8 17-7/8 18-5/8 19-3/8 20-1/8 21-1/8 22-1/8 23-1/8 C: Back Length Short ±3/8 15-1/2 15-3/4 16 16-1/4 16-1/2 16-3/4 17 17-1/4 17-1/2 17-3/4 Regular ±3/8 16-1/2 16-3/4 17 17-1/4 17-1/2 17-3/4 18 18-1/4 18-1/2 18-3/4 Long ±3/8 17-3/4 18 18-1/4 18-1/2 18-3/4 19 19-1/4 19-1/2 19-3/4 20 D: Sleeve Length Short ±3/8 16 16 16 16 16 16 16 16 16 16 Regular ±3/8 17 17 17 17 17 17 17 17 17 17 Long ±3/8 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 18

TABLE VI. Jacket methods of measurement.

Measurement Description Guidance 1/

A: Front chest Measurement taken across the front from the base of the armhole to the finished edge of the jacket front.

B: Back chest Measurement taken across the back from the base of one armhole to the base of the opposite armhole.

C: Back length Measurement taken along the center back seam from the lower edge of the under collar to the bottom edge of the jacket.

D: Sleeve length Measurement taken along the forearm seam from armhole to the bottom edge of the sleeve.

FOOTNOTES:

1/ The figures are provided for guidance only and shall be used solely to assist in the interpretation of the point of measure (POM) instructions and methods of measurement.

A

B

C

D

TABLE VII. Small parts measurements (inches). 1/

Finished Jacket Part Description Finished Dimensions Tolerance

Collar Collar stand width, at the center 1-1/8 ±1/8 Distance from center of collar eyelet to collar edges 2/ 1 ±0 Eyelet opening, collar 1/8 ±0 Under collar stand width, at the center 1-1/8 ±1/8 Distance from juncture end of collar and lapel to finished edge of collar

1-5/8 ±1/8

Lapels Distance from juncture end of collar and lapel to finished edge of lapel

1-5/8 ±1/8

Edge stitching from juncture end of collar and lapel down the jacket front

1/8 ±0

Shoulder straps (type II only)

Shoulder strap width, in line with center of the eyelet 1-3/8 ±1/8 Shoulder strap width, at armhole seam 1-3/4 ±1/8 Distance from center of shoulder strap eyelet to shoulder strap rounded end

5/8 -0, +1/8

Shoulder strap back finished edge behind shoulder seam 1/2 ±0 Eyelet opening, shoulder straps 1/8 ±0 Edge stitching on sides and rounded end 1/8 ±0

Front Distance from center of top button to jacket finished edge 1 ±0 Distance from center of bottom button to jacket finished edge

7/8 ±0

Distance from center of bottom button to jacket bottom finished edge

1-1/8 ±0

Sleeves Distance from sleeve lining to the finished bottom edge of sleeve

1-1/8 ±1/8

Cuffs (type I only)

Sleeve cuff length, at front and back creased edges 2-3/4 ±1/4 Sleeve cuff length, at point 4-3/4 ±1/4 Edge stitching on top edge, extending around entire cuff 1/8 ±0

Hanger loop Hanger loop opening 1-1/2 ±1/8 Lining Lining back pleat width 1 ±0

Lining front shoulder pleat width 1/2 ±0 Pocket Inside pocket depth 4-1/4 ±1/8

Inside pocket opening 4-1/2 ±1/8 Distance from bottom of pocket opening to bottom hem of jacket

3 ±1/2

Labels Distance from bottom of label to bottom hem of jacket 6-1/2 ±1/2

FOOTNOTES:

1/ All jacket sizes and lengths.

2/ When measured perpendicular to collar edge.

3.7 Construction. The jacket shall be manufactured in accordance with the operations and the stitch type, seam type, and stitches per inch specified in 3.7.2 and 3.8.

3.7.1 Cutting. Jackets shall be cut in strict accordance with the patterns furnished by the Government. All materials shall be cut in the direction indicated by the directional lines on the patterns. All wool parts of the jacket shall be cut from the same lot of basic material, except the underarm shields may be cut from ends. When underarm shields are cut from ends, the underarm shields should match each other. The lining fronts, lining side backs, and center back lining parts of the jacket and facing for inside pocket shall be cut from the same lot of lining material.

All other lining parts may be cut from ends. When pairs of sleeve linings are cut from ends, the shade of the lining parts shall match each other. Fusible interlining stays shall be cut for the armhole, back neckline, and shoulder seams on the bias, 3/4 inch wide, 4 ±1/4 inches long. The interlining cloth for collar shall be cut on the bias in accordance with the pattern furnished. The use of drill holes shall be prohibited.

3.7.2 Stitches, seams, and stitching. The stitch and seam types specified in table VIII shall conform to ASTM D6193. The number of stitches per inch as specified in table VIII indicates the minimum and maximum number permitted. All overedge stitching shall be done on serging machines with a knife attachment properly set to trim the raveled edge without cutting the material.

TABLE VIII. Stitches, seams, and stitching.

Operation(s) Stitch Type Seam Type Stiches per Inch

Eyelets – collar (all types), shoulder straps (type II only) - - 20 per eyelet (minimum)

Buttons Hand - 4-6 per button (double thread) 301 - 21 per button 101 - 21 per button

Edgestitch – shoulder straps (type II only) 301 SSe-2 10-14 Edgestitch – top and front edge of lapels, front edges of jacket, and pointed cuff 301 SSe-2 10-14

Basting (unless otherwise specified below) 301 Hand 4-6 301 Hopper

101 SSm-1 Basting – under collar to jacket, armhole Hand - 4-6 Seaming (unless otherwise specified below) 301 SSa-1 10-14

401 SSa-1 10-14 Seaming – shoulder straps (type II only) 301 SSe-2 10-14 Seaming – inside pocket 301 SSc-1 10-14 Seaming – sleeves at forearms, sleeve linings. 301 SSbd-1 to SSa-1 10-14

Joining facings and fronts with tape 103 SSm-1 4-6 Taping armholes 301 SSaa-1 10-14

401 SSaa-1 10-14 Assembly – joining the top collar to the under collar 304 LSa-1 8-10 Tacking – neck edge of jacket to the undercollar lining sleeves turn up to reinforcement pieces (wigan) and jacket facing to lining

Hand - 4-6

103 SSm-1

TABLE VIII. Stitches, seams, and stitching – Continued.

Operation(s) Stitch Type Seam Type Stiches per Inch

Tacking – top collar to fronts at gorge, sleeves to the reinforcement pieces (wigan) along the forearm seam allowance, sleeve lining forearm and back arm seam allowance to sleeve seam allowance

101 SSa-1 4-6 Hand SSa-1 4-6

301 SSa-1 10-14

Felling – collar to jacket, lining to facing, sleeve linings, back lining and facing-lining assembly at shoulders

Hand -

8-10 Machine (hand type felling) LSa-1

306 LSa-1 Felling – bottoms Hand - 8-10

103 SSm-1 4-6

Felling – lining to bottom turnup, sleeve lining to bottom edge of the sleeve cuff. 301 EFc-1 6-8

3.7.3 Thread breaks and ends of seams. The ends of all seams and stitching produced with 301 stitch types, when not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be backstitched not less than 1/4 inch. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitches may be repaired by using 301 stitch type. The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. Thread ends of darts shall be trimmed to a length of 1/2 inch. When an automatic dart machine is used, the ends shall be backstitched not less than three stitches.

3.7.4 Shade marking. The component parts of the jacket cut from one piece of basic material and lining material, including pairs of sleeve lining when cut from ends, shall be shade marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of shade marking may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.

b. Sew-on shade tickets.

c. Adhesive type tickets which show discoloration or the use of an adhesive mass which adheres to the material upon removal of the tickets.

3.7.5 Replacement of damaged parts. At the time of cutting, any parts of the jacket containing holes or serious weakening defects such as smashes, multiple floats, loose weakening slubs, other material defects listed in 4.4.3.2 expected to develop into holes, shade bars, and dye streaks, or unsightly slubs affecting appearance shall be replaced. Any parts damaged during the manufacturing process by needle chews, which may develop into a hole, scissor or knife cuts, tears, holes, mends, or burns in the material affecting appearance shall be replaced.

3.7.6 Pressing. The jacket shall be well pressed throughout with a heated iron or pressing machine of a type suitable to obtain the desired shape and appearance in accordance with good manufacturing practices. The jacket shall be pressed smooth and flat, removing all fullness. There shall be no wrinkles, creases, impressions, or pressing marks throughout the jacket and the jacket lining.

3.8 Construction requirements. End item construction and appearance shall conform to the requirements specified below.

3.8.1 Jacket front. Bust lines on both sides shall be alike. The contour of the bust line shall be maintained in the seaming. The facings shall be tacked at the back edge to the jacket front interlining with blind stitching, starting approximately 2 inches from the bottom edge of the jacket and tacking to approximately 2-1/2 inches from the shoulder edge of the interlining. Tacking shall be through the seam allowance of the facing and linings. Interlining fullness shall be properly distributed over the breast area. All shell seams shall be pressed open and flat. The front edges of the jacket shall have 1/8-inch edge stitching.

3.8.2 Underarm bust darts. The bust darts shall have a 1/4-inch seam, tapering to a point at the upper end, and securely back tacked. The bust darts shall be pressed open and flat.

3.8.3 Lining.

3.8.3.1 Body lining. The jacket body shall be fully lined. The front lining shall have one stitched dart on each side. The darts shall be tapered from 3/8 inch to a point at the upper ends and secured with a back tack. The darts shall be pressed with the edge towards the bottom of the jacket. The back lining shall have a center pleat. The folded edge of the center back pleat on the outside of the lining shall be towards the right side, as worn. The front linings shall have shoulder pleats. The folded edge of the shoulder pleat on the outside of the lining shall be towards the armhole. The facing-lining joining seams, lining side seams, and left and right back lining seams shall be pressed with the raw edges of the seam allowance toward the back.

3.8.3.2 Sleeve lining. The jacket shall have a two-piece sleeve lining joined at the forearm and back arm. The lining seams shall be aligned with the corresponding seams in the sleeve. The sleeve lining shall be seamed or tacked to the sleeve back arm and forearm seam allowance, starting approximately 5 inches above the finished bottom edge of the sleeve, continuing to approximately midway up the sleeve (see figure 3 and figure 4). The sleeve lining shall finish 1 to 1-1/4 inches above the finished end of the cuff. The sleeve lining may be felled to the bottom of the sleeve without basting.

3.8.4 Labels. The identification/instruction label, the manufacturer’s label and the certification label shall be stitched down on all sides with a single row of stitching 1/16 inch from the edge of the label. The ends of the label stitching shall overlap not less than three stitches. The manufacturer’s label shall be sewn to the left front lining (as worn), horizontally with the edge of the label approximately 1/2 inch from the facing-lining seam. The identification/instruction label shall be sewn directly below the manufacturer’s label. When specified (see 6.2), the certification label may be combined with the identification/instruction label. The upper edge of the size label shall be caught in the stitching at the bottom of the identification/instruction label.

3.8.5 Collar. The collar shall have one eyelet at each end of the collar. The eyelets shall be well worked with the purling on the outside of the collar. The collar shall be edge stitched 1/8 inch from the finished edge. The top collar shall consist of one piece of top collar material and a single piece of fusible interlining material. The under collar shall consist of one piece of under collar cloth. The top collar shall be joined to the under collar at the top edge with zig zag stitching, properly distributing the fullness between the notches. The zig-zag stitching shall extend to the end of the collar. The back neckline shall be taped on the underside with 1/4-inch tape.

3.8.5.1 Collar ornamentation (type II only). The collar ornamentation for the top ply of the collar shall have gold embroidery of an oak leaf and acorn design. The collar ornamentation shall conform to type II of

MIL-DTL-82112.

3.8.6 Lapels. The gorge line shall be taped on the underside with 1/4-inch tape from shoulder to 1/4 inch below top of lapel. The front and top edges of the lapels shall have 1/8-inch edge stitching. The lapels shall be roll pressed on a suitable type heated pressing machine.

3.8.7 Shoulder straps (type II only). The shoulder straps shall be made of two plies of basic material and one ply of interlining. The finished shoulder strap shall be edge stitched 1/8 inch from the edge, along the folded sides and rounded end. The straps shall taper in width from the armhole seam to the rounded end near the neckline. The shoulder straps shall be positioned so the rounded end shall be 1/4 to 3/8 inch away from the neckline edge, the raw edge is flush with the armhole, and the back finished edge of the strap is placed 1/2 inch behind and in line with the shoulder seam.

3.8.7.1 Shoulder strap buttons (type II only). Each shoulder strap shall have one 27-ligne insignia button to correspond with the eyelets in each shoulder strap with no slack, bulging or distortion. The buttons for the shoulder straps shall be centered in the buttonholes at the base of the straps. The buttons shall be sewn with the head of the eagle towards the edge of the collar.

3.8.7.2 Shoulder strap eyelet placement (type II only). Each shoulder strap shall include a single eyelet positioned midway between the front and back edges, with the edge of the eyelet opening located 5/8 to 3/4 inch from the rounded end of the strap. The eyelets shall be well worked with the purling on the outside of the shoulder straps. The eyelet opening shall finish 1/8-inch diameter with the purled edge of the eyelet away from the opening.

3.8.8 Sleeves. The jacket shall have a two-piece sleeve. The back arm seam and the joining seam shall have the fullness evenly distributed. The bottom of the sleeve outer shell shall be turned up 1-1/2 inches and blind stitched.

3.8.9 Sleeve cuffs (type I only). The point of the cuff shall be centered between the lower front creased edge and the creased back arm seam of sleeve. The cuff shall be stitched to the sleeve before the sleeve joining seam is stitched. The cuff ends shall be caught in the sleeve back arm seam. The cuff shall be 1/8-inch edge stitched.

3.8.10 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pads shall be inserted over the interlining of the jacket front, in line with the armhole edge and securely tacked to the interlining.

3.8.11 Sleeve head pads. The sleeve head pads shall be added to the jacket with the folded edge of the pad approximately 1/8 inch back from the raw edge of the armhole seam and with the front end of the pad matching the notch in the fronts.

3.8.12 Underarm shields. The jacket shall have shields at each underarm. The underarm shield shall be cut from the basic material and shall have 1/4-inch binding along the curved, outer edge. The binding shall be stitched to the underarm shield 1/16 inch from the folded edge of the binding. The underarm shield shall be sewn into the underarm sleeve joining seam and sewn to the lining along the bound edge. The finished underarm shields shall measure not less than 2 inches in length from the folded edge of the sleeve lining.

3.8.13 Armhole stays. The armholes and shoulder edges of the front shall have reinforcement stays. The top end of the armhole stays and over edge of the shoulder stays shall form a right angle at the armholes without the stays overlapping each other.

3.8.14 Front buttons. The jacket front shall have four 27-ligne insignia buttons. Two buttons shall be on the left and right front, in accordance with the marks on the pattern, and through all plies. The center of the top buttons shall be 1 inch back from the finished edge of the jacket front. The center of the bottom buttons shall be 7/8 inch back from the finished edge of the jacket front. The buttons shall be sewn with the eagle upright.

3.8.15 Hanger loop. The jacket shall have a hanger loop stitched into the neck of the jacket at the inside center back.

3.8.16 Inside breast pocket. The inside breast pocket shall be made of 2 plies of lining material 5 inches wide by 6-1/2 inches long. The ends of the pocket opening shall be back tacked.

3.8.17 Bottom hem. The bottom of the jacket outer shell shall be turned up 1-1/4 inches and blind stitched.

The lining shall be folded and basted approximately 1/2 inch from the bottom edge of the jacket. The lining turnup shall be felled to the bottom turnup.

3.9 Workmanship. The finished jacket shall conform to the quality and grade of product established by this specification. The finished jacket shall have all basting thread pulled and removed. All ends of stitching shall be trimmed, and all loose ends of thread shall be removed from the jacket. All spots, stains, shade tickets, and markings shall be removed without injury to the material. All stitching throughout the jacket shall be uniformly stitched. The jacket shall finish smooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers, pleats, or raw edges. Defects shall not exceed the established acceptance quality limits (AQL) (see 6.2) and shall not adversely affect the serviceability, appearance, and uniformity of the product.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article inspection. First article inspection shall be performed on finished jacket(s) when a first article sample is required (see 6.2). This inspection shall include the examinations and tests of 4.4.1 through 4.4.4.

4.2.1 First article sample and acceptance criteria. The first article sample size shall be as specified (see 6.2).

The sample unit shall be one finished jacket. The lot size shall be expressed in units of jackets. The presence of defects exceeding the AQLs (see 6.2), or failure of any testing shall be cause for rejection of the first article.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall include the examinations and tests of 4.4.1 through 4.4.4.

4.3.1 Component and material sampling and acceptance criteria. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), sampling shall be in accordance with table IX and table X. The unit for expressing the lot size and the sample unit for testing each component shall be in accordance with the applicable referenced publication and table X. The component lot may be unacceptable if one or more sample units fail to meet any examination or test requirements specified in this document.

TABLE IX. Material sampling.

Lot Size Sample Size (sample unit)

800 or fewer 2 801 through 22,000 3

22,001 or more 5

TABLE X. Component sampling.

Component Lot Size Expressed As Sample Unit for Testing

Lining and underarm shield binding Yards 3 yards full width Chest piece padding Yards 3 yards full width

4.3.2 End item sampling and acceptance criteria. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ASQ/ANSI Z1.4. The sample shall be one finished jacket. The lot size shall be expressed in units of jackets.

4.4 Inspection methods.

4.4.1 Testing of components. Testing of components shall be in accordance with the applicable subsidiary specifications and standards to the extent applicable, except that this specification shall govern in the event of conflict. Testing shall be performed on components listed in table XI for characteristics noted. Failure of one or more sample units to meet test requirements may be cause for rejection of the lot. Certificates of compliance specifying that components meet the requirements cited in section 3 may be accepted.

TABLE XI. Component verification.

Material Requirement Verification

Basic material 3.4.2 MIL-DTL-21115 Top collar material 3.4.3 MIL-DTL-21115 Lining 3.4.4 MIL-DTL-368 Fusible interlining 3.4.6 MIL-C-44296

Cloth, interfacing 3.4.5 A-A-52105

Wigan 3.4.7 A-A-59992

Flannel cloth 3.4.8 A-A-50067

Flannel cloth: alternate material 3.4.8 See table II

Shoulder pads 3.4.9 MIL-DTL-15064 Sleeve head pads 3.4.10 MIL-DTL-15064 Tape 3.4.11 A-A-52071 Hanger loop 3.4.12 MIL-DTL-371 Thread 3.4.13 See table III Buttons: insignia buttons 3.4.14 MIL-DTL-3461 Labels 3.4.15 MIL-DTL-32075

4.4.2 In-process examination. Visual and dimensional examinations shall be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to determine whether construction details that cannot be examined in the finished product are in accordance with the requirements specified in section 3. Materials and components that contain defects and damages as defined in the visual examination of 4.4.3.2 shall be removed from production. Any in-process nonconformance remaining in the finished jacket shall be classified as a defect in accordance with the visual examination of 4.4.3.

4.4.3 Visual examination. The jacket shall be examined for defects in color, design, material, construction, workmanship, and marking. The defects shall be classified in accordance with the list of defects specified in 4.4.3.2.

The inspection conditions shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order (see 6.2).

4.4.3.1 Model forms. The jacket sizes listed below shall be examined on the appropriate size model form in accordance with table XII.

TABLE XII. Model forms.

Jacket Size Model Form Size

Model Form Measurements (Inches)

Bust Waist Hip

X0, 2, 4 4 33 24 34 6, 8, 10 6 34 25 35 12, 14 12 37 28 38 16, 18 16 40 31 41 Tolerance ±1 ±1/2 ±1/2

4.4.3.2 Classification of defects. All defects shall be classified as indicated in table XIII. Any defect that affects appearance to an extent that it makes a jacket unserviceable as a dress jacket may be cause for rejection of the jacket.

TABLE XIII. Defects.

Examine Defect Classification

Major Minor

1. Pressing a. Burned, scorched, or area with shine or gloss X

b. Pressing omitted entire garment X

c. Poorly pressed (unless otherwise indicated) X

2. Material defects and damages

a. Any hole, cut, tear, smash, mend, burn, scorched area, shade marking, or open place:

(1) On outside X

(2) On inside, more than 1/4 inch X

b. Loose yarn, misweave, area of no dye penetration, dye streak, or woven in waste: more than 1/4 inch X

c. Permanent fold, pleat, or crease (not including creases that are part of the design) in the cloth (when caught in the seaming or stitching) on the outside

X

d. Visible needle hole(s) (no thread present) or needle chew (i.e., presence of scuffed or broken yarns caused by stitching):

(1) On outside:

(a) Up to 1/4 inch, inclusive X

(b) More than 1/4 inch X

(2) On inside, more than 1/2 inch X

e. Knot or slub on the outside which exceeds the limits specified in the material specification X

3. Shaded parts a. On outside:

(1) Variation in shade between two or more parts X

(2) Variation in shade within a part X

b. On inside:

(1) Any lining part shaded (except sleeve lining) X

4. Cleanness a. Any spot or stain clearly noticeable:

(1) On outside X

(2) On inside X

b. Two or more thread ends not trimmed throughout the garment, one or more bastings not removed, or two or more shade tickets not removed

X

c. Any residue of synthetic thread (when used) not brushed off or removed (see 3.4.13.1) X

5. Components and assembly

a. Any component part or required operation omitted (not herein classified) X

b. Any defective or incorrect component or defect of assembly (not herein classified) X

TABLE XIII. Defects – Continued.

Examine Defect Classification

Major Minor

6. Cutting a. Any component part not cut in accordance with the patterns or the specified requirements

X

b. Twill line of any outside part not running in specified direction X

7. Seams and stitching

a. Accuracy of seaming:

(1) Any seam twisted, gathered, puckered, or pleated X

(2) Part of the garment caught in any unrelated operation or stitching

X

(3) Hand felling or blind stitching exposed on the outside of the jacket

X

(4) End of any stitching (when not caught in other seams or stitching) not back tacked or backstitched as required

X

(5) Wrong shade of thread used on the inside of the jacket X

b. Irregular gage of stitching (edge, raise, and topstitching) beyond the range of width specified or varies more than 1/16 inch when no range is specified

X

c. Open seams (one or more broken stitches or two or more continuous skipped or run-off stitches constitute an open seam):

(1) On outside:

(a) Up to 1/2 inch, inclusive X

(b) More than 1/2 inch X

(2) On inside, more than 1/4 inch X

d. Needle perforations visible on outside X

e. Raw edges1/:

(1) On outside:

(a) Up to 1/4 inch, inclusive X

(b) More than 1/4 inch X

(2) On inside, more than 1/8 inch X

f. Loose stitch tension resulting in a loose seam (stitches grin) X

g. Loose stitch tension on raised, edge, or top stitching, resulting in loosely exposed bobbin or top thread

X

h. Tight stitch tension (stitches break when normal strain is applied) X

i. Stitches per inch less than minimum specified by2/:

(1) One to three stitches (except label stitching) X

(2) Four or more stitches (except label stitching) X

(3) One or more stitches on the label X

j. Incorrect stitch or seam type X

k. Stitching skipped or broken (on edge, raised or topstitching when seam is seamed, turned, and stitched) for 1/4 inch or more

X

l. Outer shell panel seams not pressed open X

m. Any curved panel seam stretched or distorted, affecting appearance

TABLE XIII. Defects – Continued.

Examine Defect Classification

Major Minor

9. Buttons a. One or more missing, loose, defective, or improper size or type3/ X

b. One or more buttons sewn with the head of the eagle in other than the upright position

c. Out of horizontal or vertical alignment by 3/16 inch or more X

d. Button stitching caught through the interlining (buttonhole stand) but not caught in the facing on one or more buttons

e. Button stitching not caught through the interlining (buttonhole stand) on 1 or more buttons

10. Fusible a. Omitted on any component part for which it is specified X

b. Twisted or causing puckers or pleats on any fused component X

c. Full, causing waviness on any fused component X

d. Any partial or complete delamination of any fused component X

e. Any strike through, bleed through, or color change X

f. Any resin transfer to the jacket:

(1) On any fused component X

(2) On any non-fused component X

11. Fronts a. Front edges stretched, affecting appearance X

b. Bottom edge stretched, puckered, or uneven, affecting appearance X

c. Bottom corners of the right and left fronts poorly shaped, affecting appearance

d. Front edge irregular, affecting appearance X

e. Length of right front at the corner shorter than the left front at the bottom by the following:

(1) More than 1/8 inch but not more than 1/4 inch X

(2) More than 1/4 inch X

f. Right front at the corner longer than the left front by the following:

(1) More than 1/8 inch but not more than 1/4 inch X

(2) More than 1/4 inch X

g. Fronts rolling outward below bottom button X

12. Front facing a. Short, tight, or twisted, causing fullness or twist on the fronts X

b. Facing full; lapel will not lie smooth and flat X

c. Facing exposed beyond front or bottom edge by more than 1/16 inch for a distance of more than 1 inch X

13. Eyelets a. One or more omitted or added X

b. Eyelet not securely caught in the fabric, causing the stitching to pull away from the fabric

c. Diameter of the inside opening less than 1/8 inch or more than 1/4 inch

d. Any eyelet uncut X

e. One or more broken or skipped stitches in the one or both eyelets X

TABLE XIII. Defects – Continued.

Examine Defect Classification

Major Minor

14. Collar construction

a. Interlining omitted X

b. Interlining tight or twisted, causing puckers on the collar X

c. Tight at one or more seams, causing puckers or pleats X

d. Center of the eyelet from the finished edge of the collar not as specified

f. Collar irregular in height by 3/16 inch or more X

g. Front finished ends of the collar uneven in length by 3/16 inch or more

h. Collar distorted, twisted, or crooked X

i. Gorge seam length is not uniform by 1/4 inch or more X

j. Undercollar exposed beyond collar edge by more than 1/16 inch or for a distance of more than 1 inch

k. Undercollar joining seamline exposed below edge of collar across back

l. Back end of gorge seam machine stitched less than 1 inch back of lapel break line

15. Lapel a. Gap between top edge of lapel and end of collar or overlap of collar end on lapel step on one side of jacket is not uniform with other side of jacket by:

(1) 1/8 inch up to 1/4 inch, inclusive X

(2) More than 1/4 X

b. Length of lapel step not within 1/4 inch from required length X

c. Bridle tape not held taut causing break line to finish flat or to be misplaced (i.e., tape extending beyond break line on lapel side)

d. Bridle tape misplaced by more than 3/8 inch behind lapel breakline X

e. Bridle tape basted onto or extending beyond break line on lapel side X

f. Bridle tape end not within 1 to 1-1/2 inches from bottom of lapel X

16. Shoulder construction

a. Improperly sewn, causing the shoulders or back to twist X

17. Shoulder pads a. Not completely caught in the armhole tacking X

b. Misplaced, not serving intended purpose (i.e., too far back or too far forward)

c. One or both pads omitted X

18. Shoulder straps a. Misplaced (i.e., one shoulder strap further forward or back from the position of the other strap affecting appearance) X

b. Shoulder strap stitched to the jacket too full or twisted, or stitched to the jacket too tight, causing fullness or twist on the front or back of the jacket

c. Poorly shaped X

d. Shoulder seam exposed beyond the back edge of the shoulder strap

(except the rounded end)

e. Width of the shoulder strap at the armhole seam less than 2-1/8 inches or more than 2-3/8 inches

TABLE XIII. Defects – Continued.

Examine Defect Classification

Major Minor

18. Shoulder straps (continued)

f. Width of the shoulder strap across the center of the insignia button less than 1-3/8 inches or more than 1-5/8 inches

g. Rounded end of the shoulder strap positioned less than 1/4 inch or more than 3/8 inch from the collar edge

h. Buttons not uniformly set from the collar edge by more than 1/4 inch

i. Ends of both shoulder straps unequally placed from finished edge neckline by more than 1/4 inch

j. Shoulder straps are not uniform in size or shape

(1) More than 3/8 inch with corresponding point on matching part X

(2) 1/4 inch up to 3/8 inch inclusive with corresponding point on matching part

19. Armholes (construction)

a. Stretched causing excessive fullness on back between shoulder and underarm

b. Taped too tight, causing puckering around the armhole seam, affecting appearance

c. Crooked seam X

d. Tape stitching exposed and visible on the outside of the jacket X

e. Sleeve head pads not completely tacked to the armholes or misplaced, not serving intended purpose

X

f. One or both sleeve head pads omitted X

g. Armhole not tacked completely or insecurely tacked X

20. Sleeves a. Setting and hang:

(1) Sleeve fullness misplaced, affecting appearance X

(2) Sleeve too far front (i.e., the front edge of the creased sleeve bottom more than 2 inches in front of the front/side front seam)

(3) Sleeve too far back (i.e., the front edge of the creased sleeve bottom less than exactly even going back from the front/side front seam)

(4) Hang of sleeves in opposite directions (i.e., one sleeve too far forward and one sleeve too far back, tolerance of 1-1/2 inches)

(5) Sleeve tight in the armhole (i.e., roll effect not present at the front or back of the sleeve)

b. Construction of sleeves: X

(1) Tacking on the bottom turnup to the sleeve interlining omitted or insecure

(2) Sleeve bottom edge uneven by more than 1/4 inch X

(3) Tacking on one or both sleeve lining seams to the sleeve seams omitted or insecure

(4) Bottom edge of the sleeve lining turnup less than 1 inch or more than 1-1/2 inches up from the bottom edge of the sleeve

TABLE XIII. Defects – Continued.

Examine Defect Classification

Major Minor s21. Sleeve lining a. Twisted, tight, or short, causing bulge, twist, or puckering on the outside of the sleeve X

b. Sleeve lining too long, causing the lining to sag at the bottom more than 1/2 inch

X

c. Sleeve lining seams out of alignment more than 3/8 inch with the sleeve seams at the armholes or at the bottom of the sleeve

X

22. Sleeve hem a. Full, tight, puckered, or twisted X

b. Not uniform in width by 1/4 inch or more X

c. Poorly shaped, affecting appearance X

23. Pointed cuff (type I only)

a. Point of cuff not uniformly shaped or not forced out to a sharp point.

X

b. Top edge of cuffs at back arm or underarm seamline staggered more than 1/8 inch

X

c. Finished height at point more than 5 inches or less than 4-1/2 inches

X

d. Finished height at front and back creased edges more than 3 inches or less than 2-1/2 inches

X

e. Set on crookedly, affecting appearance X

f. Misplaced (i.e., point of one piece further forward or back from the position of the other piece), affecting appearance

X

24. Fitting a. Body lining tight, short, or twisted, causing fullness or twist on outside of jacket

X

b.…