DRAFT MIL-DTL-18186F 01.23.25.pdf

NOTE: This draft, dated 23 January 2025, prepared by United States Marine Corps, has not been approved and is subject to modification. DO NOT USE PRIOR TO APPROVAL. (Project 8405-2025-005)

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to Marine Corps Systems Command, 2200 Lester Street, Quantico, VA 22134 ATTN: SEAL-SE-STDS or emailed to USMC_STDZ@usmc.mil. Since contact information can change, you may want to verify the currency of this address information using the ASSIST

Online database at https://assist.dla.mil.

AMSC N/A FSC 8405

Distribution Statement A. Approved for public release: distribution is unlimited.

MIL-DTL-18186F(MC)

DRAFT

SUPERSEDING

MIL-DTL-18186E(MC)

13 February 2017

DETAIL SPECIFICATION

CROWNS, SERVICE AND DRESS CAP

This specification is approved for use by the United States Marine Corps and is available for use by all

Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This specification covers removable service and dress cap crowns.

1.2 Classification. The service and dress cap crowns are of the following types and sizes as specified (see 6.2).

1.2.1 Types.

a. Type I – Microdenier polyester, twill, laminated, white 2414

b. Type II – (Wool Serge; Green) – DELETED

c. Type III – Polyester/wool gabardine, laminated, green 2212

1.2.2 Sizes. Service and dress cap crowns are of the following sizes:

Schedule of sizes in inches

6 6-1/2 7 7-1/2

6-1/8 6-5/8 7-1/8 7-5/8

6-1/4 6-3/4 7-1/4 7-3/4

6-3/8 6-7/8 7-3/8

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

INCH-POUND

mailto:USMC_STDZ@usmc.mil

DRAFT DATED 23 January 2025

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-Covered

A-A-52106 - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend

A-A-59963 - Thread, Polyester

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-10176 - Cloth, Gabardine: Wool, Polyester and Wool

MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS

MIL-STD-1394 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Cap Crowns

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS

AATCC EP9 - Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles

AATCC TM8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter

AATCC TM16.3 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Light: Xenon-Arc

AATCC TM20A - Test Method for Fiber Analysis: Quantitative

AATCC TM61 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated

AATCC TM128 - Wrinkle Recovery of Fabrics: Appearance Method

AATCC TM130 - Soil Release: Oily Stain Release Method

AATCC TM135 - Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering

AATCC TM193 - Aqueous Liquid Repellency: Water/Alcohol Solution Resistance Test

(Copies of these documents are available online at www.aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies of this document are available online at https://asq.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D1424 - Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling-Pendulum (Elmendorf-

Type) Apparatus

ASTM D3574 - Standard Test Methods for Flexible Cellular Materials–Slab, Bonded, and Molded

Urethane Foams

ASTM D3775 - Standard Test Method for End (Warp) and Pick (Filling) Count of Woven Fabrics

ASTM D3776 - Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric

ASTM D3990 - Standard Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects

ASTM D5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab

Test)

ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of these documents are available online at www.astm.org.)

https://quicksearch.dla.mil/ http://www.aatcc.org/ https://asq.org/ https://www.astm.org/

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Materials.

3.3.1 Type I.

3.3.1.1 Type I basic cloth. Type I basic cloth shall conform to the requirements specified in table I when tested as specified in 4.3.1. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or order (see 6.2), the shade shall be white shade

2414 and shall match the standard sample. The cloth shall be lightly brushed as to provide a face and back finish equal to that of the standard sample. The face of the cloth shall be marked “face” at both ends of each roll with letters not less than 1/2 inch in height. The marking shall be clearly legible using any indelible medium used commercially. Fabric edges shall not be rolled, folded, double scalloped, or wavy, and the fabric shall not be skewed, bowed, baggy, ridgy, or wavy.

TABLE I. Type I basic material requirements.

Material characteristic Material requirement

Weight, ounces/square yard 6 – 7

Fiber identification 100 percent polyester

Denier ≤1

Weave 2/2 right hand twill

Yarns per inch (minimum):

Warp 140

Filling 70

Breaking strength, pounds (minimum):

Warp 160

Filling 45

Elmendorf tear, pounds (minimum):

Warp 4.0

Filling 3.0

Dimensional stability, percent (maximum):

Warp 3.0

Filling 3.0

Colorfastness to (minimum):

Laundering (1 cycle) 4.0

Light, (40 hours or 170 Kilojoule) 4.0

Crocking 4.0

Wrinkle resistance, rating (minimum) 3.5

TABLE I. Type I basic material requirements – Continued.

Material characteristic Material requirement

Liquid repellency cycle I, temp. III (105 °F), tumble dry:

As received 6

1 wash 6

10 wash 5

20 wash 4

30 wash 4

Oil repellency cycle I, temp. III (105 °F), tumble dry:

As received 6

1 wash 5

10 wash 5

20 wash 4

30 wash 3

Soil release - mineral oil cycle I, temp. III (105 °F), tumble dry:

1 wash 3.5

10 wash 3.5

20 wash 3.5

30 wash 3.5

Soil release - corn oil cycle I, temp. III (105 °F), tumble dry:

1 wash 3.5

10 wash 3.5

20 wash 3.5

30 wash 3.5

3.3.1.2 Laminate for type I basic cloth. The type I basic cloth shall be laminated in order to improve the finished appearance of the crown. It shall be laminated by applying an interlock material to the basic cloth using a web adhesive. The interlock’s yarn size and type shall be 1/70/34, denier-textured polyester, and the finished laminate shall have a nominal weight per linear yard of 5.5 ounces. The web adhesive shall be a hot melt adhesive product in nonwoven form.

3.3.2 Type III.

3.3.2.1 Basic material for type III. The basic material for the type III crown shall be a gabardine, polyester/wool cloth, 10.6 ounces, green shade 2212, conforming to type II, class 12 of MIL-DTL-10176.

3.3.2.2 Laminate for type III basic cloth. The type III basic cloth shall be laminated in order to improve the finished appearance of the crown. It shall be laminated by flame bonding foam to the cloth. The polyester polyurethane foam shall conform to the physical properties in table II.

TABLE II. Polyester polyurethane foam requirements.

Physical property Requirement Test method

Density, pounds per cubic foot 1.08 – 1.32 ASTM D3574

Tensile strength, pounds per square inch (minimum) 15.0 ASTM D3574

Elongation, percent (minimum) 300 ASTM D3574

Tear resistance, pounds per linear inch (minimum) 3.0 ASTM D3574

Compression force deflection, pounds per square inch

(minimum)

25% deflection 0.3 ASTM D3574

50% deflection 0.3 ASTM D3574

Retention of tensile strength after 3 hours, 221 °F (105 ℃), steam autoclave, percent (minimum)

70 ASTM D3574

3.3.2.3 Lining for type III crown. The material for lining the type III crowns shall be a 100-percent polyester cloth conforming to class 3 of A-A-52106. The color of the lining shall be green shade 2209.

3.3.3 Thread. The thread shall be polyester thread, tex size 24, 3-ply conforming to type I, class 1 of

A-A-59963 and to the requirements specified in table III. As an alternate, polyester-covered cotton thread, tex size range 31-35, 2-ply, conforming to type II of A-A-50199 may be used. Thread for seaming, stitching, overedging, and making buttonholes shall be as specified in table III for each type crown.

TABLE III. Thread.

Operation Polyester Thread

Seaming, stitching Type I (inside and outside);

Type III (inside)

Left twist, tex size 24, 3-ply (needle and bobbin)

Overedge stitching Types I and III

Left twist, soft finish ticket No. 70, 2-ply (needle and bobbin)

Buttonholes Type I

Left twist, tex size 24, 3-ply (needle and bobbin)

3.3.3.1 Color and colorfastness. The color of the thread for type I crowns shall be white shade (bleached) cable number 66050, and the color of the thread for type III crowns shall be olive drab shade T-1, cable number 66023.

The colored threads, when tested in accordance with the applicable thread specification (see 3.3.3), shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning and to light.

3.3.4 Eyelets and washers. The eyelets and washers shall be brass (0.008+0.001 inch thick) and shall conform to the style and dimensions shown on figure 1. The entire eyelet or the flange only of the eyelet shall be enameled to closely match the shade of the basic cloth. The barrel of the eyelets shall be scored with 6 to 8 scores.

3.3.5 Labels. Each crown shall have a cloth combination identification-size label and a label/tag conforming to

3.3.5.1 and 3.3.5.2. Marking for intermediate packages shall conform to Error! Reference source not found..

3.3.5.1 Identification-size label. Each crown shall be provided with a combined identification-size label conforming to type VI, class 4 of MIL-DTL-32075, except the content shall include the name of supplier, and, in addition, the Wool Products Act information shall be included in the label for type III crowns. The name of the supplier shall be included in not less than 6-point font (characters sized approximately 1/16 inch). The label shall measure not less than 1-3/4 inches by 1-1/4 inches with a minimum 1/4-inch margin at the top for sewing. The label shall show fastness to laundering and dry cleaning. Instructions for laundering shall be included as indicated:

Type I Instruction Information:

MACHINE WASH WARM, PERMANENT PRESS CYCLE.

TUMBLE DRY, LOW SETTING.

REMOVE PROMPTLY.

DO NOT USE CHLORINE BLEACH.

Type III Instruction Information:

SPOT CLEAN ONLY.

DRY CLEANING NOT RECOMMENDED.

3.3.5.2 Label/tag. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The paper used for the tags shall be standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 100 pounds with a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a hole and shall be attached to each item by a fastener, clearly legible and readable by scanner. The bar-coding element shall be a 13-digit National Stock Number

(NSN). There shall be a 12-digit Universal Product Code (UPC) assigned for all NSNs by the government. The initial UPC shall appear beneath the code. The bar codes for the NSN and UPC shall be medium to high density and shall be located so that they are completely visible on the item when it is folded and packaged as specified. The label’s location shall cause no damage to the item.

3.4 Design. The crown shall be the Marine Corps design shown in figure 2 having a one-piece crown, two front and two back quarters, and a two-ply, one-piece headband. One buttonhole shall be at each side of the headband for attaching the crown to the cap frame. Buttonholes shall finish parallel to and 3/8±1/16 inch from the lower edge of the headband with the purling on the outside; the center of the buttonholes shall be 5-3/4±1/8 inches from the center of the crown. There shall be two metal eyelets on each side and one on the front; the front eyelet shall be centered on the front seam; the side eyelets shall be properly positioned from the side seam and the top and bottom edges of the quarters. The center of each side eyelet shall be 1±1/8 inch from its corresponding side seam and in horizontal alignment. The center of all eyelets shall be midway between the upper and lower edges of the quarters. All raw edges shall be overedge stitched, and the crown of type III fully lined. Both type I and type III crowns shall be laminated in order to improve the finished appearance of the cover. The crowns are designed to properly fit the cap frame and crown support with which they are intended to be used (see 6.1).

3.5 Patterns. When specified (see 6.2), standard patterns shall be furnished to the supplier by the Government.

Unless otherwise specified in this document, the standard patterns shall provide a 1/4-inch allowance for all seams.

Standard patterns shall show size, seam allowance, and direction lines for cutting, and the patterns are marked or notched for proper cutting, placement, and assembly of the component parts.

3.5.1 List of pattern parts. The crowns shall be cut from the materials specified herein in accordance with pattern parts as specified in table IV.

TABLE IV. List of pattern parts.

Material Pattern nomenclature No. of cut parts

Basic cloth laminate Quarters, front 2

Quarters, back 2

Crown 1

Headband 1

Cloth, polyester Lining, crown (type III only) 1

3.6 Construction. The crowns shall be manufactured in strict accordance with the operations, and the stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in table V.

3.6.1 Manufacturing requirements. The crowns shall be manufactured in accordance with the operations and the stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in table V.

3.6.1.1 Stitches, seams, and stitching. All stitching shall conform to ASTM D6193. The crowns shall be constructed in accordance with the stitch types and stitches per inch specified in table V. Whenever two or more stitch or seam types are specified for the same operation, any one of them may be used. Where stitch type 401 is used, the looper (underthread) shall be on the inside of the crown. The number of stitches per inch as specified in table V indicates the minimum and maximum number permitted. Overedge or serge stitching shall be done on serging machines with the knife attachment properly set to trim the raveled edge without cutting material.

TABLE V. Stitching.

Operation Stitch type Seam/stitch type Stitches per inch

Topstitch, single needle stitch, or straight stitch:

Construct headband: join ends SSa-1 12-16

Construct headband: fold in half lengthwise and join

OSf-1 12-16

Construct quarters: join at sides

Join quarters to crown

SSz-3 (a) 12-16

Construct quarters: topstitch

Topstitch quarters and crown

SSz-3 (b) 12-16

Topstitch quarters-headband seam LSg-2 12-16

Topstitch, single needle stitch, or straight stitch or

Single needle chain-stitch:

Attach lining to crown (type III only)

301 or 401

SSa-1 6-8

Single needle overedge seam or

Serge with double purl on edge

504 or 505 Efd-1 6-8

Safety-stitch:

Join headband to quarters

515 or 516 or 519 SSa-2 10-14

Buttonhole Buttonhole - 48 per buttonhole including tack

3.6.1.2 Tacking and backstitching. Ends of seams and stitching produced with 301 type stitch when not caught in other seams or stitching shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching the back of the break not less than 1/2 inch. When stitch type 401 is used, ends of seams and stitching shall be caught in other seams or stitching, and skipped stitches and thread breaks may be repaired using stitch type 301 back-stitched not less than 1/2 inch on each side of the skip or break.

3.6.2 Shade marking. The component parts of the crown shall be marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the crown. Any method of shade marking may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.

b. Adhesive-type tickets that show discoloration and the adhesive mass that adheres to the material upon removal of the tickets.

c. Any marking medium that would tend to leave a permanent mark.

3.7 Finished measurements. The finished crown shall conform to the measurements specified in table VI when measured in accordance with table VII.

TABLE VI. Finished measurements (in inches).

Size A:

Circumference

B:

Height of headband /

C:

Height of quarters at:

D:

Crown front to back

E:

Crown side to side Front Sides Back

6 20-7/8 1-11/16 2-3/8 2-1/4 2-1/8 9-3/8 9-1/8

6-1/8 21-1/4 1-11/16 2-3/8 2-1/4 2-1/8 9-5/8 9-3/8

6-1/4 21-5/8 1-11/16 2-3/8 2-1/4 2-1/8 9-3/4 9-1/2

6--3/8 22 1-11/16 2-3/8 2-1/4 2-1/8 10 9-3/4

6-1/2 22-3/8 1-11/16 2-3/8 2-1/4 2-1/8 10-1/8 9-7/8

6-5/8 22-3/4 1-11/16 2-3/8 2-1/4 2-1/8 10-1/4 10-1/8

6-3/4 23-1/8 1-11/16 2-3/8 2-1/4 2-1/8 10-1/2 10-1/4

6-7/8 23-1/2 1-11/16 2-3/8 2-1/4 2-1/8 10-5/8 10-3/8

7 23-7/8 1-11/16 2-3/8 2-1/4 2-1/8 10-7/8 10-5/8

7-1/8 24-1/4 1-11/16 2-3/8 2-1/4 2-1/8 11 10-3/4

7-1/4 24-5/8 1-11/16 2-3/8 2-1/4 2-1/8 11-1/8 11

7-3/8 25 1-11/16 2-3/8 2-1/4 2-1/8 11-3/8 11-1/8

7-1/2 25-3/8 1-11/16 2-3/8 2-1/4 2-1/8 11-1/2 11-3/8

7-5/8 25-3/4 1-11/16 2-3/8 2-1/4 2-1/8 11-3/4 11-1/2

7-3/4 26-1/8 1-11/16 2-3/8 2-1/4 2-1/8 11-7/8 11-5/8

Tolerance: ±1/4 ±1/16 ±1/8 ±1/8 ±1/8 ±1/8 ±1/8

TABLE VII. Methods of measurement.

Measurement Description Guidance

A: Circumference Measurement for crown circumference taken by laying the crown headband flat and measuring from folded edge to folded edge; this measurement is to be doubled when compared to the finished measurement requirement.

B: Height of headband Measurement for the height of the headband taken from the lower finished edge of the headband to the lower raised edge of the quarters.

C: Height of quarters at front, side and back

Measurement for the height of the quarters taken at the front, side, and back seams, respectively, from the lower raised edge of the quarters to the crown seam.

D: Crown front to back Measurement for the crown front to back taken beginning where the seam for the two front quarter pieces and crown intersect and ending where the seam for the two back quarter pieces and crown seam intersect.

E: Crown side to side Measurement for the crown side-to-side taken beginning where the seam for the front and back quarter pieces and crown intersect and ending on the opposite side where the adjacent front and back quarter pieces and crown intersect.

3.8 Fit. Each size crown shall properly fit the corresponding size cap frame and crown support for which it is intended (see 4.5.3.2 and 6.1). Crowns shall fit snugly without distorting either the headband of the frame or the crown wire of the support. Quarters shall have a smooth, rounded appearance without twisting, wrinkles, or other distortions. The crown shall lie smooth and flat without twisting, wrinkles, or other distortions. The headband of the crown shall extend down to the welt on the headband of the frame without stretching or wrinkling. Buttonholes shall properly engage with the posts on the frame without twists, wrinkles, or other distortions. The front eyelet of the crown shall center on the stay of the crown support. As an alternate method of measurement, the band circumference may be taken using a 10A gage by fitting the band on the gage, applying pressure past the normal alignment and then relaxing pressure until the alignment is correct at the mark, and reading the measurement.

3.9 Workmanship. The finished crown shall conform to the quality and grade of product established by this specification. It shall be free from any irregular defects that can adversely affect usage or durability, defects that adversely affect form, fit, or function, and those defects specified in 4.5.3.1. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the levels as specified (see 6.2).

3.10 Figures. Figure 1 specifies requirements for the crown’s components. Figure 2 is furnished for information purposes only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written specification and the figures, the written specification shall govern.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article inspection. When first article is required, inspection shall be made of a completely fabricated crown for conformance to all provisions of this specification (see 3.1). This inspection shall include conformance to the dimensions specified in 3.7 and the examination of defects specified in 4.5.3.1.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall include conformance to the dimensions specified in 3.7, the tests itemized as specified in 4.3.1, and the examination of defects specified in 4.5.3.1. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), sampling for inspection shall be performed conforming to

ASQ/ANSI Z1.4.

Each roll in the sample size shall be examined yard-by-yard. All defects found shall be counted regardless of their proximity to each other except where two or more defects represent a single local condition, in which case only the more serious defect shall be counted. The lot size shall be expressed in yards. The sample unit shall be

5 continuous yards full width finished cloth. The number of rolls from which the sample is to be selected shall be as specified in table VIII. For lots that contain fewer than three rolls, each roll in the lot shall be examined. All defects, as defined in ASTM D3990, that are clearly noticeable at normal inspection distance (3 feet), and the defects specified in 4.5.3.1 shall count as a defect.

TABLE VIII. Sample size.

Lot size (in yards) Sample size (in rolls)

1,200 or less 3

1,201 - 3,200 5

3,201 - 10,000 8

10,001 - 35,000 13

35,001 - 150,000 20

150,001 and over 32

4.3.1 Testing of materials and components. Components and materials shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced specifications, figures, and standards unless otherwise excluded, amended, or modified in this specification or applicable purchase document. In addition to testing provisions contained in subsidiary specifications, figures, and standards, testing shall be performed on components listed in table IX for characteristics noted. All test reports should contain individual values when expressing the final results (see 6.2).

TABLE IX. Test methods.

Components Characteristic Requirement paragraph Test method Results reported as

Type I basic material

Weight 3.3.1 ASTM D3776 Ounces/square yard

Fiber identification 3.3.1 AATCC TM20A Pass or fail

Weave 3.3.1 Visual 1/ Pass or fail

Yarns per inch

Warp

Filling

3.3.1 ASTM D3775 Minimum

Breaking strength, pounds

Warp

Filling

3.3.1 ASTM D5034 Pounds, minimum

Elmendorf tear

Warp

Filling

3.3.1 ASTM D1424 Pounds, minimum

Dimensional stability

Warp

Filling

3.3.1 AATCC TM135,

3 cycles

Percent, maximum

Colorfastness to:

Laundering (1 cycle), 2/

Light, (40 hours or 170

Kilojoule), 2/

Crocking 3/

3.3.1 AATCC TM61,

option 1A

AATCC TM16.3,

option A

AATCC TM8

Rating, minimum

Wrinkle Resistance 3.3.1 AATCC TM128 Rating, minimum

Liquid repellency cycle I, temp. III (105 °F), tumble dry:

As received

1 wash

10 wash

20 wash

30 wash

3.3.1 AATCC TM193 Rating, minimum

Oil repellency cycle I, temp III

(105 °F), tumble dry:

As received

1 wash

10 wash

20 wash

30 wash

3.3.1 AATCC TM130 Rating, minimum

TABLE IX. Test methods – Continued.

Components Characteristic Requirement paragraph Test method Results reported as

Type I basic material – continued

Soil release - mineral oil cycle I, temp. III (105 °F), tumble dry:

1 wash

10 wash

20 wash

30 wash

3.3.1 AATCC TM130 Rating, minimum

Soil release - corn oil cycle I, temp. III (105 °F), tumble dry:

1 wash

10 wash

20 wash

30 wash

3.3.1 AATCC TM130 Rating, minimum

Polyester polyurethane foam

Density 3.3.1.2 ASTM D3574 Pound/feet

Tensile strength 3.3.1.2 ASTM D3574 Pounds per square inch, minimum

Elongation 3.3.1.2 ASTM D3574 Percent, minimum

Tear resistance 3.3.1.2 ASTM D3574 Pounds per linear inch, minimum

Compression force deflection

25% deflection

50% deflection

3.3.1.2 ASTM D3574 Pounds per square

inch, minimum

Retention of tensile strength after 3 hours, 221 °F (105 °C), steam autoclave

3.3.1.2 ASTM D3574 Percent, minimum

Eyelets Material identification 3.3.4 Standard

Commercial

Pass or fail

Color (flange) 3.3.4 Visual Pass or fail

Scores 3.3.4 Visual Pass or fail

Washer Material identification 3.3.4 Standard

Commercial

Pass or fail

NOTES:

1/ One determination shall be made from each sample unit and the result reported as “pass or fail.”

2/ Rated using the AATCC gray scale for color change and AATCC gray scale for staining.

3/ Rated using the AATCC EP 9-step chromatic transference scale.

4.3.2 Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the crown shall match the standard sample when viewed using the AATCC EP 9, option C, (see 6.4) with a primary light source simulating the spectral quality of average daylight, CIE Illuminant D65, with a color temperature of 6500 (±200) Kelvin (K) illumination of 100 (±20) foot candles. Alternatively, the color and appearance of the crown shall match the standard sample with a primary light source simulating artificial daylight, CIE Illuminant D75, with a color temperature of 7500K (±200) illumination of 100 (±20) foot candles in lieu of D65 (see 6.4.1). The crown shall also be a good match to the standard sample with a secondary source simulating the spectral quality of incandescent lamplight, CIE Illuminant

A, with a color temperature of 2856K (±200).

4.4 Inspection conditions. Unless otherwise specified, all inspections shall be performed in accordance with test conditions specified in the applicable test method except where otherwise indicated in MIL-STD-1394.

4.5 Conformance inspection.

4.5.1 Component and material inspection. In accordance with 4.1, components and materials shall be tested in accordance with all requirements of reference specifications, figures, and standards unless otherwise excluded, amended, or modified in this specification or applicable purchase document. In addition to testing provisions contained in subsidiary specifications, figures, and standards, testing shall be performed on components listed in table IX for characteristics noted. All test reports should contain individual values when expressing the final results

(see 6.2).

4.5.2 Sampling for testing. Testing shall conform to the sampling provision tables cited in MIL-STD-1394.

4.5.3 Examination of the end item. Examination of the end item shall conform to the provisions of

MIL-STD-1394.

4.5.3.1 Defects. Defects shall be classified in accordance with table X.

TABLE X. Defects.

Examine Defect Classification

Major Minor

Material defects and workmanship 1/

Any hole or weakening defect, such as broken, missing, or loose yarn smash, multiple float, drill hole, or loose slub that may develop into a hole.

Tears, mend, burn, cut, or needle chew. 102

Abrasion resulting in a thin or weak area. 103

Uneven weaving or incorrect weave. 104

Pattern design not equal to the standard sample. 105

Incorrect color in any part or the pattern; pattern repeat not equal to the standard sample.

Multiple flats or skips, 1/2 inch or more in either warp or filling direction.

Shade Shade variation within a part or between parts. Thread color not as specified.

Dye streak; color not as specified. 109

Cleanness Any spot or stain clearly noticeable. 110

Objectionable odor. 201

Overall cleanliness including soiling, staining, or embedded matter.

Thread ends not trimmed, or loose thread ends not removed. 203

Components and assembly Any component or required operation omitted. 111

Any component not as specified. 112

Cutting Any component part not cut in accordance with specification requirements.

TABLE X. Defects – Continued.

Examine Defect Classification

Major Minor

Seams and stitching Accuracy of seaming:

Seams or topstitching twisted, puckered, pleated, not uniform, or otherwise distorted affecting appearance.

End of stitching (when not caught in other seam or stitching) backstitched less than 1/4 inch (6.4 millimeters

[mm]).

Stitching of thread breaks overlapping less than 1/2 inch

(13 mm) at each end of break.

Any component part caught in an unrelated operation or stitching.

Gage of stitching:

Unevenly gaged, affecting appearance. 207

Edge or raised stitching sewn too close to edge, resulting in damage to item.

Open seams. 2/

Less than 1/4 inch (6.4 mm). 208

1/4 inch (6.4 mm) up to 1/2 inch (13 mm) inclusive. 209

More than 1/2 inch (13 mm). 116

Raw edges. 3/ 117

Run-offs; edge or raised stitching (when not resulting in an open seam):

1/4 inch (6.4 mm) up to 1/2 inch (13 mm) inclusive. 210

More than 1/2 inch (13 mm). 211

Not specified seam or stitch type. 118

Loose tension resulting in a loose seam or exposed loose top or bottom thread.

Tight tension (stitches break when normal strain is applied to the lengthwise direction of seam or stitching). 4/

Stitches per inch (to be scored only when the condition exists on major portion of seam).

Headband Not finished smooth and flat. 120

Twists, pleats, puckers, or other distortion at back seam. 121

Not uniform in shape. 122

Edge stitching not uniform in width. 214

Joining seam of headband not in line with back seam of quarters.

Quarters Twists, pleats, puckers, or other distortion at seams. 123

Topstitching not uniform. 124

TABLE X. Defects – Continued.

Examine Defect Classification

Major Minor

Crown lining

(type III only)

Pleats, puckers, or distortions where the lining joins the crown. 216

Attachment of lining causing visible stitches on outside of finished crown.

Buttonholes Not clean cut and well made. 126

Not correctly positioned. 127

Stitching not securely caught in the fabric. 128

Not finishing parallel to and 3/8±1/16 inch from lower edge of headband with the purling on the outside.

Center of buttonholes not 5-3/4±1/8 inches from center of front crown.

Eyelets Not attached from the outside and securely clinched on the inside.

Attachment causing distortion of, or damage to, the crown or splitting the flange of the eyelet.

Front eyelet not centered on the front seam. 133

Side eyelets not properly positioned. Center of each side eyelet shall be 1±1/8 inch from its corresponding side seam.

The center of all eyelets shall be midway between the upper and lower edges of quarters. Side eyelets shall be in horizontal alignment.

Barcode labels/tags Bar code omitted or not readable by scanner. Human-readable interpretation omitted or illegible.

Bar code not visible on folded, packaged item. 218

Combined identification and size label not securely caught in stitching, or stitching through the printing.

Combined identification and size label missing, incorrect, or illegible.

Causes damage to the item. 136

NOTES:

1/ Material defects are to be classified as indicated only when the condition is one that definitely weakens the fabric or when it is so conspicuously located as to be clearly noticeable. Material defects that are inconspicuous and do not weaken the fabric shall not be classified as defects.

2/ A seam shall be classified as open when one or more stitches joining a seam are broken or when two or more continuous skipped or run-off stitches occur.

3/ Raw edges not securely caught in the stitching shall be classified as an open seam.

4/ Puckering is evidence of tight tension. When puckering is evident, the seam shall be tested by exerting pull in the lengthwise direction of seam or stitching.

4.5.3.2 Fit test. Crowns shall be fit tested against applicable cap frames in accordance with the schedule of crown sizes being purchased. The following selected (*) defects are applicable to crowns that improperly fit the corresponding size cap frame. When specified (see 6.2), sample cap frames required for this test may be obtained from the procurement activity or as directed by the contracting officer.

Head Size:

*Defect: Headband of the crown fitting the frame too loose, causing fullness (wrinkles) on band, or too tight, not permitting the crown to be fitted without distorting the headband of the frame.

Crown Size:

*Defect: Circumference of the top crown too small, not permitting the crown wire to lie smoothly, or distorting the crown or quarters, affecting appearance. Adjustable crown wires may be adjusted in where necessary.

*Defect: Circumference of the top crown too large, not providing a snug fit on the crown wire or distorting the quarters, affecting appearance. Adjustable crown wires may be adjusted where necessary.

4.5.4 Dimensional examination. The dimensional examination provisions for the finished crown shall be as listed in 3.7 and conform to MIL-STD-1394.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of materiel is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or

Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. This specification covers both white microdenier polyester twill dress cap crowns as well as polyester/wool gabardine service cap crowns intended for use with the dress and service cap frame and crown support conforming to MIL-DTL-20268. The referenced cap crowns and frames are intended for wear with Marine

Corps Dress and Service Uniforms.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number, and date of this specification.

b. Classification (see 1.2).

c. When first article is required (see 3.1).

d. Shade requirements, if other than specified in 3.3.1.1.

e. Requirements for intermediate packages (see Error! Reference source not found., Error! Reference source not found., and 6.3).

f. Patterns (see 3.5).

g. Acceptable quality levels (see 3.9).

h. Sampling for inspection (see 4.3).

i. Test report values (see 4.3.1 and 4.5.1).

j. Sample cap frames (see 4.5.3.2).

k. Packaging requirements (see Error! Reference source not found. and 5.1).

6.3 Intermediate packaging. When specified (see 6.2), a white paper label with the following information legibly printed or stamped thereon in black should be inserted within each polyethylene bag in order to permit ready identification:

Nomenclature

Size__________ Stock number__________

Contract number

Contractor

6.4 Visual shade matching. In 2017, Option A of AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Visual Assessment of Color

Difference of Textiles, was changed to Option C. NOTE: In case of confusion, the viewing geometry should be

“The specimen plane and illumination source will be parallel to each other and aligned so that the light flux is incident at the center of the specimen plane, which is set at a 35 (± 5°) angle relative to the horizontal. The observer will view the specimens at a 90° angle, relative to the plane of the specimens”.

6.4.1 Use of D65 light source. In 2022, the U.S. Military (all Services) accepted D65 as the new preferred light source for visual shade matching due to the supply chain issues with D75. DD1222s should reflect which light source is used. If the light source is not indicated on the DD1222, D65 will be assumed by the Government shade laboratory.

6.5 Subject term (key word) listing.

Enlisted

Frame

Officer

6.6 Changes from previous issue. Marginal notations are not used in this revision to identify changes with respect to the previous issue due to the extent of the changes.

(All measurements are in inches)

NOTE: Measurements provided in this figure are for information only. Actual requirements are as stated in the spec wording.

FIGURE 1. Eyelet and washer.

NOTE: Measurements provided in this figure are for information only. Actual requirements are as stated in the spec wording.

FIGURE 2. Front and inside lining (type III only) views.

FIGURE 3. Finished measurement instructions.

CONCLUDING MATERIAL

Custodian: Preparing activity:

Navy – MC Navy – MC

(Project 8405-2025-005)

Review activity:

DLA – CT

NOTE: The activities listed above were interested in this document as of the date of this document. Since organizations and responsibilities can change, you should verify the currency of the information above using the

ASSIST Online database at https://assist.dla.mil.

https://assist.dla.mil/