ASTM D7020 05.pdf

Designation: D 7020 - 05

INTERNATION~L --

Standard Performance Specification for Woven Blouse, Dress, Dress Shirt & Sport Shirt Fabrics1

This stantlard is isaued under tlie lixetl designation D 7020; the nu~nbcr irnn~cdialely following tile dcsig~~oticln indicates the year of original adoption or. in 111s case of revision. tlie year of last revision. A number in parentheses indica~es the year of last reapproval. A superscript epsilon (E) indicates an editorial chamye since the lust revision or rrapprovnl.

.1. Scope

1.1 This performance specification covers fabrics for woven

blouses, dresses, dress shirts, and sport shirts.

1.2 This perfomiance specification is not applicable to

woven fabrics used for interlinings.

1.3 These requirements apply to the length and width

directions for those properties where fabric direction is perti-nent.

1.4 When a fabric requires special treatment, specific meth-

ods will be described as they are developed for that material.

and such special tests will have precedence ovcr these general requirements.

1.5 The following precautionary caveat pertains only to the

test methods described in this pcrformancc specification: Tllis stunrlrrrd mtr): irzvolw hr~:ur(/ous nurerials, opt~rafiorls. urld eqr4ij)manf. This .\/undnrd does not pu~port to uddress all of rhr sqfeo concrrris, jf any r~ssociuted with its U S P . 11 is the rrsl)on.vihili/y og'user of this srunhrd lo establish uppropt-iote suj'rw und hcr~/l/l prr~cticrs. urld determine the applic.uhilip of regiiloloy 1irnirrrtion.v prior 10 use.

2. Referenced Docmnents (See Noic I )

2.1 itS7'M Star~~lu~'rI~s:

D 1 23 Terminology Relating to Textiles 1.:) 331. Test Metliocl for Resistance to Slippage of Yam in

Wove11 Fabrics Using a Standard Seam [:) 1312 T e s ~ Method for Tear Resistance of Woven Fabrics by Falling Pcndulu~n (Elmendorn Apparatus D 1682 Test iMethods for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics r> 2261 Test Melhocl for Tearing Strength of Woven Fabrics by the Tonguc (Single Rip) Method (Constant-Rate-of Extension Tcnsile 'Testing Machine)

1) 5U3...? Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)

I 1 71.F' Terminology Relating to Apparel

2.2 MTCC Methods:,'

S Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method 15 Colorfa$tness to Perspiration 16 Colorfastness to Light 23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes 6 1 Colorfastness to Laundering, Home and Commercial:

Accelerated I 16 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rot'uy Vertical Crockmeter

Method

12.1. Appearaice of Fabrics After Repeated Home Launder-

i n g ~ 131 Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning

1.5 Din~ensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Launtier-

ing I5X 1)imensional Changes on 'Drycleaning in Perchloroeth-ylene: Machinc Method 172 ColorPastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach in 1.lome Laun-iie~ing I X X Colorfastness to Sodium tlypochlor.i te Bleach in I-lome

Laundering

2.3 fidrral Strrrrd~lrrls:~ 16 Cf::l< I hl i! Fla~n~nnble Fabrics Act Regulatio~is

NOTE I-Reference to resl rnerhods in this standard give only the pennnncnt pall of the designation of ASTM. XXTCC or other t a t methods. The current edition of each test method cited shall prcvail.

3. Terminology ,

3.1 For definitions of textile terms used in this specification, refer to the Terminolopies [:> 12.3 and 1:) 70?2. For terms relating to chemical and colorfastness testing refer to specific AATCC methods.

3.2 Definitions found in a dictionary of common terms 'are

suitable for terms found in this specification.

4. Significance and Use

4.1 Fabrics intended fbr this end-use should meet all of the

requirements listed in 'Lihli: 1 .

'This speciticaio~t is u~~tlrr the jurisdictioi~ of ASTM Con~~nittec Dl3 on Textiles and is thc tlireci ~.tupn~isihilily I I C Subcommittee Dl?.hl on App:iwl.

Current rdition approved July I , 2005. Published Au:.ust 1lX)5.

For reiere~iced ASTM sr~md:irtls, visit the ASTM uvbsi~e, u.ww.actm.o~g. or "vailable from ~\mt:ric:~n ~\ssvci:~~ion of Textile Chemists and Colorisls. P.O.

contact ASThl Cusic~mer Sel.vice at servict'(@nstln.org. FOI. t\~mrrrrl / look r,lA.Sr~\l Box 122 15. Reseaich Triar~gle Perk. NC 27709.

Strmd(r~d.~ volu~iie init>rm:~tit,~i, refer to the stu~~dard's C ) ~ ) C U I I I ~ I I I Sumn~ilry page on Arailahle fion~ Supcri~~tt'ntlcnt of l>c)ci~ments. Government Pri~~tinf Ollice.

the ASIM wzl~site. ~':~sIiin$ln~i. IIC 20402.

Copyrighl OASTM Inlernalianal. 100 Barr Harbor Drive. PO Box C700. West Conrhohocken. PA 19428-2959. Unlled Slates.

Copyright by ASTM Int'l (all rights reserved); Thu Aug 14 10:53:32 EDT 2008 Downloadedlprinted by Tammy Perkins (UNICOR) pursuant to License Agreement. No further reproductions authorized.

TABLE 1 Performance Requirements for Woven Blouse, Dress, Dress Shirt & Sport Shirt Fabrics

Characteristic -.

Minimum Requirements Section -.

Blouse & Dress Fabrics Shirt Fabrics

Sheer Fabrics Non-sheer Fabrics Dress Shirt Fabrics Sports Shin Fabrics

Breaklng Strength (CRE)." 67N (15 Ibf) 111N (25 Ibl) 111N (25 ibl) 111N (25 Ibf) 5.7 Resistance to Yarn Slippage: 45N (10 Ibf) 67N (15 Ibl) 67N (1 5 Ibf) 89N (20 Ibf) 5.2 6mm. ('14 in.) separation Tearing Strengthe 4.5N 1.0 (Ibl) 6.7 (1.5 Ibl) 6.7 (1.5 Ibf) 6.7 (1.5 Ibf) 5 3 Dimensional change:

Pressing 2.0 %. maximum 54.?

After 5 launderings 3.0 %, maxlmum 5.4.2 ARer 3 dry cleanings 2.0 %, maximum 5.4.3

Colorfastness to:

Laundering: 5.5.1

Shade change Grade 4 Staining Grade 3

Dry cleaning 5.5.2 Shade Change Grade 4

Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach 5.5.3 Shade Change Grade 4

. Non-Chlorine Bleach 5.5.3 Shade Change Grade 4

Burnt gas fumes 5.5.4 Shade change (1 cycle each Grade 4 original 8 alter 1 cleanlng)

Crocking 5 $5 Dry Grade 4 Wet Grade 3

Perspiration 6 5.6 Shade change Grade 4 Staining Grade 3

Light (Xenon-arc) Grade 4 5.5.7 20 AATCC lading units

Fabric Appearance SA 3.5 5 8 Flammability -16 CFR 1610 Class 1 5. '.?

"There is more than one method that can be used to measure breaking strength tearing slrength and colorfastness. These methods cannot be used interchangeably since there may be no overall correlation between them (see Note 2, Uc!e 3, and Noie 5).

4.2 It should be recognized that fabrics can be produced

lttilizing an alniost inlinite nunibcr ol' combinations of con-struction variables (e.g., type of fibers. percentage of fibers, yarn twist, yo111 n~lrnbcr: warp and pick count, chemical and mechanical finishes). Additiotially. fashion or aesthetics dictate that the ultimate consumer may lind acceptable articlcs rnade from fabrics that do not conform to all of the requirements in Table I .

4.2.1 Hence, no single performance specification can possi-

bly apply to all the various fabrics thztt could be utilized for this end-use.

4.3 Thc uscs and signilicancc of' particular properties and

test methods ate discussed in the appropriate sections of the spccificd tcst mcthods.

5. Test Methods (see 10'' 1 )

5.1 Brenkin,? Srretzgrh-Dctcr~nilic the breitkillg strength as directed in Test Melhod 1 ) -iO.i:, using 3 constant rate of extension (CKE) tcnsilc tcstiilg machine.

Nol.r: 2-If preferred, the use ol' it consrnril r:lrc of' navcrse (CRT) [ensile testi~~g machine is permitted. l't1c1.c 111ay he no overall correlation between the results ohteined with rhe CRT nliichir~e and the CRE machine.

Consequently. these two breaking force rcs~e~.s can no! be used inter-changeably. 111 case of ccmlroversy, the CRE mcthod (Test Method 1': 5 i i i d ) shall pmvail.

5.2 lie.sisrunc e to Yur.11 .Ylil)r)~~ge-Dctcr~niiie the resistance to ya rn slippage as dircctccl in Tcst Method I ) 2 ; i.

5.3 Tearing Strc~iz~rh-Determine the tearing strength as

directed in Tcst Method 1) 1 tI!'.l.

NOTE 3-lf preferred. use of Test Metlrod 3 2261 is permitted with existing requirements as given in this standard. Tliere may be no overall correlation between the lasults obtained with the tongue tear niethod (Test Method 1) 2761) and the Elmc~~dnrf machine (I) iJ24). Consequently.

these rwo tear testers cannot be used interchangeably. In the case of controversy, Tcst Method I ? II:!-1 shall prevail.

5.4 Dirnensioi~al Clzarrge:

5.3.1 P r e s s i n ~ a i d Finishing During Gorntenr

Monufai-rrrring-Determitle the dimcnsiollal cl~ange during pressing and finishing as directed in AATCC Method 135.

5.4.2 La~rr~deting-Detcrtnine the diniensional change after

1aundel.in.g as directed in the applicable procedure in AATCC test Metliod i 35.

5.4.3 D~cluur~ing-Deter~nine the dimensional change aC

tcr dryclcaning as dircctcd in AATCC Test Method I .is.

Nola 4-Lm~nderable fabrics are expected normnlly to be dryclea~~ed.

except whcre a11 or part of the fabric will not wirhstand drycleanins. For exiimple, the fabric could contain a functional finish soluble in the solvent.

or the fiber could be dcpraded by the solvent. which would be [he case with poly (vinyl chloride) fiher. If a Fabric would be harmed by ALL.

methods of care except for drycleaning. i t should be corisidered Dryclean only.

5.5 Colorfhsttzess:

5.5.1 1~iundt.rinp-Deternine the cololfastncss to launder-ing as clirec~ed in AATCC Method 61.

Copyright by ASTM Int'l (all rights reserved); Thu Aug 14 10:53:32 EDT 2008 Downloaded/printed by Tamrny Perkins (UNICOR) pursuant to License Agreement. No further reproductions authorized.

5.5.2 I>ycleclning-Detertnine the colorfastness to dry-

cleirning as directed in AATCC PIllethod i .'?.

5.5.3 Hleuc.hing-When lestitlg with bleach is indicated.

test as directed in AATCC Test Method Is? for non-chlorine bleach or AATCC Test Method i Sf; for sodium hypochlorite bleach, as appropriate.

5.5.4 Rrtrnf Grrs F1dnie.s-De~etmine the colorfastness to

burnt gas funies on the original fabric andafter one launtlering or one drycleaning as direc~ed in AATCC Method 7 : . Washing or drycleaning conditions shall be as for dimensional change LesLing.

5.5.5 Crocking-Determine the colorfastness to dry and wet

crocking as directed in AATCC jMethod S for solid shades or AATCC Method 1 I0 for prints.

5.5.6 Pe~spirurion-Determine the colorfastness to perspi-

ration as directed in AATCC ~Metliod ! .i.

5.5.7 Light-Detetmine the colotfastness to light as di-

rected in AATCC Method If!.

rhe various types of machines listed in AATCC Test h.lethod I!>, with no overell correlarion between then). Consequently, thwe mnchina cannot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy, rcsul~s obtained with the water cooled xanon nrc ninchine listed in Option E shall prevail.

5.6 Fuh1.i~ App~(~rur~~(!-Deterrnine the fabric snloothness

appearance (SA) as directed in AATCC Mcthod I.?.-:!. irfter the applicable laundering or dtycleaning procedure.

5.6.1 For fabrics not intended for use in durable press

garments, detetniine the snloothness appearance after pressing as specitied in AATCC Test A4ethod i 35.

5.6.1.1 The smoothness appearance rating of such fabrics

shall have decreased no more that '/2 SA rating from that of the fabric before it is laundered or drycleaned.

5.7 Flrmtn~~bility-The flan~n~abili ty test and requirements

shall meet or exceed the Flamniable Fabrics Act mandatory standards as specified in I h CFR 16!0.

6. Keywords

Norn 5-There are distinct differences in spccrral distribution berween 6.1 blouse: dress; dress shirt: sport shirt.

ASTM International takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection wilh any item mentioned in this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the risk of infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility

Thls standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible lechnical committee and musl be reviewed every live years and if not revised, either reapproved or withdrawn. Your comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional standards and should be addressed to ASTM International Headquarleffi. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeling of the responsible technical committee, which you may anend. If you feel that your cornments have not received a fair hearing you should make your views known to the ASTM Comnlinee on Standards, at the address shown below

This standard is copyrighted by ASTM Intematronal, 100 Bar Harbor Drive, PO Box C7W. West Conshohocken. PA 19428-2959, United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may .be obtained by contacting ASTM at the above address or at 610-832-9585 (phone). 610-832-9555 (fax), or service@astm.org (e-mail): or through the ASTM website (www.astm.orgl.

Copyright by ASTM Int'l (all rights resewed); Thu Aug 14 10:53:32 EDT 2008 Downloadedlprinted by Tammy Perkins (UNICOR) pursuant to License Agreement. No further reproductions authorized.