ASTM D3780 02.pdf

&k Designation: D 3780 - 02

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Standard Performance Specification for Men's and Boys' Woven Dress Suit Fabrics and Woven Sportswear Jacket, Slack, and Trouser Fabrics'

This srandartl is issued under tlie fixcd tlesignation D 3780: the number immetliately following the desi&m:ition indicates the year o f original odoption or. in the case o f revision. tlle year of last rcvisioi~. A number ill parentheses indicates the year o f last rcappn>val. A superscript epsilon ( E ) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapprovnl.

1. Scope

1.1 This performance specification covers men's and boys'

woven drcss suit fabrics and woven sportswear jackct, slack.

and trouser fabrics composed of any textile iibcr or mixture of textile fibers.

1.2 This pcrformance specification is not applicable to

woven fabrics used for interlinings.

1.3 These requirements apply to the lcngth and width

directions for those properties where fabric direction is perti-nent.

1.4 The following safety hazards caveat pertains only to thc

test method describetl in this s~ecifi cation. This staildurd does not yu)po~-l to udrlre,~.r (111 of {he s[rfi?(v co1zcern.r. if'ar~j:

ussoc:iart?d with its use. It is rlre rt?sporwibilip of !he usel of /Itis srrrnda1rl to e.vtohlish uppropriare snjetv aizd heirl~li pr(rc!ice.v and derei.tni~re rhe applicnhilip of r~'g.11latop~ litnirutiolrs prior lo use.

2. Referenced Docun~er~ts

2.1 ASTM Stc~nc/a?.cf.v:

D 123 Termiliology Relating to Textiles D 434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns in

Woven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam D 1424 Test Method for Tear Resistance of Woven Fabrics by Falling-Pendulum (Elinendorf) Apparatus D 2261 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Woven Fabrics by the Tongue (Singlc Rip) Method (Constant-Rate-of- Extension Tensile Testing Machine)

D 2262 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Woven Fabrics by the Tongue (Single Kip) Method (C:onstaut Rate-of- Traverse Tensile Testing Machine)

D 2724 Tcst Methotls for Bonded. Fused, and Laminated Apparel Fabrics

D 2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimens for Textiles

D 5034 Test Method for Breaking Force and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)

2.2 AATCC Tesr hle~hods:'

8 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method 15 Colorfastness to Perspiration 16 Colorfastness to Light 23 Colorfastness to Bu~nt Gas Fumes 61 Colorfastness to Washing, Domestic, and Laundering, Commercial: Accelerated 96 Dimensional Changes in Laundering of Woven and

Knitted Textiles Except Wool 11 6 Colorfast~less to crocking: Rotary Vertical Crockmeter

Method 119 Color Change Due to Flat Abrasion (Frosting): Screcn

Wire Metliod 124 Appearance of 'Durable Press Fabrics After Rcpcated

Home Laundering 132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning 135 Dimensional C.'hanges in Automatic Home L.aunderin_e of Durable Press Woven or Knit Fabrics 172 Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach in Home Laun-dering 188 Clorfastness to Chlorine Bleach in Home Laiindering Evaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color Change Evaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for Staining Evaluation Procedure 3 AATCC Chromatic Transference

Scale

2.3 17edernl Slaildurd~:- 16 CFR 1610 Standard for Flammability of Clothing Tex-tiles4 16 CFR. Chapter ~l -konsun~er Product Safety Commis-sion, Subchapter D-Flammable Fabrics Act Regulations"

2.4 Afilitcm: Slnndu1.d:

MIL-STD-lO5D Sampling Procedures and Tables for In-spection by Attributes5

NOTE I-Reference to test methods in this specification gives only the

' This specificntion is under the jurisdiction o f ASTM Committee Dl3 on Textiles and is the dircct rcsponsibiliry o f Sobcornmitree C)l?.(.l on App:irel.

Currenl etlition approvet1 Jon. 10, 2002. Published April 2002. Originnlly ' Available froin the American Assc!ciation of Textile Che~nists and C;olorists.

published as D 3780 --70. Last previous edition D 3780 . - 9Su. P.13. Uox 122 1 5, Reseurclr Triangle Park. NC 27700.

' For referenced ASTM stand:irtls, visit rhe ASTM uaebsite. urww.asm.org. or "Available from Superintendent o f I>oct~menrs. U.S. Ciovemment I'rinting contact ASTM Customr'r Service a1 servicei~~asoll.org. For .4>11lrrcrl Rook (!/AST:U OOce. Washington. DC 20402.

S r r r ~ ~ d r r r h volume information. rekr to the rtnntlmd's Docunietit Summary page on Aroilshle turn Standttrdimtiun I>ocuriie~lts Ortler Desk. Hldg. 4 Section D. 700 the ASTM website. Kobbins Avc.. Pliiladelptria. I'h 1911 1-5094, httn: NPODS.

Copyrighl QASTM International. 100 Barr Harbor Dnvc. PO Box C700. West Conshohockon. IJA 194282959. Unilod Slntos

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permanent pnrt o f the designation ot' ASTM, .r\:2TC'C. or other test niethods. The current editions o f e:lch tesl method cited shall prevail.

3. Te~.minology

3.1 Definitions-For definitions of tcxtilc terms used in this specification, refer to the itldividual AS'IM and AATCC test methods and to Temminolo:.y D 123. Definitions found in a dictionary of common terins are suitable for telms used in this specification.

3.2 Dejinirions of Terms .Specific; to 7hi.s Stctndurd:

3.2.1 pressing ond,fittishirlg-this tenn takes into account all of the industrial pressing and finishing treatments used i n gartnent production.

5. Significance and Use

5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser'and the

supplier. woven fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of tlie requirements listed in Table I of this specification.

5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aesthetics the ultimate consu~ner of articles made from these fabrics may find acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of the requirements in Table 1. Therefore,. one or Inore of the requirements listed in Table 1 may be modified by mutual agreement between the purchaser and the supplier.

5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shall s~ec i fv that: This fabric meets S~ecification D 3780 e x c e ~ t for

No~.F 2--No standard test method is available fix reproducing on a laborator). level the results o f industrial press or finish treatments, or both, used in the mnnufncntre of woven outenvear gannenh."

the following characte~istic(s).

5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has beet1 reached

behveen the purchaser and the supplier. and in case of controversy, the requirements listed in Table I are intended to be used as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultitnate consumer demands dictate varying performance parameters for any

4. Specification Requirements

4.1 Thc properties of fabrics for mcn's and boys' woven

dress suits ancl woven sportswcar jackets, slacks, and trousers shall conform to the specification reqilire~t~cnts in Table 1.

"The development o f a standnrtl test methixl h:ls been rcferrctl to Subcommirtec D13.59 011 Fabric Test Methods. C;rnrr~l.

particular style of fabric.

5.4 The significance and use of particular properties and test methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of the specified test methods.

TABLE 1 Specification Requirements

Ncrrc I-<lass in a. b, c, and DP rating is hascd on a m~nierical scnlc o f 5 for negligible or no color change. color h-dnsfer, or wrinkle to 1 for severc color change, color transfer, or wrinkle. The nun~erical rating in Table I or a higher numerical rating is acceptablc.

Characteristic Requirements

Section Suit. Slack. Trouser Jacket

Breaking strength (load) (CRT).

Worsted count yarns Cotton count yarns Woolen run yams

Yarn sl~ppage

178 N (40 Ibf), min 178 N (40 Ibf), min 133 N (30 Ibf), rnin 6.3-mm (%-in.) separation at

111 N (25 Ibf), min 11 N (2.5 Ibf). rnin

133 N (30 Ibf), rnin 133 N (30 Ibf), min 111 N (25 Ibf), min 89 N (20 IbQ, rnin

Tear strength Dimensional Change:

Pressing and finishing (in each direction) Aller Rve launderings (in each direction) After three dry cleanings (in each atrection)

Colorfaslness:

Burnt gas fumes-2 cycles:

Shade change, original fabric Shade change after one laundering or one dry cleaning Chlorine Bleach Non-Chlorine Bleach

Laundering:

Shade change Staining

Dry cleaning:

Shade change

Crocking:

D r~ Wet

Perspiralion:

Shade change Staining

Light (40 AATCC FU) (xenon-arc) Frosting

Fabric appearance (See 7.6.1.1) Flammabililv

2 % max 3 % max 2 % max

2 % max 3 % max 2 O/O max

Class 4A rnin Class 4" min Class 4* min Class 4" min

Class 4A min Class 4" rnin Class 4A rnin Class 4* rnin

Class 4A min Class 38 rnin

Class 4" min Class 3' min

Class 4* min Class 4" min

Class 4" min Class 3C min

Class 4" min Class 3C hin

Class 4* min Class 3' min Step 4A rnin Class 4A rnin DP 3.5D min Class 1 or Class 2

Class 4* min Class 3R min Step 4* min Ciass 4" rnin DP 3.5D min Class 1 or Class 2

" AATCC Gray Scale for Color Chango.

' AATCC Gray Scale for Staining.

CAATCC Chromatic Transference Scale.

For durable-press fabrics only.

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6. Sampling

6. l .4ccel)rur1ce Testing Lor-Unless there is prior agree-ment, consider as a lot for acceptance testing all material of a single item received as a single shipmcnt.

6.2 Lor Sum~~ke-As a lot sample for acceptance testing, take at random the nun~ber of rolls as directed in'an applicable specification or other agreement between tlie ,purchaser and the supplier, such as an agreement to use MIL-STD- I O5D.

6.3 Loborutoty Sample-Frotn each roll or piece in the lot

sample, cut two laboratory samples the fill1 wiclth of the fabric and at least 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage.

6.4 Test Specimens-Take the number of speciinens di-

rected in each of the applicable test methods. Perform the tests on the fabric as it will reach the customer. Any "partially finished" or "post-finished fabrics should be processed in accordance with the fabric manufacturer's instructions.

6.5 If the applicable test method does not specify the

number of specimens, use the procedures in Practicc D '905 to determine the nutnber of specimens per laboratory sampling unit. 'Use ( I ) a reliable estimate of the variability of individual observations on similar materials in the user's laboratory. (2) a 95 % probability level, and ( 3) an allowi~ble difference of 5 O/o of the average between the. test results on laboratory sampling units and the average for the laboratory si~mpling unit. The average for a laboratory sampling unit is the average that would be obtained by applying the test incthod to all of the potential specimens frotn that laboratory sampling unit.

7. Test Method (See Note 1)

7.1 Breaking Force-Determine the dry breaking force, in

the standard atinospherc for testing textiles, as dirccicd in Test Method D 5034, using a constant rate of traverse (CRT) tensile testing machine with thc speed of the pulling clamp at 300 2

10 mm (1 2 5 0.5 in.)/min.

NOTE .$-If preferred, the use of a constant-rate-of-extension ICRE) tensile testing machine is pennifled. The crosshead speed shonld be as agreed upon behvecn the purcliascr and the supplier. There may be no overall correlation between the results obtained with the CRT machine and with the CRE machine. Consequently, these two breaking load testers cannot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy, the CRT method shall prevail.

7.2 Resist(mcc. to krn Slippage-Delein~ine the resistance

to yam slippage as directed in Tcst Method D 434.

NOTK ?.----The precision ofTest Method D 434 has not been est:iblished, and it may not be suitable for fabrics with low yarn counts.

7.3 lkur Strength-Determine the tongue tear strength as directed in Test Method D 1423.

cycles, temperature. steam, vacuum, and mechanical pressure of the press head. Measure the speciinen(s) and calculate the dimensional change as directed in Section 5 of AATCC Test Method 135 (see Note 2).

7.4.1.1 If no agreement has been made between the pur-

chaser and the suppliel: press the specimen(s) using a flat-bed steam press as follows:

(Ij Five seconds steatn with head up.

(2) Five seconds dry hot press with head down 293 to

303OF (145 to 15 1°C) at the press.

(3) Five seconds vacuum, steam off, head down.

(4) Five seconds vacuum, steam off, head up.

7.4.2 Lmindering-Deternline the maximum dimensional

change after five launderings as directed in the applicable procedure in PLATCC Test Method 135 (Note 6).

7.4.2.1 The wash conditions and drying procedure shall be

as specified by the supplier.

7.4.3 Dty Cleaning-Determine the maximum ditnensio~ial

change after three dry cleanings as directed in Test Methods D 2724.

NOTE 6-Spccimcns prepared for 7.4.1 nlay be used for 7.4.2 and 7.4.3 its desired. When this is done, subtract the pressing and finishing dimensional change from the total dimensional change to obtain that portion due to laundering or dry cleaning. The dimensional change to pressing and finishing is determined on the fnbric as it will reach the user.

7.5.1 Burnt Gos Fumes-Determine the colorfastness to

bumt gas fumes on the original fabric and aftcr one laundering or one dry cleaning as directed in AA'rCC -lest Method 23.

NOTE 7-Washing conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.4.2.1.

Dry-cleaning conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.4.3.

7.5.2 Lazii-rdering-Deterinine the colorfastness to launder-

ing as directed in the applicable procedure of A.4TCC Test Method 61. The test conditions shall be as specified by the seller.

7.5.3 D v Clecmi~ig-Determine colorfastness to dry clean-

ing as directed in AATCC Test Method 132.

7.5.4 Crocking-Determine colorfastness to dry and wet

crocking as directed in AATCC Tcst Method 8 for solid shades and AATCC Test Method 116 for prints or as agreed upon between the purchaser and the supplier.

7.5.5 Pe7;~piration-Determine colorfastness to perspiration

as directed in AATCC Test Method 15.

7.5.6 Light-netemline colorfastness to light as directed in

AATCC Test Method 16.

Nom 5--1f preferred. use of Methods 27hl or 2262 is N v r k &----.There are distinct ditferences in spectral dist~ibution between existing requirements as given in specification, tlie various types of machines listed in AA'TCC Test Method 16. with no may be no o\~emll correlatio~i between the results obtained with the tongue overall correlations behveeri them. Consequently, tliese niachiries can~iot tear and with maclline, Consequently. tu.o bc used intercha~igeabiy. I11 case of co~itrove~sy. results obtained with the tongue tear testers cannot be used interchon~eably. In case of co~~trouersv. water-cooletl xenon-arc machine listed in Option E shall prevail.

Test Method D 1424 shall prevail. 7.5.7 Flat Abrusioll (Frosting)-Deternline the color

7.4 Dirnett.rioncil Ci~ange: change due to flat abrasion (frostingj as directed in AATCC

7.4.1 Prrssing and Finishing Duving Mum~iic~ui.ing---Mark Test Method 1 19.

specitnen(s) as directed in Section 4 of AATCC Tcst 7.5.8 C'ok~rfisrness to Chlorine Blench,-..-Detertnine color- Method 135. Press and finish specimen(s) as agreed upon fastness to chlorine bleach as directed in AATCC' Test between the purchaser and the supplier with respect to time Method 188.

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7.5.9 Colorj2.sfnc,s.s to .Van-C7hl/~rine R1~ui.h-Deternline

colorfastness to non-chlorjnc bleach as directctl in AATCC Tcst Method 172.

7.6 I7uEric .4ppecrrar1ce-Dctclniinc thc fabric appcarancc

as directed in AATCC Test Method 124 after laundering using the wash-and-wcar cycle or thc ~~or lno l cyclc as agrecd upon between the purchaser and the seller as specified in 7.4.2.1 for washablc fabrics or after dry clcaning as specified 111 7.4.3 for dry-cleanable fabrics.

7.6.1 For fabrics not intended for use in "durable-prcss"

garments, determine the fabric smoothness after pressing as specified in 5.12 of AATCC Test Metliod 96.

7.6.1 . I The fabric smoothness durable-press (DP) rating of such fabrics, and the DP rating of dry-cleaned fabrics, shall have decreased no more than '/z DP rating from that of the fabric before it is laundered 01. dry-cleaned.

7.7 Flirnimcj.hilit;l-The flammability requirements shall be

as agreed upon between the purchaser and the supplier, provided they meet or exceed those of Part 1610 of the Flammable Fabric Act Regulations.

8. Keywords

8.1 dress soit; fabric; performance; specification; sports-wear; trouser

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