Colonial Greatcoat Spec 4 Dec 21.pdf

December 4, 2021

GENERAL ITEM SPECIFICATIONS:

Colonial Coat: The Colonial Coat is a dress uniform made of a wool-blend broadcloth with a

"homespun" appearance (see cloth description paragraph). Coat has two styles of identical pattern: red coat with blue- and ivory-color trim, and a blue coat with red- and ivory-color trim.

a. General Construction: A colonial-style coat extending to mid-thigh with collar and shoulder loops. The collar is 2-1/2” at the front and gradually and uniformly widens to form a 3-1/4 inch wide “V” at the back of the collar. The front plackets are 3” wide and extend down to a square end that ends adjacent to the top of the front pocket flap. Fully lined body and sleeves. Arm pits have arm guards. Coat has shoulder pads and 4-ounce felt chest pieces with fusing. Collar has fusing to retain shape through wear.

b. Lining. The sleeves and the top half of the coat are lined with a cotton lining of 65/35 polyester cotton, plain weave, 4.25 ounce. An acceptable lining is the 4.25 ounce, 65/35 poly cotton white Windsor poplin from Carr Textiles with stain repellancy. The bottom half of the coat is lined with the ivory wool-blend broadcloth. The seam joining the cotton lining to the wool lining shall not be visible when the coat is worn, even when walking or when the tails are blown by the wind.

c. Exterior Pocket Flaps. The front exterior of the coat has non-functional pocket flaps of a scalloped design. The pocket flaps sizes shall be graded per the table below. The pocket buttonholes shall be positioned 1-1/4” (+/- 1/8”) down from the top of the pocket flap to the top of the buttonhole. The pocket flaps shall be sewn onto the coat and folded over (without a top stitch) and held in place with a 3/8” long bartack at the top corner of each side.

Sizes Width

Depth at

Edges

Depth at Center Scallop

Depth at Narrowest

Point of Scallop

34 - 40 8 4 4 3-3/8

42 & Up 8-3/8 4-1/4 4-1/4 3-5/8

Variance 1/4"

1/4" +/- 1/4" +/- 1/4"

d. Interior Pockets: Two interior functioning double-welt pockets on the lower portion of the coat. The double-welt pockets openings shall be 5-3/8” wide (+/- ¼”) and shall be lined with

65/35 polyester cotton, plain weave, between 4.25 and 5 ounce. An acceptable lining is the 5 ounce (Lexington) or 4.25 ounce (Windsor), 65/35 poly cotton white poplin from Carr Textiles.

The interior pockets shall extend ¼” to ½” beyond the double-welt opening on each side and shall be 10” (+/- ½”) deep, except that the size Short shall be 8-1/2” deep. The pocket shall be positioned so that the fold-back of the coat tail does not disrupt the function and use of the interior pockets. For smaller-sized coats, the interior pocket may be reshaped and the lower corner eliminated to prevent the pocket from being folded over into the coat tail fold-back.

e. Interior Musician’s Pocket: The red version of the Greatcoat will have a third interior double-welt pocket designed to accept a fife or a pair of drumsticks. The pocket opening shall be

December 4, 2021 positioned 8-1/2 inches below the bottom closure hook, positioned laterally so that neither the front closure buttons nor the other interior pockets interfere with the pocket. The double-welt opening shall be 3” wide. The pocket depth shall be 12-1/2 inches deep, but shall not fold over when the coat tail is turned back. For Sizes 40 and below, the coat will include only one pocket per side. The pocket shall be lined with 65/35 polyester cotton, plain weave, between 4.25 and 5 ounce. An acceptable lining is the 5 ounce (Lexington) of 4.25 ounce (Windsor), 65/35 poly cotton white poplin from Carr Textiles.

f. Buttons: The coat has 22 "USA" 36-ligne wire-eye long-shank buttons with a silver oxide and military spec lacquer (Waterbury/OGS style #1-29848-36-45-32632) down the front plackets, 22 "USA" 36-ligne hopper-back buttons with a silver oxide and military spec lacquer

(Waterbury/OGS style #1-29848-36-96-32632) on the pocket flaps, cuffs, and coat tails, and 2

"USA" 30-ligne wire-eye long-shank buttons with a silver oxide and military spec lacquer

(Waterbury/OGS style #1-29848-30-45-32632) for the shoulder loops. Buttons shall be sewn on with reinforced thread of a color that matches the color of the cloth to which the button shank is attached. All buttonholes for 36-ligne buttons shall be keyhole style with an interior opening of 1 inch (+/- 1/16”).

g. Shoulder loops: Shoulder loops shall be positioned so that the end touches the collar and shall be 1-3/8" wide (+/- 1/8") at the shoulder seam, slightly tapering to 1-1/4” (+/- 1/8”) at the ends, to accept an epaulette of a specific size for each coat size. The shoulder loop buttonholes shall be keyhole style with an interior opening of ¾” (+/- 1/16”) with the keyhole end placed 5/8” from the point end of the shoulder loop.

h. Collar: The collar width shall be 2-1/2” wide at the front tip, tapering slightly by ¼” as the collar crosses the shoulder seam and then widening to a 3-1/4-inch point at the back of collar.

i. Hooks: The coat shall have 3 reinforced black-enameled hooks at the top front of the coat, space 2-1/2” apart and with the hook on the wearer’s left and the eye on the wearer’s right side.

The coat tails have 2 similar hooks on each tail.

j. Sleeve Cuffs: The sleeve cuffs shall be 3” wide (+/- 1/8”) with a seam positioned to the rear of the sleeve. The back side of the cuff, when turned into position, shall be of a 55% poly 45% wool tropical material with a color that is an approximate match to the cuff color. Let out tolerance for the sleeve will be 1-1/2". Sleeve lining will extend to between ½” and ¾” from the bottom of the cuff and shall be sewn with a blind stitch.

k. Sizes as follows:

36S (M&F) 38S (M&F) 40S (M&F)

42S (M&F) 44S 46S

36R (M&F) 38R (M&F) 40R (M&F)

42R (M&F) 44R 46R 48R 50R 52R 54R

40L (M&F) 42L 44L 46L 48L 50L 52L 54L

42XL 44XL 46XL 48XL