Benjamin_Moore_Everglades_Natl_Park_Paint_Spec_02_19_2021.pdf

PAINT SPECIFICATIONS

Everglades and Dry Tortugas Nat’l Park Homestead, FL

February 19, 2021

Prepared by

James Brice Architecture & Design Representative

804.300.8615 | james.brice@benjaminmoore.com www.benjaminmoore.com

DESCRIPTION PAGE

Surface Preparation 2

Surface Preparation Overview 3-4

Application- General 5

Paint Specifications 6

Exterior Paint Schedule 7-8

Substrates & Problem Areas 9

Examples with Photos 10-15

Maintenance and Aftercare 16

Latex & Acrylic Finishes 17

Epoxies, Urethanes & High-Performance Coatings 18

Touch-Up 19-20

Notes 21

TABLE OF CONTENTS

How to use this specification guide:

The recommended sheen level(s) for the finish coat’s specified usage is indicated in bold, when applicable.

RECOMMENDED OPTION

ALTERNATIVE OPTION

SURFACE PREPARATION

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SURFACE PREPARATION

1. Product selection, surface preparation, and application methods affect coating performance. Improperly prepared surfaces will reduce the integrity and service life of a coating. Selecting the appropriate products and implementation of proper surface preparation methods ensures coating adhesion to the substrate and prolongs the service life of the coating system. The proper method of surface preparation depends on the substrate, the environment, and the expected service life of the coating system. Project budget, surface contamination, and the coating system’s effect on the substrate will also influence the selection of surface preparation methods.

Review the product manufacturer’s Technical Data Sheet (TDS) and special instructions for surface preparation, application, temperature constraints, service environment recommendations, re-coat times, and product limitations.

2. Surfaces to be painted must be clean, dry, and in sound condition, free of dirt, dust, rust, grease, oil, soap, wax, loose or scaling paint, water soluble materials, and mildew. Remove oil, dust, dirt, loose rust, or other contamination to ensure good adhesion. Remove any peeling or scaling paint, and sand these areas to feather edges smooth with adjacent surfaces. Glossy surfaces must be dulled by lightly sanding.

Completely remove sanding dust before paint application. Drywall surfaces must be free of sanding dust. Unweathered exterior areas such as eaves, ceilings, and overhangs should be washed with a detergent solution and/or rinsed with a strong stream of water to remove contaminants that can interfere with proper adhesion. Wax should be removed by solvent cleaning. Grease and oil should be cleaned by using an Oil and Grease Emulsifier, such as Corotech® (V600). Rust must be removed by blasting, hand sanding vigorously or by conscientious power tool cleaning. Remove loose, flaking paint by scraping. Feather sand rough edges to insure a smooth finish coat. Dirt and chalk should be removed by power washing or hand scrubbing with an abrasive cleaner and water, or an all-purpose cleaner such as Benjamin Moore Clean Multi-Purpose Cleaner (N318) followed by a clean water rinse.

Previously Painted Surfaces: any surface preparation short of total removal of the old coating may compromise the service length of the system. Measure adhesion by applying the specified coating system to the substrate, covering at least 2 to 3 square feet. Allow the coating to dry one week before administering the adhesion test per ASTM D3359. If the coating system is determined to be incompatible, complete removal of the old coating is required per ASTM D4259.

3. Mildew: Test for mildew by applying a solution of household bleach and water to any discolored areas; if discoloration dissolves and rinses away, mildew is present and the entire area to be coated should be thoroughly washed and rinsed with a solution of one-part liquid household bleach and three-parts water. Follow bleach manufacturer's instructions for safe handling and use of bleach solution. Protect plant life around the structure. Rinse and repeat operation if all discoloration is not removed. Allow surfaces to dry 48 hours before painting.

(Note: Bleach solutions may damage or discolor existing coatings.

4. Primer: New surfaces should be fully primed, and previously painted surfaces may be primed or spot-primed, as necessary. Spot-prime with premium quality primer before and after filling nail holes, cracks, and other surface imperfections. For best hiding results, tint primer to the approximate shade of the finish coat, especially when a significant color change is desired. Certain custom colors require a Deep Color Base Primer tinted to a special prescription formula to achieve the desired color. Consult your paint retailer.

Dark and Saturated Colors: For best hiding results, tint the primer to the approximate shade of the finish coat, especially when a significant color change is desired. For certain deep colors, Aura® Color Foundation (Aura® Color Foundation 521-12 Yellow or 521-20 Red) must be used to achieve maximum hide and the desired topcoat color. (Note: Be advised that surface abrasions and scuff marks may be more obvious and/ or appear "chalky" in very dark colors, such as black, in a Matte or Flat finish. For very dark colors, consider a Satin or Eggshell sheen instead.)

Difficult Substrates: Benjamin Moore® offers a number of specialty primers for use over difficult substrates such as bleeding woods, grease stains, crayon markings, hard glossy surfaces, or other substrates where paint adhesion or stain suppression is a particular problem. Your Benjamin Moore® Architecture & Design Representative. can recommend the right problem-solving primer for your special needs.

5. Gypsum Board: Repair cracks, holes and other surface defects with setting-type joint compound to produce surface flush with adjacent undamaged surfaces and free of voids. Apply as many coats of joint compound as needed to provide a crack-free surface with no visible edge joints. Use special care to provide a smooth surface free of irregularities in areas exposed to sharply angled or critical lighting. It is important to equalize the varying porosity of the joint compound and the paper surface of the gypsum board by applying a high-quality acrylic primer, such as Fresh Start® High-Hiding All Purpose Primer (046), Fresh Start® Multi-Purpose Latex Primer (N023), or Ultra Spec® 500 Interior Latex Primer (N534), or by skim-coating the entire surface of the gypsum board, followed by prime coat.

6. Plaster and Masonry: New plaster or masonry surfaces must be allowed to cure 30 days before applying base coat. Cured plaster should be hard, have a slight sheen and maximum pH of 10; soft, porous or powdery plaster indicates improper cure. Never sand a plaster surface;

knife off any protrusions and prime plaster before and after applying patching compound.

Poured concrete or precast concrete surfaces should cure for a minimum of 28 days. Block construction should cure for 30-60 days. Poured or pre-cast concrete with a very smooth surface should be etched or abraded to promote adhesion, after removing all form release agents and curing compounds. Remove any powder or loose particles. In the event form oils or waxes are present, a thorough washing with (V600) Corotech Oil & Grease emulsifier followed by sandblasting will be necessary to ensure good adhesion.

7. Concrete Floors: Remove contaminants which could impair coating performance or appearance. Verify moisture transmission and alkaline-acid balance recommended by coating manufacturer; mechanically abrade surface to achieve 80-100 grit medium sandpaper texture. Unpainted and/or non-porous steel-troweled floors must be etched with Benjamin Moore’s Corotech Concrete Etch (V620) concrete and masonry etcher, reduced according to label directions then rinsed thoroughly. The surface must be porous prior to application of any coatings.

WARNING! If you scrape, sand, or remove old paint, you may release lead dust. LEAD IS TOXIC. EXPOSURE TO LEAD DUST CAN CAUSE SERIOUS ILLNESS, SUCH AS BRAIN DAMAGE, ESPECIALLY IN CHILDREN. PREGNANT WOMEN SHOULD ALSO AVOID EXPOSURE. Wear a NIOSH approved respirator to control lead exposure. Clean up carefully with a HEPA vacuum and a wet mop.

Before you start, find out how to protect yourself and your family by contacting the National Lead Informational Hotline at 1-800-424- LEAD or log on to www.epa.gov/lead.

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SURFACE PREPARATION (cont.)

8. Exterior Wood Surfaces: Most adhesion failures on wood are caused by water or water vapor entrapped in the substrate. Pre-priming of wood surfaces before fabrication substantially reduces paint adhesion failures. Smooth planed clapboards or siding must be sanded thoroughly to break the “mill glaze” to allow proper penetration and adhesion. Wood siding, trim sash, framing, and similar surfaces that exhibit blistering, peeling, or scaling must be cleaned to a sound substrate by appropriate means. Exposed wood should be spot-primed with a Fresh Start® exterior primer before applying an overall coat of primer. Medium to heavy chalk deposits must be removed using high-pressure power washing. If mildew is present, N318 Multi-Purpose Cleaner should be added to the water according to label instructions. Un-weathered exterior areas such as eaves, ceilings, and overhangs should be washed with a detergent solution and/or rinsed with a strong stream of water from a garden hose to remove contaminants that can interfere with proper adhesion.

Prevention of Future Issues: Chronic peeling and scaling may be overcome by venting clapboard siding with wedges, screened disks, or installation of an exhaust fan in the laundry room and bathrooms. Peeling around window and door frames can frequently be eliminated by caulking. Damp basements can also contribute to the absorption of water in wood substrates, which is frequently the result of drainage around the foundation.

9. Steel and Ferrous Metal Surfaces: All direct to metal coatings provide maximum performance over near white metal blasted surfaces

(SSPC-SP 10). There are, however, situations and cost considerations that may prevent this type of surface preparation from being done.

Corotech® Industrial Coatings have been designed to provide protection over less than ideal surfaces. The recommended standard is a commercial blast (SSPC-SP 6). The steel profile after the blast should be 1-2 mils and be jagged in nature. Surfaces must be free of grit dust.

The coating should be applied as soon as possible after the blast in order to prevent flash rusting or surface contamination. Hand tool cleaning (SSPC-SP 2) or power tool cleaning (SSPC-SP 3) can be used if blasting is not possible. In areas where adequate surface preparation is not possible the use of V155 100% Solids Epoxy Pre-Primer is recommended. In highly corrosive areas where additional rust inhibitive qualities are required, prime with one coat of V170 Organic Zinc Rich Primer and an acrylic barrier coat prior to applying epoxy coatings.

10. Galvanized Metal Surfaces: Standard paint systems such as oil or alkyd-based coatings or primers should not be applied directly on new, galvanized metal; oil and zinc have a reaction when in contact, creating zinc soap (a process known as saponification), which causes the coating to peel. New galvanized metal that has been exposed to the environment may be successfully coated. First, thoroughly clean the new, galvanized metal surface with (V600) Corotech® Oil & Grease Emulsifier, then prime with (HP04) Acrylic Metal Primer. Top-coating may be accomplished with most conventional solvent and water-thinned coatings. Weathered galvanized metal siding covered with “white rust” must be thoroughly cleaned by wire brushing or sanding.

11. Aluminum and Non-Ferrous Metal Surfaces: Bare aluminum surfaces exposed to normal environments will eventually develop a dull, darkened appearance. In a heavy industrial or salt air environment, extensive pitting and surface corrosion will develop. Non-corroded surfaces should be abraded by rubbing with fine steel wool, then aggressively cleaned with xylene or (V600) Corotech® Oil & Grease

Emulsifier to remove deposits of dirt, grease, and steel wool dust. Pitted and corroded surfaces should be sanded, then wiped clean with xylene. New shiny non-ferrous metal surfaces that will be subject to abrasion should be dulled with very fine sandpaper or a synthetic steel wool pad to promote adhesion.

12. Existing Metal: Use Corotech® Rust Arrestor (V180) on tight adhering rusted steel surfaces such as structural steel, angle iron, conveyors, pipes, valves, fittings, duct work, fences, guard rails, wrought iron, grating, equipment, outdoor sign supports and frame-work, tanks, etc. (V180) can be top coated with latex, alkyd, urethane, or epoxy finishes.

13. This specification guide is not meant to be comprehensive; other Benjamin Moore products and finishes are available. Consult with your

Benjamin Moore® Architecture & Design Representative for recommended coating systems for the particular substrates and service environments of your projects.

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APPLICATION- GENERAL

A. Application of primers, paints, stains or coatings, by the Contractor, will serve as acceptance that surfaces were properly prepared in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendation.

B. Apply each coat to uniform coating thickness in accordance with manufacturer's instructions, not exceeding manufacturer's specified maximum spread rate for indicated surface; thins, brush marks, roller marks, orange-peel, or other application imperfections are not permitted.

C. Allow manufacturer's specified drying time, and ensure correct coating adhesion, for each coat before applying next coat.

D. Inspect each coat before applying next coat; touch-up surface imperfections with coating material, feathering, and sanding if required;

touch-up areas to achieve flat, uniform surface without surface defects visible from 5 feet (1.5 m).

E. Remove dust and other foreign materials from substrate immediately prior to applying each coat.

F. Where paint application abuts other materials or other coating color, terminate coating with a clean sharp termination line without coating overlap.

G. Where color changes occur between adjoining spaces, through framed openings that are of same color as adjoining surfaces, change color at outside stop corner nearest to face of closed door.

H. Re-prepare and re-coat unsatisfactory finishes; refinish entire area to corners or other natural terminations.

DISCLAIMER: Approximately 90% of all paint failures can be directly attributed to improper surface preparation. Strictly following all surface preparation instructions on all surfaces is essential to achieve maximum benefits of the coatings to be used. Regardless if inspections are conducted on a regular basis, it is the painting contractor’s ultimate responsibility to assure that all surfaces to be painted are properly and completely prepared prior to application of any and all coatings.

PAINT SPECIFICATIONS

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DISCLAIMER: The specifications contained herein are provided as an aid to the professionally qualified Specifier and Design

Professional. The use of this information relies solely on the professional judgment and expertise of the qualified Specifier and Design

Professional to adapt the information to the specific needs for the Building Owner and the Project, to coordinate with their Construction

Document Process, and to meet all the applicable building codes, regulations and laws.

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PRIMER

OPTIONS

Corotech® Acrylic Metal Primer V110

Corotech 100% Solids Epoxy Pre-Primer* V155*

1ST COAT Corotech® Acrylic D.T.M. Semi-Gloss (V331), Gloss (V330)

2ND COAT Corotech® Acrylic D.T.M. Semi-Gloss (V331), Gloss (V330)

PRIMER

OPTIONS

Corotech® Acrylic Metal Primer V110

Corotech 100% Solids Epoxy Pre-Primer* V155*

1ST COAT

Coronado® Rust Scat Waterborne Acrylic Interior/ Exterior Enamel

Semi-Gloss (90), Gloss (80)

2ND COAT

Coronado® Rust Scat Waterborne Acrylic Interior/ Exterior Enamel

Semi-Gloss (90), Gloss (80)

COATING

SYSTEM

PRODUCT

DESCRIPTION

AVAILABLE SHEENS &

PRODUCT CODES

WIND-DRIVEN

RAIN RATED

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PRIMER

Ultra Spec® Masonry Interior/ Exterior 100% Acrylic Masonry Sealer

1ST COAT

Benjamin Moore REGAL® SELECT Exterior Paint- High Build

Flat (N400), Low Lustre (N401), Soft Gloss (N403) ✓

2ND COAT

Benjamin Moore REGAL® SELECT Exterior Paint- High Build

Flat (N400), Low Lustre (N401), Soft Gloss (N403) ✓

PRIMER

Ultra Spec® Masonry Interior/ Exterior 100% Acrylic Masonry Sealer

1ST COAT Ultra Spec® Exterior Flat (N447), Low Lustre (N455), Satin (N448), Gloss (N449) ✓

2ND COAT Ultra Spec® Exterior Flat (N447), Low Lustre (N455), Satin (N448), Gloss (N449) ✓

EXTERIOR PAINT SCHEDULE

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(ASTM D6904)

*For areas with significant rust, prime with Corotech 100% Solids Epoxy Pre-Primer (V155).

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PRIMER

AQUA LOCK® PLUS 100% Acrylic Primer Sealer

White (AQ-0400), Black (AQ-0420), Deep Tint Base (AQ-0577)

1ST COAT

Benjamin Moore REGAL® SELECT Exterior Paint- High Build

Flat (N400), Low Lustre (N401), Soft Gloss (N403) ✓

2ND COAT

Benjamin Moore REGAL® SELECT Exterior Paint- High Build

Flat (N400), Low Lustre (N401), Soft Gloss (N403) ✓

PRIMER

AQUA LOCK® PLUS 100% Acrylic Primer Sealer

White (AQ-0400), Black (AQ-0420), Deep Tint Base (AQ-0577)

1ST COAT Ultra Spec® Exterior Flat (N447), Low Lustre (N455), Satin (N448), Gloss (N449) ✓

2ND COAT Ultra Spec® Exterior Flat (N447), Low Lustre (N455), Satin (N448), Gloss (N449) ✓

EXTERIOR PAINT SCHEDULE (CONT.)

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COATING

SYSTEM

PRODUCT

DESCRIPTION

AVAILABLE SHEENS &

PRODUCT CODES

VOCs g/L

LEED v4

CREDIT

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S PRIMER*

Corotech® 100% Solids Epoxy Pre-Primer (when adequate surface prep is not possible)

V155 6

1ST COAT

Corotech® Surface Tolerant Epoxy Mastic Coating

V160 (Semi-Gloss) 184

2ND COAT Corotech® Aliphatic Acrylic Urethane V500 (Gloss) V510 (Semi-Gloss)

PRIMER* Corotech® 100% Solids Epoxy Pre-Primer V155 6

1ST COAT

Corotech® Polyamide Epoxy Coating Gloss/Semi-Gloss

V400-90 (Gloss), V400-91 (Semi-Gloss), V400-92 (High Build)

2ND COAT

Corotech® Polyamide Epoxy Coating Gloss/Semi-Gloss

V400-90 (Gloss), V400-91 (Semi-Gloss), V400-92 (High Build)

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K S 1ST COAT INSL-X® TP-2220 Black Latex Traffic Paint** TP2220 94 *

2ND COAT INSL-X® Latex Traffic Paint TP2210 – White, TP2202 – Red, TP2220 – Black, TP2242 – Handicap Blue, TP3224- Yellow

94 *

1ST COAT INSL-X® TP-2220 Black Latex Traffic Paint** TP2220 94 *

2ND COAT INSL-X® Acrylic FAST-SET Traffic Paint TP3380- Yellow, TP2310- White 24 *

1ST COAT INSL-X® TP-2220 Black Latex Traffic Paint* * TP2220 94 *

2ND COAT INSL-X® Alkyd Traffic Paint Flat Finish TP3424- Yellow, TP2410- White 348 * *LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) does not address Traffic Marking Coatings.

**Existing traffic lines can be obliterated on asphalt surfaces by coating with TP-2220 Black Latex Traffic Paint prior to application of the required color.

SUBSTRATES & PROBLEM AREAS

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*For areas with significant rust, prime with Corotech 100% Solids Epoxy Pre- Primer V155.

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MAINTENANCE AND AFTERCARE

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LATEX & ACRYLIC FINISHES

What is The Recommended Procedure for Washing Latex Finishes?

The best approach to washing a wall is to start with the least aggressive method; water on a soft cellulose sponge. If this is not successful, use a mild, non-abrasive, mild solution of dish detergent.

Be sure that the mixture is diluted to avoid harming the paint film.

What Cleansers Should Not Be Used On A Painted Surface?

Most standard glass and household spray cleaners are formulated with strong solvents that can damage the paint finish, and are therefore not recommended for use on painted surfaces.

How Soon Before A Newly Applied Latex Surface Can Be Washed?

Wait until the latex coating has had a chance to cure before washing it - typically at least 2 weeks following application. Deep colors may have some color rub off in a flat or low-sheen finishes. This does not indicate inferior or defective paint. Once the surface has dried, the paint should appear uniform.

Paint will not be affected if:

• The paint has properly cured for 2 weeks.

• The paint is cleaned with a weak solution of water and dish detergent and cellulose sponge.

Washing Procedure

1. Use one bucket for washing solution, and one for clean water rinsing. Use separate sponge (a large cellulose sponge works well) for each bucket.

2. Wear rubber gloves to protect hands.

3. First try washing or spot cleaning painted surfaces with water. If this is not successful, advance to a weak mixture of water and mild, non-abrasive, dish detergent.

4. Begin washing at the bottom of the wall, working up, so the cleaning solution does not run down the dirty wall and cause streaks that could be difficult to remove.

5. When cleaning, rub gently in a circular motion to avoid damaging the paint.

6. After washing, dry off excess moisture with a soft, absorbent cloth.

Tips to Remember

Darker, flat paints are more susceptible to being damaged and having pigment rub off when they are scrubbed too harshly. Eggshell, satin or semi-gloss enamels withstand cleaning better than flat or matte coatings.

Test your cleaning solution in an inconspicuous corner first. If the wall color and finish look the same, but cleaner, continue washing the entire wall. Always rinse off the wall with clean water after using any type of cleaning agent.

→ The recommendations under this section are also applicable to other waterborne or alkyd paints.

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TWO-COMPONENT EPOXIES, URETHANES AND OTHER SIMILAR HIGH-

PERFORMANCE COATINGS

Some items below are only needed for heavier-duty use environments as indicated; unless a bullet refers to a floor coating - it is also applicable to vertical surfaces.

• For minor spills or stains, simply wipe with a soft cloth, sponge or towel.

• For routine floor maintenance cleaning, use a soft bristle broom or a commercial dust mop.

• For heavy cleaning of a soiled floor, sweep away any loose debris and then mop the floor with a sponge mop (also called “hard foam” mop) with hot water and the suggested cleaning solution below:

o For removing oil, grease, fats, etc. use Corotech® Oil & Grease Emulsifier V600 or similar.

o For maintenance cleaning, use Corotech® Citrus Cleaner V610 or similar.

Refer to the Technical Data Sheet for dilution rates recommended by the manufacturer.

• Some road treatment compounds may find their way onto garage floors and leave a hazy film after cleaning. These can be removed with hot water and a deck brush (found almost hardware stores). Rinse to keep the compounds from drying onto the floor.

• Some stains may require light scrubbing with a commercial stain removing pad. Start with cold water then try hot water, and if still unable to remove with just water, use a soft scrub type cleaner and follow the manufacturer’s recommendations. Do not use abrasive cleaning chemicals on the coating, as they will damage the appearance of the coating in the long run.

• Exterior or garage floors can be lightly hosed clean, mopped or squeegeed dry.

• There is usually no need for harsh cleaners such as those that contains acids (citrus cleaners, vinegar, etc.), or for soap-based cleaners. Soap based cleaners tend to leave a residue. Soap cleaners can also make floors slippery.

• Use mats at entry doors to make it easier to remove snow and soilants from the bottoms of shoes when entering the coated floor area.

• Place a pad or a piece of wood under sharp objects or jack stands to prevent damage to the coated floors, especially when those objects are used for bearing heavy loads.

• Ensure all areas are clean and protect the floor with a mat before lifting heavy loads with rolling jacks.

• Avoid harsh cleaners, as they are usually not needed and they may damage the coating over the long run.

WARNING! If you scrape, sand, or remove old paint, you may release lead dust. LEAD IS TOXIC.

EXPOSURE TO LEAD DUST CAN CAUSE SERIOUS ILLNESS, SUCH AS BRAIN DAMAGE,

ESPECIALLY IN CHILDREN. PREGNANT WOMEN SHOULD ALSO AVOID EXPOSURE. Wear a NIOSH approved respirator to control lead exposure. Clean up carefully with a HEPA vacuum and a wet mop. Before you start, find out how to protect yourself and your family by contacting the National Lead Informational Hotline at 1-800-424-LEAD or log on to www.epa.gov/lead.

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TOUCH UP

Variables of Touch Up

Generally, there are four main variables that can produce a visible touch up. These variables can ultimately determine a successful repair or not.

1. When a different application method is used when touching up compared to how the original paint was applied.

2. The porosity of the surface to be repaired.

3. When the paint used for the touch is different from what was originally used.

4. When the environmental conditions for the touch up differ from when the paint was originally applied.

Application Methods

When you use different application methods with the same paint job, touch-up problems can occur. Commonly referred to as a “Halo.” For example, if you use a roller for your initial application and apply touch-up with a brush, differences in the paint film's profile may be noticeable. Roller nap leaves a different surface profile than brushes. When light reflects off these profiles, the resulting reflection causes the appearance of a difference in the sheen or color. Touch-up marks also can be noticed when there is a significant difference in the film thickness of the touch-up and the initial application.

In the field, the "halo" problem may be alleviated by stippling with a brush or otherwise trying to duplicate the texture of the original by using the same type of applicator. Diluting the repair paint by 5-10% may help by accommodating the difference in wicking. Wicking refers to moisture being absorbed into the surface. The main problem is that wicking will not occur at the same rate on a touch-up job versus the wicking rate of the original top-coat.

Surface Porosity

Porous substrates can cause touch up differences, in both color and degree of finish, particularly with high sheen eggshells and higher gloss finishes. An unprimed, porous substrate will absorb some of the paint’s vehicle, which results in a slightly lower sheen or gloss level.

If a second topcoat is not applied to achieve the correct finish level, any subsequent touch up will be noticeable, as it will show up higher in gloss or sheen. In this case temperature makes no difference. A sheen and gloss difference will occur regardless.

Often, poor hiding is misdiagnosed as a color touch-up problem. If an unpainted, unprimed surface is coated with a clean white or transparent color, there may be some gaps in hiding the substrate.

In order to provide the best hiding with these lightly toned colors, two topcoats are necessary.

These should be applied over a primer sealer. If only one topcoat is applied and a subsequent touch-up is made, the color or sheen difference may stem from insufficient hide. Using a primer on porous substrates will provide the required sealing properties. In cases where a dramatic color change is taking place or a clean white or jewel tone color is being used, a pigmented primer will support and augment the hiding ability.

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Using the Original Material

Save some of the original paint at each job site specifically for touch-up purposes. Stored paint loses moisture over time and therefore contributes to a different wicking rate. The touch up should be contained to the smallest possible area when doing the repair, and you should feather the edges to make the new and old paints blend. Thin the paint to be applied with 5-10% of water when using water-based paint.

Temperature & Environmental Conditions

Temperature changes between coats can cause touch ups to be lighter or darker than your original coat, especially when you work in temperatures that fall between 40°F – 60°F.

Typically, touch ups will be lighter in color if they are applied when the temperature is 10 degrees cooler than the initial application. If the reverse is true, the touch up can appear darker. Color differences with warmer temperatures—over 60 degrees—are less predictable. Problems may still occur, but they can also be caused by factors such as faster film drying and/or dry brushing.

Tips to Remember

• Keep a record that includes the product, sheen/gloss level, application method and color for each space.

• Save a small amount of the original paint used in each area.

• Keep a record of custom color formulas and place of purchase if additional paint is needed for a repair.

• Make note of natural break-points where entire sections can be re-painted if needed.

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NOTES

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