B08_Solicitation_Attach_1_Specifications_Appendix_C_2014_PEACEFUL_VALLEY_RANCH_HISTORIC_STRUCTURES_REPORT.pdf

Peaceful Valley Ranch Theodore Roosevelt National Park

Historic Structures Report

June 2014 ii

Peaceful Valley Ranch HSR

Table of Contents iii

Table of Contents Signature Sheet ...................................................................................................... i Table of Contents ................................................................................................... iii

Executive Summary

Purpose and Significance of Peaceful Valley Ranch

Administrative Data

Part 1: Developmental History

Existing Conditions Condition Assessment Character Defining Features

Bunkhouse Existing Conditions Condition Assessment Character Defining Features

Barn Existing Conditions Condition Assessment Character Defining Features

Site Utilities Existing Conditions Condition Assessment

Table of Contents iv

Part 2: Treatment and Use Overview Treatment and Use Treatment Priorities Recommended Treatment Ranch House Bunkhouse Barn Site Utilities Work Recommendations / Phasing Approach Ranch House Bunkhouse Barn Site Utilities

APPENDICES

Appendix A: 2013 Ranch House, Bunkhouse & Barn Drawings.......................... A-1 Appendix B: Cost Estimate.................................................................................... B-1 Appendix C: Hazardous Material Report.............................................................. C-1 Appendix D: Bibliography...................................................................................... D-1 Appendix E: Glossary of Terms.............................................................................. E-1 Appendix F: 1939 Ranch House, Bunkhouse & Barn Drawings.......................... F-1 Appendix G: 1950 Bunkhouse Addition Drawing................................................. G-1 Appendix H: Water Site Plan with New Fire Lines.............................................. H-1 Appendix I: Structural Load Calculations............................................................. I-1

Executive Summary

Executive Summary This Historic Structures Report (HSR) presents a planning document for the historic Peaceful Valley Ranch, located within Theodore Roosevelt National Park near Medora, North Dakota. The HSR identifies characteristics and features that convey the historic significance and character of Peaceful Valley Ranch, and provides a plan for the long-term preservation and stewardship of its historic buildings.

The intent of this HSR is to document the history, current conditions, and recommended treatments for the extant buildings on the property. The report provides park management with a comprehensive understanding of the physical evolution of the buildings as well as guidance for their management. Three historic buildings are addressed in this HSR: the Ranch House, the Bunkhouse, and the Barn. Documentation of historic significance and evaluation of integrity of the buildings provides the framework upon which treatment recommendations are based. An investigation and evaluation has been conducted using National Register of Historic Places (NRHP or national register) guidelines and forms the body of this report.

Peaceful Valley Ranch’s contributing features are in need of varying levels of repair to mitigate the conditions and deterioration that threaten their longevity. Currently the buildings are used by a trail ride concessioner so visitors see the exterior of the Ranch House and Bunkhouse and the public portion of the Barn. If an informed, comprehensive plan for the historic buildings is not developed and implemented, the growing list of deferred maintenance items may compromise the historic integrity of the resources, diminishing the resources’ interpretive value and the visitor experience.

The HSR will be used to support the park’s General Management Plan Amendment, Long Range Interpretive Plan, and associated compliance as required by the National Historic Preservation Act (NHPA) of 1966, as amended, and by the National Environmental Policy Act (NEPA) of 1969, as amended.

The existing condition and general condition assessment, is documented in Part 1. Treatment options for each element/feature of all three buildings are documented in Part 2. The recommended treatments are then broken out into recommended phases of work. These phases were developed by prioritizing critical issues and by integrating work economies so that the same element is not worked on in multiple phases if it is affordable and logical to complete the work in one phase.

Overview of the Report This document presents the HSR for Peaceful Valley Ranch at Theodore Roosevelt National Park.

The National Park Service (NPS) funded this document in 2013 to help guide park management decisions for this property.

Purpose & Need for the Project Project Purpose The purpose of this project is to protect Peaceful Valley Ranch which is significant for its association with

Executive Summary

Executive Summary open-range ranching, dude ranching, and the establishment of Theodore Roosevelt National Park. This project will provide guidance for the long-term stewardship of Peaceful Valley Ranch for the enjoyment of current visitors and future generations by creating a phased plan for the maintenance, restoration, and rehabilitation of the buildings.

Project Need This HSR documents and addresses deficiencies in the condition of the buildings at Peaceful Valley Ranch.

Deficiencies include needed repairs to the Ranch House, Bunkhouse, and Barn. Repairs include critical work on the foundation and exterior of each building. The project also provides an opportunity to address modifications to the property that occurred after the period of significance. The national register nomination form states that the period of significance is from 1885-1936, a range which starts when the first portion of the Ranch House was constructed and ends when the NPS took ownership of the buildings. Examples of changes made after the period of significance include the Bunkhouse interior where the building was remodeled to divide it into the multiple room layout that exists today and an addition that was constructed on the north elevation.

Proposed treatments are needed to preserve the historically significant Ranch House, Bunkhouse, and Barn. Options are provided for the buildings if the current use changes in the future.

Project Objectives The HSR identifies building and design features that convey the historical significance and character of the property, and provides a plan for long-term preservation and stewardship of the buildings. This report addresses the following objectives:

• Document the history of Peaceful Valley Ranch.

• Document and analyze the existing condition of the Ranch House, Bunkhouse, and Barn. This includes analyzing architectural and structural integrity, utilities, finishes, materials and features, documenting threats or other potential impacts to the property, and providing recommendations for repair and/or treatment.

• Present treatment recommendations to provide for the long-term stewardship of Peaceful Valley Ranch with specific recommendations for preservation and for repair or improvements to the buildings.

• Identify opportunities for providing universal accessibility in the Ranch House and Bunkhouse.

Scope of the Historic Structure Report The HSR is the primary document used to guide management and stewardship of the buildings, and to inform treatment and maintenance of the buildings at Peaceful Valley Ranch. Treatment recommendations provide guidance for:

1. Preservation, repair, and rehabilitation;

2. Routine and deferred maintenance;

and,

3. Remedies for code deficiencies associated with the Architectural Barriers Act Accessibility Standard (ABAAS) compliance, utility upgrades, and fire and life safety issues.

The intent of the HSR is to provide a plan that addresses operational needs while also recognizing that the mission of the NPS is to provide a rich and authentic visitor experience, and to ensure that

Executive Summary long-term preservation and stewardship objectives are met to the maximum extent practicable.

The HSR documents the existing condition and provides an assessment of the three contributing buildings.

Existing conditions of each building are evaluated and elements are assigned a condition rating of good, fair, or poor to inform the treatment alternatives.

Methodology History Methodology The primary goals of the history are to provide accurate historical information in the form of a historic context and to clarify the evolution of the buildings.

The general methods include a review of existing literature, interviews with previous residents, and on-site inspection.

A number of documents have been written on the history of the site and were a useful source of information for this report. The principal sources for historic documentation for this report were the National Register of Historic Places Nomination Form and “Peaceful Valley Ranch an Extended Narrative History” by Dori Penny and Thomas Larson. The history contained in this report focuses on the subject buildings for context.

The research, coupled with on-site investigations, verified the accuracy of previous work and uncovered new information about Peaceful Valley Ranch.

Historic Structure Report Methodology The HSR presents documentary, graphic and physical information for the three extant buildings within Peaceful

Valley Ranch - the Ranch House, Bunkhouse, and Barn. Primary historic documents (original drawings, historic photographs, historic maps, and other historic documentation), rehabilitation drawings, park maintenance records, material testing, and site investigations were analyzed to compile the record of each structure’s development, historic alterations, and current condition.

The assessment process utilized a multidisciplinary approach to more fully understand each building and its alterations. Disciplines included architectural, mechanical, electrical, structural, and hazardous materials experts. These disciplines reflect the key areas and issues addressed.

Significant dates or periods of construction were established to document features and to determine the relative significance of each feature to the building and of each building within Peaceful Valley Ranch. Where physical evidence did not support historic documentation and where historic records themselves were inconsistent, findings were documented to establish a baseline for future research.

Existing Condition A brief physical description of each contributing building precedes a description of the individual building features and includes information such as massing, form, orientation, materiality, and general plan layout. Field observations contributed to descriptions of each extant feature and attendant condition rating. Features observed by discipline include the following as applicable by building:

Architecture: roofing, gutters and downspouts, chimneys, exterior walls, exterior trim, windows, doors, wall finishes, ceiling finishes, interior trim, floor, stairs, code/life safety, and

Executive Summary accessibility.

Structure: foundation, floor framing, roof framing, ceiling framing, wall framing, lateral system, and load requirements.

Mechanical Systems: plumbing systems, HVAC, and fire protection systems.

Electrical Systems: infrastructure, branch circuits, general power outlets and equipment, lighting systems, telecommunications, fire alarm and security system, and lightning protection.

Hazardous Materials: asbestos, lead containing paint and lead dust, lead in soils, and mold.

Condition Assessment Each feature was evaluated and an attendant condition rating determined. A general building condition assessment is presented first, followed by the condition assessment and ratings of each feature or component.

A list of the contributing features — those characteristics that embody each structure’s special and notable qualities

— follow the description of physical features. Mass and form, layout of spaces, exterior materials, openings, and interior materials are included where applicable.

Treatment Alternatives In Part 2 the treatment alternatives and associated impacts are discussed.

Phasing Part 2 also includes the recommended phases of work for each building.

Purpose and Significance of Peaceful Valley Ranch In 1921 the North Dakota Legislature passed a resolution urging the United States Congress to establish Theodore Roosevelt National Park, mainly at the initiative of Carl Olson the owner of Peacefully Valley Ranch at that time.

However, the NPS was receiving many petitions to establish new parks so the petition for Theodore Roosevelt National Park did not move forward. In 1928 a trip was organized by the Roosevelt Memorial Park Association to show NPS officials and congressmen the area, in the hopes of getting a park established, included a stay at Peaceful Valley Ranch. The park was initially established as Roosevelt Recreation Demonstration Area in 1936.

In 1946 it was changed to the Theodore Roosevelt National Wildlife Refuge. On April 25, 1947 Congress passed an act establishing the Theodore Roosevelt National Memorial Park. In 1978 Congress changed the name to Theodore Roosevelt National Park, altered the park boundaries and designated 29,920 acres as wilderness.

Peaceful Valley Ranch served as the park headquarters when it was established as the Roosevelt Recreational Demonstration Area and remained a focal area of the park for 25 years. The park headquarters moved out of Peaceful Valley Ranch and from 1967 through the present it has been used by concessioners offering horse trail rides through the park.

The purpose, significance, and mission goals of the park, as identified in the 2011 Long Range Interpretive Plan (2011 LRIP), outline how the site is managed.

See Related Planning Documents for a summary of this report.

The mission of Theodore Roosevelt National Park is to preserve and protect

Executive Summary the natural and cultural resources of the park for the benefit and enjoyment of this and future generations, and to honor Theodore Roosevelt’s conservation legacy.

Summary of Recommendations Recommended treatments for all three buildings are classified as a critical, serious, or minor priority in Part 2.

Recommendations range from critical structural deficiencies to minor cosmetic issues. All three buildings require work to address deterioration to exterior materials. Most of the critical issues on the exterior are related to deterioration of the wood logs. It is also critical to address the lead containing paint on the building and any lead contaminated soils adjacent to the buildings.

Architectural recommendations for the building interiors range from repair or replacement of deteriorated elements to minor repairs of finishes. Structural recommendations include critical repairs to address structural deficiencies. The Ranch House requires critical structural work in two rooms - the Mud Room and the Porch. Electrical work to bring elements up to code is recommended for all three buildings. Mechanical work to addresses deficiencies is recommended for all three buildings. Hazardous material mitigation is recommended for all three buildings.

Work Phasing Approach A phased rehabilitation approach was developed for all three buildings. This provides guidelines to manage the recommended work in three phases instead of as one large project. The phases divide the work by priority and group work items in phases that would logically be combined to prevent work from occurring on one element over multiple phases.

Recommendations for Further Research The following future studies would be helpful to further inform park staff on management of the site:

• Additional historic photo search.

• Investigate the time frame of the enclosure of the east porch on the Ranch House and determine if it had the current configuration within the period of significance. If it was altered after the period of significance, then the period of significance could be reviewed to determine if it should be extended to include the construction of this section of the house. Since the buildings were determined eligible under Criterion A on the national register form for “association with open-range ranching, dude ranching, and the early development of Theodore Roosevelt National Park” changes made during the initial years of the park could potentially be retained under a restoration scenario. Limited documentation of the building layout prior to this porch addition exists so additional research might determine the layout of the walls and doors in this area prior to the porch construction.

• Limited destructive testing at the west wall of the Bunkhouse living room to determine the condition of the original fireplace, hearth, and mantle.

• Additional research into the construction history of the Barn to conclusively determine which section was built first and the dates of construction.

Administrative Data

Administrative Data

Location of Peaceful Valley Ranch, Theodore Roosevelt National Park, South Unit, Medora, ND.

(Source: Theodore Roosevelt National Park Map Page, 11/13/2013)

Peaceful Valley Ranch

Location Map

Administrative Data

Description of the Study Area Peaceful Valley Ranch is located within the South Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park in the Little Missouri River badlands in western North Dakota.

Interstate 94 runs along the southern boundary of the South Unit of the park.

Peaceful Valley Ranch is located on a terrace above the Little Missouri about seven road miles from Medora, North Dakota.

The Ranch House, Bunkhouse and Barn at Peaceful Valley Ranch are the only remaining ranch buildings in their original setting within the park. These three buildings are contained within the National Register site boundary. Other ranch buildings support the concessioner functions, park operations and visitor needs but are not addressed in this report because they are modern buildings.

These include a privy, tack shed and hay structure.

Location Data Peaceful Valley Ranch is located in UTM Reference Zone 13, Easting 613860 and Northing 5201450. Per the National Register Nomination Form, the verbal boundary description is SE 1/4 of the NE 1/4 of the NE 1/4, Section 11, T 140 N, R 101 W, and SW 1/4 of the NW 1/4 of the NW 1/4, Section 12, T 140 N, R 101 W. This boundary includes only the Ranch House, Bunkhouse, and Barn and excludes modern structures on the property.

Administrative Data

Project Team NPS Midwest Regional Office Staff

Landscape Historian Dan Jackson

Theodore Roosevelt National Park Staff

Anderson Hallas Architects, PC, Architects (Prime)

Architectural Engineering Design Group, Electrical Engineer Principal Jon Brooks, PE

JVA, Incorporated, Structural Engineer

Badlands Environmental, Inc., Environmental Engineers Environmental Specialist Andrew Schirado

CBRE, Cost Estimating Cost Estimator Kyle Holland

Administrative Data

Proposed Treatment The proposed treatment for all three buildings is rehabilitation. Because repair and replacement of deteriorated features is necessary, some alterations will be necessary for their continued use, and they have undergone alteration since the period of significance, especially on the interior of each building. A restoration option is also provided for the Bunkhouse. This option would restore the interior of the 1920 section of the Bunkhouse to its historic open floor plan and utilize the 1950s addition for necessary support functions such as a restroom and offices.

Related Planning Documents Management Policies 2006 NPS Management Policies 2006 provide guidance for all management decisions, including decisions related to cultural resources. Cultural resources, including historic structures, are addressed in section 5.0, which states the NPS cultural resources management program involves “…stewardship to ensure that cultural resources are preserved and protected, receive appropriate treatments (including maintenance) to achieve desired conditions, and are made available for public understanding and enjoyment.”

In addition to NPS Management Policies 2006, the following park-specific documents provided information on park resources and management strategies and priorities.

Long-Range Interpretive Plan (NPS 2011) The Long Range Interpretive Plan defines the overall vision of the park and provides long-term (7-10 years) interpretive goals.

The plan mentions that Peaceful Valley Ranch is the starting point for horseback tours but does not provide any specific recommendations for the buildings. It does recommend adding waysides that interpret the history of Peaceful Valley Ranch and it recommends creating a virtual tour of the Ranch for those unable to visit in person.

General Management Plan (NPS 1987) The General Management Plan provides strategies that guide the use, management and development of the park. It includes a land protection plan and an environmental assessment. The buildings at Peaceful Valley Ranch are included in the cultural resource management section of this report. It states a concern that Peaceful Valley Ranch is located in the 100 year flood plain of the Little Missouri River with the water level during this flood anticipated to be four feet over the floor of the buildings.

The buildings are also within the 100 year flash flood zone of Paddock Creek. The Ranch House, Bunkhouse, and Barn are all included in the park’s List of Classified Structures but the overall planning effort recommended in this report did not address Peaceful Valley Ranch.

Part 1: Developmental History

Part 1: Developmental History Introduction Historic background and context section of Peaceful Valley Ranch begins starting with the history of ranching in the region and continues through the creation of Theodore Roosevelt National Park. It also includes the more recent history of Peaceful Valley Ranch and its use as headquarters during the early years of the park.

The section begins with an overview of the history of the region, which includes Roosevelt’s influence on the area. The period of significance spans from 1885

- 1936, starting at the date of initial construction of the Ranch House and continuing to the early years of the park.

During this period, the property changed hands multiple times and each owner had an impact on the site’s development.

The Ranch House’s construction and each successive addition, along with the construction of the Bunkhouse and Barn, all fall within this time frame. Later history includes the Ranch’s use as park headquarters and its significant role in the establishment of the park. Principal sources for historic documentation for this report were the National Register of Historic Places Nomination Form and “Peaceful Valley Ranch an Extended Narrative History” by Dori Penny and Thomas Larson.

History of Building Development The Ranch House was initially constructed in 1885 by Benjamin Lamb, who was a successful open range rancher.

Lamb sold the property in 1890 to Joe Caughtin and Tom McDonahue, also open range ranchers, who constructed an addition on the north facade. Sometime between 1896 and 1898 Caughtin and McDonahue sold the property to George Burgess who constructed a log addition on the north side of the previous addition and built the extant Barn, along with other structures that have since been demolished.

In 1915 H.(Harry) W. Olson bought the property and through various transfers within the family, Carl B. Olson became the owner of the ranch in 1924. Open range ranching was declining during this period and transitioning to fee simple ranching. The operation of dude ranches was also gaining in popularity and Peaceful Valley Ranch first served as a dude ranch in 1918. The Bunkhouse was constructed in 1920 as a single open room that served as a gathering area and dancehall for guests.

In 1936, after Olson had spent over a decade promoting the creation of a national park in the area, what was to become Theodore Roosevelt National Park was established as a Recreational Demonstration Area. The park was established as Theodore Roosevelt National Park in 1947 and though the boundaries changed several times, Peaceful Valley Ranch was at the center of the park’s establishment and early development. From the creation of the park in 1947 until 1959 when the headquarters slowly moved out, the ranch served as park headquarters.

Subsequently, the ranch was transferred to concessioner use offering horse trail rides, a use which continues to this day.

Part 1: Developmental History

Historic Background and Context Open Range Ranching, Fee Simple Ranching and Dude Ranching Open range ranching began on the Northern and High Plains regions of the United States in the late 1800s as Native Americans living on the plains were increasingly being confined to reservations.1 During this same time period, bison were hunted to near extinction and the demand for beef in the east inspired many entrepreneurs to move west and develop large cattle operations.

A key element for the success of open range ranching was construction of the railroads which enabled ranches to easily ship their livestock across the country.

In 1880 the Northern Pacific Railroad reached the Little Missouri River and in 1883 was linked to the western portion of the line.2 The practice of raising herds of cattle on large areas of unfenced public land was known as open range ranching.

Many of the open range ranches were owned or financially supported by foreign investors or prominent cattlemen in other states.3 In North Dakota, open range ranching centered around the grasslands on both sides of the Little Missouri River.

One of the better known open range ranchers in this area was Theodore Roosevelt who made his first trip to North Dakota in 1883. During his visit, Roosevelt decided to invest in a ranch, the Maltese Cross, and hired Sylvane Ferris and William Merrifield to manage

it. Roosevelt’s purchase included 400

1 National Register of Historic Places, Peaceful Valley Ranch, Billings, North Dakota, National Register #94000731, 15.

2 Dori M. Penny and Thomas K. Larson, “Peaceful Valley Ranch: An Extended Narrative History” (Medora, North Dakota: National Park Service, 1993), 8.

3 North Dakota State Historic Preservation Office, “Historic Preservation in North Dakota, 2010-2015:

A Statewide Comprehensive Plan.” (Bismarck: State Historical Society of North Dakota: 2009), 20.

head of cattle and range rights.4 Range rights were an integral part of open range ranching, as they gave ranchers the right to use public lands for grazing. A year later, inspired by the success of his first ranch, Roosevelt established the Elkhorn Ranch and hired Bill Sewall and Wilmot Dow to run it.5 Multiple other ranches were established in the area and open range ranching thrived.

A lesser known but also influential individual in the area was the Marquis de Morés who moved to the area, became a successful rancher and in 1883 established the town of Medora and a meat packing plant. The packing plant ultimately failed but the Marquis constructed multiple buildings in Medora and left a lasting impression on the area.6 Three of the buildings he constructed are listed on the National Register of Historic Places – the Chateau de Morés, the de Morés Packing Plant and St. Mary’s Catholic Church.

The beginning of the downfall of open range ranching occurred in the winter of 1886 -1887. During the summer of 1886 the area experienced a drought and that, combined with the range being overstocked, caused large numbers of cattle to starve to death that winter.

Some estimates put the loss as high as seventy-five percent of the herds.7 This lead to many ranches failing while many of those that remained reduced the size of their operation or switched to raising horses, since horses had fared much better during the drought. Ranches also changed their business model to include stockpiling food and building shelters for the livestock. This change in approach slowly brought an end to open range ranching as the area transitioned to fee simple ranching. Fee simple ranching 4 Penny and Larson, “Peaceful Valley Ranch”, 10.

5 Penny and Larson, “Peaceful Valley Ranch”, 10.

6 Penny and Larson, “Peaceful Valley Ranch”, 10-11.

7 Penny and Larson, “Peaceful Valley Ranch”, 11.

Part 1: Developmental History was the private ownership of ranches obtained through a homestead patent, a direct purchase, or a combination of both.

Another change that occurred to the ranching industry around the turn of the twentieth century was the introduction of dude ranching. The construction of railroads throughout the west and advances in the automobile allowed people to travel easily across the country and vacation in new areas. Ranch owners near scenic destinations took advantage of this development and began accepting paying guests to supplement their income.8 Dude ranches offered sight seeing, horseback rides, meals, lodging, and other services. Roosevelt’s writings about his western adventures inspired adventurous easterners and spurred the growth of the dude ranch industry.

Ranch History Peaceful Valley Ranch is considered significant for its association with open range ranching, fee simple ranching, and dude ranching as it served each of these functions during its period of significance.

The ranch is also considered significant for the role it played in the creation of Theodore Roosevelt National Park.9

Eldridge G. Paddock constructed the first building in the area of what is now Peaceful Valley Ranch when he built his cabin in 1883, approximately a quarter mile from the current ranch. Paddock was one of the early open range ranchers and a guide in the area but he did not stay in the cabin long. The Lebo family moved into the cabin on December 15,

1883.10 Also a guide, Normal Lebo served

as a guide and hunter for Theodore Roosevelt during his trip to the Bighorn Mountains in 1884. The Lebo family moved out of the cabin in early March

8 National Register of Historic Places, 19.

9 National Register of Historic Places,8.

10 National Register of Historic Places,12.

1884. This cabin no longer exists and the ruins may have been removed in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps and later road construction in the area.11

In 1885, Benjamin Lamb bought the property and built the Ranch House.

Lamb was listed on the census as a 22 year old white male from Ohio but oral histories disagree about his origins.12 Lamb was a respected businessman and a member of the Little Missouri Stockman’s Association and the Montana Stockman’s Association. Membership in stockman’s associations was typically limited to wealthy and successful ranchers and in many ways these organizations served as quasi-government operations that dictated policy on the open range.13 Lamb also served as an early probate judge and county treasurer for Billings County.

In 1885 Lamb had 200 head of cattle.14 Possibly in response to the harsh winter of 1886 -1887, Lamb bought horses and developed a thoroughbred track in 1889.

However, he did not stay in the area long and in 1890 sold the ranch and moved away.

Joe Caughtin and Tom McDonahue bought the ranch from Lamb. Little is known about these two men as they did not keep the property long.

Sometime between 1896 and 1898 they sold the ranch to George Burgess. In 1906, Burgess and his wife, Nettie, received homestead patents for the lands around the buildings. The land gains were useful in helping the ranch transition to fee simple ranching from open range ranching. Burgess hired the Rasmussen and Halliday families to work the ranch.

In 1915, Burgess sold the property to H.

11 National Register of Historic Places, 2.

12 Penny and Larson, “Peaceful Valley Ranch”, 18.

13 National Register of Historic Places, 14.

14 Penny and Larson, “Peaceful Valley Ranch”, 18.

Part 1: Developmental History

W. Olsen who was in partnership with his brother Carl. The land was transferred within the family and by 1924 Carl B.

Olsen was the owner of the ranch. It was the Olsens who first operated Peaceful Valley Ranch as a dude ranch in 1918 and in 1920 they provided facilities for ranch guests. Facilities included a log main lodge, guest cabins, bath house, barns and corrals within view of the guest cabins.15 One of the activities offered was a day trip on horseback to the petrified forest.

The Ranch House, Bunkhouse and Barn addressed in this report were all used as dude ranch facilities during this period.

It was March 9, 1922, when Carl Olsen filed a Farm Name Certificate with the Register of Deeds, Billings County that Peaceful Valley Ranch became the official name.

Figure 1-1. Farm Name Certificate: Peaceful Valley Ranch. March 9, 1922, Theodore Roosevelt National Park. http://www.

theodorerooseveltcenter.org/Research/Digital- Library/Record.aspx?libID=o273620. Theodore Roosevelt Digital Library. Dickinson State University.

15 Penny and Larson, “Peaceful Valley Ranch”, 14.

Figure 1-2. Peaceful Valley Ranch circa 1922.

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Park History The creation of the National Park Service in 1916 resulted in a number of initiatives to establish a national park in the Badlands of North Dakota. Major proponents of the idea were the Roosevelt Memorial Park Association, North Dakota Congressman William Lemke and Carl Olsen, the owner of Peaceful Valley Ranch. In 1921 the North Dakota Legislature passed a resolution urging the United States Congress to establish Theodore Roosevelt National Park.16 Although the initiative was not successful, the effort to establish a park continued.

During this period, so many organizations and individuals were advocating for the creation of various parks around the country that the National Park Service began discouraging proposals. One of the many ways to “sell” the idea of a park was to provide promotional tours through the area. Two such tours through the Badlands were sponsored by the Roosevelt Memorial Park Association, one in 1925 and one in 1928. These tours brought North Dakota officials, National Park Service representatives and congressmen through the proposed park area to show them the beauty of the area and what it could offer. Stephen Mather, then National Park Service Director, was on the 1928 visit.

16 Penny and Larson, “Peaceful Valley Ranch”, 15.

Part 1: Developmental History

Peaceful Valley Ranch played a key role in both the 1925 and 1928 tours as one of the focal points of the trip. Visitors stayed at the ranch and were exposed to ranch life as it would have been during Roosevelt’s time in the area.

“After supper and the smokes, “Bill” McCarthy put on a good show of bronco busting, riding, roping, etc., in the ranch corral [sic] that was greatly enjoyed by all…In due and lengthy course of time that night the weary bunch “hit the hay,” but were roused up at 2 a.m. by a bunch of cowboys coming into camp with all the gusto of the olden days… After breakfast wagons were hitched and ponies saddled for the trip to the petrified forest. There were 67 guests in the procession besides the drivers… Returning to the Peaceful Valley Ranch the members of the party were guests of Carl Olsen at a chicken dinner after which the real start was made down the river with wagons and saddle horses.”17

These trips did not result in the immediate establishment of a park but likely were influential in its ultimate creation.

Funding to create the park came from the New Deal program and in 1934 a cooperative agreement was signed by the Roosevelt Administration, the Civilian Conservation Corps and the State of North Dakota for the purpose of implementing the Roosevelt Regional Park project.18 The Civilian Conservation Corps established its first camp in the area in 1934. Other federal agencies also began to work in the area - efforts that laid the groundwork for the park by constructing roads and facilities. There is very minimal documentation to indicate

17 Penny and Larson, “Peaceful Valley Ranch”, 16.

18 Penny and Larson, “Peaceful Valley Ranch”, 16.

which of the government emergency relief programs were responsible for the construction of the various permanent structures in the park, but it is known that all of these buildings were designed and constructed under the supervision of the National Park Service.19

In 1936, Carl Olsen sold Peaceful Valley Ranch to the federal government and the site became the headquarters of the South Unit of the Roosevelt Recreation Demonstration Area from 1936 to 1946.

This and other Recreation Demonstration Areas throughout the country enabled the United States government, through the National Park Service, to aid states by developing recreation areas.20 While other government entities utilized the land in the early years, it remained under the custody of the National Park Service until 1946. During this early park period, the Emergency Relief Administration constructed a number of buildings at the ranch which continued to be used by the park until the 1960s. In 1942 the Roosevelt Recreation Demonstration Area was approved to be studied for inclusion within the National Park System. In 1946 and 1947 the area was administered by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service as a national wildlife refuge.21

In April of 1947 the area was renamed the Theodore Roosevelt National Memorial Park and administration of the area was transferred to the National Park Service.

Only the Elkhorn Ranch property and the South Unit of what had been the Roosevelt Recreation Demonstration Area

19 Torres, Louis. “Historic Structure Report, Historic Data Section, CCC Structures, Peaceful Valley Ranch, Maltese Cross Cabin, Elkhorn Ranch, Theodore Roosevelt National Park.” (Denver: Denver Service Center, National Park Service, 1980), 3.

20 “General Management Plan, Development Concept Plans, Land Protection Plan, Environmental Assessment, Theodore Roosevelt National Park, North Dakota.”

(Denver: Denver Service Center, National Park Service, 1987), 4.

21 Penny and Larson, “Peaceful Valley Ranch”, 17.

Part 1: Developmental History were included in the park.22 In 1948, the North Unit was added to the park and the South Unit was expanded to include the petrified forest.

According to the May 1991 “Historic Listing of National Park Service Officials” Allyn F. Hanks was the park superintendent from September 18, 1947 until January 15, 1953. Hanks hired Harvey B. Reynolds who worked as a ranger from 1947 to 1953 and during this time lived with his wife and three children in the Bunkhouse.

Figure 1-3. Park headquarters December 1952.

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Mission 66 provided funding within the National Park Service to expand staff and facilities within parks. In Roosevelt Recreation National Memorial Park, this work involved constructing a new park headquarters in the town of Medora in 1959. The headquarters was relocated from Peaceful Valley Ranch to the new building and park use of the ranch buildings was slowly phased out from 1959 to 1965. In 1967 Peaceful Valley Ranch was opened as a concession area for horse rentals and trail rides. Alvin Tescher was the first concessioner, operating it until 1982, when it was transferred to another concessioner.23

On November 10, 1978 the park’s name

22 Penny and Larson, “Peaceful Valley Ranch”, 17.

23 National Register of Historic Places, 23..

was changed to Theodore Roosevelt National Park. With this change, parts of the North and South units were established as wilderness areas.

In 1994, the Ranch House, Bunkhouse and Barn at Peaceful Valley Ranch were added to the National Register of Historic Places.

Chronology of Development and Use Ranch House History The Ranch House was originally constructed in 1885 by Benjamin Lamb.

It was a one and one-half story frame building with a central chimney and an exterior stair to the upstairs. Wood frame was an unusual approach to house construction in the area during this time because there was no local source for dimensioned lumber so it had to be ordered from elsewhere and shipped in on the railroad.24 The majority of area buildings from this time period are log construction. Lamb may have taken advantage of the Marquis bringing materials into the area for construction of the town of Medora.

Five major additions were constructed on the building during the period of significance. The first was a frame addition constructed to the north of the original building prior to 1893.25

24 National Register of Historic Places, 24.

25 National Register of Historic Places, 6.

Part 1: Developmental History

Figure 1-4. Ranch House circa 1903. 387_2050_ Park Collections.

In 1903, Burgess built a second addition, for a kitchen, on the north side of the previous addition. This addition was constructed of peeled cedar logs shipped from Washington State, intended for the construction of a railroad bridge.26

Figure 1-5. Ranch House between 1903 - 1906.

387_2050_Park Collections.

Prior to 1906, the porch was constructed on the south side of the house. In an interview Mrs. J.C. Rasmussen, a ranch employee who lived in the house for a time, described the layout of the porch in 1906 as “open and supported by posts.”27 Photos from this time period match this description (see Figure 1-6).

26 Penny and Larson, “Peaceful Valley Ranch”, 34.

27 Penny and Larson, “Peaceful Valley Ranch”, 35.

Figure 1-6. Ranch House in 1910. 387_2050_ Park Collections.

The Rasmussens worked for Burgess and during a period when the Burgess family lived in town, the Rasmussens lived in the Ranch House. The following is a description of the house circa 1906 provided by Mrs. J.C. Rasmussen in 1959 with corrections provided by Weldon Gratton.

The Rasmussens moved into the Burgess home, furnishing it themselves. Burgess had added the log kitchen and center room to the original frame house when he occupied it. The original house had consisted of two rooms and an attic. An outside stairway led to the attic.

The part of the house that was made of railroad ties [she means the log portion at the north end of the kitchen] was used by Mrs.

Rasmussen as her kitchen. In it she had her stove against the north wall. The stove was a wood range with a warming oven above

it. Her oak dining room table… stood to the northwest of the room and to the right of the stove…In the southwest corner of the room between the door leading to the living room and the door to the porch stood her ice box. On the east wall there was a wash stand, Part 1: Developmental History a commode. In the northeast corner there was another table-top cabinet...the walls of this room were calcimined, except for the logs. The logs were chinked and left scrubbed and bare because they were “pretty.” The floor was of maple…At this time the kitchen had a dirt roof.

The living room was in the center of the house [This is the part made of railroad ties or bridge timbers]… The room was entered from the porch or from the kitchen. In the northeast corner of the room Mrs.

Rasmussen placed her daveno [davenport, or couch]. In the center of the room was a square center table, on which she placed her chrome nickel plated Rochester kerosene lamp…Near the west wall she placed her Morris chair.

The furnishings were sparse because the couple were newly wed. On the floor was a grass rug.

The walls were papered with pink or red flowered paper, because Mrs.

Burgess had wall paper on all her walls. The other rooms, excluding the kitchen, were also papered.

The window leading to the porch had a box for flowers.

From the living room, a door led into the master bedroom…a ladder on the west wall about where the present stairway is tacked to the wall and led to a trap door into the attic. In this bedroom, Mrs.

Rasmussen had a brass bed, a dresser with a triple mirror, and a scatter, braided or crocheted, rugs. The windows and door were the same as those in the house today. A door led from the bedroom into the second bedroom which was roughly partitioned from the other room. This second room was smaller. Both of these rooms are now part of the living room.

In the attic there were two bedrooms, which were not used by the Rasmussens except as storage areas. Mrs. Rasmussen always used the outside stairway for access to the attic rather than the ladder in the bedroom.

The porch was open and supported by posts. It did not extend out even with the bedroom wing but was slightly recessed. There was a pump on the south end of the porch, covering an 80 foot well.28

Figure 1-7. Plan of the first floor of the Ranch House drawn in conjunction with the interview of Mrs. J.C. Rasmussen. Plan taken from page 36 of “Peaceful Valley Ranch: An Extended Narrative History”, drawn in 1959.

Carl Olsen reroofed the log addition around 1914 and added the dormer window on the front of the house in

1922.29 Dirt remaining in the now

enclosed attic area indicates that this roof may originally have been dirt, but no direct documentation exists to confirm this and there is not enough 28 National Register of Historic Places, 6.

29 Penny and Larson, “Peaceful Valley Ranch”, 35.

Part 1: Developmental History resolution on photos from the time period to determine the roofing material.

Additional modifications occurred to the house, but the dates of the work were not documented. These include:

the modification of the roof on the log addition from a low slope roof to a gable roof, clapboard siding on the log addition, addition of the window immediately north of the attic entryway, removal of the outside entrance to the upper story and additional window on the east facade, south of the gable end chimney.

The enclosure of the east porch was constructed between 1936 and 1939, after the National Park Service had taken possession of the ranch according to Marge Gratton.30

Figure 1-8. 1939 Ranch House first floor plan.

387_2050_id279937.

In 1942, when the Grattons were living in the house, the roof lines of the northern additions were altered to form a continuous line.31

The next major alteration to the house was in 1947 when remodeling was required to repair damage from a flood.

The partial basement was enlarged to a full basement and the floors in the living room and utility room were replaced. The closet in the living room was converted to a stairway to the attic and the bathroom 30 Penny and Larson, “Peaceful Valley Ranch”, 35.

31 Penny and Larson, “Peaceful Valley Ranch”, 37 was remodeled. The main chimney was replaced by a new brick chimney on the east side of the house.32

In 1967 the ceiling in the upstairs bedroom fell and was replaced with gypsum board. Circa 1976 the 4” softwood flooring was replaced or covered by resilient floor covering.

Maintenance activities in the 1980s and early 1990s included “shingling, painting, replacement of kitchen cabinets, remodeling the bathroom (new fixtures, cabinetwork), and the replacement of coal and oil burning stoves with electric devices.”33

In 2006 a foundation replacement project replaced the structure under Bedroom 1, underpinned the log walls and chimney, and poured new concrete foundations at the northwest section of the building.34

A number of changes have occurred to the Ranch House that are not documented but can be determined from a review of historic documents and current conditions. The primary sources of information in this chart are Mrs. Rasmussen’s interview35, the 1939 drawings36 and historic photographs. The following list provides a breakdown of these changes by space, using the room names from Appendix A: 2013 Drawings.

Living Room

• Mrs. Rasmussen’s interview indicates this room was divided into two bedrooms circa 1906. The 1939 drawings show the room in the current one room configuration.

32 Louis, “Historic Structure Report”, 36..

33 Penny and Larson, “Peaceful Valley Ranch”, 37.

34 Fitzpatrick Structural Engineering, P.C. “Foundation Replacement of Peaceful Valley Ranch House HS-1” 8/24/2006.

35 Penny and Larson, “Peaceful Valley Ranch”, 34-36.

36…